MY BOYFRIEND AND I LOVE ❤️ YOUR CHANNEL. WE LOVE YOUR WORK! AND WE LOVE YOUR PEACEFUL AND BEAUTIFUL 😍 ENERGY!! THANK YOU SO MUCH. PLEASE MAKE MORE VIDEOS. 🙏
You're the best, Sage! I love everything about your videos including the pace and your wonderful narratives! Always a pleasure to watch and so inspiring! Many thanks!
So glad to see you posting a new video. Your work fascinates me. I hope you decide to continue posting more often. Your attention to detail makes you amazing to watch! Have a great weekend! -Diane from Tampa
Great video, I've been watching you're videos since the very beginning. Thanks for the effort in filming and explaining, I really appreciate it. Thank you very much.
YAYYYY! FANTASTIC TO SEE YOU BACK! Your videos have encouraged me to do all sorts of crafts you make your tutorials so interesting, easy to follow & inspirational..... Thank you soooo much for all you have shared and for coming back to youtube YAYYYY! x
Great to see another video from you Sage. Im really chuffed actually, because I did a video tutorial a few year ago showing how I made an inset window on a wedding photo album I was making for my brother....and I did it almost exactly like you did. Obviously Im not a professional bookbinder like yourself, Im just a self taught amateur....but Im chuffed to know that I did it the same way as you, heehee. Lee :)
Good day. Thank you for your detailed videos. Great to see you continuing with more videos. I have a question about covers. We use a thick board, but when they dry, they tend to bend. We thought it was moisture but now it appears to be caused by the glue and material contracting when it dries. Any advice on how to avoid or overcome this?
Use a balancing cover - glue a sheet of paper to the inside before gluing on the cover. It just needs to extend to the board edges, not folded around. Then glue on the cover cloth/paper as shown. Both sides will dry and shrink under equal tension and the boards will stay flat. The same technique is used in woodworking, with balancing veneers or laminates glued to the opposite side of the veneered face.
Sage - I just found your videos and they are very helpful and honestly, fun to watch. You may have covered this in a video that I haven't gotten to yet, but could you tell us about your guillotine cutter? the manufacturer and set up. It looks a vintage, well loved. If I wanted a similar set up in my studio, what should I look for today? Many thanks.
My "guillotine cutter" is a Board Shear, try calling Ernest Schaeffer in Union New Jersey if you want one. Mine was rescued from a business in Manhattan when all the milliners and bag makers were leaving the Lower West side (Chelsea?). It has been my sidekick for neatly 45 years now, it was made sometime between 1890 and 1920(?) and has been with me at three different addresses. I use it not only for binding but also in the construction of my Paper Tapestries ( check out the photo albums on my facebook page). I don't think I have covered it as a main subject in any video but I have written in comments about it and its use does feature in many of the box making videos. I used to give a full set of demonstrations on how to use it in my "making one is easy" class about ramping up production for hand binders at the Center for Book Arts but I don't know how useful a video would be for hand binders who don't have one or access to one. Thanks for watching!
Hi Sage, Been lurking your channel for a while and love the education and instruction. Can't re-create what you do but am now dabbling in a little repair of some family books. Wouldn't have been brave enough to attempt it without you so thanks! One thing, I totally covet the large rubber hand rollers you use to smooth material. Are those older Brayers or something else? Any source for them you can share? Thanks Again, -Paco
They are my old brayers, I was and still make some prints. Having recently priced them, I am astounded at how much they cost now. I paid $30 to $60 for them 50 years ago, expensive for a student but not like they are now for good rubber rollers. You might be able to find some on line.Try Ebay and then look for new ones. If you are only doing a little binding, they might not be cost effective for you. A teflon folder, while expensive for a folder, might suit you better. Good luck and Thanks for watching!
Hi. I've just discovered your wonderful tutorials which are just what I've been looking for. Do you by any chance, have one for binding with a curved spine, with cords, creating the lovely ridges on the spine? I have searched your channel but unable to find one so far? Many thanks.
What you are looking for is what we call 'in-board work' , that means that the boards are attached to a rounded and backed book that has been sewn on raised cords ( there is no joint where the board meets the spine). I made a number of that type of binding in my early days but none of my clients wanted that type of work, which by the way is professionally done by a number of people ( someone for sewing, a binder which can include the leather prep and covering, a gilder for the edges and a finisher who would be responsible for the gold tooling and polishing). Sometimes the cords are fully recessed into the spine so that the final product has a perfect, smooth, rounded spine.This type of binding is usually a tight back, which means the leather is attached directly to the spine of the book which is usually full bound. It requires a lot of tools and a high level of skill on part of all of the craftsmen involved. There are other types of bindings that mimic in board work. Usually the spine is made as a hollow (detached) with a hard curved spine and false raised bands. There is usually a joint where the boards meet the spine. Those books are often quarter or half bound as they are less expensive and modestly decorated. I have not made any videos about books with raised bands. As I have now retired from binding, I have passed a lot of my tools on to younger binders and no longer have what I would need to demonstrate even the starting point of in board work. There are videos for sewing raised bands but I don't know if there are any on the following steps. Thank you for watching and I hope you will enjoy watching others.
Great to see another presentation from you, can I just ask about your gluing method, what glue to you use and why do you use a roller, and control the glue with this?
Please watch my Glue and Roller Basics, all questions answered in the video plus a show of the set up. It's about efficiency, economy and cleanliness. Thanks for watching!
Great video and the folio looks amazing. My Saturday is so much better thanks to you. I'm just wondering about the size of the gauge if the covering material is thicker than book cloth, like a faux leather with fabric lining. Should I add to the tickness of the boards one or double thickness of this thicker material?
I usually wrap the gauge with a piece of the cover material. There are two sides to every groove so you need that space for the boards to close to a right angle, you may need a little more to have it close board to board. It's easy to make a joint to test if you have questions about the fit and fold. Thanks for watching!
There are a number of things you can do to prepare the fabric. You can mix some methyl Cellulose like I do in the paper backing silk video, that is to mix it so that it forms a thick spreadable paste. Then lay the fabric out and spread the MC on it with a spreader or a piece of binders board. Let it dry and you should be ready to go, you may want to iron the fabric because the MC will shrink a little as it dries and the fabric may become textured depending on the tightness of the weave. The other thing is to paper back it like I do in the paper backing silk video in which case you will not need to iron afterwards. I use this method of starch filling the fabric with raw silks and some moderately open fabrics. It is best to avoid fabrics that are thin or have open weaves. ALSO when you use these treated fabrics it is often best to glue the boards instead of the fabric during construction. Good luck, stay safe and get the vaccination as soon as you can.
You can use any kind of binder's board , I use Davy Red label; Google your local library supply or go to Talas online. I have no idea where you are or what may be available in your area. Do not use mat board, corrugated cardboard or foam core ( too fragile) most solid board will work for many jobs. Thanks for watching.
I used Davy Board in various thicknesses, You can get it from Talas online; google binding supplies and you might find a supplier near to you. If you watch my other videos and look at the comments, many of your questions will be answered. You should also watch the Glue and Roller Basics video if you are beginning this craft. Thanks for watching!
I have retired from binding and no longer do production work. My time now is spent with metal and hammers. Thank you for the enquiry. Thanks for watching.
MY BOYFRIEND AND I LOVE ❤️ YOUR CHANNEL. WE LOVE YOUR WORK! AND WE LOVE YOUR PEACEFUL AND BEAUTIFUL 😍 ENERGY!! THANK YOU SO MUCH. PLEASE MAKE MORE VIDEOS. 🙏
I L0VE YOUR CHANNEL!! BEAUTIFUL WORK! AND YOU ARE SO VERY RELAXING TO WATCH. THANK YOU SO MUCH! GOD BLESS 🙌 🙏 ❤️
You're the best, Sage! I love everything about your videos including the pace and your wonderful narratives! Always a pleasure to watch and so inspiring! Many thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for all your instructions, so well done. Good to have you back.
Agreed with other comments: welcome back. Your bindery skills are insanely good.
So glad to see you posting a new video. Your work fascinates me. I hope you decide to continue posting more often. Your attention to detail makes you amazing to watch! Have a great weekend! -Diane from Tampa
This was so helpful. Thank you!
Another excellent tutorial, thank you. You were missed.
Hola Sage!!! Es un gran gusto volver a ver tu tutoriales, eres mi maestro he aprendido tanto, que solo queda decir Gracias !!! saludos.
Gracias, Sandra!
sage.Thank you for come back .you the best. .
Thank you Jhon.
@@Ceropegia Hai
Great video, I've been watching you're videos since the very beginning. Thanks for the effort in filming and explaining, I really appreciate it. Thank you very much.
YAYYYY! FANTASTIC TO SEE YOU BACK! Your videos have encouraged me to do all sorts of crafts you make your tutorials so interesting, easy to follow & inspirational..... Thank you soooo much for all you have shared and for coming back to youtube YAYYYY! x
Great to see you back.
Your videos are always so informative. Thank you.
So beautiful finishing
Good to have you back :)
What a wonderful Video. I never knew it was so much work. You make it look easy.
Great !!! Thank you and greetings from Germany.
Me encantan tus tutoriales!!! thank you
Great to see you back!
It's so good to have you back! Great video btw.
Thanks so much for these videos
Great to see another video from you Sage. Im really chuffed actually, because I did a video tutorial a few year ago showing how I made an inset window on a wedding photo album I was making for my brother....and I did it almost exactly like you did. Obviously Im not a professional bookbinder like yourself, Im just a self taught amateur....but Im chuffed to know that I did it the same way as you, heehee. Lee :)
Thanks for the story!
long time no see!! good to see you making videos again, as always very clear tuition thanks!
Merveilleux 😍 merci 😊
Hey Sage, great video, love my tool from your Etsy store.
Very good
Thanks for watching!
Thanks so much for sharing!
Heyyyyy it's been a while! Welcome back. Great vid
Good day. Thank you for your detailed videos. Great to see you continuing with more videos. I have a question about covers. We use a thick board, but when they dry, they tend to bend. We thought it was moisture but now it appears to be caused by the glue and material contracting when it dries. Any advice on how to avoid or overcome this?
Use a balancing cover - glue a sheet of paper to the inside before gluing on the cover. It just needs to extend to the board edges, not folded around. Then glue on the cover cloth/paper as shown. Both sides will dry and shrink under equal tension and the boards will stay flat. The same technique is used in woodworking, with balancing veneers or laminates glued to the opposite side of the veneered face.
@@willgrime THANK YOU... why does it seem so simple when you think about it 😁 Must appreciated.
Sage - I just found your videos and they are very helpful and honestly, fun to watch. You may have covered this in a video that I haven't gotten to yet, but could you tell us about your guillotine cutter? the manufacturer and set up. It looks a vintage, well loved. If I wanted a similar set up in my studio, what should I look for today? Many thanks.
My "guillotine cutter" is a Board Shear, try calling Ernest Schaeffer in Union New Jersey if you want one. Mine was rescued from a business in Manhattan when all the milliners and bag makers were leaving the Lower West side (Chelsea?). It has been my sidekick for neatly 45 years now, it was made sometime between 1890 and 1920(?) and has been with me at three different addresses. I use it not only for binding but also in the construction of my Paper Tapestries ( check out the photo albums on my facebook page). I don't think I have covered it as a main subject in any video but I have written in comments about it and its use does feature in many of the box making videos. I used to give a full set of demonstrations on how to use it in my "making one is easy" class about ramping up production for hand binders at the Center for Book Arts but I don't know how useful a video would be for hand binders who don't have one or access to one. Thanks for watching!
Hi Sage, Been lurking your channel for a while and love the education and instruction. Can't re-create what you do but am now dabbling in a little repair of some family books. Wouldn't have been brave enough to attempt it without you so thanks! One thing, I totally covet the large rubber hand rollers you use to smooth material. Are those older Brayers or something else? Any source for them you can share? Thanks Again, -Paco
They are my old brayers, I was and still make some prints. Having recently priced them, I am astounded at how much they cost now. I paid $30 to $60 for them 50 years ago, expensive for a student but not like they are now for good rubber rollers. You might be able to find some on line.Try Ebay and then look for new ones. If you are only doing a little binding, they might not be cost effective for you. A teflon folder, while expensive for a folder, might suit you better. Good luck and Thanks for watching!
Hi. I've just discovered your wonderful tutorials which are just what I've been looking for. Do you by any chance, have one for binding with a curved spine, with cords, creating the lovely ridges on the spine? I have searched your channel but unable to find one so far? Many thanks.
What you are looking for is what we call 'in-board work' , that means that the boards are attached to a rounded and backed book that has been sewn on raised cords ( there is no joint where the board meets the spine). I made a number of that type of binding in my early days but none of my clients wanted that type of work, which by the way is professionally done by a number of people ( someone for sewing, a binder which can include the leather prep and covering, a gilder for the edges and a finisher who would be responsible for the gold tooling and polishing). Sometimes the cords are fully recessed into the spine so that the final product has a perfect, smooth, rounded spine.This type of binding is usually a tight back, which means the leather is attached directly to the spine of the book which is usually full bound. It requires a lot of tools and a high level of skill on part of all of the craftsmen involved.
There are other types of bindings that mimic in board work. Usually the spine is made as a hollow (detached) with a hard curved spine and false raised bands. There is usually a joint where the boards meet the spine. Those books are often quarter or half bound as they are less expensive and modestly decorated.
I have not made any videos about books with raised bands. As I have now retired from binding, I have passed a lot of my tools on to younger binders and no longer have what I would need to demonstrate even the starting point of in board work. There are videos for sewing raised bands but I don't know if there are any on the following steps.
Thank you for watching and I hope you will enjoy watching others.
Great to see another presentation from you, can I just ask about your gluing method, what glue to you use and why do you use a roller, and control the glue with this?
Please watch my Glue and Roller Basics, all questions answered in the video plus a show of the set up. It's about efficiency, economy and cleanliness. Thanks for watching!
Great video and the folio looks amazing. My Saturday is so much better thanks to you.
I'm just wondering about the size of the gauge if the covering material is thicker than book cloth, like a faux leather with fabric lining. Should I add to the tickness of the boards one or double thickness of this thicker material?
I usually wrap the gauge with a piece of the cover material. There are two sides to every groove so you need that space for the boards to close to a right angle, you may need a little more to have it close board to board. It's easy to make a joint to test if you have questions about the fit and fold. Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much. Now I know what to do. :)
cool
مبظع اخونا الامريكي بس وش نوع الغراء اللي تستخدمه
نا أستخدم PVA ، يرجى مشاهدة الفيديو الخاص بي "أساسيات الغراء والأسطوانة" التي تمت الإجابة عليها هناك. شكرا للمشاهدة.
I realize you are using bookbinding fabric - how would you do this if you are using a fabric that frays (ie linen)
There are a number of things you can do to prepare the fabric. You can mix some methyl Cellulose like I do in the paper backing silk video, that is to mix it so that it forms a thick spreadable paste. Then lay the fabric out and spread the MC on it with a spreader or a piece of binders board. Let it dry and you should be ready to go, you may want to iron the fabric because the MC will shrink a little as it dries and the fabric may become textured depending on the tightness of the weave. The other thing is to paper back it like I do in the paper backing silk video in which case you will not need to iron afterwards.
I use this method of starch filling the fabric with raw silks and some moderately open fabrics. It is best to avoid fabrics that are thin or have open weaves. ALSO when you use these treated fabrics it is often best to glue the boards instead of the fabric during construction.
Good luck, stay safe and get the vaccination as soon as you can.
what kind of board can i use?
You can use any kind of binder's board , I use Davy Red label; Google your local library supply or go to Talas online. I have no idea where you are or what may be available in your area. Do not use mat board, corrugated cardboard or foam core ( too fragile) most solid board will work for many jobs.
Thanks for watching.
thank you for replying 😍
im from phillipines
Can you tell me what type of Board you are using and where i can purchase?
I used Davy Board in various thicknesses, You can get it from Talas online; google binding supplies and you might find a supplier near to you. If you watch my other videos and look at the comments, many of your questions will be answered. You should also watch the Glue and Roller Basics video if you are beginning this craft. Thanks for watching!
Any new vlogs in the making?
Pls can you make me wedding invitation box with velvet
I have retired from binding and no longer do production work. My time now is spent with metal and hammers. Thank you for the enquiry.
Thanks for watching.