1:45 printing with the lid topside down is bad because the top of the enclosure has the bed texture and doesn't match. 4:43 printing with the lid topside down is good because the top of the enclosure has the bed texture which can be used as a feature.
funny, but im pretty sure 1:45 he was talking about the body of the enclosure not the lid, and he says that the lid being a different texture makes sense to him. i dont totally agree that one makes sense and the other doesnt, but i at least see his point and its consistent
I love how this channel talks a lot about design tips and tricks for 3D printing, especially for consumer-facing products, not just some hobbyist prints that defects are tolerated. I don’t see a lot of videos caring about things that are important or essential to products that people spend money to buy.
Another tip I've seen for "hiding" the seam in a part is to do the opposite and design a small seam that cuts in to the part all the way around, making it a feature rather than a mistake.
Nice tips! Personally, I like using a textured pei bef with very fine fuzzy skin (both settings at 0.1mm in prusa slicer). The textures aren't an exact march, but I find them to ve very close and it looks very eye pleasing.
Great channel, keep it coming. I don't 3D print often, but I always love educational videos like these. Its kind of like going to a tool shop and just browsing not intending to buy, you just familiarize yourself with available tools so you know which one to use when you do need one.
This is a great solution to many of the boxes that I print. Thought, I'm generally printing bodies that I've split on a continuous plane, it makes it a pain to support and the wasted material and time are unfortunate. Next box I print, I'm going to play around with the split lines and print it on angles that minimize supports - the angled texture will look great.
Would like to see more practical examples if possible. On the lid I add text, what advice can you offer in cases like this? also about attaching the lid to the box, bolting is a completely unnecessary option in most cases. P.S. I would like to thank you for the fact that thanks to your videos I began to look at the usual design of things in a new way.
I like the idea of a more uniform external finish, but with such a small contact face, how do you get enough bed adhesion? Particularly when printing with ABS/ASA (90+% of my printing) With a large part/tiny footprint even if the glue holds it tears up the build surface...
4:46 I don't understand this support - if the part was going to fall, wouldn't it fall before it gets to the stage where it's supported by the green support? Doesn't the green support need to come into play earlier, supporting the diagonal edge a few times along the way with sprues?
Your videos are great and informative. I need help. Consider a box measuring 100x140x70mm. This is a ceramic master mold. I take a perfect silicone mold from it, pour plaster into it and it becomes a ceramic mold. But no matter what I did, I couldn't prevent the output from shrinking. I pressed it full but it didn't work. It was 2mm thick and I filled it with supports but it didn't work. I added fillet to the corners and it still didn't work. 3d hollow, 2d hollow, I tried them all. Since it is a curved surface, I cannot intervene much after printing. I need to get outputs that will require very little intervention. I don't know if I should split it and screw it like in this video? can you help me?
i know that this has been probably been mentioned in previous video but what is your bed adhesion method? given that you do this at scale it must've been reliable, even though you're actively trying to reduce surface area on bed
If you haven't already, a nozzle change may be a good first step as it may be clogged or partially clogged. If that's not the issue, check your retractions and your extruder. Is the extruder motor clicking? If you're retracting too much, the filament may stick. Other issues could be the extruder tension is too little/too much. I had an issue where I had too much tension on the extruder arm and it was deforming the filament and made it very difficult to feed into the hot end, let alone print with it.
@@Mijo0x9 get a new roll of filament, increase print temps, consider replacing the bowden tube, check the bowden tube is fully pressed down into the heat break and locked in place
@@RyanRapini Thanks for the help but i fixed it like 4 months ago. I since upgraded my Ender 3 to have a toolswapper (DIY) so it can CNC and lazercut plywood. Haven't used it yet but who knows.
Maybe it works better for mass production but i dont think the parts would mate together as neatly that way. It doesnt take into account having shadow lines or any similar sort of internal mating surfaces like a smaller internal protrusion from the top piece to help it mate the parts together.
"Somewhat" related design question about parts that are going to be fitted and then glued together: Are channels for the excess glue to flow into a thing? Or designing in a slight angle into one of the surfaces so that any excess glue does not get on a internal mechanism, but instead is forced in a different direction?
I much prefer FDM printing, but when I want a strong part that looks like injection molded ABS, I use an MSLA 3D printer. To FDM print a rectangular enclosure similar to what is shown in the video, I would separate the enclosure into a simple top and bottom (no angles) and I'd print the top upside down. I'd feature the different textures. The sides would all have very uniform (all printed vertically instead of at varying angles) FDM layer texture (not too bad with 0.1 mm layer height) and the top and bottom would have the texture from the bed, which looks nice as long as the bed is level and the Z offset ensures a uniformly good first layer with very minimal elephant's foot. The newer 3D printers with automatic bed leveling and Z offset make this much easier. Printing a rectangular enclosure vertically instead of at an angle has huge advantages for printing internal screw bosses for mounting PCBs or screwing the top and bottom together, and round holes on the top or bottom are much easier to print nicely when those surfaces are flat on the bed rather than in the air at an angle.
His videos are usually very helpful and awesome, but this one kind of seems useless. This information is almost all useless once you try to use any method to have the lid be a lid and connect in some way to the box. Snaps, hinges, etc...
1:45 printing with the lid topside down is bad because the top of the enclosure has the bed texture and doesn't match.
4:43 printing with the lid topside down is good because the top of the enclosure has the bed texture which can be used as a feature.
funny, but im pretty sure 1:45 he was talking about the body of the enclosure not the lid, and he says that the lid being a different texture makes sense to him. i dont totally agree that one makes sense and the other doesnt, but i at least see his point and its consistent
That's what I thought, too. I get the point of cutting it diagonally so the two "pyramids" are uniform, but his last point is contradicting.
I love how this channel talks a lot about design tips and tricks for 3D printing, especially for consumer-facing products, not just some hobbyist prints that defects are tolerated. I don’t see a lot of videos caring about things that are important or essential to products that people spend money to buy.
Good idea, it now include a way to attach the lid to the box securely without or minimal use of fixings .
It does help with that
Another tip I've seen for "hiding" the seam in a part is to do the opposite and design a small seam that cuts in to the part all the way around, making it a feature rather than a mistake.
aka a shadow line
A video on making these boxes hinged to be used for things other than electrical would be awesome!! As always GREAT VIDEO!!
Noted. Thanks for watching!
I love this videos, not to long and packed with so much info and no BS. Absolute win!
Video idea: Go over ways to tackle auto ejection, how y'all go about it, should we all just print upsidedown?
Nice tips! Personally, I like using a textured pei bef with very fine fuzzy skin (both settings at 0.1mm in prusa slicer). The textures aren't an exact march, but I find them to ve very close and it looks very eye pleasing.
A bed finish top surface is also great for applying a sticker
this channel is so good.
Thank you
Man spitting gold in every video for free.. god damn
Thanks for watching
Great channel, keep it coming. I don't 3D print often, but I always love educational videos like these. Its kind of like going to a tool shop and just browsing not intending to buy, you just familiarize yourself with available tools so you know which one to use when you do need one.
This is a great solution to many of the boxes that I print. Thought, I'm generally printing bodies that I've split on a continuous plane, it makes it a pain to support and the wasted material and time are unfortunate. Next box I print, I'm going to play around with the split lines and print it on angles that minimize supports - the angled texture will look great.
Subbed and turned on the bell. Your business is this and you're giving away free tips, it's appreciated.
Would like to see more practical examples if possible. On the lid I add text, what advice can you offer in cases like this? also about attaching the lid to the box, bolting is a completely unnecessary option in most cases.
P.S. I would like to thank you for the fact that thanks to your videos I began to look at the usual design of things in a new way.
I add text using tinkercad. I nodel the text as a 1.5mm hole but reversed. So when it prints the kit the text is sunk in 1.5mm and works great
your videos are super informative and useful. Thanks again for the great instruction
Another very informative design topic.
I like your content very much! I am just not sure if the finish of the rounded part you showed is Fuzzy Skin, on purpose, or just a very bad print 😆
I like the idea of a more uniform external finish, but with such a small contact face, how do you get enough bed adhesion? Particularly when printing with ABS/ASA (90+% of my printing) With a large part/tiny footprint even if the glue holds it tears up the build surface...
4:46 I don't understand this support - if the part was going to fall, wouldn't it fall before it gets to the stage where it's supported by the green support? Doesn't the green support need to come into play earlier, supporting the diagonal edge a few times along the way with sprues?
Your videos are great and informative. I need help. Consider a box measuring 100x140x70mm. This is a ceramic master mold. I take a perfect silicone mold from it, pour plaster into it and it becomes a ceramic mold. But no matter what I did, I couldn't prevent the output from shrinking. I pressed it full but it didn't work. It was 2mm thick and I filled it with supports but it didn't work. I added fillet to the corners and it still didn't work. 3d hollow, 2d hollow, I tried them all. Since it is a curved surface, I cannot intervene much after printing. I need to get outputs that will require very little intervention. I don't know if I should split it and screw it like in this video? can you help me?
I like your videos so much!
I suppose that you use a special surface finish on these boxes. Is this established with a setting in the slicer?
The format of these "secrets" videos is "here's some sorta mediocre ways to accomplish the same thing then one I actually like at the end."
A nice textured build plate (like carbon fiber) can help with a nice finish.
i know that this has been probably been mentioned in previous video but what is your bed adhesion method?
given that you do this at scale it must've been reliable, even though you're actively trying to reduce surface area on bed
What happen with your microphone?
I recently got an Ender3 Sadly the filament keeps jamming and its fully stock. Do you know anything i could try?
If you haven't already, a nozzle change may be a good first step as it may be clogged or partially clogged. If that's not the issue, check your retractions and your extruder. Is the extruder motor clicking? If you're retracting too much, the filament may stick. Other issues could be the extruder tension is too little/too much. I had an issue where I had too much tension on the extruder arm and it was deforming the filament and made it very difficult to feed into the hot end, let alone print with it.
Did that
@@Mijo0x9 get a new roll of filament, increase print temps, consider replacing the bowden tube, check the bowden tube is fully pressed down into the heat break and locked in place
also slow down your print speeds, you might be printing too fast and your nozzle can't melt plastic fast enough
@@RyanRapini Thanks for the help but i fixed it like 4 months ago. I since upgraded my Ender 3 to have a toolswapper (DIY) so it can CNC and lazercut plywood. Haven't used it yet but who knows.
I dunno, I feel like it looks fine printed to the surface; I do think the angle adds some visual interest though
Maybe it works better for mass production but i dont think the parts would mate together as neatly that way. It doesnt take into account having shadow lines or any similar sort of internal mating surfaces like a smaller internal protrusion from the top piece to help it mate the parts together.
what material für high voltage enclosures?
Maybe someday you could make a lid for a water bottle. Or even a water bottle!
"Somewhat" related design question about parts that are going to be fitted and then glued together: Are channels for the excess glue to flow into a thing? Or designing in a slight angle into one of the surfaces so that any excess glue does not get on a internal mechanism, but instead is forced in a different direction?
Both work
Mass produced 3d printed parts? 2 hour print vs 10 sec injection molded cycle? Tooling is not that expensive anymore
I much prefer FDM printing, but when I want a strong part that looks like injection molded ABS, I use an MSLA 3D printer.
To FDM print a rectangular enclosure similar to what is shown in the video, I would separate the enclosure into a simple top and bottom (no angles) and I'd print the top upside down. I'd feature the different textures. The sides would all have very uniform (all printed vertically instead of at varying angles) FDM layer texture (not too bad with 0.1 mm layer height) and the top and bottom would have the texture from the bed, which looks nice as long as the bed is level and the Z offset ensures a uniformly good first layer with very minimal elephant's foot. The newer 3D printers with automatic bed leveling and Z offset make this much easier.
Printing a rectangular enclosure vertically instead of at an angle has huge advantages for printing internal screw bosses for mounting PCBs or screwing the top and bottom together, and round holes on the top or bottom are much easier to print nicely when those surfaces are flat on the bed rather than in the air at an angle.
Hey
Hello
His videos are usually very helpful and awesome, but this one kind of seems useless. This information is almost all useless once you try to use any method to have the lid be a lid and connect in some way to the box. Snaps, hinges, etc...
Shake that dog leg!