I did mine in n scale to an Old Dutch Cleanser box car. Seemed appropriate. I used 4 1/4” neodymium cube magnets as both the weights for the pad and also they are the retainers that hold the nails in place when picked up.
I use galvanized roofing nails and I glue them with a hot glue gun. It works pretty slick. I generally have a track cleaning car behind the engine in every train. It works really well. Every once in a while I sand the hardboard to clean it up.
I use mineral spirits -- they have no water content at all. Then, I apply No-OX ID 'A Special'. It prevents oxidation, and fills the micro scratches, greatly improving conductivity. And, after it's applied, track needs little to no cleaning, except light dust removal (shame on you for not covering your layout when not in use... 😉).
@@TheDCCGuy All it takes is a very light coating with your finger, then wipe it down with a no-lint cloth. Your friend probably applied too much. Maybe check out Ron's Trains 'n Things. That's where I learned it... 😀
Larry, I enjoy most of your videos. Recently I've watched several videos that said not too use any type of alcohol because they are non-conductive and the small amount of water it contains can leave a rust residue on the track surface. What is your take on that. A couple of months ago I started using mineral spirit and then applied by finger a very small amount of No-Ox-Id "A Special ". Then lightly rub it down using a nylon cloth. My locamotives have ran the best they have since I bought them. Always informative videos. Thanks.
Consider that in order to have rust, which by most definitions is iron oxide, you have to have iron in the rails. Given that most rails today are nickel silver, which is an alloy of 60% copper, 20% nickel, and 20% zinc, then it is impossible to have rust. Consequently I would say that anyone who says these rails rust doesn’t know what they are talking about. As for No-Ox-Id, I have a friend who tried it on his layout and then spent a month cleaning it off the rails and wheels because it created so many issues. According to their MSDS it is a grease with about 8% mineral spirits. With an almost 2% helix on my layout I am not about to put grease on my rails so good luck with yours. I do have an alternative solution given me by Larry Maier of DCC Specialties that I will cover in a future video, as soon as I have given it a test.
One of God's greatest gifts....Isopropyl alcohol.....cleans just about everything and anything. I like the 91%....Slick...leave it to the mighty John Allen...
@@TheDCCGuy LOL. I can't find it -not- like that. Older Peg board has it but not ideal to get a piece for this application. Even looked a the cheap clip boards.
What type of tempered hardboard do you use for the cleaning pad? I’m in the process of building one of these cars and just need a little more info on the board type. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Bobby Wright
Just plain old tempered hardboard, ask for it at the local hardware or lumber yard. Most sell it in 4’ x 8’ sheets and also in smaller sizes. See if they have any scrap left over from damaged boards they will sell cheap or give you.
The DCC Guy thank you I will go to Lowe’s and pick a piece up, and by the way I enjoy all of your videos. Very informative especially for somebody like myself who is only two years into the Hobby with a 10 x 12 switching layout
I like your track cleaner car, but had 2 questions. When you mention hardboard are you referring to Masonite or a type of compressed fiber board? Also, wouldn't some softer pad (felt or anything else) pick up and/or clean the track better than a hard surface? Thanks, Tom
This is a great idea and super easy. Would you recommend bonding a super fine piece of sandpaper (6000 grit) or applying a dab of fine polish or is just the piece of bare wood sufficient?
NEVER use sandpaper on your rails, it will just create gouges and scratches that will attract and hold grease and oil which then attract dirt and other gunk. Also the pad is not wood it is Masonite. It will gently scrub your rails and you can just sand it clean when it needs it.
@@TheDCCGuy Thanks Larry, it works great. My rails are nice and shiny again. I had my doubts without attaching some kind of pad and solvent but just running it dry gently polishes the tracks just fine.
Are you modeling US prototypes or European? If US then avoid Athearn as they mostly have the long steel weights. Bowser seem to favor the weights at the ends and that is what I used. Of course you can remove the long steel weights, cut them into sections, and glue them into the cars placing them at the ends.
The simple ideas are always the best. Thanks Larry.
What a cool inexpensive way to make a track cleaning car.That is on my to do list.👍🇬🇧
I did mine in n scale to an Old Dutch Cleanser box car. Seemed appropriate.
I used 4 1/4” neodymium cube magnets as both the weights for the pad and also they are the retainers that hold the nails in place when picked up.
I use galvanized roofing nails and I glue them with a hot glue gun. It works pretty slick. I generally have a track cleaning car behind the engine in every train. It works really well. Every once in a while I sand the hardboard to clean it up.
Using the sandpaper is a great idea, awesome tips on assembling the ca. thanks for the help!
been doing this for years works great its easy clean and no mess thanks for sharing
I saw this at John's house, he would not let a train depart w/o at least one of these cars in the consist. Been using them for 45 years.
I use mineral spirits -- they have no water content at all. Then, I apply No-OX ID 'A Special'. It prevents oxidation, and fills the micro scratches, greatly improving conductivity. And, after it's applied, track needs little to no cleaning, except light dust removal (shame on you for not covering your layout when not in use... 😉).
A good friend used No-Ox-Id on his layout. Made a huge mess-he had to clean every rail and wheel on the layout. It’s a grease, not going to go there!
@@TheDCCGuy All it takes is a very light coating with your finger, then wipe it down with a no-lint cloth. Your friend probably applied too much. Maybe check out Ron's Trains 'n Things. That's where I learned it... 😀
GUN SCRUBER. removes all dirt and leaves no residue behind
I wouldn't use "Goo Gone" to clean track, as I use it to melt the paint off of shells prior to re-painting for the "Quail Valley.
What a fantastic idea
I did too.
Thank you very much, 👍👍
Larry, I enjoy most of your videos. Recently I've watched several videos that said not too use any type of alcohol because they are non-conductive and the small amount of water it contains can leave a rust residue on the track surface. What is your take on that. A couple of months ago I started using mineral spirit and then applied by finger a very small amount of No-Ox-Id "A Special ". Then lightly rub it down using a nylon cloth. My locamotives have ran the best they have since I bought them. Always informative videos. Thanks.
Consider that in order to have rust, which by most definitions is iron oxide, you have to have iron in the rails. Given that most rails today are nickel silver, which is an alloy of 60% copper, 20% nickel, and 20% zinc, then it is impossible to have rust. Consequently I would say that anyone who says these rails rust doesn’t know what they are talking about. As for No-Ox-Id, I have a friend who tried it on his layout and then spent a month cleaning it off the rails and wheels because it created so many issues. According to their MSDS it is a grease with about 8% mineral spirits. With an almost 2% helix on my layout I am not about to put grease on my rails so good luck with yours. I do have an alternative solution given me by Larry Maier of DCC Specialties that I will cover in a future video, as soon as I have given it a test.
I have several of these and regularly run them around my layout. They work great!
I like this tip I will use it with a few mods thank you!
Got a little suspenseful when it looked like you were gonna drill a hole in your hand
Very clever. Thanks!
One of God's greatest gifts....Isopropyl alcohol.....cleans just about everything and anything. I like the 91%....Slick...leave it to the mighty John Allen...
Amen!
i use goo gone to clenn the wheels off my layout
Make sure to followup with alcohol or something to get the goo gone off or it will leave a sticky residue.
@@TheDCCGuy great idea thanks
Can't find Masonite with the "rough side" anywhere. All the tempered hardboard is smooth on both sides.
Odd, I’ve never seen any with smooth surfaces on both sides!
@@TheDCCGuy LOL. I can't find it -not- like that. Older Peg board has it but not ideal to get a piece for this application. Even looked a the cheap clip boards.
I get mine at Lowes or Home Depot.
I just built 3 of these. I used pegboard. Is that the same as Masonite?
Close enough.
@@TheDCCGuy thanks!
I saw this done with Balsa wood instead of hardwood in a video.
Buy a Yard Stick and cut it up.
That would certainly work, give it a try.
Would be interesting to make one that feeds through with isopropanol, and that slightly vibrates the pad.
I think Tonys Trains sells one like that but you need deep pockets for it. Pretty hard to build for an individual hobbyist.
@@TheDCCGuy Challenge accepted! I’ll see what I can do 😅
What type of tempered hardboard do you use for the cleaning pad? I’m in the process of building one of these cars and just need a little more info on the board type. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Bobby Wright
Just plain old tempered hardboard, ask for it at the local hardware or lumber yard. Most sell it in 4’ x 8’ sheets and also in smaller sizes. See if they have any scrap left over from damaged boards they will sell cheap or give you.
The DCC Guy thank you I will go to Lowe’s and pick a piece up, and by the way I enjoy all of your videos. Very informative especially for somebody like myself who is only two years into the Hobby with a 10 x 12 switching layout
I like your track cleaner car, but had 2 questions. When you mention hardboard are you referring to Masonite or a type of compressed fiber board? Also, wouldn't some softer pad (felt or anything else) pick up and/or clean the track better than a hard surface? Thanks, Tom
Masonite is a trade name for hardboard. This design has worked for about 70 years so is time tested.
Great tip thanks
How about adding weight to the floats would it be a plus
I have heard if folks slipping nuts on the nails for added weight but I feel they should be free to float over rails and frogs, etc.
I usually hit glue a couple of pennies on mine.😊
This is a great idea and super easy. Would you recommend bonding a super fine piece of sandpaper (6000 grit) or applying a dab of fine polish or is just the piece of bare wood sufficient?
NEVER use sandpaper on your rails, it will just create gouges and scratches that will attract and hold grease and oil which then attract dirt and other gunk. Also the pad is not wood it is Masonite. It will gently scrub your rails and you can just sand it clean when it needs it.
@@TheDCCGuy Thanks Larry, it works great. My rails are nice and shiny again. I had my doubts without attaching some kind of pad and solvent but just running it dry gently polishes the tracks just fine.
Is hardboard the same thing as Masonite? I would reckon it is......... Maybe around 1/4" thick?
Yes, and I think I used 1/8” from Lowes. Put the rough side down.
great video where did you get the box cars, cant seem to find any with weights on end that hardboard want scratch the track thanks
Those are Bowser round roof boxcars.
Can I use this idea on any scale or trains
Should work.
I am a Maerklin guy venturing out into DC. What cars you suggested have weights at their ends please?
Are you modeling US prototypes or European? If US then avoid Athearn as they mostly have the long steel weights. Bowser seem to favor the weights at the ends and that is what I used. Of course you can remove the long steel weights, cut them into sections, and glue them into the cars placing them at the ends.
What is hardboard? Masonite?
Yes.