wyattoneable...that's funny, Wyatt, except the titanic is so far down, rust can't get to it. Plus, the big three didn't make the titanic, so it will last for decades, sitting on the bottom of a salt water bath!
Hey Paul greetings a tip here , i spent couple of years on the US NAVY as a technician and while i was there they thought us that never solder a connection that was on a prone to vibration place because it can crack and have issues later ,just use butt connectors or heat shrink tubing or heat shrink electrical tape ,only solder connections that were indside with no vibtation,just a tip here man,as i always said nice job your doing Paul i have learned a lof from your channel ,i forgott if you can help me out to like and share my page ,i just opened a channel a couple of weeks back ,ill be doing some videos on english too, God Bless NEVER GIVE UP!! TAKE CARE !! From Puerto Rico ,Ken!!
I guess you realize you're not selling everyone on those connectors. They're one of those great ideas that end up having limited applications. Thanks for continuing to post videos on youtube, it's appreciated. Have a great 2019.
Thumbs up for not deleting the failed solder with the lighter, thank you! I'm not yet sold on the single stage solder/heat shrink, too easy to leave an inadequate joint after saving less than a minute of time. Great to see another scanner, I wonder how that's gonna shake out.
You brought up a good point about those 'built in solder' butt splice connectors.. If the wires are oxidized, or has some crusties, it's going to be a bad joint. Might be better off with a good crimp connector. cleaning the wire better, and additional flux would certainly help.
I used to use the Autel pro was horrible took way to long to connect to a vehicle and data pids were minimal. sold that now use the snap on zeus. Great video again too man
. That scanner is just like the autel . The autel is a beast !!!! The autel does program keys 🔑 remotes and pcm/ecm and bcm programming I love it my snap on has massive layers of dust on it
I’m still not get grip with those solder shrink wrap, every single one that I have try to use ended up using crimp connector with shrink wrap with glue adhesive inside But Paul again great video 👍 all done ✅ mate
The thing about the Auro/Autel tools is understanding that if the manufacturer of the vehicle coded a functional test it will work but if not it wont. The options for some tests and functions may not always work although you might see an item listed. I use an Autel everyday but when I need total diagnostics for driveability and scope I grab the Verus. You also need to understand the manufactures that have Legacy and enhanced versions and when the years they converted. A prime example is using the Autel on an older Chrysler during the DRB3 era. The autel will work but it will show a lot of functions and tests not applicable to the vehicle. The Autels are an enhanced tool but the Autel DS708 is the legacy version. Hope that helps.
When I need to solder lightly corroded wires I usually take 220-320 grit sand paper and pinch the copper between the paper and lightly drag the sand paper toward the end of the wire. Clean up the wire after with some electrical cleaner of sorts to remove any dust and then solder. Usually works pretty good.
@@fascistpedant758 I am a bit skeptical but I have seen these (on videos) seem to work alright. My issue is when soldering, the copper also needs to be heated up to allow the solder to bond with the copper. My question is, is the copper being heated up enough for the solder to bond? I have seen some people pull hard with these and they joint didn't break. I think it shows promise if the wire is prepared correctly.
I guess they would be fine on clean copper and,as he mentioned, using a heat gun. It seems difficult to heat evenly and for enough time to heat the wire without burning the heatshrink, using a flame. I still prefer to see a solder joint properly to be sure the solder is wetting the copper as it should. I'll have to try one someday.
I found that using the yellow solder sleeve works much better on a connection that size. It seems that the blue ones don't have enough solder to fill it. When I first started using them I always tried to use whichever one fitted snug around the wire before heating. But they just end up overheating before getting a good flow through the wire. Move to next size up and surprisingly the solder melts faster and much more evenly. I suspect this man be due to the solder being able to absorb all the heat and melt before it's pulled onto the wire and having heat taken by the wire. They stay clear too doing it this way. Don't turn black or discolour. Very strong connection too.
I like using the crimp connectors that after you crimp you use heat to seal it until the adhesive flows out the end. The ones that GM uses in their connector repair kits have been problem free anytime I used them. I bought a pair of ratcheting crimpers like GM supplied in their electrical repair kit, the things work great, almost impossible to do a bad crimp with them.
That PowerProbe is great - I definitely need to get one of those. Working solo, it's like having another person there at the flick of a switch ... except for that crank command requirement for the computer to start the engine. Yeah, that thing is basically an Autel with a different name - wonder why they do that? Why not just keep it an Autel? Strange! Excellent as always, brother Paul. 👍👍🍻
A tip for doing heat shrink with a lighter, the temp is hotter if you hold the heat shrink 1-2 inches above the tip of the flame instead of directly in the flame. It also decreases the chances of it charring the tubing like it did for you.
As far as melting heat shrink butt connectors goes, Power Probe makes a butane soldering iron. It has an open tip in the kit that acts as a heat gun. It's how I do almost all of my heat shrink. I have a Milwaukee soldering iron for solder work.
in my experience using very similar connectors from napa an electric heatgun works far better on them than any other heat source i love using them the connectors seem to be very good
Hey Paul I seem to have or have an alltel in the binder erectional commands that you were applying or controlling to turn the wipers on on the upper left side it has numbers that match with the bottom numbers to control the on or off or toggle
The Wagner HT400 works well for those type of soldered connectors. We use them in aviation all the time. I have the HT400 and it does a great job for stuff like this.
But I always crimp with the appropriate tools when I can. In my experience crimped connections with quality shrink tubing is much stronger than any solder connection.
I enjoy these videos however I've seen similar cases you have tackled with the same issue and I'm more interested in what your thoughts are with the new scan tool (hope that didn't come accross as cheeky), I know you want more practice before appraising the tool properly! I have an autel which is basically the same and I'd like to see you select data pids and graph data etc during a diagnosis like you do so well with the snap on. thanks for taking the time to make the video
That is coming, though to be honest, I already know which one does that better and it is the Snap-on scan tools. The Autel does not record all the data, only the live ones you see on the screen.
"40 amps" to make it crank? did I hear that right or do I recall wrongly..... seemed the solenoid coli was more like 10 to 15 amps, requiring low voltage drop to have enough force.....
I use bare butt connectors and a good sealing heat shrink or electrical repairs. The nice thing about them is you can use solder as insurance. They work good especially in conditions like this where the wire is still good but a little green.
I'm not an auto technician, but I believe troubleshooting electrical issues is beyond the scope of most technicians. I still have a cranking issue with by Taurus 2005 that the technician said was a draw from the radio. $200 dollars later, not only is the problem not resolved, but he created another problem with the electrical system. Now the air bag indicator light flashes on and off for about 30 times and then just stays on. I like to support independent technicians, but I'll be taking it to Ford. Hopefully they can figure it out. I suspect it's a simple problem, but requires a true electrical expert. I wish we had a ScannerDanner in my next of the woods.
Your absolutely correct. Electrical is not for your average tech. I am an L1 master ASE Tech. And have 20 years of electrical diag under my belt..... so that being said I still get ones that just kick my butt. I always win. But at the expense of time and money.
@@burtpilon1735 San Francisco Bay Area. I'll be taking my car into Walnut Creek Ford. They have an excellent reputation, and I've already talked with Tim who is familiar with these issues.
At the top the tool just tells you what the F functions mean,you always toggle from the bottom. It’s not a glitch,Autel is the same. Thanks for the video Paul! 👍
But you can click on them and it highlights it and makes a click sound lol, this is what is misleading and needs to be changed. Also, when you click on the F functions, it doesn't change the highlighted box above. Definitely not the way it should be :-)
ScannerDanner This is just my humble opinion,but I think you’re used to the SnapOn software. The Autel based tool will kick the SnapOn you know where in terms of functionality,but you don’t have much support and you really have to know what you’re doing. In my opinion,when you pay for SnapOn you pay for the support and the technical data found within the tool : like connector layout,best testing location,known good waveforms etc...not for functionality.
@@nicknicu1787 Snap-on is WAY better with managing scan data (recording, playback, comparing data PIDs, data lists etc), I'm not arguing your point, just saying there are pros and cons to both tools
ScannerDanner you’re right on. I have the Elite and if I’m not doing immo it stays in its box. My snap on Verus edge has a better layout and ease of use. Much better pid layout so you can watch so many systems at once. Pro demand and ask the experts, along with real fix, wire diagrams, known good wave forms, it’s faster and of btw just to kick Autel in the balls and built in 4 ch scope. My Autel Elite scope is a pos. I have the Autel for my bmw diesel that’s only reason I bought it.
wish Snap-on would play ball with me smh I talk their scan tools up all the time and it's from the heart. Obviously, because I see no kick backs from them.
that's not a software glitch autel scanner work that way, nice little tablet and do more than snap on key programming on autel is more advanced and price wise is way more affordable than any other company's, product I personally like the snap on verus because commodities of the scope that's it ,software wise is not that good to work on European vehicles autel have more advantage on that area nice video like always 👍👍
Always look forward to your videos. Thank you for sharing. Almost all the UA-cam channels I watch have moved away from Snap-On to Autel or OTC. Price? Speed? Performance?
To be honest, Snap-on does not offer affiliate linking. In other words, the companies offer creators a small % of traffic that comes their way when a tool is purchased. It has nothing to do with the tool itself. I wish Snap-on would play ball with me. I promote their stuff all the time. This is why you do not see other creators pushing for Snap-on. So what I've been doing for a long time is trying to find a good aftermarket Scan tool that I myself am happy with. One that I can endorse with a good conscience. The Autel is proving to be that tool. And it is nice to get a little kick back for it. I will not just endorse a scan tool for the affiliate like other creators do. It has to be good.
So what do you think of the scan tool compared to the snap on scan tools? I had a Autel and I liked it but now have a modis Edge and in many ways it’s way more elite and the functionality is more practical what I did like about the Autel was the control modules it was able to access especially for euro cars
Scan data (recording, freezing, reviewing, measuring values etc) is by far, way better on the Snap-on units. It looks like the Autel has the advantage when it comes to talking with different modules and offering bidirectional controls
Are Ford's sequential electrónic fuel injection systems from 2000's suppost to fire all 6 injectors at the same time during cranking? Can't find any info online, and you are the expert man!!
0:00 Hey guys scannerdanner here, i wasnt planning on filming because ive still got this stinking hangover from the other night but my buddies jeep is working great and ill be back soon
Awesome work Paul thank u for sharing another great video.. Wanted to ask about this Scanner does it have scope capabilities and how much cheaper is it than the Snap On
no scope on this one brother just a scan tool And as far as costs, there are a bunch of different model Snap-on units, but if you are talking about the Verus? It is around $10K
Yeah I know about the Verus that bad boy is a little to far out of my price range lol.. Actually I was speaking of the Auro the one u are testing in this video I heard you say that u was surprised at all the on board systems the u could communicate with while using it.. It is a pretty good scanner and worth saving for also what's the price tag on it
on the heat shrinks with the solder sleeve they have flux.give the solder sleeve a firm squeeze with a pliers to get the solder in contact with the wire.
Hey danner good diagnosis I think some else would of been like o you need a new starter no crank I find all your videos very helpful thank you for your videos and sharing your knowledge and I also want to thank danner jr for helping with the videos I hope you make more videos soon o and does that scanner work for evap to close the vent solenoid
Scanner Danner without a Snapon? What are your initial thoughts on the Auro? I have an MS908P which I never updated because of the trouble Autel got into and took features away with updates. I think the IM600 may be its replacement in a couple of years time.
I will reserves comment until I've used the tool more, let's just say, this was a loner that I ended up buying because I like it so much :-) Got some more videos coming with it so you guys can see it.
Kirk Abrahamson I have the Autel Elite and I’ve programmed Nissan, Honda and Ford keys. I love the Elite, with that said my Snap On Verus edge layout and diag functions blow the Autel out of the water. Autel might of gotten a hand slap but in no way did they take any features out in fact since the 708 they come so so far. If they had a lab scope built in like the snap on it would be 10x the machine. Thier lab scope is terrible
@@weldingjunkie Yep bought the scope. Very disappointed. There was a lot of people complaining of some features being removed after updates so whether they did or not I am not sure as I decided to not risk losing features. Been very happy with its performance.
xyz4469 that’s only if you back it up you still need to update the machine. I think you would have to restore it to go back to an earlier version I update mine always. The Elite does everything I need keys included
xyz4469 just to be clear you cannot just put the update onto the sd card you can only back up what you have on the machine like a full hard drive back up on a computer
Ford went to the "spade terminal" for a while, but it was a major issue for them too, luckily, it was a eyelet to tab converter, which went on the "unchanged starter" stud with a locking nut/washer. aftermarket and they all went back to harness modification, starters were supplied with sealed ring terminal eyelet to butt splice. go figure . I may have partially caused that, public ranting about chinesium and junk DOES in fact help curb totally stupendous things ;)
I would love to see how this auro does on pid refresh compared to the snap on. I noticed with my launch is that it is way slower on the pids then it is with my snap on verus. And I would really like to buy a scan tool that is not snap on.
phillip zanders my Snap On Verus edge 18.4 is so much faster than my Autel Elite. It won’t beat it on immo but that’s it. My edge is faster, pid layout is incredible you can watch 20 pids at once, 4ch scope with buffer, record and playback. It has real fix, connector view, wire diagram, known good wave forms, where parts are example say sensor? Shows where it is on the motor. Lastly I have my pro demand on it, if you know what pro demand is it’s incredible, shop time estimate, real fixes, ask the experts, shows you OEM parts, fluids data, tire sizes, so so many more features. I love my elite size of it the case the key programming but it doesn’t hold a candle and can’t do half of what my Verus edge can do. Also snap ones added Harley and immo keys to 18.4 revision I barley use my Elite which I got new for $2500 with the j box and wireless VCi. I paid $3500 for my snap on Verus edge and it was new basically
Snap-on, by far has the edge on Data Pids and the functionality there. (Recording, freezing, reviewing data, comparing values etc) But I think the Autel/Auro definitely has it's place as well. Got a case study coming up on an Infinity with an immobilizer issue where the Auro was the key!!
Sorry Paul, sometimes when we text speech words they don't come out right and accidentally pushing the send button without checking the proper grammar doesn't help at all. I was trying to say on the bi-directional on the wiper operation you were pushing on the left or the upper highlighted columns which really don't do anything, but the command buttons are at the bottoms that match the number or letter on the upper part of the screen. Keep up the good work Paul .
No problem! I just think if you can click on an icon and it changes color and even makes a click sound, it should do something. Bad design in my opinion
yes and for $1300 or whatever the list price is, it is worth it as it is a bi-directional scan tool but I hate it because it is sooooo slow. To be fair, there is a new update and I need to run it and see how it does after.
Then your shouldn't be able to click on them! they change color and make a sound as if they should be doing something, also when you click the F buttons, the displays on the screen are not coordinated with it. lol. I'm still calling it a glitch
you are the best bro but you speak very fast I suffer a lot to learn, there are thousands who do not speak English well I hope you'll take my comment in consideration.
acid flux would clean it up, BUT it will also wick back into the wire and cause corrosion behind the fix inside the coating, pretty much like the salt water has done now... only true fix cut it back until dry and clean, abandon the wire and run new.....
best fix for a Dodge is the crushers, more so if it's beyond years old :)) them solder connectors MEH, I'd rather use the crimp style shrink/sealing splices myself, of course you need to use a a heat gun or lighter and evenly heat to not blow them out also...
The price looks pretty reasonable for that scanner.I bought a little weller butane solder/heater gun for them connectors that work super ! The power probe model works good also. But I’m sure you have all that too.
Yes after I pay my Verus Edge Off i will be creeping to the autel I really like the reviews and all . Really loving the Verus also And i find myself using the scope more than the scanner lately and I can’t seem bite the bullet on the 18.4 update at the moment. But if SD does more videos about this unit it may be in the line up. It was him who lead me to the Verus.
Burt Pilon I paid $3500 for my Verus edge with 18.4 I scored it, brand new. I use pro demand on it all the time so I don’t have to run to the computer for sure diagram. 18.4 is awesome you should really think about buying it. My Elite stays in the box most of the time. It’s slow compared to the edge and the pid layout is awful compared the edge. I love the snap on pid layout
agree, Snap-on, by far has the edge on Data Pids and the functionality there. (Recording, freezing, reviewing data, comparing values etc) But I think the Autel/Auro definitely has it's place as well. Got a case study coming up on an Infinity with an immobilizer issue where the Auro was the key!!
Why didn't you just use Solder, Flux and a piece of adhesive shrink tube? When I work with corroded wires I use Petro Based Acid Flux dipping it several times(hot) I know! You just wanted to play with them nifty soft solder tubes LOL
not a fan of the solder splice, I prefer RA flux in a dropper squeeze bottle , non insulated seamless crimp, soldering gun, adhesive lined heat shrink, premium 3M electrical tape 33+ or super 88 works great in cold weather. 3M scotchkote- (not liquid electrical tape.) - PS - I own a boat used in saltwater! 3M Tape comparison multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/770753O/3mtm-vinyl-tape-performance-comparison-chart.pdf
In my opinion these are the worse butt connectors , I would always advise soldering first and if not use a quality heat shrink butt connector from duraseal or 3m and not the Chinese crappy ones.
@@ScannerDanner i use these solder heat shrink conectors but as found the wires have to be clean. Any oxidization and the solder dosent flow...crimps are the way to go for them..
Put a drop of flux on the joint before sliding the solder heat shrink connector over it. Flux should remove some of that corrosion so the solder can flow into it better. I usually just solder the wires together and put regular heat shrink over it unless it's a spot that gets hot, then i use crimp connectors. I've seen a video of someone soldering multiple wires together the regular way vs with these solder heat shrink connectors and the conclusion was that you really don't save that much time with these solder heat shrink thingies.
you just did, right here :-) I don't offer individual tech support, sorry my friend. 170,000 other people want this from me too and I cannot keep up. If you have specific needs, post them to my forum. It is free to join www.scannerdanner.com/forum/post-your-repair-questions-here.html
I just can’t be sold on those solder-filled butt connectors. I can’t imagine that even in the most ideal conditions that they could ever be more resilient than a mediocre solder job with marine grade shrink tube. Also, I’ve never seen anyone use too much flux on a joint...
awesome, loud farting exhausts leaks and the starter solenoid to motor supply wire green corroded as hell, coming very soon, no start, starter bad =p to be honest, I'd have done both if it was mine and possibly the battery to starter terminal end too. past lessons of life. even thought I hate and will not own another crapsler anything ( exacept maybe a classic, pre-JUNKTRONICS)
Auro (Autel) OtoSys (MaxiSys) woth the same exact operating system and layout. Im hoping its even more generic as an Autel and you got it for a steal, cuz i'd buy one if its under $1,000 😂
Just pulled a 08 Nissan Altima 3.5 cvt tranny I have a 08 maxima 3.5 coming in two days. Does it need reprogramming or just the clear the EEPROM in the tcm. From what I understand on Nissan the TCM doesn’t need to be touched except for the EEPROM can anyone who’s done a CVT swap confirm?
I laughed when you said "On these newer vehicles" and I'm looking at what looks like the Titanic of rust.
wyattoneable...that's funny, Wyatt, except the titanic is so far down, rust can't get to it. Plus, the big three didn't make the titanic, so it will last for decades, sitting on the bottom of a salt water bath!
Eric O would feel right at home.
lee minnis...at the titanic?? Lol
Hey Paul greetings a tip here , i spent couple of years on the US NAVY as a technician and while i was there they thought us that never solder a connection that was on a prone to vibration place because it can crack and have issues later ,just use butt connectors or heat shrink tubing or heat shrink electrical tape ,only solder connections that were indside with no vibtation,just a tip here man,as i always said nice job your doing Paul i have learned a lof from your channel ,i forgott if you can help me out to like and share my page ,i just opened a channel a couple of weeks back ,ill be doing some videos on english too,
God Bless NEVER GIVE UP!! TAKE CARE !! From Puerto Rico ,Ken!!
I guess you realize you're not selling everyone on those connectors. They're one of those great ideas that end up having limited applications. Thanks for continuing to post videos on youtube, it's appreciated. Have a great 2019.
Thumbs up for not deleting the failed solder with the lighter, thank you! I'm not yet sold on the single stage solder/heat shrink, too easy to leave an inadequate joint after saving less than a minute of time. Great to see another scanner, I wonder how that's gonna shake out.
You brought up a good point about those 'built in solder' butt splice connectors.. If the wires are oxidized, or has some crusties, it's going to be a bad joint. Might be better off with a good crimp connector. cleaning the wire better, and additional flux would certainly help.
you are the best teacher i ever seen , thanks bro
Suck him up then
I used to use the Autel pro was horrible took way to long to connect to a vehicle and data pids were minimal. sold that now use the snap on zeus. Great video again too man
. That scanner is just like the autel . The autel is a beast !!!! The autel does program keys 🔑 remotes and pcm/ecm and bcm programming I love it my snap on has massive layers of dust on it
Thank you Mr. Danner for all you do. From Sweden
I’m still not get grip with those solder shrink wrap, every single one that I have try to use ended up using crimp connector with shrink wrap with glue adhesive inside
But Paul again great video 👍 all done ✅ mate
The thing about the Auro/Autel tools is understanding that if the manufacturer of the vehicle coded a functional test it will work but if not it wont. The options for some tests and functions may not always work although you might see an item listed. I use an Autel everyday but when I need total diagnostics for driveability and scope I grab the Verus. You also need to understand the manufactures that have Legacy and enhanced versions and when the years they converted. A prime example is using the Autel on an older Chrysler during the DRB3 era. The autel will work but it will show a lot of functions and tests not applicable to the vehicle. The Autels are an enhanced tool but the Autel DS708 is the legacy version. Hope that helps.
Same options as Maxisys Elite
A young tech like me..looking..at all methods..of diagnosis..thanks again for the useful content I can put into practice paul.✌
When I need to solder lightly corroded wires I usually take 220-320 grit sand paper and pinch the copper between the paper and lightly drag the sand paper toward the end of the wire. Clean up the wire after with some electrical cleaner of sorts to remove any dust and then solder. Usually works pretty good.
I agree, but I still would not trust that connector. You cant really tell if the joint is any good.
@@fascistpedant758 I am a bit skeptical but I have seen these (on videos) seem to work alright. My issue is when soldering, the copper also needs to be heated up to allow the solder to bond with the copper. My question is, is the copper being heated up enough for the solder to bond? I have seen some people pull hard with these and they joint didn't break. I think it shows promise if the wire is prepared correctly.
I guess they would be fine on clean copper and,as he mentioned, using a heat gun. It seems difficult to heat evenly and for enough time to heat the wire without burning the heatshrink, using a flame. I still prefer to see a solder joint properly to be sure the solder is wetting the copper as it should. I'll have to try one someday.
The man makes broken wires interesting. Great stuff Danner. Lets go pens.
Booo Pens, Go Habs!
I found that using the yellow solder sleeve works much better on a connection that size. It seems that the blue ones don't have enough solder to fill it. When I first started using them I always tried to use whichever one fitted snug around the wire before heating. But they just end up overheating before getting a good flow through the wire. Move to next size up and surprisingly the solder melts faster and much more evenly. I suspect this man be due to the solder being able to absorb all the heat and melt before it's pulled onto the wire and having heat taken by the wire. They stay clear too doing it this way. Don't turn black or discolour. Very strong connection too.
very helpful information! Thanks so much. I will remember this and apply it next time
Love your cable repairs. Im abit of a wiring freak =) i just bought 300 shrink butt connectors because of you =) 😁
Thank you Paul. Bless you and your family brother.
I like using the crimp connectors that after you crimp you use heat to seal it until the adhesive flows out the end. The ones that GM uses in their connector repair kits have been problem free anytime I used them. I bought a pair of ratcheting crimpers like GM supplied in their electrical repair kit, the things work great, almost impossible to do a bad crimp with them.
That PowerProbe is great - I definitely need to get one of those. Working solo, it's like having another person there at the flick of a switch ... except for that crank command requirement for the computer to start the engine.
Yeah, that thing is basically an Autel with a different name - wonder why they do that? Why not just keep it an Autel? Strange!
Excellent as always, brother Paul. 👍👍🍻
A tip for doing heat shrink with a lighter, the temp is hotter if you hold the heat shrink 1-2 inches above the tip of the flame instead of directly in the flame. It also decreases the chances of it charring the tubing like it did for you.
The difference between starting and not starting is such a fine line, or in this case a wire.
Power probe is a powerful tool 👍💪
As far as melting heat shrink butt connectors goes, Power Probe makes a butane soldering iron. It has an open tip in the kit that acts as a heat gun. It's how I do almost all of my heat shrink. I have a Milwaukee soldering iron for solder work.
Addendum. I just realized that this video is 5 years old and you probably realize all of this by now. 😂😂
in my experience using very similar connectors from napa an electric heatgun works far better on them than any other heat source i love using them the connectors seem to be very good
Absolutely right. In fact those solder sleeves are supposed to be melted with a heat gun. A flame is a bit too much. Wanna guess how I know?
Hey Paul I seem to have or have an alltel in the binder erectional commands that you were applying or controlling to turn the wipers on on the upper left side it has numbers that match with the bottom numbers to control the on or off or toggle
The Wagner HT400 works well for those type of soldered connectors. We use them in aviation all the time. I have the HT400 and it does a great job for stuff like this.
But I always crimp with the appropriate tools when I can. In my experience crimped connections with quality shrink tubing is much stronger than any solder connection.
I enjoy these videos however I've seen similar cases you have tackled with the same issue and I'm more interested in what your thoughts are with the new scan tool (hope that didn't come accross as cheeky), I know you want more practice before appraising the tool properly! I have an autel which is basically the same and I'd like to see you select data pids and graph data etc during a diagnosis like you do so well with the snap on. thanks for taking the time to make the video
That is coming, though to be honest, I already know which one does that better and it is the Snap-on scan tools. The Autel does not record all the data, only the live ones you see on the screen.
That scanner is the Autel IM608, it was a separate pro lock smith box but Autel bought them out and added the elite software to it.
"40 amps" to make it crank? did I hear that right or do I recall wrongly..... seemed the solenoid coli was more like 10 to 15 amps, requiring low voltage drop to have enough force.....
I use bare butt connectors and a good sealing heat shrink or electrical repairs. The nice thing about them is you can use solder as insurance. They work good especially in conditions like this where the wire is still good but a little green.
I'm not an auto technician, but I believe troubleshooting electrical issues is beyond the scope of most technicians. I still have a cranking issue with by Taurus 2005 that the technician said was a draw from the radio. $200 dollars later, not only is the problem not resolved, but he created another problem with the electrical system. Now the air bag indicator light flashes on and off for about 30 times and then just stays on. I like to support independent technicians, but I'll be taking it to Ford. Hopefully they can figure it out. I suspect it's a simple problem, but requires a true electrical expert.
I wish we had a ScannerDanner in my next of the woods.
Your absolutely correct. Electrical is not for your average tech. I am an L1 master ASE Tech. And have 20 years of electrical diag under my belt..... so that being said I still get ones that just kick my butt. I always win. But at the expense of time and money.
And that is the one thing I hate about this field. it takes one person to make everyone call us all incompetent.
Anthony White where’s your neck of the woods Anthony
Anthony White the techs at Ford may not be electrical experts either.
@@burtpilon1735 San Francisco Bay Area. I'll be taking my car into Walnut Creek Ford. They have an excellent reputation, and I've already talked with Tim who is familiar with these issues.
At the top the tool just tells you what the F functions mean,you always toggle from the bottom. It’s not a glitch,Autel is the same.
Thanks for the video Paul! 👍
But you can click on them and it highlights it and makes a click sound lol, this is what is misleading and needs to be changed. Also, when you click on the F functions, it doesn't change the highlighted box above. Definitely not the way it should be :-)
ScannerDanner This is just my humble opinion,but I think you’re used to the SnapOn software. The Autel based tool will kick the SnapOn you know where in terms of functionality,but you don’t have much support and you really have to know what you’re doing. In my opinion,when you pay for SnapOn you pay for the support and the technical data found within the tool : like connector layout,best testing location,known good waveforms etc...not for functionality.
@@nicknicu1787 Snap-on is WAY better with managing scan data (recording, playback, comparing data PIDs, data lists etc), I'm not arguing your point, just saying there are pros and cons to both tools
ScannerDanner you’re right on. I have the Elite and if I’m not doing immo it stays in its box. My snap on Verus edge has a better layout and ease of use. Much better pid layout so you can watch so many systems at once. Pro demand and ask the experts, along with real fix, wire diagrams, known good wave forms, it’s faster and of btw just to kick Autel in the balls and built in 4 ch scope. My Autel Elite scope is a pos. I have the Autel for my bmw diesel that’s only reason I bought it.
wish Snap-on would play ball with me smh I talk their scan tools up all the time and it's from the heart. Obviously, because I see no kick backs from them.
that's not a software glitch autel scanner work that way, nice little tablet and do more than snap on key programming on autel is more advanced and price wise is way more affordable than any other company's, product I personally like the snap on verus because commodities of the scope that's it ,software wise is not that good to work on European vehicles autel have more advantage on that area nice video like always 👍👍
great job again Paul thanks for share
Always look forward to your videos. Thank you for sharing. Almost all the UA-cam channels I watch have moved away from Snap-On to Autel or OTC. Price? Speed? Performance?
To be honest, Snap-on does not offer affiliate linking. In other words, the companies offer creators a small % of traffic that comes their way when a tool is purchased. It has nothing to do with the tool itself. I wish Snap-on would play ball with me. I promote their stuff all the time. This is why you do not see other creators pushing for Snap-on. So what I've been doing for a long time is trying to find a good aftermarket Scan tool that I myself am happy with. One that I can endorse with a good conscience. The Autel is proving to be that tool. And it is nice to get a little kick back for it. I will not just endorse a scan tool for the affiliate like other creators do. It has to be good.
For many the Autel does much more at a lot lower price. Like all tools it has a few quirks though.
So what do you think of the scan tool compared to the snap on scan tools? I had a Autel and I liked it but now have a modis Edge and in many ways it’s way more elite and the functionality is more practical what I did like about the Autel was the control modules it was able to access especially for euro cars
Scan data (recording, freezing, reviewing, measuring values etc) is by far, way better on the Snap-on units. It looks like the Autel has the advantage when it comes to talking with different modules and offering bidirectional controls
Are Ford's sequential electrónic fuel injection systems from 2000's suppost to fire all 6 injectors at the same time during cranking? Can't find any info online, and you are the expert man!!
Manifold leak next? Some fixed lean signals possibly coming?
0:00 Hey guys scannerdanner here, i wasnt planning on filming because ive still got this stinking hangover from the other night but my buddies jeep is working great and ill be back soon
Awesome work Paul thank u for sharing another great video.. Wanted to ask about this Scanner does it have scope capabilities and how much cheaper is it than the Snap On
no scope on this one brother just a scan tool
And as far as costs, there are a bunch of different model Snap-on units, but if you are talking about the Verus? It is around $10K
Yeah I know about the Verus that bad boy is a little to far out of my price range lol.. Actually I was speaking of the Auro the one u are testing in this video I heard you say that u was surprised at all the on board systems the u could communicate with while using it.. It is a pretty good scanner and worth saving for also what's the price tag on it
on the heat shrinks with the solder sleeve they have flux.give the solder sleeve a firm squeeze with a pliers to get the solder in contact with the wire.
Great tool, lots of options with it... can you heat up Petes earring,
Thank you for another perfect video!!!
I’ve seen underwater barges with less rust...
Hey danner good diagnosis I think some else would of been like o you need a new starter no crank I find all your videos very helpful thank you for your videos and sharing your knowledge and I also want to thank danner jr for helping with the videos I hope you make more videos soon o and does that scanner work for evap to close the vent solenoid
yes it does Ernesto. This scan tool has more bidirectional tests available to me than any other scan tool I've used
@@ScannerDanner ok danner I'll look into that scanner I'm looking around for one thank you for the reply
Scanner Danner without a Snapon? What are your initial thoughts on the Auro? I have an MS908P which I never updated because of the trouble Autel got into and took features away with updates. I think the IM600 may be its replacement in a couple of years time.
I will reserves comment until I've used the tool more, let's just say, this was a loner that I ended up buying because I like it so much :-) Got some more videos coming with it so you guys can see it.
Kirk Abrahamson I have the Autel Elite and I’ve programmed Nissan, Honda and Ford keys. I love the Elite, with that said my Snap On Verus edge layout and diag functions blow the Autel out of the water. Autel might of gotten a hand slap but in no way did they take any features out in fact since the 708 they come so so far. If they had a lab scope built in like the snap on it would be 10x the machine. Thier lab scope is terrible
@@weldingjunkie Yep bought the scope. Very disappointed. There was a lot of people complaining of some features being removed after updates so whether they did or not I am not sure as I decided to not risk losing features. Been very happy with its performance.
xyz4469 that’s only if you back it up you still need to update the machine. I think you would have to restore it to go back to an earlier version I update mine always. The Elite does everything I need keys included
xyz4469 just to be clear you cannot just put the update onto the sd card you can only back up what you have on the machine like a full hard drive back up on a computer
Outstanding job awesome thanks
Ford went to the "spade terminal" for a while, but it was a major issue for them too, luckily, it was a eyelet to tab converter, which went on the "unchanged starter" stud with a locking nut/washer.
aftermarket and they all went back to harness modification, starters were supplied with sealed ring terminal eyelet to butt splice. go figure .
I may have partially caused that, public ranting about chinesium and junk DOES in fact help curb totally stupendous things ;)
أشكر اهتمامك بنشر العلم
I wish Google offered automatic translate like facebook does :-(
Keep up the awesome videos.
The solenoid pulls 40 amps? Also looks like you need a power probe penetrator gives you extra 6 inches and is real sharp to get good contact
Initial amperage (when both windings are energized, before the motor starts to spin)
High inrush current - that is why you pre hold the switch on a power probe as to not weld the switch contacts
I have used my power probe 3 for 10 years doing this never had a problem now my 4 for a few years what is the breaker amperage on I power probe
8 amps
I would love to see how this auro does on pid refresh compared to the snap on. I noticed with my launch is that it is way slower on the pids then it is with my snap on verus. And I would really like to buy a scan tool that is not snap on.
Which Verus ? 1,2 or edge? The Verus edge smokes my Elite
@@weldingjunkie how does it smoke it?
phillip zanders my Snap On Verus edge 18.4 is so much faster than my Autel Elite. It won’t beat it on immo but that’s it. My edge is faster, pid layout is incredible you can watch 20 pids at once, 4ch scope with buffer, record and playback. It has real fix, connector view, wire diagram, known good wave forms, where parts are example say sensor? Shows where it is on the motor. Lastly I have my pro demand on it, if you know what pro demand is it’s incredible, shop time estimate, real fixes, ask the experts, shows you OEM parts, fluids data, tire sizes, so so many more features. I love my elite size of it the case the key programming but it doesn’t hold a candle and can’t do half of what my Verus edge can do. Also snap ones added Harley and immo keys to 18.4 revision I barley use my Elite which I got new for $2500 with the j box and wireless VCi. I paid $3500 for my snap on Verus edge and it was new basically
Snap-on, by far has the edge on Data Pids and the functionality there. (Recording, freezing, reviewing data, comparing values etc)
But I think the Autel/Auro definitely has it's place as well. Got a case study coming up on an Infinity with an immobilizer issue where the Auro was the key!!
ScannerDanner looking foward to it. I use my Autel Elite that too. Snap on needs to up thier game with that
if you heat up the bare wire end with the soldering iron and dip it in acid it will clean it up real good and will take solder then
thank for sharing
Hey, Paul
Wow. Up for 25 minutes and a thumbs down. Some people have no clue lol
lol i know
Sorry Paul, sometimes when we text speech words they don't come out right and accidentally pushing the send button without checking the proper grammar doesn't help at all. I was trying to say on the bi-directional on the wiper operation you were pushing on the left or the upper highlighted columns which really don't do anything, but the command buttons are at the bottoms that match the number or letter on the upper part of the screen. Keep up the good work Paul .
No problem! I just think if you can click on an icon and it changes color and even makes a click sound, it should do something. Bad design in my opinion
Do you own or have used the OTC Encore?
yes and for $1300 or whatever the list price is, it is worth it as it is a bi-directional scan tool but I hate it because it is sooooo slow. To be fair, there is a new update and I need to run it and see how it does after.
Hi Danner i have ordered your book for two times but both times am told its not in stock. Are you not producing the book any more?
It is always in stock. Where are you ordering from? AESwave is the only supplier of my paper book. Are you getting that message from them?
@@ScannerDanner I am in Europe but i ordered it to an address in North Carolina
I order from AESwave.com
So is everything good now?
@@ScannerDanner Yes thanks
Also when you said software glitch the autel is the same way those are just your options on the screen you have to activate the options at the bottom
Then your shouldn't be able to click on them! they change color and make a sound as if they should be doing something, also when you click the F buttons, the displays on the screen are not coordinated with it. lol. I'm still calling it a glitch
you are the best bro but you speak very fast I suffer a lot to learn, there are thousands who do not speak English well
I hope you'll take my comment in consideration.
You change change the video speed :-)
Maybe dumb question, Where did you get the new connector?
not dumb at all, cut it off of a car that was being scraped lol
Hey Sensei, did you retire the VERUS EDGE?
absolutely not!
Haha can’t wait for the VERUS vs AURO video
acid flux would clean it up, BUT it will also wick back into the wire and cause corrosion behind the fix inside the coating, pretty much like the salt water has done now...
only true fix cut it back until dry and clean, abandon the wire and run new.....
Hey Paul why didn't you ever do the Ice Bucket Challenge that you were called out on?
because I don't follow "trends"
And hear I thought the Tesla Tape could only be used on Elon Musk's electric cars.
Good video Professor.
Pretty neat tool.
I give that starter one more season in the road salt before its gone by the looks of the sparks coming out of it when it was running
you saw sparks??
@@ScannerDanner I was sure I saw sparks after the fix test , but ive looked many times now again and I cant see what I saw, sorry about that
@@mammutit no problem at all, thanks!
mammutit - seriously, that starter could go any minute. We almost certainly sabotaged it just thinking about it
best fix for a Dodge is the crushers, more so if it's beyond years old :))
them solder connectors MEH, I'd rather use the crimp style shrink/sealing splices myself, of course you need to use a a heat gun or lighter and evenly heat to not blow them out also...
super bro
What a crappy connector! Not for the rust belt! I do like your wire weaving to solder technique. I do that too, nice, tight and neat.
Nice new scanner, btw that car is rusted a/f
sure was lol
Next time try one of those handheld butane torches for the soldering.
that's what I used the second time
You are great big.
The display for F1-3 is basically telling you that you need to click on the lower tabs to activate what mode you want
I listen to wdve also. What part of Pittsburgh are you from
South Hills of the Burg
ScannerDanner I’m not far from ya
The price looks pretty reasonable for that scanner.I bought a little weller butane solder/heater gun for them connectors that work super ! The power probe model works good also. But I’m sure you have all that too.
Burt Pilon the Autel Elite is on sale for 2500 awesome price. I’ve done some Nissan and ford keys so far. I love my Verus edge tho.
Yes after I pay my Verus Edge Off i will be creeping to the autel I really like the reviews and all . Really loving the Verus also And i find myself using the scope more than the scanner lately and I can’t seem bite the bullet on the 18.4 update at the moment. But if SD does more videos about this unit it may be in the line up. It was him who lead me to the Verus.
Burt Pilon I paid $3500 for my Verus edge with 18.4 I scored it, brand new. I use pro demand on it all the time so I don’t have to run to the computer for sure diagram. 18.4 is awesome you should really think about buying it. My Elite stays in the box most of the time. It’s slow compared to the edge and the pid layout is awful compared the edge. I love the snap on pid layout
agree, Snap-on, by far has the edge on Data Pids and the functionality there. (Recording, freezing, reviewing data, comparing values etc)
But I think the Autel/Auro definitely has it's place as well. Got a case study coming up on an Infinity with an immobilizer issue where the Auro was the key!!
True. Looking forward to it 👍🏻
Wow didn't know the power probe can handle that much current.
Just the initial current is this high and to be honest, probably not good for the tool
What a rust bucket. Reminds me of my truck...
Why didn't you just use Solder, Flux and a piece of adhesive shrink tube? When I work with corroded wires I use Petro Based Acid Flux dipping it several times(hot)
I know! You just wanted to play with them nifty soft solder tubes LOL
Pretty much lol
not a fan of the solder splice, I prefer RA flux in a dropper squeeze bottle , non insulated seamless crimp, soldering gun, adhesive lined heat shrink, premium 3M electrical tape 33+ or super 88 works great in cold weather. 3M scotchkote- (not liquid electrical tape.) - PS - I own a boat used in saltwater! 3M Tape comparison multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/770753O/3mtm-vinyl-tape-performance-comparison-chart.pdf
Good old Hemi exhaust leak lol.
Are you still using this scan tool?
Yes I am
In my opinion these are the worse butt connectors , I would always advise soldering first and if not use a quality heat shrink butt connector from duraseal or 3m and not the Chinese crappy ones.
I'm still undecided.
@@ScannerDanner i use these solder heat shrink conectors but as found the wires have to be clean. Any oxidization and the solder dosent flow...crimps are the way to go for them..
Put a drop of flux on the joint before sliding the solder heat shrink connector over it. Flux should remove some of that corrosion so the solder can flow into it better. I usually just solder the wires together and put regular heat shrink over it unless it's a spot that gets hot, then i use crimp connectors. I've seen a video of someone soldering multiple wires together the regular way vs with these solder heat shrink connectors and the conclusion was that you really don't save that much time with these solder heat shrink thingies.
The solder sleeves don't save time or labor. They are used to make it easier and quicker to make the joint not assemble the system faster.
That Auro is the same as Autel MaxiCom MK908P
so I am told, yes
You need a pocket knife to scrape the copper?
Sir how can i contact U i'm waiting for your reply
you just did, right here :-) I don't offer individual tech support, sorry my friend. 170,000 other people want this from me too and I cannot keep up. If you have specific needs, post them to my forum. It is free to join www.scannerdanner.com/forum/post-your-repair-questions-here.html
Use electrical tape on solder joint.
I did and I showed it too
I just can’t be sold on those solder-filled butt connectors. I can’t imagine that even in the most ideal conditions that they could ever be more resilient than a mediocre solder job with marine grade shrink tube. Also, I’ve never seen anyone use too much flux on a joint...
I've done them and then cut it apart to see how well the solder made it's way through and I'm good with what I saw.
awesome, loud farting exhausts leaks and the starter solenoid to motor supply wire green corroded as hell, coming very soon, no start, starter bad =p
to be honest, I'd have done both if it was mine and possibly the battery to starter terminal end too. past lessons of life. even thought I hate and will not own another crapsler anything ( exacept maybe a classic, pre-JUNKTRONICS)
danner it tells u F1 is on and F2 is off so i want to believe that the F keys below are the function keys for that function
it is still dumb the way they have it set up lol
3 place 👍
You're supposed to use a heat gun on those butt connectors. The lighter just burns them.
Auro (Autel) OtoSys (MaxiSys) woth the same exact operating system and layout.
Im hoping its even more generic as an Autel and you got it for a steal, cuz i'd buy one if its under $1,000 😂
You should sell some t-shirts, i would by a Danner T
I'll get to it one day. Thanks!
Gotta clean those wires and add some flux
👍👍👍🌷🌷
Just pulled a 08 Nissan Altima 3.5 cvt tranny I have a 08 maxima 3.5 coming in two days. Does it need reprogramming or just the clear the EEPROM in the tcm. From what I understand on Nissan the TCM doesn’t need to be touched except for the EEPROM can anyone who’s done a CVT swap confirm?
not sure man, sorry
Use a heat gun instead of an open flame.
not an option when you are laying in a parking lot outside :-)
just slide a piece of heat shrink tape over it
Those are the worst conectors to use... cold solder everytime.
I haven't decided yet. I understand the argument for sure
If