Good Video, One of the Better Explanations of Cavitation. 46 yrs ago I noticed the Paint and later the Metal on our Boat's Prop burning away, right at the Front Blade where the Blade Met the Hub. I was a Teen at the Time but I had read about Cavitation Burn, and figured that was was it was. It was one of the Old OMC V4s with an Itty Bitty Gearcase with Props that were smaller than the Props they put on the their 40hp, and 33hp engines. Almost no Gear Reduction in the Gear Case; 23:20. at those rotational speeds I'm certain the Blades had serious Cavitation Trails behind them. in 1969, OMC upgraded their Gearcases, and Prop Designs and were Equal to what Mercury had been using for about a Decade
Thank you for your video!!! I've been boating for 13 years now and have never thought about it until I saw your video. I'll be inspecting my prop often. Again, Thanks!
Wish I had seen this video about 15 years ago. I couldn't figure out why my jet ski started porpoising. Eventually I was figured out some of the mounting screws on the front intake grate had worked loose causing the intake grate to drop down during operation, dragging in the water and creating ventilation. A couple new screws and some locktite made it a cheap fix but it scared me for while as a couple mechanics looked at it and couldn't figure it out. I can attest, your video is very informative and useful and will make someones life easier when they understand what is going on with their craft
Beginning of 2022 summer boat sat in the water for a month before I got to use it. Even with a freshly painted anti-fouling drive and props I had tons of growth. The barnacles and other growths limited the boat to 2800 RPM only. I was also running hot as the barncles made their way into thie water inlet. Took the boat out of the water took the drive off cleaned everything off prep and repainted and fixed all my issues.
Searched your channel a while back to help me figure out issues with my boat...Found a hook in my hull which was causing the bow to ride really low above 3/4 throttle, and I couldn't correct for it because when I would trim up, the prop would ventilate and become worse... thankfully I have an aluminum boat and was able to reshape the metal so the hook is about 90% gone and now I can run wide open, full RPMs with no issues...about to install setback/jackplate to get my engine in some cleaner water to really improve the performance...can you do a video explaining how setback effects boats? Your channel has helped me tremendously. Keep it up.
My first boat back in the 80's suffered from ventilation because the outboard was too short for the transom. It would rev up when I turned unless I did so very slowly. I ended up putting a different outboard on it.
Thanks for doing the research and then giving it to us. I had just bought a Suzuki DF200A for my Grady White Escape 209. I did my own installation. I mounted it according to the information that I had gleaned off of the internet and initially it ran very well. The problem was that once I started to turn, it ventilated. I couldnt correct with trim. I would straighten it out and the speed would increase nicely and the fuel economy would go up accordingly. But those turns. I pulled the boat and dropped it down 2 holes on the mounting bracket. The next test showed that I had found the sweet spot. The boat lost about 2 mph in top end but it would keep pushing in clean water throughout the turns.
I intentionally raised the height of the outboard on my fishing boat. I was set so low that I had a spray of water back into the boat. Now with it properly installed I can get ventilation only when on a very sharp turn, I have to be trying to do this to make it happen. However the installation of the jack-plate and raising the outboard has paid off in more speed, better fuel economy,and no water spraying back into the boat.
I'm experiencing Ventilation at the moment with my Tinny after raising the motor up at the back, but I was calling it Cavitation until I learned the difference. LOL!
I Was having the ventilation issue P.O had motor bolted as high as it would go, dropped down one hole and gained 300 rpm. Stopped having that slipping feeling. Great video Thanks
We have a pontoon boat with 150 hp Mercury. It will periodically ventilate . It seems like we get a lot of "splash" back fhere when it does that and it will do it even when engine is trimmed all the way down. I have to throttle down and thrn it works OK. Happens most often at about half throttle.
1st day on the water with a Tracker Grizzly 1860 cc and a 90 hp merc. Getting ventilation and cavitation but at different trims and rpms. Can't plane the boat. Could it be a large transducer too close to the prop?
A couple months ago I purchased a 2004 Nitro 929 cdx , when the old owner took me out on the lake he tried to explain to back off at a certain point and hit the throttle again. I tried to recreate his throttling to get it up on plane , took me for ever. I could hear and feel the prop spin but not bite for the hole shot. He suggested dropping the mount one more hole, I just couldn't understand a almost 20 year old boat and no one had done this as yet. I noticed 3 holes at the back of the prop and remembered an article I had read. One hole had a rubber grommet with the center open, I had read some thing about a Merc Tempest design and grommets. I called a Marina explained the spin , they told me to stop by for some more grommets it's getting to much air. I placed two that fully closed the other holes. The 225 horse just bucked an took off like a bat outta heck. It has worked so far , a 12 dollar fix... I hope is all.
When the pressure, at any point on or near the prop, drops below the vapor pressure of water at its current temperature, the water boils; creating water vapor, not air. When the water vapor bubble moves to an area of pressure greater than the vapor pressure, it collapses. That collapse acts like a tiny shape charge and creates pressures near 100,000 psi. This is well above the strength of steel and aluminum, meaning both are going to start pitting.
Buy and mount an SE Sport 300 hydrofoil. Best upgrade you’ll ever do! All these issues will completely go away. Check out reviews on it. 15 years running and still 100% satisfied!!!
BAB University! thanks for all the content. I am currently searching for a new aluminum frame trailer for my boat, a Nitro Bay 2200. I think a great video you can do is on how to size the correct trailer for boats. The trailer my boat has is not fitted for it, it only works. So when I am loading it I have to be really careful so that I don't damage the hull. It takes me about 15 min to get everything right before I can leave the lake. I'm sure I shouldn't be using it but I've had it for 1 year and only have used it 5 times because I usually dont have time lol. IOWs, the urge to go fishing beats me. Thank you for all the content you provide bud! 👍
I noticed cavitation on my ski boat. I get vibrations and the pitch of the engine changes. I also see the little implosions on the leading edge of my rudder. I noticed the cavitation happening when I start to ride on some light crests. Ski boats are just not made for rough water.
When measuring the location cavitation plate to the bottom of the boat where should the trim of the motor be set? ie All the way down/in or should it be trimmed up some and how much?
On my last outing offshore I went out fine. But was venting or cavitating on the way in. At first I thought it was sargasso weeds and cleared it a few times but then I was in clean water and it was bad all the way in. Then in the canal everything was okay. I was really confused, I am going back to the boat today and look at my gear oil, and prop conditions and the points you mention in this video, and run it again to see if I can figure this out.I decided it’s an older prop and the combination of a transducer and the prop aging and minor damage in a certain sea condition was bringing it on. Hopefully I’ll figure it out.
My neighbour had a 23 ft very deep V boat with a 260 hp stern drive, full of fuel and 2 people with not much else, it would not take full throttle, would get to 19 knots and not plane, it got cavitation, not aeration, and vibrate really bad, we changed props but it still had the same problem. I can't remember the brand, but it was like a 1984 24 degree boat that handled really bad in waves and when someone moved from one side to the other.
I have a new 2019 Verado 250. Brand new it was not shaking at idle, now it shakes at idle. What could it be? I do not see the propeller wobbling. However the center nut it seems not to be centered when I spin the propeller by hand. Could it be that? Only has 35 hours.
I thought my 25 hp had spun a prop so l replaced it from a 11npitch to a 13 pitch and it seems to do the same thing as the 11 Pitch. I haven't marked either to check if they're actually spinning or if l have a drive gear issue.
I feel this on our 38ft when it has a lot of barnacles on the hull. On a low speed there is no much affect, but when we are on a high speed the RPM will just go high and the movement of the boat was slow.
I have a 1994 trophy series bayliner 2002 I have to take up a 200 yard area across a river to make a turn at full throttle. Even then it did this . It takes the boat over 100 yards to plain out . I have never owned a boat that stands up so far in the front and takes so long to plain out . I think there is something wrong with the power of the motor . It's like it's worn out but I was told it has 130 lbs of compression on each cylinder. I hope to figure these things out soon , just got the boat a week ago .
This video is amazing! Very informative. I was actually just browsing through boat videos and this came up. My brothers boat now that it was mentioned ether has the prop spinning on the splines or ventilation.
Modern stainless steel propellers can be rebuilt, repitched,, more or less cup added or taken away by a competent propellor shop usually far cheaper than purchasing a new stainless steel prop. Unless the pitch selection is grossly ( more than 2-3 degrees) out of parameter. Aluminum propellers are usually cheaper to replace but, it would still not hurt to do a little talking to a repair facility before making the decision to replace a propeller. A good quality stainless propeller for most larger engines ( 90 hp and up) usually are in the $600-900 dollar range or more depending on brand. Just an old man thinking out loud.
I work on my friends wave runner every once in a while. Trying to explain cavitation and why it’s not a good idea to start in shallow water or run it onto the beach with the motor on was a long conversion.
Had an Evinrude 150 plastic snap ring that goes into the lower unit was missing and I was getting cavitation exhaust through in around propeller took a while to figure out a 10 dollar part keep me from moving
any chance you could share a photo. I have a 150HP johnson that has been been giving me cavitation issues for 3 years now and I am losing my mind. thanks
I think you described exactly what may be happening with mine, sometimes when circling the lake I feel loss of power and vibration through out the pontoon and when I ese off the throttle it goes away? I have noticed a few nicks on my prop but the local mechanic told me it is fine.
Propping a boat just right is really a tricky business. You watch videos, use prop calculation formulas and stuff like that but that really just provides a starting point about which prop to try. I adjust boat load balance, change props, vary the engine height, put on a hydrofoil and keep running the boat at my best cruising speed in choppy seas until it feel right and mpg are good. Also check that the engine can attain full rpm at WOT to prevent engine labouring which shortens its life. When the boat runs right I dont know exactly why it runs right, it was the product of a little theory and science and a lot of trail and error. It helps a lot if you have a prop shop that lets you try out props and change them without having to buy a bunch of props to find the right setup. Then when you buy another boat you can do it all again, if you're a prop perfectionist that is.
Awesome stuff.....having a ventilation prob, engine kept having a short rev burst every once in a while.... .scared me to death, now i know, so thank you.
I have a 2018 mercury 100 hp command thrust with today a black max aluminium 17p that slips on the water under hard accelration or trimming out on the outboard. I bought a slightly used mercury vengeance 19p can i use the samme flo torq ii hub kit i use on the black max on this vengeance prop?
I have twin 200 ox66 starboard engine has cavitation at over 35mph in a chop and have to stop boat to regain grip it will not regain grip unless boat is stopped
Excellent video of explanation without getting too scientific 👌 small Knicks in the prop can also gather enough oxygen molecules to create bubbles before the prop thus creating a higher pressure system, therefore, Cavitation. But this video will educate most and it explains everything for the average boaty 👍
what a coincident i stumble on this vid. was just on the water & prop was loosing grip every 30 sec @ wot. truned out to be the bouncing from very choppy conditions.
✔️No long drawn out Hollywood intro ✔️ No stupid annoying loud music ✔️✔️✔️No “eeehh, What’s up guys?” ✔️Informative ✔️Knowledgeable Thanks, appreciation and cudos to you!
so i think i have cavitation issue, with vibration of boat/motor from around 2000-2500 rpm.then it goes away as i increase rpm/speed.so would i change pitch of motor get rid of this.? thanks john
Lucky you 😂, mine comes with something like a stick/rod with a slab like thing at the end. Been beating the water with it but it never goes any faster. Sorry for the late reply, been off grid since COVID emerged.
I have a 30' cruiser w twin bravo one ss props if i do not hole shot the engines and try to gradually plane i get as described in video propeller venting once this starts i have to back off and most of the time idle back and hole shot to obtain plane. One note repowered from abt 260 hp to now abt 300 hp per engine but i did not have the boat prior to repower so not able to note if condition existed previous. Any thoughts out there again 30' cruiser twin 5.7 Bravo 1 vortec tbi .040 over. Turns up 4250 maybe a bit more under optimal conditions.
new to me 1994 20 foot pontoon, it cavitates to me, but i think its the inner water flow of the pontoons hitting the short transume pontoon just before the motor platte. Motor is max down in the water based on the tilt trim motor,. Just hitting other boat wakes makes it rev up and slow down. It has a new direct evinrude propellar. going to check out shaft length and motor height on the transum.
I am so glad I stumbled upon this interesting video, just a pity you didn't complete it. IE How to fix problems - I have a huge problem with ventilation and, not cavitation as I just learned. It is really bad, I suspect that the motor is mounted too high. Where can I find more info on how high the anti-ventilation plate must be from the bottom of the hull? I mounted rubber/plastic skimmers on the ventilation plate but this seems to make it even worse as it lifts the motor up out of the water, the prop then literally runs just underneath the surface of the water level. The second problem that may be related to this is when I pull away the nose of the boat wants to lift up. I have an Infanta 6,5m rubber duct with a 75Hp Honda marine motor on. The boat was a factory build Infanta by Honda Knysna, South Africa.
YES !! I had my prop stolen.off my boat and I didn't no the size that was on my outboard now my new prop.is crap and constantly blows air wish I knew were to start size wise
I’m having a lot of issues with a boat and getting the correct propeller. To start off, I have a 19’ bowrider with a 150 4 stroke. I started off with a 19 pitch mercury black max. It was over reviving at top speed 52mph and the boat was also hard to control. It would chine walk at WOT. Then I got a black max 21 pitch and the prop would feel like it was slipping. I second guessed myself and thought I might have forgot to tighten the nut! Next I purchased a 19 pitch Michigan wheel Apollo 3 blade. I had no issues with slipping but the chine walking returned at wide open throttle. I got a deal on a high five 21 pitch and figured I’d give it a shot. I tried it out today and the prop feels like it’s slipping again. If I punch it, the engine over revs. I feel like I’m fighting a losing battle here. Im also wondering if my engine is too high but it’s mounted as low as it can be and the ventilation plate is about an inch above the bottom of the hull. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks for this video. I hit something last season that didn't cause immediate issues, but the next time we went out my RPM was high and our power/speed was low. I've changed the hub and had a few mechanics look at it. It seems like something is slipping but we cannot find the issue. I plan to look into this as a possible cause. Thanks again.
Hi Tom. Pull the prop and draw a line with a felt marker across the front of the hub and prop and reinstall it and try it out. After running it for a bit, pull the prop again and inspect the lines. If they are out of alignment, you'll know your hub is slipping as the marks should stay lined up.
would like to see yall or somebody make a video on setting engine height on a tunnel hull-i got a 20ft paradise boat works tunnel hull-i put a manuel jack plate on and tested on a lake and have run 3years in the gulf-i have - rooster tails on both sides-online videos say im too deep-im saving for a microjacker next year-w a tunnel you have to have low to start but i guess its even lower when on plane?is the answer a electric jackplate or should i install a tilt and trim-my engine used to have
now I don't have to many brain cells but I've always wondered how you don't cut your feet of when climbing down the ladder on the back. do you have to wait for the propellers to stop spinning?
Hello, what an amazing video, thank you. I have one question. I bought a new Everglades’s 315 with twin Yamaha 4.3 V6 motors. When I am on plane. The AV plate is 2-3 in below the surface. Is this normal? Right now I run on plane at 4600 rpms trimmed up 4 bars at 35mph. If I bring the motors up will I ventilate or blow out? I probably need to try to see. I definitely need the engines trimmed down all the way to get moving from a stand still or I feel sluggish. Thank you
Hello and thank you! I'm not really sure on the AV plates being under while on plane, technically they shouldn't be, but that's a bigger and heavier boat, I'd be wondering what the top speed is, top RPM, and all that to determine if there is an issue. You definitely need to play around with the trimming to find the best spot to run for cruising speed lol But yes, when taking off on any boat you need to have the engines fully tucked in or trimmed down because you gotta get the boat up on the water before you start to trim, the trim gives you bow lift: ua-cam.com/video/Ka-DFJfVW5Q/v-deo.html&t ua-cam.com/video/l38u85CkmkE/v-deo.html
How do you know what is the right prop for your boat? For example, one day in the future I plan on building a boat from a haul. If I put a modern outboard with an engine platform on the back of a center console, how would I know what size, pitch and blade count is best, or where to start?
Excellent video...I just went over this 3 weeks ago with a group of 25...cavitation only comes off the back side of the prop blades...it will boil the water...ABYC has an excellent course on props....
So I'm having ventilation troubles now and I think you just solved it. I have big gap Infront of prop and gases are coming out there. I'll fix that and try it.
I have twin 60hp only 115hrs on the new props as well as the engine. There is striping on the left prop on all three blades. On the pressure side. The edge of the prop is clean. What do you think could be the problem?
What is the white, solid, stream, of bubbles comming from the center hub of the propeller when turning under the water? I guess im asking, what causes that stream???
Thanks for the great video! How will I know if my engine is mounted too high? What are the clear signs that the propeller is getting air, even a little bit?
Hey Aaron, my problem is when I turn too hard I get ventilation. Not sure why my anti ventilation plate rides right on top of the water when running and planed out. But when turning hard port or starboard it sucks in air. I have tried different angles of trim but no luck. Any thing you can help me with would be greatly appreciated. Another great video with all kinds of useful information. Thanks 👍😎🌴. Be safe out there.
Yes 9.9 Johnson with flat bottom boat ... we started out from dock ...then when I throttled up boat barley moved noticed lots of bubbles trailing in wake was like something was holding us back ... this was on a power plant lake where the water temperature was probably 75° or higher I just thought maybe it was the temperature of the water that was the cause of that reaction it never happened to me before on other lakes???
VERY INTERESTING! I just put a riser bracket on the back of my 11' tinny so the Cavitation Plate on my 5hp outboard is level with the back of the boat. It flies when on plane with the weight distributed in the boat properly BUT Ventilates when you try to turn. Seeing this Video where you say any obstruction may cause Air bubbles has made me realise I didn't take into consideration the Rib that runs down the centre of the boat hull underneath. The plate is level with the flat of the hull but higher than the Rib down the centre. I think when I turn Im getting air off the Rib that makes the motor ventilate.
Hi guys I’m a new subscriber. I have a 2000 Grady white 226. I just got her home yesterday I had a shop install an aluminum floatable offshore bracket, fiberglass the back up, install new 2021 Yamaha 250 4 stroke motor we also cut out the back compartments and made the back bigger for fishing room. We also installed a below deck fish box custom. I took the boat out today for my first time with all the new upgrades and it seems like the rear end is sucking down and I need to go over 3500 RPM with the motor trim down just to get going. It has less power than I used to have with my original set up which did not have the offshore bracket and had a 3.3 vs the 4.2l motor that I have now. I watched a couple of your videos and it looks like there could be several different possible problems. Where can I post a couple of pictures for you and your members to see and maybe give me an idea of what could be wrong. I feel like when I am driving the boat the motor is too low in the water, the water level is almost up to the lower cowling I’m getting a lot of splash back as well/rooster tails. Also another thing I noticed is when I am just going slow the front of the boat feels a lot closer to the water which is weird I would think the back would be lower with all the new weight in there. We did move the two batteries up in the front cabin. Overall I had a lot of work done on the boat. Thank you I appreciate any suggestions or help.
@@guillermoperea2702 73K. It started as 55K ( Just the new motor with all misc parts roughly 27+K) for everything with 2021 Yamaha 250 all-new wiring and all. but then I found out that a lot of items had the letters TBD ( to be discussed) I was not aware of that. We shook hands at the $55K number then I got a bill for $80 + Thousand and blow a gasket. After going back a forth we settled at $73K The price includes all custom transom and cutting out the compartments in the back, new batteries relocated to front, custom large insulated below deck fish box, etc. Honestly, if I know it was going to be this much, I would have just bought a brand new boat. The good news is that I built a custom boat that fits my needs and is now a fish-killing machine. Also, everything That was installed was all good quality material no cheap parts which also added to the final bill.
@@silverbull2932 dam I have a 28 footer WA with an inboard, was planning to remove the inboard and install a 250 with a bracket. Was just planing to spend about 35 thousand, but I might change my mind I can get a brand new 25 foot center console with a brand new 250 for 70000.
@@benjigans1419 lol... no stress, bud. I missed the number, too. Your comment had me questioning whether I really saw single props or not. I had to go back and look to be sure, and that's when I caught the number.
You might want to look into the engine height, idk if weeds will be giving you cavitation, cavitation is more pressure related, maybe a ventilation issue, but you might have a different issue going on depending on what the engine is doing.
Nice video. I always get a vibration when I try to accelerate too hard or have a bunch of people on the boat. I always contributed it to cavitation, but to be honest, not really sure. It feels like the prop is trying to bite, but can’t quite get it. Like peeling out in a car. I have to slow my acceleration or reduce the load on the prop/engine.
This is why there are jack plates and "trim." Point being when you "launch"(through propulsion) the bow will rise and stern will fall making for an enormous amount of stress on the transom. Anything that levels the boat("on plane") is what solves this problem which using a modern outboard motor means an engine that can create its own trim upon launch be being at the greatest depth and narrowest distance from the transom. Another way to tackle this issue is by the use of an "Armstrong bracket" which simply moves the engine(s) further back which whilst creating more stress also creates creates better trim simply by adding length to your hull. Point being there are only two speeds on a boat namely A:trolling speed(the most important) when you want a hull to naturally be on the level and B: "on plane" speed when the forward velocity is sufficient to cause your hull and motor to ride upon the surface of the water where there is less surface tension to have had need breaking apart in order dramatically reduce friction and promote stability and control.
Hey thanks. This particular boat is an I/O, so a jack plate or Armstrong bracket wouldn’t work. (Both of which I had to google by the way) However, this sounds like something a set of trim tabs could help by pushing the haul on plane faster and with less effort?
@@BornAgainBoating lol me either. I had a captain that said a certain sets of props weren't working properly on our 98' sportfish due to "prop lash" I had never heard this term before. Something to do with the prop spin when shifting?
Great video. I have a 14’ jon boat v haul with 25 2 stroke. Gets right on plane on second pin setting but when I really accelerate hard the bow pushes down. If I go to third pin gets on plane and runs perfect but I can hear some air sucking slightly. No prop spin or nothing think that’s ok or run 2nd pin? Appreciate input!
Well, hearing sucking air could mean a lot of things and where is that coming from? Lol But, if you don't lose your tell tale, and you aren't getting the engine hot due to lack of water flow, you should be good to go with the third pin location. But it probably takes longer to get on plan I'd imagine. Also, consider how high or low the engine is mounted, with that, depending on how far away you are, you could try and look down there when running, or try setting up a camera so that you can see the anti-ventilation and see where it is. Because if the engine is too high, that might be the prop ventilating. You could lower the engine a hole and run the 3rd pin which would keep your angle right but get the lower down just a hair to get more clean water, just remember that the engine height is playing a big factor here :)
The only time this happens on my boat is when I'm think I need to have. My problem remain a factor. It's a stainless steel crop the first time ever own and one of those My other 2 votes had the aluminum.
Why does water splash back into the boat from the motor. I have a 26 foot canoe with 15 hp motor and after a certain speed water splashes over the strern into the canoe. Also, I experienced cavitation or ventilation. Because we run these canoes on rivers they are mounted with the cavation plate much higher than the keel. This is very common and because of the canoe shape they ride a bit lower a flatter bottom fiberglass boat. Anyway no one else is giving this problem. But me. Just wondering what the problem is. The prop is well used and has been filed off a bit do to hitting occasional rock. Could this be my problem?
My boat now 2023 Sportsman open 262 experiences ventilation bad when trying to get on plain I have to slowly get on plain. The motors are All the way down what could I do to help this?
The air bubbles you mentioned are actually water vapour bubbles,as a result of the boiling water because of the low pressure. It is not possible for air to reach there. The fast cutting of the prop makes a cavity in the water inducing the mentioned effect therefore the phenomenon is named cavitation.
I also wanted to add that steam bubbles don’t pop, they condense back into water. Steam at atmospheric pressure takes up 1700x the volume that water does so you can imagine the violent nature of forming and collapsing!
I have a 20 foot Montego bay pontoon and a 90 HP Suzuki with a 13x17 prop. I am getting cavitation or ventilation after 1/2 throttle . Have tryed a 4 blade 19 pitch no help , so my question is what is wrong
What could cause a prop to come off while the motor is running. Reason why I'm asking because I just got off the lake with my friend and when we pulled the boat out the water the whole damn prop was gone. Also what can cause the motor not to go into gear? I told him it could be his shift cable.
Hello I have a problem with my Mercury 115 ct. Up to 3500 rpm it works normally, then the boat doesn't accelerate until I reach 5000 rpm. The turns increase as a result of the rumble, but the boat does not move. From 5000 onwards it accelerates and glides, but the consumption is at each speed, about 600 rpm less. The engine roar and the revolutions indicated by the instrument coincide. The speed and consumption coincide (almost) with what I did before. However, between these two data there is a difference of over 600 rpm. It is as if the engine does not deliver the power of 600/1000 rpm. These revs then appear at maximum revs, where I reach 6100 instead of 5400 as before. I checked the flexible coupling and replaced all the fuel filters, I used additives and updated the ECU. There are no errors or alarms. Can anyone help me please? Thanks in advance
The props ony my 16' skiff and 10ft jon boat cavitate, and my 14ft jon boat ventilates due to damage to the lower unit, im fixing that in a few minutes. Im going to run the cavitating props until I get problems that interfere with my boating. I love my omc 6hp
I’m a newer boat captain been a sub for awhile.... thanks again for your time and effort as to your knowledge. I have a marine 115 outbound I’m loosing forward momentum intermittently. The engine rpm is clean smooth running... I’ll pop it neutral put it back into gear and away I go again. Is this the above topic? New captain here don’t want to sink. :) tnx
@@chrish5096 - thanks for the reply, the hub and splines are perfect no worn parts. When the engine is off and you turn the prop there’s lots of tension. Pop it in neutral it spins freely. When the engine is idling you can rest a beer can on top and it won’t shake off. Idk stuck in a swamp here. :)
@@mralien4710 That's pretty weird, I'm not any sort of expert on the topic, I was just throwing out the possibility of a spun prop because I've had that happen to me multiple times before. Weird for sure
Learn tons of Tricks & Skills like this with Step-by-Step courses @ BornAgainBoating.com
Good Video, One of the Better Explanations of Cavitation. 46 yrs ago I noticed the Paint and later the Metal on our Boat's Prop burning away, right at the Front Blade where the Blade Met the Hub. I was a Teen at the Time but I had read about Cavitation Burn, and figured that was was it was. It was one of the Old OMC V4s with an Itty Bitty Gearcase with Props that were smaller than the Props they put on the their 40hp, and 33hp engines. Almost no Gear Reduction in the Gear Case; 23:20. at those rotational speeds I'm certain the Blades had serious Cavitation Trails behind them. in 1969, OMC upgraded their Gearcases, and Prop Designs and were Equal to what Mercury had been using for about a Decade
Thank you for your video!!! I've been boating for 13 years now and have never thought about it until I saw your video. I'll be inspecting my prop often. Again, Thanks!
Wish I had seen this video about 15 years ago. I couldn't figure out why my jet ski started porpoising. Eventually I was figured out some of the mounting screws on the front intake grate had worked loose causing the intake grate to drop down during operation, dragging in the water and creating ventilation. A couple new screws and some locktite made it a cheap fix but it scared me for while as a couple mechanics looked at it and couldn't figure it out. I can attest, your video is very informative and useful and will make someones life easier when they understand what is going on with their craft
Beginning of 2022 summer boat sat in the water for a month before I got to use it. Even with a freshly painted anti-fouling drive and props I had tons of growth. The barnacles and other growths limited the boat to 2800 RPM only. I was also running hot as the barncles made their way into thie water inlet. Took the boat out of the water took the drive off cleaned everything off prep and repainted and fixed all my issues.
I am a older boater and I still keep learning things about boating from this channel ,I think I need a new prop.
Searched your channel a while back to help me figure out issues with my boat...Found a hook in my hull which was causing the bow to ride really low above 3/4 throttle, and I couldn't correct for it because when I would trim up, the prop would ventilate and become worse... thankfully I have an aluminum boat and was able to reshape the metal so the hook is about 90% gone and now I can run wide open, full RPMs with no issues...about to install setback/jackplate to get my engine in some cleaner water to really improve the performance...can you do a video explaining how setback effects boats? Your channel has helped me tremendously. Keep it up.
I like the demonstration of the prop on a rope going up and down. Crude simple but very effective to show how good these things lock into the water
we usually trim the outboard down when turning sharply, usually with water skiers to prevent cavitation
in that case, it is to prevent ventilation of the prop! not cavitation :-)
My first boat back in the 80's suffered from ventilation because the outboard was too short for the transom. It would rev up when I turned unless I did so very slowly. I ended up putting a different outboard on it.
This is incredibly fascinating, and I don’t even own a boat. But outboard motors always fascinated me, it’s a marvelous invention.
Thanks for doing the research and then giving it to us. I had just bought a Suzuki DF200A for my Grady White Escape 209. I did my own installation. I mounted it according to the information that I had gleaned off of the internet and initially it ran very well. The problem was that once I started to turn, it ventilated. I couldnt correct with trim. I would straighten it out and the speed would increase nicely and the fuel economy would go up accordingly. But those turns. I pulled the boat and dropped it down 2 holes on the mounting bracket. The next test showed that I had found the sweet spot. The boat lost about 2 mph in top end but it would keep pushing in clean water throughout the turns.
I've had this issue. Usually we just slow down and drop the trim. Great video
Thanks 👍
I intentionally raised the height of the outboard on my fishing boat. I was set so low that I had a spray of water back into the boat. Now with it properly installed I can get ventilation only when on a very sharp turn, I have to be trying to do this to make it happen. However the installation of the jack-plate and raising the outboard has paid off in more speed, better fuel economy,and no water spraying back into the boat.
Man you're incredible. Every issue you discuss is so educational truely amazing how great job you do explaining issues
Glad you think so!
Props to you for another great video! 😎
Haha nice like what you did there 👏
I appreciate that
Pun intended you would say. LOL!
Thank you for covering this, people using the term cavitation to describe ventilation has been my pet peeve of mine for a long time!
I'm experiencing Ventilation at the moment with my Tinny after raising the motor up at the back, but I was calling it Cavitation until I learned the difference. LOL!
I Was having the ventilation issue P.O had motor bolted as high as it would go, dropped down one hole and gained 300 rpm. Stopped having that slipping feeling.
Great video
Thanks
We have a pontoon boat with 150 hp Mercury. It will periodically ventilate . It seems like we get a lot of "splash" back fhere when it does that and it will do it even when engine is trimmed all the way down. I have to throttle down and thrn it works OK. Happens most often at about half throttle.
1st day on the water with a Tracker Grizzly 1860 cc and a 90 hp merc.
Getting ventilation and cavitation but at different trims and rpms.
Can't plane the boat.
Could it be a large transducer too close to the prop?
A couple months ago I purchased a 2004 Nitro 929 cdx , when the old owner took me out on the lake he tried to explain to back off at a certain point and hit the throttle again. I tried to recreate his throttling to get it up on plane , took me for ever. I could hear and feel the prop spin but not bite for the hole shot. He suggested dropping the mount one more hole, I just couldn't understand a almost 20 year old boat and no one had done this as yet. I noticed 3 holes at the back of the prop and remembered an article I had read. One hole had a rubber grommet with the center open, I had read some thing about a Merc Tempest design and grommets. I called a Marina explained the spin , they told me to stop by for some more grommets it's getting to much air. I placed two that fully closed the other holes. The 225 horse just bucked an took off like a bat outta heck. It has worked so far , a 12 dollar fix... I hope is all.
When the pressure, at any point on or near the prop, drops below the vapor pressure of water at its current temperature, the water boils; creating water vapor, not air. When the water vapor bubble moves to an area of pressure greater than the vapor pressure, it collapses. That collapse acts like a tiny shape charge and creates pressures near 100,000 psi. This is well above the strength of steel and aluminum, meaning both are going to start pitting.
Wow I just had ventilation issues on a boat I just bought. Mostly when to many people are up front and I give it the gas.
Buy and mount an SE Sport 300 hydrofoil. Best upgrade you’ll ever do! All these issues will completely go away. Check out reviews on it. 15 years running and still 100% satisfied!!!
BAB University! thanks for all the content.
I am currently searching for a new aluminum frame trailer for my boat, a Nitro Bay 2200. I think a great video you can do is on how to size the correct trailer for boats.
The trailer my boat has is not fitted for it, it only works. So when I am loading it I have to be really careful so that I don't damage the hull. It takes me about 15 min to get everything right before I can leave the lake. I'm sure I shouldn't be using it but I've had it for 1 year and only have used it 5 times because I usually dont have time lol. IOWs, the urge to go fishing beats me.
Thank you for all the content you provide bud! 👍
Now we need Destin from Smarter Everyday to make a video explaining cavitation with a slow motion camera.
Yo Sean I have a friend with the same name as you he just got drafted to the NFL playing for NY Jets
@@slickvic7987 no sh!t? That's cool.
Or the slowmo guys!
I feel like he has already covered it during his nuclear sub series
I noticed cavitation on my ski boat. I get vibrations and the pitch of the engine changes. I also see the little implosions on the leading edge of my rudder. I noticed the cavitation happening when I start to ride on some light crests. Ski boats are just not made for rough water.
When measuring the location cavitation plate to the bottom of the boat where should the trim of the motor be set? ie All the way down/in or should it be trimmed up some and how much?
1:25 so those 2 outboards spin opposite like inboards? I always thought they're the same. If opposing, how does the odd number spin?
On my last outing offshore I went out fine. But was venting or cavitating on the way in. At first I thought it was sargasso weeds and cleared it a few times but then I was in clean water and it was bad all the way in. Then in the canal everything was okay.
I was really confused, I am going back to the boat today and look at my gear oil, and prop conditions and the points you mention in this video, and run it again to see if I can figure this out.I decided it’s an older prop and the combination of a transducer and the prop aging and minor damage in a certain sea condition was bringing it on. Hopefully I’ll figure it out.
My neighbour had a 23 ft very deep V boat with a 260 hp stern drive, full of fuel and 2 people with not much else, it would not take full throttle, would get to 19 knots and not plane, it got cavitation, not aeration, and vibrate really bad, we changed props but it still had the same problem. I can't remember the brand, but it was like a 1984 24 degree boat that handled really bad in waves and when someone moved from one side to the other.
I have a new 2019 Verado 250. Brand new it was not shaking at idle, now it shakes at idle. What could it be? I do not see the propeller wobbling. However the center nut it seems not to be centered when I spin the propeller by hand. Could it be that? Only has 35 hours.
I thought my 25 hp had spun a prop so l replaced it from a 11npitch to a 13 pitch and it seems to do the same thing as the 11 Pitch. I haven't marked either to check if they're actually spinning or if l have a drive gear issue.
I feel this on our 38ft when it has a lot of barnacles on the hull. On a low speed there is no much affect, but when we are on a high speed the RPM will just go high and the movement of the boat was slow.
My boat will ventilate because of my transducer on hard turns to the left. Completely avoidable but can catch you off guard at times.
I have a 1994 trophy series bayliner 2002
I have to take up a 200 yard area across a river to make a turn at full throttle. Even then it did this .
It takes the boat over 100 yards to plain out . I have never owned a boat that stands up so far in the front and takes so long to plain out . I think there is something wrong with the power of the motor . It's like it's worn out but I was told it has 130 lbs of compression on each cylinder.
I hope to figure these things out soon , just got the boat a week ago .
This video is amazing! Very informative. I was actually just browsing through boat videos and this came up. My brothers boat now that it was mentioned ether has the prop spinning on the splines or ventilation.
Modern stainless steel propellers can be rebuilt, repitched,, more or less cup added or taken away by a competent propellor shop usually far cheaper than purchasing a new stainless steel prop. Unless the pitch selection is grossly ( more than 2-3 degrees) out of parameter. Aluminum propellers are usually cheaper to replace but, it would still not hurt to do a little talking to a repair facility before making the decision to replace a propeller. A good quality stainless propeller for most larger engines ( 90 hp and up) usually are in the $600-900 dollar range or more depending on brand. Just an old man thinking out loud.
I work on my friends wave runner every once in a while. Trying to explain cavitation and why it’s not a good idea to start in shallow water or run it onto the beach with the motor on was a long conversion.
Had an Evinrude 150 plastic snap ring that goes into the lower unit was missing and I was getting cavitation exhaust through in around propeller took a while to figure out a 10 dollar part keep me from moving
any chance you could share a photo. I have a 150HP johnson that has been been giving me cavitation issues for 3 years now and I am losing my mind. thanks
What explains cavitation on a brand new high power boat only while it's getting on plane?
I think you described exactly what may be happening with mine, sometimes when circling the lake I feel loss of power and vibration through out the pontoon and when I ese off the throttle it goes away? I have noticed a few nicks on my prop but the local mechanic told me it is fine.
Propping a boat just right is really a tricky business. You watch videos, use prop calculation formulas and stuff like that but that really just provides a starting point about which prop to try. I adjust boat load balance, change props, vary the engine height, put on a hydrofoil and keep running the boat at my best cruising speed in choppy seas until it feel right and mpg are good. Also check that the engine can attain full rpm at WOT to prevent engine labouring which shortens its life. When the boat runs right I dont know exactly why it runs right, it was the product of a little theory and science and a lot of trail and error. It helps a lot if you have a prop shop that lets you try out props and change them without having to buy a bunch of props to find the right setup. Then when you buy another boat you can do it all again, if you're a prop perfectionist that is.
Awesome stuff.....having a ventilation prob, engine kept having a short rev burst every once in a while.... .scared me to death, now i know, so thank you.
I have a 2018 mercury 100 hp command thrust with today a black max aluminium 17p that slips on the water under hard accelration or trimming out on the outboard. I bought a slightly used mercury vengeance 19p can i use the samme flo torq ii hub kit i use on the black max on this vengeance prop?
I have twin 200 ox66 starboard engine has cavitation at over 35mph in a chop and have to stop boat to regain grip it will not regain grip unless boat is stopped
Question. Does the propeller get warmer because of the small explosions?
Excellent video of explanation without getting too scientific 👌 small Knicks in the prop can also gather enough oxygen molecules to create bubbles before the prop thus creating a higher pressure system, therefore, Cavitation. But this video will educate most and it explains everything for the average boaty 👍
Thanks for the info!
what a coincident i stumble on this vid. was just on the water & prop was loosing grip every 30 sec @ wot. truned out to be the bouncing from very choppy conditions.
Wow. A lot more to it than I thought. Thanks again for the helpful information
✔️No long drawn out Hollywood intro
✔️ No stupid annoying loud music
✔️✔️✔️No “eeehh, What’s up guys?”
✔️Informative
✔️Knowledgeable
Thanks, appreciation and cudos to you!
Great video. Issues with prop ventilation...”weed ring” solved the problem
Question... is the correct name a "anti-ventilation plate" or "cavitation plate"?
Ahhh.. prop talk... the never ending discussion ! 😎
so i think i have cavitation issue, with vibration of boat/motor from around 2000-2500 rpm.then it goes away as i increase rpm/speed.so would i change pitch of motor get rid of this.?
thanks
john
I have a boat with a prop and one without. The one with the prop goes faster.
This guy wins the prize
You don’t say.
I find that to be a based fact!
Lucky you 😂, mine comes with something like a stick/rod with a slab like thing at the end. Been beating the water with it but it never goes any faster. Sorry for the late reply, been off grid since COVID emerged.
I put my boat engine upside down so I have a hovercraft design
I have a 30' cruiser w twin bravo one ss props if i do not hole shot the engines and try to gradually plane i get as described in video propeller venting once this starts i have to back off and most of the time idle back and hole shot to obtain plane.
One note repowered from abt 260 hp to now abt 300 hp per engine but i did not have the boat prior to repower so not able to note if condition existed previous.
Any thoughts out there again
30' cruiser twin 5.7 Bravo 1 vortec tbi .040 over. Turns up 4250 maybe a bit more under optimal conditions.
What alot of guys don't tell you is if you drill holes in your hull it will let your boat flow straighter
Had this problem when I went from a three blade to a four blade prop, when pulling a tube on a sharp turn. It would cavitate.....
new to me 1994 20 foot pontoon, it cavitates to me, but i think its the inner water flow of the pontoons hitting the short transume pontoon just before the motor platte. Motor is max down in the water based on the tilt trim motor,. Just hitting other boat wakes makes it rev up and slow down. It has a new direct evinrude propellar. going to check out shaft length and motor height on the transum.
I am so glad I stumbled upon this interesting video, just a pity you didn't complete it. IE How to fix problems - I have a huge problem with ventilation and, not cavitation as I just learned. It is really bad, I suspect that the motor is mounted too high. Where can I find more info on how high the anti-ventilation plate must be from the bottom of the hull? I mounted rubber/plastic skimmers on the ventilation plate but this seems to make it even worse as it lifts the motor up out of the water, the prop then literally runs just underneath the surface of the water level. The second problem that may be related to this is when I pull away the nose of the boat wants to lift up. I have an Infanta 6,5m rubber duct with a 75Hp Honda marine motor on. The boat was a factory build Infanta by Honda Knysna, South Africa.
How the water get boiled, in a 100mtr depth??
YES !! I had my prop stolen.off my boat and I didn't no the size that was on my outboard now my new prop.is crap and constantly blows air wish I knew were to start size wise
There is a Prop Finder option on the Solas website or you could look at an online parts catalogue that might mention the original prop size.
@@ChippyOZ oh cool thank you
I’m having a lot of issues with a boat and getting the correct propeller. To start off, I have a 19’ bowrider with a 150 4 stroke. I started off with a 19 pitch mercury black max. It was over reviving at top speed 52mph and the boat was also hard to control. It would chine walk at WOT.
Then I got a black max 21 pitch and the prop would feel like it was slipping. I second guessed myself and thought I might have forgot to tighten the nut!
Next I purchased a 19 pitch Michigan wheel Apollo 3 blade. I had no issues with slipping but the chine walking returned at wide open throttle. I got a deal on a high five 21 pitch and figured I’d give it a shot. I tried it out today and the prop feels like it’s slipping again. If I punch it, the engine over revs. I feel like I’m fighting a losing battle here. Im also wondering if my engine is too high but it’s mounted as low as it can be and the ventilation plate is about an inch above the bottom of the hull.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
@CRASH ALEXANDER lol.
Thanks for this video. I hit something last season that didn't cause immediate issues, but the next time we went out my RPM was high and our power/speed was low. I've changed the hub and had a few mechanics look at it. It seems like something is slipping but we cannot find the issue. I plan to look into this as a possible cause. Thanks again.
Hi Tom. Pull the prop and draw a line with a felt marker across the front of the hub and prop and reinstall it and try it out. After running it for a bit, pull the prop again and inspect the lines. If they are out of alignment, you'll know your hub is slipping as the marks should stay lined up.
Sharrow prop will fix that and give better acceleration and top speed as well as fuel mileage would highly recommend getting one
would like to see yall or somebody make a video on setting engine height on a tunnel hull-i got a 20ft paradise boat works tunnel hull-i put a manuel jack plate on and tested on a lake and have run 3years in the gulf-i have - rooster tails on both sides-online videos say im too deep-im saving for a microjacker next year-w a tunnel you have to have low to start but i guess its even lower when on plane?is the answer a electric jackplate or should i install a tilt and trim-my engine used to have
now I don't have to many brain cells but I've always wondered how you don't cut your feet of when climbing down the ladder on the back. do you have to wait for the propellers to stop spinning?
You always make sure the drive are in neutral and ideally the motor's are turned off.
Hello, what an amazing video, thank you.
I have one question. I bought a new Everglades’s 315 with twin Yamaha 4.3 V6 motors. When I am on plane. The AV plate is 2-3 in below the surface. Is this normal?
Right now I run on plane at 4600 rpms trimmed up 4 bars at 35mph. If I bring the motors up will I ventilate or blow out? I probably need to try to see.
I definitely need the engines trimmed down all the way to get moving from a stand still or I feel sluggish.
Thank you
Hello and thank you! I'm not really sure on the AV plates being under while on plane, technically they shouldn't be, but that's a bigger and heavier boat, I'd be wondering what the top speed is, top RPM, and all that to determine if there is an issue.
You definitely need to play around with the trimming to find the best spot to run for cruising speed lol
But yes, when taking off on any boat you need to have the engines fully tucked in or trimmed down because you gotta get the boat up on the water before you start to trim, the trim gives you bow lift:
ua-cam.com/video/Ka-DFJfVW5Q/v-deo.html&t
ua-cam.com/video/l38u85CkmkE/v-deo.html
How do you know what is the right prop for your boat? For example, one day in the future I plan on building a boat from a haul. If I put a modern outboard with an engine platform on the back of a center console, how would I know what size, pitch and blade count is best, or where to start?
Excellent video...I just went over this 3 weeks ago with a group of 25...cavitation only comes off the back side of the prop blades...it will boil the water...ABYC has an excellent course on props....
from what i just witnessed your statement of cavitation only coming off of the back side of the blade is FALSE.
So I'm having ventilation troubles now and I think you just solved it. I have big gap Infront of prop and gases are coming out there. I'll fix that and try it.
I have twin 60hp only 115hrs on the new props as well as the engine. There is striping on the left prop on all three blades. On the pressure side. The edge of the prop is clean. What do you think could be the problem?
What is the white, solid, stream, of bubbles comming from the center hub of the propeller when turning under the water? I guess im asking, what causes that stream???
What causes the stream????
@CRASH ALEXANDER Thankya
Thanks for the great video! How will I know if my engine is mounted too high? What are the clear signs that the propeller is getting air, even a little bit?
Hey Aaron, my problem is when I turn too hard I get ventilation. Not sure why my anti ventilation plate rides right on top of the water when running and planed out. But when turning hard port or starboard it sucks in air. I have tried different angles of trim but no luck. Any thing you can help me with would be greatly appreciated. Another great video with all kinds of useful information. Thanks 👍😎🌴. Be safe out there.
Yes 9.9 Johnson with flat bottom boat ... we started out from dock ...then when I throttled up boat barley moved noticed lots of bubbles trailing in wake was like something was holding us back ... this was on a power plant lake where the water temperature was probably 75° or higher I just thought maybe it was the temperature of the water that was the cause of that reaction it never happened to me before on other lakes???
VERY INTERESTING! I just put a riser bracket on the back of my 11' tinny so the Cavitation Plate on my 5hp outboard is level with the back of the boat. It flies when on plane with the weight distributed in the boat properly BUT Ventilates when you try to turn. Seeing this Video where you say any obstruction may cause Air bubbles has made me realise I didn't take into consideration the Rib that runs down the centre of the boat hull underneath. The plate is level with the flat of the hull but higher than the Rib down the centre. I think when I turn Im getting air off the Rib that makes the motor ventilate.
Very possible :)
Hi guys I’m a new subscriber. I have a 2000 Grady white 226. I just got her home yesterday I had a shop install an aluminum floatable offshore bracket, fiberglass the back up, install new 2021 Yamaha 250 4 stroke motor we also cut out the back compartments and made the back bigger for fishing room. We also installed a below deck fish box custom.
I took the boat out today for my first time with all the new upgrades and it seems like the rear end is sucking down and I need to go over 3500 RPM with the motor trim down just to get going. It has less power than I used to have with my original set up which did not have the offshore bracket and had a 3.3 vs the 4.2l motor that I have now. I watched a couple of your videos and it looks like there could be several different possible problems. Where can I post a couple of pictures for you and your members to see and maybe give me an idea of what could be wrong. I feel like when I am driving the boat the motor is too low in the water, the water level is almost up to the lower cowling I’m getting a lot of splash back as well/rooster tails.
Also another thing I noticed is when I am just going slow the front of the boat feels a lot closer to the water which is weird I would think the back would be lower with all the new weight in there. We did move the two batteries up in the front cabin. Overall I had a lot of work done on the boat.
Thank you I appreciate any suggestions or help.
May I ask how much did you spend planing to do the same
@@guillermoperea2702 73K. It started as 55K ( Just the new motor with all misc parts roughly 27+K) for everything with 2021 Yamaha 250 all-new wiring and all. but then I found out that a lot of items had the letters TBD ( to be discussed) I was not aware of that. We shook hands at the $55K number then I got a bill for $80 + Thousand and blow a gasket. After going back a forth we settled at $73K
The price includes all custom transom and cutting out the compartments in the back, new batteries relocated to front, custom large insulated below deck fish box, etc.
Honestly, if I know it was going to be this much, I would have just bought a brand new boat.
The good news is that I built a custom boat that fits my needs and is now a fish-killing machine. Also, everything That was installed was all good quality material no cheap parts which also added to the final bill.
@@silverbull2932 dam I have a 28 footer WA with an inboard, was planning to remove the inboard and install a 250 with a bracket. Was just planing to spend about 35 thousand, but I might change my mind I can get a brand new 25 foot center console with a brand new 250 for 70000.
Help… I just purchased a used 17-5 shoal cat boat, re powered it with a new 70hp Yamaha. I’m ventilating.
That RED arrow is pointing to Engine Exhaust, not Blade cavitation, did you guys fail outboards 101?
Is that the new 600 Verado at timestamp 2:41? If so, it looks awesome!
Nope, they're 300's. Aside from the single prop (the 600's have counter rotating props), the giveaway is the "300" you see on the cowl. lol...
@@Prototheria apparently I missed the 300 on the cowling 😬
@@benjigans1419 lol... no stress, bud. I missed the number, too. Your comment had me questioning whether I really saw single props or not. I had to go back and look to be sure, and that's when I caught the number.
What would you recommend for cavitation caused by floating weeds gathering around the motor of a Pontoon boat
You might want to look into the engine height, idk if weeds will be giving you cavitation, cavitation is more pressure related, maybe a ventilation issue, but you might have a different issue going on depending on what the engine is doing.
Ok thanks I'll keep researching it
Nice video. I always get a vibration when I try to accelerate too hard or have a bunch of people on the boat. I always contributed it to cavitation, but to be honest, not really sure. It feels like the prop is trying to bite, but can’t quite get it. Like peeling out in a car. I have to slow my acceleration or reduce the load on the prop/engine.
Might be able to lower the prop pitch. You will lose a CPL knots but it will definitely grip better. Cheers
This is why there are jack plates and "trim." Point being when you "launch"(through propulsion) the bow will rise and stern will fall making for an enormous amount of stress on the transom. Anything that levels the boat("on plane") is what solves this problem which using a modern outboard motor means an engine that can create its own trim upon launch be being at the greatest depth and narrowest distance from the transom. Another way to tackle this issue is by the use of an "Armstrong bracket" which simply moves the engine(s) further back which whilst creating more stress also creates creates better trim simply by adding length to your hull.
Point being there are only two speeds on a boat namely
A:trolling speed(the most important) when you want a hull to naturally be on the level and
B: "on plane" speed when the forward velocity is sufficient to cause your hull and motor to ride upon the surface of the water where there is less surface tension to have had need breaking apart in order dramatically reduce friction and promote stability and control.
@@doolittlegeorge Well said sir!
Hey thanks. This particular boat is an I/O, so a jack plate or Armstrong bracket wouldn’t work. (Both of which I had to google by the way) However, this sounds like something a set of trim tabs could help by pushing the haul on plane faster and with less effort?
Hi there on another subject, can you explain prop lashing? on bigger 5 blade nibral props?
I'm not sure I understand what you are asking for about?
@@BornAgainBoating lol me either. I had a captain that said a certain sets of props weren't working properly on our 98' sportfish due to "prop lash" I had never heard this term before. Something to do with the prop spin when shifting?
Great video. I have a 14’ jon boat v haul with 25 2 stroke. Gets right on plane on second pin setting but when I really accelerate hard the bow pushes down. If I go to third pin gets on plane and runs perfect but I can hear some air sucking slightly. No prop spin or nothing think that’s ok or run 2nd pin? Appreciate input!
Well, hearing sucking air could mean a lot of things and where is that coming from? Lol
But, if you don't lose your tell tale, and you aren't getting the engine hot due to lack of water flow, you should be good to go with the third pin location. But it probably takes longer to get on plan I'd imagine.
Also, consider how high or low the engine is mounted, with that, depending on how far away you are, you could try and look down there when running, or try setting up a camera so that you can see the anti-ventilation and see where it is.
Because if the engine is too high, that might be the prop ventilating. You could lower the engine a hole and run the 3rd pin which would keep your angle right but get the lower down just a hair to get more clean water, just remember that the engine height is playing a big factor here :)
@@BornAgainBoatingthank you I’ll try that !
Cavitation “burn” I always knew if you see it on your prop, it’s a telltale that something isn’t right.
Ill a small bend in the prop make your motor shake? i have a 9.9 that shakes
Yes that can make basically be unbalanced
The only time this happens on my boat is when I'm think I need to have. My problem remain a factor. It's a stainless steel crop the first time ever own and one of those My other 2 votes had the aluminum.
Why does water splash back into the boat from the motor. I have a 26 foot canoe with 15 hp motor and after a certain speed water splashes over the strern into the canoe. Also, I experienced cavitation or ventilation. Because we run these canoes on rivers they are mounted with the cavation plate much higher than the keel. This is very common and because of the canoe shape they ride a bit lower a flatter bottom fiberglass boat. Anyway no one else is giving this problem. But me. Just wondering what the problem is. The prop is well used and has been filed off a bit do to hitting occasional rock. Could this be my problem?
My boat now 2023 Sportsman open 262 experiences ventilation bad when trying to get on plain I have to slowly get on plain. The motors are All the way down what could I do to help this?
What do you think about a stainless viper prop?
The air bubbles you mentioned are actually water vapour bubbles,as a result of the boiling water because of the low pressure. It is not possible for air to reach there. The fast cutting of the prop makes a cavity in the water inducing the mentioned effect therefore the phenomenon is named cavitation.
I also wanted to add that steam bubbles don’t pop, they condense back into water. Steam at atmospheric pressure takes up 1700x the volume that water does so you can imagine the violent nature of forming and collapsing!
Allways look forward to tech Tuesday's, have learned so much tysm for your time and vids
Is it possible for the motor to over heat if the prop is out off pitch angle or degree ?
I have a 20 foot Montego bay pontoon and a 90 HP Suzuki with a 13x17 prop. I am getting cavitation or ventilation after 1/2 throttle . Have tryed a 4 blade 19 pitch no help , so my question is what is wrong
What could cause a prop to come off while the motor is running. Reason why I'm asking because I just got off the lake with my friend and when we pulled the boat out the water the whole damn prop was gone. Also what can cause the motor not to go into gear? I told him it could be his shift cable.
My prop has little pits in it. I thought it's just wear 😕
Hello I have a problem with my Mercury 115 ct. Up to 3500 rpm it works normally, then the boat doesn't accelerate until I reach 5000 rpm. The turns increase as a result of the rumble, but the boat does not move. From 5000 onwards it accelerates and glides, but the consumption is at each speed, about 600 rpm less. The engine roar and the revolutions indicated by the instrument coincide. The speed and consumption coincide (almost) with what I did before. However, between these two data there is a difference of over 600 rpm. It is as if the engine does not deliver the power of 600/1000 rpm. These revs then appear at maximum revs, where I reach 6100 instead of 5400 as before. I checked the flexible coupling and replaced all the fuel filters, I used additives and updated the ECU. There are no errors or alarms. Can anyone help me please? Thanks in advance
The props ony my 16' skiff and 10ft jon boat cavitate, and my 14ft jon boat ventilates due to damage to the lower unit, im fixing that in a few minutes. Im going to run the cavitating props until I get problems that interfere with my boating. I love my omc 6hp
I’m a newer boat captain been a sub for awhile.... thanks again for your time and effort as to your knowledge. I have a marine 115 outbound I’m loosing forward momentum intermittently. The engine rpm is clean smooth running... I’ll pop it neutral put it back into gear and away I go again. Is this the above topic? New captain here don’t want to sink. :) tnx
Spun prop hub?
@@chrish5096 - thanks for the reply, the hub and splines are perfect no worn parts. When the engine is off and you turn the prop there’s lots of tension. Pop it in neutral it spins freely. When the engine is idling you can rest a beer can on top and it won’t shake off. Idk stuck in a swamp here. :)
@@mralien4710 That's pretty weird, I'm not any sort of expert on the topic, I was just throwing out the possibility of a spun prop because I've had that happen to me multiple times before. Weird for sure
@@chrish5096 like I said thanks for the reply all we can do is share information and try and help. Most appreciated:) have a great day. :)