Just came across this and tried it on my own layout, everything runs so smoothly now no dead spots, no sound cutting out, and i couldn't be happier 😊 thanks for sharing this
Thats great news! I'm glad you got the desired results and thanks for watching and letting me know! I appreciate the feedback and love seeing layouts work better. Cheers Gregg.
Thank you Ivan! I'm all for manners , but you can stick your PC..LOL. Glad you enjoyed the video! If you're sick of PC .you'll love Lord Stan. Cheers Gregg.
As a 63 year old beginner in the US, this is great info. I really appreciate it. I'll have to watch all your other videos. I'm absorbing all the information that I can. I am building a railroad for my 6 year old grandson. We went to a model railroad museum and his eyes were as big as plates! So......here I am. :) Thank you! Greg in Tennessee, US
Hi Greg and welcome to the hobby! You have a lot to learn , so it will keep you busy for the next 63 years!! I really think you're building it for you .....as well as your grandson..LOL. I hope you enjoy the videos and thank you for watching. Gregg
Worked like a charm. THANK YOU! My tracks turned blackish but even my most stubborn locomotive that I've had in boxes for years run like champs. Maybe the best model railroad tip I've seen on UA-cam.
It is refreshing hearing from someone who understands electronics and their nature in their natural form. Good job great advice keep up the great work and happy railroading. Tim
A few years ago you recommended Goo Gone, I've used Goo Gone ever since in my heavy, brass, track cleaner and it has been great, even the loco's and rolling stocks wheels get cleaned.
Hi Sam , that wasn't me I'm afraid. I've never used it but some people say it works well? I did do a video on Innox and Lanolin spray a few years ago ..that could be it? Cheers Gregg.
What a great tip. Was using a rubber and things were getting worse, my switchers kept needing bigger and bigger push starts every time I made a move. Now I understand why. Made the switch as you suggested and everything is like new, my engine runs so smoothly now, thanks!!!
Thanks Michael! This is what I like to hear! Just remember to go and clean up all the rubber dust with a vacuum and little brush..especially in the frogs and switch points! It's great to see trains running how they should and I'm glad you are happy with the results. Cheers Gregg.
Big thank you from the UK mate👍 Bought some Inox and boy does it work. Cleaned my track then applied the Inox as you showed and I could see the results straight away. Cheers again Gregg.
Hi Ron , you're welcome sir! That's great that you got the results I promised ..LOL. It will keep removing dirt from your wheels so don't worry if you keep getting black lines on your rags! I think the sales of Inoxx in the UK have gone up a bit since this video!! Thank you for the feed back and for watching! Cheers Gregg.
believe at one. time you had told me that WD-40 was the same as inox, have used it for years.You were right, works great. Thank you Gregg, love your videos , be safe
Thats great Joe! It is similar , but if you can get Innox it is a bit more suited to our needs. But WD-40 is fine and I'm glad you are getting good results and thanks for the feedback. Cheers Gregg.
Joe, How much WD 40 do you use? Do you use anything in addition to the WD 40? Have you also discarded your "Bright-Boy"? Do you use a track cleaning car?
@@amtrakatsfnyc2387 Ive used INOX for over 40 years. I used WD40 before that but I found the WD40 dries out quickly and the metal surfaces oxidise causing poor electrical contact conductivity.
When I was a kid, I used one of those gritty things. That was back in the mid 60's and my track was brass. Didn't give a crap about that track back then. .....everything was different anyway. Fast forward to the late 90's; married, two kids, 2nd house and a nice big basement. Finally built bench work around the walls and started laying track. Fast forward a bit more; having trains run smoothly (DC) was getting to be a pain in the ass. I had two loops, 4 scale miles (HO) of mainline and numerous long sidings. ...plus a 5 track yard, caboose tracks and an nice engine facility. Then trains started running like shit. I was cleaning my track with alcohol and I thought my finger was going to fall off. Then shortly after cleaning, trains started running like shit again. Now I was starting to use alcohol (the kind in the 12 oz can) and I was getting ugly at how the layout ran. I was not far away from a 24 oz framing hammer and smashing the layout to smithereens, and quitting the hobby. !! Then a friend said, "you think the track is too clean, no conductivity" ?? I remember another friend who mentioned using clipper oil bought from a beauty supply store. Years ago we had a friend who was a WW2, Pacific Theater veteran. He swore by the clipper oil. So with that said, a 4 oz bottle of clipper oil was about $4 US. So I bought one. Learning the hard way, I put too much oil on the track and the trains stalled and just spun it's wheels. So wiping that off, I now just put a dite on my finger tip (hardly a small drop) and rub it on a 3' section of rail (track now nickel, no brass) then another dite and another rub on the opposite rail down the track a bit. Trains now run like tops. When the headlight of the lead unit starts to flicker just a tad, I reapply just a teeny bit of clipper oil and everything runs great for a long time. I run 70+ car freights with 3-4 units. When the track is ever so slightly oiled, I let the trains spread it all around the layout. I'm not so young anymore and I'm getting physically handicapped now so I don't get down cellar as much as I would like anymore. However, I know when I go down cellar, my trains will run well. Now I break Rule G in comfort rather than in anger that trains will not run well. As Gregg stated, you need good electrical conduct to run your trains !! For me, clipper oil is the answer. Sorry to run on a bit. Thank you.
Hi Steve, a great story and similar to many in the comments about IPA ! I also got to the stage of trains refusing to run after cleaning, and a short length of track wiped with (then ) CRC fixed it instantly. I hope you still get down to the basement to run some trains now and then ! Thanks for watching sir. Cheers Gregg.
Excellent information Greg. A very entertaining and informative video. Yes i have to agree that it is most upsetting and frustrating when somebody else's layout has this problem of stalling, let alone on your own layout. Enjoy all your videos, keep them coming. Cheers Anthony Smithson.
Thank you Anthony! Stalling trains and running at fast speeds are my 2 bug bears...which is why I don't go to train shows!! Glad you enjoy the videos and I appreciate your support. Gregg:-)
Changed my track cleaning process. I went to the Inox and through my track eraser away. My trains now run better then they have ever run. Thanks for the video.
That's great news Clarence! That is the exact reason I made the video and you have joined the long list of happy modellers with better running trains! Thanks for the feedback and for watching! Cheers Gregg.
Im only starting out in model railways but this is great, a brilliant video which really helps with trying to understand how things work and what not to do, and really entertaining too. Best wishes Gregg from the UK 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
@@FishplateFilms Thanks Gregg - I’ve got hold of some Inox and it’s excellent. I found a loco from a failed attempt to start modelling trains about 20 years ago. It wouldn’t work at all in the beginning, having not been used for so long. However, a bit of Inox on the track, and some on the wheels and it’s back to life! It’s a great recommendation. Thanks for the reply and posting the videos 👍🏼
Aussie here now living in the USA...and laughed and laughed. Great advice. and I too got my original DCC stuff from Gary! Now dragged it all to the USA and just starting to get back into the swing of modeling.
HI Gary! Great to hear from you and how cool is it that you can see UP and BNSF and all the others in the flesh! I have to call Gary today , need to get a cab screen replaced!. I'm glad you liked the video and you had a laugh! What part of the US are you in? Cheers Gregg. :-)
"I think I need a cup of tea" I think that we all do after watching your video!!! - A very funny video - thank you - it made me laugh - I'm going to tell my friends on the Hornby Forum about this!!! (I'm from England)
Thanks Jimmy! I think we all need a laugh and a dose of reality these days! Don't forget about the issue with traction tyres..they don't like these sprays! Cheers Gregg.
I use to use alcohol all the time for years never knowing how bad it was until a few months ago. Locos started to run bad Then I switched to CRC contact cleaner and protectant . They run smooth as silk now . Good video. Everyone should watch this one.
Thanks very much Scott! I did the same and the problem got worse till trains just wouldn't run, then I cleaned a small section of track with Innox, ran a train through it and it continued round the layout without stopping. Glad you are having great results. Gregg :-)
Hi Richard, glad you got good results ! I'm sure with N scale, that you need to be a bit careful ...not much contact area with the rails on your locos! Thanks for watching and letting me know your results! Cheers Gregg.
An update. Had renno’s done in room above the train room. Had it covered up for dust for over 7 months. Took off the plastic cover recently, vacuumed (was good anyway) and ran trains without touching the track. Perfect!
Watched this video and went out and bought a tin of INOX What a difference it has made to the running of my layout Wish i had found out about it years ago Thanks for your advice
Hi Mike, thanks for the feedback on your results from trying INOXX. I'm glad you got the improved running that I predicted, and you now enjoy the layout more. Tell your friends to throw away their track rubbers and IPA..LOL> Cheers Gregg.
Thank you after watching this got rid of my rubber cleaner and other fluids,I'm in the UK so got some wd 40 contact cleaner was the closest i could find, after ten minutes cleaning it was like a totally different lay out all the trains running great now thankyou for the great advice 👍
Hi Shawn, thanks for the feedback ! This is exactly why I made this video , and I'm chuffed that you found such a huge difference in the operation of your layout! Just to let you know , you can get INOX form "Pendle Slot Racing " in Lancashire:-) . Also CRC2-26 would be better than WD40 , as it is more suited to electrical components, but I'm glad the WD is working for you :-). Thanks again for your great feedback ! CHeers Gregg.
I think you missed that Shawn said WD40 CONTACT CLEANER which is different from STANDARD WD40 and is as effective as other products listed here, as indeed is any industrial contact cleaner. Standard WD 40 is a general purpose compromise.
only 94k views!?!!??!?!?... this information is 100% GOLD for a model railroader... this vid should have no less than 1million views within model railroad circles... i still see folks using alcohol and something called no-ox and other junk... wake up you sleeping model railroaders... the only thing you need is CRC 2-26... home depot has it a few bucks a can... get it... use it... it WORKS
Thank you! I wish it had more views...but I'm rubbing some people, with old views, up the wrong way and they don't like it..LOL. The good thing is that many modellers have tried Inox or CRC and can't believe the difference it has made...so I'm happy with that! Tell your friends to come and watch the video! Cheers Gregg.
Crow T. Robot so CRC 2-26 sounds like it’s a popular choice any issues if u get some on a loco?, any experience with CRC QD contact cleaner? CRC specify it’s made to work with sensitive plastics. Many thanks
@@roydom5 CRC 2-26 does not harm plastics. It is more than a cleaner. it leaves a dry, conducting, corrosion-inhibiting coat. Never used the contact cleaner, but any CRC product should be good. My experience with their 2-26 has been the best of anything I've tried by far.
Just starting again after too many years and cleaned my "new" track and saw better running and then some rust, yes 2nd hand track so not the best, then rubbish running. Tried some of the stuff you said NOT to do, I was so new! I knew I needed to protect the, clean, rail and I knew it had to be electrically clean. SO I did what you said, well I bought and used CRC, Bang, and the job was done. Thank You, blobby awesome. I am still nuts but at least I drove myself there.
Thank you Diez! I'm glad you got some good results and also found out the difference yourself ! If you have rust , then you have really old track ??? Good luck with it! Cheers Gregg.
@@FishplateFilms 7 months down the road, still fantastic, every now and then I get a bit of stutter so I just "dirty it" with the lube and job done. Getting Dirty, such fun. Thanks again.
How have I been so stupid for so long! Just returned to the hobby after a few stop starts since teenage years and always used track rubber…I could never understand why things kept getting worse! I’m now back going TT120 following Hornby’s new range, the Peco track is down and it’s great but it tarnished very quickly … the Inox MX3 is on order and the track rubber will serve as a reminder of taking my engineers hat off when playing with my trains! Thanks for the wake up call!
@@gkoproske The main reason Glen, is that these lubricants are not designed for electrical circuits and can damage some plastics, but if you get the results you're after then keep using them. Cheers Gregg.
I couldn't believe people put automatic transmission fluid on their tracks, but faced with serious conductivity issues, I started using it on a small scale over a year ago. My experiences didn't match much of what I read; in very small amounts carefully spread it pulls the dirt off locomotives, rolling stock and track and leaves it in a few small oily black blobs that can be wiped up with a cloth very quickly; its prime advantage is that locos can be cleaned while in motion without having to remove them from the track. No adverse affects detected in 18 months but I'm careful not to get any on plastic sleepers.
building my first railway and i definitely will benefit from this. i am ordering everything after i type this. hopefully my class 81s will be as smooth as silk.
Good luck with it Thomas! The new Aussie stuff seems pretty good these days , and the 81's are tough looking locos. Glad you liked the video and thanks for watching. Gregg.
Very informative, very entertaining and enjoyable. The fact that you get a little bent once in awhile just proves that you care about what you're saying. I'd like to think we're similar in that respect as I've been known to shall we say rant occasionally. Thanks for all the good info!
Thank you ! I'm glad you enjoyed it and best of all, you got rid of your sanding block..LOL...Your life has now improved!! Enjoy the benefits my friend! Cheers Gregg.
Wow! On the back of watching this I ordered some Inox from Pendle slot cars (UK firm) on Monday - arrived today (Wednesday). I've wiped a few sections of track and already my temperamental DCC sound locos are running far better. I cannot quite believe it was that quick and easy. The track looked pretty clean before but a wipe with the cloth took off loads of "crud". Thanks for posting this video.
You're welcome Richard! It will get even better as the Innox cleans the wheels! Just do a bit here and there and let the trais take it round! You will always get dirt on your rag but it's just doing its job. Thanks for the support and for the feedback and I'm glad you got good results that fast...just like I did ! Cheers Gregg.
Thanks Michael! I think Mr Laurel and Hardy would have a different opinion ..LOL. I am doing a series on CV programming , but keeping the rants very small. Cheers Gregg.
I love this video, I got the product and have not had any track problems since. This is the best rant ever, still makes me laugh. Great video, great product mate.
Thanks Rick! I'm glad you enjoyed the rant, got some Inox and got the results I promised! I get a kick out of seeing people prove the science behind the video and have better running layouts. Cheers, Gregg.
I've just started building an oo gauge railway and cleaned the rails inside my tunnel using IPA and now the loco is stuttering and comes to a halt. 'Silly boy me'!!! I've just watched your tutorial and feel like an absolute idiot of the highest order. I'm going to get some wet n dry 4000 gauge and wet it with inox and ask my wife to put her arm in the tunnels, mine won't fit,; single portals!. Will let you know if this works out well. Excellent video, just love your style and your personality is brilliant. Good to 'rant' as it definitely help spell out the message.
Thanks Richard, you will only need the wetndry if you used a track rubber and scratched the rails, otherwise a rag and Inox will be fine! Please let me know how you get on ! Cheers Gregg
Great video, as an Aussie myself I will be buying this. Makes perfect sense the rants. Thanks for sharing these tips! I also recon due to the isolation rules in Australia not going to the pub for a beer is starting to take its toll on you like it is me. Keep well and all the best. Clint
Thanks CLint! The thing is I don't drink beer or go to pubs , but do frequent the odd whisky Bar on the odd occasion! You will like the results from this , just use a little and see the difference! Cheers Gregg.
Good video Good Rant, good advice. I was having the same problems and cleaning with Isopropol. Watched video, followed advice, no more problems, thanks mate.
Thanks John! That's great news and proves my point ..LOL, Glad to see your trains running like they should and thank you for the feedback! Cheers,Gregg.
Alan Darbyshire Hi Greg watched your track cleaning video and found an Inok supplier in England, cured my running problems in an instance all my locos are dc and from the sixties, Hornby Dublo, Tri-ang, ect I have refurbished them and due to you they now run perfectly keep up the good work, love your rants.
Great Rant Gregg, the product referring to is CRC 2-26 , I would use a drop on each wheel of my loco and give that a run around for about 5 minutes before and after a session . I got this tip from one of the operators on an exhibition layout , haven't looked back since. I also have a can of Inox, haven't tried that yet , I do use that in place of WD 40
Thanks Shaun! It works well too , but try the Innox and compare . I wipe random sections of track evrey time i run trains and it gets around the layout. CHeers Gregg.
@@FishplateFilms Hi Gregg, I will give the Innox ago this weekend as the layout hasn't been running for at least 3 months . I would be very interested to say how it it goes, thanks Gregg
Thanks so much for your videos on track cleaning. I live in Minnesota and couldn't find the Inox but got some CRC and cleaned a couple of troublesome points and it made a huge difference. I then cleaned the wheels on my two most sensitive locos and that made a huge difference also. This next weekend will see me using the CRC on the rest of the track as well as the wheels on the rest of my locos. Thanks again!
Hi Tim, thank you and I'm glad you got some great results! You will work out how much and when to use the cleaner, and after a while your wheels will clean themselves on the rails , which you remove the dirt from when you apply more CRC! . Cheers Gregg.
Thats great Peter! Just remember , it will remove all the dirt from wheels, so you have to go over sections now and then , and most times the rag will be dirty.....as it does it's job! Enjoy your new layout!! Thanks for the feedback! Cheers Gregg.
Wonderful video. Just got two new brass engines and have an open house tomorrow. So throwing out the abrasive pads and the ISO and going with some CRC i have.
Thanks Jay! If you can , vacuum the track before using the CrC, to remove all the grit from the track rubber! CRC 2=26 is the one to use , though I hear they now make a cleaner/protector but I haven't seen it yet? Let me know how it goes and remember it will improve as the trains take the CRC around the layout. Cheers Gregg.
Gregg, right on the money! I'm in the USA. I've used Corrosion Guard and Corrosion-X on electrical connectors, and on my ham gear coax connectors (PL-259/SO-239 aka UHF connectors) for years. I learned about this stuff from working in a seawater environment. A few years ago I was introduced to Aero-Car's ACT-6006 Track & Rail Cleaner. They also make Conduct-a-Lube for commutators and wipers. But yes, it is counter intuitive that a dielectric material would give better conductivity, but it does. My rant is people insisting track must be perfectly clean to stop loco hesitation and stalls. For some time now EVERY loco on my layout has Keep Alives. Between the proper cleaning and Keep Alives, my locos never stall, no matter how slowly they are creeping.
Thank you Sir! Yes working in salt air is a killer for electrical gear! Those products you mention sound perfect for track cleaning and to keep it from oxidising. I don't have any keep alives as I use live frogs , but if I had some short switching locos, I would give them a try. Gregg :-)
I am a hornby virgin just starting out bought a few trains and train sets of eBay. And I get free wood so I am going to build a track from scratch in half of my front room. All the info you give out to all, I just bought inox mx3 via good old eBay. Happy tracking and choo choo. From uk
Thanks so much for the advice. You do make me laugh! I like your polo shirt from the famous Parkes radiotelescope. I loved watching “The Dish”! Still one of my favourite films.
Well I’ve got myself some INOX in the UK and just cleaned the track with it. It’s taken a few runs to get it running smooth but it seems to be working well now. Proof of the pudding will be the long terms benefits. Thanks for the tip!
That’s what I’m hoping Gregg, think I might need to use some fine wet and dry paper in a couple of places as there’s a few areas with some paint or other gunk stuck on. Still in the scenic phase at the moment!
When I was about 8 or 9 years old cleaned my American double set of tracks with steel wool. Got the track very shiny. My dad had to take both engines apart to remove tons of little pieces if steel wool. After that he purchased an American Flyer track cleaning car that think used a purp!e color fluid. A few years later he purchased me a 140 watt Weller soldering gun and I soldered all the tracks together then ran a file over joints. Also soldered wires every three foot of track and trains never slowed up at furtest point of where transformers were connected. When my oldest son was around 8 years old I reworked the old platform even I stalling rubber road bed. Had lights inside all of the buikdjngs. He ran the two trains no more then 5 minutes then maybe a minute the next day. He told me he rather play with vidio games. A few years later neither one of my brothers wanted the trains so I sold them.
Like everyone else here I loved this and immediately subscribed and gave a thumbs up. See you on the next one! Oh, and you look like a Mitchell, (one of whom I am)
Thank you Steve! Not the contact cleaner sir , you want 2-26 spray! The contact cleaner will not leave a protective coating on the rails! Hi to all in SouthTexas :-) Cheers Gregg.
I too did it wrong for many years. Attached a wipe stayed with Crc to track cleaning car two loops around. WOW running better lights not flickering can only do a little at a time the smell can make you buggy lol my 3 rail empire thanks you
Thats great Ron! Just a little now and then on different parts of the layout, and it will remove the dirt from the wheels too! The rag will usually get black strips from the rails, this is the dirt being removed from wheels so don't think the track is always dirty! Thanks for the feedback :-) Gregg .
Hi, just watched your video and you are absolutely right, had problems with a stuttering train after cleaning the track and train with isopropyl, bought WD40 specialist fast drying contact cleaner as I'm in the UK and it worked a treat, great advice, thanks
Thanks David! Glad to help.Just to clarify , that Innox is no a "contact cleaner" and the WD40 spray will not help with oxidation , as it is a "Cleaner" only. But if you're getting good results , then thats what your after! Chers Gregg.
@@1701celica Hi David, not rust as such, but the Nickel Silver does tarnish a little , but the main job of Innox , or CRC 2-26, is to help maintain a conductive path through dirt and oxidation. Contact cleaner will certainly clean well but leave it sterile, but if you're using traction tyres, then Inoxx is not for you:-). You can buy Innox from "Pendle Slot car racing" in Lancashire...a few viewers have mentioned that , so they are getting a few different customers! Check out Charlie at "Chadwick Model Railways" who has tested Innox after watching my video. Gregg :-)
Thank you! isopropyl alcohol did not work for me and trains were stopping all the time in particular at slow speed. I used the US equivalent (CRC 2-26) and now all works perfectly!
You're welcome! Exactly the same happened to me when using IPA. I'm glad you got good results from the CRC and your trains now run how they should! Cheers Gregg.
Classic! Back around 1960, Atlas rail was brass. I used to scrape sandpaper under a wooden block, which would work for a while. But the more I did it, the less the "cleaning" lasted. Switched to vinegar and got better results.
Well, I initially tried buying a special freight car that could clean the track whilst you ran the train. It came with some chemical that you would add to a cylindrical tank sitting vertically atop what was basically a flat car carrying a silver-colored cylindrical load (the cleaner reservoir). The fluid was gravity plumbed to a pair of lateral (spring-loaded) wipers. The idea was to pull this flat car around the track with a loco and it would automatically clean the rails. But the thing kept derailing at the switches. Aside: I only had three locos, of which only one could pull the device. That was your ubiquitous Athearn F7. Mine was Pennsy 9506 (Brunswick). I also had a delicious Fleischmann PA in Warbonnet livery. The shell was exquisite, cast metal with applied handrails and a metal screen grating over the heat exchanger duct. But even with lead weights, it would lose traction, which was a shame cuz it had more powerful gearing than the Athearn. Also had a Lionel "Texas Special" FA-1 with the rubber-band transmission. Those bands would slip trying to pull the cleaner car. Frankly, that loco was junk. But it's the one that got be started in H0 modeling back in '59. I'm sure you know the classic construction of the Athearn with the single three-pole motor in the center. But did you know that the Fleischmann didn't use rods at all. It had two independent propulsion modules, each with its own motor that sat directly over the bogey. The motors were mounted directly to the bogeys and each bogey could slip into the shell or quickly be dropped from the shell for gear lubrication. Every now and then, one of these appears on eBay. It's worth a fetch just to open one up and enjoy the construction. But, I digress... One day, someone at school showed me that dipping a copper penny into tomato ketchup (let it sit) could make the penny shiny. I investigated why and learned that the vinegar is mildly acidic. It is strong enough to de-oxidize the surface of copper and brass without being strong enough to hurt anything. And vinegar was (then) dirt cheap. Indeed, vinegar mixed with flour was used as a homemade brass cleaner during The Depression here in The States. Sorry if this is too much information. I took your question marks to be an invite to elaborate. But yeah. You're point about abrasives pitting the rail surface is well-taken.
@@TheCondoInRedondo Not at all! I had a rubber band drive RDC from Athearbogie/trn that was horrible! I remember Lima had a similar motor that sat on the bogie/truck. The motor ran in the same plane as the wheels , so no wrm drive and you could push them along and turn the motor...which is what we need today to get away from speed matching issues and locos fighting with each other. I wanted to buy a "Aztec" cleaning car but they have stopped making them , so I will try to find a used one. Thanks for the interesting trip down memory lane. Gregg .
Stay approachable, Gregg. That is the charm of your channel. You speak to us as if you're a neighbor. You also respond to feedback. That's the source of your popularity. You're chummy, the way Paul Hogan portrayed his character in the movies. It just shocks me when I hear your accent, yet see 'Merican heralds on the sides of your locomotives. I thought I'd see a twenty-six carriage Ghan or maybe a Great Southern and a gigantic knife, not necessarily in that sequence. That said, I must admit I do have an NR, two EL, an A and a B for what it's worth. But they haul North American rolling stock, I'm afraid to admit. The NR is Austrains, I think. The others are Auscision. Thanks for your attention, Gregg. I'm absorbing your tutelage on occupancy detection today.
Was a Signal elec Mechanic apprentice back in the 70's. Was walking from the Clyde Depot with the Elec in charge to the Granville Signal Box back in the morning of the 18th of January 1977. Had just got to the Up end of Granville Station when we saw the Bridge come down. Not a nice day. Left the Railways soon after.
Interesting story wimbo! I don't blame you at all for that , not a good day at the office for many . I saw them making the movie up here in Brisbane in a shopping centre carpark!! You wouldn't know it watching the movie , and it wasn't a bad film and showed you all the things that went wrong. Thanks for watching. Gregg.
Thank you for a great informative video, my track rubber just hit the rubbish bin, I always thought it was a bit harsh and abrasive for the tracks, will use the products you recommend in the future, I enjoy your rants, regards
Thank you Lee and you're welcome! I'm glad you binned the rubber and you can now look forward to better running trains! Don't forget to go round and vacuum the track to get rid of all the rubber grit! Cheers
Nice rant, it’s been a while since I cleaned my track. If the track gets dirty, I add one more locomotive to the consist so the train somewhat moves. I have used a product called Goo-Gone, only on the locomotives. Never really had any issues. Can’t wait to see more rants, hopefully after the rant you will find a happy place. Lol cheers from cold and snowy Nebraska.
Thanks Terry! I feel better now...LOL. DOn't know if I approve of your extra horsepower technique?? I've never used Goo gone so I can't comment on it. Ther may be more rants in the future??? Cheers Gregg.
Hi , wonderful ,I have just tried some contact cleaner just like you said and what a difference ,smooth at fast or deadly slow ,I used to put it on a faster speed or power just to get it around the track ,oh what a joy ,even the lights on my virgin train are brighter and I cant wait for it to go dark ,a standing ovation to you kind sir ,amazing ,and some thing that actually works very best wishes from the uk Brian.
Hi Brian , thanks for watching and I'm glad you got some good results! Just remember that contact cleaner will not leave a protective film on the rails like Innox or CRC will, so you might want to use one of those from time to time. Cheers Gregg.
@@FishplateFilms Hi Gregg thanks for your reply , I will try crc or innox ,I used Servisol super 10 and it certainly made a huge difference and I was so pleased lol my very best wishes Brian
@@FishplateFilms HI Gregg managed to get some INOX MX3 Lubricant, I hope it is the correct one . I think it is as loads of people are using it on there Scale electrics model Railways and there tracks .and they are not giving it away it cost £10 for INOX MX3 Lubricant, 60ml, lol but people are raving about it ,and I will after use it well and not waste it ,thanks again Brian
@@mrmusdtard2 Hi Brian, thats the one! A can will last you a decade easy...use the plastic tube in the nozzle, and spray 2 tiny patches on a rag , then run along the track and see how black it gets! I keep using the same rags( i have little folded pieces everywhere) until they are filthy. Once you get the rails clean, keep rags with Innox on them as it will stay on them . You'll always get little dark lines , as dirt is always falling and the Innox will get dirt off the wheels too..it's a on going process but you will work out a routine that suits you. Gregg :-)
Great video Gregg, love the rants. Just ordered some CRC 2-26. Ive been pretty fortunate on my track staying fairly clean but it is due and I am staying away from the IPA. - Steve
@@FishplateFilms thanks again Gregg. Can’t wait to try it when it arrives. I’ve got a hidden reversing loop that will eventually be very difficult to clean once scenery is complete. If I can have the trains clean most of it for me - problem solved! - Steve
I once thought you had Kangaroo's loose in the top paddock but it's now very obvious you have all your kangaroos well under control.... I like it. :) Nice work.
Very good video. I have used in the past a pencil rubber then wipe off the rails with a soft cloth. I am about to build a small layout for my Grandchild and the stored rail I have is oxidised so will use inox to clean it and the wheels of the rolling stock. I like the no nonsense language and to the point presentation. One thing that the rest of the cleaning videos do not mention is that the rails are a circuit and should be treated as such. Thanks.
😅😂😄LOVE IT YOU MADE A GOOD POINT! I agree those are really bad for your track, I've gone to using a nickel on the track to clean it, as this is the same thing as our nickel/silver and this fill in those scratches, (if any) but the CRC is something that hood just don't forget the locomotive wheels .... thanks for sharing....Jack 👍
Thanks Jack! No Nickels down here ..LOL Interesting idea? The Innox is picked up by the wheels and cleans them as trains go along the track. The wiping the track removes the dirt from the wheels so it's just an ongoing process. Gregg :-)
Watched a few videos and read a few articles about dos and don'ts - I tried your method and so far so good. My contact cleaner is for moving contact parts - I tried a dirty piece of track and so far it is very smooth. Fingers crossed. Easier than having to vacuum up after scrubbing!!
Just came across this and tried it on my own layout, everything runs so smoothly now no dead spots, no sound cutting out, and i couldn't be happier 😊 thanks for sharing this
Thats great news! I'm glad you got the desired results and thanks for watching and letting me know! I appreciate the feedback and love seeing layouts work better.
Cheers Gregg.
This man could make the funniest movie with his great personality. Talent scout s should see this.
Hi, it's great to hear someone whom will speak clearly and colourfully. I'm sick of political correctness. Well done, mate.
Thank you Ivan! I'm all for manners , but you can stick your PC..LOL. Glad you enjoyed the video! If you're sick of PC .you'll love Lord Stan.
Cheers Gregg.
I realize it's kinda off topic but does anybody know a good site to stream new tv shows online ?
@Axel Amir Flixportal :)
@Jordy Harlem Thanks, I went there and it seems like a nice service :D I really appreciate it !!
@Axel Amir no problem xD
As a 63 year old beginner in the US, this is great info. I really appreciate it. I'll have to watch all your other videos. I'm absorbing all the information that I can. I am building a railroad for my 6 year old grandson. We went to a model railroad museum and his eyes were as big as plates! So......here I am. :) Thank you! Greg in Tennessee, US
Hi Greg and welcome to the hobby! You have a lot to learn , so it will keep you busy for the next 63 years!! I really think you're building it for you .....as well as your grandson..LOL. I hope you enjoy the videos and thank you for watching.
Gregg
Worked like a charm. THANK YOU! My tracks turned blackish but even my most stubborn locomotive that I've had in boxes for years run like champs. Maybe the best model railroad tip I've seen on UA-cam.
Thank you SO much ! Glad you got the results I promised..LOL. Keep up on the cleaning and it will only get better !
Cheers Gregg.
Best track cleaning video I’ve seen in over 45 years of model Railroading!
Thanks very much Gary! That's a big call sir! It's taken me almost that long to work out the best method..LOL
Cheers Gregg
It is refreshing hearing from someone who understands electronics and their nature in their natural form. Good job great advice keep up the great work and happy railroading. Tim
Thank you Tim! I guess it comes from a few decades of learning! Thanks for the kind words and for watching.
Cheers Gregg.
Timely video, as I am doing my cleaning of the track on the layout. Thank you, Sir!!!
You're welcome !
Thanks for watching.
Gregg .
Thank you for saving my sanity. I bought this product and couldn’t believe the difference it made on my layout.
You're welcome Paul! I'm glad you got the desired result and your sanity is saved!
Cheers Gregg.
A few years ago you recommended Goo Gone, I've used Goo Gone ever since in my heavy, brass, track cleaner and it has been great, even the loco's and rolling stocks wheels get cleaned.
Hi Sam , that wasn't me I'm afraid. I've never used it but some people say it works well? I did do a video on Innox and Lanolin spray a few years ago ..that could be it?
Cheers Gregg.
What a great tip. Was using a rubber and things were getting worse, my switchers kept needing bigger and bigger push starts every time I made a move. Now I understand why. Made the switch as you suggested and everything is like new, my engine runs so smoothly now, thanks!!!
Thanks Michael! This is what I like to hear! Just remember to go and clean up all the rubber dust with a vacuum and little brush..especially in the frogs and switch points! It's great to see trains running how they should and I'm glad you are happy with the results.
Cheers Gregg.
I quite like your sense of humour, I rant and rave quite a lot myself.
Thanks Sam ! Keeps you sane with a little rant now and then!
Gregg :-)
Nothing like passion for a subject. Rant or not feeling for a thing is the perfect.
Thank you ! I appreciate the support.
Cheers Gregg.
Big thank you from the UK mate👍 Bought some Inox and boy does it work. Cleaned my track then applied the Inox as you showed and I could see the results straight away. Cheers again Gregg.
Hi Ron , you're welcome sir! That's great that you got the results I promised ..LOL. It will keep removing dirt from your wheels so don't worry if you keep getting black lines on your rags! I think the sales of Inoxx in the UK have gone up a bit since this video!!
Thank you for the feed back and for watching!
Cheers Gregg.
Can you get this in the UK? Where did you purchase bud?
@@shteviemac8310 Lancashire Slot Racing used to stock it !
believe at one. time you had told me that WD-40 was the same as inox, have used it for years.You were right, works great. Thank you Gregg, love your videos , be safe
Thats great Joe! It is similar , but if you can get Innox it is a bit more suited to our needs. But WD-40 is fine and I'm glad you are getting good results and thanks for the feedback.
Cheers Gregg.
Joe, How much WD 40 do you use? Do you use anything in addition to the WD 40? Have you also discarded your "Bright-Boy"? Do you use a track cleaning car?
@@amtrakatsfnyc2387 Ive used INOX for over 40 years. I used WD40 before that but I found the WD40 dries out quickly and the metal surfaces oxidise causing poor electrical contact conductivity.
When I was a kid, I used one of those gritty things. That was back in the mid 60's and my track was brass. Didn't give a crap about that track back then. .....everything was different anyway. Fast forward to the late 90's; married, two kids, 2nd house and a nice big basement. Finally built bench work around the walls and started laying track. Fast forward a bit more; having trains run smoothly (DC) was getting to be a pain in the ass. I had two loops, 4 scale miles (HO) of mainline and numerous long sidings. ...plus a 5 track yard, caboose tracks and an nice engine facility. Then trains started running like shit. I was cleaning my track with alcohol and I thought my finger was going to fall off. Then shortly after cleaning, trains started running like shit again. Now I was starting to use alcohol (the kind in the 12 oz can) and I was getting ugly at how the layout ran. I was not far away from a 24 oz framing hammer and smashing the layout to smithereens, and quitting the hobby. !! Then a friend said, "you think the track is too clean, no conductivity" ?? I remember another friend who mentioned using clipper oil bought from a beauty supply store. Years ago we had a friend who was a WW2, Pacific Theater veteran. He swore by the clipper oil. So with that said, a 4 oz bottle of clipper oil was about $4 US. So I bought one. Learning the hard way, I put too much oil on the track and the trains stalled and just spun it's wheels. So wiping that off, I now just put a dite on my finger tip (hardly a small drop) and rub it on a 3' section of rail (track now nickel, no brass) then another dite and another rub on the opposite rail down the track a bit. Trains now run like tops. When the headlight of the lead unit starts to flicker just a tad, I reapply just a teeny bit of clipper oil and everything runs great for a long time. I run 70+ car freights with 3-4 units. When the track is ever so slightly oiled, I let the trains spread it all around the layout. I'm not so young anymore and I'm getting physically handicapped now so I don't get down cellar as much as I would like anymore. However, I know when I go down cellar, my trains will run well. Now I break Rule G in comfort rather than in anger that trains will not run well. As Gregg stated, you need good electrical conduct to run your trains !! For me, clipper oil is the answer. Sorry to run on a bit. Thank you.
Hi Steve, a great story and similar to many in the comments about IPA ! I also got to the stage of trains refusing to run after cleaning, and a short length of track wiped with (then ) CRC fixed it instantly. I hope you still get down to the basement to run some trains now and then !
Thanks for watching sir.
Cheers Gregg.
Great plain no bull manure just straight to the point .Good man 😊
Thanks Steve! Glad you enjoy the videos!
CHeers Gregg.
Excellent information Greg. A very entertaining and informative video. Yes i have to agree that it is most upsetting and frustrating when somebody else's layout has this problem of stalling, let alone on your own layout.
Enjoy all your videos, keep them coming.
Cheers
Anthony Smithson.
Thank you Anthony! Stalling trains and running at fast speeds are my 2 bug bears...which is why I don't go to train shows!! Glad you enjoy the videos and I appreciate your support.
Gregg:-)
Changed my track cleaning process. I went to the Inox and through my track eraser away. My trains now run better then they have ever run. Thanks for the video.
That's great news Clarence! That is the exact reason I made the video and you have joined the long list of happy modellers with better running trains!
Thanks for the feedback and for watching!
Cheers Gregg.
Im only starting out in model railways but this is great, a brilliant video which really helps with trying to understand how things work and what not to do, and really entertaining too. Best wishes Gregg from the UK 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Thank you CAptain! Glad you liked the video and got some tips !
Cheers Gregg.
@@FishplateFilms Thanks Gregg - I’ve got hold of some Inox and it’s excellent. I found a loco from a failed attempt to start modelling trains about 20 years ago. It wouldn’t work at all in the beginning, having not been used for so long. However, a bit of Inox on the track, and some on the wheels and it’s back to life! It’s a great recommendation. Thanks for the reply and posting the videos 👍🏼
Just setting up a new layout with fresh track, and thrilled to find out we have INOX MX3 over here. Ah, going to give it a try. Thanks!
Thats great Richard! You only need a little , so it lasts forever!
Thanks for the feedback and for watching!
Gregg.
Thanks mate , perfect timing for this subject ...
Your'e Welcome Craig!
Cheers Gregg.
Aussie here now living in the USA...and laughed and laughed. Great advice. and I too got my original DCC stuff from Gary! Now dragged it all to the USA and just starting to get back into the swing of modeling.
HI Gary! Great to hear from you and how cool is it that you can see UP and BNSF and all the others in the flesh! I have to call Gary today , need to get a cab screen replaced!. I'm glad you liked the video and you had a laugh! What part of the US are you in?
Cheers Gregg. :-)
"I think I need a cup of tea" I think that we all do after watching your video!!! - A very funny video - thank you - it made me laugh - I'm going to tell my friends on the Hornby Forum about this!!! (I'm from England)
Thanks Jimmy! I think we all need a laugh and a dose of reality these days! Don't forget about the issue with traction tyres..they don't like these sprays!
Cheers Gregg.
about time someone else is getting the truth about how bad IPA is for track . thanks
Yes David , took me a few years to find out!
Thanks for watching.
Cheers Gregg.
Gregg, very useful video. I would never have guessed that about rodent excrement! Love your sense of humor. Kennedy
LOL...Yes stops trains in their tracks!!
Glad you liked the video Kennedy.
Cheers Gregg.
I use to use alcohol all the time for years never knowing how bad it was until a few months ago. Locos started to run bad Then I switched to CRC contact cleaner and protectant . They run smooth as silk now . Good video. Everyone should watch this one.
Thanks very much Scott! I did the same and the problem got worse till trains just wouldn't run, then I cleaned a small section of track with Innox, ran a train through it and it continued round the layout without stopping. Glad you are having great results.
Gregg :-)
Damn Greg you could write a Toolbox Talk about this stuff. 😂🤣
LOL...Bloody ToolBox Talks,,I'm sick of them at work!! Maybe I'll write a book???
Thanks for watching Bronson.
Gregg.
"Rat piss is a good insulator" hahaha!!! Great video!
Thanks David!
Gregg :-)
Thanks. Tried this and works great. Running n-scale with trains over 30’ and over did the amount at first so learnt the hard way but now got it right.
Hi Richard, glad you got good results ! I'm sure with N scale, that you need to be a bit careful ...not much contact area with the rails on your locos!
Thanks for watching and letting me know your results!
Cheers Gregg.
An update. Had renno’s done in room above the train room. Had it covered up for dust for over 7 months. Took off the plastic cover recently, vacuumed (was good anyway) and ran trains without touching the track. Perfect!
Hahahhaa i loved it Gregg! I definitely be using that stuff.
Thanks for watching Sir! Give it a try.
Gregg :-)
Watched this video and went out and bought a tin of INOX What a difference it has made to the running of my layout
Wish i had found out about it years ago
Thanks for your advice
Hi Mike, thanks for the feedback on your results from trying INOXX. I'm glad you got the improved running that I predicted, and you now enjoy the layout more. Tell your friends to throw away their track rubbers and IPA..LOL>
Cheers Gregg.
What a great video, Inox has been a life saver. Keep up the videos.
@@bryanspencer3739 Thanks Bryan! Glad it worked for you and achieved the results I promised !
Cheers Gregg.
Having lots and lots of feeders helps too!
Yes Richard , and with DCC being AC , there is far less voltage drop than with DC!
Thanks for watching.
Thank you after watching this got rid of my rubber cleaner and other fluids,I'm in the UK so got some wd 40 contact cleaner was the closest i could find, after ten minutes cleaning it was like a totally different lay out all the trains running great now thankyou for the great advice 👍
Hi Shawn, thanks for the feedback ! This is exactly why I made this video , and I'm chuffed that you found such a huge difference in the operation of your layout! Just to let you know , you can get INOX form "Pendle Slot Racing " in Lancashire:-) . Also CRC2-26 would be better than WD40 , as it is more suited to electrical components, but I'm glad the WD is working for you :-).
Thanks again for your great feedback !
CHeers Gregg.
I think you missed that Shawn said WD40 CONTACT CLEANER which is different from STANDARD WD40 and is as effective as other products listed here, as indeed is any industrial contact cleaner. Standard WD 40 is a general purpose compromise.
Loved this video! Keep on ranting!
Always! Thanks Deryk!
only 94k views!?!!??!?!?... this information is 100% GOLD for a model railroader... this vid should have no less than 1million views within model railroad circles... i still see folks using alcohol and something called no-ox and other junk... wake up you sleeping model railroaders... the only thing you need is CRC 2-26... home depot has it a few bucks a can... get it... use it... it WORKS
Thank you! I wish it had more views...but I'm rubbing some people, with old views, up the wrong way and they don't like it..LOL. The good thing is that many modellers have tried Inox or CRC and can't believe the difference it has made...so I'm happy with that!
Tell your friends to come and watch the video!
Cheers Gregg.
CRC 2~26 works for me. Keep on ranting as much as you like. It’s all educational to me 👍🏻
Thank you Lance ! Always something new to learn in this hobby..even for a oldie like me.
Cheers Gregg.
CRC 2-26, top-notch stuff, works better than anything I've tried. The effect lasts for months. It's made for electrical switches.
Crow T. Robot so CRC 2-26 sounds like it’s a popular choice any issues if u get some on a loco?, any experience with CRC QD contact cleaner? CRC specify it’s made to work with sensitive plastics. Many thanks
@@roydom5 CRC 2-26 does not harm plastics. It is more than a cleaner. it leaves a dry, conducting, corrosion-inhibiting coat. Never used the contact cleaner, but any CRC product should be good. My experience with their 2-26 has been the best of anything I've tried by far.
@@roydom5 I would stay away from contact cleaner roydom and go with the Innox or CRC2-26 as you say !
Gregg :-)
Just starting again after too many years and cleaned my "new" track and saw better running and then some rust, yes 2nd hand track so not the best, then rubbish running.
Tried some of the stuff you said NOT to do, I was so new!
I knew I needed to protect the, clean, rail and I knew it had to be electrically clean.
SO I did what you said, well I bought and used CRC, Bang, and the job was done.
Thank You, blobby awesome.
I am still nuts but at least I drove myself there.
Thank you Diez! I'm glad you got some good results and also found out the difference yourself ! If you have rust , then you have really old track ???
Good luck with it!
Cheers Gregg.
@@FishplateFilms 7 months down the road, still fantastic, every now and then I get a bit of stutter so I just "dirty it" with the lube and job done.
Getting Dirty, such fun.
Thanks again.
@@diez66 Great stuff and thanks for the feedback !
Cheers Gregg.
Right there on the front of the can, non food grade 🤣🤣
You got your point across in a very humorous way. Thanks. I liked it.
Thanks George! Glad you got a laugh and some tips!
Gregg :-)
Oh I forgot my wife's father use to call RP 7 or WD 40 Tigers Piss LOL
Well I know rat pee is a great insulator..LOL
How have I been so stupid for so long! Just returned to the hobby after a few stop starts since teenage years and always used track rubber…I could never understand why things kept getting worse! I’m now back going TT120 following Hornby’s new range, the Peco track is down and it’s great but it tarnished very quickly … the Inox MX3 is on order and the track rubber will serve as a reminder of taking my engineers hat off when playing with my trains! Thanks for the wake up call!
We all did it Matthew! But now you know and let me know how it works for you. Glad you enjoyed the video.
Gregg.
And DO NOT put automatic transmission fluid on your track !
Absolutely !!! I remember when that was a "thing" ??? And brake fluid too!!! What were people thinking..LOL.
Thanks for watching Otto.
Gregg.
When I used it, trains ran remarkably better. Saying do not doesn't offer any reason why.
I've used it and not any trouble with it. Cleans the track and drys quickly. Please explain your statement.
@@gkoproske The main reason Glen, is that these lubricants are not designed for electrical circuits and can damage some plastics, but if you get the results you're after then keep using them.
Cheers Gregg.
I couldn't believe people put automatic transmission fluid on their tracks, but faced with serious conductivity issues, I started using it on a small scale over a year ago. My experiences didn't match much of what I read; in very small amounts carefully spread it pulls the dirt off locomotives, rolling stock and track and leaves it in a few small oily black blobs that can be wiped up with a cloth very quickly; its prime advantage is that locos can be cleaned while in motion without having to remove them from the track. No adverse affects detected in 18 months but I'm careful not to get any on plastic sleepers.
building my first railway and i definitely will benefit from this. i am ordering everything after i type this. hopefully my class 81s will be as smooth as silk.
Good luck with it Thomas! The new Aussie stuff seems pretty good these days , and the 81's are tough looking locos.
Glad you liked the video and thanks for watching.
Gregg.
WD-40 on a clean rag works too.
Glad you got some good results Scott!
Thanks for watching!
Gregg.
Been back in trains about a year. Used WD-40 the first time my track was dirty. It worked so well I have been using it ever since. Have a blessed day.
As we don't have Inox Mx3 here in Sweden, I thank you for your advice on using WD-40 instead!
CRC 2-26 is life changing, After I watched this video I will never use anything else. This stuff can make trains run over rust.
Great to hear! I'm glad you got great results .
Cheers Gregg.
Great rant gregg. But one slight error, that version of "Inox" is the non-food grade type.
But keep up the good work and rants!
Thanks ! I didn't realise I grabbed the wrong can...we use both at work . My Bad ..LOL
Cheers Gregg.
@@FishplateFilms Although I'm sure that can was purchased legitimately by you.
@@CompositeStaff Thats funny right there!!
I Appreciate you’re many Years of Experience and I will start using CRC Products 🎩🎩 Hats off to ya ! Thanks 🙏🏼
You're welcome Michael! Try it and you'll be impressed and thank you for watching.
Gregg:-)
3:58 Lol.
Very informative, very entertaining and enjoyable.
The fact that you get a little bent once in awhile just proves that you care about what you're saying. I'd like to think we're similar in that respect as I've been known to shall we say rant occasionally. Thanks for all the good info!
Thanks Sam! "A little bent"...LMAO...thats a good one! A little passion goes a long way ! I'm glad you got some tips along the way!
Cheers Gregg.
Gregg, I found the video to be enlightening and entertaining! Thank you for sharing with us your knowledge. My "Abrasive block" has been tossed!
Thank you ! I'm glad you enjoyed it and best of all, you got rid of your sanding block..LOL...Your life has now improved!! Enjoy the benefits my friend!
Cheers Gregg.
Wow! On the back of watching this I ordered some Inox from Pendle slot cars (UK firm) on Monday - arrived today (Wednesday). I've wiped a few sections of track and already my temperamental DCC sound locos are running far better. I cannot quite believe it was that quick and easy. The track looked pretty clean before but a wipe with the cloth took off loads of "crud". Thanks for posting this video.
You're welcome Richard! It will get even better as the Innox cleans the wheels! Just do a bit here and there and let the trais take it round! You will always get dirt on your rag but it's just doing its job. Thanks for the support and for the feedback and I'm glad you got good results that fast...just like I did !
Cheers Gregg.
Great stuff. I have been havung serious problems with my new layout and this solution solved them all. Thank you so much for your advice.
That's great Gary! Glad to hear it worked for you...tell your friends!
CHeers Gregg.
Laurel and Hardy only were this funny and entertaining. Make a series. We will love it!
Thanks Michael! I think Mr Laurel and Hardy would have a different opinion ..LOL. I am doing a series on CV programming , but keeping the rants very small.
Cheers Gregg.
Excellent information and finally spoken in plain language!
Thanks Patrick! Glad you got some tips from the video.
Gregg.
my code 100 has been cleaned with 80 grit emery for the last 40 years ! never had a problem other than it's now code 65. ;)
I love this video, I got the product and have not had any track problems since. This is the best rant ever, still makes me laugh.
Great video, great product mate.
Thanks Rick! I'm glad you enjoyed the rant, got some Inox and got the results I promised! I get a kick out of seeing people prove the science behind the video and have better running layouts.
Cheers, Gregg.
I've just started building an oo gauge railway and cleaned the rails inside my tunnel using IPA and now the loco is stuttering and comes to a halt. 'Silly boy me'!!! I've just watched your tutorial and feel like an absolute idiot of the highest order. I'm going to get some wet n dry 4000 gauge and wet it with inox and ask my wife to put her arm in the tunnels, mine won't fit,; single portals!. Will let you know if this works out well. Excellent video, just love your style and your personality is brilliant. Good to 'rant' as it definitely help spell out the message.
Thanks Richard, you will only need the wetndry if you used a track rubber and scratched the rails, otherwise a rag and Inox will be fine! Please let me know how you get on !
Cheers Gregg
Great video, as an Aussie myself I will be buying this. Makes perfect sense the rants. Thanks for sharing these tips! I also recon due to the isolation rules in Australia not going to the pub for a beer is starting to take its toll on you like it is me. Keep well and all the best. Clint
Thanks CLint! The thing is I don't drink beer or go to pubs , but do frequent the odd whisky Bar on the odd occasion! You will like the results from this , just use a little and see the difference!
Cheers Gregg.
Good video Good Rant, good advice. I was having the same problems and cleaning with Isopropol. Watched video, followed advice, no more problems, thanks mate.
Thanks John! That's great news and proves my point ..LOL, Glad to see your trains running like they should and thank you for the feedback!
Cheers,Gregg.
Your humor helps ease the message! Thanks for the good information. Have been using IPA, I'll try your method! Cheers!
Thanks Don! Give it a try and let me know how it goes for you.
Cheers , Gregg.
Alan Darbyshire
Hi Greg
watched your track cleaning video and found an Inok supplier in England, cured my running problems in an instance
all my locos are dc and from the sixties, Hornby Dublo, Tri-ang, ect I have refurbished them and due to you they now run perfectly
keep up the good work, love your rants.
Hi Alan, thats great news and thanks for the feedback !
More rants on the way...thats for sure.
Cheers Gregg
Great Rant Gregg, the product referring to is CRC 2-26 , I would use a drop on each wheel of my loco and give that a run around for about 5 minutes before and after a session .
I got this tip from one of the operators on an exhibition layout , haven't looked back since.
I also have a can of Inox, haven't tried that yet , I do use that in place of WD 40
Thanks Shaun! It works well too , but try the Innox and compare . I wipe random sections of track evrey time i run trains and it gets around the layout.
CHeers Gregg.
@@FishplateFilms Hi Gregg, I will give the Innox ago this weekend as the layout hasn't been running for at least 3 months .
I would be very interested to say how it it goes, thanks Gregg
@@shaunhuckstepp7531 Great Shaun! Please let me know how it goes!!
Gregg .
Thanks so much for your videos on track cleaning. I live in Minnesota and couldn't find the Inox but got some CRC and cleaned a couple of troublesome points and it made a huge difference. I then cleaned the wheels on my two most sensitive locos and that made a huge difference also. This next weekend will see me using the CRC on the rest of the track as well as the wheels on the rest of my locos. Thanks again!
Hi Tim, thank you and I'm glad you got some great results! You will work out how much and when to use the cleaner, and after a while your wheels will clean themselves on the rails , which you remove the dirt from when you apply more CRC! .
Cheers Gregg.
WOW! managed to purchase on eBay wiped tracks once WHAT AN AMAZING DIFFERENCE GOOD BYE TRACK RUBBER THANKS
Thats great Peter! Just remember , it will remove all the dirt from wheels, so you have to go over sections now and then , and most times the rag will be dirty.....as it does it's job! Enjoy your new layout!!
Thanks for the feedback!
Cheers Gregg.
Chadwick model railway brought me here. 😂😂😂 what a great video 👌. Inox ordered. Track rubber binned!!!
LOL...well I need to thank Charlie for another view! Let me know how you get on Richie , when you try the Inox.
Thanks and cheers,
Gregg.
Wonderful video. Just got two new brass engines and have an open house tomorrow. So throwing out the abrasive pads and the ISO and going with some CRC i have.
Thanks Jay! If you can , vacuum the track before using the CrC, to remove all the grit from the track rubber! CRC 2=26 is the one to use , though I hear they now make a cleaner/protector but I haven't seen it yet? Let me know how it goes and remember it will improve as the trains take the CRC around the layout.
Cheers Gregg.
That was fun! And I learned something useful! Thanks!! ....Claude
You're welcome Claude! Glad you enjoyed it.
Cheers Gregg.
A lovely rant there mate. I've been using both of your forbidden items - but now I've seen the light!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching Shane.
Cheers Gregg.
Great video, Gregg! Thanks so much for making these. Helpful, and always entertaining! :)
Thanks Kevin! I'm glad you enjoy the videos.
Gregg .
Gregg, right on the money! I'm in the USA. I've used Corrosion Guard and Corrosion-X on electrical connectors, and on my ham gear coax connectors (PL-259/SO-239 aka UHF connectors) for years. I learned about this stuff from working in a seawater environment. A few years ago I was introduced to Aero-Car's ACT-6006 Track & Rail Cleaner. They also make Conduct-a-Lube for commutators and wipers. But yes, it is counter intuitive that a dielectric material would give better conductivity, but it does. My rant is people insisting track must be perfectly clean to stop loco hesitation and stalls. For some time now EVERY loco on my layout has Keep Alives. Between the proper cleaning and Keep Alives, my locos never stall, no matter how slowly they are creeping.
Thank you Sir! Yes working in salt air is a killer for electrical gear! Those products you mention sound perfect for track cleaning and to keep it from oxidising. I don't have any keep alives as I use live frogs , but if I had some short switching locos, I would give them a try.
Gregg :-)
Very good info, and I loved the ranys. Keep em coming.
Thanks Mike! More rants for sure in the future!
CHeers Gregg.
I am a hornby virgin just starting out bought a few trains and train sets of eBay. And I get free wood so I am going to build a track from scratch in half of my front room. All the info you give out to all, I just bought inox mx3 via good old eBay. Happy tracking and choo choo. From uk
Thanks John! Good luck with it and I'm sure Inox will help keep your trains running well!
Cheers Gregg .
Thanks so much for the advice. You do make me laugh! I like your polo shirt from the famous Parkes radiotelescope. I loved watching “The Dish”! Still one of my favourite films.
Thank you Sir! Glad you enjoy the videos and the "Dish" is a great film! I had a great day visiting the real thing!
Cheers Gregg.
Well I’ve got myself some INOX in the UK and just cleaned the track with it. It’s taken a few runs to get it running smooth but it seems to be working well now. Proof of the pudding will be the long terms benefits. Thanks for the tip!
Thanks Mark! It will get better the more you use it , as it removes the dirt from the wheels and track .
Cheers Gregg.
That’s what I’m hoping Gregg, think I might need to use some fine wet and dry paper in a couple of places as there’s a few areas with some paint or other gunk stuck on. Still in the scenic phase at the moment!
When I was about 8 or 9 years old cleaned my American double set of tracks with steel wool. Got the track very shiny. My dad had to take both engines apart to remove tons of little pieces if steel wool. After that he purchased an American Flyer track cleaning car that think used a purp!e color fluid. A few years later he purchased me a 140 watt Weller soldering gun and I soldered all the tracks together then ran a file over joints. Also soldered wires every three foot of track and trains never slowed up at furtest point of where transformers were connected. When my oldest son was around 8 years old I reworked the old platform even I stalling rubber road bed. Had lights inside all of the buikdjngs. He ran the two trains no more then 5 minutes then maybe a minute the next day. He told me he rather play with vidio games. A few years later neither one of my brothers wanted the trains so I sold them.
Like everyone else here I loved this and immediately subscribed and gave a thumbs up. See you on the next one!
Oh, and you look like a Mitchell, (one of whom I am)
Can I use WD-40? I really need to clean my track...
CRC Contact cleaner...will pick up a can today form Home Depot.. Enjoyed the video immensely..Greetings from South Texas
Thank you Steve! Not the contact cleaner sir , you want 2-26 spray! The contact cleaner will not leave a protective coating on the rails!
Hi to all in SouthTexas :-)
Cheers Gregg.
I too did it wrong for many years. Attached a wipe stayed with Crc to track cleaning car two loops around. WOW running better lights not flickering can only do a little at a time the smell can make you buggy lol my 3 rail empire thanks you
Well there you go Robert! I'm glad you got some good results and interesting to see it working on 3 rail as well!
Thanks for watching.
Cheers Gregg.
Just bought a can of Inox at my local Ace Hardware. It works! God Bless Australian ingenuity.
Thats great Ron! Just a little now and then on different parts of the layout, and it will remove the dirt from the wheels too! The rag will usually get black strips from the rails, this is the dirt being removed from wheels so don't think the track is always dirty!
Thanks for the feedback :-)
Gregg .
Hi, just watched your video and you are absolutely right, had problems with a stuttering train after cleaning the track and train with isopropyl, bought WD40 specialist fast drying contact cleaner as I'm in the UK and it worked a treat, great advice, thanks
Thanks David! Glad to help.Just to clarify , that Innox is no a "contact cleaner" and the WD40 spray will not help with oxidation , as it is a "Cleaner" only. But if you're getting good results , then thats what your after!
Chers Gregg.
@@FishplateFilms
Hi Gregg, when you say oxidation do you mean rust and has anyone recommended a product I can find in the UK
@@1701celica Hi David, not rust as such, but the Nickel Silver does tarnish a little , but the main job of Innox , or CRC 2-26, is to help maintain a conductive path through dirt and oxidation. Contact cleaner will certainly clean well but leave it sterile, but if you're using traction tyres, then Inoxx is not for you:-). You can buy Innox from "Pendle Slot car racing" in Lancashire...a few viewers have mentioned that , so they are getting a few different customers!
Check out Charlie at "Chadwick Model Railways" who has tested Innox after watching my video.
Gregg :-)
@@FishplateFilms
Hi Gregg, thanks for the info, I'll check them out
Great rant! Found your channel and subscribed. The way I will clean my track from here on out! Thanks mate!
Hi Christopher,
Thanks for watching and I'm glad you enjoyed the video! Let me know how it goes for you.🙂
Cheers Gregg.
I've seen people use the CRC, I'll definitely be getting it now. Thanks for the kick in the ass.
LOL..no worries Joe ! You will be surprised at the results.
Cheers Gregg.
Hi Gregg I watched your INOX video a few years ago and always use it. It works well. Thanks a great video.
Thanks Ian! I'm glad it works well for you.
Gregg :-)
Thank you! isopropyl alcohol did not work for me and trains were stopping all the time in particular at slow speed. I used the US equivalent (CRC 2-26) and now all works perfectly!
You're welcome! Exactly the same happened to me when using IPA. I'm glad you got good results from the CRC and your trains now run how they should!
Cheers Gregg.
Classic! Back around 1960, Atlas rail was brass. I used to scrape sandpaper under a wooden block, which would work for a while. But the more I did it, the less the "cleaning" lasted. Switched to vinegar and got better results.
Thank you ! Vinegar?? The things we used to do ..LOL i remember brass track and I had some in my early days. We have moved on thank godness1
Gregg.
Well, I initially tried buying a special freight car that could clean the track whilst you ran the train. It came with some chemical that you would add to a cylindrical tank sitting vertically atop what was basically a flat car carrying a silver-colored cylindrical load (the cleaner reservoir). The fluid was gravity plumbed to a pair of lateral (spring-loaded) wipers. The idea was to pull this flat car around the track with a loco and it would automatically clean the rails. But the thing kept derailing at the switches.
Aside: I only had three locos, of which only one could pull the device. That was your ubiquitous Athearn F7. Mine was Pennsy 9506 (Brunswick). I also had a delicious Fleischmann PA in Warbonnet livery. The shell was exquisite, cast metal with applied handrails and a metal screen grating over the heat exchanger duct. But even with lead weights, it would lose traction, which was a shame cuz it had more powerful gearing than the Athearn. Also had a Lionel "Texas Special" FA-1 with the rubber-band transmission. Those bands would slip trying to pull the cleaner car. Frankly, that loco was junk. But it's the one that got be started in H0 modeling back in '59.
I'm sure you know the classic construction of the Athearn with the single three-pole motor in the center. But did you know that the Fleischmann didn't use rods at all. It had two independent propulsion modules, each with its own motor that sat directly over the bogey. The motors were mounted directly to the bogeys and each bogey could slip into the shell or quickly be dropped from the shell for gear lubrication. Every now and then, one of these appears on eBay. It's worth a fetch just to open one up and enjoy the construction.
But, I digress...
One day, someone at school showed me that dipping a copper penny into tomato ketchup (let it sit) could make the penny shiny. I investigated why and learned that the vinegar is mildly acidic. It is strong enough to de-oxidize the surface of copper and brass without being strong enough to hurt anything. And vinegar was (then) dirt cheap. Indeed, vinegar mixed with flour was used as a homemade brass cleaner during The Depression here in The States.
Sorry if this is too much information. I took your question marks to be an invite to elaborate.
But yeah. You're point about abrasives pitting the rail surface is well-taken.
@@TheCondoInRedondo Not at all! I had a rubber band drive RDC from Athearbogie/trn that was horrible! I remember Lima had a similar motor that sat on the bogie/truck. The motor ran in the same plane as the wheels , so no wrm drive and you could push them along and turn the motor...which is what we need today to get away from speed matching issues and locos fighting with each other. I wanted to buy a "Aztec" cleaning car but they have stopped making them , so I will try to find a used one.
Thanks for the interesting trip down memory lane.
Gregg .
Stay approachable, Gregg. That is the charm of your channel. You speak to us as if you're a neighbor. You also respond to feedback. That's the source of your popularity. You're chummy, the way Paul Hogan portrayed his character in the movies. It just shocks me when I hear your accent, yet see 'Merican heralds on the sides of your locomotives. I thought I'd see a twenty-six carriage Ghan or maybe a Great Southern and a gigantic knife, not necessarily in that sequence.
That said, I must admit I do have an NR, two EL, an A and a B for what it's worth. But they haul North American rolling stock, I'm afraid to admit. The NR is Austrains, I think. The others are Auscision. Thanks for your attention, Gregg.
I'm absorbing your tutelage on occupancy detection today.
Was a Signal elec Mechanic apprentice back in the 70's.
Was walking from the Clyde Depot with the Elec in charge to the Granville Signal Box back in the morning of the 18th of January 1977. Had just got to the Up end of Granville Station when we saw the Bridge come down. Not a nice day. Left the Railways soon after.
Interesting story wimbo! I don't blame you at all for that , not a good day at the office for many . I saw them making the movie up here in Brisbane in a shopping centre carpark!! You wouldn't know it watching the movie , and it wasn't a bad film and showed you all the things that went wrong. Thanks for watching.
Gregg.
Thank you for a great informative video, my track rubber just hit the rubbish bin, I always thought it was a bit harsh and abrasive for the tracks, will use the products you recommend in the future, I enjoy your rants,
regards
Thank you Lee and you're welcome! I'm glad you binned the rubber and you can now look forward to better running trains! Don't forget to go round and vacuum the track to get rid of all the rubber grit!
Cheers
Nice rant, it’s been a while since I cleaned my track. If the track gets dirty, I add one more locomotive to the consist so the train somewhat moves. I have used a product called Goo-Gone, only on the locomotives. Never really had any issues. Can’t wait to see more rants, hopefully after the rant you will find a happy place. Lol cheers from cold and snowy Nebraska.
Thanks Terry! I feel better now...LOL. DOn't know if I approve of your extra horsepower technique?? I've never used Goo gone so I can't comment on it. Ther may be more rants in the future???
Cheers Gregg.
Love your humor! Keep it up!
Thanks Paul! Glad you enjoy the videos.
Gregg :-)
Hi , wonderful ,I have just tried some contact cleaner just like you said and what a difference ,smooth at fast or deadly slow ,I used to put it on a faster speed or power just to get it around the track ,oh what a joy ,even the lights on my virgin train are brighter and I cant wait for it to go dark ,a standing ovation to you kind sir ,amazing ,and some thing that actually works very best wishes from the uk Brian.
Hi Brian , thanks for watching and I'm glad you got some good results! Just remember that contact cleaner will not leave a protective film on the rails like Innox or CRC will, so you might want to use one of those from time to time.
Cheers Gregg.
@@FishplateFilms Hi Gregg thanks for your reply , I will try crc or innox ,I used Servisol super 10 and it certainly made a huge difference and I was so pleased lol my very best wishes Brian
@@FishplateFilms HI Gregg managed to get some INOX MX3 Lubricant, I hope it is the correct one . I think it is as loads of people are using it on there Scale electrics model Railways and there tracks .and they are not giving it away it cost £10 for INOX MX3 Lubricant, 60ml, lol but people are raving about it ,and I will after use it well and not waste it ,thanks again Brian
@@mrmusdtard2 Hi Brian, thats the one! A can will last you a decade easy...use the plastic tube in the nozzle, and spray 2 tiny patches on a rag , then run along the track and see how black it gets! I keep using the same rags( i have little folded pieces everywhere) until they are filthy. Once you get the rails clean, keep rags with Innox on them as it will stay on them . You'll always get little dark lines , as dirt is always falling and the Innox will get dirt off the wheels too..it's a on going process but you will work out a routine that suits you.
Gregg :-)
Great work mate- you're the evangelist of track cleaning😍😍😍 Old South Wales , Pembrokeshire .
Thanks Fred! All i need now is a choir ..LOL Have mercy on your soul brother:=[). Glad you enjoyed it sir.
CHeers Gregg.
Great video Gregg, love the rants. Just ordered some CRC 2-26. Ive been pretty fortunate on my track staying fairly clean but it is due and I am staying away from the IPA. - Steve
Thanks Steve! Just use a little and you will see the difference! Glad you liked the video and keep the IPA away from your rails!
Cheers Gregg.
@@FishplateFilms thanks again Gregg. Can’t wait to try it when it arrives. I’ve got a hidden reversing loop that will eventually be very difficult to clean once scenery is complete. If I can have the trains clean most of it for me - problem solved! - Steve
Excellent, loved the presentation. helped me heaps - Thanks.
Thanks Trevor! Glad you liked it and got some good tips!
Cheers Gregg.
Haha great advice and even better delivery 😂😂
Thank you ! Glad you liked it .
Cheers Gregg.
I once thought you had Kangaroo's loose in the top paddock but it's now very obvious you have all your kangaroos well under control.... I like it. :) Nice work.
LOL...there are a few Roos that get out now and then Alan>>LOL Glad you like the video and thanks for watching.
Gregg.
@@FishplateFilms My pleasure Gregg. Am watching your update program at this very minute. Awesome!
Very good video. I have used in the past a pencil rubber then wipe off the rails with a soft cloth. I am about to build a small layout for my Grandchild and the stored rail I have is oxidised so will use inox to clean it and the wheels of the rolling stock. I like the no nonsense language and to the point presentation. One thing that the rest of the cleaning videos do not mention is that the rails are a circuit and should be treated as such. Thanks.
Thank you Bob! I'm glad you enjoyed the video and got some tips from it .I appreciate the positive comments also.
Cheers Gregg.
😅😂😄LOVE IT YOU MADE A GOOD POINT! I agree those are really bad for your track, I've gone to using a nickel on the track to clean it, as this is the same thing as our nickel/silver and this fill in those scratches, (if any) but the CRC is something that hood just don't forget the locomotive wheels .... thanks for sharing....Jack 👍
Thanks Jack! No Nickels down here ..LOL Interesting idea? The Innox is picked up by the wheels and cleans them as trains go along the track. The wiping the track removes the dirt from the wheels so it's just an ongoing process.
Gregg :-)
@@FishplateFilms looks like I need to send you some!
Probaly the most Aussie video about model trains out there.
LOL...is that a good thing or bad ??
Thanks for watching.
Gregg.
G'day, Mate ! A f*cking good thing for sure xD
@@esunisen3862 LOL...well thank you! Glad you enjoyed it.
Gregg.
Watched a few videos and read a few articles about dos and don'ts - I tried your method and so far so good. My contact cleaner is for moving contact parts - I tried a dirty piece of track and so far it is very smooth. Fingers crossed. Easier than having to vacuum up after scrubbing!!
Glad to hear it! It will only improve as you use it.
Thanks for the feedback.
Gregg.
Subbed Marietta, Ga. USA. Thanks for the tips! N Scale modeler here.
My pleasure Lance! Give it a go and let me know how it goes! You won't need much at all for N scale!
Cheers Gregg.