I would be moving that main board so the cables can run inside the machine and then just run an ethernet and USB extension to the skirt. That was one thing that surprised me. Sovol obviously intended to offer the display but set it up so the cables have to be external. It does make the electronics minimal and neat on the inside, and I guess it does mean you can move the display anywhere but is that really desirable? Dangling cables would annoy me forever. The coiled cable is better but still
It's just a friendlier and more intuitive interface. If you wanted a neater solution it would be a custom DSI solution with a Raspberry Pi so the cables could be completely hidden way... in your Voron. But the Sovol is a consumer product so things are probably expected to be more plug and play.
This has inspired me to modify and use that screen mount for my older Amazon Fire HD 6 tablet. I have my first Klipper 3D printer, The 100 Corexy, and love it now that I have a KlipperScreen for it but no mount just yet. Hoping I can mod that one to fit my tablet.
Was almost expecting you to stop half way and just address the fan while you had the electronics bay open. To me the macros, tool-head (its pretty underwhelming), hot end (proprietary), bed (you mentioned it tho), and lack of panels not being default to me seems much more important. Though when you fix the bed you kinda want to have the probing system (not all that accurate by modern standards) and macros (i.e. not using the load cell correctly) fixed too so you benefit the most. Then again, to me there isn't much point in this system without the panels. There are cheaper just as good printers for doing PLA. Its more the ABS/ASA/PETG/etc filaments that need more of a controlled environment for, hence enclosure [739 USD /w panels]. Also Interested if their panels are any good or if its another drafty implementation like seems common these days. P.S. PLA and ASA (I think also ABS?) are Polymaker for Microcenter. Generally speaking all Inland stuff works with (good) Polymaker profiles even if I am not sure the source on the PETG yet.
Nice. I am still considering getting one. Not sure if you are aware of this or not but Sovol sells the official Sovol blue PLA. I have a roll of it and it matches their printers.
The buttons are for setting screen rotation and brightness. While it would be nice to have brightness controls readily available, for most it isn't a dealbreaker.
The rigid z joints are actually better than flexible ones. What amount are you compensating roughly after enabling steppers? Less than a millimeter probably, across a 500ish long frame this is well within the flexibility of the plastic bits. Some high performance mods like the monolith gantry remove all flexibility in the z joints. Btw, have a look at that for your trident build, allows you to run crazy high belt tensions, most use between 200 and 300hz as well as reduces belt length by about 80 to 90mm while giving you a little more y travel. Files are available for 2wd and 4wd, 6mm belts, 9mm belts, 2.4 and trident. Only downside is that you have reduced toolhead compatibility, the belt teeth are now facing the other direction
@ger go PRINT 3D put up an install/review video about a month ago. I got my machine a couple weeks ago and the enclosure and touch screen arrived at the same time shipped separately.
Nice mod, I ordered the screen and printer together for Solvol, but I think yours looks great. When do you think you will replace the VERRY annoying fan on the power supply? I would have thought that you would've replaced that first . Regards. Mike Irish
I’m not gonna bother with the fan. This machine won’t be making the move with me so that’s the next owner’s concern. I had wanted to address the fan in this video but the whole thing turned into a longer video than I anticipated so I had to move on.
Inland ASA and ABS is also made by Polymaker. Unsure about Inland PETG; I know a few years ago it was thought that ESun was making that for them, but that may have changed.
Problem with “white label” is it can change at any time. So I hesitate to say such things. Their ASA appears to be Polymaker (it’s even called Polylite ASA) but the rest idk. I know they change a color randomly that I used for specific product and it left me high and dry at one point.
@@murphydigital If you're at Micro Center picking up filament all you have to do is open the box and look for the pill shaped cutout on the cardboard spool. This will tell you whether it's PolyMaker (with pill cutout) or eSUN (without pill cutout). Inland used to relabel eSUN & SUNLU but during the pandemic they were having supply chain issues and Micro Center decided to source from both PolyMaker and eSUN to avoid restocking issues. So, the cheapest source for PolyMaker is Micro Center, If you don't have a Micro Center near by all Overture filament is produced by PolyMaker as well.
BTW, even the SOVOL screen kit doesn't latch on with the tabs it comes with. The tabs on the SOVOL version don't align with the slots on the SV08. Not sure why.
I don't understand why someone would care about a screen on a 3d printer. the only functions I use locally at the printer are for emergency stop, preheating, or turning on the hotend in order to swap filament... everything else I do at the computer, inside of orca slicer and the printer's web interface (I generally prefer mainsail which lots of printers (including this one) ships with). you generally have to slice a model before you can print a model, so i slice it, i look it over to make sure it's good, and i hit the print button on the slicer, it gets sent to the printer automagically, and starts printing... no mess. maybe this mod just isn't for me? - this is basically my same response when people talk about the bambu p1s's display (I have one of those too). I have a v2 and a v0 with the simple small screen and click encoder, a k1 max which has it's own touchscreen that I never use except for emergency stop and filament loading, and a p1s... they're all fine, and I really don't understand why someone would care if a printer had a touchscreen vs a clickable rotary encoder... and IF i wanted a touchscreen, all I ever have to do is reach into my pocket, pull out my phone, open a browser, and go to the printer's url (for the klipper printers) and I have everything i'd want in a touchscreen anyway.
Why not make two holes (plus grommets) for the cables to hide them better. 1 next to the screen and 1 next to the ports and feed the cables inside the machine thus only showing the cables next to the port and screen. IMHO would look better than loose cables on the outside.
Too late now, but for anyone else heading down this path, Sovol sells the Sovol Blue PLA. Still trying to convince myself that I need yet another Sovol printer ...
Don't like the mod: too risky for me to have more cables where by accident I can pull them up. Great video, you can keep working on this kind of stuff.
Most BTT screens shipping now are the v1.2 variant which has the cables behind the screen rather than on the side. This means the cables can run through the bracket and into the machine where the existing hole is. There's even a free internal USB connection on the mainboard which can be used. For HDMI, on my machine, I am using a right angle adapter and routing the cable underneath the machine from there. No cables go around the side. Very low likelihood I'll hurt anything on my printer.
You can hot plug the screen all day long. If you snag the cable, you just plug it back in and it’s fine. Or you get shorter cables and route them under the base of the machine. Or around the corner as I showed at the end. But yes there is a variant of this screen that has connections that aren’t exposed and this mount will work with that. However I didn’t get that one and it seems to be luck of the draw, from Amazon anyway.
Actually I like they use a cheap screen to keep the price low. Over time most people collect a lot of old smartphones and tablets, wich could be used as klipper screen. It is great to reuse theese old electronics instead buying new ones. Also reusing them is practicly risk-free, as the stock display is still usable. Forcing people to buy new display hardware even if they have everything needed already collecting dust imho would be the wrong way. I would even prefer no screen at all - you could use a 10 inch tablet and mailail or fluid directly. But a little cheap LCD just to see temperatures and progress is acceptable.
The only real requirement is that the screen has driver support in the particular Linux branch that you are installing on your Klipper powered printer. The smaller monitors that are used are often made specifically to work with basic Linux drivers to make them as easy as possible to setup. Some WaveShare small screens require driver installation to function and that starts to be deeper command line configuration than a lot of people want to get into. All that to say, there is no reason you cannot put a 22" touchscreen on if the drivers are there. I'd say most folks just don't bother cause even a cheap screen of that size costs more tan a lot of 3d printers do. No guarantee the image scaling will be correct, but it could be a fun adventure. I've actually got a 55" touchscreen for my new studio setup... Should we? haha
The idea is good. But when I see that the BTT screen costs me 60 €, I calculate the print file and the conversion effort, the original Sovol screen is not that much more expensive.
This is always the hard part of these things. Here it is less than half the price to get the BTT screen. When I bought it last week it was even cheaper. Never know what prices are like around the world unfortunately.
@@Mobile_Dom idk, reviews are very popular content on yt in general and get lot of views. also not everything has to be just to max out views, that is the difference between quality youtubers.
My absolutely most popular 3d printer review has paid about $400 in a year and a half. It took about 40 hours of work to produce the video (not counting the 100+ hours of print time and diag time on the machine) and I used about $300 worth of filament for that video. (Before I had a filament sponsor.) It pains me to not do them and put that information out, but it’s just a failed business model for me. I’d go bankrupt trying. Instead I just drip in my thoughts on machines in videos like this and in conversations on live streams. It’s a much more sustainable way of handling things.
@@riba2233 views can do well, but the views dont matter when the CPM sucks and you have to put a significant amount of investment, whether time or money, into it
It’s very handy for load and unload of filament, quick offset adjustments, pre heating while doing other things in the studio, and manual movement while physically working on a machine. That and connecting to WiFi over KlipperScreen is the simplest way of doing that in Klipper. I ran my Klipper machines headless for a whole but have grown attached to the screen’s functionality.
So far love my SV08. Been basically printing non stop since it came in. Using a BTT HDMI5 since the beginning.
Hey mate did your screen work out of the box? I got a btt5 and 7, both images are cut off and the touch is out.
I`m Glad you love it. an thanks for the shoutout
Great work. Thanks for making it.
I would be moving that main board so the cables can run inside the machine and then just run an ethernet and USB extension to the skirt. That was one thing that surprised me. Sovol obviously intended to offer the display but set it up so the cables have to be external. It does make the electronics minimal and neat on the inside, and I guess it does mean you can move the display anywhere but is that really desirable? Dangling cables would annoy me forever.
The coiled cable is better but still
It's just a friendlier and more intuitive interface. If you wanted a neater solution it would be a custom DSI solution with a Raspberry Pi so the cables could be completely hidden way... in your Voron. But the Sovol is a consumer product so things are probably expected to be more plug and play.
This has inspired me to modify and use that screen mount for my older Amazon Fire HD 6 tablet. I have my first Klipper 3D printer, The 100 Corexy, and love it now that I have a KlipperScreen for it but no mount just yet. Hoping I can mod that one to fit my tablet.
Was almost expecting you to stop half way and just address the fan while you had the electronics bay open.
To me the macros, tool-head (its pretty underwhelming), hot end (proprietary), bed (you mentioned it tho), and lack of panels not being default to me seems much more important. Though when you fix the bed you kinda want to have the probing system (not all that accurate by modern standards) and macros (i.e. not using the load cell correctly) fixed too so you benefit the most.
Then again, to me there isn't much point in this system without the panels. There are cheaper just as good printers for doing PLA. Its more the ABS/ASA/PETG/etc filaments that need more of a controlled environment for, hence enclosure [739 USD /w panels]. Also Interested if their panels are any good or if its another drafty implementation like seems common these days.
P.S. PLA and ASA (I think also ABS?) are Polymaker for Microcenter. Generally speaking all Inland stuff works with (good) Polymaker profiles even if I am not sure the source on the PETG yet.
Nice. I am still considering getting one. Not sure if you are aware of this or not but Sovol sells the official Sovol blue PLA. I have a roll of it and it matches their printers.
Sovol should release filament that is color matched to the sovol blue for people to mod their machines with.
Sovol sells filament and makes a color matched blue PLA 👍
WHAT. its a design oversight to lose access to the LCD's physical buttons.
The buttons are for setting screen rotation and brightness. While it would be nice to have brightness controls readily available, for most it isn't a dealbreaker.
I like that screen and I already have a smartphone to see klipperscreen
The rigid z joints are actually better than flexible ones. What amount are you compensating roughly after enabling steppers? Less than a millimeter probably, across a 500ish long frame this is well within the flexibility of the plastic bits. Some high performance mods like the monolith gantry remove all flexibility in the z joints. Btw, have a look at that for your trident build, allows you to run crazy high belt tensions, most use between 200 and 300hz as well as reduces belt length by about 80 to 90mm while giving you a little more y travel. Files are available for 2wd and 4wd, 6mm belts, 9mm belts, 2.4 and trident. Only downside is that you have reduced toolhead compatibility, the belt teeth are now facing the other direction
Almost Two months and no single youtuber has shown the SV08 completely enclosed
Cause they haven’t sent us enclosure kits yet. They told me they’d be sending one but it hasn’t shown up.
@ger go PRINT 3D put up an install/review video about a month ago. I got my machine a couple weeks ago and the enclosure and touch screen arrived at the same time shipped separately.
Nice mod, I ordered the screen and printer together for Solvol, but I think yours looks great. When do you think you will replace the VERRY annoying fan on the power supply? I would have thought that you would've replaced that first .
Regards.
Mike Irish
I’m not gonna bother with the fan. This machine won’t be making the move with me so that’s the next owner’s concern. I had wanted to address the fan in this video but the whole thing turned into a longer video than I anticipated so I had to move on.
Is your screen plug and play
AFAIK Polymaker does make the PLA for Inland, not sure about their PETG or ABS though
Inland ASA and ABS is also made by Polymaker. Unsure about Inland PETG; I know a few years ago it was thought that ESun was making that for them, but that may have changed.
Problem with “white label” is it can change at any time. So I hesitate to say such things. Their ASA appears to be Polymaker (it’s even called Polylite ASA) but the rest idk. I know they change a color randomly that I used for specific product and it left me high and dry at one point.
@@murphydigital If you're at Micro Center picking up filament all you have to do is open the box and look for the pill shaped cutout on the cardboard spool. This will tell you whether it's PolyMaker (with pill cutout) or eSUN (without pill cutout). Inland used to relabel eSUN & SUNLU but during the pandemic they were having supply chain issues and Micro Center decided to source from both PolyMaker and eSUN to avoid restocking issues. So, the cheapest source for PolyMaker is Micro Center, If you don't have a Micro Center near by all Overture filament is produced by PolyMaker as well.
BTW, even the SOVOL screen kit doesn't latch on with the tabs it comes with. The tabs on the SOVOL version don't align with the slots on the SV08. Not sure why.
PolyMaker PolyLite Stone Blue is the closest color matching filament I've found yet to the SV08's color scheme
Before I even powered on my SV08 the first thing I did was replace the stock main board fan with a noctua. Whisper quiet.
I don't understand why someone would care about a screen on a 3d printer. the only functions I use locally at the printer are for emergency stop, preheating, or turning on the hotend in order to swap filament... everything else I do at the computer, inside of orca slicer and the printer's web interface (I generally prefer mainsail which lots of printers (including this one) ships with). you generally have to slice a model before you can print a model, so i slice it, i look it over to make sure it's good, and i hit the print button on the slicer, it gets sent to the printer automagically, and starts printing... no mess. maybe this mod just isn't for me? - this is basically my same response when people talk about the bambu p1s's display (I have one of those too). I have a v2 and a v0 with the simple small screen and click encoder, a k1 max which has it's own touchscreen that I never use except for emergency stop and filament loading, and a p1s... they're all fine, and I really don't understand why someone would care if a printer had a touchscreen vs a clickable rotary encoder... and IF i wanted a touchscreen, all I ever have to do is reach into my pocket, pull out my phone, open a browser, and go to the printer's url (for the klipper printers) and I have everything i'd want in a touchscreen anyway.
Looks like the next ender 3
Why not make two holes (plus grommets) for the cables to hide them better. 1 next to the screen and 1 next to the ports and feed the cables inside the machine thus only showing the cables next to the port and screen. IMHO would look better than loose cables on the outside.
Too late now, but for anyone else heading down this path, Sovol sells the Sovol Blue PLA. Still trying to convince myself that I need yet another Sovol printer ...
Don't like the mod: too risky for me to have more cables where by accident I can pull them up. Great video, you can keep working on this kind of stuff.
Most BTT screens shipping now are the v1.2 variant which has the cables behind the screen rather than on the side. This means the cables can run through the bracket and into the machine where the existing hole is. There's even a free internal USB connection on the mainboard which can be used. For HDMI, on my machine, I am using a right angle adapter and routing the cable underneath the machine from there. No cables go around the side. Very low likelihood I'll hurt anything on my printer.
You can hot plug the screen all day long. If you snag the cable, you just plug it back in and it’s fine. Or you get shorter cables and route them under the base of the machine. Or around the corner as I showed at the end.
But yes there is a variant of this screen that has connections that aren’t exposed and this mount will work with that. However I didn’t get that one and it seems to be luck of the draw, from Amazon anyway.
@@MandicLabs Good to know, thanks.
Actually I like they use a cheap screen to keep the price low. Over time most people collect a lot of old smartphones and tablets, wich could be used as klipper screen. It is great to reuse theese old electronics instead buying new ones. Also reusing them is practicly risk-free, as the stock display is still usable. Forcing people to buy new display hardware even if they have everything needed already collecting dust imho would be the wrong way. I would even prefer no screen at all - you could use a 10 inch tablet and mailail or fluid directly. But a little cheap LCD just to see temperatures and progress is acceptable.
is it possible to add an touch screen monitor with 22" too or is it necessary that it is a little one?
The only real requirement is that the screen has driver support in the particular Linux branch that you are installing on your Klipper powered printer. The smaller monitors that are used are often made specifically to work with basic Linux drivers to make them as easy as possible to setup. Some WaveShare small screens require driver installation to function and that starts to be deeper command line configuration than a lot of people want to get into.
All that to say, there is no reason you cannot put a 22" touchscreen on if the drivers are there. I'd say most folks just don't bother cause even a cheap screen of that size costs more tan a lot of 3d printers do. No guarantee the image scaling will be correct, but it could be a fun adventure. I've actually got a 55" touchscreen for my new studio setup... Should we? haha
@@MandicLabs thank you :) 55" sounds nice, would definitely look good on the thumbnail too.
Very strange, the rotate button on my screen doesn't rotate, it mirrors the image.
Nadir - Yourtube wen?
SV08 uses a light periwinkle
If I did this, I would make it so the cables attach from the inside, so there aren't those 2 ugly cables sticking out the side. Just saying...
Huh, you are moving soon?
Didnt you just build out your garage as a better studio? :D
Yeppppp. So well timed. 😑🤣 Now I get to do it again, and better!
The idea is good. But when I see that the BTT screen costs me 60 €, I calculate the print file and the conversion effort, the original Sovol screen is not that much more expensive.
This is always the hard part of these things. Here it is less than half the price to get the BTT screen. When I bought it last week it was even cheaper. Never know what prices are like around the world unfortunately.
on the official btt site the hdmi5 is 41 euros ($44.60) with delivery from China, how come it is 60 euros?
Good luck with support. They're infuriating to deal with, if you ever hear back from them.
I never looked at your sub count. I just assume you had 100-400k+...... wth
This is a voron for smal businesses
Why are you not making reviews anymore?
the effort and time that goes into them is not worth the views and money out of them.
@@Mobile_Dom idk, reviews are very popular content on yt in general and get lot of views. also not everything has to be just to max out views, that is the difference between quality youtubers.
My absolutely most popular 3d printer review has paid about $400 in a year and a half. It took about 40 hours of work to produce the video (not counting the 100+ hours of print time and diag time on the machine) and I used about $300 worth of filament for that video. (Before I had a filament sponsor.) It pains me to not do them and put that information out, but it’s just a failed business model for me. I’d go bankrupt trying. Instead I just drip in my thoughts on machines in videos like this and in conversations on live streams. It’s a much more sustainable way of handling things.
@@MandicLabs interesting, thanks for the insight! A bit surprising that reviews are not performing better.
@@riba2233 views can do well, but the views dont matter when the CPM sucks and you have to put a significant amount of investment, whether time or money, into it
I never use the screen I look at the computer screen and using the web interface on my vorons
It’s very handy for load and unload of filament, quick offset adjustments, pre heating while doing other things in the studio, and manual movement while physically working on a machine. That and connecting to WiFi over KlipperScreen is the simplest way of doing that in Klipper. I ran my Klipper machines headless for a whole but have grown attached to the screen’s functionality.
My screen in zoomed in for some reason
Were you able to fix it? Mine is doing it too.
@@SonicDeathMonkey007 yeah I think I unplugged it and replugged it back up or restart it the machine
Your issue is with the screen of this machine??? Reaellyyy, when you have web interface and a wi-fi connection?
Waste of time video
Is it your machine?
Waste of time comment.
Now just design a stealthburner that fits on there and remove that hideous blue atrocity