Absolutely right about the rubberized undercoating causing more problems. What I have noticed is that applying FluidFilm on top of said coating causes it to soften up quite a bit and make it more like tar. I used a step bit to cut an access hole under the black scuff plate in the door jams to give me access with the 360° wand
Wheel hop when you are turning left or right, comes from the u joints on the front axle, behind the wheels, which are probably binding up. That is the nature of u joints. The u joints binding up gets more pronounced as the u joint begins to fail. Get them checked. Try not to do extreme turns and that will prolong their life. If the u joints have grease nipples, pump some grease in them at every oil change. Good video. Thanks.
I have a 2001 XJ in need of major rust removal/repair. I live in Maryland about 1.5 hours from Morgantown. Can you tell me the name of the shop you used?
Have you looked into the kickdown/TV cable adjustment yet? That should resolve your down shifting issue. If it doesn't then go with 4.10 gearing. It's as close to factory power and fuel economy as you'll get for those tires.
Several other people have commented about the kickdown cable and I haven’t looked at it yet but plan to. Would the difference of upgraded gears be worth the cost?
@@KCars depends, are you planning to off road or just use it for around the town? The gears you are at now will save you gas around town but you won't have a lot of power to do much. 4.10s will bring you back up to stock power and gas milage. Anything more than that would be overkill for a mall crawler. I'd start with the kickdown cable first and determine if you are ok with that. You may see a night and day difference. I know I did.
Jeeps coming together nicely. I would say they coulda ground and seam sealed their welds on the underside. Also they coulda blended their masking tape lines a little better for you or just painted the whole passenger side rocker. It wouldn’t of taken much more time and shouldn’t of cost much more if any. I do all my own work but would never call myself a professional but it’s the little things that make a professional shop a reputable shop.
Side note hit that rear unibody rail rust with some POR 15 (or similar product) paint. It can be brushed on and it reacts with rust and neutralizes it. You would have to wire brush off any of the major scaling rust but it would make it look a lot better I would do the whole unibody rail just bc it is black in color and would look more uniform.
Thanks! And I agree they could’ve done a better job which is why I ended up taking it back and having them fix some of the spots I wasn’t satisfied with. And true the underside could definitely use some more work
Great work I take mine on the beach religiously I need a fool proof plan to at least reduce it It’s inevitable w the salt water Just trying to slow it down Any suggestions? Or go about your method
Thanks! I’ve heard fluid film is the best way to go. That way you can still see where the rust is and you can clean it up and reapply as necessary. With other rubberized or paint undercoatings, they cover up the surface and any rust that could be forming so you don’t see it until it’s really bad
Thanks! It’s definitely a lot of work if you do it right. The steering ended up somehow fixing itself. I had a shop look at it just to make sure and all he found was loose sway bar end links
Nice XJ, how is the rust repair holding up? Those iner quarter panel repairs in the rear don't look the best but better than it was that's for sure. Also you think they would have cleaned up some of that rust a little bit more for the money you paid.
Thanks! It’s holding up alright. I think the rear lower quarter panels don’t matter too much since they are not visible from the outside and mostly just a structural point for the bumper end caps. So as long as it’s not rusty I’m good with it. And I agree I definitely was expecting a better result for the amount of money, thinking about taking it to a restoration shop and have the rust cleaned off and undercoated with truck bed liner to give it that black look. I got quoted $4000 for that though so I’m not sure
@@KCars you could do a good job yourself cleaning that up and coating it I wouldn't spend any more money at a restoration shop. I would look into Monstaliner, really good stuff for a DIY er!
If you do most of your driving 'on road' I'd stick with the factory gears. Jeep looks great with the new metal work. I have a twin to your Cherokee. A 2001 Patriot Blue Cherokee Sport. No lift, though I may do 1" spacers. I'm never going to do any serious offroading but I may hit some country dirt and gravel roads from time to time so the extra clearance would be useful.
Ya I’ve heard that regearing for a 3 inch lift and 31s won’t make much of a difference. I think 1 inch spacers would look good and won’t be too much for what you want to do. Thanks for watching!
Which screws are you referring to? They did put in a few new bolts that I noticed, the ones that hold on the bumper end caps and I think the fenders as well. They didn’t do anything to the wheel wells, what should they have finished? Total for everything was around $2400
@@KCars hey how are you I was referring to the Rusted screws in the sill plate you should replace them all with stainless screws this way they won't rust overall I guess it's a good job just they could have finished off the welds better and coated them with filler and then painted and also like you noted the rust on me Underside those cars are rust buckets I have one now where the gas tank fill out of it while I was driving debating whether to even fix it or not it's an 01 Grand Cherokee I do it myself though haha
I found a Jeep for 500 bucks 300k miles and it looked pretty bad but the worst thing was the fact the catalytic converter for it was stolen so that would been an expensive fix
Your XJ looks great! You got a VERY GOOD deal on those repairs. I'm the original owner of a '98 XJ manual 5-speed with 260.000 miles on it. 🙂
Thanks! Hold onto that XJ as long as you can!
Beautiful jeep, I love it. Thank you for sharing, gets me motivated to get mine fixed too.
Thanks for watching!
That’s awesome it turned out good. When I first seen it I thought it was destined to the scrap yard. My 2000 xj is safely tucked away for the winter.
Yep I’m glad I decided to get it all fixed
Absolutely right about the rubberized undercoating causing more problems. What I have noticed is that applying FluidFilm on top of said coating causes it to soften up quite a bit and make it more like tar. I used a step bit to cut an access hole under the black scuff plate in the door jams to give me access with the 360° wand
Ya I’ve heard not great things about rubberized undercoating. I think I’m gonna go with a black paint undercoating next instead of fluid film
@@KCars try the black fluid film. ✅
@@erichimes3062 not a bad option🤷🏼♂️
Replacing half my "frame" all floor panels half firewall. Kick panels. Rear quarters. Inners. And inner and outer rockers right now. 94 4.0 5 speed
Wheel hop when you are turning left or right, comes from the u joints on the front axle, behind the wheels, which are probably binding up. That is the nature of u joints. The u joints binding up gets more pronounced as the u joint begins to fail. Get them checked. Try not to do extreme turns and that will prolong their life. If the u joints have grease nipples, pump some grease in them at every oil change. Good video. Thanks.
I have a 2001 XJ in need of major rust removal/repair. I live in Maryland about 1.5 hours from Morgantown. Can you tell me the name of the shop you used?
Have you looked into the kickdown/TV cable adjustment yet? That should resolve your down shifting issue. If it doesn't then go with 4.10 gearing. It's as close to factory power and fuel economy as you'll get for those tires.
Several other people have commented about the kickdown cable and I haven’t looked at it yet but plan to. Would the difference of upgraded gears be worth the cost?
@@KCars depends, are you planning to off road or just use it for around the town? The gears you are at now will save you gas around town but you won't have a lot of power to do much. 4.10s will bring you back up to stock power and gas milage. Anything more than that would be overkill for a mall crawler. I'd start with the kickdown cable first and determine if you are ok with that. You may see a night and day difference. I know I did.
It’s mainly my daily driver with light off roading. I’ll have to take a look at that kickdown cable. Thanks!
Does it matter if there’s a 3.5
Inch lift? Standard tires?
Great work .. did similar work to my XJ for $1400 but the results not clean like yours 👍
Ya this stuff can get pretty expensive. Thanks for watching!
Can you tell us where you got these repairs? They did great work. My jeep is way worse and I wanna save it
Johnson built customs in WV
Jeeps coming together nicely. I would say they coulda ground and seam sealed their welds on the underside. Also they coulda blended their masking tape lines a little better for you or just painted the whole passenger side rocker. It wouldn’t of taken much more time and shouldn’t of cost much more if any. I do all my own work but would never call myself a professional but it’s the little things that make a professional shop a reputable shop.
Side note hit that rear unibody rail rust with some POR 15 (or similar product) paint. It can be brushed on and it reacts with rust and neutralizes it. You would have to wire brush off any of the major scaling rust but it would make it look a lot better I would do the whole unibody rail just bc it is black in color and would look more uniform.
Thanks! And I agree they could’ve done a better job which is why I ended up taking it back and having them fix some of the spots I wasn’t satisfied with. And true the underside could definitely use some more work
Nice video I own the same jeep in red for 12 years 4.5 lift on 33s check the front wheels u joints for your problem.
Good to hear. Thanks for the advice!
Great work
I take mine on the beach religiously
I need a fool proof plan to at least reduce it
It’s inevitable w the salt water
Just trying to slow it down
Any suggestions?
Or go about your method
Thanks! I’ve heard fluid film is the best way to go. That way you can still see where the rust is and you can clean it up and reapply as necessary. With other rubberized or paint undercoatings, they cover up the surface and any rust that could be forming so you don’t see it until it’s really bad
So, this is really just a before and after.... fun.
Thanks
Great work looking good 👍🏾
Thanks!
Man that looks great
Thanks!
Nice vid - I’m looking to see if I can successfully do the underside of my underside DIY. What ended up happening with tour steering? Thanks.
Thanks! It’s definitely a lot of work if you do it right. The steering ended up somehow fixing itself. I had a shop look at it just to make sure and all he found was loose sway bar end links
Happen to remember which screws you used to replace the ones on the plastic pieces in the door jams? Looking to replace mine as well.
Don’t remember exactly. I just took the stock ones to Lowes and bought the ones that looked like they were the same size
@@KCars Sounds good! I will give that a shot. Love your Jeep, looks fantastic!
Thanks!
How much did that cost I have same problems please let me know thanks
2400
Nice XJ, how is the rust repair holding up? Those iner quarter panel repairs in the rear don't look the best but better than it was that's for sure. Also you think they would have cleaned up some of that rust a little bit more for the money you paid.
Thanks! It’s holding up alright. I think the rear lower quarter panels don’t matter too much since they are not visible from the outside and mostly just a structural point for the bumper end caps. So as long as it’s not rusty I’m good with it. And I agree I definitely was expecting a better result for the amount of money, thinking about taking it to a restoration shop and have the rust cleaned off and undercoated with truck bed liner to give it that black look. I got quoted $4000 for that though so I’m not sure
@@KCars you could do a good job yourself cleaning that up and coating it I wouldn't spend any more money at a restoration shop. I would look into Monstaliner, really good stuff for a DIY er!
I’ll have to look into that, thanks!
If you do most of your driving 'on road' I'd stick with the factory gears.
Jeep looks great with the new metal work. I have a twin to your Cherokee. A 2001 Patriot Blue Cherokee Sport. No lift, though I may do 1" spacers. I'm never going to do any serious offroading but I may hit some country dirt and gravel roads from time to time so the extra clearance would be useful.
Ya I’ve heard that regearing for a 3 inch lift and 31s won’t make much of a difference. I think 1 inch spacers would look good and won’t be too much for what you want to do. Thanks for watching!
awesome video, any tips for speakers not working?
Thanks! I’m not too familiar with audio but I guess check the connections, wires, etc.
Try checking for broken wires in the boot. That was my problem. If it is I would just use some butt connectors.
You think they would have put new screws and also finished the Wells and Blended them with filler what did they charge you for that job
Which screws are you referring to? They did put in a few new bolts that I noticed, the ones that hold on the bumper end caps and I think the fenders as well. They didn’t do anything to the wheel wells, what should they have finished? Total for everything was around $2400
@@KCars hey how are you I was referring to the Rusted screws in the sill plate you should replace them all with stainless screws this way they won't rust overall I guess it's a good job just they could have finished off the welds better and coated them with filler and then painted and also like you noted the rust on me Underside those cars are rust buckets I have one now where the gas tank fill out of it while I was driving debating whether to even fix it or not it's an 01 Grand Cherokee I do it myself though haha
Can you tell me where you got the paint match for the door jams (when you did it yourself). What’s the color?
I got it from advance auto parts and the paint is called patriot blue
could be the frt axle u joints binding . cheers
Thanks!
I found a Jeep for 500 bucks 300k miles and it looked pretty bad but the worst thing was the fact the catalytic converter for it was stolen so that would been an expensive fix
Depending on what other work it needs I’d say that could be a good deal if you’re looking for a project
@@KCars Ok
One year on, how is the rust?
Coming back in a few spots, I want to get it taken care of and undercoated again soon
2400 😮. They probably woulda charged me 15 grand 😂
Hey where did you get the mud flaps from?
They’re stock
What part of West Virginia are you from fairmont area for me
I was in Morgantown. Recently moved to the northern Virginia area though
Not bad. You should have undercoated yourself, they made a lot of money on you with that.
True
up grade to 4.10
Thought about regearing but I don’t think it would make too much of a difference since I’m only on 31s
@@KCars You right I thought you had 33s
They robbed you
Had another place quote me $4000 minimum for rust removal and undercoating. Seems like a lot of places are robbing us these days lol