Electrolux Front-Load Washer Door Boot Seal Replacement (part 5304505004)
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
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This video provides step-by-step instructions for replacing the door boot seal on FLS627UTT Electrolux washing machine. The most common reason for replacing the door boot seal is when the washing machine is leaking water.
Additional stove repair, troubleshooting tips, help with finding your model number, and part replacement videos: www.repairclin...
All of the information in this door boot seal replacement video is applicable to the following brands: Electrolux
Tools used: Phillips-head screwdriver or Number two square drive bit, needle-nose pliers, & a 7/16th inch socket.
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For those that had trouble getting the gasket on the drum... The part of the gasket with the holes does not go over the drum lip. It goes under! There is the thin piece of the gasket with the arrow that fits over the lip of the drum. Find the notch and fit that into the lip/groove of the drum. Once that part of the gasket is flush against the drum all the way around, fit the spring and the rest is simple. I hope this helps!
Thanks for the tip!
Still having trouble with the new boot not fitting properly on the outer drum even with lining everything up.
Never mind figured it out.
You sir, get a like.
10/10 mate. THANK YOU! Saved me a lot of frustration!!!
I have never loved and appreciated a video more straight to the point no theatrics, no story behind it just how to do it thank you thank you thank you, now to make my husband do it😂
Did you successfully replace this gasket ? The video is way more complicated than I expected. Our gasket is disgusting but I’m honestly terrified we will break the washer in the process of trying to replace this part.
Thank you so much for making this video! My wife and I tackled this task today. We just finished up and everything went smoothly. You make putting that spring on look a lot easier than it is! We are on well water and our unit is 4 years old I can't tell you how disgusting that piece of rubber was. Thanks again!
You are welcome. We are always here to help.
Thank goodness for the comments about the seal here - it’s really hard! The moral support from others with the same issue helped me get through the third hour of fiddling with the replacement. For those coming after, keep with it!! The key is to make sure the arrow on the rubber gasket is over the tab at the top and flush with the fat part of the washer drum (look closely as he works the seal around or as he takes off the original and you’ll see what I mean). Also, there is a notch in the inner rim of the rubber gasket that fits over the part of the washer rim that sticks out at the top. Make sure there is overlap and the seal is tight all the way around (it will be hard to work it on and was a two-person job for me). Finally, make sure you have a cold beverage ready to celebrate afterward. You deserve it.
You are god sent ... I struggle with it for about an hour and a half until I read your comment and saw that groove in the lip... appreciated
@@enzodragon0 hope you celebrated with a cold one 🍺
Stuck here trynna get the inner ring on with no clamps lol
@@Appachoppa112 that's probably not going to work ... Trust me I tried...ended up having to buy like 2 from Lowe's
@@enzodragon0 yeah i just put it back as best as i could lol. Its not gettin done today
Holy Moly. This is a gnarly undertaking! My husband and I did it in an hour - def a 2 person job! Also, they suggest clamps - probably a big help. We didn't have clamps and supporting the rings was brutal. This video was awesome though, perfectly helpful. But yes, please take note of the comments about the gasket - video doesn't really show the application clearly. Ok, I need a nap and a drink now....
This video was spot on and to the point!! I just replaced my boot seal gasket, with no prior washing machine repair experience, in little over an hour. The video is concise, well described and straight to the point. Thanks so much for saving me a few hundred dollars!!
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So watched this about ten times. Everything went smoothly until that damn spring. Drove me crazy. Could not get it on. Had to turn to a appliance repair. Turns out I was putting the boot seal on wrong (wish there was more close,up of that.) Once that was on right the repair person put the spring on in 20 seconds as the spring held on the boot. When I was doing it the boot kept pulling off. I’m just glad the whole thing is over and will keep the boot clean enough to eat off of!
Shocking how difficult this is!
Bad designers, simple as that. Also they want you to call their maintenance people.
Having now done it, I have to say it was surprising easy. The video was very clear and concise.
I can't get the spring back on🤦🏾♂️
Clamps keep slipping
@@dejoirnadavis3249 I didn't use clamps. I started at the top as they did in the video and slowly worked my way down both sides with both hands. When I got near the bottom I just pulled down on the spring a bit and basically rolled the spring into place with my thumbs. Hope this helps.
Thank you so much! This video is very helpful. I would make a strong point next time to explain exactly how the rubber gasket goes on over the lip.
Excellent video and very straightforward instructions! I was able to replace the door boot seal with no problems by following the exact steps in this video. Reinstalling the spring was not difficult. I used the two large spring clamps like in the video to hold the spring in place (at the 10 and 2 o'clock positions) and then stretched the spring down and over the rest of the lip.
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I found the trickiest part was getting the front panel back on. Be sure to check for proper alignment of the 4 plastic pins and the 2 mating points for the screws in the soap dispenser area. I had my metal flanges bend due to forcing it when not completely aligned.
Thanks for the tip!
I found that removing the three screws and top weight made accessing and aligning the top tab on the seal to be much easier for starting and completing putting on the seal. I was able to put it on in around 10-15 minutes, once the top weight was out of the way.
These instructions were bang on! My husband and I completed this installation with no issues at all. I do agree with one of the comments below though, getting the front panel back on the machine was likely the trickiest part of this project. Also, installing the spring and retaining clip were smooth, mind you we did have to sets of hands. If working alone, I would suggest as the video does, using several clamps to fix the spring in place while it is fit around the circumference of the washer opening. Thank you again!
This video was amazing. It was a perfect step by step that made replacing the boot seal a breeze
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I tried without removing the front and top but you can’t put the back spring without space. So i did exactly as show in the video and worked👏
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Attaching the new drum seal is hard. It is very confusing if you’ve never done it. Recommend you take pictures of your old drum seal before you start removing any of the springs. I almost gave up before I finally figured it out.
Got it done with the help of this video. I swiped some dish soap around the flange on the seal before installing and it just slid right in there!
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Great Directions, thank you. We had a hard time getting the rubber gasket started as directed, but after we took off the top counter weight we were able to slip it right on.
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Just replaced my seal, had this video open whole time. Thank you so much!
It is a little harder than on the video, but instructions were excellent. Had to go look at old seal to see where spring went (marks present) to be absolutely sure - sure don't want another leak! Clamps to assist with spring replacement are a must, I got 3" Ponys from Lowes, very cheap. Highly recommend this video.
Thanks repairclinic team! This video is amazing! I’ve been able to replace the door boot seal by myself!
For those who wonder, it took me 2hrs and a half.
Thanks so much for this video! I wouldn’t have been able to fix my washer without it!
The instructions were excellent. Done installing in just about 90 minutes. The squeaky seal is a bit disconcerting, but from other comments seems like it’s normal for the first few cycles
The use of clamps to replace the spring. Great idea.
Great video ......I was able to replace it without removing the top cover and front cover...... alittle tight doing it that way but my washer and dryer are installed inside cabinets like a built-in so I figured I would try without removing the covers and I was able to do it in less than 30 min.
I used the clamp idea...... Great tip.... That inner spring is very difficult to expand.
Frustrated that I had to replace the boot seal after only two years due to a small tear in the bottom of the seal.
HAPPY that your video is super clear and easy to understand to replace the stupid seal! Thank you!
Same here, except a nickle sized chunk somehow tore off. Mine's still under (extended) warranty, but after reading it closely, sounds like it only covers parts, not labor, on this third year of ownership. Will find out Monday, as they're closed in weekends, because you know, stuff doesn't break down on weekends...😠
YOU GUYS ROCK!!
Great job on keeping the video succinct and comprehensive!
Just followed this and worked perfectly. Saved me a bunch of $. thank you
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This washing machine is most valuable in its ability to teach perseverance, not wash clothes
Just did this yesterday. Not too bad! Ditto on @emlafey's comment about exactly where the boot seal goes. I found it a whole lot easier to install the boot seal and springs with the top counter weight removed. I did need a third hand (second person) to help hold my clamps from flying off while installing the first spring. Also a third hand helps installing the second retainer.
After using your video to locate the filter I had to check this one as well. Thought I would remove the seal for a good deep clean. Now I think I’ll do it in-situ instead of risking what I may break disassembling the whole door and front panel! But clear and concise instructions to return to should we replace later. Thank you!
Awesome video thanks guys!! Two things I would add is take off the top counterweight, it helps make it easier to get the spring on. Then when installing new bellows if your struggling a tiny bit of fabric softener and it slides right on, use it on the light and the water hoses at the top as well.
Awesome instructions. Very accurate in both the disassemble and reassemble. Great job.
Thank you so much. Perfect instructions. We moved into a new home and the door seal was disgusting. I didn't buy a new part. Instead I saved $200 and soaked the door seal in bleach for 6 hours. Came out almost like new. Replaced the whole seal for about $30. $10 for bleach, $20 for clamps.
Nice!!
Did you have to do all these steps to remove the whole seal? I'm just trying to clean without taking it off..pain in the butt..not sure its possible
@@amymiller5112 yes, of course.
Wow...I bought a new seal not realizing it would be so involved to replace. I might be hiring someone for this. Thanks for the detailed video.
Right! Didnt expect that!
Same here...
Thanks for this .. who knows how much we saved! I took the extra step of removing the upper counter balance as well, and installing the inner boot spring was much easier with two pairs of hands.
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Thanks for the video. I would recommend taking off the top counter balance also. Made it easier for me.
Great video. You made the spring look too easy. Took two people without clamps and prayers to get it done.
Straight to the point exactly what I needed. Thank you so much!
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Very good video. Only criticism is that it would have helped to have a close up of the rubber seal showing where it needed to fit over the lip. Other than that, great! This was a tremendous help for me replacing my boot seal. Thank you!
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Video was right on - BUT you need clamps to put the spring back on! I got it with 2 but 3, as shown in the video, is ideal. Thanks
I did it without clamps, but i wish i did have clamps
Just one will work best… use one clamp to hold a start point, then stretch spring from the clamp to continue around ring. I tried using two or even three clamps, but then to stretch spring you are fighting the rubber, so all the stretch gets isolated to final little bit. If you just have one clamp, its cake as long as you use your arm to stretch spring as you install, the final bit has slack to go on easy.
Step 1: Disassemble the entire washing machine
Step 2: Replace gasket
I have a question about the lip around the boot seal, are the small holes suppose to be exposed?
Excellent video. Very thorough demonstration with easy-to-follow steps. We will definitely be able to do this ourselves after watching this video (will probably be using it during the repair as well). Thank you (gave a thumbs up).
Very helpful tutorial, no issues with your directions.
Thank you for the video took me about a hour and a half to do the whole job it is not as hard if you are mechanically inclined
This was a great video, but ditched this piece of crap washer. Have grown to absolutely despise front loaders now, especially after this. Pulled the gasket off and everything was full of mildew. The recirculating water line, drum, etc. this is a WASHING machine that uses water. This should not have to be maintained at this level. Not groaning at y’all just this mess they think is innovation. Literally just got back from Lowe’s with an old schools top loader without all the crap in it. Again, video is solid and helped me get this thing ready for haul off.
Holy smokes that was hard. My big tip is that the rubber lip wraps around/over the ring of the washer. It's kind of like wrapping your lips over a snorkel. This is done on both sides of the ring. At first I thought the rubber just laid around it. Like others have said, the rubber ends up being flush against the washer. I recommend using your fingers to dig into that crevice. It actually goes pretty deep into the rubber ring. That was might lightbulb moment about how it fits on.
Up until that moment, I thought I had the rubber ring in place, but the wire spring kept popping off, even with clamps. If the rubber is properly in place, the spring can actually sit in place.
I could make a healthy living going around my city. Could nearly get 3 done a week I reckon 😂🙏🏻❤️
I attempted this today and got it done. Once I was finished though the barrel doesn’t not move I tried to move it by hand with no luck. Have I attached the seal the the part of the barrel that turns and there is another part I should have attached too? It seems the seal is preventing the barrel from spinning. This guy makes it looks easy 😂
Man that was not easy! The spring was such a pain! But, thanks to the video I completed it. Be careful when taking off the front panel that little blue wire broke off because there isn’t much slack. I was able to use some glue thankfully and get it back on but be careful.
You made changing the seal so easy.. Thank you
Who else is here because they took it out to clean the seal and can’t figure out how to put it back on 😂😂😂
If youre having trouble with the inner spring, take 4 screws that hold the weights and screw in each corner (without the weights) and put spring onto each corner, then maneuver each corner at a time into the springs location, made it SUPER easy for me!
sounds like a good idea
Good video... Only tough part is seeing how the lip gets installed. Tough to see. A little explanation would help. Everything else is great.
The tension on the retaining spring seems uneven, with some sections stretched out more than others. Do you think this will even out over time, or should I try installing it again? I think the hardest part to this project was getting the front cover back on. It was difficult to line up everything, especially the screw mounts for the detergent tray area. Thanks for the helpful video!
Thank you, your video helped a lot.
Can you reuse the inner and outer spring clamps or do I need to buy new ones?
One of the reasons the front is so difficult on and off, is that you need to loosen one screw and remove one screw from the top of the reservoir that houses the detergent sliding door. On my model that reservoir fits into two screw housings on the front and so it does not fit together until the front has been lowered fully into place, almost impossible to get the front back on without dealing with these two screws.
An absolute godsend. Thank you!
Super easy. No clamps necessary if you have ever changed a bike tire before. Important to get the boot on so the spring sits in the groove, one benefit from pulling it apart is you get a real good visual all the way around. Tried this without removing the front and had a leak because one small area didn't get seated properly that I couldn't see.
I'm about to do this on Monday when I get my seal in but my re-circulation hose is disgusting. Anyone know of a good way to clean it?
Agree that this is an excellent video with the only issue being that putting the rubber gasket on is not intuitive - note that the little tabs go flush against the machine! Read comments below. Also, getting the large primary spring on was not easy. We needed two people and a lot of leverage to stretch the spring to fit. However, the project was completed in less than three hours, and the washer is running fine, no leaks, and no more disgusting mildewy rubber gasket.
Thx, exactly what I needed
This took forever UNTIL I figured out why the bellows wasn’t seated correctly. The top notch on the cream colored tub needs to fit into this bellow’s on the UNDERSIDE of the top triangle/arrow. Once you find that, you’ll know how to seat the bellows so the triangle/arrow tabs lay flush against the tub’s front face as shown.
This is amazing. Thank you for making this video
hi, Thanks for the video. i follow all instructions to do my repair as the video. unable to fix front panel. i watch this video again and again but still I can't fix it. can you guide me about it?
Well now the latch isn’t catching correctly, any ideas? Comes up with the “close door” error
Just finished this repair and boy was this video a fantastic guide. Everything was just as shown with a couple additional point for the next users. First the four screws on the bottom of the washer were pretty corroded from moisture and soap. Almost had to drill them out but managed to extract. Issue was you really can't use these again as the head were almost stripped by removal. Get replacements before project. I knew from past projects the spring loaded wires holding the seals on would come off pretty quickly but putting these back on a test of patience. I recommend the clamp method of holding these with maybe three clamps if needed. All was good until putting the front panel on. This was slightly bent somehow and the method of the attachment was not clear from the video. There are two plastic guide pins on each side and the fit through a wider opening on the panel and then the panel slips down on these. Getting the top and sides aligned ended up being a two person job for me. Everything was great up to this point. Maybe my panel just got a bit bent from removal but I could not get the three tabs on top aligned and get the four connectors on just right. Just a heads up. One last point-I was able to order the whirlpool part for about a third the price of the Electrolux part number. this was part PD00055316 and manufacturers part 5304505004.
Was the Whirlpool part infused with strong fragrance like the Electrolux part?
@@alanazon1 No. clean and no smell. I do already have new mould building up inside of seal.
@@markconfer9111 Hmm, I'm seeing that part number as a Frigidaire part, and Electrolux claims that it comes from the same factory. Was it listed as a Whirlpool part? May I ask where you bought it? I wonder if it's aftermarket? I did try ordering a couple of cheap gaskets online that I assumed from the price were aftermarket copies and wouldn't have the patented Electrolux perfumed antimicrobial coating, but they turned out to be genuine OEM parts. I'm violently allergic to the perfume, and just cannot get my hands on a non-perfumed gasket anywhere. All the parts suppliers around here claim that aftermarket, unscented versions do not exist, and I've exhausted the possibilities on amazon, so if you wouldn't mind sharing where you bought that gasket, I'd sure appreciate it.
@@alanazon1 No problem. I will have to do a little digging but I think on Amazon. It was a whirlpool part but I was able to cross reference the part numbers. There was no perfumed scent on this just plain rubber.
I’m having issues sitting the seal on the inside And suggestions
I've replaced about 35 of these in my complex, the front panels do NOT go on that easy 😭😭 if only
Does anyone have a pointer to get the coil around the new seal once you get it in. I’m fairly handy but wow is this challenging
Does the new boot have the infused fragrance smell the original had? I have not ordered the new boot yet. Thanks.
The original infused fragrance is the volatile organic compounds out-gassing from manufacturing process. If yours has a fragrance, that's from the detergent or fabric softener used. Pro-tip: don't use anything with synthetic fragrances that you apply to your body, in your home, nor in your washer; unless you want to develop health issues down the road, but no body wants that. They like to profit from our illness, so they trick us into thinking covering up smells with poison is better than resolving the cause of the smell.
Mark, you are incorrect. The new boot absolutely does have the strong infused fragrance that's part of the patented Electrolux anti-microbial treatment. It reeks of this fragrance, and it will get into your clothes and not come out, even if you soak them in vinegar, or borax, or baking soda, or isopropyl alcohol. They infuse this oil-based fragrance into the rubber during the manufacturing process, and it will continue to outgas and get into your clothes for months or years. It's so strong, in fact, that the perfume will likely make you stagger backward when you open the box containing the new boot. So if you have allergies, ordering a new replacement boot won't help. It's a complete nightmare of constant emission of allergy and asthma-inducing VOCs. I've been trying to order a non-fragranced gasket for two weeks, and despite assurances from previous purchasers on amazon, who say they received a non-perfumed boot, I keep getting shipped the original OEM Electrolux gasket with the infused perfume. It seems that for a time there were aftermarket boots being sold without the oily fragrance, but Electrolux doesn't allow it, according to all the appliance parts suppliers that I've contacted. And it seems they may have successfully shut down the aftermarket suppliers within the last few months. I'm still searching for an unscented aftermarket gasket sitting in some warehouse somewhere, with an unusable brand new Electrolux machine sitting in my house, sealed in plastic so I don't stop breathing from allergy-induced asthma. It does make me wonder what the VOCs coming off this gasket might do to the lungs of small pets and children, even if they don't have allergies. Note also that the OEM Electrolux/Frigidaire door boot has a California Prop 65 warning, which I assume is due to that fragranced antimicrobial coating.
@@alanazon1 Wow I just saw your response, thank you for correcting me. I was making a logical assumption, but it was based on assuming the washer that came with the house had the previous owners use fragranced detergent... that's crazy... but this world is crazy. The institutionalized stupidity is very frustrating, especially about things like this. Poison for profit is bad enough, but poison just cause hey why not... geesh. Just one more reason to remove it to clean it and put it back, but that's also assuming it gets reduced with age and use. I still have a new one in the garage. I might open it just to see how it smells.
Yes Comments on removing counter weight ring to get new gasket on were big help. How that guy in video does it so easily, I don't know... but my guess is he may be putting the old gasket back on. When I was realizing I may have missed something regarding fitting on the new gasket I tried putting my old one back on and it seemed to go back on. Hummmh. Guess it was stretched out?
I have another possible (but maybe not safe?) tip regarding putting inside spring back in. I didn't have anyone to help me and the 'clamp' suggestion in the video wasn't working - Since I had counter weight off, I used the tabs which the weights were held on to help me stretch the spring around to opening and onto the groove. Worked, but may not for the faint of heart. I used screws taken off the weight mount to prevent spring from slipping off the tabs and shooting off through a wall, ceiling, or me if my approach proved to be a fail.
He was putting the old one back on. At the start where he cut the plastic ties, he put a small cut in the seal. when he added the new plastic ties that cut was there under it.
Did you have issues with the new boot not sitting flush to the outside tub?
bad design, great video. never buying an electrolux front loader again.
My washer is on a pedestal. Does that change any of the process shown on the video?
Holy Cow this is so very helpful! thank yoU!
The boot seal I ordered was missing the rubber sleeve where the circulation tube goes into. They must have cut it off. I tried to rig it up but I’m not 100% sure the tube will stay in there. This is so irritating.
Thanks for this video, seems so straightforward until the lip seal, struggling with getting the clamps to stay on, they keep popping off. Any suggestions?
sorry, I mean the retainer spring
I am reading the comments looking for guidance as well. Please share if you figure it out!
Make sure the side of the seal facing you does not have wholes around the edge, that side should be facing inward to the machine. Also make sure there’s a notch bump in front of the arrow at the top... that should slot into the notch at the top of the outer ring.
I found that if you start at the top and work left and right until just under half way around, and then use a quick clamp on both sides to hold the spring in place, that you can easily then finish routing it around the bottom half.👍
want to clarify that clamps weren't my idea.. I read that here , but the technique was what I was trying to help with:)
Easy thanks
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I think I will just buy a new washing machine
After watching the video several times and reading everyone's comments, I can get the seal around the edge of the outer drum. However, it doesn't extend over the drum enough in order for the spring to have enough surface to hold it down. Any suggestions?
I'm in the same boat as you. I feel like the replacement part I have now ordered twice from different sources isn't correct.
same boat. any solution? ripped this thing apart in 15min, then 3 days working at trying to get the bellows on in the right way for the spring to be in the right position. In order for the spring to seat, it seems the holes on the bellows need to face down on the spring channel versus flat agains the tub face, but that’s not how the bellows was designed to fit.
Did you ever figure this out? I’m having the same issue.
@@richardsmith5840 did you get it figured out?
@@stephensopha4228 took me a while to check back. hope you figured it out. I did. I wrote about it on the main thread. essentially the top notch on the vanilla colored plastic drum mates to a notch on the underside of the bellows. when you find that and mate them up it’ll then indicate how to fold and lay the bellows.
*Nice tutor!keep it up?🤙🤩
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You should have filmed the part when the new boot seal is being installed from a different angle. His hands are in the way and I can't really see what he's doing.
Great video, thanks!
I just wanted to clean in better and easier since there is a lot off stuff that get stuck around the rubber seal. I don't feel that this is it 😅
Thanks! Too complicated for me.
Would I need to do this just to clean the seal of mold?
If it's moldy you need to replace it
Thats what i did… you can get it way cleaner if you remove and clean in sink with some round drinking straw brushes to get gunk out of all the little drainage holes. It saves ~$100. I have had success in past machines with cleaning drainage channels, then run machine on sanitize with two cups of baking soda and a cup of apple cider vinegar.
I put everything back together but it’s not turning back on. Any suggestions of what might be wrong?
Hmmm. Carefully check the connections that you disconnect. Check plug in wall. Check circuit breaker.
It's like working on a Harley. Gotta remove a ton of junk just to get to 1 bolt or screw that you can see, but can't get to.
TY so much
Is it me or is the boot too small? It fits but it sits proud rather than flush with the outside drum. Any help would be much appreciated. Cheers
Wondering the same. Also after first wash had small rubber pieces peeling off all in the machine and it’s STILL peeling and sitting far back from the drum. Kinda concerned
Thanks!
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I love you guys.
great video!!
What size spring clamps are you using?
thank you!
Thank you
Wow nothing like my Maytag. I can replace the gasket in 10 minutes without all that disassembly.
This is easy, show how it is done on a washer dryer. the rubber seal will not come off.
The real question is why are so many people having this problem after just 2-3 years?
Older machines needed no service for 10+ years.