I never posted a video on my channel about it but I also tried NoOxID on a small test track that I set up just for that purpose. It was all brand new Kato Unitrack and putting the NoOxID on it didn't work out well for me at all. I had pickup issues on both DC and DCC no matter how carefully and lightly I attempted to apply it. Thankfully it was easy enough to strip back off since it was only a small track of loose pieces not anchored down to anything but it was a larger pain cleaning it off of my test locomotives. And for me one of the larger things was that it attracted dust out of the air. Which, in my area, is a big deal since it's just dusty where I live. Not I just use odorless mineral spirits and a clean lint free cloth and just do so regularly. When it comes to flash fire attempts I don't believe I have ever come close to a vapor saturation point even remotely dangerous. Same with using isopropyl alcohol. Now gasoline? Yeah I think i'd draw the line on that one.
Hey Larry! I enjoyed this video very much. I work at Tony's Train Exchange and I can tell you that not only is Larry Maier a very accomplished and experienced model railroader, but he is a brilliant engineer as well. If he recommends the DeoxIT for cleaning tracks, then he has thoroughly tested it and knows that it works extremely well without pretty much any of the drawbacks of the other cleaning solutions widely used to clean tracks. Our CMX Clean Machine track cleaning car is a perfect way to dispense this solution and clean your rails at the same time. We also use the DeoxIT all the time when working on locos after we do repairs or upgrades to DCC or Sound for customers, and it is truly an amazing product. It can instantly improve conductivity on even some of the oldest and most troublesome locos. I'll look forward to seeing your follow up video on how this worked on your helix.
Pity you lot at Tony's Train Exchanges do not reply to emails and that orders paid for are still not completely delivered after 9 months and numerous e mails. Worst company ever.
This is a saddening comment on Tony's Trains and from my experience, I must say I have had a much differing response from TTE. I have contacted them by e-mail on several occasions and have always had rapid response. Further, what purchases I have made from TTE have been filled and shipped in a very timely manner, averaging less than 7-10 working days. IMO, of course, I find these folk to be responsive, helpful and reliable.
@@billdryden6275 You can read the full story of my review of Tony's Train Xchange on 'Yelp' under their banner Ben. Ordered 23rd march still not completed on 26th December
An Aussie channel recommended INOX MX3 a while. We have tried it on the club's N gauge layout, Wickwar. We apply it, very sparingly, with pieces of 2mm card and then go over it again with some clean pieces of card to remove any excess. It has given good results over the past season.
Have been using INOX for a few years now and it’s great. Yes I made some mistakes by applying too much but got it right. I keep a lint free piece of material with INOX on it and just wipe the tracks occasionally. I had to cover the layout because of house renovation works for 8 months. I took the covers off eventually and without touching the rails with anything trains ran perfectly. I will never use anything else again and I would advise those that can’t get it right to stop and think about what you are doing. To say you don’t need much is an understatement.
Hi Larry! Thanks for this presentation. Track cleaning is always an interesting issue. I remember when Wahl clipper oil was first suggested, it was controversial then and never stopped generating comment. One of my layouts is a display layout in a preserved depot with no climate control, so the doors are open during most operations. I used to use Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) for track cleaning and had good results, but in the last few years I have gone to using CRC 2-26 Precision Cleaner and Lubricant. Yes, it says it is a "lubricant" and obviously has petrochemicals in its formula, BUT I haven't seen it diminish tractive effort (but both my display layout and home layout don't have heavy grades). It comes in a spray can but I don't spray directly on the track, I use rags from old t-shirts. I spray the cleaner onto the rag and then swipe it along a section of track. The wheels carry the cleaner around the layout. Because of the open nature of the display I still have to periodically wipe along the track to reduce the accumulated gunk, but it wipes right off. I get my 2-26 at the local Home Depot (Electrical Dept) for less than 1/3rd of the item you recommend.
Couple things to consider... Mohs Scale of hardness when using some type of "track rubber." Nickel is a 4 on the scale, anything harder than that can scratch your rails. Masonite is a 2-3 on the scale so no harm will come of the rails. You can scrub the rails with Masonite as hard as you want and no damage should come to the rails in terms of scratches. One other thing to consider is humidity. Water vapor in the air (which is "polar") combines with the metals to attract dust, dirt and oxidizes the rails over time. A dehumidifier will help reduce these effects. Dehumidifier also helps with benchwork warping and prevents mold and mildew.
Two thumbs up! It's always good to get information on track cleaning dos and don'ts. Let's face it, NO ONE gets into this hobby so they can can enjoy the opportunity to clean tracks!
As soon as you pointed out that NO-OX-ID is a grease, I did the biggest face-palm ever. How could anyone think that greasing your track is a good idea?
I've used DeOxit for decades on my audio system. It definitely makes a difference. An audiophile from Japan came over for a listen and commented that he thought the right channel sounded better, clearer. I had only gotten around to cleaning all the right channel connections with DeOxit. I've used DeOxit in my model railroad too, although I was using it straight out of the bottle, which did build up some gunk over time (years), and ironically, seemed to actually improve traction even though the gunk was there. Electrical conductivity was still excellent however. I've never tried diluting it. I would also be careful what kind of isopropyl alcohol is used for dilution. Many isopropyl alcohol products are "rubbing" alcohol and contain some lubricants which we don't want on the tracks. Isopropyl alcohol is also highly flammable.
Hi Larry, I very occasionally, once a year or less, I put a tiny amount of Inox (a polarising spray) on a small piece of rag and wipe over my rails. I use a track rubber only to clean up after ballasting/painting. Otherwise a wipe with a champagne cork lifts any dirty spots and polishes the rails. It is easy to hold and covers both rails at once. When it gets dirty you cut a thin wafer off the end (or drink more champagne). Have a Merry Christmas, best wishes, Peter from downunder.
Interesting video. I have to wonder how much of the tractive effort loss is due to user error in application. CAIG, the makers of DeoxIt, state that this product is a conductive lubricant, just as No-Ox-ID is. On the other hand, Sanchem says that No-Ox-ID paste can be used in situations where you definitely wouldn't want any possibility of additional slippage, like securing guy wires and other clamped or screwed "industrial" fittings. Seems at first glance like six one, half-a-dozen the other...
I start with small vacuum to all the rails; using natural dusting brush. Then light application of CRC 6-56 (displaces, penetrates, protects). Zero VOC’s; with micro fiber cloths, or t shirts. Use as little as it takes to do the job (this is always the key with anything used on track).. Sometimes use alcohol and m. spirits; but ONLY on track that has not been installed on the layout. Older, used track generally. So there. I clean and electrically condition track perfectly before using on layout. Then going forward, all that is ever needed is vacuuming and fluid cleaning. I do use No-Ox ID; but as instructed (thin application and wiped well so no grease residue is left). Results? less light flickering and smooth running engines....
Great video, Larry - thanks! I first used No-Ox-ID in April of 2022, right after Ron gave his glowing recommendation. Overall, I've been very pleased with the results. I started by cleaning all of my track thoroughly with mineral spirits; then I applied a *thin* film of No-Ox-ID to about 3 inches of track, then ran a locomotive over all of my track for about 8 hours. Finally, I wiped the excess No-Ox-ID off of all of my track. I have not had to clean my track since - just over 18 months now. I've never had an issue with traction, probably because I have quite a small layout and a 10 car consist is extraordinarily long. That said, I am mindful of the long-term accumulation of dust on the track, so I will wait eagerly for your update.
I maybe wrong--as I have been on several occasions--but the way I took it from Ron's No-Ox-Id video is that the No-Ox-Id was to be applied (by finger) to all the track--not just 3 inches--and then let the locos spread it over the layout. Maybe that's where I made my mistake and applied a very light sheen (as instructed to do in Ron's video) to every piece of track and not just 3-inches of track.
I honestly don't remember if I got the idea from Ron's video or from somewhere else (sad, what's happened to my brain!), but I clearly recall reading *somewhere* that (a) you should just apply a thin film to a few inches of track, (b) let the loco spread the no-ox-id over the rest of the track, and (c) wipe all the track lightly to remove any remaining excess.
@@rwissbaum9849 Thank you for that info. I'll do that and see if that takes care of my skid marks on the rails after only a week after applying the No-Ox-Id. I have so much black gunk on my cotton cloths that it takes me approximately 3 wipes to remove it all. But this way I'll get a fresh start with what you recommended and see if that takes care of the issue I'm currently haviing.
I too have had excellent experiences with the No-Ox-ID A-Special for over 4 years on a 13 x 28 layout w/ a center peninsula. Note the “A-Special” designation and IF PROPERLY APPLIED. After the 1st application, some black residue forms as the No-Ox cleans gunk off the wheels. But even the residue seems conductive for a long time. After the 1st couple of cleanings, the black residue decreases and manly forms on rail rough spots. I’m cleaning track about twice a year. In between, I do run a vacuum car over the layout with frequency depending on construction dust etc. This DCC layout is run continuously for an average of 12 hours only on weekends. The ruling grade is 2% on the helix. We run 12-15 car trains or 20 car trains double heading.
Damn. I don't even currently have a working layout. But, I work in the electronics and printed electronics industry and I could have told anyone who asked that the No-Ox-Id was the totally WRONG product for model railroad application. It's really designed for high friction male/female or pin connectors that have been given a tight fit for anti-vibration purposes and to keep out oxidization (oxygen contact) and for marine use/water proofing. Yes, its electrically conductive but its secondary function is as a petroleum based insulator. By the way, WD-40 has silicone in it. Silicone is a dielectric....and insulator. Very poor for current transfer. The De-Oxit products used to be marketed by Caig corporation as Pro-Gold....FANTASTIC product. I use the De-oxit product on electronic fuel injection system contacts. They have two levels of products. One for actually dissolving (electrolytically) the oxidation from the metals....but they have a dual use product that actually IMPROVES connectivity. I still do not know if it would cause slippage but its the best product system i have ever seen for what it does.
Hi Larry, I started using CRC2-26 on my large N Scale layout. It cut track cleaning to running my vac car around for dust. There was an occasional reapply on grades. But it worked great for me.
I have a three level around the room layout with a 2% nolix connecting the levels. I have used noox for about 10 years now. Many of the advocates for noox repeatedly say you must use a MICRO thin amount, not a greasy layer of the stuff. When I have had a few locos that lose pulling power I simply doublehead up the grade, just like the prototype. But I never have to take track cleaners to the rails with laborious reaching to the back of the layout etc. I suggest NOT taking ANYONE'S advice and try it for yourself on a test section of track. My layout sat for nearly 1 1/2 years with no use. When I went back locos would not run, the track was too dirty. With a VERY THIN application of nonox, and running my most reliable loco until it stopped and then adding a tiny amount more of nonox, I had all 60 of my locos running the entire length of my three levels in about an hour's time with no elbow grease invested. Just letting the loco do all the work. Good luck with any other cleaning method, and you might be convinced to try nonox.
Have you tried Inox MX3 with the Noch 60156 track cleaning pads........works a wonder. Remove the pads every now and again (when they look very dirty) wash them, allow to dry, respray the Inox mx3 on them and reattached to the cleaning car.
I operate a Marklin digtal system on stainless steel marklin C-track. ALL my loco's have rubber tyres. I do NOT (repeat do NOT) want to use abrasive blocks (creates micro groves). My track is not damaged, and is well looked after and in emaculate condition. I have watched hundreds of track cleaning video's and to be quite honest I am none the wiser. Totally confused. Some say "this" others say "that" and so on. Can someone who is an authority on this subject please tell me what cleaner to use that 1) is grease free 2) leaves no residue 3) does NOT damage rubber tyres, ànd 4) not create micro grooves in the track. Yes, I am looking for a product that meets ALL the 4 points above. There HAS to be a solution to this subject that just goes around-and-around in circles. Kind regards, from Keith Heuer, Cape Town, South Africa.
Lol…no ox I.D.? Lol…it’s NO OXIDE; get it? I’ve used this for decades on outdoor electrical connections. Who EVER thought it would be a good idea to grease the rails??!! Just idiocy.
Sorry, Larry but I have to disagree with you on at least two points. If you’re slathering on NO- OX ID on your track, you’re applying it incorrectly! One applies a very thin coating, which is followed by wiping it off immediately. My layout is located in a marine environment where corrosion occurs rapidly. Whereas before treatment, the tracks required aggressive cleaning with a bright boy every week, a light swipe with a lint free cloth (on this we agree) to remove dust and dirt on the track, I’m ready to run. As for using IPA, especially a 91% solution, you don’t think that’s flammable? I’d sooner use paint thinner! And remember, alcohol fires are invisible! Go back and do proper research before you espouse knowledge of the subject. Reread the article in Model Railroading .
I only use WD-40 Specialist Contact Cleaner. Spray some on a blue shop paper towel, wrap it around a small block, and rub it across the top of the rails. Also clean the wheels with it as well. We use this contact cleaner at work, and it performs very well.
I think in general having any conductive oil, grease or fluid along with other oils or cleaning stuff is very un-wise. About a year a go I spent a long time fixing a engine with dual motors. Wondering why the motors would spark and jerk often. My only guess is someone oiled the bearing with conductive oil, and before I got the engine it was no longer running, and the reversing electronic board needed to be repaired as well. All because conductive oil got into the motor brush contacts, shorting out the circuits. .
I have been using a piece of Veg tan leather glues to a little wood block with a stone ruse on it. Think stropping a razor it leaves a super fine finish on the rail almost mirror like over time.
I've used ronsonal lighter fuel (for wick lighters) for over a decade, never had an issue. A few drops on a cotton swab. Slowly rotate the swab as you run it along the rail heads. It's really hard to imagine a scenario wild enough for this to cause a fire. The main ingredient in DeOxit is mineral spirits, so it is very nearly just as flammable.
Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) is polar, so it will also attract dust and dirt. IPA also promotes microscopic electrical arcing, which causes the black crud that forms on the rails and gets dragged around by the wheels. You should use non-polar substances, which is why some model railroaders prefer mineral spirits. Since you mentioned flammability as a concern for mineral spirits, you should also be aware that IPA is also flammable.
IPA. Lol! Talk about fines and flammable! Come on Larry. Probably more flammable than the Mineral spirits. I’ll stick with the No odor mineral spirits and No ox ID. As it works awesome on my layout. Everything you showed is going to leave some dust especially the Masonite if you sand it. Can’t have your cake and eat it too. Why is it that old modelers are so stuck in their old ways and can’t accept new ways to do things? I really enjoy your videos, but totally disagree with your opinions on this one. Merry Christmas
Mineral spirits aren’t too bad although I’m not convinced that any of these organic solvents are something I want to breathe much of. The odorless forms usually have most of the really toxic compounds removed and I do have a bottle of artist grade odorless around here too. However from a safety perspective and relative flammability aside, I’d prefer IPA if I have to pick. Also I don’t do my sanding on the layout.
Larry, I have heard from Joe Fugate that Ipa will clean your rails because it's a good solvent, but it is polar and it has water in it. I will clean locomotive wheels with 91% alcohol but when cleaning rails I stick with mineral spirits and a lint free cloth. I have tried no ox id and I have mixed feelings about it. Yes it has worked but no no where close to a year before I'm cleaning track. Maybe I put to much on, I'm not sure .
I think anyone with a large layout cringes at the use of cloth. Every switch is a potential snag and trashes points. I for years have used the finest Sandflex blocks and a roller train with alcohol on the lead roller. On the other end i clean is loco wheels with alcohol AND then with CRC 2-26 on the wheels. With this film on all locos it spreads a small amount all around the layout. Note this includes all the switch engines. Works great.
If you go back and watch all the videos from Rons Trains and Things on NoOxID you will see that his tractive effort loss was only ONE car on his helix with a 2% grade. Furthermore, Ron stated that after 2 years in a dusty basement, it was the first time he had to go back and clean his track. So is two years between cleanings and a one-car loss on a 2% grade really a failure? Now I know that just because it worked for Ron does not mean that it will work for everyone.
Thank you, Larry. I appreciate your comments but have a different experience. NoOxID was a clear winner on my layout. I started using it about 2 years ago. Was tractive effort affected? Yes. Initially after application, 50% reduction in pulling power on 3% grade was noticed. However, after two days of drying on the track, traction was only down 10-15%. Are the tracks sticky? Compared to IPA, yes. Slathering the rales is not required. After two years, I have not done a full cleaning once. Rubbing alcohol "rub down" cleanings used to be required 3 times a year before NoOxID special was used. Will I clean my track again. Yes. I think the "dust and grime" point is valid. If I am cleaning my track once every 18 months or so and the trains run on demand after weeks of non-use, then I have my winner. History of my cleaning products: Pencil eraser -> Bright Boy -> Goo Gone -> Clipper oil -> IPA -> NoOxID.
Those that didnt get good results with No-ox ID used it wrong..i find it impossible for it not to work... i have a garage layout and l ive in the desert. I had givin up on it because it never ran well, if at all, constant cleaning with very temporary, like hours, results Disvovered No-ox id 6 months ago, trains run fantastic, had a temporary traction issue on grades, after about a week slippage was no longer an issue and trains still run flawlessly. If i start to see any sign of flickering or hesitation i run the CMX (dry) for a lap or 2 on the mains, wipe the spurs and the yard tracks with a tidy track and all is well...i try to vacuum everything every other.week or so..NOOX Id is nothing.short of a miracle fix and nobody can tell me any.different
Come on....be serious...IT SHOULD NEVER BE APPLIED SUCH THAT IT WOULD TAKE A WEEK TO CLEAN OFF... and its USE on track and its USE on switches that experience harsh weather are apples AND oranges.....my guess is that for track they are talking about a very light application that is rubbed in ,, almost rubbed off as far as a surface deposit....its Just to prevent oxidation of the metal surface
It took me a week to get that stuff off of my HO layout, locos and stock too. Thought it was ruined. NoOx is a NoGo for HO with any grade. Wanted to curse the promoters of it.
I have an AirDoctor next to my layout and I’m amazed that I never see any dust on my trees, water, buildings, and I’ve done very little in the way of track cleaning over these last 4 years.
As always great content. My two cents, I have had great results with NoOx ID. Again, there are lots of variables with use and application. Less is more. Ron mentioned this I believe and Steve I believe admitted he may have been heavy handed. From what I understand it helps with the microscopic pits in the rails from sparks and abrasion. I have a relatively small layout with consists of 7 or less cars. I don’t run them nearly enough but with NoOx ID I found from sessions with lots of no run time in between the tracks stayed very consistent with current for months to a year. Of course, using it doesn’t mean you’ll never have to clean again especially in an unfinished area like you mention. I am pleased with it. I know from my vintage synthesizer repairs and maintenance the detox it is great for electrical continuity so it makes sense to use for rails. May give it a try down the road. Thanks again.
Hi Larry. I came across a product called STRIKE HOLD, which was developed for the US armed forces in Afghanistan to keep dust and sand from fouling their firearms. It is a cleaner and lubricant but DRIES without a sticky residue. I bought some to use on my firearms, then decided to try it on my layout because of the non stickiness. I live in a coastal town of Yeppoon, Queensland Australia, and it is quite humid most of the time and as you can imagine has a lot of salt air as it is on the coast. I apply the Strike Hold by putting it on a lint free rag and wipe it on my tracks. I have a helix with a 2% grade and do not have any traction issues. I might run my trains if lucky maybe twice in two weeks, and I have not required to clean my track for 6 months. I used Inox beforehand, it was good but not nearly as good as Strike Hold. Cheers from Australia
Hi Larry and Merry Christmas to you and your family. I am glad that you are looking into this product and I look forward to the future results. Track cleaning is the bane of all model railroaders and a reliable solution would be wonderful.
Hi Larry, as always very insightful and informative. I will wait for your results and conclusion on the DEOXIT. I have been using Track and Rail Cleaner ACT-6006 by Aero-Car Hobby Lubricants. I've had great success wit it but would like your opinion on this product, i only have a small layout and I am getting ready to move and build a larger layout. Your thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks again, looking foward to the next video.
Could be that the problem people had with No Ox Id because they put too much on. I just purchased it and am looking forward to trying it after applying it the right way.
Good video, well timed for those in the northern hemisphere when winter stops outdoor play. I wrap a white cotton cloth around a sanding block and spray it with CRC electrical contact cleaner (Inox in UK, Australia, New Zealand) which is safe for plastics. I can reach every part of my track and can clean beside station platforms by flipping the sanding block on its side. Have a look at fishplate films on this subject. He is an electrical engineer but his video is hilarious as well as being very informative. I switched to CRC after watching his video.
Been using Oxi for three and my trains runs great. I rub on with my finger then I wipe with clean cloth . Bout every 4 to 5 months I clean with alcohol Then rub Oxi on the track and then I wipe! My trains smooth
Track maintenance is required regardless of how many trains pass per day. Even if the average is once per day, I would clean my tracks at least twice a year.
Hi Larry, Great Video and a Merry Christmas to you and your family. I also have to question weather NoOxID A Special is really conductive? I purchased a little jar, and using a brush painted some on a piece of paper. I then took my Volt Ohm meter and tried to read the resistance of that painted strip. The reading was infinity, so to me that is not conductive? The product I've been using for the past 10 years or so is called DeoxIt D5 in a spray can and is labelled as "Safe on Plastics". I use it the same way, but directly out of the can sprayed onto a lint free cleaning rag. I've also been using the DeOxIt D5 on the bronze contact strips that connect the stock rails to the point rails in Atlas Custom Line Switches, to help remove corrosion between the bronze strip and the rail. Also for the elbow grease method, I prefer the Cratex Cleaning Blocks, they seem less abrasive than the Bright Boys. Cheers, Rich S.
If I may address this question...the question and answer are misleading. No, if you try to conduct electricity through a glob of No-Ox it will not work. However, conductivity is not inhibited through a microscopic layer of No-Ox AND that layer does inhibit micro-arching and oxidation, both of which kill electrical conductivity. Similar is true of graphite, which Joe Fugate and many others use instead of No-Ox.
Hi @@RonsTrainsNThings As electrician, I can tell you, you cannot have something that is both a insulator and be conductive. Now true I can make a piece of wood conduct electricity, if I push 18,000 volts and 1,000 amps thought it, but on a model railroad using 12 volts and milliamps, I don't see grease as being a conductive substance. Now in your other example, graphite is conductive and that is why motor brushes are made from graphite along with a binder to hold the graphite together. Ron, I know you are sold on NoOxID A Special and if it's working for you, that's great, but like Larry mentions in his video, I do not wish to put any type of oil or grease on my rails as it will attract dust. As someone who's been in this hobby for over 50 years, I also went down the Wahl Hair Clipper Oil rabbit hole years ago. It worked until the rails started turning black from all the gunk that the oil was collecting. Bottom line, there is no way around regular maintenance, even on the prototype. That is why locomotives come into the shop every 92, 184 and 365 days for routine maintenance. Yes I know this, as that is my job working on the 1:1 scale trains as a locomotive electrician. Cheers, Rich S.
@@RWSBaden I KNOW only 2 things. First is the quote below from the company that produces No-Ox who can speak for it better than I--and according to that it is conductive. I clearly misspoke there. Second is that, if used correctly, it works and it has worked for years. "NO-OX-ID "A-SPECIAL Electrical Grade" is the electrical contact grease of choice for new electrical installations and maintenance. NO-OX-ID electrical contact lubricant (electrical contact grease) is an electrically conductive grease that keeps metals free from rust and corrosion. NO-OX-ID electrical contact grease has been used in the power industry for over 65 years to prevent corrosion in electrical connectors from low micro-power electronics to high voltage switchgear. NO-OX-ID A-Special is RoHS compliant! This product is also used as a battery terminal grease."
Hi Ron @@RonsTrainsNThings, At this point we're going to have to agree to disagree. In the above statement from the company, they are admitting their product is a grease manufactured to protect metal from rust and corrosion. Yes at work we also use a product on battery terminals to prevent corrosion, but you place the cable on the terminal first, then paint the corrosion product over top of the connection. Also if a product is electrically conductive, it does not matter how thick or thin the product layer is, so saying only thin layers of NO OX ID A Special is conductive is simply, silly. Like I mentioned earlier, if this product is working for you, great, I'm not telling you to stop using it. I'm merely stating I agree with Larry, I do not wish to add any type of grease or oil to my track. And from my tests, I've found this product is not conductive. So at this point like all disclaimers, Your Mileage May Vary. Cheers, Rich S.
I am going to use Deoxit on my layout what is the best way to clean the movable rails on the n scale turnouts? I need to have good contacts because they control the turn out led lights.
I use the DeOxIt solution to clean all electrical contacts. You can put it on a cotton swab, a piece of cloth, a microbrush, or a piece of paper towel and then run it between the points, wheels, electrical pickups, etc. Does a great job.
As I said i the video you use the full bottle of DeOxIt to 1 pint of IPA. You could use half a bottle of each, or 1/4 bottle of each, etc. Not exactly rocket science!
Not only collects dust but could potentially get up inside of you motor as well an the contacts an possible shorts could happen let alone damage as well to gears ect. The tiny bit you think will not cause trouble will build up over time an likely would be needed to clean the wheels regularly to keep buildup of the dirt an grease from doing damage a lot more. I love you videos an wish I had listened to my dad about this stuff too he was so very right as well too lol. Do they make a mini vac track cleaner and how do you keep the cleaner car from causing a shot if it's one big wet clean pad would not two small ones for each rail be more safe?
I have seen a track cleaner car with vac, I think it is made by one of the European companies. While a wet pad may conduct a small current across the rails it would depend on the liquid and even then would probably be too small to trip a circuit breaker or shut down a booster.
Almost every club I have visited or interviewed have said the best way to keep track clean is to run trains a lot more:):):)nnfun! Real tracks shine when they are used a lot....
It might not help in a big basement or attic layout, but for smaller rooms I've found that some good quality air purifiers really help keep dust off the track. I have never used any chemicals, only the rubber abrasive pads that come with the Tidy Track system about once a month. It's been running reliably for over 2 years.
My local club (Houston area) has standardized on mineral spirits as a track cleaner. We use a couple of drops on strips of cheesecloth mounted to either a track cleaning train the club owns or homemade PVC T-handles if cleaning by hand, & then dry it immediately after cleaning. Fumes aren’t ever an issue because we use it in such small amounts.
I thought I was going crazy. I used No ox ID as outlined in RTNT .- my track attracted alot of dust as a result of using this grease. alot of black grime. Thanks for sharing Larry. Happy New Year !
I will never use No Ox ID ever again. Within a week my track was filthy and lost a lot of tractive effort. I’ll just go back to Bachmann or Piko track cleaner.
Back in the old days when brass rail was the norm, I remember an article in MR that stated nickel-silver rail oxidizes but the oxide layer conducts electricity, where brass oxide does not. Track cleaning was much worse then because we had to keep something on the track to prevent oxidation. That might account for why some modelers want oils or a grease on the rails. Back then it made sense. Today dry rails are better.
I got in on the tail end of brass track, but fortunately side stepped it when I was introduced to nickel silver at my club. Saved me a lot of headaches I am sure.
Howdie Larry i wanted to pass on my thoughts on your Video I thought it was Seriously informative & you made some Great points.. I use NO-OX-ID only to clean the Ends of Slide Rails we're they butt up to the Stock Rail & I used it we're my Rails join in the Rail joiner in doing this I didn't have to power my Yard but eventually I will.. On all of my Track I use Inox Mx3 which is Non Toxic mater of fact the Inox i use, Larry can be used in Food Area's it says this on the Packaging the Reason I took to Inox was after watching Gregg's Fishplate Films videos on how the product was so affective when Gregg cleaned his Engine & Rollinstock I still used IPA for certain small parts of the layout so I hope Gregg don't Holler at me too much most to remove paint from Weathered Microtrains trains cars i wanted to add Larry i just bought a New Atlas Engine with DCC it wasn't wanting to run as I hoped it would but after a good cleaning with inox which took off a ton of black Gunk its running Normal & sounds pretty good Its Atlas SD-9 with ESU Lok Sound.. One stuff I absolutely positively WONT use & you said it Best Larry to use it your putting yourself & others at Risk & that's Mineral Spirits there's more than just your Railroad if your Railroad is in your home 🏡 Your Cloths Dryer, your Hot Water heater & lets not forget the Furnace especially if they're a Gas one spark from that stuff & its Game over I'm not really into using anything that can potentially be toxic especially if its used in the same place I live & sleep in.. If I was doing a fairly large layout using foam or I had to use products that you had to use to help build the layout I'd probably build it in large Work shed or small building we're I currently live in Apt. There's windows but not enough windows to vent properly but my hopes are to Expand in the near future.. But I'd surely like to give the product you mentioned a Try.. thanks Again for making this video hope you had a good Christmas Allen D
I was totally unaware that so many people had train cleaning issues. I ran big trains(Like coupler breaking long) in both N and HO, which seemed to keep the track clean, and never really had any problems. I did wipe the rails with a kitchen scrubber (the sponge side) wetted with 90% alcohol, but that was rarely, if ever, really needed. I cleaned the wheels on my cars and locos a few times a year with alcohol and Q-Tips. The only problems I ever had was back in the brass track HO days. I was a little kid(4) when I got my first layout, a neighbor put it together, it was sold as a kind of a kit. No rolling stock, just premade and painted scenery and track that needed to be laid. I passed it to a friend's little brother when I was about 10, the brass track had long been replaced by nickel-silver by then, ballasted, and the manual switches had been replaced with Atlas powered ones. I switched to N about 1969, and had a pretty large layout. Only the worst locos had any issues with "stuttering", and many of those wound up semi-permanently parked in the yard, or in the worst cases, made into dummies that did nothing but sit there and have a glowing headlight. Modeling PC made it easy to repaint a badly painted loco, spray it black and put PC decals on it, done.
Thanks for covering this most controversial of all model railroading topics. Everyone has their very own magic potion approach to track cleaning. Of course, there's always more than just the potion itself. The method of application is also important, as is the geography of the layout and the frequency of operations, among other variables. I look forward to your follow-up report on DeoxIT D100L. With your typical thoroughness, I'm sure that you will try to isolate as many peripheral factors as you can, so that whatever results you observe and share will be as reasonably scientific as can be obtained under the circumstances. One observation that might be relevant, if not unduly complicated to obtain, would be the actual track current consumption in respective trials, if you could temporarily fit your RRampmeter to the test track. Good luck with your trials!
I picked up some of that No-ox-id but have not used it on any track yet. Currently, I'm more interested in trying it on the pickups. I think it might be great to get better conduction and help to prevent (or at least slowdown) any wear of the copper strips.
Mineral spirits, then a VERY LIGHT bit of graphite. I pretty much never have to clean my track (other than after scenery construction), I just run a car with a Masonite pad slung under it wiper around once in a while to get the dust off. No-ox-ID was a disaster for me. Caused major wheel gunking.
Hi Larry. This is a great topic and I look forward to your follow up after your testing. Reading all the comments and many other discussions on this topics, it seems to me that there are three related but also different issues. 1. Initial and remedial cleaning -- that is, the best approach to restoring track/wheels to their clean state. 2. Electrical conductivity - what is the best approach for "treating" clean rails so that electrical performance is enhanced and arcing reduced. i.e. Joe Fugate's discussion of polar and non-polar solvents. 3. long-term performance - what is the best approach for reducing the need for remedial cleaning. It seems to me that there are many approaches to #1 that probably achieve similar results (hence many of the comments to this post). Re #2 - Fugate has introduced the idea of using products that reduce future micro-arching by paying attention to the polarity of the given cleaner or rail treatment. I do not have the background in materials engineering to assess these claims, but the scientific approach makes this convincing. #3 remains the holy grail. When folks comment re their suggested approaches, I would find if very helpful if they were clear whether or not their approach results in reduced requirements for remedial cleaning. My casual scan of the NoOXid supporters comments suggests that the benchmark in this area should be at least one-year between major cleans. John Geddes - Vancouver, Canada
Really? Really? What a dumb fucking question. Yeah, the material they use on the real thing is the same thing we use in the hobby! Definitely! And what happens when trains stop using the tracks? They definitely don’t trust!!11!1 duh. Moron.
Thanks Larry, here in the uk I use a product called Inox. This cleans up nicely used sparingly then wipe the track over to remove any excess. My layout is small but it works for me. Also it’s conductive, and helps contact on switching . I just have the cheapest Guagemaster type.
Using a Bright Boy causes deep visible scratches in the rail heads, won’t those ultimately make matters worse? You can always tell track thats virgin vs if it’s ever been touched by a bright boy.
I get the concern about flammability for all the normal reasons, but I'm curious how those reasons apply to use on model railroad track. Are you concerned about simple storage of the containers in your home? Use of the product in a non-ventilated space? Fear that a tiny spark from a low amperage system may set the layout on fire? I think the volatile vapors dissipate pretty quickly that I wouldn't imagine that a spark from a locomotive passing over the rails would ignite the tiny amount of liquid leftover on the rails from cleaning them, or am I wrong? I'm just trying to understand the concern, because all the normal stuff I'm well aware of and can manage like every other dangerous chemical I store and work with in my home. I would just like to make sure there's not something I'm missing about using mineral spirits as a cleaning agent for my track. Thanks for anyone's help.
I am more concerned with accidental spills since in North America many layouts are located in basements with furnaces with an open flame going in winter. In some cases the volatile portion may be heavier than air and accumulates near the ground where a pilot flame could ignite it. There is also the fact that many of these flammables contain very nasty toxic compounds. Mineral spirits often contain benzene unless you buy highly refined artist grade. IPA on the other hand is fairly benign as long as you don’t sit around huffing it and the 70% most people end up using has a much higher flash point than the value you see online for the 100% solution. I didn’t do a deep dive into those considerations but plan to mention it in my opening next time.
@@TheDCCGuy Thank you for your response, Larry. I'll bear that in mind and will give IPA a try. Love your channel and appreciate all the work you put into it.
I have been watching some of your videos this past year. You may have talked about it, but this video brought some questions up. I finished putting down the last piece of track yesterday. I'm ready to start weathering the track and ties. I was going to spray a thin coat of paint on the track. Then clean it off with paint thinner. But you make a great point about flammable. What do you recommend for this next step.
Video #153 is on painting track. I use acrylic paint and run a cork block over it before it hardens which works well. If it dries hard you may get it off with a wood or hardboard block but in those cases it sometimes requires IPA, spirits, or an abrasive block. I only use those as an absolute last resort.
Larry, The Masonite slider works fantastic for me. (no chemicals, abrasives, greases or over complicated/problematic cleaning cars). I choose to use them on cars with a drop down style side frame which disguises them. They run continuously and my rails look perfect. The other advantage is they clean hard to reach areas like tunnels. They are also easy/cheap to make and easy to maintain. If your rails are in really bad/neglected shape, use one of the other methods to get them reasonably clean and then switch over to Masonite which gently polishes the rails. Thanks for the idea!! They work for me and I think it's absolutely the perfect solution. I've thought about rubbing the Masonite surface with a carpenter's pencil (ie graphite) but haven't found a need to.
Dear Larry, great video, love the comparison of all these different track cleaning techniques. Definitely will look into the DeoxIT. Never used bright boys, try to avoid any abrasive on the track. The last years I’ve acquired several bundles of old track at thrift stores. Depending on the original manufacturer source of the tracks, I first attempt to determine if we’re talking nickel-silver rail. Then I give ‘m a first thorough cleaning with a tiny bit of silver polish product. That really helps getting rid of the accumulated dust and gunk over the years. Must add here that some of those tracks looked just as black as the sleepers when I first got them. After this thorough rinse and polish I clean off the residue with a mixture of lukewarm demineralized water, a drop of dish soap and a tad of alcohol. Next step is to do the lint free cloth rub. Then the track is back into shape, the railhead running surface as smooth as a mirror and no gunk remains. Cheerio
I great presentation. I am suspect about using any abrasive on my track secodary to it creating microcavitation of the rails and promoting the micro-arcing described by Joe Fugate. Also, from reading his articles, I've tried to keep to nonpolar solvents. Unfortunately, most nonpolar solvents are flammable.
I look forward to hearing your results with DeoxIT. I have tried NoOX ID and CRC etc. etc. I've jotted this down on my running list so I don't forget to check back! Thanks for the great content.
It's my personal opinion of over 60 years as a model railroadering. There's no such thing that makes any model railroadering track you don't have to clean. There's no such thing. It's a mith. Brass, steel, even plastic rail has to be cleaned at some point or some section will have to be touched up occasionally. You can't get around it. I do all scale's. It's just something has to do. Cleaning your track is just something everyone has to do. Some track has to be cleaned more often. I use a track eraser, and a track monkey on the last car to be pulled around when running trains. About once a month I have to do a touch up cleaning on a spot that prevents good contact to get the train through. It cheaper than these other methods and less time consuming. And I'm running trains 6-8 hours every day running trains in both directions. I stay with what I actually knows what works for me. Using the KISS system, Keep It Simple Stupid. I taught the KISS system for four years in the Air Force training people for years. I just know what works, cost effective and less effort you are wasting time and money on that really doesn't work and I've used them all. For the last 14 years running steel track I do a touch up on a small section with a track eraser maybe once every two or three months if not 6 months. I have longer time running trains and less derailings. I just don't have them. You can decide for your self as everyone should. I choose over 14 years old. It works for me personally.
Watching this reminds me of how many different things I've tried over the years. Currently using NO-OX with good results. I was also concerned about the possibility of slippage in my helix but have not noticed any nor have I had any noticeable difference in dust collection on the rails. That said, I am going to look into that DeOxIT.
I really liked Steve Brown, but then he disappeared. I have yet to put nay kind of gunk on my track. Years ago I had all brass until they stopped producing it, and it never oxidized. Then nickel silver came out and it is one headache after another, but running your trains once a week helps. Bright Boy works the best by far.
The tracks (Fleischmann) on my N-scale model railroad are about 35 years old. So far I used a cleaning block (NOCH 60140) for severe pollution areas and a cleaning car (ROCO 46400) in combination with a Fleischmann rail cleaning locomotive (Fleischmann 796805) for the removal of dust. I never used any liquids or sandpaper. the only problem I sometimes face is the contamination of switches. In those situations I use a cotton swab (without liquid) to remove the dirt. I also use the cleaning block for the cleaning of the wheels on the locomotives. I have no experience with tracks of other manufacturers so I don't have any idee of the methods I use are successful.
We've had really good luck with DeoxIT and Atlas Conducta-lube for cleaning locomotive power pickups. I suspect a lot of automotive contact cleaners would be comparable but much cheaper but have not personally used them. Music stores often sell some of the DeoxIT products too.
I bought some "Rail-zip" for my slot car track....What CRAP. None of my cars would run after I cleaned the rails with it! I had to use other stuff to get the damn "Rail-zip" OFF.
Yeah, i stopped using that "NoOxide " ,when i went to wipe my tracks due to trains slipping too much. What started as a clean bright white cloth was black ,grey and brown after 25 minutes of wiping,lol. The use of the cork road bed works well for me, so i'm sticking to that.However... i had totally forgotten, that i have one of those old MDC Box cabs w/ track cleaning equipment and it works great . ....I'll use that too,lol.
As an electronics tech, I have used Caig De ox for over 20 years on all sorts of applications with great results. On a whim,I used it to treat my Lionel Super O track layout over 3 years ago. As you are probably aware, Lionel units using AC voltage will create plenty of buildup on the track. I was amazed at how much better the trains ran and the track has remained far cleaner than previously.
Good to ear that, it gives me hope going into this test on my layout. I spent about an hour yesterday cleaning the rails with my wet scrap of tee shirt and IPA and plan to apply the DeOxIT today.
I restore furniture and use lacquer, Mek, xylene , mineral spirits, etc on the daily. I cannot see the danger of using a small can of thinner with a little bit on a rag. The fumes are minimal unless you soak an entire rag and it is a superior cleaner. You then take the small pink bottle and pour it into a larger pint bottle and added flammable alcohol.
I never posted a video on my channel about it but I also tried NoOxID on a small test track that I set up just for that purpose. It was all brand new Kato Unitrack and putting the NoOxID on it didn't work out well for me at all. I had pickup issues on both DC and DCC no matter how carefully and lightly I attempted to apply it. Thankfully it was easy enough to strip back off since it was only a small track of loose pieces not anchored down to anything but it was a larger pain cleaning it off of my test locomotives. And for me one of the larger things was that it attracted dust out of the air. Which, in my area, is a big deal since it's just dusty where I live. Not I just use odorless mineral spirits and a clean lint free cloth and just do so regularly. When it comes to flash fire attempts I don't believe I have ever come close to a vapor saturation point even remotely dangerous. Same with using isopropyl alcohol. Now gasoline? Yeah I think i'd draw the line on that one.
Hey Larry! I enjoyed this video very much. I work at Tony's Train Exchange and I can tell you that not only is Larry Maier a very accomplished and experienced model railroader, but he is a brilliant engineer as well. If he recommends the DeoxIT for cleaning tracks, then he has thoroughly tested it and knows that it works extremely well without pretty much any of the drawbacks of the other cleaning solutions widely used to clean tracks. Our CMX Clean Machine track cleaning car is a perfect way to dispense this solution and clean your rails at the same time. We also use the DeoxIT all the time when working on locos after we do repairs or upgrades to DCC or Sound for customers, and it is truly an amazing product. It can instantly improve conductivity on even some of the oldest and most troublesome locos. I'll look forward to seeing your follow up video on how this worked on your helix.
Pity you lot at Tony's Train Exchanges do not reply to emails and that orders paid for are still not completely delivered after 9 months and numerous e mails. Worst company ever.
This is a saddening comment on Tony's Trains and from my experience, I must say I have had a much differing response from TTE. I have contacted them by e-mail on several occasions and have always had rapid response. Further, what purchases I have made from TTE have been filled and shipped in a very timely manner, averaging less than 7-10 working days.
IMO, of course, I find these folk to be responsive, helpful and reliable.
@@billdryden6275 You can read the full story of my review of Tony's Train Xchange on 'Yelp' under their banner Ben. Ordered 23rd march still not completed on 26th December
Thanks for commenting about Tony's Trains using DeoxIT, and that cleaning car. Both items are now on my future buy list.
An Aussie channel recommended INOX MX3 a while. We have tried it on the club's N gauge layout, Wickwar. We apply it, very sparingly, with pieces of 2mm card and then go over it again with some clean pieces of card to remove any excess. It has given good results over the past season.
Have been using INOX for a few years now and it’s great. Yes I made some mistakes by applying too much but got it right. I keep a lint free piece of material with INOX on it and just wipe the tracks occasionally. I had to cover the layout because of house renovation works for 8 months. I took the covers off eventually and without touching the rails with anything trains ran perfectly. I will never use anything else again and I would advise those that can’t get it right to stop and think about what you are doing. To say you don’t need much is an understatement.
Hi Larry! Thanks for this presentation. Track cleaning is always an interesting issue. I remember when Wahl clipper oil was first suggested, it was controversial then and never stopped generating comment. One of my layouts is a display layout in a preserved depot with no climate control, so the doors are open during most operations. I used to use Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) for track cleaning and had good results, but in the last few years I have gone to using CRC 2-26 Precision Cleaner and Lubricant. Yes, it says it is a "lubricant" and obviously has petrochemicals in its formula, BUT I haven't seen it diminish tractive effort (but both my display layout and home layout don't have heavy grades). It comes in a spray can but I don't spray directly on the track, I use rags from old t-shirts. I spray the cleaner onto the rag and then swipe it along a section of track. The wheels carry the cleaner around the layout. Because of the open nature of the display I still have to periodically wipe along the track to reduce the accumulated gunk, but it wipes right off. I get my 2-26 at the local Home Depot (Electrical Dept) for less than 1/3rd of the item you recommend.
Couple things to consider... Mohs Scale of hardness when using some type of "track rubber." Nickel is a 4 on the scale, anything harder than that can scratch your rails. Masonite is a 2-3 on the scale so no harm will come of the rails. You can scrub the rails with Masonite as hard as you want and no damage should come to the rails in terms of scratches.
One other thing to consider is humidity. Water vapor in the air (which is "polar") combines with the metals to attract dust, dirt and oxidizes the rails over time. A dehumidifier will help reduce these effects. Dehumidifier also helps with benchwork warping and prevents mold and mildew.
Two thumbs up! It's always good to get information on track cleaning dos and don'ts. Let's face it, NO ONE gets into this hobby so they can can enjoy the opportunity to clean tracks!
As soon as you pointed out that NO-OX-ID is a grease, I did the biggest face-palm ever. How could anyone think that greasing your track is a good idea?
I've used DeOxit for decades on my audio system. It definitely makes a difference. An audiophile from Japan came over for a listen and commented that he thought the right channel sounded better, clearer. I had only gotten around to cleaning all the right channel connections with DeOxit. I've used DeOxit in my model railroad too, although I was using it straight out of the bottle, which did build up some gunk over time (years), and ironically, seemed to actually improve traction even though the gunk was there. Electrical conductivity was still excellent however. I've never tried diluting it. I would also be careful what kind of isopropyl alcohol is used for dilution. Many isopropyl alcohol products are "rubbing" alcohol and contain some lubricants which we don't want on the tracks. Isopropyl alcohol is also highly flammable.
Hi Larry, I very occasionally, once a year or less, I put a tiny amount of Inox (a polarising spray) on a small piece of rag and wipe over my rails. I use a track rubber only to clean up after ballasting/painting. Otherwise a wipe with a champagne cork lifts any dirty spots and polishes the rails. It is easy to hold and covers both rails at once. When it gets dirty you cut a thin wafer off the end (or drink more champagne). Have a Merry Christmas, best wishes, Peter from downunder.
I've been using INOX for a couple year and it works great. I have a 2% grade on my N scale Layout with no problems at all. Bob
Interesting video. I have to wonder how much of the tractive effort loss is due to user error in application. CAIG, the makers of DeoxIt, state that this product is a conductive lubricant, just as No-Ox-ID is. On the other hand, Sanchem says that No-Ox-ID paste can be used in situations where you definitely wouldn't want any possibility of additional slippage, like securing guy wires and other clamped or screwed "industrial" fittings. Seems at first glance like six one, half-a-dozen the other...
I start with small vacuum to all the rails; using natural dusting brush. Then light application of CRC 6-56 (displaces, penetrates, protects). Zero VOC’s; with micro fiber cloths, or t shirts.
Use as little as it takes to do the job (this is always the key with anything used on track).. Sometimes use alcohol and m. spirits; but ONLY on track that has not been installed on the layout. Older, used track generally. So there. I clean and electrically condition track perfectly before using on layout. Then going forward, all that is ever needed is vacuuming and fluid cleaning. I do use No-Ox ID; but as instructed (thin application and wiped well so no grease residue is left).
Results? less light flickering and smooth running engines....
Great video, Larry - thanks! I first used No-Ox-ID in April of 2022, right after Ron gave his glowing recommendation. Overall, I've been very pleased with the results. I started by cleaning all of my track thoroughly with mineral spirits; then I applied a *thin* film of No-Ox-ID to about 3 inches of track, then ran a locomotive over all of my track for about 8 hours. Finally, I wiped the excess No-Ox-ID off of all of my track. I have not had to clean my track since - just over 18 months now. I've never had an issue with traction, probably because I have quite a small layout and a 10 car consist is extraordinarily long. That said, I am mindful of the long-term accumulation of dust on the track, so I will wait eagerly for your update.
I maybe wrong--as I have been on several occasions--but the way I took it from Ron's No-Ox-Id video is that the No-Ox-Id was to be applied (by finger) to all the track--not just 3 inches--and then let the locos spread it over the layout. Maybe that's where I made my mistake and applied a very light sheen (as instructed to do in Ron's video) to every piece of track and not just 3-inches of track.
I honestly don't remember if I got the idea from Ron's video or from somewhere else (sad, what's happened to my brain!), but I clearly recall reading *somewhere* that (a) you should just apply a thin film to a few inches of track, (b) let the loco spread the no-ox-id over the rest of the track, and (c) wipe all the track lightly to remove any remaining excess.
@@rwissbaum9849 Thank you for that info. I'll do that and see if that takes care of my skid marks on the rails after only a week after applying the No-Ox-Id. I have so much black gunk on my cotton cloths that it takes me approximately 3 wipes to remove it all. But this way I'll get a fresh start with what you recommended and see if that takes care of the issue I'm currently haviing.
I too have had excellent experiences with the No-Ox-ID A-Special for over 4 years on a 13 x 28 layout w/ a center peninsula. Note the “A-Special” designation and IF PROPERLY APPLIED. After the 1st application, some black residue forms as the No-Ox cleans gunk off the wheels. But even the residue seems conductive for a long time. After the 1st couple of cleanings, the black residue decreases and manly forms on rail rough spots. I’m cleaning track about twice a year. In between, I do run a vacuum car over the layout with frequency depending on construction dust etc. This DCC layout is run continuously for an average of 12 hours only on weekends. The ruling grade is 2% on the helix. We run 12-15 car trains or 20 car trains double heading.
I suspect that the variations in results reported could be due to the amount of application of the respective liquids
Really appreciate this video, and if you would enable the UA-cam "Thanks" button, people could put some coffee money in your tip jar.
Damn. I don't even currently have a working layout. But, I work in the electronics and printed electronics industry and I could have told anyone who asked that the No-Ox-Id was the totally WRONG product for model railroad application. It's really designed for high friction male/female or pin connectors that have been given a tight fit for anti-vibration purposes and to keep out oxidization (oxygen contact) and for marine use/water proofing. Yes, its electrically conductive but its secondary function is as a petroleum based insulator.
By the way, WD-40 has silicone in it. Silicone is a dielectric....and insulator. Very poor for current transfer. The De-Oxit products used to be marketed by Caig corporation as Pro-Gold....FANTASTIC product. I use the De-oxit product on electronic fuel injection system contacts. They have two levels of products. One for actually dissolving (electrolytically) the oxidation from the metals....but they have a dual use product that actually IMPROVES connectivity. I still do not know if it would cause slippage but its the best product system i have ever seen for what it does.
Hi Larry, I started using CRC2-26 on my large N Scale layout. It cut track cleaning to running my vac car around for dust. There was an occasional reapply on grades. But it worked great for me.
Some S gaugers on YT say the same.
I have a three level around the room layout with a 2% nolix connecting the levels. I have used noox for about 10 years now. Many of the advocates for noox repeatedly say you must use a MICRO thin amount, not a greasy layer of the stuff. When I have had a few locos that lose pulling power I simply doublehead up the grade, just like the prototype. But I never have to take track cleaners to the rails with laborious reaching to the back of the layout etc. I suggest NOT taking ANYONE'S advice and try it for yourself on a test section of track. My layout sat for nearly 1 1/2 years with no use. When I went back locos would not run, the track was too dirty. With a VERY THIN application of nonox, and running my most reliable loco until it stopped and then adding a tiny amount more of nonox, I had all 60 of my locos running the entire length of my three levels in about an hour's time with no elbow grease invested. Just letting the loco do all the work. Good luck with any other cleaning method, and you might be convinced to try nonox.
I use an electronic cleaner from my favourite radio part shop that evaporates quickly. It's safe on electric and plastic parts.
Hey Larry, I use CRC quick dry electrical contact cleaner - what are your thoughts ? Thanks, Ron
I have heard from others who use. I would first examine the chemical contents and their potential carcinogenic action.
Have you tried Inox MX3 with the Noch 60156 track cleaning pads........works a wonder. Remove the pads every now and again (when they look very dirty) wash them, allow to dry, respray the Inox mx3 on them and reattached to the cleaning car.
I operate a Marklin digtal system on stainless steel marklin C-track. ALL my loco's have rubber tyres. I do NOT (repeat do NOT) want to use abrasive blocks (creates micro groves). My track is not damaged, and is well looked after and in emaculate condition. I have watched hundreds of track cleaning video's and to be quite honest I am none the wiser. Totally confused. Some say "this" others say "that" and so on. Can someone
who is an authority on this subject please tell me what cleaner to use that 1) is grease free 2) leaves no residue 3) does NOT damage rubber tyres, ànd 4) not create micro grooves in the track. Yes, I am looking for a product that meets ALL the 4 points above. There HAS to be a solution to this subject that just goes around-and-around in circles. Kind regards, from Keith Heuer, Cape Town, South Africa.
Lol…no ox I.D.? Lol…it’s NO OXIDE; get it? I’ve used this for decades on outdoor electrical connections. Who EVER thought it would be a good idea to grease the rails??!! Just idiocy.
Sorry, Larry but I have to disagree with you on at least two points. If you’re slathering on NO- OX ID on your track, you’re applying it incorrectly! One applies a very thin coating, which is followed by wiping it off immediately. My layout is located in a marine environment where corrosion occurs rapidly. Whereas before treatment, the tracks required aggressive cleaning with a bright boy every week, a light swipe with a lint free cloth (on this we agree) to remove dust and dirt on the track, I’m ready to run.
As for using IPA, especially a 91% solution, you don’t think that’s flammable? I’d sooner use paint thinner! And remember, alcohol fires are invisible! Go back and do proper research before you espouse knowledge of the subject. Reread the article in Model Railroading .
I only use WD-40 Specialist Contact Cleaner. Spray some on a blue shop paper towel, wrap it around a small block, and rub it across the top of the rails. Also clean the wheels with it as well. We use this contact cleaner at work, and it performs very well.
I think in general having any conductive oil, grease or fluid along with other oils or cleaning stuff is very un-wise. About a year a go I spent a long time fixing a engine with dual motors. Wondering why the motors would spark and jerk often. My only guess is someone oiled the bearing with conductive oil, and before I got the engine it was no longer running, and the reversing electronic board needed to be repaired as well. All because conductive oil got into the motor brush contacts, shorting out the circuits. .
I have been using a piece of Veg tan leather glues to a little wood block with a stone ruse on it. Think stropping a razor it leaves a super fine finish on the rail almost mirror like over time.
I've used ronsonal lighter fuel (for wick lighters) for over a decade, never had an issue. A few drops on a cotton swab. Slowly rotate the swab as you run it along the rail heads. It's really hard to imagine a scenario wild enough for this to cause a fire. The main ingredient in DeOxit is mineral spirits, so it is very nearly just as flammable.
Some folks have had good results with CRC Electrical Contact Cleaner.
CRC 2-26 works GREAT... home depot has it for less than 3 bucks/can... says right on the can "improves electrical properties"
Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) is polar, so it will also attract dust and dirt. IPA also promotes microscopic electrical arcing, which causes the black crud that forms on the rails and gets dragged around by the wheels. You should use non-polar substances, which is why some model railroaders prefer mineral spirits. Since you mentioned flammability as a concern for mineral spirits, you should also be aware that IPA is also flammable.
But IPA evaporates quickly from the rails leaving no residue other than the DeOxIT which is nonpolar with a dielectric constant of 2.3.
IPA. Lol! Talk about fines and flammable! Come on Larry. Probably more flammable than the Mineral spirits. I’ll stick with the No odor mineral spirits and No ox ID. As it works awesome on my layout. Everything you showed is going to leave some dust especially the Masonite if you sand it. Can’t have your cake and eat it too. Why is it that old modelers are so stuck in their old ways and can’t accept new ways to do things? I really enjoy your videos, but totally disagree with your opinions on this one. Merry Christmas
Mineral spirits aren’t too bad although I’m not convinced that any of these organic solvents are something I want to breathe much of. The odorless forms usually have most of the really toxic compounds removed and I do have a bottle of artist grade odorless around here too. However from a safety perspective and relative flammability aside, I’d prefer IPA if I have to pick. Also I don’t do my sanding on the layout.
Larry, I have heard from Joe Fugate that Ipa will clean your rails because it's a good solvent, but it is polar and it has water in it. I will clean locomotive wheels with 91% alcohol but when cleaning rails I stick with mineral spirits and a lint free cloth. I have tried no ox id and I have mixed feelings about it. Yes it has worked but no no where close to a year before I'm cleaning track. Maybe I put to much on, I'm not sure .
I think anyone with a large layout cringes at the use of cloth. Every switch is a potential snag and trashes points.
I for years have used the finest Sandflex blocks and a roller train with alcohol on the lead roller. On the other end i clean is loco wheels with alcohol AND then with CRC 2-26 on the wheels. With this film on all locos it spreads a small amount all around the layout. Note this includes all the switch engines. Works great.
Lets see...a volatile organic liquid and electricity. Bad combination
If you go back and watch all the videos from Rons Trains and Things on NoOxID you will see that his tractive effort loss was only ONE car on his helix with a 2% grade. Furthermore, Ron stated that after 2 years in a dusty basement, it was the first time he had to go back and clean his track. So is two years between cleanings and a one-car loss on a 2% grade really a failure?
Now I know that just because it worked for Ron does not mean that it will work for everyone.
Thank you, Larry. I appreciate your comments but have a different experience. NoOxID was a clear winner on my layout. I started using it about 2 years ago. Was tractive effort affected? Yes. Initially after application, 50% reduction in pulling power on 3% grade was noticed. However, after two days of drying on the track, traction was only down 10-15%. Are the tracks sticky? Compared to IPA, yes. Slathering the rales is not required. After two years, I have not done a full cleaning once. Rubbing alcohol "rub down" cleanings used to be required 3 times a year before NoOxID special was used. Will I clean my track again. Yes. I think the "dust and grime" point is valid. If I am cleaning my track once every 18 months or so and the trains run on demand after weeks of non-use, then I have my winner.
History of my cleaning products:
Pencil eraser -> Bright Boy -> Goo Gone -> Clipper oil -> IPA -> NoOxID.
Those that didnt get good results with No-ox ID used it wrong..i find it impossible for it not to work... i have a garage layout and l ive in the desert. I had givin up on it because it never ran well, if at all, constant cleaning with very temporary, like hours, results
Disvovered No-ox id 6 months ago, trains run fantastic, had a temporary traction issue on grades, after about a week slippage was no longer an issue and trains still run flawlessly. If i start to see any sign of flickering or hesitation i run the CMX (dry) for a lap or 2 on the mains, wipe the spurs and the yard tracks with a tidy track and all is well...i try to vacuum everything every other.week or so..NOOX Id is nothing.short of a miracle fix and nobody can tell me any.different
Inox MX3, a wipe over and also use for lubing the trains and they will run smooth as...
Come on....be serious...IT SHOULD NEVER BE APPLIED SUCH THAT IT WOULD TAKE A WEEK TO CLEAN OFF... and its USE on track and its USE on switches that experience harsh weather are apples AND oranges.....my guess is that for track they are talking about a very light application that is rubbed in ,, almost rubbed off as far as a surface deposit....its Just to prevent oxidation of the metal surface
BINGO! 👍🏼👍🏼
It took me a week to get that stuff off of my HO layout, locos and stock too. Thought it was ruined. NoOx is a NoGo for HO with any grade. Wanted to curse the promoters of it.
@@markkuehler6971 you didn't even READ WHAT I wrote
Best thing to do is put a stand alone air filter in your basement that runs 247
I have an AirDoctor next to my layout and I’m amazed that I never see any dust on my trees, water, buildings, and I’ve done very little in the way of track cleaning over these last 4 years.
As always great content. My two cents, I have had great results with NoOx ID. Again, there are lots of variables with use and application. Less is more. Ron mentioned this I believe and Steve I believe admitted he may have been heavy handed. From what I understand it helps with the microscopic pits in the rails from sparks and abrasion. I have a relatively small layout with consists of 7 or less cars. I don’t run them nearly enough but with NoOx ID I found from sessions with lots of no run time in between the tracks stayed very consistent with current for months to a year. Of course, using it doesn’t mean you’ll never have to clean again especially in an unfinished area like you mention. I am pleased with it. I know from my vintage synthesizer repairs and maintenance the detox it is great for electrical continuity so it makes sense to use for rails. May give it a try down the road. Thanks again.
Yes, too many people apply wayyyy to much no-ox
So, no mineral spirits because it's flamable rubbing alcohol, which is also highly flamable, is totally fine. 😂😂😂
Hi Larry. I came across a product called STRIKE HOLD, which was developed for the US armed forces in Afghanistan to keep dust and sand from fouling their firearms.
It is a cleaner and lubricant but DRIES without a sticky residue. I bought some to use on my firearms, then decided to try it on my layout because of the non stickiness.
I live in a coastal town of Yeppoon, Queensland Australia, and it is quite humid most of the time and as you can imagine has a lot of salt air as it is on the coast.
I apply the Strike Hold by putting it on a lint free rag and wipe it on my tracks. I have a helix with a 2% grade and do not have any traction issues.
I might run my trains if lucky maybe twice in two weeks, and I have not required to clean my track for 6 months.
I used Inox beforehand, it was good but not nearly as good as Strike Hold.
Cheers from Australia
I am an Analog Märklinist and never clean track, only wheels. :)
I've used CRC 2-26 for years to clean track and wheels $4.25 at Home Depot.
Hi Larry and Merry Christmas to you and your family. I am glad that you are looking into this product and I look forward to the future results. Track cleaning is the bane of all model railroaders and a reliable solution would be wonderful.
Hi Larry, as always very insightful and informative. I will wait for your results and conclusion on the DEOXIT. I have been using Track and Rail Cleaner ACT-6006 by Aero-Car Hobby Lubricants. I've had great success wit it but would like your opinion on this product, i only have a small layout and I am getting ready to move and build a larger layout. Your thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks again, looking foward to the next video.
I use a mix of Cayenne pepper, mustard, ipecac, asafoetida, croton oil and gunpowder.
Well, there's your problem - you left out the diet cola!
Why do we have to win the lottery to be able to afford this stuff?
I use wd electrical contact cleaner. This is NOT the same ss normal wd40.
Steve Brown is a flake, look where he is now trying to make music videos
Could be that the problem people had with No Ox Id because they put too much on. I just purchased it and am looking forward to trying it after applying it the right way.
Good video, well timed for those in the northern hemisphere when winter stops outdoor play.
I wrap a white cotton cloth around a sanding block and spray it with CRC electrical contact cleaner (Inox in UK, Australia, New Zealand) which is safe for plastics. I can reach every part of my track and can clean beside station platforms by flipping the sanding block on its side.
Have a look at fishplate films on this subject. He is an electrical engineer but his video is hilarious as well as being very informative. I switched to CRC after watching his video.
The CRC needs to be the one with the protectorate added
Been using Oxi for three and my trains runs great. I rub on with my finger then I wipe with clean cloth . Bout every 4 to 5 months I clean with alcohol Then rub Oxi on the track and then I wipe! My trains smooth
I heard rail zip is dexron II ATF repackaged?
Amazon US has been watching the video, they put the price up to $59 😂
As a model railroader, and, professional firefighter, DO NOT use gasoline! Most people have no idea how dangerous gasoline is.
Thank you
Track maintenance is required regardless of how many trains pass per day. Even if the average is once per day, I would clean my tracks at least twice a year.
Use LPS-1, end of conversation.
Hi Larry, Great Video and a Merry Christmas to you and your family. I also have to question weather NoOxID A Special is really conductive? I purchased a little jar, and using a brush painted some on a piece of paper. I then took my Volt Ohm meter and tried to read the resistance of that painted strip. The reading was infinity, so to me that is not conductive? The product I've been using for the past 10 years or so is called DeoxIt D5 in a spray can and is labelled as "Safe on Plastics". I use it the same way, but directly out of the can sprayed onto a lint free cleaning rag. I've also been using the DeOxIt D5 on the bronze contact strips that connect the stock rails to the point rails in Atlas Custom Line Switches, to help remove corrosion between the bronze strip and the rail. Also for the elbow grease method, I prefer the Cratex Cleaning Blocks, they seem less abrasive than the Bright Boys. Cheers, Rich S.
If I may address this question...the question and answer are misleading. No, if you try to conduct electricity through a glob of No-Ox it will not work. However, conductivity is not inhibited through a microscopic layer of No-Ox AND that layer does inhibit micro-arching and oxidation, both of which kill electrical conductivity. Similar is true of graphite, which Joe Fugate and many others use instead of No-Ox.
Hi @@RonsTrainsNThings As electrician, I can tell you, you cannot have something that is both a insulator and be conductive. Now true I can make a piece of wood conduct electricity, if I push 18,000 volts and 1,000 amps thought it, but on a model railroad using 12 volts and milliamps, I don't see grease as being a conductive substance. Now in your other example, graphite is conductive and that is why motor brushes are made from graphite along with a binder to hold the graphite together. Ron, I know you are sold on NoOxID A Special and if it's working for you, that's great, but like Larry mentions in his video, I do not wish to put any type of oil or grease on my rails as it will attract dust. As someone who's been in this hobby for over 50 years, I also went down the Wahl Hair Clipper Oil rabbit hole years ago. It worked until the rails started turning black from all the gunk that the oil was collecting. Bottom line, there is no way around regular maintenance, even on the prototype. That is why locomotives come into the shop every 92, 184 and 365 days for routine maintenance. Yes I know this, as that is my job working on the 1:1 scale trains as a locomotive electrician. Cheers, Rich S.
@@RWSBaden I KNOW only 2 things. First is the quote below from the company that produces No-Ox who can speak for it better than I--and according to that it is conductive. I clearly misspoke there. Second is that, if used correctly, it works and it has worked for years.
"NO-OX-ID "A-SPECIAL Electrical Grade" is the electrical contact grease of choice for new electrical installations and maintenance. NO-OX-ID electrical contact lubricant (electrical contact grease) is an electrically conductive grease that keeps metals free from rust and corrosion. NO-OX-ID electrical contact grease has been used in the power industry for over 65 years to prevent corrosion in electrical connectors from low micro-power electronics to high voltage switchgear. NO-OX-ID A-Special is RoHS compliant! This product is also used as a battery terminal grease."
Hi Ron @@RonsTrainsNThings, At this point we're going to have to agree to disagree. In the above statement from the company, they are admitting their product is a grease manufactured to protect metal from rust and corrosion. Yes at work we also use a product on battery terminals to prevent corrosion, but you place the cable on the terminal first, then paint the corrosion product over top of the connection. Also if a product is electrically conductive, it does not matter how thick or thin the product layer is, so saying only thin layers of NO OX ID A Special is conductive is simply, silly. Like I mentioned earlier, if this product is working for you, great, I'm not telling you to stop using it. I'm merely stating I agree with Larry, I do not wish to add any type of grease or oil to my track. And from my tests, I've found this product is not conductive. So at this point like all disclaimers, Your Mileage May Vary. Cheers, Rich S.
I am going to use Deoxit on my layout what is the best way to clean the movable rails on the n scale turnouts? I need to have good contacts because they control the turn out led lights.
I use the DeOxIt solution to clean all electrical contacts. You can put it on a cotton swab, a piece of cloth, a microbrush, or a piece of paper towel and then run it between the points, wheels, electrical pickups, etc. Does a great job.
You can also buy deoxit in 5% spray
Larry, what is the ratio of deoxit and alcohol. I don’t want to use the whole bottle of deoxit.
As I said i the video you use the full bottle of DeOxIt to 1 pint of IPA. You could use half a bottle of each, or 1/4 bottle of each, etc. Not exactly rocket science!
Not only collects dust but could potentially get up inside of you motor as well an the contacts an possible shorts could happen let alone damage as well to gears ect. The tiny bit you think will not cause trouble will build up over time an likely would be needed to clean the wheels regularly to keep buildup of the dirt an grease from doing damage a lot more. I love you videos an wish I had listened to my dad about this stuff too he was so very right as well too lol. Do they make a mini vac track cleaner and how do you keep the cleaner car from causing a shot if it's one big wet clean pad would not two small ones for each rail be more safe?
I have seen a track cleaner car with vac, I think it is made by one of the European companies. While a wet pad may conduct a small current across the rails it would depend on the liquid and even then would probably be too small to trip a circuit breaker or shut down a booster.
Almost every club I have visited or interviewed have said the best way to keep track clean is to run trains a lot more:):):)nnfun! Real tracks shine when they are used a lot....
This is true,and I don't know anyone who disagree. That is rare, isn't it? 😅👍🏼👍🏼
It might not help in a big basement or attic layout, but for smaller rooms I've found that some good quality air purifiers really help keep dust off the track. I have never used any chemicals, only the rubber abrasive pads that come with the Tidy Track system about once a month. It's been running reliably for over 2 years.
Thanks for the tips!
I just use a small piece of 2x2 wood, works great and no chemicals.
My local club (Houston area) has standardized on mineral spirits as a track cleaner. We use a couple of drops on strips of cheesecloth mounted to either a track cleaning train the club owns or homemade PVC T-handles if cleaning by hand, & then dry it immediately after cleaning. Fumes aren’t ever an issue because we use it in such small amounts.
I thought I was going crazy. I used No ox ID as outlined in RTNT .- my track attracted alot of dust as a result of using this grease. alot of black grime. Thanks for sharing Larry. Happy New Year !
I will never use No Ox ID ever again. Within a week my track was filthy and lost a lot of tractive effort. I’ll just go back to Bachmann or Piko track cleaner.
Back in the old days when brass rail was the norm, I remember an article in MR that stated nickel-silver rail oxidizes but the oxide layer conducts electricity, where brass oxide does not. Track cleaning was much worse then because we had to keep something on the track to prevent oxidation. That might account for why some modelers want oils or a grease on the rails. Back then it made sense. Today dry rails are better.
I got in on the tail end of brass track, but fortunately side stepped it when I was introduced to nickel silver at my club. Saved me a lot of headaches I am sure.
I use graphite. It is cheap, works fine, avoids black gunk and I don’t have to clean the tracks for months.
I use graphite as well . Be aware this might make your wheels appear dirty but its just the graphite being distributed around the track.
@@mikegall5511Joe Fugate says to use graphite after track cleaning. Is that what you do? Thank you.
Yes works well for me. I have been doing this for over a year.@@BASILPANAS
@@BASILPANAS I clean the tracks with contact cleaner and use graphite. It is simple and works pretty fine.
Howdie Larry i wanted to pass on my thoughts on your Video I thought it was Seriously informative & you made some Great points..
I use NO-OX-ID only to clean the Ends of Slide Rails we're they butt up to the Stock Rail & I used it we're my Rails join in the Rail joiner in doing this I didn't have to power my Yard but eventually I will..
On all of my Track I use Inox Mx3 which is Non Toxic mater of fact the Inox i use, Larry can be used in Food Area's it says this on the Packaging the Reason I took to Inox was after watching Gregg's Fishplate Films videos on how the product was so affective when Gregg cleaned his Engine & Rollinstock I still used IPA for certain small parts of the layout so I hope Gregg don't Holler at me too much most to remove paint from Weathered Microtrains trains cars i wanted to add Larry i just bought a New Atlas Engine with DCC it wasn't wanting to run as I hoped it would but after a good cleaning with inox which took off a ton of black Gunk its running Normal & sounds pretty good Its Atlas SD-9 with ESU Lok Sound..
One stuff I absolutely positively WONT use & you said it Best Larry to use it your putting yourself & others at Risk & that's Mineral Spirits there's more than just your Railroad if your Railroad is in your home 🏡 Your Cloths Dryer, your Hot Water heater & lets not forget the Furnace especially if they're a Gas one spark from that stuff & its Game over I'm not really into using anything that can potentially be toxic especially if its used in the same place I live & sleep in..
If I was doing a fairly large layout using foam or I had to use products that you had to use to help build the layout I'd probably build it in large Work shed or small building we're I currently live in Apt. There's windows but not enough windows to vent properly but my hopes are to Expand in the near future..
But I'd surely like to give the product you mentioned a Try.. thanks Again for making this video hope you had a good Christmas
Allen D
I was totally unaware that so many people had train cleaning issues. I ran big trains(Like coupler breaking long) in both N and HO, which seemed to keep the track clean, and never really had any problems. I did wipe the rails with a kitchen scrubber (the sponge side) wetted with 90% alcohol, but that was rarely, if ever, really needed. I cleaned the wheels on my cars and locos a few times a year with alcohol and Q-Tips. The only problems I ever had was back in the brass track HO days. I was a little kid(4) when I got my first layout, a neighbor put it together, it was sold as a kind of a kit. No rolling stock, just premade and painted scenery and track that needed to be laid. I passed it to a friend's little brother when I was about 10, the brass track had long been replaced by nickel-silver by then, ballasted, and the manual switches had been replaced with Atlas powered ones. I switched to N about 1969, and had a pretty large layout. Only the worst locos had any issues with "stuttering", and many of those wound up semi-permanently parked in the yard, or in the worst cases, made into dummies that did nothing but sit there and have a glowing headlight. Modeling PC made it easy to repaint a badly painted loco, spray it black and put PC decals on it, done.
Thanks for covering this most controversial of all model railroading topics. Everyone has their very own magic potion approach to track cleaning. Of course, there's always more than just the potion itself. The method of application is also important, as is the geography of the layout and the frequency of operations, among other variables.
I look forward to your follow-up report on DeoxIT D100L. With your typical thoroughness, I'm sure that you will try to isolate as many peripheral factors as you can, so that whatever results you observe and share will be as reasonably scientific as can be obtained under the circumstances.
One observation that might be relevant, if not unduly complicated to obtain, would be the actual track current consumption in respective trials, if you could temporarily fit your RRampmeter to the test track.
Good luck with your trials!
I picked up some of that No-ox-id but have not used it on any track yet. Currently, I'm more interested in trying it on the pickups. I think it might be great to get better conduction and help to prevent (or at least slowdown) any wear of the copper strips.
Mineral spirits, then a VERY LIGHT bit of graphite. I pretty much never have to clean my track (other than after scenery construction), I just run a car with a Masonite pad slung under it wiper around once in a while to get the dust off. No-ox-ID was a disaster for me. Caused major wheel gunking.
I really like No Ox on my O scale 2 rail layout. It helps if I run the layout frequently. I haven’t had to clean track for over a year.
Hi Larry. This is a great topic and I look forward to your follow up after your testing. Reading all the comments and many other discussions on this topics, it seems to me that there are three related but also different issues.
1. Initial and remedial cleaning -- that is, the best approach to restoring track/wheels to their clean state.
2. Electrical conductivity - what is the best approach for "treating" clean rails so that electrical performance is enhanced and arcing reduced. i.e. Joe Fugate's discussion of polar and non-polar solvents.
3. long-term performance - what is the best approach for reducing the need for remedial cleaning.
It seems to me that there are many approaches to #1 that probably achieve similar results (hence many of the comments to this post).
Re #2 - Fugate has introduced the idea of using products that reduce future micro-arching by paying attention to the polarity of the given cleaner or rail treatment. I do not have the background in materials engineering to assess these claims, but the scientific approach makes this convincing.
#3 remains the holy grail. When folks comment re their suggested approaches, I would find if very helpful if they were clear whether or not their approach results in reduced requirements for remedial cleaning. My casual scan of the NoOXid supporters comments suggests that the benchmark in this area should be at least one-year between major cleans.
John Geddes - Vancouver, Canada
Well since the bigggest scale doesn't use grease why the hell would you put it on your own scale track
Really? Really? What a dumb fucking question. Yeah, the material they use on the real thing is the same thing we use in the hobby! Definitely! And what happens when trains stop using the tracks? They definitely don’t trust!!11!1 duh. Moron.
Thanks Larry, here in the uk I use a product called Inox. This cleans up nicely used sparingly then wipe the track over to remove any excess. My layout is small but it works for me. Also it’s conductive, and helps contact on switching . I just have the cheapest Guagemaster type.
Using a Bright Boy causes deep visible scratches in the rail heads, won’t those ultimately make matters worse? You can always tell track thats virgin vs if it’s ever been touched by a bright boy.
That’s why I only turn to it as a last resort.
This seems like the the perfect video series called "I was dumb enough to put this stuff on...."
I get the concern about flammability for all the normal reasons, but I'm curious how those reasons apply to use on model railroad track. Are you concerned about simple storage of the containers in your home? Use of the product in a non-ventilated space? Fear that a tiny spark from a low amperage system may set the layout on fire? I think the volatile vapors dissipate pretty quickly that I wouldn't imagine that a spark from a locomotive passing over the rails would ignite the tiny amount of liquid leftover on the rails from cleaning them, or am I wrong? I'm just trying to understand the concern, because all the normal stuff I'm well aware of and can manage like every other dangerous chemical I store and work with in my home. I would just like to make sure there's not something I'm missing about using mineral spirits as a cleaning agent for my track. Thanks for anyone's help.
I am more concerned with accidental spills since in North America many layouts are located in basements with furnaces with an open flame going in winter. In some cases the volatile portion may be heavier than air and accumulates near the ground where a pilot flame could ignite it. There is also the fact that many of these flammables contain very nasty toxic compounds. Mineral spirits often contain benzene unless you buy highly refined artist grade. IPA on the other hand is fairly benign as long as you don’t sit around huffing it and the 70% most people end up using has a much higher flash point than the value you see online for the 100% solution. I didn’t do a deep dive into those considerations but plan to mention it in my opening next time.
@@TheDCCGuy Thank you for your response, Larry. I'll bear that in mind and will give IPA a try. Love your channel and appreciate all the work you put into it.
I have been watching some of your videos this past year. You may have talked about it, but this video brought some questions up. I finished putting down the last piece of track yesterday. I'm ready to start weathering the track and ties. I was going to spray a thin coat of paint on the track. Then clean it off with paint thinner. But you make a great point about flammable. What do you recommend for this next step.
Video #153 is on painting track. I use acrylic paint and run a cork block over it before it hardens which works well. If it dries hard you may get it off with a wood or hardboard block but in those cases it sometimes requires IPA, spirits, or an abrasive block. I only use those as an absolute last resort.
Thank you.
Larry, The Masonite slider works fantastic for me. (no chemicals, abrasives, greases or over complicated/problematic cleaning cars). I choose to use them on cars with a drop down style side frame which disguises them. They run continuously and my rails look perfect. The other advantage is they clean hard to reach areas like tunnels. They are also easy/cheap to make and easy to maintain. If your rails are in really bad/neglected shape, use one of the other methods to get them reasonably clean and then switch over to Masonite which gently polishes the rails. Thanks for the idea!! They work for me and I think it's absolutely the perfect solution. I've thought about rubbing the Masonite surface with a carpenter's pencil (ie graphite) but haven't found a need to.
Dear Larry, great video, love the comparison of all these different track cleaning techniques. Definitely will look into the DeoxIT. Never used bright boys, try to avoid any abrasive on the track. The last years I’ve acquired several bundles of old track at thrift stores. Depending on the original manufacturer source of the tracks, I first attempt to determine if we’re talking nickel-silver rail. Then I give ‘m a first thorough cleaning with a tiny bit of silver polish product. That really helps getting rid of the accumulated dust and gunk over the years. Must add here that some of those tracks looked just as black as the sleepers when I first got them. After this thorough rinse and polish I clean off the residue with a mixture of lukewarm demineralized water, a drop of dish soap and a tad of alcohol. Next step is to do the lint free cloth rub. Then the track is back into shape, the railhead running surface as smooth as a mirror and no gunk remains. Cheerio
CRC 2-26 ?
CRC2-26 is my go to.
I great presentation. I am suspect about using any abrasive on my track secodary to it creating microcavitation of the rails and promoting the micro-arcing described by Joe Fugate. Also, from reading his articles, I've tried to keep to nonpolar solvents. Unfortunately, most nonpolar solvents are flammable.
I look forward to hearing your results with DeoxIT. I have tried NoOX ID and CRC etc. etc. I've jotted this down on my running list so I don't forget to check back! Thanks for the great content.
It's $33 now.
It's my personal opinion of over 60 years as a model railroadering. There's no such thing that makes any model railroadering track you don't have to clean. There's no such thing. It's a mith. Brass, steel, even plastic rail has to be cleaned at some point or some section will have to be touched up occasionally. You can't get around it. I do all scale's. It's just something has to do. Cleaning your track is just something everyone has to do. Some track has to be cleaned more often. I use a track eraser, and a track monkey on the last car to be pulled around when running trains. About once a month I have to do a touch up cleaning on a spot that prevents good contact to get the train through. It cheaper than these other methods and less time consuming. And I'm running trains 6-8 hours every day running trains in both directions. I stay with what I actually knows what works for me. Using the KISS system, Keep It Simple Stupid. I taught the KISS system for four years in the Air Force training people for years. I just know what works, cost effective and less effort you are wasting time and money on that really doesn't work and I've used them all. For the last 14 years running steel track I do a touch up on a small section with a track eraser maybe once every two or three months if not 6 months. I have longer time running trains and less derailings. I just don't have them. You can decide for your self as everyone should. I choose over 14 years old. It works for me personally.
Watching this reminds me of how many different things I've tried over the years. Currently using NO-OX with good results. I was also concerned about the possibility of slippage in my helix but have not noticed any nor have I had any noticeable difference in dust collection on the rails. That said, I am going to look into that DeOxIT.
I really liked Steve Brown, but then he disappeared. I have yet to put nay kind of gunk on my track. Years ago I had all brass until they stopped producing it, and it never oxidized. Then nickel silver came out and it is one headache after another, but running your trains once a week helps. Bright Boy works the best by far.
The tracks (Fleischmann) on my N-scale model railroad are about 35 years old. So far I used a cleaning block (NOCH 60140) for severe pollution areas and a cleaning car (ROCO 46400) in combination with a Fleischmann rail cleaning locomotive (Fleischmann 796805) for the removal of dust. I never used any liquids or sandpaper. the only problem I sometimes face is the contamination of switches. In those situations I use a cotton swab (without liquid) to remove the dirt. I also use the cleaning block for the cleaning of the wheels on the locomotives. I have no experience with tracks of other manufacturers so I don't have any idee of the methods I use are successful.
We've had really good luck with DeoxIT and Atlas Conducta-lube for cleaning locomotive power pickups. I suspect a lot of automotive contact cleaners would be comparable but much cheaper but have not personally used them. Music stores often sell some of the DeoxIT products too.
I bought some "Rail-zip" for my slot car track....What CRAP. None of my cars would run after I cleaned the rails with it! I had to use other stuff to get the damn "Rail-zip" OFF.
Yeah, i stopped using that "NoOxide " ,when i went to wipe my tracks due to trains slipping too much. What started as a clean bright white cloth was black ,grey and brown after 25 minutes of wiping,lol. The use of the cork road bed works well for me, so i'm sticking to that.However... i had totally forgotten, that i have one of those old MDC Box cabs w/ track cleaning equipment and it works great . ....I'll use that too,lol.
As an electronics tech, I have used Caig De ox for over 20 years on all sorts of applications with great results. On a whim,I used it to treat my Lionel Super O track layout over 3 years ago. As you are probably aware, Lionel units using AC voltage will create plenty of buildup on the track. I was amazed at how much better the trains ran and the track has remained far cleaner than previously.
Good to ear that, it gives me hope going into this test on my layout. I spent about an hour yesterday cleaning the rails with my wet scrap of tee shirt and IPA and plan to apply the DeOxIT today.
I restore furniture and use lacquer, Mek, xylene , mineral spirits, etc on the daily. I cannot see the danger of using a small can of thinner with a little bit on a rag. The fumes are minimal unless you soak an entire rag and it is a superior cleaner.
You then take the small pink bottle and pour it into a larger pint bottle and added flammable alcohol.
You get to pick your poison.
@@TheDCCGuy is there anyone still recommending no ox? I’m not at that point yet but I bought some .