thank you for sharing the precious tips that make life easy. I live in pt Lincoln, south Australia, a small peninsular town of 14000 people. the internet keeps me in contact with the world. i've only just discovered you and am slowly working my way through your videos.
Thanks, Sage. Wonderful and clear presentation. I made my first book a few weeks ago and have done three more since. I have a lot to learn. My covers seem to end up way to small and the case gets crammed in. Plus my cutting needs some practice. I am not giving up however and just today I gave away a book as a birthday gift. I should say that my sewing is really good. I even did a coptic stitch on one of the books.
Thanks for watching. You might benefit by watching my Case Making video and pay attention to how measure the boards and see how I use a paper strip to determine the width of a gauge for spacing the boards to accommodate the spine. I'm glad you are having fun.
Your video is very helpful. I learned a lot from it. Until this day I used brushes to glue, but from now onwards I will use the roller. Thank you very much for this video. CC
Sage Thank you very much for posting your videos. I know it takes a lot of time to do so and I appreciate you sharing your knowledge. I am new to bookbinding so your videos helped me a lot.
That was an amazing vid. I’ve been wondering about your process with your rollers. I think I even asked about it in one of your videos. This popped up in my feed today, and I was thrilled to see it. Thank you.
Another great video. I don't know if this will be helpful to you, but to tame the hateful new roller handle, I used the largest paper clip I could find, bent it to fit the handle and then taped it securely to the side of the roller tray. It keeps the handle out of the glue and handy. Works for me ... hope it might work for you.
If you mean by 'casing out' , making the case, the diluted PVA is usually the best choice. If you meant attaching the case to the book block (casing in) you should always use paste, paste allows you to adjust position should the block move, PVA will not allow for any adjustment. If you have a lot of books to case in you can use the roller with a slightly thinner paste to save a lot of time (you should have two nipping presses). Thanks for watching.
Thanks for taking us through your set-up. It's very helpful to see how experienced binders set up their work areas. Is it safe for your home plumbing to always rinse out your gluing equipment in the kitchen sink?
I only rinse the roller in the sink. The glue dries in the roller pan and it peels off before I use it the next time. The roller is scraped so there's very little PVA going into the sink and there's very little on the scraper. The PVA, as far as I know mixes with the water and poses little, if any, threat to the plumbing. (I'm not so sure about what happens to the water but I trust that the water department can remove it along with all the other stuff in the water before it is released into the environment.) Thanks for watching!
Howdy - just found you - thanks for the videos - very well put together - and, more importantly, I picked up a few good tips/techinques - I've always loved books and am enjoying making my own books and journals -- thanks dude!
@Ceropegia I thank you so much for answering back this fast. Sorry my English is not good enough, but believe me I'm doing my best. About coptic bindings, u know, also love to bind notebooks, & was thinking about make some of them with color sheets for teenagers. Thought coptic one could be an atractive way to catch them.
I do really thank you for all your good advices. I'm from Mexico and I just love bookbinding. Your patience and your knowledge are so remarkable, and I really appreciate that. I'm already suscribed to your channel, expecting you to upload more videos. I'm wondering if you know about coptic stitch binding. In fact, was looking for something about that 3 hours ago, when I found you! I just couldn't restrain my wishes to watch most of them. You are a very nice teacher. Thanks again.
Very informative thanks for the link, I am a self taught but still learning book binder and love hints and tips from your tutorials, I still have a few issues with my covers but am getting there slowly - I think🙄
If you are making a book the size of my pad you should look at my videos on Perfect Bound Book Block, books that large need to have their spines lined as well as the scoring and cord insets I demo there. Good luck and thanks for watching. PS you can clamp with a board and c clamps to a table top if you don't have a press.
It is a Jacques Board Shear, probably made in the 1890's or the 1920's. There are other board shears available if you search for one. Thanks for watching.
Sage - your videos are so helpful - thank you. Do you think diluted PVA glue is better for casing out than specialist paste which I've always used before?
Thank you so much for sharing your skill and experience! 2 questions about the glue rollers: (1) Where can l get refill rollers, or extra roller kits? Can’t find them locally and online vendors have outrageous shipping charges. Local Dollar stores discontinued the Sure-Line ones. (2) Are foam rollers, or ones with thicker nap than the ones you use, suitable?
I just did a quick search, Google Shur-line touch up roller and you will get an answer, they are also available from Amazon. The packaging for the refill rollers was in French... but I'm sure that they will fit. Thank you for your comment and for watching. If you clean the rollers like I do in the video and rinse them well, you will get a lot of use without having to replace very often. Thanks again for watching.
The shoreline roller: you stated they no longer make the ones with the handles that have a hole at the bottom- I know where you can get that part of the apparatus if you can get the roller part. I purchased several art sponge rollers at a store called "The Dollar Tree" for my grandson, and the handle that comes on these are exactly the same as the one in your video. The manufacturer they use is called Greenbrier I believe. They manufacture most of their goods. Hope it helps.
@justclaussen Besides this is not a highly recommended binding, this 1 could make these notebooks look a little bit different among the youths, right? I was expecting you to know about that, because you are a veeery good teacher. Your instructions are so clear and neat.. anyway. Thanks anyway for yout info. Greetings from México.
Sage, I don't know if you realize how incredibly helpful your videos are. When I first learned how to do bookbinding, we used Yes paste. Are you familiar? I had a heck of a time finding it a couple of years ago, but when I finally did, I wondered why it was the only glue my instructor used. It's so thick that I can't use a brush or roller, so I end up using a modified spatula. I thought Yes paste may be preferred because it's such a dry paste, but watching you, it doesn't seem to be a problem for you to use a rather liquidy glue. Glue seems to be such a problem for me -- just getting one small dab on the outside of a book cover stains it. I am going to try your method for a "gluing station." I've always used separate paper, but still make a mess of it. I was watching you so closely to see if you ever got glue on your fingertips. Are you so good now that it just doesn't happen? I saw that you had a small towel, but is glue staining ever a problem for you? Thanks again!
+Lori Riley - Hi Lori, When I hold the paper down to glue it out, my fingers are usually on the unglued half. When I hold it down on the glued side, I curl my fingers so that the glued paper is in contact with the tops of my fingernails, that way the pads of my fingers stay clean. (The thumb is usually not in contact with the glued surface) I call it the 'Tarantula on a griddle' position. The towel is there for wiping glue from fingers, sometimes... Glue staining is extremely rare for me. BTW I'm using PVA, cold flexible adhesive 'glue' it's #22 from Ernest Schaeffer in Union, NJ. Thanks for watching, you'll find that the gluing station will keep you clean and organized.
+Sage Reynolds Hi Sage, Thanks for replying. Your Tarantula technique sounds perfect. I hadn't even thought of that, but it makes perfect sense. God, why didn't that ever occur to me? My most recent glue purchase is Jade 403 from Talus. I'll definitely check out No. 22 from Ernest next time I'm ordering. Thanks again -- you're brilliant!
I'm making a big book the same size as that for my art and i was wondering can i just keep to layers of glue a gauze until it's strong enough to pick up and use. And also holy would i put a hard cover on a book that big. Thank you
First, the PVA should always be diluted with water to use the roller. Straight PVA as it comes from the container is too thick and will tend to form a skin in the pan. You can use any adhesive intended for binding. ( jade. etc) Do not use Elmer's, it is a milk glue, it is not flexible when dry and will yellow with time. If you value your work, use the best materials available.
Sage Reynolds is it ok to use a water based PVA? It is stronger or much less fast tack than your straight PVA? Please can you tell me the brand of your Straight PVA =( or any PVA that will you recommend? Thank you and God Bless.
I would try with PVA, but there may be better adhesives out there. That might be a question for Google. There are so many different plastics and PVA may work with one and not another. It would also depend on the plastic's thickness and the intended use, like, do you need flexibility or will it have to bend around a board, etc. Thanks for watching.
@@Ceropegia thanks for getting back to me. I couldn't find a definitive answer on the subject online. the material is a very thin one-sided laminate. I've so far tried bookbinding glue, Elmer's glue-all, and rubber cement, none of them worked. I suppose the best way to go about it is try as many products as possible and hope at least one of them works. Thanks again!
Great video, I am new to book binding a like the idea of a roller instead of a brush. Also like the glue out pad. I do have a question, you state you use straight PVA glue, is there any particular brand you use? Thanks again.
Hello Sage ... I've been applying a high-quality glue to my paper book binding projects and have come to terms with the fact that the glue is not pH-neutral or 'acid free'. For archival purposes, is this really a big issue? Also, is your glue acid free? Is there something I can do to my books/journals to protect them after the fact? Thanks and great tutorials.
The worry over acidity is out of proportion to the problem. All glues and adhesives have to be acidic to have any strength, PVA, once it is dry is stable and will not affect the acidity. You are more likely to find acidic contamination from the air and what ever the paper was made with in the first place. In making repairs I saw that even hide glues did little damage to the paper, the damage came from use and chemicals in the paper manufacture, which leads me to believe that hide glues are of little concern. A while back, people were making things acid free, the problem with that is that, in life and nature, everything leans toward an average, the acid free items became, because they were neutral, acid attractors ( Some C-print photos were ruined in acid free boxes...). I also found the 'acid free' boards to be weak and friable. Another thought is that PVA, once dry creates a barrier through which acid is not as likely to migrate. The best bet is to use good materials throughout your projects, they will certainly last your lifetime, barring floods, or other catastrophes... ;) Thanks for watching and have fun making your books.
If you sew a book in the traditional way and the paper grain is running parallel to the spine, the book will always open flat. I never did the coptic books because they are an 'open' binding. The whole premise, after accessibility, of binding is to preserve what is on the page, coptic binding leaves the book open on all four sides to dust, intrusions of insects and other destructive events. Coptic books survive better in the desert where they were made, in a temperate climate they are more open to humidity changes than a traditional, pressed binding (which will invite foxing and mold). Thanks for watching!
It sounds like the paper may be too heavy for the format and/or the grain is perpendicular to the spine. Without seeing the book, I can make no further guess as to what may be wrong. there is a commercial gallery guide published here in NY. It is always printed and bound with the paper grain perpendicular to the spine. It is the most frustrating thing to handle because it always wants to close up and it's only a paper back about a quarter inch thick... thanks for watching.
When and where in the bookbinding process do you use PVA or MC? Do you use PVA throughout your book binding process, or do you switch between the two adhesives for different parts of the book? Thank you.
PVA is for fast tack, you use it for most of the operations in binding and box making because it is strong and dries quickly. When you case in a book you use wheat paste, not MC, you could use it in a pinch but it oozes out under pressure. Never mix MC with PVA it makes a gummy mess and defeats the purpose of a fast tack. Please see my videos on casing in and paper backing silk, where everything is explained and demonstrated. Thanks for watching.
Watch the glue and roller video and all questions are answered. Please read the comments under the box videos. I use many different fabrics and papers in this series. Thanks for watching.
Hallo Reynolds,i have one question. What kind of roller(texture) do you use? Is it for painting the walls? Spunge roller or vowen, or IF you can tell me the name of your roller! Thank u very much for the answer, keep the good work!!!
it's a regular short knap roller for painting walls etc. made by Shurline , there may be comparable rollers where you live. Sponge rollers do not work.
If it is on paper, you will probably have to peel it off taking some of the paper surface with it. It is supposed to be reversible with water but I have never had to do that. It is a question I will have to ask of my restorer friends. If it is in your plastic pan just lift an edge and pull, it will come off like a second skin. Thanks for watching.
@@Ceropegia Thanks. It's on the inside spine of the cover (I removed the textblock and now want to reglue the textblock back on. The glue on the inside spine is hard and dry. It's a thin book, so it's a thin spine, and I'm worried about damaging the paper underneath by trying to scrape it off). Someone suggested to me to use methyl cellulose or a paste made of rice starch. I had never heard of trying to dissolve glue this way so thought I would ask you.
These videos are very interesting and helpful. Thank you! But I have problems with casing in a book. First of all, I can't find a recipe for wallpaper paste that has the same consistency as yours. I tried many options but I think all of them are too moist (definietely moister than yours) - do you make your own paste or buy ready to use one? The second problem is with casing in. First, I glue endpapers and tight them to the case, but when the book dries and I open it, top end of the enpaper (about 3/8", near from the spine, on one side only) doesn't hold the cover. So the book doesn't open symmetrically, it looks like all signatures would like to unstick from the cover on one side. Maybe the problem is with wrong dimensions of the cover. Could you please help me? Maybe you met this problem before.
Michal, I simply mix up wheat paste with water in a small bowl. it's about 1 to 1.5 tablespoons dry paste to about 4-6 ounces of water. Whisk it together and let it sit for a few moments. as for your casing in problem, you do need a nipping press. Please watch my 'making a case' and 'casing in' videos and ask again if you don't solve your problem. Sorry to have kept you waiting, The new way Google has handled comments makes it difficult for me to know if I even have a question to answer.
Mr. Sage, I would love to ask questions: Let's say you're hired for designing 1000 box. Do you just build a prototype, hand it to other people, and let them finish the big amount of order? Or you build everything by yourself? --- I am in love with design, and recently exploring packaging design. I truly love your Prototype and Gift Box series. Thank you, Mr. Sage! Have a good enough, day! :- )
+El Nino H. Maulana - Most clients who need 1000 pieces cannot afford me doing all the work. I will make a prototype, charge accordingly and let them go to a manufacturer with my design. I have made 80 and 150 boxes. The usual order for boxes is around 20. Time constraints for large orders usually demand mechanization and I am all hand building... When I made invitations, I would hand make up to about 300 pieces. More than that, take it to a machine... Thanks for watching!
+Sage Reynolds - Thanks, Mr. Sage! A question more: Based on your Prototype Box series, you make the box with yellow board, does machine with the exact same material can produce the exact same box? Or the box you create with yellow board is just an example of design, and then, machine will build it, not with yellow board but carton board instead? --- Keep up the good work, Mr. Sage!
The board is not yellow , that is the lining paper. The box maker is responsible for making a copy of my work, sometimes there are materials changes but that is between the box manufacturer and the client. After I make the prototype I rarely see the manufactured product as I have been dealing only with the client.
I hope you mean PVA not PVC which is a plastic from which pipes are made. Have you watched my box making videos? You will see that I do not glue the covering material, I glue the box, which will minimize the paper stretching even if it is crappy paper. When you glue paper it will stretch parallel to the grain, cheap, calendared paper like gift wrap will stretch and curl with a great deal of energy, better or thicker papers, paper backed book cloth and vinyl coated papers like skivertex will stretch much less if at all. If you are spending the time to make boxes it is advisable to use the best covering material appropriate to the needs of the box and its intended use. You never can tell how a box will be used after it leaves your hands, I still have boxes I made 30 years ago that I covered with my paste papers and book cloth, they are still in use and ( a little worn) will be for some time more. Thanks for watching and if you haven't yet, take a look at my box making and box covering videos.
@@Ceropegia Thanks! This is very helpful! Yes I meant PVA not PVC. The boxes I am making are replacements\enlargements of old Avalon Hill game boxes. Since many of my boxes are over 26" its hard to find art paper that size. Thanks for the quick response. I have been enjoying watching your box making\covering videos. Great stuf!!
I see that your video was posted 12 years ago so I hope this won't be an irritatingly old and well-addressed question, but I have used workable spray mounting adhesive (god help my lungs) and I like that ordinary paper will fold and work very nicely and I can print an image on the paper and ... Um ... I'm sure this is terrible wrong. But is it?
Spray mounting adhesive has its uses. Usually on graphic arts projects and ephemera. My understanding is that it is not archival, and if it is anything like the adhesives on masking tape, it will eventually dry out and lose adhesion. I would never use it on books or my boxes. Spraying is also time consuming and, I would think difficult to control when you are working on a number of pieces. PVA is really the way to go if you are making anything you want to have around for a long time and time-saving if you are doing a lot of pieces, it's also safer for your lungs. Thanks for watching.
You should look at paint stores, home Depot and any store where you are living that may have something like that. Be sure you get one with a relatively flat rolling area, not one with high ridges. Thanks for watching.
Hi Sage, I'm just getting into book binding so your videos are very helpful. I do have question about the glue you are using. What brand is it? I've looked on the internet for PVC glues but I come away more confused than informed. Thanks.
Michelle A.Floyd The adhesive is PVA not PVC. Go To Talas on line and you will see some there. It is sometimes sold as Jade adhesive, there are a number of formulas and depending on where you are in the world you should be able to find a 'local' brand or formula. I use a 'number 22 cold flexible glue' sold by Ernest Schaeffer in Union, New Jersey. If you are in the US you can probably order a gallon from him by telephone, he also has other binders' supplies. Good luck and thanks for watching.
It's a plastic roller pan, the important thing is that it have small ribs in the bottom , not the large bumps that you find in metal pans and some pan liners. Thanks for watching.
Dexter, I'm glad to have a new fan, but you should watch the video a second time and look at the comments below before you ask questions. Everything you ask about is at hand or n the video. The comment just below this one answers the roller question. Thanks for watching!
I guess that is a term I picked up in Britain, 'glued out' simply means the piece has been completely covered with glue. In over thirty years you are the first person to ask me about that. We also say 'gluing out' in the present tense and 'glue out' as a description or as a command. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the tips in this and your slipcase videos (and others). I am starting a project wherein I need to make over two dozen slipcases. I am using .046 chipboard (www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LNU4EDU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00) because the slipcases are not very large, just 6 x 6 x 2 1/8. I made one slipcase this morning for practice and to learn the process before I embark on the project as a whole. When I glued the lining paper to the chipboard (and the outer covering as well) there was, of course some warpage. It wasn't too bad and I can deal with it. I weighted the chipboard/lining paper down while the glue dried somewhat before fabricating the box. My question is this: I did not thin my PVA as this was just a quick experiment. The PVA was not particularly thick, but I am wondering if I thin it will the warpage issue become worse? I don't want it any worse than it was on this box.
+Richard Monk The PVA should be thinned a little so that it flows easily and you deposit a thin layer. Warping is usually caused by the paper which expands when wet and then contracts when it dries. Did you glue the boards or the paper? Sometimes the reverse of what you are doing will decrease warping. Also if it is the paper causing the warp, timing can be an issue if you are slow the paper has more time to expand and will warp the board more, in cases like that I glue the board and then rub the paper into it quickly so that they expand and dry together.
Thank you for your willingness to share! Something so simple as gluing can certainly be messy. Your process is so easy and efficient.
Still amazing after all these years! Thanks!
You have such a wonderful studio space. Thanks for this very helpful tutorial. Love your work. Thanks for sharing 🇿🇦💫
These tricks of the trade are so useful, thanks for all these brilliant tips.
thank you for sharing the precious tips that make life easy. I live in pt Lincoln, south Australia, a small peninsular town of 14000 people. the internet keeps me in contact with the world. i've only just discovered you and am slowly working my way through your videos.
Thanks, Sage. Wonderful and clear presentation. I made my first book a few weeks ago and have done three more since. I have a lot to learn. My covers seem to end up way to small and the case gets crammed in. Plus my cutting needs some practice. I am not giving up however and just today I gave away a book as a birthday gift. I should say that my sewing is really good. I even did a coptic stitch on one of the books.
Thanks for watching. You might benefit by watching my Case Making video and pay attention to how measure the boards and see how I use a paper strip to determine the width of a gauge for spacing the boards to accommodate the spine. I'm glad you are having fun.
Cool!! I learn new things from you everytime I watch your videos. Thank you!!
Hi Sage
Excellent film. You have a very efficient way of gluing, thanks for sharing your methods.
Best wishes
Billie :)
Your video is very helpful. I learned a lot from it. Until this day I used brushes to glue, but from now onwards I will use the roller. Thank you very much for this video. CC
Sage Thank you very much for posting your videos. I know it takes a lot of time to do so and I appreciate you sharing your knowledge. I am new to bookbinding so your videos helped me a lot.
That was an amazing vid. I’ve been wondering about your process with your rollers. I think I even asked about it in one of your videos. This popped up in my feed today, and I was thrilled to see it. Thank you.
Thanks! Looking to make boxes for craft fairs, and your techniques will save a lot of time! I've learned a lot!
I agree with Miranda. Your techniques are a life-saver. Thank you so much.
Another great video. I don't know if this will be helpful to you, but to tame the hateful new roller handle, I used the largest paper clip I could find, bent it to fit the handle and then taped it securely to the side of the roller tray. It keeps the handle out of the glue and handy. Works for me ... hope it might work for you.
If you mean by 'casing out' , making the case, the diluted PVA is usually the best choice. If you meant attaching the case to the book block (casing in) you should always use paste, paste allows you to adjust position should the block move, PVA will not allow for any adjustment. If you have a lot of books to case in you can use the roller with a slightly thinner paste to save a lot of time (you should have two nipping presses).
Thanks for watching.
Great video and techniques. I have learnt so much from this. Thanks so much for sharing
So HELPFUL. Great idea to make the "glue pad."
You are the BEST. Thank you for every video. So appreciative.
Great tips especially the gluing surface tabloid book sheets!
Thank you so much! I will have to try your techniques! This was very helpful!
YES!!! You answerted my questions and MORE. Thanks for such wonderful videos.
Thanks for taking us through your set-up. It's very helpful to see how experienced binders set up their work areas. Is it safe for your home plumbing to always rinse out your gluing equipment in the kitchen sink?
I only rinse the roller in the sink. The glue dries in the roller pan and it peels off before I use it the next time. The roller is scraped so there's very little PVA going into the sink and there's very little on the scraper. The PVA, as far as I know mixes with the water and poses little, if any, threat to the plumbing. (I'm not so sure about what happens to the water but I trust that the water department can remove it along with all the other stuff in the water before it is released into the environment.) Thanks for watching!
Thank you!!! I've learned so much from your videos. Really smart. Greetings from Arequipa, Perú.
What a great setup. Thanks for sharing!
Loved this so much. I am having problems hitting the like button but was able to thumb up! Thanks ssooooooooo much!!!!! You are awesome!
+Max Miggly - Thanks for watching!
Howdy - just found you - thanks for the videos - very well put together - and, more importantly, I picked up a few good tips/techinques - I've always loved books and am enjoying making my own books and journals -- thanks dude!
Thank you sir. you have given a very good information regarding application of glue. wish you all the best
Thanks for your generosity in sharing your knowledge.
Thank you for this. Just what I needed. (PS Love your beautiful red press.)
@Ceropegia I thank you so much for answering back this fast. Sorry my English is not good enough, but believe me I'm doing my best. About coptic bindings, u know, also love to bind notebooks, & was thinking about make some of them with color sheets for teenagers. Thought coptic one could be an atractive way to catch them.
I do really thank you for all your good advices. I'm from Mexico and I just love bookbinding. Your patience and your knowledge are so remarkable, and I really appreciate that. I'm already suscribed to your channel, expecting you to upload more videos. I'm wondering if you know about coptic stitch binding. In fact, was looking for something about that 3 hours ago, when I found you! I just couldn't restrain my wishes to watch most of them. You are a very nice teacher. Thanks again.
You are just awesome, excellent teacher!
Great info! Going shopping for those tools.
Very informative thanks for the link, I am a self taught but still learning book binder and love hints and tips from your tutorials, I still have a few issues with my covers but am getting there slowly - I think🙄
Just remember to have fun, Thanks for watching!
If you are making a book the size of my pad you should look at my videos on Perfect Bound Book Block, books that large need to have their spines lined as well as the scoring and cord insets I demo there. Good luck and thanks for watching. PS you can clamp with a board and c clamps to a table top if you don't have a press.
Great tips on process with glue. Thanks.
Super tips. Keep the tutorials coming.Thanks
Thank you again, I appreciate this video, lol, I kept asking through out which glue, found this in your list. your videos are very educational.
Thanks for these videos! Very interesting and helpful!
Curious to know what that table trimmer is called if it has a more proper name. It's so cool! I appreciate your videos.
It is a Jacques Board Shear, probably made in the 1890's or the 1920's. There are other board shears available if you search for one. Thanks for watching.
Oh my God, I've learned so much from you. Thank you very much!
Thanks for watching.
Sage - your videos are so helpful - thank you. Do you think diluted PVA glue is better for casing out than specialist paste which I've always used before?
Thank you so much for sharing your skill and experience! 2 questions about the glue rollers: (1) Where can l get refill rollers, or extra roller kits? Can’t find them locally and online vendors have outrageous shipping charges. Local Dollar stores discontinued the Sure-Line ones. (2) Are foam rollers, or ones with thicker nap than the ones you use, suitable?
I just did a quick search, Google Shur-line touch up roller and you will get an answer, they are also available from Amazon. The packaging for the refill rollers was in French... but I'm sure that they will fit. Thank you for your comment and for watching. If you clean the rollers like I do in the video and rinse them well, you will get a lot of use without having to replace very often. Thanks again for watching.
The shoreline roller: you stated they no longer make the ones with the handles that have a hole at the bottom- I know where you can get that part of the apparatus if you can get the roller part.
I purchased several art sponge rollers at a store called "The Dollar Tree" for my grandson, and the handle that comes on these are exactly the same as the one in your video. The manufacturer they use is called Greenbrier I believe. They manufacture most of their goods.
Hope it helps.
Thank you, that will help some of my viewers if they read the comments.
@justclaussen Besides this is not a highly recommended binding, this 1 could make these notebooks look a little bit different among the youths, right?
I was expecting you to know about that, because you are a veeery good
teacher. Your instructions are so clear and neat.. anyway.
Thanks anyway for yout info.
Greetings from México.
Sage, I don't know if you realize how incredibly helpful your videos are. When I first learned how to do bookbinding, we used Yes paste. Are you familiar? I had a heck of a time finding it a couple of years ago, but when I finally did, I wondered why it was the only glue my instructor used. It's so thick that I can't use a brush or roller, so I end up using a modified spatula. I thought Yes paste may be preferred because it's such a dry paste, but watching you, it doesn't seem to be a problem for you to use a rather liquidy glue.
Glue seems to be such a problem for me -- just getting one small dab on the outside of a book cover stains it. I am going to try your method for a "gluing station." I've always used separate paper, but still make a mess of it. I was watching you so closely to see if you ever got glue on your fingertips. Are you so good now that it just doesn't happen? I saw that you had a small towel, but is glue staining ever a problem for you? Thanks again!
+Lori Riley - Hi Lori, When I hold the paper down to glue it out, my fingers are usually on the unglued half. When I hold it down on the glued side, I curl my fingers so that the glued paper is in contact with the tops of my fingernails, that way the pads of my fingers stay clean. (The thumb is usually not in contact with the glued surface) I call it the 'Tarantula on a griddle' position. The towel is there for wiping glue from fingers, sometimes... Glue staining is extremely rare for me. BTW I'm using PVA, cold flexible adhesive 'glue' it's #22 from Ernest Schaeffer in Union, NJ.
Thanks for watching, you'll find that the gluing station will keep you clean and organized.
+Sage Reynolds Hi Sage, Thanks for replying. Your Tarantula technique sounds perfect. I hadn't even thought of that, but it makes perfect sense. God, why didn't that ever occur to me?
My most recent glue purchase is Jade 403 from Talus. I'll definitely check out No. 22 from Ernest next time I'm ordering. Thanks again -- you're brilliant!
I'm making a big book the same size as that for my art and i was wondering can i just keep to layers of glue a gauze until it's strong enough to pick up and use. And also holy would i put a hard cover on a book that big. Thank you
First, the PVA should always be diluted with water to use the roller. Straight PVA as it comes from the container is too thick and will tend to form a skin in the pan. You can use any adhesive intended for binding. ( jade. etc) Do not use Elmer's, it is a milk glue, it is not flexible when dry and will yellow with time. If you value your work, use the best materials available.
Sage Reynolds is it ok to use a water based PVA? It is stronger or much less fast tack than your straight PVA?
Please can you tell me the brand of your Straight PVA =( or any PVA that will you recommend? Thank you and God Bless.
Great videos. Thank you.
Hi, what kind of adhesive would you recommend if I'm sticking together one surface laminated with matte plastic sheet with another that's plain paper?
I would try with PVA, but there may be better adhesives out there. That might be a question for Google. There are so many different plastics and PVA may work with one and not another. It would also depend on the plastic's thickness and the intended use, like, do you need flexibility or will it have to bend around a board, etc. Thanks for watching.
@@Ceropegia thanks for getting back to me. I couldn't find a definitive answer on the subject online. the material is a very thin one-sided laminate. I've so far tried bookbinding glue, Elmer's glue-all, and rubber cement, none of them worked.
I suppose the best way to go about it is try as many products as possible and hope at least one of them works. Thanks again!
Great video, I am new to book binding a like the idea of a roller instead of a brush. Also like the glue out pad. I do have a question, you state you use straight PVA glue, is there any particular brand you use? Thanks again.
Hello Sage ... I've been applying a high-quality glue to my paper book binding projects and have come to terms with the fact that the glue is not pH-neutral or 'acid free'. For archival purposes, is this really a big issue? Also, is your glue acid free? Is there something I can do to my books/journals to protect them after the fact? Thanks and great tutorials.
The worry over acidity is out of proportion to the problem. All glues and adhesives have to be acidic to have any strength, PVA, once it is dry is stable and will not affect the acidity. You are more likely to find acidic contamination from the air and what ever the paper was made with in the first place. In making repairs I saw that even hide glues did little damage to the paper, the damage came from use and chemicals in the paper manufacture, which leads me to believe that hide glues are of little concern. A while back, people were making things acid free, the problem with that is that, in life and nature, everything leans toward an average, the acid free items became, because they were neutral, acid attractors ( Some C-print photos were ruined in acid free boxes...). I also found the 'acid free' boards to be weak and friable. Another thought is that PVA, once dry creates a barrier through which acid is not as likely to migrate. The best bet is to use good materials throughout your projects, they will certainly last your lifetime, barring floods, or other catastrophes... ;)
Thanks for watching and have fun making your books.
you've taught me so much thank you for these. do you do Copic stitch books often? I draw and I need books that lay more flat
If you sew a book in the traditional way and the paper grain is running parallel to the spine, the book will always open flat. I never did the coptic books because they are an 'open' binding. The whole premise, after accessibility, of binding is to preserve what is on the page, coptic binding leaves the book open on all four sides to dust, intrusions of insects and other destructive events. Coptic books survive better in the desert where they were made, in a temperate climate they are more open to humidity changes than a traditional, pressed binding (which will invite foxing and mold).
Thanks for watching!
It sounds like the paper may be too heavy for the format and/or the grain is perpendicular to the spine. Without seeing the book, I can make no further guess as to what may be wrong. there is a commercial gallery guide published here in NY. It is always printed and bound with the paper grain perpendicular to the spine. It is the most frustrating thing to handle because it always wants to close up and it's only a paper back about a quarter inch thick... thanks for watching.
You're welcome.
When and where in the bookbinding process do you use PVA or MC? Do you use PVA throughout your book binding process, or do you switch between the two adhesives for different parts of the book? Thank you.
PVA is for fast tack, you use it for most of the operations in binding and box making because it is strong and dries quickly. When you case in a book you use wheat paste, not MC, you could use it in a pinch but it oozes out under pressure. Never mix MC with PVA it makes a gummy mess and defeats the purpose of a fast tack. Please see my videos on casing in and paper backing silk, where everything is explained and demonstrated. Thanks for watching.
What kind of paper do you use to cover the box? and what glue do you use?
Watch the glue and roller video and all questions are answered. Please read the comments under the box videos. I use many different fabrics and papers in this series. Thanks for watching.
@@Ceropegia Thanks you!
Does the paper have to go in the garbage? Can it not be recycled?
Hello, do you use a distilled water for thinning the glue or ordinary tap water? Thank you :)
I use tap water. Thanks for watching!
Hallo Reynolds,i have one question. What kind of roller(texture) do you use? Is it for painting the walls? Spunge roller or vowen, or IF you can tell me the name of your roller! Thank u very much for the answer, keep the good work!!!
it's a regular short knap roller for painting walls etc. made by Shurline , there may be comparable rollers where you live. Sponge rollers do not work.
Sage Reynolds thank you :)
Hi Sage, I was wondering what you recommend for dissolving dried on PVA glue?
If it is on paper, you will probably have to peel it off taking some of the paper surface with it. It is supposed to be reversible with water but I have never had to do that. It is a question I will have to ask of my restorer friends. If it is in your plastic pan just lift an edge and pull, it will come off like a second skin. Thanks for watching.
@@Ceropegia Thanks. It's on the inside spine of the cover (I removed the textblock and now want to reglue the textblock back on. The glue on the inside spine is hard and dry. It's a thin book, so it's a thin spine, and I'm worried about damaging the paper underneath by trying to scrape it off). Someone suggested to me to use methyl cellulose or a paste made of rice starch. I had never heard of trying to dissolve glue this way so thought I would ask you.
These videos are very interesting and helpful. Thank you! But I have problems with casing in a book. First of all, I can't find a recipe for wallpaper paste that has the same consistency as yours. I tried many options but I think all of them are too moist (definietely moister than yours) - do you make your own paste or buy ready to use one? The second problem is with casing in. First, I glue endpapers and tight them to the case, but when the book dries and I open it, top end of the enpaper (about 3/8", near from the spine, on one side only) doesn't hold the cover. So the book doesn't open symmetrically, it looks like all signatures would like to unstick from the cover on one side. Maybe the problem is with wrong dimensions of the cover. Could you please help me? Maybe you met this problem before.
Michal, I simply mix up wheat paste with water in a small bowl. it's about 1 to 1.5 tablespoons dry paste to about 4-6 ounces of water. Whisk it together and let it sit for a few moments. as for your casing in problem, you do need a nipping press. Please watch my 'making a case' and 'casing in' videos and ask again if you don't solve your problem. Sorry to have kept you waiting, The new way Google has handled comments makes it difficult for me to know if I even have a question to answer.
Thnx!! Very helpful and informative!
Mr. Sage, I would love to ask questions:
Let's say you're hired for designing 1000 box. Do you just build a prototype, hand it to other people, and let them finish the big amount of order? Or you build everything by yourself?
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I am in love with design, and recently exploring packaging design. I truly love your Prototype and Gift Box series.
Thank you, Mr. Sage! Have a good enough, day! :- )
+El Nino H. Maulana - Most clients who need 1000 pieces cannot afford me doing all the work. I will make a prototype, charge accordingly and let them go to a manufacturer with my design. I have made 80 and 150 boxes. The usual order for boxes is around 20. Time constraints for large orders usually demand mechanization and I am all hand building... When I made invitations, I would hand make up to about 300 pieces. More than that, take it to a machine... Thanks for watching!
+Sage Reynolds - Thanks, Mr. Sage! A question more:
Based on your Prototype Box series, you make the box with yellow board, does machine with the exact same material can produce the exact same box? Or the box you create with yellow board is just an example of design, and then, machine will build it, not with yellow board but carton board instead?
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Keep up the good work, Mr. Sage!
The board is not yellow , that is the lining paper. The box maker is responsible for making a copy of my work, sometimes there are materials changes but that is between the box manufacturer and the client. After I make the prototype I rarely see the manufactured product as I have been dealing only with the client.
Thank you, Mr. Sage! :- )
When gluing boxes, how do I keep my paper from wrinkling or bubbling when I use PVC glue?
I hope you mean PVA not PVC which is a plastic from which pipes are made. Have you watched my box making videos? You will see that I do not glue the covering material, I glue the box, which will minimize the paper stretching even if it is crappy paper. When you glue paper it will stretch parallel to the grain, cheap, calendared paper like gift wrap will stretch and curl with a great deal of energy, better or thicker papers, paper backed book cloth and vinyl coated papers like skivertex will stretch much less if at all. If you are spending the time to make boxes it is advisable to use the best covering material appropriate to the needs of the box and its intended use. You never can tell how a box will be used after it leaves your hands, I still have boxes I made 30 years ago that I covered with my paste papers and book cloth, they are still in use and ( a little worn) will be for some time more. Thanks for watching and if you haven't yet, take a look at my box making and box covering videos.
@@Ceropegia Thanks! This is very helpful! Yes I meant PVA not PVC. The boxes I am making are replacements\enlargements of old Avalon Hill game boxes. Since many of my boxes are over 26" its hard to find art paper that size. Thanks for the quick response. I have been enjoying watching your box making\covering videos. Great stuf!!
love the glueing pad....
I see that your video was posted 12 years ago so I hope this won't be an irritatingly old and well-addressed question, but I have used workable spray mounting adhesive (god help my lungs) and I like that ordinary paper will fold and work very nicely and I can print an image on the paper and ... Um ... I'm sure this is terrible wrong. But is it?
Spray mounting adhesive has its uses. Usually on graphic arts projects and ephemera. My understanding is that it is not archival, and if it is anything like the adhesives on masking tape, it will eventually dry out and lose adhesion. I would never use it on books or my boxes. Spraying is also time consuming and, I would think difficult to control when you are working on a number of pieces. PVA is really the way to go if you are making anything you want to have around for a long time and time-saving if you are doing a lot of pieces, it's also safer for your lungs. Thanks for watching.
La diluyes con agua?
Si - Yes.
Where i can buy the blue reservoir?
You should look at paint stores, home Depot and any store where you are living that may have something like that. Be sure you get one with a relatively flat rolling area, not one with high ridges. Thanks for watching.
Hello - love your videos! I can't find any vinyl paint pans or paint pans with low ridges - do you have a source you can share? Thank you!
+Adele Henderson Lowe's has a nice pan.
Hey, I learned some useful things!
Thank you!! 👍
Is this glue mixture the same for constructing your boxes as well?
+Natalie Shrives - Yes it is, Thanks for watching!
Thank you! Much appreciated
Could you please your straight PVA branch? Many Thanks.
I want to know which kind of pva in this video?
Please read the comments below. Thanks for watching.
vinh nguyen
Please read the comments below. Thanks for watching.
+Sage Reynolds thanks i will read it
Hi Sage, I'm just getting into book binding so your videos are very helpful. I do have question about the glue you are using. What brand is it? I've looked on the internet for PVC glues but I come away more confused than informed. Thanks.
Michelle A.Floyd The adhesive is PVA not PVC. Go To Talas on line and you will see some there. It is sometimes sold as Jade adhesive, there are a number of formulas and depending on where you are in the world you should be able to find a 'local' brand or formula. I use a 'number 22 cold flexible glue' sold by Ernest Schaeffer in Union, New Jersey. If you are in the US you can probably order a gallon from him by telephone, he also has other binders' supplies. Good luck and thanks for watching.
Thanks so much!
Did you call it a vinyl rolling pan? Or is it just plastic?
It's a plastic roller pan, the important thing is that it have small ribs in the bottom , not the large bumps that you find in metal pans and some pan liners. Thanks for watching.
hey, short knap mini roller, what material? where can I get...?
short-pile roller?
Great video! Thank you.
TA
Awesome. Thank you.
AWESOME!
Duvilax BD-20 glue? water?
good tips … i was looking forward to seeing you peel off that giant glue skin!
thank lot,darling-i had lot of help,your videos,wonderfull-
great technic., Thanks,.
Thanks. Very good.
I like this video but miss your green jumper!
hey, paint tray and Mini roller sponge type?
Dexter, I'm glad to have a new fan, but you should watch the video a second time and look at the comments below before you ask questions. Everything you ask about is at hand or n the video. The comment just below this one answers the roller question. Thanks for watching!
Euroll mini painting kit. 5cm sponge, plastic handle. 15 cm. 12x23cm paint pot, good?
You need a short knap roller, sponge is no good. you cannot apply pressure to control the glue content of the roller with sponge.
Hi, what roller is that again? =)
Shur-line at home depot and big paint stores. Thanks for watching.
Thanks a lot!
Glued out ? What does that mean ?
I guess that is a term I picked up in Britain, 'glued out' simply means the piece has been completely covered with glue. In over thirty years you are the first person to ask me about that. We also say 'gluing out' in the present tense and 'glue out' as a description or as a command. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the tips in this and your slipcase videos (and others).
I am starting a project wherein I need to make over two dozen slipcases. I am using .046 chipboard (www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LNU4EDU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00) because the slipcases are not very large, just 6 x 6 x 2 1/8.
I made one slipcase this morning for practice and to learn the process before I embark on the project as a whole. When I glued the lining paper to the chipboard (and the outer covering as well) there was, of course some warpage. It wasn't too bad and I can deal with it. I weighted the chipboard/lining paper down while the glue dried somewhat before fabricating the box.
My question is this: I did not thin my PVA as this was just a quick experiment. The PVA was not particularly thick, but I am wondering if I thin it will the warpage issue become worse? I don't want it any worse than it was on this box.
+Richard Monk The PVA should be thinned a little so that it flows easily and you deposit a thin layer. Warping is usually caused by the paper which expands when wet and then contracts when it dries. Did you glue the boards or the paper? Sometimes the reverse of what you are doing will decrease warping. Also if it is the paper causing the warp, timing can be an issue if you are slow the paper has more time to expand and will warp the board more, in cases like that I glue the board and then rub the paper into it quickly so that they expand and dry together.
Ok thank you so much for you help
Thanks for watching.
Thank you!!
Thank you!
Interesting. Thanks.
u are awesome!
Thanks for watching!
Unbelievable! Unbelievable! Unbelievable!
thangs