The zip ties are to put around the red clips after they’re in place so that they don’t pop open from vibration inside your cars trim while you’re driving. Those zip ties can melt from the heat that comes off the equalizer. Avoid using plastic to fasten these things if possible
Thanks a bunch. This is the first time I'm going to install LED turn lights and they we're supposed to be non hyper flash but still flashed like crazy. So, I'm getting this same product from my local AutoZone store for $14.99 and you gave me piece of mind on how these work. I appreciate mentioning the heat the load equalizer may throw off. A++ Thank you very much!
I believe #6 self tap screws will fit, zip ties could melt and allow the relay to move around and be a potential fire hazard. It would be less likely here but on say a parking light/signal which remains lit the temp would be consistantly higher. Those can depending on the brand and mounting location get up to several hundred degrees they should be firmly mounted to metal.
Great point! I just bought these today for my Tundra because I hate listening to the darn things blink so fast. I will definitely be screwing them down.
@@TootNuggetEdits yes I know. I found it more useful to use the zip ties for keeping the connectors closed not for mounting, mine kept opening back up so I’m assuming that’s what they’re for since you can’t mount with zip ties anyway
@100mgd Have u had any issues with ur load equalizer resistor? And what about ur wires, now that it’s be cut the skin of the black wire and expose the bare wire, using T-tabs for using load equalizer resistor. Any issues on them? Do u personally recommend or u prefer a led bulb with a built-in resistor? Or both for that matter?
I was wondering what that item was, thanks to you now I know.👍 I bought some LED lights for my 1990 Nissan D21 and the lights never came on. What I'm thinking is that the "load resistor" is defective, but then I don't know because the load resistor is getting hot but the LED lights do not come on. I ended up returning them to the seller.
I'm assuming that the resistor gets pretty hot because you're using a load resistor with not enough resistance. I know that Sylvania sells a variation of these; depending on the wattage of the factory bulbs, you may have to buy load resistors with higher resistance.
I was wondering the same thing when I bought it. Not sure about your car, but for "standard" installation it appears that you only need 1 load equalizer for each turn signal circuit. Meaning, 1 for the left (which includes front + back) and 1 for the Right
Im doing this for a 2009 camry and i see the turn signal wires in mine are colored differently...one is yellow and the other is white and black im guessing the white and black one is my ground right?
@AOMechMarine AOMechMarine Using a test light will help you find out which wire does what. shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/toolworks-circuit-tester-tw1486/11370939-p?c3ch=PLA&c3nid=11370939-P&adtype=pla&gclid=CjwKCAjwqqrmBRAAEiwAdpDXtDHBBBwq74cz2QxIc8dhlO29y9UxUnw-cEpzoQbSgY9kuRmlB3idPhoC19YQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Does it matter if you install it in the front or rear?? I just bought some switchback leds turn signals lights for the front of my car but they don’t flash the amber when putting my turning signal they just stay white I have stock bulbs In the rear
Only if you have LEDs for brake lights. I personally got breaklignts that have the resister built into them already. I just needed it for my headlights which I put led bulbs in.
Hey sorry for the late reply, Duct tape will work but its not that effective and does't last that long. On the other hand make her some tea with 200Mg of benadryl in it, its very effective.
I installed LEDs in my 2015 RAM 1500 and don’t have any hyper flashing. I do have messages that say my rear blinkers are out, but that was before I installed the LEDs. My mirror turn signals are hyper flashing (at least they’re flashing faster than the new LED blinkers I installed). So I think I have to replace those, which aren’t cheap. Anywho, good video should I have hyper flashing in the future.
I have a 2015 Ram 1500 as well. When I put LED's in it was not hyperflashing on the outside, but like yours it was hyperflashing on the instrument cluster and saying all 4 of my turn signals were out. But I solved it using these load equalizers and now no hyperflashing on the cluster or it saying that my turn signals are out
@@BudgetStreamers You might be able to replace the flasher unit (kind of like a relay) to an LED version. Cheaper and easier than installing these but not available for all applications.
@@BudgetStreamers I was wondering the same thing when I bought it. Not sure about your car, but for "standard" installation it appears that you only need 1 load equalizer for each turn signal circuit. Meaning, 1 for the left (which includes front + back) and 1 for the Right
I was wondering the same thing when I bought it. Not sure about your car, but for "standard" installation it appears that you only need 1 load equalizer for each turn signal circuit. Meaning, 1 for the left (which includes front + back) and 1 for the Right
This is absolutely the wrong approach. It's a "lazy" workaround that works but it's introducing a safety issue, ie the two large resistors which need to be properly attached by drilling the chassis of your car and placed somewhere with enough ventilation so they can dissipate the extra heat. Also, you are installing LEDs to benefit from the much lower current needed to drive the LEDs flashers, why negate that by using these resistors which all they do is waste all this current . With these load equalizers you are not equalizing anything you are simply using the same electrical current your incandescent bulbs would use PLUS whatever the LEDs require. The correct solution to this problem is to find what kind of (mechanical) flashing relay your vehicle is using and replace it with an electronic one that is meant to work with LEDs. Actually these newer electronic flasher relays will work with both traditional AND LED lights. It's a no brainer.
So what do mean plz ?? U mean to buy led bulbs with internal resistor ?? Unfortunately i bought 4 led bulbs w5w , 2 w16w and 2 py21w from osram but it gave me errors What can i do ??
But it’s still a tried and true to do this. They are still solid to those that comes with a load equalizer resistor from sylvania, xenon depot, and GTR Lighting. I don’t how’s that’s lazy when it’s requires a bit more work and sometimes a pain depending on the vehicle.
And for the record dude. A resistor is a resistor. Thats the idea. A load equalizer resistor helps to keep resistance from hyperflashing. So he is resisting that hyperflash. Nothing more, nothing less.
Those connectors are garbage !! Now you've cut into the wires of your factory harness. Those are famous for corroding and quitting.. You can buy Canbus bulbs that have it built in..
But nowadays. The with a load equalizer resistor are still popular. Not as much as the built-in resistor, like auxito, lasfit, and GTR Lighting. Xenon depot have the best load equalizer resistor for C-series ceramic bulbs. So honestly it’s not garbage if it’s still tried and true installation. I never liked or never would mess with the wires. And I would have a led turn signal bulbs with a built-in resistors. But if I had like those Sylvania or xenon depot or even GTR Lighting with load equalizer resistor, I would have someone help me that knows and are pros for electronics and splicing the wires like it’s nothing.
Could someone recommend weather this would be better or an actual bulb with a resistor built in? I'm sure they both work but the heat is what I'm worried about. I'm assuming the bulb with resistor built in gets super hot too and part of that bulb is plastic so I would worry about it melting. Last thing I want is my car to catch fire from these things. What auto mfgs need to do is stop making the car hyper flash period. Or bring back old school relays. I put all LEDs on my 97 civic and all I had to buy was a cheap led relay to replace the old one and everything works perfectly
The daytime led DRL I fitted said they had a resistor built in, it read 122c on the temp gun, very hot, but the normal bulb in there read 321c so I don't think you need to worry about melting the light housing, the halogen bulbs get mega hot compared to a hot led
Look up lasfit, auxito, GTR-Lighting, auxbeam, few of them offer led bulbs with built in resistors. And it’s very nice: I highly recommend Lasfit and Auxito the most.
![Lp. Последняя Реальность #107 РОДНОЙ ДОМ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IK3QKzKUlHM/mqdefault.jpg)
The zip ties are to put around the red clips after they’re in place so that they don’t pop open from vibration inside your cars trim while you’re driving. Those zip ties can melt from the heat that comes off the equalizer. Avoid using plastic to fasten these things if possible
Thanks a bunch. This is the first time I'm going to install LED turn lights and they we're supposed to be non hyper flash but still flashed like crazy. So, I'm getting this same product from my local AutoZone store for $14.99 and you gave me piece of mind on how these work. I appreciate mentioning the heat the load equalizer may throw off. A++ Thank you very much!
How’s it going two years later did anything melt? 😂
@@caseytyler8326have you had some melt before lol? I’m gonna put some but I’ll be checking on it all the time then if u say they melt
@@caseytyler8326I think they shouldn’t melt anything as long as you put the resistors on to a metal surface where it’s not touching any plastic
I like how you did it with the light on, so we could see it was instantly fixed. Very good. Thank you!
Great video! Putting these on seem way easier than I thought they'd be!
Wow great video out of the hundreds of videos out their , this was very simple !
Awesome video. Just what I needed. Thanks very much. 👍🏼🍻
I saw that the packaging recommends mounting the Load Resistor to something metal. Harder to do on modern vehicles.
I remember putting a huge white led in my front turn signal on my Camry and I honestly think the blinker was brighter than the headlights hahaha
ClaireTheOutbackXT You never shared me the link. Lol
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
I believe #6 self tap screws will fit, zip ties could melt and allow the relay to move around and be a potential fire hazard. It would be less likely here but on say a parking light/signal which remains lit the temp would be consistantly higher. Those can depending on the brand and mounting location get up to several hundred degrees they should be firmly mounted to metal.
Great point! I just bought these today for my Tundra because I hate listening to the darn things blink so fast. I will definitely be screwing them down.
Good port, its a wonder they even work with all that throwing them around and connecting it while its on
It gets really hot and it melts through plastic, yet they give you zip ties to mount it.
The instructions say mount on a metal surface
@@Bluefoxxred The ZIP TIES are PLASTIC...
@@TootNuggetEdits yes I know. I found it more useful to use the zip ties for keeping the connectors closed not for mounting, mine kept opening back up so I’m assuming that’s what they’re for since you can’t mount with zip ties anyway
The zip ties are to be used to keep wires together...not to mount
@@missfixitCanada thank you ! some people don’t have common sense …. hence why it has 2 holes for screws for mounting
Do you recall if the load equilizer has a + and - or does it not matter which wire gets attached to the existing car wires?
Installed mine and the resistor and with the headlights on the turn signals won’t work at all. Headlights off all good on, nothing.
@100mgd
Have u had any issues with ur load equalizer resistor?
And what about ur wires, now that it’s be cut the skin of the black wire and expose the bare wire, using T-tabs for using load equalizer resistor.
Any issues on them?
Do u personally recommend or u prefer a led bulb with a built-in resistor?
Or both for that matter?
😊 thank you so much
I was wondering what that item was, thanks to you now I know.👍 I bought some LED lights for my 1990 Nissan D21 and the lights never came on. What I'm thinking is that the "load resistor" is defective, but then I don't know because the load resistor is getting hot but the LED lights do not come on. I ended up returning them to the seller.
Isn't the black wire on the wire harness the ground?
Thks for the explanation..jc
Can you run led signals (with load resistors) in the rear and incandescent in the front simultaneously?
of course
@@AndrewSilvaVlogs thanks got it mostly figured out.
I'm assuming that the resistor gets pretty hot because you're using a load resistor with not enough resistance. I know that Sylvania sells a variation of these; depending on the wattage of the factory bulbs, you may have to buy load resistors with higher resistance.
is it ok to keep them hyper flashing??
I'm assuming you'll need one of these for each turn signal? Total of 4, one for each corner? Or does two cover the whole car?
I was wondering the same thing when I bought it. Not sure about your car, but for "standard" installation it appears that you only need 1 load equalizer for each turn signal circuit. Meaning, 1 for the left (which includes front + back) and 1 for the Right
Circuit dependent. If no schematic then just give it a shot.
Im doing this for a 2009 camry and i see the turn signal wires in mine are colored differently...one is yellow and the other is white and black im guessing the white and black one is my ground right?
@AOMechMarine AOMechMarine Using a test light will help you find out which wire does what.
shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/toolworks-circuit-tester-tw1486/11370939-p?c3ch=PLA&c3nid=11370939-P&adtype=pla&gclid=CjwKCAjwqqrmBRAAEiwAdpDXtDHBBBwq74cz2QxIc8dhlO29y9UxUnw-cEpzoQbSgY9kuRmlB3idPhoC19YQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Thank u so much
Does it matter if you install it in the front or rear?? I just bought some switchback leds turn signals lights for the front of my car but they don’t flash the amber when putting my turning signal they just stay white I have stock bulbs In the rear
Smart problem. Have you solved your problems?
I used mechanic wire to mount, no place to drill holes that would get in the way
Do you need to connect load resistors to brake light and reverse lights too?
Only if you have LEDs for brake lights. I personally got breaklignts that have the resister built into them already. I just needed it for my headlights which I put led bulbs in.
Is there anything available that I could give my wife? Her mouth is Hyper-Yakking.
Lol
came here for an led hyper flash fix. got a double dose of funny by reading this comment.....well played!!
Hey sorry for the late reply, Duct tape will work but its not that effective and does't last that long. On the other hand make her some tea with 200Mg of benadryl in it, its very effective.
😆😆
@@TootNuggetEdits 200mg of THC and you’ll have hours of silence
Question. Do you need 4 resistors for the 2 fronts and 2 backs?
One for each led
Depending on ur vehicle. But like a Camry for example. U just need two.
Cool thx
How about with one side of the resistor going to vehicle ground instead of the ground wire (as many vehicles ground through the lamp metal body)
www.ebay.com/itm/335472623926?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=x20rrclvrfk&sssrc=2524149&ssuid=x20rrclvrfk&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
I installed LEDs in my 2015 RAM 1500 and don’t have any hyper flashing. I do have messages that say my rear blinkers are out, but that was before I installed the LEDs. My mirror turn signals are hyper flashing (at least they’re flashing faster than the new LED blinkers I installed). So I think I have to replace those, which aren’t cheap. Anywho, good video should I have hyper flashing in the future.
I have a 2015 Ram 1500 as well. When I put LED's in it was not hyperflashing on the outside, but like yours it was hyperflashing on the instrument cluster and saying all 4 of my turn signals were out. But I solved it using these load equalizers and now no hyperflashing on the cluster or it saying that my turn signals are out
@@BudgetStreamers You might be able to replace the flasher unit (kind of like a relay) to an LED version. Cheaper and easier than installing these but not available for all applications.
@@BudgetStreamers did you have to put load equalizers on each turn signal? 4 total?
@@milesmundy6455 yessir I did. I have since traded that truck in for a 2020 Charger. But yeah I did have to put load equalizers on all 4 turn signals
@@BudgetStreamers I was wondering the same thing when I bought it. Not sure about your car, but for "standard" installation it appears that you only need 1 load equalizer for each turn signal circuit. Meaning, 1 for the left (which includes front + back) and 1 for the Right
Is it useful for high beam flickering
That I do not know but it's worth a try.
Advanced auto parts says two are in one box and good for all four signals. It seems I need 4 of these right?
I was wondering the same thing when I bought it. Not sure about your car, but for "standard" installation it appears that you only need 1 load equalizer for each turn signal circuit. Meaning, 1 for the left (which includes front + back) and 1 for the Right
Two load equalizer resistors are enough for all four.
How many resiator you install to your car?
Two total, one on each side since there was an LED on each side
Question. Do you need 4 resistors for the fronts and the backs?
@@bosanovaboy yes u do. Otherwise without one. It will hyperflash
2:53 was that a fart?
I tried this and they still hyper flash smh
Sounds like u need another pair then. Not all vehicles work with just one pair
You don't mount it on plastic 🤦🏻
Those are metal. Not plastic
You don’t have white leds in a tinted lense. You will have washed out colors
I would use a brighter sylvania zevo in amber.
This is absolutely the wrong approach. It's a "lazy" workaround that works but it's introducing a safety issue, ie the two large resistors which need to be properly attached by drilling the chassis of your car and placed somewhere with enough ventilation so they can dissipate the extra heat. Also, you are installing LEDs to benefit from the much lower current needed to drive the LEDs flashers, why negate that by using these resistors which all they do is waste all this current . With these load equalizers you are not equalizing anything you are simply using the same electrical current your incandescent bulbs would use PLUS whatever the LEDs require. The correct solution to this problem is to find what kind of (mechanical) flashing relay your vehicle is using and replace it with an electronic one that is meant to work with LEDs. Actually these newer electronic flasher relays will work with both traditional AND LED lights. It's a no brainer.
No s**t?! Hmm... I had a feeling this was sort of the "lazy workaround" as you put it. Guess I'll have to consult my electrical whiz friend. Thanks!
So what do mean plz ??
U mean to buy led bulbs with internal resistor ??
Unfortunately i bought 4 led bulbs w5w , 2 w16w and 2 py21w from osram but it gave me errors
What can i do ??
But it’s still a tried and true to do this. They are still solid to those that comes with a load equalizer resistor from sylvania, xenon depot, and GTR Lighting.
I don’t how’s that’s lazy when it’s requires a bit more work and sometimes a pain depending on the vehicle.
Gotdamn... you typed alot. I bet you talk a lot as well. Geeesssshhhh
And for the record dude.
A resistor is a resistor.
Thats the idea. A load equalizer resistor helps to keep resistance from hyperflashing.
So he is resisting that hyperflash.
Nothing more, nothing less.
Those connectors are garbage !! Now you've cut into the wires of your factory harness. Those are famous for corroding and quitting.. You can buy Canbus bulbs that have it built in..
But nowadays. The with a load equalizer resistor are still popular. Not as much as the built-in resistor, like auxito, lasfit, and GTR Lighting.
Xenon depot have the best load equalizer resistor for C-series ceramic bulbs.
So honestly it’s not garbage if it’s still tried and true installation.
I never liked or never would mess with the wires. And I would have a led turn signal bulbs with a built-in resistors.
But if I had like those Sylvania or xenon depot or even GTR Lighting with load equalizer resistor, I would have someone help me that knows and are pros for electronics and splicing the wires like it’s nothing.
Could someone recommend weather this would be better or an actual bulb with a resistor built in? I'm sure they both work but the heat is what I'm worried about. I'm assuming the bulb with resistor built in gets super hot too and part of that bulb is plastic so I would worry about it melting. Last thing I want is my car to catch fire from these things. What auto mfgs need to do is stop making the car hyper flash period. Or bring back old school relays. I put all LEDs on my 97 civic and all I had to buy was a cheap led relay to replace the old one and everything works perfectly
I was wondering. Can I buy one of those relays for my 2005 Toyota corolla instead of this that gets super hot?
The daytime led DRL I fitted said they had a resistor built in, it read 122c on the temp gun, very hot, but the normal bulb in there read 321c so I don't think you need to worry about melting the light housing, the halogen bulbs get mega hot compared to a hot led
Look up lasfit, auxito, GTR-Lighting, auxbeam, few of them offer led bulbs with built in resistors. And it’s very nice:
I highly recommend Lasfit and Auxito the most.