1974 F350-Fabricating tail light brackets(part 2)
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- Опубліковано 14 жов 2024
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This video is going to be part 2 of the flatbed build on mounting the original tail light housings that came with the truck. They were previously mounted to the flatbed but now that its gone we need a new solution.
Should be an easy fix but I will need to fabricate some brackets so we will see what I can come up with. Along with some repair to the wiring the original harness was lengthened by 2 feet to count for the frame being longer so accommodate the 10 foot flatbed the truck had.
Im also going to give you guys a glimpse into my master plan for the trucks and channel going forward.
Nice work. I would definitely add some diagonal gussets to the brackets. On this type of truck the brackets will see a lot of vibrations and hard bouncing/jolts. That can lead to the welds cracking/breaking.
I've got a couple tips on the fab work. I'm no expert just a self taught guy that has been at it for a few decades. There really isn't any reason to just use tack welds on a bracket that thick. That looks like right around 1/8" ( 10 or 11 gauge ) . If you are using a 110V welder I like to turn the power/amperage up all the way. Then start with the wire speed/feed about half way. Take a similar piece of metal and just practice running beads on it. Don't move too fast when running the bead. Just a nice steady pace. You want to adjust the wire speed until you get a nice steady sound like frying bacon without any starting or stopping while welding. Now when you are going to weld the two pieces together on your part. I like to grind a nice angled bevel into the ends of the metal ( on at least one of the pieces ) where I'm going to weld. This does a couple things. It makes it's easier to get full penetration on thicker metal with a smaller welder. Second is it allows you to grind the metal flat after welding and not grind away most of the weld. And as far as the welding goes, get the pieces laid out the way you want them. Then just do a couple tack welds to hold things together. Then run a full weld bead all the way across the length of the joint. You can either run just a straight bead or work back and forth between the two pieces in a reverse "C" motion. That method kind of gives you the stacked dime look you get with tig welding. I like doing that method on the inside joints on parts like you bracket. I will some times run a straight bead on it, clean everything up and then do the weaving method over the top of it.
Sorry about the long comment. I really enjoy your videos and your trucks!
I appreciate the feed back! Don’t worry about the length of the comment.
I recently got a vice so on thicker pieces i will probably start adding that bevel so the welds penetrate better(previously didn’t really have anything to secure pieces down). I want to get a bench grinder to be able to do stuff like that easily.
I do need to make some time to practice. I usually just go right into what I’m trying to make. For the bracket supports I didn’t like the idea I had so I’m going to make something later
Thank you! They are coming along. I appreciate you taking the time to watch and the information.
How are you liking that Hobart? I just picked one up. I’m just getting into welding myself. It’s fun.
I like it so far. No issues besides user error with wire speed and just learning in general. It’s the 125 model, the 140 would of been nice but for as much as I use it at this time the 125 is good. It really is fun, I need to find some time to practice more.
Hey bro ,
I have a Question if I'm trying to lower my truck the same year as yours 70 F250 which tires size do you think I should go with ? .I just want to lower it 3-5 inches
Hey man,
I think it all depends on what rim size you want to go with. Personally I like some meat on the tire, not a fan of low profile tires. I’d say 18’s then a tire that has some decent size and fills the wheel well.