Thank you for this video, this confirms my setup is just about perfect, I have a gen 1 skeeter bay pro bay boat with a 175 mercury 2stroke and she runs 55 mph with a decent hole shot. Thank you for this video.
I agree this is a great video, I just repowed a nitro 700LX (17’6”) from a 2003 75hp to a 2013 115hp pro xs. Also added hydraulic steering, wondering if a pwr jackplate is worth the extra $$ to fine tune it depending if I’m alone or with someone else who’s 200lbs +.
Nice! I’m going to mess with my skeeter zx185c soon. It has a 175 vmax Yamaha and I usually get it up to 64 full trim (60-62 with a partner) and I have 4 batteries as well. My jack plate is all the way down but I can see where it is marked where the motor used to be. I guess whenever the previous owner changed the power head or lower unit and didn’t lower it back down.
I have a 2002 Skeeter TZX 190 that I recently purchased. It has a Yamaha 175 HPDI. The engine compression is good on all cylinders. My problem is the hole shot is not good. The front of the boat stands up on take off before planing off. I’m only turning 5000 rpm’s at WOT. It will run around 60 mph. The engine is at 3 1/2” below pad and it has a 25m prop. What would you recommend to help with the hole shot. Thanks
Run a BassCat Sabre with a 175 snd you’ll change your mind about 18’ going 67mph. My Sabre with a 150 was going 61mph with a dinged prop. My puma now will dust everything but another BassCat,Allison, or a gambler. I’m going 78 with a etec 225 now.
There are alot of fast bass boats out there. Hull design has a lot to do with speed and balance. Set up is key. I have ridden in boats at 80 plus MPH with 175 hp stock motors .
Hi. Great video, just a question. With that specific motor with high water pick ups,hows that going to affect the 2.5 inches below pad when the pickups are quite a bit higher then the bullet?
Good question. You have to be mindful of your water pressure for sure! It is possible to raise them out of the water, which is obviously gonna cut water flow through the engine. In this case, my dad said he still had plenty of water pressure at that height.
You guys were measuring to the center of the prop. Most people don't measure there they measure to the little tabs that you mount your whale tails or whatever you want to call them lol. There is a technical name for the tab. It's the ones you put your motor support to when trailering. But I've forgotten it off the top of my head. The bottom of your boat is supposed to be level with this tab so your water pick ups will be submerged. My uncle blew up 2 motors using this technique. Best of luck though. I did learn some little tricks and for that I'm thankful
Oh yeah. When my boat was revving out like yours was at first mention in this video. I upsized the pitch in the prop. This will also add back pressure and keep you in your desired RPM range. I had my 18 foot with a 150 evinrude GPSd at 64 with myself and my cousin. He weighs 210. I weigh 270. Full of gear and over a half tank, going upriver against generation on one of Tennessee's highland reservoirs. So, it should be possible if you consult the right people. I contacted some folks that used to race boats and they have a very well respected boat shop in old Hickory area just outside of Rivergate, Tn.
This boat should go 60 -63 MPH with non surface props. It looks like you could run that prop with a blade above surface. Put a Hydrofoil on the lower unit. It will keep the bow down on holeshot.
Need some help. I have a Triton 186 with a mercury 150. Before when it had no jack plate it got 61. I got a 6inch manual jack plate. Got it back and it was set high. Hole shot was great but too speed was down around 50. I dropped it down pretty much to the bottom and it got back around 56. Now a year later my hole shot is terrible and my top speed is around 48 and not much has changed. I put a new trolling motor and live scope on the front. So not sure what my problem is but need some help.
@@justinmay3271 well, if there has been no major changes in the boat, adding weight like power poles, extra batteries, it's the same prop, you may want to have your outboard checked, it may be getting weak. The jack plate should have done nothing but improve performance, damn sure not drop 10 mph.
Im wanting to get a new skeeter ZX150 or 200, im afraid my weight at 375 lbs is going to keep me on the bank fishing? Wonder how stable these new smaller boats are with bigger guys?
Bassin' Southwest well i hope so. My dad had a 16ft Nitro fiberglass back in the mid 90’s and that boat would rock you to sleep when getting close to the sides leaning over, i guess im afraid the new boats will be the same. Ive heard that most new boats are filled better with foam to help with stability?
I have an 89 evinrude 175 on a 18 ft stratos. No hole shot but top speed is around 57 with 2 people and gear. My pitch is 24. What should I do to get the holeshot qiuicker. 4 blade or drop to 21?
3 blade props are almost always more efficient and faster. If you went to a 4 blade you would more than likely need to drop pitch anyways because of the extra blade. What are you wide open throttle rpms??
@@garydebolt3151 I'm not sure what you wot range is on that motor. It may only be 5500. If you can, drop. It will help the holes hot a ton. You may even gain speed from the extra rpms.
98 Johnson 175 on a 94 Stratos 285 xl pro , im 290 im 3.5 below pad with a 25p Renegade i get 60mph with a full load, gas n gear plus my buddy or son @ 5300 rpms. Mid 60s half full and by myself. Gonna raise it up to 3.25 and see if its faster. I'm not a tournament guy and not in a hurry but id like to be at peak efficiency. Hole shot suffers but top end seems good. Still going to tinker with it. Pretty sure I can go to 5800 rpms without issue.
Ok so what is the "pad" measurement for ...its not explained what is the correct up or down setting after the pad measurement is found ...should it be within 1 inch 2 inch 3 inch ..or is it just ...im gonna go with 2 inches and its good ?
Normally a good starting point is the prop shaft being 3 and a half inches below pad. The pad just being the very bottom back of the boat. So you measure the bottom of the boat to the ground and the center of the propshaft to the ground and subtract. That number is the prop to pad. For instance, if you measure 12" to the bottom of hull to ground and 9" from the center of the propshaft to the ground, you're 3" below pad. Hope that helps.
@@bullet_tech_gaming exactly. Find our where the boat performs the best. Too high you'll have a ton of rpms and not gain speed, too low it may be hard to plane and have crazy chine walk. Gotta find that sweet spot
@@rickharp7456 that is correct. Level the boat first using the jack. Once it's level, trim the motor until the prop shaft/cavitation plate is level. Take your measurements and a 3.5" to 4" difference is a good starting point. Motor lower than hull.
@@dpecotte I have a 18’ Ranger 370V with a Mercury 150. I was running a 21P and it absolutely jumped on plane, went to a 23P and got more speed with close to the same hole shot. I don’t think I could turn a 25 though on my boat but I might try a 24. Great video!
@@emoutdoors5661 thank you! Lower unit gear ratio is something that gets overlooked alot too! Some 150's can turn bigger props because they're geared higher.
Try a Trophy 4 blade small hub 26 -28 pitch and Plug the vents. My old stratos could run a 23 big hub Tempest, ok holeshot by myself not with 300lbs partner, amazing bow lift and speed. Before GPS the dash and my X70a Lowrance said 69-70mph, but tons of wheel torque, cable steering. Went to the 4 blade small hub Trophy 25 pitch. Same top end better holeshot, not as much lift, and could take a 300 lbs partner.
What boat is that exactly I have a 2000 zx 185c dc with a 150 optimax and my performance is terrible no hole to speak of 49.8 top speed by myself 3 1/4 prop to pad on jackplate with 23p prop. Now I don't have a 175 so I don't expect 60+ but it should be far better than it is currently
98 z185c. You may have some issues with the motor. Not getting wide open throttle or something like that. That boat should be mid 50's easy with a 150.
@@dpecotte i appreciate your quick reply. motor checks out and runs great other than being slow with no holeshot Im not sure what to try maybe drop to 21p prop or a 4 blade! If you like a terrible holeshot and about 46/47 top speed it's perfect lol
@@marshall2294 if you go to a smaller pitch prop, your blowout it probably gonna get worse. Your motor may be too high and as the boat lifts, you lose bite.
a different jack plate or add wedges to that one for more positive trim for better Hole shot . bob's machine cavitation plate also better hole shot because Rooster tall is a negative . Bob machine low water . I'm spending a 28 pitch chopper 5800 rpm 78mph
So you're just guessing at it? Your supposed to set the cavitation plate in regards to the lowest point on your keel. It should be within an inch up or down. I have no clue why you're measuring from the ground. Just put a straight edge on your keel and the flat plate above the prop should be level with the straight edge and the keel. Or at least within 1". On my boat the motor is all the way down and still 2" above where it should be, so when I go full throttle, boat noses down, engine revs up and doesn't go any faster... Like it's doing a burn out!
If your boat and trailer allow, you can run a straight edge and measure down. Either way. But the boat and motor combo will have a sweet spot. You can set the cavitation plate even with the bottom of the boat, but that is pretty low. Most boats will benefit from a higher setting.
@@Manuel_Z_Kayaks your boat should have a placard that tells you max horsepower. I would try lowering the plate a hair or going up in pitch. What motor/boat you running? What prop pitch and how many rpms?
The even with the Cavitation/ventilation Plate theory assumes the engine is mounted on the transom of the boat. As the engine is moved back from the transom the cavitation/ventilation plate should be raised higher. I have seen 10" to 1" and 12" to 1" ratios (example using the 10 to 1 ratio: for every 10" the engine moves back from the transom raise the engine so the cavitation/ventilation plate is 1" higher) but I think those ratios are on the very conservative side. In current Mercury ProXS engine manuals Mercury doesn't even talk about the cavitation/ventilation plate anymore and the chart shows changing the mounting height for an engine (mounted on the transom) in relation to the height on the transom adjusted for the boats' maximum speed.
Useless...Tell us something we don't already know. Above pad, below pad, up, down..back to square one. Could have shown some straight edge illustrations..water inlet height, etc. Wasted my time for sure.
Thank you for making this video, i'm new to the world of boating so these kinds of tutorials are amazing.
Thank you for this video, this confirms my setup is just about perfect, I have a gen 1 skeeter bay pro bay boat with a 175 mercury 2stroke and she runs 55 mph with a decent hole shot. Thank you for this video.
Great video!
Thanks buddy! I'd like to add you and dirk to that sponsor page! 😉
Great video thanks
I agree this is a great video, I just repowed a nitro 700LX (17’6”) from a 2003 75hp to a 2013 115hp pro xs. Also added hydraulic steering, wondering if a pwr jackplate is worth the extra $$ to fine tune it depending if I’m alone or with someone else who’s 200lbs +.
I bet you move pretty good now!!
Nice! I’m going to mess with my skeeter zx185c soon. It has a 175 vmax Yamaha and I usually get it up to 64 full trim (60-62 with a partner) and I have 4 batteries as well. My jack plate is all the way down but I can see where it is marked where the motor used to be. I guess whenever the previous owner changed the power head or lower unit and didn’t lower it back down.
I would for sure!! Always get the most you can out of it.
I have the same boat! A ‘97. Mine runs great but tends to dig in too much on a turn. Trim changes don’t help. Jack plate?
I have a 2002 Skeeter TZX 190 that I recently purchased. It has a Yamaha 175 HPDI. The engine compression is good on all cylinders. My problem is the hole shot is not good. The front of the boat stands up on take off before planing off. I’m only turning 5000 rpm’s at WOT. It will run around 60 mph. The engine is at 3 1/2” below pad and it has a 25m prop. What would you recommend to help with the hole shot. Thanks
Run a BassCat Sabre with a 175 snd you’ll change your mind about 18’ going 67mph. My Sabre with a 150 was going 61mph with a dinged prop. My puma now will dust everything but another BassCat,Allison, or a gambler. I’m going 78 with a etec 225 now.
I’m running 68 with a 115 Pro XS.
It’s all in the set up, and not running a super heavy glass boat 😉
There are alot of fast bass boats out there. Hull design has a lot to do with speed and balance. Set up is key. I have ridden in boats at 80 plus MPH with 175 hp stock motors .
Hi. Great video, just a question. With that specific motor with high water pick ups,hows that going to affect the 2.5 inches below pad when the pickups are quite a bit higher then the bullet?
Good question. You have to be mindful of your water pressure for sure! It is possible to raise them out of the water, which is obviously gonna cut water flow through the engine. In this case, my dad said he still had plenty of water pressure at that height.
You guys were measuring to the center of the prop. Most people don't measure there they measure to the little tabs that you mount your whale tails or whatever you want to call them lol. There is a technical name for the tab. It's the ones you put your motor support to when trailering. But I've forgotten it off the top of my head. The bottom of your boat is supposed to be level with this tab so your water pick ups will be submerged. My uncle blew up 2 motors using this technique. Best of luck though. I did learn some little tricks and for that I'm thankful
Oh yeah. When my boat was revving out like yours was at first mention in this video. I upsized the pitch in the prop. This will also add back pressure and keep you in your desired RPM range. I had my 18 foot with a 150 evinrude GPSd at 64 with myself and my cousin. He weighs 210. I weigh 270. Full of gear and over a half tank, going upriver against generation on one of Tennessee's highland reservoirs. So, it should be possible if you consult the right people. I contacted some folks that used to race boats and they have a very well respected boat shop in old Hickory area just outside of Rivergate, Tn.
This boat should go 60 -63 MPH with non surface props. It looks like you could run that prop with a blade above surface. Put a Hydrofoil on the lower unit. It will keep the bow down on holeshot.
Need some help. I have a Triton 186 with a mercury 150. Before when it had no jack plate it got 61. I got a 6inch manual jack plate. Got it back and it was set high. Hole shot was great but too speed was down around 50. I dropped it down pretty much to the bottom and it got back around 56. Now a year later my hole shot is terrible and my top speed is around 48 and not much has changed. I put a new trolling motor and live scope on the front. So not sure what my problem is but need some help.
I need more information. Are these GPS speeds? What prop? Wide open throttle rpms?
@@dpecotte yes gps speed. A 25 pitch tempest. Same prop that came on the boat. I couldn’t tell you rpms off the top of my head.
@@justinmay3271 well, if there has been no major changes in the boat, adding weight like power poles, extra batteries, it's the same prop, you may want to have your outboard checked, it may be getting weak. The jack plate should have done nothing but improve performance, damn sure not drop 10 mph.
Im wanting to get a new skeeter ZX150 or 200, im afraid my weight at 375 lbs is going to keep me on the bank fishing? Wonder how stable these new smaller boats are with bigger guys?
You'll be just fine!
Bassin' Southwest well i hope so. My dad had a 16ft Nitro fiberglass back in the mid 90’s and that boat would rock you to sleep when getting close to the sides leaning over, i guess im afraid the new boats will be the same. Ive heard that most new boats are filled better with foam to help with stability?
I have an 89 evinrude 175 on a 18 ft stratos. No hole shot but top speed is around 57 with 2 people and gear. My pitch is 24. What should I do to get the holeshot qiuicker. 4 blade or drop to 21?
3 blade props are almost always more efficient and faster. If you went to a 4 blade you would more than likely need to drop pitch anyways because of the extra blade. What are you wide open throttle rpms??
5300
@@garydebolt3151 I'm not sure what you wot range is on that motor. It may only be 5500. If you can, drop. It will help the holes hot a ton. You may even gain speed from the extra rpms.
98 Johnson 175 on a 94 Stratos 285 xl pro , im 290 im 3.5 below pad with a 25p Renegade i get 60mph with a full load, gas n gear plus my buddy or son @ 5300 rpms. Mid 60s half full and by myself.
Gonna raise it up to 3.25 and see if its faster. I'm not a tournament guy and not in a hurry but id like to be at peak efficiency.
Hole shot suffers but top end seems good. Still going to tinker with it. Pretty sure I can go to 5800 rpms without issue.
87 stratos 17ft fish and ski 64mph 150 Merc black max no fishing load.
What size prop you running?
This boat at the time was running a 25 pitch Tempest Plus.
Ok so what is the "pad" measurement for ...its not explained what is the correct up or down setting after the pad measurement is found ...should it be within 1 inch 2 inch 3 inch ..or is it just ...im gonna go with 2 inches and its good ?
Normally a good starting point is the prop shaft being 3 and a half inches below pad. The pad just being the very bottom back of the boat. So you measure the bottom of the boat to the ground and the center of the propshaft to the ground and subtract. That number is the prop to pad. For instance, if you measure 12" to the bottom of hull to ground and 9" from the center of the propshaft to the ground, you're 3" below pad. Hope that helps.
@@dpecotte so start at 3.5" and just go from there ..up or down by testing ..?
@@bullet_tech_gaming exactly. Find our where the boat performs the best. Too high you'll have a ton of rpms and not gain speed, too low it may be hard to plane and have crazy chine walk. Gotta find that sweet spot
Try changing the prop!
That's part of it too, but you have to repeat everything with a new prop. Different lift, different bite. We just didnt have another to try.
When you level the boat is it back to front and side to side
Bottom is most important. Obviously find as flat a spot at possible.
I got the level spot and your boat is level on trailer do you lower the front of boat to make boat level front to back?
@@rickharp7456 that is correct. Level the boat first using the jack. Once it's level, trim the motor until the prop shaft/cavitation plate is level. Take your measurements and a 3.5" to 4" difference is a good starting point. Motor lower than hull.
What prop model and pitch are you running?
He's running a Tepmpest Plus 25
@@dpecotte I have a 18’ Ranger 370V with a Mercury 150. I was running a 21P and it absolutely jumped on plane, went to a 23P and got more speed with close to the same hole shot. I don’t think I could turn a 25 though on my boat but I might try a 24. Great video!
@@emoutdoors5661 thank you! Lower unit gear ratio is something that gets overlooked alot too! Some 150's can turn bigger props because they're geared higher.
Try a Trophy 4 blade small hub 26 -28 pitch and Plug the vents.
My old stratos could run a 23 big hub Tempest, ok holeshot by myself not with 300lbs partner, amazing bow lift and speed. Before GPS the dash and my X70a Lowrance said 69-70mph, but tons of wheel torque, cable steering.
Went to the 4 blade small hub Trophy 25 pitch. Same top end better holeshot, not as much lift, and could take a 300 lbs partner.
What boat is that exactly I have a 2000 zx 185c dc with a 150 optimax and my performance is terrible no hole to speak of 49.8 top speed by myself 3 1/4 prop to pad on jackplate with 23p prop. Now I don't have a 175 so I don't expect 60+ but it should be far better than it is currently
98 z185c. You may have some issues with the motor. Not getting wide open throttle or something like that. That boat should be mid 50's easy with a 150.
@@dpecotte i appreciate your quick reply. motor checks out and runs great other than being slow with no holeshot Im not sure what to try maybe drop to 21p prop or a 4 blade! If you like a terrible holeshot and about 46/47 top speed it's perfect lol
@@dpecotte anything above about 4800 rpm it just blows out don't gain nothing
@@marshall2294 if you go to a smaller pitch prop, your blowout it probably gonna get worse. Your motor may be too high and as the boat lifts, you lose bite.
@@dpecotte what about holeshot even with jackplate all the way down it's better but nothing to brag about?
18 ' 78 mph 1985 sf 175
What are you trying to tell us here?
LiAr!!!!
@@dpecotte there's a few more little things that can be done
a different jack plate or add wedges to that one for more positive trim for better Hole shot . bob's machine cavitation plate also better hole shot because Rooster tall is a negative . Bob machine low water . I'm spending a 28 pitch chopper 5800 rpm 78mph
We run 78 mph
Not with a 175!
@@dpecotte it's a 250
So you're just guessing at it?
Your supposed to set the cavitation plate in regards to the lowest point on your keel. It should be within an inch up or down.
I have no clue why you're measuring from the ground.
Just put a straight edge on your keel and the flat plate above the prop should be level with the straight edge and the keel. Or at least within 1".
On my boat the motor is all the way down and still 2" above where it should be, so when I go full throttle, boat noses down, engine revs up and doesn't go any faster... Like it's doing a burn out!
If your boat and trailer allow, you can run a straight edge and measure down. Either way. But the boat and motor combo will have a sweet spot. You can set the cavitation plate even with the bottom of the boat, but that is pretty low. Most boats will benefit from a higher setting.
@@dpecotte I think my boat is overpowered and the stainless prop is pulling air from the surface when I go past half throttle
@@Manuel_Z_Kayaks your boat should have a placard that tells you max horsepower. I would try lowering the plate a hair or going up in pitch. What motor/boat you running? What prop pitch and how many rpms?
The even with the Cavitation/ventilation Plate theory assumes the engine is mounted on the transom of the boat. As the engine is moved back from the transom the cavitation/ventilation plate should be raised higher. I have seen 10" to 1" and 12" to 1" ratios (example using the 10 to 1 ratio: for every 10" the engine moves back from the transom raise the engine so the cavitation/ventilation plate is 1" higher) but I think those ratios are on the very conservative side.
In current Mercury ProXS engine manuals Mercury doesn't even talk about the cavitation/ventilation plate anymore and the chart shows changing the mounting height for an engine (mounted on the transom) in relation to the height on the transom adjusted for the boats' maximum speed.
Just get to the point already. I didn't even wait for the info about jack-plates.
Feel free to move along then!
Useless...Tell us something we don't already know. Above pad, below pad, up, down..back to square one. Could have shown some straight edge illustrations..water inlet height, etc. Wasted my time for sure.