Can't believe what SLICK 50 did to my engine!!--Dry Crankcase Test!
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- Опубліковано 6 тра 2017
- In this video, I pre-treat one engine with SLICK 50 and then drain the oil and run both engines without any oil or additives in the crankcase. Which engine will "lock up" or seize first?
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Interesting note for you on this one - The formula for Slick 50 changed in the early 90s with the Quaker State acquisition of it. The original engineer actually sued them (Quaker State, then Penzoil, then Shell as the succession of owners of the brand) to make them quit using the original data and testimonials. The current formula (since the early 90's) that has none of the original formula at all. The original engineer actually sells the original formula under the name Xcelplus. It would be incredibly interesting to see a comparison of the two
Thanks for the video idea.
@@ProjectFarm be cool see an update video.
@@ProjectFarm yes, please follow up on this. I was also a believer and would love to see the comparison.
Does the current recipe have Teflon in it like the original?
@@bradsims1933 No according to Google
Lawn mowers must shudder when the realization hits them that they are going to
Project Farm
LOL! Thanks for commenting.
Oh that is so funny!
LOL
PETER PIPER good one!
It's like boxers fate in animal farm.
All the other animals were happy that he was being taken to the "hospital", then he just never came back.
Love the channel bub. Keep up the great work and you are by far the best comparison channel ever and the fact that you have no sponsors and use all your own money days alot about your channel. Look forward to more. Great job really impressed!!!
Thanks and you are welcome!
I used Slick 50 in my 1989 Ranger 2.3. At 110k the oil pickup in the pan broke clean off while on tbe interstate. I shut it down and took it to my mechanic/friend.
He called the next day and asked what oil I used. I told him Quaker State changed my oil but I used Slick 50.
The loss of oil pressure had spun a crank bearing but the cylinder walls still showed original crosshatch. He ground the crank and bolted it back together.
I drove it to 330k and sold it to the kid up the street in 2001. He is still driving it as a second vehicle with 495k and my mechanic/friend has used it since.
Worked well for me.
Thanks for sharing.
It’s cool to see you still respond and interact with a video from over 3 years ago! Keep the good work up
Thanks, will do.
can tell it was 4 years ago. Thats a compliment. He's driven
This guy has a true passion for what he does. Best brand comparison channel on YT
He is a true Gentleman!
That's a person who REALLY appreciates his supporters. Instead of just saying that he appreciates his subscribers once in a while at the beginning of a video, he actually proves it. Protect Farm is, without question, one of the best content creators on UA-cam.
This is why I never lend out my stuff.
haahaaaa cough haha
😄
Smart man. My pressure washer started leaking at the hose base fitting. Darn threads were tapped too small, so they only threaded the hose fitting 1-1/2 threads deep into the pump, and it broke out when the threads rusted. Workers at the factory were probably told to just thread them in enough, and not to crack pump housings. Why would they possibly want to go to the effort to tap the pumps a bit and ship a properly manufactured product? I threaded it back in a bit further but it's still leaking, and I'm not going any further and cracking the pump housing. I'll get around to properly tapping the female pump threads or reducing the male threads on the fitting some day. Read about a guy online with the same pressure washer. Guy was pissed when he lent it to his bro-in-law, who cracked the pump trying to tighten the same fitting to stop a leak. I'd bet that's happened a number of times with the same machine, with people who have no concept that you can't just keep cranking tapered fittings into cast parts.
LOL Nice :)
@@og1ie LMAO
There is a product out there that sticks to parts like you were saying in this video. I know you know this already but alot of people don't. It's Zinc. Under high temperature, Zinc melts and coats the parts especially on a worn out engine. That's what's in high mileage oil. I know my answer is kind of obvious to people who "TRULY KNOW" mechanics. Keep up with the great videos. They are Amazing and very informative. It is truly an honor to have someone, like you, to make these videos. Thank you for your time with all of this.
Thanks and you are welcome!
Thank you for your fair and honest testing
You are welcome!
I absolutely love this channel it's honestly why I'm up past bedtime every night sometimes I watch videos many times, I love the attention to detail.
Wow, thank you!
Love the detail also.
me too
As a young engineer I was suckered into the Slick 50 advertising. During a trip across Australia in the early 70's, my car ran low on oil and with no shops in sight, I thought not a problem, the Slick 50 will look after me. Wrong, engine seized. Later I ended up in a senior leadership position working for Castrol and regularly visited their R&D facility in the UK. Very impressive, as are all the major lubricant manufacturers including Castrol's main competitor Mobil. Key take away from nearly 50 years of working with different lubricants, is don't tinker with what some very smart people have developed into their products. If the oil doesn't work for you, find the grade/mix that does and don't try to home brew a fix.
I enjoyed reading your post. Thanks for commenting.
Nothing is a miracle product, but i completly disagree, ive torn down many high milage diesel and petrol engines here in australia that i or others have personally serviced and used slick 50 with.
We tested it for on a fleet of taxis, and trucks identical models and engines all driven by a mixture of drivers day and night. And the almost perfect 50percent of the fleet that had the slick 50 in it every service had noticbly less wear upon major rebuild time. Again, its not a magic miracle additive, but its backed by some serious lab r&d. One of the benifits of them not working for a sole company like castrol, is they can work with multiple companies across mutliple brands and not have preferential treatment from oem manufactures etc influencing final product. ie its too expensive make it cheaper for us.
Interesting, I have just commented on how Castrol Magnatec oil appears to have improved the cold starting on my Isuzu Trooper, it's the 3.0 diesel 2003 model which I've owned for 10 years.
An engineer who runs his engine low on oil, seizes it and then eventually ends up in a 'senior leadership position' at an Oil company. Sounds about right for any one in management.
Technically, he did say he was a student at that time but I get your drift. Anyone who runs an engine low on oil should not be surprised at a failure.
Here we see a young Project Farm in its natural habitat. Just kidding. I absolutely love every single one of your videos. Your testing has really help improve my purchases over the years. Every time I buy a tool I first check to see if you have a video on it. Keep up the great work!
Thanks, will do!
In 1994, I bought my first new vehicle. It was a 1994 Toyota pickup. It was stored all winter.
I towed a bass boat all over the country (eastern half). This was with a 4 cylinder engine.
I ran ONLY, straight 30 oil.
At 100,000 miles, I pulled the valve cover, to adjust the valves, and the engine looked absolutely brand new inside!
This can no longer be done, what with VVT screens and what not, but I couldn’t believe the power of a straight engine oil.
EXTREMELY low viscosity breakdown.
At 4k, it looked like I just put it in.
I miss old, reliable engines. 😔
Thanks for sharing.
I remember that commercial. :-) Shows our age. LOL
lol. Yes it does! You've got a great channel! Thanks for checking out the video!
If it’s the same commercial I remember seeing, the oil pan was removed and they had a continuous water spray on the crank/connecting rods.
I don’t remember the commercial lasting for hours😂it was a stunt and I assumed it lasted less then one second longer than they filmed it running without oil.
damn I remember that commercial too, when he mentioned it, that brought back memories.
electronicsNmore Is that the commercial where they went to the desert and drove a Viper around a track until it ran out of gas while they took the cylinder heads off another engine running on a stand and dumped sand onto the exposed valve train?
Have to tell you, I love the vacuum pump setup for removing the engine oil! I had to pause the movie to really look at that.
Thank you for the feedback!
i do the same thing with an empty windshield washer jug and a shop vac
I really like all of his testing set-ups. This one caught my attention as well... not making any mess while draining
I've got a pump the hooks up to my cordless drill. Works great. (I maintain 3 2011 Silverados, 1 Ford van, 1 gmc van, one dodge van, a Ford F550 dump truck and 2 tractors. I change the oil in all of them in about five hours with that "drill pump thing")
I, uh, may have screenshot it so I can copy it!
In an automotive engine the teflon particles can plug up the oil filter but you won't notice unless you cut the filter in half. Used in a small rotary plane engine, the filter got plugged with PTFE at a higher colder temp and stalled the motor. The plane landed safely. The US military will not use PTFE in any internal combustion engine. FTC alleges that Slick 50 neither coats engine parts with a layer of PTFE nor meets military specifications for motor oil additives.Try Wynns, BG, Redline, or a High ZDDP oil like Driven or PennGrade 1 Green HP Oil
Hey, love your videos, but i think your experiment for this video might just be flawed.The main benefits from using slick50 don't start showing up until after a somewhat long period of use. When its first used your suppose to basically skip an oil change to gain the best results. It works by Chemically bonding a protective layer to the surface of the metal, first by preparing the metal and then permacoating it. In your experiment, you did not run the motor for a long enough duration and temperature for the chemical process to occur . This might take hours and hours of operating time, but when the chemical reaction takes place, the motor will instantly run much more quiet, you will know when it happens.The dirtier the motor, the longer it takes to prep the surface. Another thing to consider is that the slick50 of today is not the same slick50 of the past due to a couple of law suits and patent infringements. The origional product is still currently available under the name Xcelplus, and the name slick50 today is just that, just a name on a product. But is it the product that John Bishop invented? FYI- I am not a mechanic, nor do i work for slick 50 or Xcelplus, just a nerd that cant spell.
Yep, 1984 was the year Slick 50 changed the formula. I remember it prior to that and it even looked different from the stuff they are using today. Frankly using Slick 50 now is kind of pointless as it is no different than regular oil.
I definitely agree with your comment. That wasn't enough time ran for the slick 50 to do what it is designed to do. As for the heat, slick 50 does what it says and the engine runs cooler. This demonstration even proves that. I would like to see this on 2 new identical motors and slick 50 time to do what it does. The motors in this video there was surely a difference in time they have been ran and how they were maintained. Flawed video for sure
Yes, something doesn't make sense. The Slick-50 engine wasn't even that hot.
Agree with all y'all!! I was shocked until I seen your comments!! Ty I will put a quart of it with 4 quarts of my regular oil when my daughter does my oil change.
does the now adays slick 50 work like that still?
City of Calgary AB Canada tested Slick 50 in its buses many years ago. The test result showed that initial operation proved good, but after a period of time, the Teflon in Slick 50 would crystalize and start to break off becoming an abrasive. Methinks that's not a good thing.
Thank you for the feedback
There's silicone in Slick 50? I thought it was just extra-thick oil to improve the viscosity of old worn-out motor oil.
@@deusexaethera I might be wrong, it might be Teflon. But the results stand.
I'm pretty sure it's not silicone. Silicone will destroy O2 sensors.
@@TickleFingers: That might be why Slick 50 had to reformulate when fuel injection became common. I honestly have no idea, just speculating.
You do a great service man, I really appreciate the time, MONEY and effort you put into this. Thank you very much for sharing (this applies to every video you produce)
Thank you!
Watching from Brisbane Australia. Love these videos. Always a thumbs up, thanks mate 👍🏼
Thanks and you are welcome!
A post failure tear down would have been interesting. What caused the failure of the engines?
agreed!
Ain't got no oil in it mmm hmm
@@stevenbrisson343 I get that reference. Fine job.
Sounds like slick 50 just siezed the pistion against the cylinder. And the conventional started a wicked knock before failure, could both be siezed yes. Tho ima take a shot in the dark n say conventional one melted/ground down the races/bearings vs slick 50 which seems to have siezed on more of a low oil situation. Only way to test that without pulling em apart is to add oil, flip mover on its side, push on blade while hitting with a hammer "freed way to many siezed mowers with that trick" and see running condition after. Both will be on their way out, but I'd take a chance in saying slick 50 is in better internal condition
@@mrmagdump9085 Good idea. One or both engines might even run after cooling down, without even breaking them free, and I am very interested in condition after running dry as this is actually more important than time running dry.
This man does good tests and he's to be commended.
Thank you!
I do agree.
mindtouchone he needs to be put in line for sainthood
yes he does some great test. ive tried to watch all of them when possible.
that slick 50 power steering additive worked great on my old buick electra. no noise or leaks after 1st use. my car said ahhhhh thank you. 👈🏁
Caught my lawnmower and his buds watching this video in the shed last halloween by the way
lol. Nice!
S T O P ! It Stephen King for lawn mowers
@@nik_kot Are you SURE DUN DUNNNnn
Wow! That is very surprising?, I have used slick 50 in the past and thought it was a good product.... like you I enjoyed the commercials and really liked the interactive sales display in the parts stores w/the gear drive comparison between slick 50 & regular oil.
Thanks for the all your information you provide. . Really like that you give each product a fair chance
You are welcome! Thanks for the feedback.
I’m old enough to remember when Slick 50 first came out. I’m pretty sure that it was more than 25 years ago. Keep up the good work.
It’s great to see how much you’ve grown since this one. You started a great thing. Keep having fun!
Thank you! Will do!
I’d say the slick 50 mower Had less run time then the other mower based on appearances and the mower with tighter clearances due to less wear will seize up before an Engine with lots of run time and loose bearing,piston to wall tolerances. i’m guessing that’s why the straight 30 wt Mower was able to run longer at much higher temps without welding it’s self together.The fact that the slick 50 engine ran cooler proves there was less friction. less heat=less friction less parasitic loss more efficient longer engine life. probably the only good way to do this test would be to buy two brand new engines break them in the same exact way and with same exact run time on each engine to rule out most of the variables you get on used engines. and then proceed. but that can be pretty expensive test. even then there are unknowns. The temperature test with the oil in the engines sold me on slick 50.
Thank you for the feedback
I agree with newer older motor theory.
I also would have like to see the newer engine operating temp with straight oil
@Joe Cool but the commercial showed an engine running dry after slick 50 treatment. He was just replicating what they said could be done with their product.
I agree. I don't think this was a very scientific experiment. Love project farm, but this one didn't make sense to me.
I put slick 50 in my car and once when the engine low oil light came on I immediately pulled over and my engine seized before I got to the side of the road.
Good luck.
I really appreciate the time and effort you put into all of your videos, thank you
You are welcome!
@@ProjectFarm Years ago I used a snake oil additive called Bitron. It did show improvement after two applications with regular oil but none with full synthetic in my vehicle.
I have been using "Duralube" for years now and swear by it. Very similar commercials years ago but I cannot afford to destroy engines to make a point or find out if it really works. My gas mileage increased 10% so I continue to use the product. I am impressed with all your comparisons and tests! They are well thought out and executed. Good information always!
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
Love your engine series. thanks for all the time you've spent testing for us. I appreciate it.
Spectt84, Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
Yes thanks, you're the man!!!
I’m sorry I didn’t see your message yet but I’ll let you yeah mom I love you and you have a great nice day from being JASON
For what it is worth, in 1980 I tested the original Slick 50 by EAR in my well worn Ford F100, with 77,000 miles on the original engine. I tuned up the truck to perfection and changed the oil and filter, minus one quart of oil. The engine ran beautifully, a lovely liquid purrrrrrrrrrr. I ran it a while, then added the final quart of oil with the Slick 50 in it (after SHAKING THE CAN well as per instructions.) Within only seconds that purring engine went to a quiet HUMMMMMMMMM! I could hardly hear that the engine was even running! I ran that original engine with ordinary oil changes up to 180,000 miles and sold it to a friend. He ran that original engine to over 200,000 miles until I lost track of it. This is why Slick 50 has believers!...………………………...elsullo
They probably don’t make slick 50 like they used too now ?
Sounds like a lot can attributed to a observant person keeping up with regular oil changes. That alone can net you many, many miles over the average guy who will tend to "let it ride" every so often.
Its a Ford with regular oil changes. Im not saying slick 50 isnt good but what i am saying is that a ford truck will run for ever if treated right
My question is did the slick 50 engine sieze or did it stop for any other reasons. It never cracked 300 degrees. It was at operating temperatures. I question this test without a teardown. The results are unexpected. The question that needs to be answered is why.
Invalid test sir.....
I wanna think it ran out of gas cause that didnt seem right
I agree...I'm thinking it ran out of gas, because the temp was low. A siezed engine would be hot.
I agree. There could be a number of reasons the engine quit. Just as there could be a number of reasons the earth is warming. real science isn’t just one and done. And it is because I say it is the engine should be torn down and the root cause of the failure should be determined without any doubt before saying Slick 50 doesn’t work
@@tonydamiani7353 Just remember this, the same people in the 70's who were screaming Global Cooling, Time, Newsweek, NY Times, Washington Post, are the same ones screaming Global warming today.
Sean the commercial's years ago, as you said I had confidence in the product, added it to every thing I owned that needed oil. I never had anything lock up on me, but I checked my oil all the time. I take it back. In the early 70's I locked the engine on a 1966 VW Squareback Sedan station wagon. $500 to fix it ( Father-in-law bailed us out). But I haven't done it since!
Great video, and great website! You do a superb job using careful experimentation to establish or refute the often dubious claims that manufacturers make about their products. A real public service.
Thank you!
I like how you turned that refrigerant vacuum in to way to suck out oil.
I need to put together a video on this. It's extremely handy for removing ATF is accidentally overfilling the transmission.
hahaha I didn't notice that. Just thought it was a mini compressor and was putting air into the case and blowing it out. Nice eye lol
potheads can identify.. works like a bong...
I want to see this conversion video. Do post a link. I use suction pump but those are small and slow for oil. Need a powerful one and i do have an exact similiar air vacum.
Blew my mind. At first I was like "Is he literally about to just suck that oil into his vacuum pump? You can do that??" Thankfully I saw his interesting jar attachment before i made any brash decisions.
You video's have certainly improved over the years with camera placement and how you conduct the experiments. 😁 I really enjoy you video's
Thanks so much!
I know that it died way faster (which was surprising) but what was even more surprising to me was to see the Slick50 engine running 150+ degrees cooler! There's something impressive going on either way. Assuming it is the Teflon in the Slick50.
Thanks for the feedback.
I agree. If it was running cooler it shouldn't have locked up first.
@jjano2320 if ever there was a project farm test that deserved to be revisited it would be this one
I agree. And just out of curiosity I wonder what the difference in the internal engine damage was.
@@jjano2320 No, it's the opposite, with a high heat the iron block was expanding while the aluminum piston wasn't, resulting in less friction. That's why it was able to run longer, even though the engine may be more damaged as a result.
You make the best videos. I could watch this stuff for hours. Thanks for all your time and effort!
Thank you!
I love the info you bring to so many, now subscribed! Thank You! God Bless!
Thanks for watching and subscribing!
As always I love your experiments sir, thank you.
Thanks so much!
Interesting. Yes, I too, remember the commercial claims and people who swore by the product. The cooling factor of the Slick product may lead to extended engine life, as heat is a major factor relating to part durability over time. Thanks for all your testing
You are welcome! Thanks for sharing.
I'd like to have seen the slick 50 engine run with just oil first and the temperatures measured. Then empty, add the slick 50 mix, run it and take temperatures. See if there would be a drop with the same engine.
The two engines might not run at the same temperature or dissipate heat differently.
Mr. Trustafox, Great point! I should have established a baseline for both engines! I'll do that next time. Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
Project Farm you really need to get two brand new identical engines and do baseline tests with them. but then most importantly run them both for a day straight with one having slick50 in it. because I'm sure I read that slick50 needs to be run in on the engine as over time it builds up a thin layer coating of a new compound that is where the real Val e of slick50 comes in I'm sure.
MrTrustafox, while we can't go back and do a control on these engines, it can easily be a test done on one engine to see a before and after to show that Slick 50 really does or doesn't lower the temperature. It can be a test by itself without a torture test.
Slick 50 engine running about 100 degrees cooler yet only lasted about 1/3 as long.........Something seems odd there.
Thank you
I too find the temperature variant perplexing considering the outcome. Though both mowers seem alike, there is no way that two used motors could be alike internally. While using two new motors seems too costly, perhaps two refurbished engines, where preexisting damage could be noted and repaired, or at least be certain that one engine didn't have a notable disadvantage at the outset.
I think there was a cylinder wall blemish, or a broken ring,or a blockage perhaps. As well, the warm up time, with the additive in place and prior to draining, could be extended to as much as three tanks of fuel, which at normal rpm should last three hours.(This would give the Slick-50 time to fill micro pits and cracks, and to bake a thin coating on the moving parts.)
But a very good and thoughtful test. You do a great service with these videos. Thanks 👍
Doesn't Slick 50 patent to claim it leaves a teflon coating? If that cures properly I could see even on a microscopic level heat exchange would change a great deal, but probably with the oil retaining that missing heat because it can't release it into the case. It has to go somewhere.
That isn’t the most accurate way to read temp. If you noticed that when the engine is walking across the floor the temp goes up and down by 200 deg as the temp gun scans across the head
@@HolidayArt fair point.
The tear down would be interesting to see.
The dino juice engine may have worn longer causing it to seize later.
The lower running temp does say a lot for Slick 50 though.
I really appreciate the time and effort you put into all of your videos
Thanks and you are welcome!
Yes, me too! Thanks for these experiments! Especially the one with the WD-40, PB-Blaster, Liquid Wrench test!👍
Thanks for the video. Militec should work a lot better under dry conditions (I did a timken test on it before pouring it into my engine).
In your video, Slick 50 seized up first probably this is because the teflon that is coated in between moving parts not only repels residual oil, but also expands, making engine clearance even tighter. However, with base oil available, Slick 50 should synergize.
The newer formula Slick 50 that he used does NOT contain PTFE Teflon. FACTS MATTER!
I remember those commercials when you can see the engine running without oil, But this results really surprised me. Good video thanks.
Thanks!
not the original formula from when they did those commercials.
was that the same commercial that they used a fire hose on a running engine ?
I remember one of those slick 50 ads using a 225 Chrysler engine, very deceptive. Those engines will run with a rod through the block for several hours... Can you try a similar experiment with LubeGuard?
I had a guy give me a tube of additive called CLM he said if I put a couple of table spoons of it with my oil change it would improve my gas mileage , I ran it in my 72 pinto that I would drive from Seattle to Bakersfield CA once a month it did improve my milage noticably , I ran across a small mud/rock slide on one of my trips we didn't have cell phones way back then and the oil pan was destroyed ,my buddy and I decided to drive the car as far as it would go hopefully to a rest area, it was late at night and we where in the mountains , we drove that pinto about 40 miles with the oil pan peeled open and the oil pickup dangling in mid air my brother came with a flat bed trailer and we hauled it home, put a new oil pan and pickup along with a exhaust pipe and that little car made many more trips between Seattle and Bakersfield. I lost the guys number for the CLM additive and never could find more but it really worked, I used the last bit of it a few years later I would buy some today if I knew where to get it anybody ever here of it
Your new videos have gotten so much better! Keep up the great work.
Thank you very much!
I'm in SHOCK!!! Me and my husband worked on cars and resold them. We always sworn by slick 50!! WOW!! I have to do an oil change on my car and was talking about slick 50. My daughter fixes my car now my husband and sons passed on and I'm getting up there. Grandma in shock from ] PA!! Ty dude!
Thanks for sharing.
Boy your energy level and expressiveness has gone off the charts over the years lol.... glad to see that!!!
Thanks!
You people bustin on him for his scientific level are funny. He's only giving you a reference, he'd need a huge sample of new engines but I don't see any of you givin him any cash to do such. So, shut up. 😊
Thanks for the positive comment. I'm saving up for new engines, but can't afford to go through too many of them. Thanks again!
Yes, this is a regular guy doing an "intuive" test. This is not Consumer Reports. Many testing procedures done on YT lack thorough scientific prep, nonetheless entertaining and informative.
Project Farm You got it. I like your videos, they're still very organic, you're not bought off like so many on the Tube. Do what you can, have fun(cuz when you stop having fun we will too),and those of us that matter will keep watchin. 😊
Maybe you should create a funding page so we can all send you a few $$$. So you don't have to pay for the motors all by yourself.
couldn't of said it better myself 👍👍
Okay, I used slick 50 in a 1985 Ford F-150 small V-8. About a year after I treated the engine with Slick 50 I was driving between Lewisville TX and Carrollton TX started hearing a sound that I had never heard before. After driving about 6 - 7 miles at 70 mph I noticed that the oil pressure Guage was on ZERO. I quickly pulled onto the shoulder of the highway. Pulled out the dipstick to check the oil. It was full and pretty clean oil. Had it towed to a Ford dealer to have it checked out. I assumed the bearings would all be bad in the engine. They dropped the oil pan, pulled off a couple of main bearing caps and checked the main bearings. They were fine... NO DAMAGE. They pulled off some of the rod bearing caps and they checked out OK. NO DAMAGE. They discovered that the oil pump failed and locked up. The oil pump was driven by a steel shaft driven by a gear on the camshaft. When the oil pump locked up the steel shaft twisted off, and that was the noise I was hearing. They replaced the oil pump and the shaft, and buttoned up things. I drove that truck several more years with no engine problems. I believe the Slick 50 saved that engine.
Impressive! Thank you!
Wow is all I got
Look up whatever happened to slick 50... very interesting
Nah. Slick 50 was what killed your oil pump. LUCK is what saved your engine.
@@robertgantry2118 Agree 100%. No evidence here that Slick50 had any effect on saving the Ford engine. I remember driving a Honda about 20 miles to the junkyard with no oil pump. No problems.
All the thing you do are interesting, and very informative, thank you
You are welcome!
I didn't even know you had videos this far back...OG awesomeness!
Thanks for watching!
The SAE 30 engine was running slightly warmer during the initial testing because the hot exhaust from the Slick 30 engine was being expelled directly into the intake of the SAE 30 engine.
Good catch.. wonder if it really made a difference?
Avnett definitely would make a huge difference
source=im a.s.e. certified in engine rebuild/diagnostics
Great point! Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
Saw that too. Would have been a better comparison if BOTH were run on straight SAE 30 first. No way to know if the temps actually dropped with adding the slick 50.
w108jpw I came here to say exactly this!
I just found a brand new favorite channel! This is the kind of stuff I would have done and I would’ve got in trouble for back in the day!
ddoyle11 I just found this channel the other day. I really enjoy it. He does a great job keeping the test as fair as possible!
Years ago I bought Slick 50 after being hooked by their ad, and always wondered if it really helped. So years later I now know thanks to Project Farm. And who said "A sucker is born every minute" was also proven correct today.
You are welcome!
Ahhh the days of when he didn't go out and just get a new mower or engine,how far we've come. Great work my man,seen many but not this one,hope to see you on here awile longer.
Thanks, will do!
I rarely comment on videos due to peoples ignorance on here but you produce good content. Definitely subscribing!
Thank you very much!
it's people's, not peoples
case in point
What I love most about this channel, you do things many of us only dream of doing.
Thank you very much!
Ikr??? It didn't cost me a penny to watch 2 Small Engines ruined right in front of my face do test something that I would question myself
Awesome video, keep up the good work.👍
Thanks, will do!
@@ProjectFarm I'm curious about something, I recently watched a video of yours about burning brake parts cleaner in an engine. I was wondering if you can do the same with transmission fluid and maybe power steering fluid since gas prices are so high right now.
I came across your channel within the last couple years. I commented here and there. I think you provide great service and the integrity with which you perform that service is unparalleled by any other testers I have seen. So bravo to you sir!
To answer your questions:
No I would not consider using slick 50.
Is there something better than slick 50? Yeah it's Called slicks 60 the 60 stands for 60 slick words that the sales people are using to try and get folks to buy their product.. OK, I just made that up.
I wish there was someway I could help you Help others.
Thanks! Thanks for the feedback.
Watching this in 2019. He's grow a lot since. But he still replies to individual comments, simply amazing!
Thank you very much!
@@ProjectFarm military grade integrity ;)
I know it is just steel and aluminum. But, it still makes me sad.
I'm sure he freed them up at some point
Seriously I am very sad when I see a machine mistreated but thought that I was the only person.
Race cars are beaten do death. This is the life high performance engines.
@@scottjones7279 same im happy im not the only one
I love these types of tests. Slick50, when they first came out was a good product. Probably the best at its inception but fast forward several years later, they are the equivalent of most products on the store shelves with numerous ones outperforming them. Restore did the same and while I still use them at times, they are not as good as they were. Seems like when they introduce a product, it's a super high-quality performance level producer and after establishing a clientele, they incrementally sell a weaker product while charging more. Great test.
Btw, where both these engines apples to apples condition? Compression? Rpm? Etc.
I was beginning my career as a small engine tech in the 90s. At a briggs and stratton service school we discussed the whole slick 50 thing. They started a 3.5 hp briggs engine and let it run without oil. It ran for a few minutes before it was shut off. The engineers told us that the very nature of how the engine was built actually allowed it to run with no oil for a fair amount of time.
Yeah, they have self lubricating bronze bushings.
I really like this guy, he put out some really good content. My wife and I love this guy's videos we watch everyone he uploads. Keep it up man, now this is some UA-cam. God bless you and your family from mine to yours
Thank you for the feedback!
Prolong will do what your trying to show with engine oil drained out there's a video of motor with no pan or valve covers running and they even pour sand in the heads while it runs they even show bearings on a press treated with all brands of oil and prolong all the bearings sized up before Prolong check it out I use it and its saved me many times
Worrying about mixing it up really good when the engine running would mix it up like a blender!
Sometimes the engine lasts longer because it runs cooler. The long term affect of hot engines may be a factor of longevity. Yes, both froze up, but in the long run, maybe your slick 50 kept your engines cooler and giving it more life over all. Also, how long did you run the engines before you drained it? Do you know how long the Slick 50 testers ran their engine before they drained it? Maybe if you ran your engines with the oils for an hour or so, maybe a 24 hour run, that would help the chemicals in the Slick 50 bond better to the metal parts making it last longer.
Very interesting projects! Thanks.
You are welcome!
Great test. This, as you already know, is not the classic or Original Slick 50 with the PTFE additive in it. The Original we all remember shaking the H out of the bottle, and you couldn't see through the oil. Now on the original commercial, the small engine only used the bottle of Slick 50 with nothing or more oil added. Then it was drained and ran for hours. The product you've used is the Slick 50 'Recharged' and you can see right through that stuff. When I was stationed in Alaska in the early '80s I ran Slick 50 in all my engines, awesome product. I had a friend that had a Ford 4X4 P/U and on the way to Fairbanks AK (he also ran Slick 50) his engine started making a strange rattling noise, all I could hear was what I thought was the rocker arms (maybe), so we pulled over to an auto parts store. No oil on the dipstick. Put a quart in, still nothing on the stick, another quart and nothing! A 3rd quart in and just barely on the tip of the stick, 4th quart and good. Started the truck and the noise was gone and No Damage to the engine. He was one lucky truck owner. Thank goodness he had used that Original Slick 50. And no... he wasn't trying to test how good the Slick 50 was. I'd love to have a case of the 1980's original Slick 50.
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
First, I really enjoy your channel. Thank you! Second, I saw independent reviews on "Bestline engine treatment" and was sold on it. I added a small amount into a Toro that leaked oil but ran well. The day I added it, about 20 minutes into mowing my lawn, the engine started revving faster and faster....then...locked up. I was hoping to help the mower last longer but destroyed it instead. Next test you do on engine lubricants, please include Bestline.
A small amount of any additive isn't going to make your rev faster and faster. The carb blade would HAVE to open more in order for the engine to rev faster.
I just recently discovered your channel and I love it! I know I'm late to the game, but I would live to see you test the Prolong engine additive. Keep up the good work! Cheers!
Welcome! Thanks for the video idea.
GREAT review!
Thanks!
I recently saw an interview with John Bishop, the original inventer of Slick 50, and he said that the product being sold today is not the same as the original. So maybe the forever running engine was the real deal.
My personal experience with the old version of Slick-50 is that it saved my engine when the water pump failed 40km from home and I drove the car, at high speed, to buy a replacement, then to home for fitting and then drove it for many years afterwards without any issues. Yes, the car did boil the water dry to the extent that the temperature gauge dropped back to zero, yes there was steam coming from under the bonnet, yes I did refill the radiator (three times) and lost all the water again. But no, the engine never nipped up and always started even after turning the motor off when the water was lost.
I now buy the replacement product Xcelplus and it goes in every engine I have.
My brother-in-law wrote that car off by running off the road and hitting a strainer post, the engine was still fine.
@Tony HD I don't know! I'm just stating what the inventor said in an interview.
I remember those Slick50 adds too! A great experiment and a very surprising outcome. Keep up the good work :-)
Thanks, will do!
See if you can revive the slick 50 engine by forcibly cranking it and adding oil back to it.
Then try to do the same to the regular plain oil engine.
See if the slick 50 simply made the engine slow down quicker with less damage.
DO IT!!!!!!
I think the slick 50 engine MIGHT BE REVIVABLE
It sounded much smoother when it died than when the regular plain-oil engine died.
Please try it!!!!!!!
realflow100 Even if he can free it up, it will be scrap. The only thing that slowed it down was metal on metal friction against the bearings..which will now be worn so badly it will knock like crazy
I agree...both engines are ruined. Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
Did you try to dummy-crank the engine just to see what would happen?
I've seen a lot of "seized" lawnmowers start up after they've cooled down and continue running for a good while. sometimes even right after it seized it was able to be started back up.
it might just of need to cool down on the slick 50 one from piston expansion causing it to press so tightly on the cylinder walls that it seized temporarily. you never know. it could be completely free when you try to crank it. as if nothing was wrong. or it could be locked solid.. about 50/50 chance of either to be honest.
Good thoughts. BUT it still stopped sooner, for what it's worth.
realflow100 b
Great video! That's a throw back video just popped up in my feed!
Great test! Can't believe you're still monitoring and responding to your videos! Brilliant..
Anyhow I watched the STP one this morning and Just watched this Slick 50 one now! BOTH CLEARLY full of crap product wise! Lol 😂🤦🏻
All those years when I was a kid I saw those stickers for STP and Slick 50 here in England and even remember seeing product placement in films like Saturday Night Fever which was hilarious! Anyhow point being just shows that these products make all sorts of claims and totally unfounded! Ridiculous really when you think about it! They're basically ripping people off!
I've never used either product thankfully! I got 2 BMW 3 series Turbo Diesels and they're not to be messed with outside of the spec for oil, fully synthetic LL-04 5w30 or 0w30 or 5w40 hot climates off the top of my head, bit I go with 5w30 best oil I can get like Petronas or Castrol or Shell Helix and change it about half to 2/3rds(MAX) the recommended interval!
For lawnmowers I just put whatever the cheapest fully synthetic is in those. 2 strokes strimmers etc, generally whatever is on the shelf and add a bit more than the usual ratio, not enough to smoke but enough that I know it ain't going to burn out/risk any wear damage more than has to be given the nature of the engines..
Your channel is by far THE GO-TO testing channel on UA-cam/internet! Well done and keep up the great work!
Cheers from London England 👍😎🏴
Thanks and you are welcome!
My experience was with a 1979 Mustang 2.3 liter, with a religious 30K oil change.
So, after OVER 600K+ actual miles the original engine was still strong. Of course (FORD) the auto - over the next 15 years - it consumed more than 5 batteries, and 3 starters along with 2 alternators. Car engine with Slick 50 additive to the crankcase added x2 per year was still running well when the 2nd transmission ended its life. Impressed (to this day) with Slick 50. Period.
Doesn't matter to me whether people use it or not, there is just more for me!
Thanks for sharing.
Like someone else commented, Slick 50 is not the same as 25 years ago.You should do another test with Xcel Plus, the original formula.That would be interesting!
@Ab Ba From an engineering perspective, that isn't possible.
@@68404 - What a kill joy! Placebo effect?
It was always useless, rough lumps of PTFE do nothing to help, and can block important oilways.
Good point. I don't know how much zinc original Slick50 had in it, but zinc kills cats that's why modern oil has very little. Maybe modern Slick50 is the same?
10W30 full synthetique. I've been using in my lawn mower tractor for more than 15years, and except topping the engine once in a while, never had problems..
Yep, agree.
I use 0w40 full synthetic (Mercedes formula) in my riding mower (B/S V-twin 22hp) and after 2 years oil is still golden. I also drop in a few ounces of Liqui-Moly anti-friction additive (looks like liquid graphite). No problems at all, good running engine.
I would like to say hands down best content of any Channel like this. The exhaust from the lawn mower blowing on the other may that have had an effect on the temperature of the other mower?
The engines I saw them running all that time ago were slant 6 Chrysler engines. Dad said they, like a model T engine, had so many oil dams in the block that they restrained some oil and it slowly trickled down and kept the engine oiled for some time. The engine we saw was never ran at long intervals, but minutes at a time, and it would be a good gopher smoking machine it burned so much oil. Probably been twenty ish years since I've seen that display. In the meantime a friend of my mothers swore that STP treatment was far superior to Slick 50.
When some dealers were selling Ford Model T cars, that's a similar stunt. They'd drain the oil and replace the plug. After yacking for some time spreading the bull, the rest of the oil made it to the pan so it could hit the splashers and lube the engine.
Great video as usual.
Thanks!
Your videos are great. Keep up the good work!
Thank you for the positive feedback!
I remember that old infomercial! Love your channel bud!
Thanks!
Love your channel from queensland Australia 💯💯💯
Thanks so much!
Most helpful videos on youtube right here^
Thanks!
Prolong works great especially with high performance brushless motors, I've personally tested it on 45,000 rpm ducted fan jet motors, and have made test on the exact same engines with a substantial difference in the standard oil and the prolonged engines and have found it continues to work great without any seizure issues
Great feedback. Thank you
Yes try prolong!
In 1984 I was given an old Volvo that hadn’t ran in 5 years. I got it home and worked on it got it running, I had just received a box of prolong oil additives from the manufacturer I found an add in hot rod magazine looking for people to test prolong. The old Volvo had 105,000 miles on it I ran it up to operating temp pulled the plugs and ran a compression test and wrote the numbers down. Drains the oil added new along with the recommended amount of prolong. I drove it around for a few days to get some miles on the engine and the after I got it up to operating temp I pulled the plugs and ran a compression test to my surprise prolong actually did increase the compression in each cylinder by several pounds.
Try prolong
I raced cars for 12 years and always used 25% Lucas oil stabilizer. I never had an engine failure. That would be a good "oil" to test. Thanks much for a great video.
Thank you!
You have raced and have not had an engine failure in 12 years, you obviously have not heavily tuned the engine because anybody that has raced for 12 years with a highly tuned engine is going to have an engine once awhile.
Yes try the Lucas Oil Treatment
John L what part of engine oil is unstable and requires an “oil stabilizer”
A fool and his money are soon parted.
Lucas oil stabilizer is nothing but a non additized bright single grade gear lube.
Using it does nothing other than dilute the additive package science has deemed beneficial and thickens the sump load.
If you want thicker oil just buy a heavier grade. Lucas is utter garbage.
Everett Morash now you know you could have said all that without being a douche, right?
I don't need a response. Just want you to know I appreciate what you're doing. I was a professional auto mechanic, now a machinist for international company. Love what you're doing friend. subscribed for long time. Keep up the good work Brother!
Thanks, will do!
I bought a brand new 1993 Ford Bronco with the 351 Windsor motor. I did use Slick 50 after 1 year of buying the vehicle. I did change my oil around 5000 miles increments and would use slick 50 2 sometimes 3 in a years time. Vehicle got me 442000 miles of usage before it started to use oil. I still use it today and I think it does help engines last longer. It has also helped the camchatter in my 2018 ecoboost motor. Did not stop it but reduced some of the noise.
Thanks for sharing.
My dad always had a saying about Slick 50. Its a slick way to make 50 bucks. I honestly believe there was a lot of truth to what he said.
Adam, LOL! Our dad's are very wise! Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
In 1984 Slick 50 lost the right to sell the original product. They had to make their own lubricant and it does not meet any of the original specifications of original formula. If you want to try the original formula it is only available branded as Xcelplus.
In the '90 there was a product that competed with slick 50. It was call Prolong, it would be nice to try that one out if it still available!
There was also Dura Lube back then too and it is still around. If Prolong isn't available then Dura Lube would be a good alternative for a head to head. Whichever new one is endorsed by some racing driver (can't remember who, but I think it's one of the Formula 1 Schumachers), would not be a fair test, cause that stuff is garbage. It's just mineral oil and a total scam.
Bill Does Stuff. Another products from 80's was MolySlip.
I was always told if you use a good quality oil that’s all you need.
Thanks for sharing.
And I was told that making the oil changes on time with good oil
Clearly you haven't seen the motorkote oil additive episode.
@@ProjectFarm this channel sucks... generic answers all over the place... robots? AI? or dont give af?
@@ProjectFarm On my '72 350's I use to use slick 50, had no issues, I now use Bestline after online research, and I saw your video comparison also on Bestline. I have 3 - '72 Monte Carlos, and one is a 402. I use Penzoil (1st choice) 10-30, and 2nd choice is Quaker State, same velocity. But I don't race the cars, as they are everyday ones for me. 2 are backups just incase daily goes down...FYI. Sure enjoyed your Ethonyl gas video.
Thanks for the quick reply! My take away is slick 50 runs cooler less friction so if your keep the engine or what it’s attached to for a long time perhaps it pays off
It doesnt pay off. It is useless and even damaging .
Thank you for the video.
You are welcome!
2 potential issues with the test. First, it looked like you got almost all of the oil out of the SLICK 50 engine and you only got 80% of the oil out of the other engine; having 20% oil is better than 0% oil. Second, SLICK 50 is supposed to have an initial application period that was 5000 miles for cars, which is probably around 200 hours; unless you did that in the lawnmowers, the teflon didn't actually get applied to the engine.
I used SLICK 50 for a long time in one car; I don't know how it affected engine wear but it did improve gas mileage by 1-2 mpg.
Thank you for the feedback
@@ProjectFarm Based on the information in the video shared by Glo Right a few weeks ago, the current "Slick 50" product is not the original formula for which we recall those engines running after being drained. That original formula is now sold under the brand Xcelplus.
@@jebucha your correct! My friends dad buys it in the original formula 5 gallons at a time from a guy who has a bunch of drums he's been hoarding. He says whatever they took out made the new stuff garbage.
Slick 50 requires repeated run cycles to build up and deposit it's proprietary anti friction surface. Run an engine for 20 hours on Slick, Then repeat the tests.
Not sure about the "NEW" Slick 50. I used to use the slick 50 from 30+ years ago, and it was a treatment, not just an oil additive.
First thing that was done back then was to shake the can for a bit to suspend the material in the oil, as it was just a carrier of the actual product. Then after adding to a fresh oil change you had to use the motor for about 30 minutes to coat all the frictional surfaces.
Maybe the fact that Slick 50 called for 10%, and the test was done with 20% bared out in the result. More is not always better.
Yes. I believe the slick 50 still is a good product. If for no other reason than it did seem to reduce friction enough to cause the motor to run cooler = Longer Engine Life.
Great Video +++
Did you examine the internals of both engines before the test to verify that wear in both were comparable?
BTW, I enjoy your content, keep up the good work!
I was wondering that, too. Maybe one motor was closer to the end of its lifespan..
Back in the 1980's I had a 1983 Ford F150. I treated it with Slick 50 as the directions told me. It was just one quart of slick 50 with 4 quarts of regular motor oil. About a year after treating the engine with slick 50, I was driving down I-35 toward Dallas. I heard a different sound from the engine, and probably drove about 5 minutes before noticing the oil pressure was zero. It was full of oil.
After having it towed to a Ford dealer and having the engine checked for damage I was told that the crankshaft, and rod bearings were not damages at all. The oil pump sized up and a hexagon shaped shaft that drove the oil pump from the camshaft had twisted off. They replaced the oil pump and the broken shaft, and I drove that truck for several more years with no problens.
Thanks for sharing.
The results are strange to me. The Slick 50 engine was running cooler, which would imply less friction is being made, yet it died much sooner. Leaves me scratching my head.
Matt I think it had to do with an aspect not related to the lack of oil. I think that engine had an issue with the carburetor. Looks like a mower that was scarcely used and sold after the death of a parent. "Old persons". When they usually sit for long periods of time without use with the newer ethanol laced gasoline they often get filthy with sediment and oxides from the ethanol. Probably got it cheap at an estate sale. Used maybe 5 times a year to mow for 15 minutes at a time.
I’m so glad I found this guy. I learn so much from him. I would like testing from all the top 4 oils that you find at Walmart
I will change my oil before it gets ugly (not over 5 to 6000 miles) but I started using Amsoil due to Project Farms testing. I'm hoping the extra protection preserves my 15 year old timing chain and other vital parts which are in great shape at the moment. Point is, he does some great real world testing in a very unbiased fashion and I can trust the results.
Wal-mart really needs to be called by its correct name "𝑾𝒂𝒍𝒍𝒚 𝑾𝒐𝒓𝒍𝒅"
I too remember Slick 50. Cool test!
Thanks!
I started using Slick 50 in my 1985 Honda hatchback when I lived in Arizona. It definitely ran cooler according to the engine temp. gauge. Always good when the ambient temp. is above 100°F!
Thanks for sharing.