Thank you so much for this. I'm new to this particular craft but was already frustrated at not being able to use the huge amount of material left over from dressmaking as cover material!! Woo hoo!!!
1:49 My kingdom for a spray bottle that works like a spray bottle. Most of them spit large drops or fail to mist at all. Now that I've got that off my chest, 😃 thank you so much for such clear instructions and a great video all round. Very very useful.
I know exactly what you mean about those spitting spray bottles! I struggled with that forever until I started buying spray bottles at Home Depot! They always work, and they work forever!
Those glass shelves are super cheap at Ikea, and very heavy-duty! 5$ each! www.ikea.com/us/en/p/besta-glass-shelf-glass-60295532/ You can get longer ones 2 for $24. www.ikea.com/us/en/p/utrusta-shelf-glass-80265609/
🙂 I say wheat flour in the video to distinguish it from other kinds of flour, like rice flour. (You can make flour from all kinds of grain.) I didn't realize until after I made the video that that was confusing people, since we think of "white" bread and "wheat" bread as different things, even though they're both made from wheat flour. So, sorry for the confusion, and you're welcome for the clarification. 😃
I'm so glad I don't need to use HeatN-Bond for this. I'm researching because I'm trying to get into bookbinding and couldn't find any video explaining making bookcloth using only wheat paste. This will make it much easier, cheaper, and more sustainable!
Yes, wheat paste is the only way to go here. This is an old video, and my biggest regret with it is that I even briefly mentioned PVA glue, which should never be used for this process. I don't know what I was thinking... lol!
this is so perfect! I've been trying to glue fabric to books I'm up cycling....and, it's quite a bother, as the fabric will pull and try to stretch, not just be FLAT. I have some fabulous fabrics that I love to use rather than paper, but was really having a hard time with both glue coming through and stability of the fabric!
Excellent video, thanks! I've made several attempts at this process, and my cloth ends up all puckered, not lying flat like yours. Do you have any advice for avoiding this? I believe I've followed your instructions pretty closely.
Make *sure* that your rice paper is larger than the cloth you are covering, and that the rice paper sticks to the glass all the way around the edges. Let it dry completely. This should ensure that it dries perfectly flat. If you have even one edge of the rice paper that isn't large enough to stick to the glass, your cloth will end up puckered.
I found a 4lb. box of wheat paste Wallcovering Adhesive at a thrift store for 1.50$! I figured I could use it in my journal making at some point and now this confirms it. I'm so glad I found this video. I have so many fabrics I love, but only have a small bit of and now I can enjoy them even more so.
I love this tutorial because it lays out this method really well, so thank you, Kristi! ☺ But DON'T be stupid like me--WASH your fabric first!! My cotton fabric quarters from JoAnn's came with some sort of barely noticeable, moisture-resistant coating. I kept getting buckled/warped paper! This might only be true if you're using plexiglass (plastic) instead of real glass. I think wet stuff sticks to real glass better. Hope this helps someone!
When you skip the step of lining your fabric with paper and just glue it right to the bookboard (with PVA) the glue often seeps through the weave of the fabric. If you don't get it off immediately it will dry permanently on the front of your cover fabric, leaving shiny spots and ruining it. ( I think I show this bad result right at the beginning of the video.) This very same thing would happen if you used PVA to adhere the lining paper to the fabric - it would seep through and ruin the front side of the fabric. However, if this same thing were to happen when using wheat paste, even after it dries it's reversible with just water, so you could clean it up after the fact, even after it dries, without it ruining your fabric. The only reason I don't use wheat paste to glue the fabric right to the bookboard (without the liner paper) is because the PVA is stronger, and at that point I want the permanence and the water barrier I get with PVA that I don't get with wheat paste.
This is a wonderful tutorial and I'm grateful you share your knowledge and experience. Is regular all purpose flour the same as wheat flour? Thanks Diane
Thank you :) Yes, just the generic all-purpose flour is what I use. I specify wheat flour just to distinguish it from other flours, like rice flour and almond flour (although you can make paste from those, as well).
Thanks for this very informative video. I just did a test piece with cotton, and it looks good. My question is: - What do you think about using Polyester? I have old trousers, and the material (Polyester), is in good condition still. It would be nice to recycle it.
Unfortunately I don't have too many alternatives to the rice paper that I mention, which is perfect for this. Kraft paper and copy paper won't work because they're too thick. You could try tracing paper, maybe, because it's thinner, but I fear it might still be a bit too stiff. (Worth experimenting with, though.) Pattern making paper, the kind seamstresses use to create clothes patterns might also work, if you could get your hands on that. But, if you end up having to order something, rice paper is what you want. :) It's inexpensive and easy to find at amazon: amzn.to/2VLCpYL
@@jenajohnson3642 Hi Jena - this is the rice paper I use:ua-cam.com/video/ph1GU1qQ1zQ/v-deo.html You can see a list of links to some of the other supplies I use in the description immediately under the video. Just click on "Show More" to see all of them. Let me know if you have any other questions! :)
Thanks for this video - clear and concise while covering potential problems with no unnecessary flim flam! I have one question - is silk suitable for this technique and have you or anyone else tried it? Cheers!
Hi Carl - I haven't tried this with silk, so I don't know what the outcome would be. I'd suggest trying it on a smallish piece first. Just do a test while you're making other bookcloth so it won't take any special effort. I learned to test material the hard way. I made several sheets of bookcloth with a material that was meant for outdoor use, and discovered much too late that whatever they treat the material with to weatherize it also made it impossible to use as bookcloth. Nothing would stay glued to anything. LOL. Anyway, test, and then let us know!
@@KristiWarrenHandmadeBooks Thanks for the reply - and the advice! I don't have any silk to hand so I've ordered a 4x4" sample, and I'll report back at some point, Cheerio, Carl.
My first inclination is to say probably not, I think tracing paper isn't strong enough to stand up to the process. However, I am always one to experiment, so I'd suggest trying it on a test piece to see what happens. Make it a largish test so you can see how a fairly big piece of tracing paper will handle when covered with paste and being moved to a piece of fabric. If you do experiment, let us know how it goes. :)
This certainly could work. I don't use it because I'm fairly certain the adhesive used on Heat'nBond is not acid free and therefore not archival. I try to use only archival materials on the books I make. Just my preference.
Thank you Krisit! I'm learning so much from your tutorials! I have a question about the rice paper. I have a large roll of it left over from my sumi-e painting and it has a smooth side and a rough side. Which side do you put the paste on? Thank you in advance for your reply.
Thank you, Gail! :) It really doesn't matter which side you put the paste on. I guess if I had a gun to my head I'd say put the paste on the smooth side. No, wait... the rough side! Lol. Seriously, it doesn't matter, but I'd probably paste the rough side, thinking it might have a little better adhesion to the fabric. :))
@@KristiWarrenHandmadeBooks Thank you for this reply. I just did make up some paste--from gluten free flour, added some clove oil--I like the smell--and when I watched your video, I noticed the paper came off the roll, and you put it "curved side down" which off my roll, was the smooth side, so I went with that and put the paste on the rough side. Then I get your reply. LOL! So I made a mistake and got it right. Love it when I do that. But it's good to know it doesn't really matter and I hope that gun was only loaded with water. ;-) Now to go find some glass panels laying around this old farmstead. I had a piece of plexiglass I did my test piece on. It's in process of drying as I type. Can I hang it up in the sun to hasten the drying?
@@gailsawyer4235 Yes, I put mine out on a table in the sun to dry when I'm in a hurry. I usually lay them flat just in case they want to pop off, although I've never had that happen. They adhere to glass pretty firmly - I imagine they would to plexiglass, as well. :)
Great video but I don't know how you do it! I have tried several times with both starch paste and methyl cellulose paste, both on glass, acrylic sheet and board and the book cloth turns out so stiff it can stand on its side. After cutting it off it curls up in a tight little roll all buckly and so stiff it’s almost impossible to straighten it out. How I will ever manage to glue it on book board is beyond me... Any suggestions? I am using Chinese mulberry paper (Wenzhou) as backing paper, the only paper similar to Japanese kozo or unryu I can find here. The paper is quite thin, 30 gsm and is not super strong unfortunately. But it’s the best I can come up with, tried others.
Wow, I wish I could help, but I really can't think what might be causing that! My first thought was that it was the backing paper, but as you go on to describe it, it seems like what you are using shouldn't cause that. I guess my only semi-helpful suggestion would be to try changing what you haven't already changed, and that would include that backing paper. Can you order a roll of Unryu online? amzn.to/2VLCpYL Also, try some different fabric, if you haven't already. Maybe make a batch of paste from plain kitchen flour? Crazy result. Keep me posted on your continuing experiments - I'm very interested to discover what is causing this!
Thank you this is very helpful! I tried making my first attempt today. However, air bubbles formed. Is it normal? or do you have any solution to get rid of it?
I use a rubber roller (brayer) and start lightly rolling from the center of the rice paper to the edges, pushing any air bubbles or pockets of paste out. I then finish it off with a large soft brush, brushing from the center out. This combo usually gets rid of all air bubbles. Don't push too hard with the brayer as this will push paste through the weave of your fabric. You can wash it off later since it's water soluble when dry (the whole reason for using paste for this step :) ) but it's just an extra nuisance that I prefer to avoid. :)
Nice tutorial. Since the rice paper is so hard to handle, is there any reason why one couldn't place the fabric on top of it, rather than wrangle the rice paper? I"m new at this, so maybe I'm missing something; just curious. Thanks for a great video. ~ Lisa
I do that with smaller fabrics but you still have to turn it around because the rice paper has to be wider than the cloth so that it adheres to the surface keeping everything from curling up as it dries.
Very helpful video! How long should I let this dry for? Also does it matter what side of the rice paper I put the glue on? I noticed one side is rougher than the other. Thank you!
I always let mine dry overnight, but you can speed the process up by putting it out in the sun. Don't try to remove the bookcloth from the glass if it's even slightly damp, though. It will curl and warp and the result will be very unsatisfying. :) It doesn't really matter which side of the rice paper you use. I'm always changing my mind - rough side up, rough side down - and it never seems to matter at all.
It really depends on the fabric. If it's heavy but has a fairly open weave, the PVA glue will still possibly seep through to the front and ruin it. Also, one reason to back it with paper is to stabilize it and keep it from stretching in odd ways as you are pulling it around your bookboard. If you have a fabric that you think might work without backing it I'd suggest doing a test run first with a small piece of bookboard. Apply the glue and pull it around the edge of the bookboard as if it were the real thing and see if it stretches in funny ways or if glue seeps through. If it does either of those things, you should probably apply the backing. :)
I was given some bookcloth by a commercial bookbinder that did not have any backing. He told me to apply the PVA to the board rather than the cloth. It's a fairly heavy fabric and his suggestion worked very well. I've just come across your videos, looking forward to exploring them.
This is a useful video. I have been using fresh thick cotton cloth, sometimes old denim fabric, directly for book binding and covers. Your method would be quite useful with thin fabrics. But I am not sure we get this kind of paper in India. I make my own wheat (maida) paste. I add a few drops of ink to repel any insects. But for sticking cloth to board, I use Fevicol MR, a white synthetic adhesive that is readily available. This does not show/seep through the fabric. I have bound more than 100 books with good results.
Thanks for the info! In general I always say use whatever works. :) However, one of my personal criteria for the materials I use is that they are archival, and PVA glue is (as is the wheat paste used in this video). Craft adhesives like ModPodge, Elmers, Tacky Glue, and Fevicol MR don't say explicitly that they are archival (which PVA glue does) so I go on the assumption that they are not archival. If they were they'd say, because it's a big selling point. That's why most bookmakers use PVA glue, but as I said, use whatever works for you! :)
@@KristiWarrenHandmadeBooks Thank you for the information on archival quality of the adhesive. This is new to me. PVA glue is not easy to get here in India; it is too costly online. But I will keep this in mind.
Thanks for the comment. Wat kind of fabric wud you yse? Will banian kind of fabric be good... They tend to stretch... And Wat kind of paper u use?? For backing the fabric.. I live in India too... N i don think i wud get the paper that's mentioned either... Kindly reply
@@lydiasabina I use mainly thick handloom cotton cloth, old denim fabric, or cotton- polyester blend if it is thick (like suit material). Banian fabric is strict no-no. I do not use paper to back the cloth, as I use the fabric directly on board.
I was wondering, if as a bookbinder you have ever considered experimenting with the thermal plasticity (reactivation of adhesiveness by heat) of PVA adhesives? As a now retired custom furniture maker, I often had to work with numerous exotic wood veneers to meet various client requests. The ‘traditional’ method was to use hot hide glue with a brass edged veneer ‘hammer’, which is messy, time consuming and sometimes the results are quite unpredictable. In the late 1990s I learned a technique employed by furniture maker Frank Pollaro (arguably now the highest paid furniture maker in the world). It involved very lightly dampening the face of the veneer, taping it to the workbench with gummed paper veneer tape and applying one or two even coats of high quality PVA to the underside of the veneer. This was then allowed to dry. The veneer could then be positioned on the substrate, and working from the centre outward to the edges, it was simply ironed down slowly using a household iron set to cotton/ linen. I used this technique on dozens of different species of wood, including highly figured and irregularly grained, book matched veneers. I never had any problems either with a variety of finishes I used regularly, or had any veneer lift off (after almost two decades now). I have experimented with this technique since 2014 for backing my own book cloth with Kozo or other Japanese rice papers on a variety of cotton and linen fabric weights. I apply the PVA to the backing paper, which I tape to a scrap board of MDF. I have used both a brush and a roller for even glue application centre to edges. I use a thin second coat of PVA only on heavier or textured fabrics. I haven’t had any instances of bleed through into the outer surface of fabric thus far. It seems to me this is exactly the same as using an iron-on interfacing to back cloth for covers. Incidentally, the fabric on the first book cover I made with this technique is still completely secure. I would be curious to hear your comments.
Hi William - It sounds like you have a very workable process for creating your own bookcloth. It sounds a bit more complex than the process I use but, like any process, the more you do it the easier it gets, I'm sure. I'm curious how stiff the bookcloth is once everything is adhered together? I know that PVA glue is flexible, but it does dry stiffer than paste, which remains *very* flexible while still giving body to the cloth, stabilizing it. Regardless, sounds like you have a process you like and trust, and that's what matters. :)
No, you won't be happy with the result if you use copy paper. It's too thick and stiff. You need something thin and flexible, but strong enough to stand up to being manipulated while wet with glue. This is why rice paper is so perfect for this process. You could try tracing paper, maybe, because it's thinner, but I fear it might still be a bit too stiff. Pattern making paper, the kind seamstresses use to create clothes patterns might also work, if you could get your hands on that. But if you end up having to order something, rice paper is what you want. :) It's inexpensive and easy to find at amazon: amzn.to/2VLCpYL
I am currently binge-watching everything / spending ages on your website. Thank you for all the brilliant information! Is there a reason why you take the paper to the fabric, rather than the fabric to the paper? Due to the fabric being heavier, I would have thought it would be easier to get the paper flat and lay the fabric on top, so I'm sure there must be a reason why you do it the other way round. Can you please tell me why it's not a good idea to do it the other way round? Thank you.
Hey there! Thanks for watching! :) I have a couple of reasons that I take the paper to the fabric instead of the other way around. First, I often am doing a large enough piece of fabric that I have to use several sheets of paper to cover it, and putting the paper on top gives me the ability to continually manipulate the second and third pieces to get them to line up as perfectly as possible with the previous sheet. If I were putting the fabric on top of the paper I wouldn't be able to see what I'm doing. Secondly, the paper is flimsy enough that I fear that putting the fabric on top of it might make it wrinkle and buckle as I was putting the fabric down. Lastly, just habit. :) However, no reason that you shouldn't try it the other way around and see if it works! If you do, report back here with your results. BTW, I have recently been using Unryu paper to do this instead of Kozo. It has fibers running through it that makes it a little stronger and easier to handle when it's wet. www.dickblick.com/products/yasutomo-sumi-painting-paper-rolls/
I was thinking about your question the other day when I was making some bookcloth and I realized what is probably the best reason for doing it by putting the paper on top of the cloth -- the extra margins of the paper glue the whole contraption down to the glass, keeping it from warping as it dries, so everything dries nice and flat. So, even if you do it the other way around you'd probably still want to turn everything over and glue those paper margins down to the glass. Let me know how your experimentation works out. :)
You could try an experiment doing it that way and see if it's easier. One of the benefits of placing the glued paper on top of the cloth is so you can overlap the gluey paper edges onto the glass. As it dries, the paper glued to the glass keeps the material nice and flat. So, you'd have to apply the paper to the glued material and then apply glue around the edges of the paper to glue it to the glass to make sure everything dries flat. (I hope that makes sense :) If you try it, let us know how it works! :))
There is a good way that makes it easier to deal with the wet paper. Put it on a wet, very thin plastic sheet,a little bigger than the paper. Put on the paste. Then catch and move easily the plastic sheet, which is under the paste paper, on the fabric.
Just found this video... I'm curious though, other tutorials show using something like adhesive interfacing as the backing for the book cloth. What are the advantages of backing book cloth with paper, rather than interfacing?
Interfacing would make the bookcloth thicker and stiffer than rice paper, so harder to work with and bulkier on areas like corners where you have multiple layers of cloth. More importantly, though, the adhesive on the self-stick interfacing isn't Ph neutral, so it isn't archival. Wheat paste is. So, if you're concerned about your project lasting through the years, keeping everything archival is important.
Very good and thank you but doesn't the wheat paste end up attracting weevils and beetles and worms and other crawly insects looking for a place to lay their eggs?
No, I have never had a problem with insects of any kind after years of using wheat paste for my bookcloth. But you can add a small amount of copper sulphate to your paste as a bug deterrent if you're really concerned about it. You can find this quite cheap on amazon: amzn.to/2rCQVEM
My first thought is "No." I think you want something more absorbent. However, having said that, I'm all about experimentation. :) Try it on a small sample and see if it works. Let us know. :)
Hi Maria - thanks for the kind words. :) With regard to your question about using starch for this process, while having not tried it, I think it might not work - for two reasons. First, although it will stiffen the fabric, I don't think it will seal it sufficiently to keep the PVA glue, which you will use later to adhere the fabric to bookboard, from seeping through the weave of the fabric. Second, as soon as you apply PVA glue, which is water based, to the starched fabric it will immediately break down the starch and the fabric will become limp, just as it would if you wet it. However, having said that, I'm all about experimentation :) so I think you should try it on a test piece of fabric and then try to apply it to bookboard with PVA, and see what happens! And then let us know. :)
Thanks for the video :) ive been struggling to find kozo paper in the UK, are there any other similar papers that can be used? Also, can wheat paste then be used to stick the finished bookcloth to the book covers, rather than pva glue? I'm trying to find other more environmentally friendly ways to make my books and minimise plastics (pva etc) thanks :)
Any lightweight Japanese rice paper would work for this process. You can of course order it online (amazon) but I'd think that UK art stores would carry some sort of Japanese rice paper? You could also use a heavy tissue paper, like the kind that clothing pattern makers use, or try the kind you'd use when wrapping presents. (I'm not sure about the archival nature of those, which is one reason I like to use rice paper.) As far as the glue goes, you really can't use paste to adhere the bookcloth to the bookboard. The thing that makes paste awesome for backing paper - the fact that it's completely reversible/removable with water - makes it totally inappropriate for the sort of permanence you want when you construct your cover. If you used paste for that process your book would completely fall apart if it got even a little damp.
I don't have a good answer for that. You want something thin but strong, so it will stand up to being handled while wet. Rice paper is perfect for that, but I don't have a good suggestion for a replacement. 🤷
Thanks! :) Yes, copy paper would be too thick. (Plus, if it matters to you, it wouldn't be archival - PH neutral.) You could use tissue paper, like the kind that they use to make dress patterns, or maybe even try tracing paper, which you could probably get at any craft store. Rice paper is really the best for this, though, because it is light and strong when it's wet. It's also cheap and easy to get from amazon: amzn.to/2VLCpYL
Thanks, Vicki. :) No, I don't do anything at all to the fabric except spray it with a little water so it will stick to the glass while I apply the backing paper. That's it. :)
Hallo, great and very helpful video. Can one velvet fabric directly as a book cloth or should one do this to velvet cloth as well to make it suitable for book binding?
Hi Adya - I've never tried velvet but I'd think it would be prone to the same problems as any other cloth. The glue would be able to seep through the weave, and if that happens it would be ruined in those areas. Velvet would look particularly bad if that happened since the pile would get matted down. But, you can always try a little scrap piece first, and see how tight the weave of the fabric is. Be sure to test your scrap under real circumstances, by pressing it down firmly to a piece of bookboard. That's when the glue oozing through is likely to happen.
A tip -- for the elegant effects that velvet gives .. (and very soft leathers) use quilting and embroidery methods to secure the fine delicate fabrics, to an under fabric .. which is stiffened as above.. a layer of batting such as for quilting.. should be used. I have also seen a leather edge binding glued (around the outter edges of the boards) with a cloth ribbon affixed under its edges,.. Then a padded fabric covering is stitched to the ribbon - abutting the hemmed edge of the fine fabric, to the edge of the leather, so that no part of the ribbon is exposed.. Very elegant work.
I use my quilting fabric all of the time for this - it works great! The only fabric that I ever had trouble with was an outdoor fabric that I think had been treated with something to protect it from the weather. It also protected it from my glue. lol!
would paper towels be a good alternative to the kozo paper? I think that the paper is not as easy to find in my country. If it would be a good alternative would applying it be the same as applying the kozo i your video?
I personally wouldn't use paper towels for this process. I'm not sure it would even work logistically, although that's something you could find out with a couple of simple experiments. The primary reason I wouldn't use paper towels is because they are made from wood pulp which is extremely acidic - not archival at all. Backing your fabric with something like this will cause it to rot pretty quickly. If you want what you're making to last, don't do this. Rice paper is cheap and easy to find online. amzn.to/2VLCpYL
@@KristiWarrenHandmadeBooks Hi! Thanks for the reply again, I don't think I can get it from online because of the ridiculous shipping costs to my country, would "Sumi" and "Chinese Calligraphy" paper work as substitutes? the chinese paper claims to be rice paper. I also have this fairly thin copy paper that is acid free, could this work ask well? Also I remember that I have a tube of Rotring tracing paper, what're your thoughts about using this? Regards.
@@thickschmeat7560 Yes, anything that claims to be rice paper will probably work, depending on its thickness. If it's truly rice paper it is archival and also strong enough for this process. Rotring tracing paper is craft paper and not archival. The acid-free copy paper that you mention is good in that respect (archival). Is it too stiff for this process? You'll need to do a test to find out. Use a reasonable square of fabric and see how flexible it is after it all dries. Good luck! I know it's tough to find the perfect substitute! (Let us know what you discover from your experiments :))
I've never used tracing paper for this process, but it might be thin enough to work. (Something like copy paper would be too thick.) I would suggest you do a test piece on material that isn't precious to you and then test that bookcloth on a piece of bookboard. Make enough so that you can fold it over the edges of the bookboard and then make a corner, and see how it holds up to all of that manipulation.
I'm sure there's a reason, but...what if you put the fabric on the glass first? Then apply the glue to the entire fabric, making sure it's smooth. Then working outwards from the center of both the fabric and the dry paper, cover the fabric with the paper. Since the paste has already struck through to the front of the cloth, any tonal changes would b uniform. I did see something about heavy plastic being a better surface than glass. Something about it's pliability makes it less likely that the bookcloth gets destroyed when dry. I may have seen this dry paper on wet fabric technique somewhere. I just think that for me that fiddly, wet, thin sheet of paper is a disaster waiting to happen. 😲
I always say "Experiment!" That's how to find a technique that works for you. This one works for me, every time. I have used my plastic cutting mat as a surface for very large pieces of bookcloth (see my video here: ua-cam.com/video/LjsNLEJwvo0/v-deo.html at about 2:42), but if you use something pliable like that, be sure to weight the edges so it doesn't curl up, which it will do as the cloth/paper combo dry. Letting it just curl will ruin it. And yes, the wet paper is a bit awkward the first time or two, but you'll get the hang of it quickly, and the wet, gluey paper is surprisingly forgiving, allowing you to reposition until it's just right. But regardless, try everything and find the technique that works for you.
@@KristiWarrenHandmadeBooks Hi I made samples. One of them I did the way you did it in the video, with putting the paste on the paper and then lifting it onto the fabric. It was fiddly, but not as bad as I thought. Not great in terms of my handling it, but it was my first try. With the other one, I sprayed a lot of water onto the muslin first. Then I dropped a whole dollop of paste onto the fabric and smooshed it around. I positioned the paper on top of the fabric, adding more glue and kept smoothing it. The bone folder came in really handy to get an even level of paste. They're not totally dry yet, but one looks really good, the other one where I added the paper with the glue, dried but it's buckled. I don't think I put enough glue on the paper. So we'll see. The issue also might be the different weights of paper. Also I couldn't find any heavy plastic. I wound up using a PVC sheeting, Duralast. It was around. I think it's a hardware thing but I'm not sure what the original purpose of it. It's smooth and I don't mind scratching it up Anyway this has been fun. Thank you and I count it as a success!
If I'm making it during the daytime and it's nice outside I will sometimes put it out in the sun to dry. However, I have occasionally had a side pop off the glass and then it ends up drying weird. I think it's because one side might be a little thin on paper or glue, so it dries too fast. Letting it dry more slowly always works. :)
Do you have any tips on maintaining a blade to cut fabric more cleanly? Other than chipping off the dull part of a pen knife and replacing the blade, I always found trouble making clean cuts with blades on fabric. I usually resort to using cloth chalk and cloth scissors T_T Maybe the fabric I'm using is silk (the cheap kind, not the kind people freeze in rivers for smoothing out all day), it frays easily and has more thread on its underside...but it's so pretty...
I am a big fan of single edged (safety) razor blades. I buy them in boxes of a hundred and use them for every kind of cutting I do. They are so cheap that I throw them away when they are dull, instead of trying to get more mileage out of them like you would with an X-acto blade or utility knife. I hate a dull blade. :) You also need a good metal ruler to cut against, if you are trying to get perfect dimensions.
Do you ever have problems with critters/insects when you use wheat paste? I'm using cake flour, which I was told had the least amount of gluten, but I use it A LOT and I don't want to run into problems down the road.
Hi Kathy - No, I have never had any problem with insects eating my books. That may have something to do with where I live (Northern California) which is very dry. There may be more problems with insects in more humid climates, or if you store your books in a damp basement. However, I think that the bugs most likely to be interested in books (silverfish, book lice, roaches) are also interested in the paper, so if you had an infestation it probably wouldn't be just about the paste. :) But, to be on the safe side you can add a small amount of copper sulphate to your paste as a bug deterrent if you're really concerned about it. You can find this quite cheap on amazon: amzn.to/2rCQVEM
@@KristiWarrenHandmadeBooks I put a small amount of vinegar in the paste, which I read somewhere would help it last a bit longer, but I'll try the copper sulfate too.
I've never really timed it - I usually let it dry over night but if I'm in a hurry and want to use it the same day, I put it out in the sun to dry. Then it dries thoroughly in a couple hours. Yes, I have several of those glass shelves so I can make more bookcloth at once.
Yesss. I was having trouble finding wheat starch at our local grocery store, good to know that cornstarch works just as well! Thank you for the help :DD
@@lastyoungrenegade969 When I say wheat flour I'm just referring to plain old all-purpose flour (like Gold Medal flour). Your grocery store probably has that. :) I say "wheat" flour just to distinguish it from rice flour or almond flour, etc, although you can make paste from those, as well. I think that confuses a lot of people, and I'm sorry now that I didn't just say "white" flour in the video, because that's probably how people think of that generic flour. Anyway, you can make paste from almost any kind of starch. :))
Hi Linda - yes, you can use rice glue instead. You can also buy or make wheat starch paste. Wheat starch is wheat flour with the gluten removed. Making it is a rather involved process but kind of fun, too. :) Wheat paste is a little stronger than rice paste, but since you will eventually be adhering your bookcloth to binder's board with something a bit stronger, like PVA glue, then the difference in strength between wheat and rice paste shouldn't matter.
Interesting question, Kathryn, and I don't know the answer. :) My initial thought was "No," that the interface would be prone to separating from the fabric over time or that whatever the adhesive is might create a barrier of some kind and not allow the PVA glue to penetrate once you go to cover bookboards with the fabric. BUT, I think it's worth an experiment to find out. I'm going to see if I have some iron-on interfacing lying around and try it. If I can lay hands on some I'll get back to you with the results. :)
I use Heat N Bond Iron on adhesive, used for placing appliques . It's glue on both sides, interfacing is a no go but this is sold by the interfacing, it works awesome!.
what is the name of the paper used for the backing? I don't see a link in the video for this. I have looked at Amazon for it and come up with Aitoh SG-B Washi Roll Shoji Gami Origami Paper, 18-Inch by 30-Feet OR..Color Mulberry Paper Roll - Korean Hanji - 색한지 u - Kozo (White) which is a mulberry paper....is either of these what you are using?
The paper I'm using is Unryu - here is the link: amzn.to/2IjucT2, but Kozo will work, as well. Really, any thin rice paper will work for this process. (Some Mulberry is a bit thicker, but it would still work.) BTW, you'll find the links to the things I'm using in my videos below the video, in the description.
PS. The reason I like to use Unryu is because it is thin but has long strong fibers throughout, which gives it a lot of strength when it is wet with paste. :)
I would like more information on the glue, if possible. I don't know what wheat paste is, so I'm kinda in the dark a little. Is it something you make ? ...or is it commercially made. No idea. =)
Yes, it's something you can make with flour and water. If you stop the video at 0:34 you can read the recipe, or go to my website: www.handmadebooksandjournals.com/create-custom-books/other-bookmaking-techniques/making-bookcloth/ and read the recipe there. It's easy to make. :)
Yes. The paper that I'm using in the video is Japanese rice paper. There are many different kinds, with many different thicknesses. For making bookcloth I like something light that has fibers (for strength) so I use Unryu for this. But, any lightweight rice paper would work just fine.
@@Brandon123456magine There are several ways that you could do that. Probably the simplest would be to use rubber stamps and permanent fabric paint. You could do this before or after you cover the book, but doing it after will give you more accurate placement. Or, you could print right on the fabric if your printer has the right kind of ink. This video will show you all the details of doing that: ua-cam.com/video/D-W8gZkmuGo/v-deo.html This would allow you to create complex designs, including text, on your computer and then you could print them on your prepared paper.
When you skip the step of lining your fabric with paper and just glue it right to the bookboard (with PVA) the glue often seeps through the weave of the fabric. If you don't get it off immediately it will dry permanently on the front of your cover fabric, ruining it. The same thing would happen if you used PVA to glue the lining paper to the fabric. If this same thing were to happen when using wheat paste, even after it dries it's reversible with just water, so you could clean it up after the fact, even after it dries, without it ruining your fabric. The only reason I don't use wheat paste to glue the fabric right to the bookboard (without the liner paper) is because I think the PVA is stronger, and at that point I want the permanence and the water barrier I get with PVA that I don't get with wheat paste. If you're really careful and vigilant with the PVA when gluing the paper to the fabric, you could probably get away with it. If you try it, report back with the results. :)
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for keeping this short and succinct. I’m so tired of watching chatty how-to videos that take forever to get to the actual task at hand.
I'm so happy I found your channel! This is amazing and your clear instructions give me the confidence to do it.
Thank you, Sharon! :)
Years later and this video is still GOLD! Thank you for sharing.
I love you! 😘
I keep trying other methods of doing this ~but I keep coming back to this one ~ this method cannot be beaten!!❤
Thank you so much for this. I'm new to this particular craft but was already frustrated at not being able to use the huge amount of material left over from dressmaking as cover material!! Woo hoo!!!
This opens up a lot of possibilities. Thank you.
1:49 My kingdom for a spray bottle that works like a spray bottle. Most of them spit large drops or fail to mist at all. Now that I've got that off my chest, 😃 thank you so much for such clear instructions and a great video all round. Very very useful.
I know exactly what you mean about those spitting spray bottles! I struggled with that forever until I started buying spray bottles at Home Depot! They always work, and they work forever!
@@KristiWarrenHandmadeBooks I am not alone in my quest then. Thank you for the info! 😁
Very nice and clear video.
Thank you so much. I do make my own bookcloth but never thought to do the kuzo in pieces. So much easier.
It took me a few times of fumbling with a big wet piece of rice paper, ending up with a giant gluey mess, before trying it in separate pieces. :)
Love this. Very clear instructions and hints for avoiding mistakes. Found your website brilliant too. Thanks.
Thank you! :)
My favourite part of your video is the way you worked on glass and thus minimize waste, this is definitely something I'll be copying!
Those glass shelves are super cheap at Ikea, and very heavy-duty! 5$ each! www.ikea.com/us/en/p/besta-glass-shelf-glass-60295532/ You can get longer ones 2 for $24. www.ikea.com/us/en/p/utrusta-shelf-glass-80265609/
You are one of the rare. youtubers who didn't request for subscribing 😃. But i subsribed anyway. Great vedeo.
:-)) Thank you!
Thank you for the clarification right away about the flour used. I was going to,go get wheat flour
🙂 I say wheat flour in the video to distinguish it from other kinds of flour, like rice flour. (You can make flour from all kinds of grain.) I didn't realize until after I made the video that that was confusing people, since we think of "white" bread and "wheat" bread as different things, even though they're both made from wheat flour. So, sorry for the confusion, and you're welcome for the clarification. 😃
I'm so glad I don't need to use HeatN-Bond for this. I'm researching because I'm trying to get into bookbinding and couldn't find any video explaining making bookcloth using only wheat paste. This will make it much easier, cheaper, and more sustainable!
Yes, wheat paste is the only way to go here. This is an old video, and my biggest regret with it is that I even briefly mentioned PVA glue, which should never be used for this process. I don't know what I was thinking... lol!
Thank you for this.
this is so perfect! I've been trying to glue fabric to books I'm up cycling....and, it's quite a bother, as the fabric will pull and try to stretch, not just be FLAT. I have some fabulous fabrics that I love to use rather than paper, but was really having a hard time with both glue coming through and stability of the fabric!
This is definitely the secret. Buy some cheapo rice paper, whip up some wheat paste, and you're in business!
I JUST made a video on making wheat paste - here: ua-cam.com/video/S8GgyCdC2a8/v-deo.html
Excellent video, thanks! I've made several attempts at this process, and my cloth ends up all puckered, not lying flat like yours. Do you have any advice for avoiding this? I believe I've followed your instructions pretty closely.
Make *sure* that your rice paper is larger than the cloth you are covering, and that the rice paper sticks to the glass all the way around the edges. Let it dry completely. This should ensure that it dries perfectly flat. If you have even one edge of the rice paper that isn't large enough to stick to the glass, your cloth will end up puckered.
I found a 4lb. box of wheat paste Wallcovering Adhesive at a thrift store for 1.50$! I figured I could use it in my journal making at some point and now this confirms it. I'm so glad I found this video. I have so many fabrics I love, but only have a small bit of and now I can enjoy them even more so.
I love this tutorial because it lays out this method really well, so thank you, Kristi! ☺ But DON'T be stupid like me--WASH your fabric first!! My cotton fabric quarters from JoAnn's came with some sort of barely noticeable, moisture-resistant coating. I kept getting buckled/warped paper! This might only be true if you're using plexiglass (plastic) instead of real glass. I think wet stuff sticks to real glass better. Hope this helps someone!
Hi! Useful video! I'm new to this world, can you tell me why you don't use the PVA glue?
When you skip the step of lining your fabric with paper and just glue it right to the bookboard (with PVA) the glue often seeps through the weave of the fabric. If you don't get it off immediately it will dry permanently on the front of your cover fabric, leaving shiny spots and ruining it. ( I think I show this bad result right at the beginning of the video.)
This very same thing would happen if you used PVA to adhere the lining paper to the fabric - it would seep through and ruin the front side of the fabric. However, if this same thing were to happen when using wheat paste, even after it dries it's reversible with just water, so you could clean it up after the fact, even after it dries, without it ruining your fabric.
The only reason I don't use wheat paste to glue the fabric right to the bookboard (without the liner paper) is because the PVA is stronger, and at that point I want the permanence and the water barrier I get with PVA that I don't get with wheat paste.
Thanks for sharing. Great video.
thank you
fantastic and well presented, informative. thanks for sharing
Thank you! :)
This is the best method, thanks!
This is a wonderful tutorial and I'm grateful you share your knowledge and experience. Is regular all purpose flour the same as wheat flour? Thanks Diane
Thank you :) Yes, just the generic all-purpose flour is what I use. I specify wheat flour just to distinguish it from other flours, like rice flour and almond flour (although you can make paste from those, as well).
you saved my ass! Thank you so much, Bondaweb was getting expensive!
Thanks for this very informative video. I just did a test piece with cotton, and it looks good. My question is: - What do you think about using Polyester? I have old trousers, and the material (Polyester), is in good condition still. It would be nice to recycle it.
Outstanding method!
Thanks! :)
Thanks!
Thank you for such a great video. Could you please suggest 2 or 3 other backing papers for us? Thank you for sharing
Unfortunately I don't have too many alternatives to the rice paper that I mention, which is perfect for this. Kraft paper and copy paper won't work because they're too thick. You could try tracing paper, maybe, because it's thinner, but I fear it might still be a bit too stiff. (Worth experimenting with, though.) Pattern making paper, the kind seamstresses use to create clothes patterns might also work, if you could get your hands on that. But, if you end up having to order something, rice paper is what you want. :) It's inexpensive and easy to find at amazon: amzn.to/2VLCpYL
Your videos are great! Thank you!
Thank you!
@@KristiWarrenHandmadeBooks , Where can I find the "rice" paper that is best for this? Thanks in advance.
@@jenajohnson3642 Hi Jena - this is the rice paper I use:ua-cam.com/video/ph1GU1qQ1zQ/v-deo.html
You can see a list of links to some of the other supplies I use in the description immediately under the video. Just click on "Show More" to see all of them.
Let me know if you have any other questions! :)
Thanks for this video - clear and concise while covering potential problems with no unnecessary flim flam! I have one question - is silk suitable for this technique and have you or anyone else tried it? Cheers!
Hi Carl - I haven't tried this with silk, so I don't know what the outcome would be. I'd suggest trying it on a smallish piece first. Just do a test while you're making other bookcloth so it won't take any special effort. I learned to test material the hard way. I made several sheets of bookcloth with a material that was meant for outdoor use, and discovered much too late that whatever they treat the material with to weatherize it also made it impossible to use as bookcloth. Nothing would stay glued to anything. LOL. Anyway, test, and then let us know!
@@KristiWarrenHandmadeBooks Thanks for the reply - and the advice! I don't have any silk to hand so I've ordered a 4x4" sample, and I'll report back at some point, Cheerio, Carl.
Great video. Just curious I have tracing paper would that work?
My first inclination is to say probably not, I think tracing paper isn't strong enough to stand up to the process. However, I am always one to experiment, so I'd suggest trying it on a test piece to see what happens. Make it a largish test so you can see how a fairly big piece of tracing paper will handle when covered with paste and being moved to a piece of fabric. If you do experiment, let us know how it goes. :)
Heat n' bond and tissue paper work easy too.
This certainly could work. I don't use it because I'm fairly certain the adhesive used on Heat'nBond is not acid free and therefore not archival. I try to use only archival materials on the books I make. Just my preference.
@@KristiWarrenHandmadeBooks I believe you are correct about heat n' bond not being archival.
Thank you Krisit! I'm learning so much from your tutorials! I have a question about the rice paper. I have a large roll of it left over from my sumi-e painting and it has a smooth side and a rough side. Which side do you put the paste on? Thank you in advance for your reply.
Thank you, Gail! :) It really doesn't matter which side you put the paste on. I guess if I had a gun to my head I'd say put the paste on the smooth side. No, wait... the rough side! Lol. Seriously, it doesn't matter, but I'd probably paste the rough side, thinking it might have a little better adhesion to the fabric. :))
@@KristiWarrenHandmadeBooks Thank you for this reply. I just did make up some paste--from gluten free flour, added some clove oil--I like the smell--and when I watched your video, I noticed the paper came off the roll, and you put it "curved side down" which off my roll, was the smooth side, so I went with that and put the paste on the rough side. Then I get your reply. LOL! So I made a mistake and got it right. Love it when I do that. But it's good to know it doesn't really matter and I hope that gun was only loaded with water. ;-) Now to go find some glass panels laying around this old farmstead. I had a piece of plexiglass I did my test piece on. It's in process of drying as I type. Can I hang it up in the sun to hasten the drying?
@@gailsawyer4235 Yes, I put mine out on a table in the sun to dry when I'm in a hurry. I usually lay them flat just in case they want to pop off, although I've never had that happen. They adhere to glass pretty firmly - I imagine they would to plexiglass, as well. :)
Great video but I don't know how you do it! I have tried several times with both starch paste and methyl cellulose paste, both on glass, acrylic sheet and board and the book cloth turns out so stiff it can stand on its side. After cutting it off it curls up in a tight little roll all buckly and so stiff it’s almost impossible to straighten it out. How I will ever manage to glue it on book board is beyond me... Any suggestions?
I am using Chinese mulberry paper (Wenzhou) as backing paper, the only paper similar to Japanese kozo or unryu I can find here. The paper is quite thin, 30 gsm and is not super strong unfortunately. But it’s the best I can come up with, tried others.
Wow, I wish I could help, but I really can't think what might be causing that! My first thought was that it was the backing paper, but as you go on to describe it, it seems like what you are using shouldn't cause that. I guess my only semi-helpful suggestion would be to try changing what you haven't already changed, and that would include that backing paper. Can you order a roll of Unryu online? amzn.to/2VLCpYL Also, try some different fabric, if you haven't already. Maybe make a batch of paste from plain kitchen flour? Crazy result. Keep me posted on your continuing experiments - I'm very interested to discover what is causing this!
Thank you this is very helpful! I tried making my first attempt today. However, air bubbles formed. Is it normal? or do you have any solution to get rid of it?
I use a rubber roller (brayer) and start lightly rolling from the center of the rice paper to the edges, pushing any air bubbles or pockets of paste out. I then finish it off with a large soft brush, brushing from the center out. This combo usually gets rid of all air bubbles. Don't push too hard with the brayer as this will push paste through the weave of your fabric. You can wash it off later since it's water soluble when dry (the whole reason for using paste for this step :) ) but it's just an extra nuisance that I prefer to avoid. :)
Nice tutorial. Since the rice paper is so hard to handle, is there any reason why one couldn't place the fabric on top of it, rather than wrangle the rice paper? I"m new at this, so maybe I'm missing something; just curious. Thanks for a great video. ~ Lisa
I do that with smaller fabrics but you still have to turn it around because the rice paper has to be wider than the cloth so that it adheres to the surface keeping everything from curling up as it dries.
Very helpful video!
How long should I let this dry for? Also does it matter what side of the rice paper I put the glue on? I noticed one side is rougher than the other.
Thank you!
I always let mine dry overnight, but you can speed the process up by putting it out in the sun. Don't try to remove the bookcloth from the glass if it's even slightly damp, though. It will curl and warp and the result will be very unsatisfying. :)
It doesn't really matter which side of the rice paper you use. I'm always changing my mind - rough side up, rough side down - and it never seems to matter at all.
WOW~💖~THANK YOU SO MUCH ~NOW I CAN DO IT
That was a neat flawless demo. Thanks so much. But please tell me if I use heavier cloth for binding is this backing paper exercise still needed?
It really depends on the fabric. If it's heavy but has a fairly open weave, the PVA glue will still possibly seep through to the front and ruin it. Also, one reason to back it with paper is to stabilize it and keep it from stretching in odd ways as you are pulling it around your bookboard. If you have a fabric that you think might work without backing it I'd suggest doing a test run first with a small piece of bookboard. Apply the glue and pull it around the edge of the bookboard as if it were the real thing and see if it stretches in funny ways or if glue seeps through. If it does either of those things, you should probably apply the backing. :)
I was given some bookcloth by a commercial bookbinder that did not have any backing. He told me to apply the PVA to the board rather than the cloth. It's a fairly heavy fabric and his suggestion worked very well.
I've just come across your videos, looking forward to exploring them.
This is a useful video. I have been using fresh thick cotton cloth, sometimes old denim fabric, directly for book binding and covers. Your method would be quite useful with thin fabrics. But I am not sure we get this kind of paper in India.
I make my own wheat (maida) paste. I add a few drops of ink to repel any insects. But for sticking cloth to board, I use Fevicol MR, a white synthetic adhesive that is readily available. This does not show/seep through the fabric. I have bound more than 100 books with good results.
Thanks for the info! In general I always say use whatever works. :) However, one of my personal criteria for the materials I use is that they are archival, and PVA glue is (as is the wheat paste used in this video).
Craft adhesives like ModPodge, Elmers, Tacky Glue, and Fevicol MR don't say explicitly that they are archival (which PVA glue does) so I go on the assumption that they are not archival. If they were they'd say, because it's a big selling point.
That's why most bookmakers use PVA glue, but as I said, use whatever works for you! :)
@@KristiWarrenHandmadeBooks Thank you for the information on archival quality of the adhesive. This is new to me. PVA glue is not easy to get here in India; it is too costly online. But I will keep this in mind.
So what do u use maida paste for if you are directly putting fabric on book board? (for R nanjappa)
Thanks for the comment. Wat kind of fabric wud you yse? Will banian kind of fabric be good... They tend to stretch... And Wat kind of paper u use?? For backing the fabric.. I live in India too... N i don think i wud get the paper that's mentioned either... Kindly reply
@@lydiasabina I use mainly thick handloom cotton cloth, old denim fabric, or cotton- polyester blend if it is thick (like suit material). Banian fabric is strict no-no. I do not use paper to back the cloth, as I use the fabric directly on board.
I was wondering, if as a bookbinder you have ever considered experimenting with the thermal plasticity (reactivation of adhesiveness by heat) of PVA adhesives?
As a now retired custom furniture maker, I often had to work with numerous exotic wood veneers to meet various client requests. The ‘traditional’ method was to use hot hide glue with a brass edged veneer ‘hammer’, which is messy, time consuming and sometimes the results are quite unpredictable.
In the late 1990s I learned a technique employed by furniture maker Frank Pollaro (arguably now the highest paid furniture maker in the world). It involved very lightly dampening the face of the veneer, taping it to the workbench with gummed paper veneer tape and applying one or two even coats of high quality PVA to the underside of the veneer. This was then allowed to dry.
The veneer could then be positioned on the substrate, and working from the centre outward to the edges, it was simply ironed down slowly using a household iron set to cotton/ linen. I used this technique on dozens of different species of wood, including highly figured and irregularly grained, book matched veneers. I never had any problems either with a variety of finishes I used regularly, or had any veneer lift off (after almost two decades now).
I have experimented with this technique since 2014 for backing my own book cloth with Kozo or other Japanese rice papers on a variety of cotton and linen fabric weights.
I apply the PVA to the backing paper, which I tape to a scrap board of MDF. I have used both a brush and a roller for even glue application centre to edges. I use a thin second coat of PVA only on heavier or textured fabrics. I haven’t had any instances of bleed through into the outer surface of fabric thus far.
It seems to me this is exactly the same as using an iron-on interfacing to back cloth for covers. Incidentally, the fabric on the first book cover I made with this technique is still completely secure.
I would be curious to hear your comments.
I know that this is a different project, however I use this technique for gluing napkins on to paper. It works great and doesn’t leave bubbles
Hi William - It sounds like you have a very workable process for creating your own bookcloth. It sounds a bit more complex than the process I use but, like any process, the more you do it the easier it gets, I'm sure. I'm curious how stiff the bookcloth is once everything is adhered together? I know that PVA glue is flexible, but it does dry stiffer than paste, which remains *very* flexible while still giving body to the cloth, stabilizing it. Regardless, sounds like you have a process you like and trust, and that's what matters. :)
A very good tutorial... May i use copy. Paper??
No, you won't be happy with the result if you use copy paper. It's too thick and stiff. You need something thin and flexible, but strong enough to stand up to being manipulated while wet with glue. This is why rice paper is so perfect for this process. You could try tracing paper, maybe, because it's thinner, but I fear it might still be a bit too stiff. Pattern making paper, the kind seamstresses use to create clothes patterns might also work, if you could get your hands on that. But if you end up having to order something, rice paper is what you want. :) It's inexpensive and easy to find at amazon: amzn.to/2VLCpYL
@@KristiWarrenHandmadeBooks thank you
I am currently binge-watching everything / spending ages on your website. Thank you for all the brilliant information! Is there a reason why you take the paper to the fabric, rather than the fabric to the paper? Due to the fabric being heavier, I would have thought it would be easier to get the paper flat and lay the fabric on top, so I'm sure there must be a reason why you do it the other way round. Can you please tell me why it's not a good idea to do it the other way round? Thank you.
Hey there! Thanks for watching! :) I have a couple of reasons that I take the paper to the fabric instead of the other way around. First, I often am doing a large enough piece of fabric that I have to use several sheets of paper to cover it, and putting the paper on top gives me the ability to continually manipulate the second and third pieces to get them to line up as perfectly as possible with the previous sheet. If I were putting the fabric on top of the paper I wouldn't be able to see what I'm doing.
Secondly, the paper is flimsy enough that I fear that putting the fabric on top of it might make it wrinkle and buckle as I was putting the fabric down. Lastly, just habit. :) However, no reason that you shouldn't try it the other way around and see if it works! If you do, report back here with your results.
BTW, I have recently been using Unryu paper to do this instead of Kozo. It has fibers running through it that makes it a little stronger and easier to handle when it's wet.
www.dickblick.com/products/yasutomo-sumi-painting-paper-rolls/
Thank you for that. Makes sense. I hope to give it a go in a few weeks, so I might try it both ways, and if I do, I'll let you know how I get on
I was thinking about your question the other day when I was making some bookcloth and I realized what is probably the best reason for doing it by putting the paper on top of the cloth -- the extra margins of the paper glue the whole contraption down to the glass, keeping it from warping as it dries, so everything dries nice and flat. So, even if you do it the other way around you'd probably still want to turn everything over and glue those paper margins down to the glass. Let me know how your experimentation works out. :)
Thank you! 😁
Would it be easier to paste paper in the glass and take the fabtic to the wet paper with patterned fabric side uppermost?
I don't know. The only way to find out is to experiment. :)
thanks for this! One question; what about applying the starch onto the fabric instead of the paper? To avoid having to deal with the wet paper
You could try an experiment doing it that way and see if it's easier. One of the benefits of placing the glued paper on top of the cloth is so you can overlap the gluey paper edges onto the glass. As it dries, the paper glued to the glass keeps the material nice and flat. So, you'd have to apply the paper to the glued material and then apply glue around the edges of the paper to glue it to the glass to make sure everything dries flat. (I hope that makes sense :) If you try it, let us know how it works! :))
There is a good way that makes it easier to deal with the wet paper. Put it on a wet, very thin plastic sheet,a little bigger than the paper. Put on the paste. Then catch and move easily the plastic sheet, which is under the paste paper, on the fabric.
Just found this video... I'm curious though, other tutorials show using something like adhesive interfacing as the backing for the book cloth. What are the advantages of backing book cloth with paper, rather than interfacing?
Interfacing would make the bookcloth thicker and stiffer than rice paper, so harder to work with and bulkier on areas like corners where you have multiple layers of cloth. More importantly, though, the adhesive on the self-stick interfacing isn't Ph neutral, so it isn't archival. Wheat paste is. So, if you're concerned about your project lasting through the years, keeping everything archival is important.
Very good and thank you but doesn't the wheat paste end up attracting weevils and beetles and worms and other crawly insects looking for a place to lay their eggs?
No, I have never had a problem with insects of any kind after years of using wheat paste for my bookcloth. But you can add a small amount of copper sulphate to your paste as a bug deterrent if you're really concerned about it. You can find this quite cheap on amazon: amzn.to/2rCQVEM
could the backing paper be baking paper? 🤔
My first thought is "No." I think you want something more absorbent. However, having said that, I'm all about experimentation. :) Try it on a small sample and see if it works. Let us know. :)
Great info. Thanks for sharing!
Great video!!! very nice explanations!! do you know if I can use the Purex Sta Flo Liquid starch instead?
Hi Maria - thanks for the kind words. :) With regard to your question about using starch for this process, while having not tried it, I think it might not work - for two reasons. First, although it will stiffen the fabric, I don't think it will seal it sufficiently to keep the PVA glue, which you will use later to adhere the fabric to bookboard, from seeping through the weave of the fabric. Second, as soon as you apply PVA glue, which is water based, to the starched fabric it will immediately break down the starch and the fabric will become limp, just as it would if you wet it.
However, having said that, I'm all about experimentation :) so I think you should try it on a test piece of fabric and then try to apply it to bookboard with PVA, and see what happens! And then let us know. :)
Thanks for the video :) ive been struggling to find kozo paper in the UK, are there any other similar papers that can be used? Also, can wheat paste then be used to stick the finished bookcloth to the book covers, rather than pva glue? I'm trying to find other more environmentally friendly ways to make my books and minimise plastics (pva etc) thanks :)
Any lightweight Japanese rice paper would work for this process. You can of course order it online (amazon) but I'd think that UK art stores would carry some sort of Japanese rice paper? You could also use a heavy tissue paper, like the kind that clothing pattern makers use, or try the kind you'd use when wrapping presents. (I'm not sure about the archival nature of those, which is one reason I like to use rice paper.)
As far as the glue goes, you really can't use paste to adhere the bookcloth to the bookboard. The thing that makes paste awesome for backing paper - the fact that it's completely reversible/removable with water - makes it totally inappropriate for the sort of permanence you want when you construct your cover. If you used paste for that process your book would completely fall apart if it got even a little damp.
What would be a suitable alternative to Rice paper?
I don't have a good answer for that. You want something thin but strong, so it will stand up to being handled while wet. Rice paper is perfect for that, but I don't have a good suggestion for a replacement. 🤷
Thank you so much.
How thick is the backing paper? Is regular copy paper too thick? I really liked your clear instructions and demo!
Thanks! :) Yes, copy paper would be too thick. (Plus, if it matters to you, it wouldn't be archival - PH neutral.) You could use tissue paper, like the kind that they use to make dress patterns, or maybe even try tracing paper, which you could probably get at any craft store. Rice paper is really the best for this, though, because it is light and strong when it's wet. It's also cheap and easy to get from amazon: amzn.to/2VLCpYL
Hi really good video, but silly question what is backing paper ?
I use rice paper. It is cheap, light, archival and durable. Here's a good source for it: amzn.to/2VLCpYL
Do you treat the fabric (starch, sizing, iron... whatever) before you apply the backing paper? Excellent video! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks, Vicki. :) No, I don't do anything at all to the fabric except spray it with a little water so it will stick to the glass while I apply the backing paper. That's it. :)
Hallo, great and very helpful video. Can one velvet fabric directly as a book cloth or should one do this to velvet cloth as well to make it suitable for book binding?
Hi Adya - I've never tried velvet but I'd think it would be prone to the same problems as any other cloth. The glue would be able to seep through the weave, and if that happens it would be ruined in those areas. Velvet would look particularly bad if that happened since the pile would get matted down. But, you can always try a little scrap piece first, and see how tight the weave of the fabric is. Be sure to test your scrap under real circumstances, by pressing it down firmly to a piece of bookboard. That's when the glue oozing through is likely to happen.
A tip -- for the elegant effects that velvet gives .. (and very soft leathers) use quilting and embroidery methods to secure the fine delicate fabrics, to an under fabric .. which is stiffened as above.. a layer of batting such as for quilting.. should be used.
I have also seen a leather edge binding glued (around the outter edges of the boards) with a cloth ribbon affixed under its edges,.. Then a padded fabric covering is stitched to the ribbon - abutting the hemmed edge of the fine fabric, to the edge of the leather, so that no part of the ribbon is exposed..
Very elegant work.
@@brierobb9879 Great suggestions! I am also a quilter so the first suggestion is particularly interesting. :)
Brie Robb ty for tip!
Do you happen to know if high quality quilting fabric would work or is it necessary to use home dec weight fabrics?
I use my quilting fabric all of the time for this - it works great! The only fabric that I ever had trouble with was an outdoor fabric that I think had been treated with something to protect it from the weather. It also protected it from my glue. lol!
Is it possible to use silk paper instead of rice paper ?
I don't know -- maybe? The best way to find out is to do a test. :)
would paper towels be a good alternative to the kozo paper? I think that the paper is not as easy to find in my country. If it would be a good alternative would applying it be the same as applying the kozo i your video?
I personally wouldn't use paper towels for this process. I'm not sure it would even work logistically, although that's something you could find out with a couple of simple experiments. The primary reason I wouldn't use paper towels is because they are made from wood pulp which is extremely acidic - not archival at all. Backing your fabric with something like this will cause it to rot pretty quickly. If you want what you're making to last, don't do this. Rice paper is cheap and easy to find online. amzn.to/2VLCpYL
@@KristiWarrenHandmadeBooks Hi! Thanks for the reply again, I don't think I can get it from online because of the ridiculous shipping costs to my country, would "Sumi" and "Chinese Calligraphy" paper work as substitutes? the chinese paper claims to be rice paper. I also have this fairly thin copy paper that is acid free, could this work ask well? Also I remember that I have a tube of Rotring tracing paper, what're your thoughts about using this?
Regards.
@@thickschmeat7560 Yes, anything that claims to be rice paper will probably work, depending on its thickness. If it's truly rice paper it is archival and also strong enough for this process. Rotring tracing paper is craft paper and not archival. The acid-free copy paper that you mention is good in that respect (archival). Is it too stiff for this process? You'll need to do a test to find out. Use a reasonable square of fabric and see how flexible it is after it all dries. Good luck! I know it's tough to find the perfect substitute! (Let us know what you discover from your experiments :))
hi. Is it ok to use regular tracing paper instead of the paper you used because in my case its not available?
I've never used tracing paper for this process, but it might be thin enough to work. (Something like copy paper would be too thick.) I would suggest you do a test piece on material that isn't precious to you and then test that bookcloth on a piece of bookboard. Make enough so that you can fold it over the edges of the bookboard and then make a corner, and see how it holds up to all of that manipulation.
great tutorial thanks. :)
Tip: If using wheat paste, I always add penicillin G (benzyl penicillin) to the mixture.
Alvenh Channe Can you please tell me why you add Penicillin G and how much do you add as well as where to get hold of this product?
I'm sure there's a reason, but...what if you put the fabric on the glass first?
Then apply the glue to the entire fabric, making sure it's smooth. Then working outwards from the center of both the fabric and the dry paper, cover the fabric with the paper. Since the paste has already struck through to the front of the cloth, any tonal changes would b uniform.
I did see something about heavy plastic being a better surface than glass. Something about it's pliability makes it less likely that the bookcloth gets destroyed when dry.
I may have seen this dry paper on wet fabric technique somewhere. I just think that for me that fiddly, wet, thin sheet of paper is a disaster waiting to happen. 😲
I always say "Experiment!" That's how to find a technique that works for you. This one works for me, every time. I have used my plastic cutting mat as a surface for very large pieces of bookcloth (see my video here: ua-cam.com/video/LjsNLEJwvo0/v-deo.html at about 2:42), but if you use something pliable like that, be sure to weight the edges so it doesn't curl up, which it will do as the cloth/paper combo dry. Letting it just curl will ruin it. And yes, the wet paper is a bit awkward the first time or two, but you'll get the hang of it quickly, and the wet, gluey paper is surprisingly forgiving, allowing you to reposition until it's just right. But regardless, try everything and find the technique that works for you.
@@KristiWarrenHandmadeBooks Hi I made samples. One of them I did the way you did it in the video, with putting the paste on the paper and then lifting it onto the fabric. It was fiddly, but not as bad as I thought. Not great in terms of my handling it, but it was my first try. With the other one, I sprayed a lot of water onto the muslin first. Then I dropped a whole dollop of paste onto the fabric and smooshed it around. I positioned the paper on top of the fabric, adding more glue and kept smoothing it. The bone folder came in really handy to get an even level of paste. They're not totally dry yet, but one looks really good, the other one where I added the paper with the glue, dried but it's buckled. I don't think I put enough glue on the paper. So we'll see. The issue also might be the different weights of paper. Also I couldn't find any heavy plastic. I wound up using a PVC sheeting, Duralast. It was around. I think it's a hardware thing but I'm not sure what the original purpose of it. It's smooth and I don't mind scratching it up Anyway this has been fun. Thank you and I count it as a success!
Have you ever tried to speed up the drying time? Via hairdryer or something? Just want to know your trials and errors
If I'm making it during the daytime and it's nice outside I will sometimes put it out in the sun to dry. However, I have occasionally had a side pop off the glass and then it ends up drying weird. I think it's because one side might be a little thin on paper or glue, so it dries too fast. Letting it dry more slowly always works. :)
Do you have any tips on maintaining a blade to cut fabric more cleanly? Other than chipping off the dull part of a pen knife and replacing the blade, I always found trouble making clean cuts with blades on fabric. I usually resort to using cloth chalk and cloth scissors T_T Maybe the fabric I'm using is silk (the cheap kind, not the kind people freeze in rivers for smoothing out all day), it frays easily and has more thread on its underside...but it's so pretty...
I am a big fan of single edged (safety) razor blades. I buy them in boxes of a hundred and use them for every kind of cutting I do. They are so cheap that I throw them away when they are dull, instead of trying to get more mileage out of them like you would with an X-acto blade or utility knife. I hate a dull blade. :) You also need a good metal ruler to cut against, if you are trying to get perfect dimensions.
Do you ever have problems with critters/insects when you use wheat paste? I'm using cake flour, which I was told had the least amount of gluten, but I use it A LOT and I don't want to run into problems down the road.
Hi Kathy - No, I have never had any problem with insects eating my books. That may have something to do with where I live (Northern California) which is very dry. There may be more problems with insects in more humid climates, or if you store your books in a damp basement. However, I think that the bugs most likely to be interested in books (silverfish, book lice, roaches) are also interested in the paper, so if you had an infestation it probably wouldn't be just about the paste. :)
But, to be on the safe side you can add a small amount of copper sulphate to your paste as a bug deterrent if you're really concerned about it. You can find this quite cheap on amazon: amzn.to/2rCQVEM
@@KristiWarrenHandmadeBooks I put a small amount of vinegar in the paste, which I read somewhere would help it last a bit longer, but I'll try the copper sulfate too.
How long does it take the paste to dry? I'm thinking that you would need several glass sheets to make several bookcloths at the same time?
I've never really timed it - I usually let it dry over night but if I'm in a hurry and want to use it the same day, I put it out in the sun to dry. Then it dries thoroughly in a couple hours. Yes, I have several of those glass shelves so I can make more bookcloth at once.
Is it okay to use corn starch as a substitute to wheat starch?
Yes :)
Yesss. I was having trouble finding wheat starch at our local grocery store, good to know that cornstarch works just as well! Thank you for the help :DD
@@lastyoungrenegade969 When I say wheat flour I'm just referring to plain old all-purpose flour (like Gold Medal flour). Your grocery store probably has that. :) I say "wheat" flour just to distinguish it from rice flour or almond flour, etc, although you can make paste from those, as well. I think that confuses a lot of people, and I'm sorry now that I didn't just say "white" flour in the video, because that's probably how people think of that generic flour. Anyway, you can make paste from almost any kind of starch. :))
Question-Is it possible to use rice flour for the glue? I'm gluten intolerant and I'm looking for alternatives. Thanks.
Hi Linda - yes, you can use rice glue instead. You can also buy or make wheat starch paste. Wheat starch is wheat flour with the gluten removed. Making it is a rather involved process but kind of fun, too. :)
Wheat paste is a little stronger than rice paste, but since you will eventually be adhering your bookcloth to binder's board with something a bit stronger, like PVA glue, then the difference in strength between wheat and rice paste shouldn't matter.
Could you use iron on interfacing instead?
Interesting question, Kathryn, and I don't know the answer. :) My initial thought was "No," that the interface would be prone to separating from the fabric over time or that whatever the adhesive is might create a barrier of some kind and not allow the PVA glue to penetrate once you go to cover bookboards with the fabric.
BUT, I think it's worth an experiment to find out. I'm going to see if I have some iron-on interfacing lying around and try it. If I can lay hands on some I'll get back to you with the results. :)
I use Heat N Bond Iron on adhesive, used for placing appliques . It's glue on both sides, interfacing is a no go but this is sold by the interfacing, it works awesome!.
what is the name of the paper used for the backing? I don't see a link in the video for this. I have looked at Amazon for it and come up with Aitoh SG-B Washi Roll Shoji Gami Origami Paper, 18-Inch by 30-Feet OR..Color Mulberry Paper Roll - Korean Hanji - 색한지 u - Kozo (White) which is a mulberry paper....is either of these what you are using?
The paper I'm using is Unryu - here is the link: amzn.to/2IjucT2, but Kozo will work, as well. Really, any thin rice paper will work for this process. (Some Mulberry is a bit thicker, but it would still work.) BTW, you'll find the links to the things I'm using in my videos below the video, in the description.
PS. The reason I like to use Unryu is because it is thin but has long strong fibers throughout, which gives it a lot of strength when it is wet with paste. :)
I would like more information on the glue, if possible. I don't know what wheat paste is, so I'm kinda in the dark a little. Is it something you make ? ...or is it commercially made. No idea. =)
Yes, it's something you can make with flour and water. If you stop the video at 0:34 you can read the recipe, or go to my website:
www.handmadebooksandjournals.com/create-custom-books/other-bookmaking-techniques/making-bookcloth/
and read the recipe there. It's easy to make. :)
Oh my gosh....I'm so sorry. I don't know how I missed it. Yipes ! Thank-you. =) I'm embarrassed to say that I ran it twice and missed it twice.
Can I use japanese paper instead of backing paper?
Yes. The paper that I'm using in the video is Japanese rice paper. There are many different kinds, with many different thicknesses. For making bookcloth I like something light that has fibers (for strength) so I use Unryu for this. But, any lightweight rice paper would work just fine.
@@KristiWarrenHandmadeBooks thank you very much
@@KristiWarrenHandmadeBooks how can I make any designs and letter headings on the cloth cover itself?
@@Brandon123456magine There are several ways that you could do that. Probably the simplest would be to use rubber stamps and permanent fabric paint. You could do this before or after you cover the book, but doing it after will give you more accurate placement.
Or, you could print right on the fabric if your printer has the right kind of ink. This video will show you all the details of doing that: ua-cam.com/video/D-W8gZkmuGo/v-deo.html
This would allow you to create complex designs, including text, on your computer and then you could print them on your prepared paper.
@@KristiWarrenHandmadeBooks thank you
very helpful, thank you :-)
What would be the cons to using pva glue for this instead of wheat paste?
When you skip the step of lining your fabric with paper and just glue it right to the bookboard (with PVA) the glue often seeps through the weave of the fabric. If you don't get it off immediately it will dry permanently on the front of your cover fabric, ruining it. The same thing would happen if you used PVA to glue the lining paper to the fabric.
If this same thing were to happen when using wheat paste, even after it dries it's reversible with just water, so you could clean it up after the fact, even after it dries, without it ruining your fabric. The only reason I don't use wheat paste to glue the fabric right to the bookboard (without the liner paper) is because I think the PVA is stronger, and at that point I want the permanence and the water barrier I get with PVA that I don't get with wheat paste.
If you're really careful and vigilant with the PVA when gluing the paper to the fabric, you could probably get away with it. If you try it, report back with the results. :)
Kristi Warren that was really helpful, thank you!