Track Cleaning Techniques | Workbench Wednesday
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2023
- This week's Workbench Wednesday is a quick demonstration of the materials and techniques I use to keep the track clean and the trains running smoothly on the Thunder Mesa Layout.
Thanks for watching!
Dave
No-Ox ID A-Special: a.co/d/hMcZ4qg
Graphite sticks: a.co/d/fW59zhX
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You even make maintenance interesting.
That's high praise
Nice layout and a great home made trackleaner using a cork. Instead of using No ox, I use Inox mp3. Similar result to No ox but because it is an oil, it spreads around the layout and causes the dirt to be conductive. You can also clean the track as you do with it using your cloth on the stick. I have been using Inox for about 40 years and have never needed to clean my wheels . The dirt ends up on the track and stays conductive. My layout is H0.
Good tip!
For the really tough spots I like a nickel ( 5 cent) is the sane as the track and cleans too filling in the scratches too.
Thanks for sharing this with us man, even if it's not a glamorous topic. Sometimes if feel like track maintenance doesn't get talked about enough.
On a side note: The wax and the graphite remind me of doing maintenance on the RR museums loop. We'd grease the inside of tracks once a week to protect the rails and flanges from grinding to dust. The older volunteers would call the metal shavings, "Fairy Dust."
Trained mice in little orange reflective outfits
You might not be able to see them especially in N scale but they are there ahahaha
Track cleaning is so critical, it makes the train running experience so much better. Thanks for sharing. I will definitely try it out.
I was told years ago, instead of tee shirt material. Use Handi-wipes. Also, if you can find a used (new is utterly too expensive) a Centerline TrackCleaner car. I've gone a step further, and have an old gondola, with the insides cut out, fitted over the CenterLine car.
That rod looks like a gun cleaning rod. Thanks for the great tip.
I was scratching my head, trying to think about where I’ve seen one of those rods. Thanks for mentioning that! I guess I’ll be out buying another Hoppe’s kit.
Yes, it was for a .22. Perfect for this application.
Thanks for this. I resurrected a 22 year old micro layout with No-Ox. It too was a victim of years of Brite Boy havoc. What were we thinking!!!. After cleaning the track with the same mineral spirits you used, the No Ox was applied. Now the finicky little On30 Porters (like yours) run all over the place including old style Atlas non powered turnout frogs. The only thing I did different than you was to run the trains and no cleanup the next day. Have not had to clean track now for several months and no more embarrassing stalls. Doc Tom
Very good advice, but I have a new one for you. I used to have an HO layout with about 200 ft of main line on it. I developed a method of keeping the mainline clean that, to my surprise, actually worked. My method requires 1 piece of rolling stock (I used a cheap boxcar), 2 roofing nails, 2 light compression springs and a piece of 1/8" masonite. All that I did was cut the piece of masonite a little wider than the rails and about 2" long. I then glued the heads of the roofing nails to the masonite along the centerline of the masonite. At that point, I drilled 2 holes in the bottom of the boxcar to align with the nails. All that is required at this point was to place a light spring (this takes some experimentation) on each nail, insert the nails into the holes in the boxcar and then place it on the track. Whenever I wanted to clean the track, I just placed the boxcar in a consist and ran it around the track a few times. It was amazing how efficient that this was in cleaning the track. It doesn't really work on spur very well, but it worked very well on the main lines. I used this method for years and it never failed me. A very cheap solution.
I really appreciate the video. This is very useful information before I dive too far into my new On30 project.
I am a dead rail railroader and almost did not watch, however it intrigued me what you do because we do have a club module that runs both track and dead rail power. Thank you for the good advice!
👍👍Great tips Dave! I will most certainly give the mineral spirit a try for cleaning my tracks and wheels. Thanks 🚂🚂
Your technique worked great! Thanks for the tips.
Back in my computer operator days, IBM supplied us with these nice hard cotton blocks we used to clean 3420 tape drives. How I wish I had a few boxes of those.......at times we had 40-50 boxes in the supply room!!!
Good topic
I clean my g scale track with wet wipes for the track and q-tips with a dab of water for the locomotive wheels. It works really well!
i use lysol handi wipes they do a good job for me
Interesting track cleaner👍👍👍
Great tips!
This is a subject that really needs some real research.
As far as I know there has never been a true double blind study of what track cleaning system is the best.
There have been several studies, but none have been double blind, and hence are prone to preconceptions and bias.
Something else to consider , any liquid cleaner disolves and loosens the dirt but over time washes that dirt down into the rail joiners causing bad connections
Hi Dave. So… exactly what I do! Except I almost never clean my track. When I was using aluminum well. I had to clean daily. Twice on Sunday. I had an LGB track cleaning locomotive that cost $600. It did a really good job. I had to run it for about a half hour before I could run anything else! Brass rail is much better. In this case, you will need to clean it like maybe twice a week! So nickel silver! And I’ve been buying my track from Llagas creek. They use a nickel alloy, I forget the exact name, its used for guitar, frets. No matter. As you know half of my railroad is outside. There’s probably about 12 inches worth of rails that I’ve ever cleaned. OK let’s not exaggerates. It’s probably more like 10 feet. Just to get off stuff like bug guts. And grapes. Snail slime. Bird poop. I have track that’s been outside for three years and I’ve never once cleaned it and it’s still working fine. Now the fact that my locomotives weigh 30 pounds probably has something to do with that. Anyway, I am using mineral spirits when needed. And then I tried the noox stuff. And I must say it does work great. I guess. Because as I say, I really have never had a problem. The one problem I did run into with the wax is when I put it on my 3% grade I developed quite a bit of wheel slip. So I took some mineral spirits and took it right back off. Everywhere else I’ve never had a problem with it, but like I say, I’ve never really had a problem anywhere. One thing I am using that wax for, and it’s brilliant, is cleaning the contacts on my passenger cars for the lights. They tend to build up quite a bit of friction, making the train hard to move, again because it’s quite heavy. So I put that stuff on the backs of the wheels and on the contacts and wow does it make them slick. And the lights don’t flicker at all. I was planning to put some sort of keep alive on the passenger cars to prevent flickering but with the wax on the Contacts, it just isn’t even a problem. 🚀
The nickel silver alloy is C752. Costs $20,000. But for enough wire to make a bunch of code 225 or 250 rail. They roll the wire into rail on a thing deal machine. No clue. But they run the wire through rollers. I think all the manufacturers do the same thing.
Yup, with Large Scale, you definitely have wight on your side. My little On30 Porters need all the help they can get! A few people have mentioned slippage an grades with the NO OX. That's not something that had occurred to me since I don't really have any grades on the TMMC. Great tip on using the wax for pick-ups on lighted cars. I'll have to give that a try.
Like you said not a great subject and everyone has their thoughts about cleaning rail. Like the itea if the odorless mineral sperits. I've head something about it before but haven't tried it yet. And definitely not useing the bright boy is really bad. I have found a Nickle dose great to smooth out those scratches as it nocks them down and my trains do run better.😊
I really enjoy your attention to detail and the beautiful handcrafting of every aspect of your layout. Two questions: (1) could you attach a weighted cork wrapped in jersey (t-shirt) material and drag it behind one of your engines to clean the track or would that not apply enough pressure to thoroughly clean the track? (2) Have you ever considered using Sculptamold to build a shallow bas relief of rock formations/mountains on your backgrounds? I would be wary of using polyester cloth on your cleaning wand because (1) it’s not as absorbent as cotton, and (2) being made primarily of plastic depending on its composition, the mineral spirits may cause a plastic film to be transferred to your track, reducing your conductivity. Keep up the good work! Love the Gruesome Gulch area! 💀👻
The weighted cork idea probably would not work since it would end up getting caught on anything and everything (like turnout points/frogs, stray ballast, etc) and causing the train to derail. I'm not a big fan of shallow relief on the backdrop. Shallow relief means shallow shadows so it always just looks like what it is unless you go back and paint in deeper shadows - and then, you might as well just paint them on the backdrop. Good point on the polyester! I'll stick to cotton.
@@ThunderMesaStudio I imagine with your abilities you’d be able to devise a track cleaning boxcar complete with tiny cycling scrubbers, a reservoir of cleaning fluid, and even little polishing buffers! I was suggesting combining the bas relief WITH the scenic painting. Most if not all other layouts I’ve seen do not gracefully transition the actual 3D sculptures to the background; atmospheric perspective is great as long as you know how to do it well. Clearly with your background and experience you know how to make a seamless transition. I was just wondering if another step between full 3D and flat would make the transition completely flawless. Thanks for answering!
Dave, Have you videoed a build of a Water Tank? If so, can you lead me to that video
He has a really cool water tank build in his Gruesome Gulch R.R. videos.
Learned alot about track cleaning in this one. Will diffently follow your advice. I have seen were they use a piece of wood to clean track any thoughts on that one?
Thanks for sharing.
GOD BLESS 🚂💖🚂💖🚂💖🚂💖
The one technique you didn't speak about is one you cannot use: cover the layout when not in use, to avoid any dust.
Otherwise, I applied graphite on all tracks, and if I don't drive trains often, contact is good enough to no need for new cleaning on most parts.
Great content thank you for the information. I have switched to cleaning with LO Mineral Sprits and it has made all the difference. I do have a problem which I am not sure you can assist with as I am brand new here but I’ll ask anyway and perhaps if you cannot assist you might steer me in the right direction. My display is a temporary Christmas display at this time. I run two O Gage Lionel trolleys on two separate lengths of 8’ track . One trolley has issues while running at low speed . which I find prefer for a trolley and especially going a short distance. This happens no matter which track I put it on. The other trolley (Same make and model) runs as slow as I need and then some. I look forward to your input and or direction. Happy New Year!
Also curious what you did for your various cacti for your desert scenery. I'm in the Phoenix Metro Area and want to do a fictional town somewhere outside of the Valley served by both Santa Fe and the SP in the 80s and 90s and am having a hard time finding convincing desert vegetation in HO.
I got odorless paint thinner because the guy at the hardware store said it’s exactly the same thing. Is he right or should I have gotten mineral spirits instead?
What about a dry lint free cloth is that ok ?
That will get some of the deposits off, but not the tougher ones.
I really like your technique here, ima use this for my own cleaning tool. I Was just asking in my model railroad groups what was the best track cleaning solvent, and like you said I've got so many different answers and I've just purchased a bottle of this orderless mineral spirits but people have said that it's not a good idea either So what is there out there that cleans the rails properly?
For those of us using molded roadbed track like Kato Unitrack and other systems, how would you recommend we best go about it? I do have the mineral spirits for cleaning the flux off purchased resin shells, but I'm concerned it will damage the plastic ties and roadbed on my Kato track.
Thx for another interesting / informative video. I did read one persons dislike for NOOX as it made their grades difficult for his trains (slipping). Did you encounter any issues?
Why is it that I have N scale in an unfinished dusty basement and I never have to clean my track? If I don’t operate for say a month then a quick wipe down of dust. But as long as I run my trains on a 16x12 layout once a week track cleaning is not part of my maintenance. Yet I know people that spend more time cleaning track then running trains.
How about polishing the rail head? Many people swear by burnishing, to a high luster, the rail head. I haven't done this, but they use a stainless steel washer to burnish the rail heads.
I've heard any metal still causes scratches . S.S is a harder metal than the rails and therefor scratched . I've been told wood actually does a better job at polishing the rails
At about 6:30 in the video, when you were cleaning near a turnout, I noticed that you'd added a "target" next to the caboose industries turnout throw. Is this something new, or a one-off experiment? Might be a good subject for a video.
That is the target that comes with that kind of Caboose ground throw. But it's the only one I've installed.
Ive used lighter fluid, what do you think of that for track cleaner?
Dosent the alcohal evaporate anyway ?
Quite so. Also, if it was conductive, surely that is not a bad thing? Not convinced about the advice in this video.
I have read about track cleaning cars with vertikal sliding "wooden" blocks( composit typ of material, just dont remember the term). I wonder if these old scool things are effectiv or vanished with reason
The blocks were usually masonite or hardboard of some sort. Problem is, they are abrasive, just not as abrasive as the Bright Boy.
@@ThunderMesaStudio thank you . I did not know these are abrasive. Another tool to avoid...
Was that a rifle cleaning rod?
The ultimate secret to track cleaning is buying new track every month 🤣
That could get expensive!
Sorry but this is off topic but do you have a tutorial or would you share on how you do your cactuses (cacti).
Search my page under "Saguaro"
Howdy Dave,
THE MOST IMPORTANT TRACK CLEANING TOOL YOU FAILED TO INCLUDE HERE.😫
When we Gandy-Dancers attend Train Shows, Railroad Museums, or visit our favorite local train or hobby shops ALWAYS pickup a Rail Road (model rails are permissible) Wall Hanging Calendar.🤨
You read me right! When doing your top of the year calendar purchases seek out a large print Train Picture Calendar. Then sit back before the year starts mark in big bold letters the regular dates you will be embarrassed to spend time with your track and trains. Spend cleaning time.👷⛏️
With the same day or evening each week or month, for track & wheel set, cleaning you will never have to worry about GUNK.😝
Jim in N.Y.
The jury on NO-OX-ID is still out for me. I cleaned my track with CRC contact cleaner, then buffed the track with my Dremel, then applied NO OX and within a week the track was filthy. However none of my engines stalled, so I guess it was conducting fine. So I don’t know where I stand with it.
Just. Run. The. Engine. Tyats What. Grano. Pa. Dixpd