Feel the same about the reliability, 15 years ago these were probably the most reliable vehicle on the road, now they're just like any other 20+ year old vehicle and they will likely have a lot of problems.
Great video! The Dana 35 is probably the most common rear end on the XJ, so I wouldn't say, "don't buy one." I am the original owner of a 1996 XJ, which has been through tons of upgrades over the years. At this point, pretty much everything I can do has been done, including a Dana 44 swap. I would advise, if you buy an XJ with a Dana 35, just know that if you really want to build out your Jeep, you're going to have to swap out the rear end.
Make sure it is completely dry, then using a pump-up sprayer, spray inside the door bottoms, rocker panels, and anywhere you can with chainsaw bar oil. It's a heavy sticky oil that will seal out moisture for a good long while. Respray as needed and keep the rust from forming.
You forgot about the tow package XJs with the Dana 44 rear axle! And my heater core gave out shortly after buying my last XJ, but since im in florida and never use heat i just capped it off
I have 2 99 XJs one rust free 2wd Limited and a rusty sport 4wd. Both are stock and run/drive near perfect. I love the 2wd for street use as its mpg is 17-20 and its quick down low. I fix most everything myself so its worth keeping them running. I paid $2k for the rust free 2wd in Oct 23 and put another $1200 into tires, fuel pump, shocks, fluid change, TPS, header panel/grill, windshield etc. Love the XJ s a reliable beater. Having a spare makes it even better.
Yes that's what I hate about some of the newer Vehicles they cover sheet metal with plastic and then that kind of stuff happens my 1987 Jeep Cherokee that rear part of the fender is exposed so I can properly clean it and because of that it's not rotted like yours has become because of the plastic bumper that was over it
If you are going through u-joints you need shims on the axle to bring the yolk up. 4" lift on an 89 oe t-case, never shredded u-joints. 13lb at an idle is not good, I'll drop to 20 when it's hot hot. My XJ has always gotten me home.
I recently got a 01 2 Door XJ Sport. Never knew much about them and bought it for a second chance in life after my crash. "Beggers can't be choosers" turned into "That's my baby" real quick. One hell of a vehicle.
Hey I know you live in Massachusetts, I’m from Connecticut. It may have just been a wild coincidence but we’re you ever at the Elephants Trunk Flea Market in New Milford, CT? I know it’s a weird question but I work there and I think I saw you there once or someone who looks exactly like you.
Why would you go thru U-Joints? If you drop the cross member 1/2 '' on a 3'' lift the geometry is fine (stock). Mine has been like that 6 years now with a ton of 4 wheeling and highway driving.
got my 94 in 07 had 130,000 miles 5/19/24 has 224,000 miles only thing os i needed water pump so decided to get new belts hoses and radiator just to do it all at once, had to get new alternator, worse thing is the stupid not spring loaded belt tensioner only last maybe a year and only rust is from rocks chipping paint
Rust, rust and rust. That is the only problem ypu can't solve if it is too late. The rest is doable and will depend on how much you wanna pour into the jeep and how much you are gonna do yourself for the jeep. Many people do axle swaps and install new gears and lockers there. Many people do an LS swap. A loy of people lift the jeep, everyone puts big tires there, we all know you are a light bar/pod addict too, and ypu want your custom bumpers and the roof rack and all sorts of things. And the problems, like the heater core, are fixable. And I don't trust nobody that tells me "I had it done 2 weeks ago". Cuz that job was probably made 2 years ago and I do have to take it into account, so I better know for real than finding out I was lied to. Remember, the only thing you can't replace in a jeep xj is the jeep body itself. The rest is there for you to consider
One thing you’re wrong about is aftermarket parts adding value. Couldn’t be further from the truth in my opinion. You want to buy as close to stock as possible and those are the ones that sell for the most
I have owned 3 XJ's. My first one was a 96, it was really dirty and left but it previous owner. I bought it at an action for $500. My wife and I cleaned it all up, bought some new A/T and gave it a full service, she went well for 2 years sold it and made a profit. My second one was a 2000 XJ in awesome condition 👍. 2 inch lift ,new Set of mud terrains, new OME shocks, plus many little inclusions for offroading. It was a awesome vehicle it ran beautifully..for 2 years. Last one I recently had was another 96 in good condition... Similar set ups to the others... Wish I still had it. I believe as they get older you just need to maintain and look after them like any other older vehicle. All of mine were completely rust free. I live in Australia. Soon to buy another and keep it forever 👍🚙🇦🇺
My main problem has been finding someone in the Chicago area to do body work on these things. It seems like its impossible to find someone. Anyone have any suggestions?
These axles that came from factory are both trash, the dana 35 is even worse than the crystler but both are horrible for big tires and hard pushing. So if you using it like the most people do you will probably swapping your crystlers too
Just buy a rust free one then cover it in decent Wax, Wurth wax a German product.👍🏻 Job done . Buy a old vehicle is hopeful unless it’s low miles and been loved 😇. I got a beauty.
I feel like someone that’s bought there jeeps pretty much built and done nothing but regular maintenance doesn’t have the most knowledge to tell people about what to look for. You made good points about checking for rust under the bumper caps and floorboards! But then proceeded to talk about you paying $1000 for a sye… brother it’s $200¿? And you can use a used front shaft instead of a “new” rear shaft. This is probably why your “$7,000” in your jeep lol. I get your trying to make content but it’s hard to take advice from someone that has a problem and takes it to a shop. And tires cause death wobble? I’m sure you’ve never experienced death wobble after that statement, maybe a serious vibration or poor ride quality but your not getting a true “death” wobble with tires. Nice jeeps though!
The secret to Cherokee ownership is to live in the South, where there's no rust. That, and to have owned yours since new (in 97) so you know all it's quirks.
Go check out this video next!: ua-cam.com/video/akYOf55OwdM/v-deo.html
Most "let downs" are easily fixed. Also, a lot of times, the XJ has been telling you for a while that a "letdown" was coming.
Feel the same about the reliability, 15 years ago these were probably the most reliable vehicle on the road, now they're just like any other 20+ year old vehicle and they will likely have a lot of problems.
Thanks for the info. I'm considering buying an XJ.
Great video! The Dana 35 is probably the most common rear end on the XJ, so I wouldn't say, "don't buy one." I am the original owner of a 1996 XJ, which has been through tons of upgrades over the years. At this point, pretty much everything I can do has been done, including a Dana 44 swap. I would advise, if you buy an XJ with a Dana 35, just know that if you really want to build out your Jeep, you're going to have to swap out the rear end.
Well said
I've seen stock dana 35s bounce up rocks along with built dana44s and never snap an axle. You dont need to swap it. Super 35 kits are fine.
Make sure it is completely dry, then using a pump-up sprayer, spray inside the door bottoms, rocker panels, and anywhere you can with chainsaw bar oil. It's a heavy sticky oil that will seal out moisture for a good long while. Respray as needed and keep the rust from forming.
the one i just bought needs the whole underside and all the components sandblasted
If the floor mat is wet it's not necessarily the heater core. The XJ are notorious for the AC condensation leaking into that area.
Great Video! I drive the same Jeep Cherokee xj 2000! A great Car . Greatings from Switzerland! The trail never ends!
🤝
You forgot about the tow package XJs with the Dana 44 rear axle! And my heater core gave out shortly after buying my last XJ, but since im in florida and never use heat i just capped it off
I have 2 99 XJs one rust free 2wd Limited and a rusty sport 4wd. Both are stock and run/drive near perfect. I love the 2wd for street use as its mpg is 17-20 and its quick down low. I fix most everything myself so its worth keeping them running. I paid $2k for the rust free 2wd in Oct 23 and put another $1200 into tires, fuel pump, shocks, fluid change, TPS, header panel/grill, windshield etc. Love the XJ s a reliable beater. Having a spare makes it even better.
Yes that's what I hate about some of the newer Vehicles they cover sheet metal with plastic and then that kind of stuff happens my 1987 Jeep Cherokee that rear part of the fender is exposed so I can properly clean it and because of that it's not rotted like yours has become because of the plastic bumper that was over it
If you are going through u-joints you need shims on the axle to bring the yolk up. 4" lift on an 89 oe t-case, never shredded u-joints. 13lb at an idle is not good, I'll drop to 20 when it's hot hot. My XJ has always gotten me home.
thanks steve
1999 xj with 240,000 couldn't be happier all original
I recently got a 01 2 Door XJ Sport. Never knew much about them and bought it for a second chance in life after my crash. "Beggers can't be choosers" turned into "That's my baby" real quick. One hell of a vehicle.
the bueno y sano sticker is a must, had it on my civic
Hey I know you live in Massachusetts, I’m from Connecticut. It may have just been a wild coincidence but we’re you ever at the Elephants Trunk Flea Market in New Milford, CT? I know it’s a weird question but I work there and I think I saw you there once or someone who looks exactly like you.
Why would you go thru U-Joints? If you drop the cross member 1/2 '' on a 3'' lift the geometry is fine (stock). Mine has been like that 6 years now with a ton of 4 wheeling and highway driving.
got my 94 in 07 had 130,000 miles 5/19/24 has 224,000 miles only thing os i needed water pump so decided to get new belts hoses and radiator just to do it all at once, had to get new alternator, worse thing is the stupid not spring loaded belt tensioner only last maybe a year and only rust is from rocks chipping paint
Rust, rust and rust. That is the only problem ypu can't solve if it is too late. The rest is doable and will depend on how much you wanna pour into the jeep and how much you are gonna do yourself for the jeep.
Many people do axle swaps and install new gears and lockers there. Many people do an LS swap. A loy of people lift the jeep, everyone puts big tires there, we all know you are a light bar/pod addict too, and ypu want your custom bumpers and the roof rack and all sorts of things. And the problems, like the heater core, are fixable. And I don't trust nobody that tells me "I had it done 2 weeks ago". Cuz that job was probably made 2 years ago and I do have to take it into account, so I better know for real than finding out I was lied to. Remember, the only thing you can't replace in a jeep xj is the jeep body itself. The rest is there for you to consider
What size tires you got
I like your fender flares. What are they? Where did you get them?
These are bushwacker flat flares
@Steven Newell Thanks!
I have some knockoff pocket type fender flares on mine. They look okay, but they're not the greatest.
I also have a 2000 XJ basically every XJ is now a very old vehicle. Almost all of them will need work.
Oh cwap…I already bought one before watching this video! My life sucks, I’m always late
It’s never too late. You live and you learn 🤙
My right AirPod loved this
I was looking for this comment 💀
My XJ is 35 years old. Spins like a top.
If you don't wrench on them, LEARN!!!
"dont buy an XJ...." .... leave them for me.... efan doesnt kick on til 118 -120
One thing you’re wrong about is aftermarket parts adding value. Couldn’t be further from the truth in my opinion. You want to buy as close to stock as possible and those are the ones that sell for the most
Where are you getting all your subs from??
Just by posting the best content I can. I truly appreciate everyone for the support 🙏 It’s only the beginning. Road to 10k!
@@stevennewellproductions great job. My stuff is on the boring side. I’m hoping shortly I’ll have my Jeep finished.
How far are from 4000 hrs?
I have owned 3 XJ's.
My first one was a 96, it was really dirty and left but it previous owner. I bought it at an action for $500. My wife and I cleaned it all up, bought some new A/T and gave it a full service, she went well for 2 years sold it and made a profit. My second one was a 2000 XJ in awesome condition 👍. 2 inch lift ,new Set of mud terrains, new OME shocks, plus many little inclusions for offroading. It was a awesome vehicle it ran beautifully..for 2 years. Last one I recently had was another 96 in good condition... Similar set ups to the others... Wish I still had it. I believe as they get older you just need to maintain and look after them like any other older vehicle. All of mine were completely rust free. I live in Australia. Soon to buy another and keep it forever 👍🚙🇦🇺
My main problem has been finding someone in the Chicago area to do body work on these things. It seems like its impossible to find someone. Anyone have any suggestions?
Same here in western Massachusetts. There are a lot of shops willing to do it but it’s an insane amount of money
I specifically bought mine because it's easy to work on yourself, so my recommendation is always check UA-cam first.
Where’d you get the fender flares?
Dirtbound body armor
Damn this making rethink of buying one
I’m going to see one tomorrow 😢 but idk now
I hope you bought one...
Did ya get one ?
What’s the bumper on the red one?
It’s custom made
These axles that came from factory are both trash, the dana 35 is even worse than the crystler but both are horrible for big tires and hard pushing. So if you using it like the most people do you will probably swapping your crystlers too
I’ve had my c8.25 for years on 33’s no issues
Undercoating holds moisture, worst thing you can do.
Fluid film
just me watching this after buying an xj?
Jeep channels
Never watched this video and still won’t don’t tell me my mistake was bad because I already know it was a mistake and I’m lovin t
Just buy a rust free one then cover it in decent Wax, Wurth wax a German product.👍🏻 Job done . Buy a old vehicle is hopeful unless it’s low miles and been loved 😇. I got a beauty.
A pease of no buy
I feel like someone that’s bought there jeeps pretty much built and done nothing but regular maintenance doesn’t have the most knowledge to tell people about what to look for. You made good points about checking for rust under the bumper caps and floorboards! But then proceeded to talk about you paying $1000 for a sye… brother it’s $200¿? And you can use a used front shaft instead of a “new” rear shaft. This is probably why your “$7,000” in your jeep lol. I get your trying to make content but it’s hard to take advice from someone that has a problem and takes it to a shop. And tires cause death wobble? I’m sure you’ve never experienced death wobble after that statement, maybe a serious vibration or poor ride quality but your not getting a true “death” wobble with tires. Nice jeeps though!
2000 is a bad year, shitty cylinder head and coil setup
The secret to Cherokee ownership is to live in the South, where there's no rust.
That, and to have owned yours since new (in 97) so you know all it's quirks.