I used to enjoy tinkering with cars only because I used to drive pieces of junk that I had to Fix Or Repair Daily. Got tired of having to work under the dash or hood so I put away my tools and started buying only new cars.
Yes a someone commented sometimes a thermal fuse can blow but still you must change the motor but as we learned this one has a bad spot on its commutator and these typically aren't serviceable type of motors where everything is welded together and when you go to buy the motor you will find out that the entire housing comes with it as it's welded to its housing as well making it too costly of an item than you might expect
Nice one, I had the same problem in my first car which was a 1982 Mazda 323 (GLC) in 1992. Then dad took the blower motor apart, and did "something", probably just cleaned it and maybe adjusted the worn brushes, and it worked every time after that for as long as I had the car, and I had it 6,5 years.
I had an old 66 valiant that also had a dead spot on the fan. I carried a club and whenever it didn't work just reached over and gave it a smack usually without pulling over.
Carful with the brand of motor. I bought a blower from a manufacture called VDO. it was so loud and made a terrible sound. I put the factory one back in after cleaning up the brushes.
VDO is a top tier manufacturer. Of course, that's not to say that they may not have problems... And there can also be blower motors from Bosch, Continental, and so on. Of course, if you want OEM, you're going to go for ACDelco in the case of this Buick. However, it is possible for the ACDelco part to have been sourced from another company, including the likes of VDO, Bosch, Continental, etc.
It looks like to take the blower motor out, all you need to do is remove three, maybe four bolts. But it looks like there are just three bolts holding the blower motor assembly in place. You can do this yourself. Assuming you can order a replacement blower motor, it looks very easy to do the work.
@@12voltvids When dealing with a blower motor, awkward positioning is almost always going to be the case. That said, it is still relatively easy to access. Easily worth a case of beer or a bottle of Canadian whiskey.
@@12voltvids it would have done at full speed. Some of these use a fuse on the motor to limit the speed of the actual motor. I don't know what GM uses but this is what Nissan use, they fail quite a lot on older cars...
This is a multi speed motor and the control module just limits the current by dropping through a resistor network as far as I know. If voltage on the plug then the control module is OK. A tap on the motor and it starts proved that the motor is where the fault is. Likely a worn brush or stator in the motor. Shock it and it made the connection and probably will until it stops on the dead spot again.
More along my line of work. Thanks
I used to enjoy tinkering with cars only because I used to drive pieces of junk that I had to
Fix
Or
Repair
Daily.
Got tired of having to work under the dash or hood so I put away my tools and started buying only new cars.
@@12voltvids Not being able to pay a tech many moons ago was a big factor in my wrenching and car choices as well.
I know several fellows that are ASE certified and can't install a simple stereo system in an older car just basic hot and ground stuff. Amazing imo
Yes a someone commented sometimes a thermal fuse can blow but still you must change the motor but as we learned this one has a bad spot on its commutator and these typically aren't serviceable type of motors where everything is welded together and when you go to buy the motor you will find out that the entire housing comes with it as it's welded to its housing as well making it too costly of an item than you might expect
Thats what wreckers are for.
Nice one, I had the same problem in my first car which was a 1982 Mazda 323 (GLC) in 1992. Then dad took the blower motor apart, and did "something", probably just cleaned it and maybe adjusted the worn brushes, and it worked every time after that for as long as I had the car, and I had it 6,5 years.
I had an old 66 valiant that also had a dead spot on the fan. I carried a club and whenever it didn't work just reached over and gave it a smack usually without pulling over.
Interesting. I don't recall the last time you took a video of working on a vehicle. I like it.
Did a few on the 12 volt back on 2011.
Carful with the brand of motor. I bought a blower from a manufacture called VDO. it was so loud and made a terrible sound. I put the factory one back in after cleaning up the brushes.
VDO is a top tier manufacturer. Of course, that's not to say that they may not have problems... And there can also be blower motors from Bosch, Continental, and so on.
Of course, if you want OEM, you're going to go for ACDelco in the case of this Buick. However, it is possible for the ACDelco part to have been sourced from another company, including the likes of VDO, Bosch, Continental, etc.
Let the kid tuffin up and drive in the cold. Hehe
Do what I used to do with my Frord Falcon was wack the blower fan with a stick to get it working. Had a dead spot.
That is what I did
It looks like to take the blower motor out, all you need to do is remove three, maybe four bolts.
But it looks like there are just three bolts holding the blower motor assembly in place.
You can do this yourself. Assuming you can order a replacement blower motor, it looks very easy to do the work.
Yes 3 bolts. Awkward spot.
@@12voltvids When dealing with a blower motor, awkward positioning is almost always going to be the case.
That said, it is still relatively easy to access. Easily worth a case of beer or a bottle of Canadian whiskey.
Or a few bud light and I'm not referring to beer. After all this is canada. Can just walk into the store and buy it like beer.
That screwdriver can do it all. I need to get one of those. What is it called?
Picquik
The blower motor fuse has died, it is on the actual motor... Happens all the time!
If the fuse died it wouldn't have started up when I tapped it. More likely brushes worn.
@@12voltvids it would have done at full speed. Some of these use a fuse on the motor to limit the speed of the actual motor.
I don't know what GM uses but this is what Nissan use, they fail quite a lot on older cars...
This is a multi speed motor and the control module just limits the current by dropping through a resistor network as far as I know. If voltage on the plug then the control module is OK. A tap on the motor and it starts proved that the motor is where the fault is. Likely a worn brush or stator in the motor. Shock it and it made the connection and probably will until it stops on the dead spot again.
@@12voltvids Any chance of spraying some DeOxit to see if it helps ?