To everyone here - and I can't believe how many who said removing the tank is totally unnecessary, I'd say, no, you're wrong. Its a totally useful step that makes the project doable for non giants and those of us who aren't 180 lbs of muscle. I definitely appreciate how descriptive this UA-camr is in giving helpful instructions for non-plumbers, which is what the video is for.
A cooi trick i learned is cut a plastic drinking straw in half and place each half on the flange bolts. That makes it super easy to guide the bolts through the mounting holes on the toilet base. Once its set in place just pull the straws off and install the washers and nuts🤙👍
I’ve watched quite a few videos on this and this is the first one to recommend pulling the tank, then the toilet. This makes a lot of sense, especially when using a wax seal. The wax is unforgiving and if you shift the toilet too much as you’re installing it the wax can deform and obstruct the flange drain. It’s much easier to lower the fixture straight down onto the seal and align the bolts the first time without the weight and bulk of the tank on it. Then with the new tank bolts you’ve eliminated any problems there as well. Good video!
@@AdamBlankenship-x3z I’ve seen a few where they just lift the whole thing off to save time. Once you disconnect the water line, all you have to do is remove the two flange bolts at the base and the whole thing will lift off together. I think it’s usually guys that are on the clock. Sorry, it’s been awhile so I don’t remember the videos where I saw it.
Thank you for posting this DIY video. As a first time home owner who was never taught how to fix things around the house, I was able to use your video as a tutorial to replace the wax ring seal on a rocking toilet.
You’re a brave man 😎 I always put a big rag or crumpled newspaper down in the drop pipe just in case I drop one of my tools. If I don’t do it I’m sure to drop a wrench or socket down there.
I just replaced our leaky wax seal with a Fluidmaster. It took an hour remove the wax leftovers, but only 15 minutes to install the Fluidmaster - including reading the instructions. Happily, no leaks. I also have now learned how to double up on Fluidmasters if the flange underneath is way below floor level. Thank you! Subscribed.
Yeah, Fluidmaster was very deceptive in their product box design. The outside of the box said it would fit any flange, any height. Nowhere does it say that you might need to purchase a second seal until you get home, open it up and read the instructions.
The rubber seal is far more forgiving than the wax and I'd recommend it for beginners over the wax. The problem with the wax is it's single use and you have to get it right the first time or it'll leak. The last time I changed a toilet, it was kind of an awkward and heavy one so I goofed setting it down on the wax and when I went to readjust it and test it, it leaked. There was no fixing the wax seal. I had to go to the hardware store again and this time I got a rubber seal. Although I did goof up again setting it down on the seal, readjusting it got it down perfectly and it hasn't leaked since.
Yes, you so right. You can read my comment above. I had to reseat it a few times, and it sure messes up the wax. And, now, it is not flushing as well, so I think the wax ring squished into the sewer drain part. Anyway, I'm glad this guy made a video. I can't wait to move to the plastic one.
When attaching bolts to porcellin always use a rubber washer between the porcellin and the metal washer to avoid cracking the porcellin fixture. Do not overtighten.
Yes always press the toilet tight to the floor then tighten. Those bolts aren't technically for bolting the toilet down rather then holding the flange tight. I put blobs of drywall spackle all around under the toilet so when it dries it supports the toilet equally. If it rocks use thin lead strips folded to size thickness then gently tap it under the hollow area if it rocks. After that then caulk the toilet in with a strong caulk like pheonoseal. An elephant can sit of it and it'll never rock once that spackle dries. Then hope you never have to change it because its a b*tch to slowly cut it loose with a spackle knife hammered under it until the spackle lets go. If you spray silicone or WD-40 on the toilet it'll form the shape of the bowl and not get stuck to hard to the spackle. I would not recommend using plaster or it'll be hard to remove. But unless you get a clog you'll never need to change or have to tighten it EVER.
@@stevenallen9592: Steven this is complete and utter nonsense, lol. I don’t mean to be rude but everything you’ve said is untrue. Drywall spackle has no structural integrity whatsoever and certainly wouldn’t prevent or support any sort of rocking motion of a porcelain toilet. It also dissolves in water so any time you wash the bathroom floor or the toilet backs up due to a big ol’ cow pie it will crumble, plus caulking around a toilet is an extremely bad idea. Also, a toilet clog seldom requires anything more than a plunger or a snake and almost never requires removal and re-installation of the toilet. Your style of amateur plumbing is the reason real plumbers never get a day off.
@@FixThisHouse: I apologize for not being quite so polite as you but Richard’s comment is not advice, it’s nonsense. Nobody uses rubber washers with toilet bowl hold down bolts because there’s no point. The bolts come with brass or brass-plated elongated washers and usually round plastic clip devices to hold the bolt caps in place. They do not come with any sort of rubber washer nor is any washer ever recommended. The internet is rife with amateur plumbers and it does the public a disservice to encourage them.
@@rayray8687 You have no idea what you're talking about. Just because you can't understand how somebody does some thing its a sign of ignorance to try to "imagine" in your head some way it fails or makes no sense. I've been reinstalling toilets over new floors we've installed since 1985 installing marble floors. Back in the '90's Hillsboro County in Florida passed a law requiring low flow toilets in new construction due to water shortages and the county offered free change out toilets with installation on older homes to anyone wishing to exchange them. My brother in law was one of several plumbers who were permitted to install them. Plumbers who installed more toilets per week got pick of customers as opposed to being given an address and paperwork for each home owner which was huge because everyone wanted the homes with 2 or more toilets instead of running out 20 miles to install 1 toilet before taking off to the next booked job. One summer he paid me to fly down and help him for a few weeks to lock up the multi exchange homes. Some days we were knocking off 12 to 16 toilets in a day with our system of one of us tearing out and prepping and the other was you,g behind and installing them. If there were no issues we got in and out within an hour swapping out 2 toilets then going 2 or 3 houses down the same street doing it again at $75 per toilet then most customers paid us "tipped" us to haul off the old ones and we left them at the township warehouse in Tampa Fla where we picked up the new toilets for the next day. So before you troll make sure you know what your talking about. As to the strength of plaster, not gypsum because there's a difference or even gypsum absolutely has compression strength when it dries. Air can compress and lift a car lol. Now here's where it shows you're clueless to plumbing. When "your" dump clogs a toilet it does not back water through the flange. Toilets work using the "J" or an "S" trap design to keep methane gas from backing up. Your dump is clogging inside that tight bend which is up above the flange and ZERO amount of water is at the flange. Only a clog in the main line can back up to where the toilet will leak from back flow pressure and when this is the case the fixture with the lowest point is the tub so if a toilet is backing from a main drain clog at the very least the tub will gurgle if not fill. You can Google to learn only so much but you can't Google about things you learn from actual hands on experience. Another give away is picking on someone who said he uses rubber washers. He never said it came in with the jonnybolt kit he said he used a rubber washer. If you knew about or had hands on experience you would know it doesn't hurt and if it makes him feel secure its his business. If you understood how the cap and the snap lock works you should've caught it that a rubber gasket will throw off the height of the nut holding the snap lock cap making it harder to snap on the cap, but not in possible. You don't owe the Mr fix it guy an apology you owe apologies to people you critized thinking you figured something out by your logic that was wrong and insulted somebody who is correct. If not then your nothing more then a troll with no class insulting people who weren't talking to you in the first place. Sheeze find something to do with yourself
I'm a plumber by trade. One thing I really dislike is this plastic ring. Best way to explain why is because it has a horn or extra flange. It's almost like having a trap on top of another trap. Wax ring is messy yes but it's been proven for many years. I only use wax rings. Only reason your toilet would leak is if it's not level or if it's loose meaning it rocks back and forth. That's why there's spacers to even out the toilet and prevent this problem. In many cases this extra flange slows down the water pressure when flushing since it is being funneled by not only the trap but by the flange on this plastic ring.
Ditto. I'm 67 and a computer engineer by trade. But, I fix everything in my house and only call "professionals" when 3 things are met: 1. I can afford to have someone else do the work 2. I know that professional can be trusted, and I'll pay more to get that person. 3. I think I could get in over my head. I had a professional cut 7 85+ foot trees down for me. The crew chief was a climber. That means they dropped what he cut straight down, missing my outbuildings and fruit trees. I cut down trees that tall myself if there is enough room for them to fall without damaging anything. I am good at that. I can fell a tree to within 15 inches of my target every time. Usually I'm ~6 inches from my target. To the point. I only use wax. I've Never had one leak, and contrary to what we were told in the video, they last many years. The last time I replaced one in a home about which I could keep track, the wax ring hadn't leaked or failed. That repair is ~55 years old. I'm closer to 70 than 65 now. And amazingly, I can remember stuff, unlike Brandon.
@Victim Hood just stop already. Multifloor has nothing to do with the floor temperature. Go ahead and prove it if you are so confident in your answer. Even with radiant heat and hydronic systems. You won't be stepping on a floor that can reach over 130° its not going to happen. Go ahead and use the rubber ring nothing will replace the wax ring.
@Victim Hood that's the reason code says to stay 6inches away or more and to be insulated. Think about it plastic/rubber will warp so if the install is done incorrectly it won't matter what you use. Good try though
After 3 years you've given me the confidence to fix my toilet before any real damage. took about half an hour with very little stress surprisingly. thank you!
Perfect timing! I’m just getting started on repairing my leaky toilet, and I came across these rubber seals. Sounded a lot better than the old wax rings. Hope it works out! Great video thanks! 👍👍❤️
Just replaced one toilet in my house yesterday after 16 years. The wax looked perfect and could continue sealing properly for years to come. I've only used wax rings in years past, never an issue with leaking. I like and use mostly Fluidmaster products as replacements, but something tells me these won't hold up nearly as well and or longer than wax. Anytime layers or doubling up is needed, it just creates future problems for leaking. Appreciate the info/video, but I'll stick with the tried and true.
Absolutely, Tile setter for 45 years, removed and replaced more toilets than any plumber. Wax is the way to go, after tile floor is installed the flange can be lower than floor and you can take a flanged wax ring and a non flanged and stack them, never had a toilet leak. I have come across 1 rubber one and it was leaking.
@@thomaskoehler9992thanks for the advice. That was the information i have been searching for. I have put a layer of plywood over the existing floor in a mobile home for stability and couldn't quite get the flang up enough. 👍
I’ve switched to rubber seals. Toilets have a tendency to rock. They can be fine at first but start rocking over time. Then the wax seal is screwed and it can leak despitetightening the closet bolts. I think the rubber is more forgiving. I’m not sure about doubling them up though, I’ve luckily never had to do that. I’m not a plumber tho, just have to do it occasionally.
I did septic tank installs in highschool, my MOS was 1171 in Marine Corps and messed around a little there with plumbing. Recently I had to replace the old wax ring that was leaking. I found the neoprene/rubber setup and I used it. No complaints after about a year, and I don't expect any. Ive used neoprene collars in a hydroponic cloning system for a few years, never once changing the neoprene collars, or having issues, so I'm pretty sure they shouldn't have an issue here. It is AT LEAST not as messy as pain in the ass as a wax ring. 😝🤣
This is literally the video I needed. I noticed my upstairs toilet leaking through the tank bolts so I bought a repair kid and changed all of the guts out but it continued to leak. I then took it apart and cleaned it like crazy and noticed micro hairline fracture on the tank. I got some epoxy cement and it’s curing as we speak. Brought the good tank from the basement up and will put the bad one downstairs or the “fixed” one when it’s done if it’s even fixed. But anyway. I just noticed that my toilet rocks and the caulking or sealant is all strode dry and damaged from water. I definitely have a leak. I’m going to go to Home Depot right now and buy the rubber seal and give this a go. Amazing video. Loved the explanation of everything and video tutorial on the use of it. Thank you!!
One PRO regarding the rubber seal is that is is reusable. If wax ring, and you install the ring and toilet, but find yourself needing to lift it back out for some reason, you might need to put in another new wax ring because the last one has been crushed. With the rubber seal, you can pull out the toilet and put it right back again with the same rubber seal.
One big con to using a rubber seal. With a little aggressive plungering you can spray nasty water out from around the base of the toilet. I use them and I respect the fact that they don't seal well against the plunger
@@IHateHandleNames It's probably cynical of me to say this, but if I was a plumber, I might not have the financial incentive to do a fix that might last a lot longer... just sayin'...
@Tyler - the reason you'll never see plumbing companies using rubber or foam toilet seals is because they cost 2 or 3 times as much as a wax seal. It has nothing to do with quality. If their trucks and vans were full of the best products on the market, they'd go out of business.
Unless you're replacing the bolts, there's no reason to take off the tank. Wax will last longer than anything on the market. Also, never install the wax on the bottom of the toilet first. As you can see in the video the bolts cut through the wax because he didn't line it up right. If you place the wax on the flange and center the toilet you'll be golden. Once you center the toilet on the wax, sit on the toilet backwards facing the tank. It will seal the wax evenly. ALSO, NEVER GET THE ONES WITH THE PLASTIC HORN!! sewage and water splash off it and can cause leaks, same with the rubber "better than wax" kit. They don't seal correctly and leak almost always. You may not know it until you look at the sub-floor years later and find it's rotted and moldy. Lastly, caulking is not necessary. If you need to level the toilet then use a shim in the front.
I was going to ask why he took the tank off. I have heard people do both ways. The reasons why people take it off are: - If it's a one person job, it makes the job easier, especially in reseating. - There is no chance in cracking the tank while the toilet is on its side when cleaning the old wax. Not sure how I will attempt mine.
Don't need to disconnect bowl...unless you want to replace rusty bolts or tank to bowl gasket... It did look a lot easier to set bowl straight down on bolts and wax, which is very important.
Rubber is not forever. Rubber degrades over time as well. In fact it almost seems to degrade faster than wax. Wax maybe messy but its actually time proven and tested.
The two comments above should change your mind on how long they last. The toilet only has two flimsy bolts and that wax will only take the shape to seal the first time any shifting and the seal is broken.
Just did this 2 days ago using the rubber fluidmaster. Worked flawlessly, it was nasty underneath the toilet, but this fixed it now my toilet is good. As others have said, you don’t really need take off the tank, but I did because I’m a noob and the bolts weren’t on the inside of the tank. They’re on the outside of it. Overall took 2 hours in total, but super worth it.
Great video. I had to lift a toilet an inch or so to reset the flange bolts after it had started rocking and they spun out and came loose from the flange slots. Do you think I need to replace the wax seal? or just check for leaks for a few days... At 5:22, I noticed you used an extra nut on the flange bolts over the plastic washer before placing the seal and mounting the tank. I'm going to do this too so it will hold the flange bolts to the ring so they won't spin out again. Any reason you took the tank off? Seems like an extra step. Thanks.
Yes. Wax doesn't expand to be recompressed. Once you break the wax seal, it must be replaced. You are almost guaranteed to generate a leak otherwise. (That's one benefit of the Better Than Wax product; it doesn't suffer from that problem.
Using a fine point Sharpie marker, i draw a line on the end of the Closet Bolt or Flange Bolt that is parallel to the elongation of the bolt head. Then I always know it's orientation in the slot. I do like the idea of the extra nut holding everything in place as long as it doesn't interfere with any parts on the bottom of the toilet base.
The reason for removing the tank is to make the assembly lighter, and easier to handle, and to replace the tank to bowl gasket, because why not since you're working on it already.
Thanks for showing us how to do this. My toilet won't flush as well now, and I think the toilet bowl ring was compressed into the sewer drain -- after years. So, I'm replacing it with one of these, and I hope it works as good. Also, I do remember having problems getting the toilet aligned just right, and I was a dumbass and reseated it a few times. So, I bet that I screwed up the toilet wax and (eventually) made this happen. Not sure. I'll remove it and see what's up. But, yeah, it hasn't always flushed perfectly, but the toilet parts all seem to work right. However, it's one of those Eco-ones so that might be an issue.
I live in Arizona and the wax ring melted under my toilet. Not only did it leak water but add that to the melted wax and it's a big mess. I'm going with the Fluidmaster!!!
Nice video. I'm in the middle of repairing my 49 year old cast iron floor flange, about to drill holes, either in an Oakey fix-it or an Oakey 4" twister. Has anyone used both the rubber seal along with the wax ring underneath it? I'm having concerns about being able to have the floor flange be truly level and it seems the wax ring would help resolve that.
As a weekend “do it yourselfer” I was installing a new toilet. I went through 2 wax rings and it still was leaking, ended up the floor tile wasn’t level with each other. The rubber ring worked for that situation really well.
a good idea is to put a face cloth with twine tied to it to cover the drain while cleaning old wax , rusted bolts or new hardware so nothing falls into the pipe . i also did this when cutting the drain pipe for a new flange installation . i was worried my inside pipe cutting bit saw could drop in .
Personally I think it's a bad idea to suck the wax ring directly under the toilet, it tends to fall once you move the toilet, I sit the wax ring in the flange and go from there.
I did the toilet as 1 piece, bending over was near the limit of my strength . used the poly one was forgiving if you wobble it putting it down. Do you need to checked the seal between the tank and the bowl when you replace the bolts?
INVENTION: Place a solenoid valve between the line and the toilet. Connect the solenoid to a water detection circuit. If water detected, then the solenoid turns the water off and illuminates a flashing red light "water detected"... Use one on each toilet, and one on the washing machine. Can prevent the "runaway leak" that destroys entire homes. Perfect for a rental or vacation home.
Better to use a motorized valve vs a solenoid. Solenoids tend to get really hot when magnetized, so better only to use them for situations when they’ll be on for a short amount of time, like a sprinkler zone.
Great idea, that has been around for ages. They just put the "switch" on the main water shutoff. No need to isolate a leak. You don't even need to plumb many of them in. They attach straight to the pipe and main valve.
Good video. I noticed a sewer smell, but no water leaking from the base of my toilet. The flange is level with the tile so I'll be using the blk rubber spacer.
Nice video but I must say removing a toilet tank to swap out a wax ring or rubber ring is like removing your windshield to change a flat tire also pro tip...use wd 40 and a rag to remove any wax residue you might get on your flooring you will be amazed and your welcome!
As a plumber I’ve set multiple toilets and replaced multiple wax rings never have a leak. And the only thing the rubber seals are good for is stealing the pack of bolts,washers and nuts that’s it 😂
Great video but people never use any tools to tighten the hose to your toilet side 7/8” side if you notice they are all plastic and have good grip that’s so your hand 🤚 is the only thing you need to tighten it, I made the mistake of using channel locks like him and months later the plastic connection where I tightened broke while I was at work and guess what that hose doesn’t shut off on it’s own but my wife noticed and turned it off still flooded a decent amount, true story :)
Never ever use tools to tighten bolts or supply line on a toilet. I have never seen a plumber use a non wax ring to install a toilet. I really question if this guy knows what he is talking about
Since most flooring is not perfectly level, wax is superior. Also too many people send chemicals down the toilet which will deteriorate the rubber in no time. If your flange is flush with the FINISH floor , set wax ring on the flange, not the toilet bowl, you’ll never have a leak.
Thank you. I am doing this exact same thing with my small bathroom and even installing similar flooring. I got the golden Arowana engineered hardwood floating floor vs the vinyl planks
Flange is the drain in the floor. Gasket is the blue one, replaces the wax ring. Riser is the black one only used if the flange in the floor is below the tile
I replaced my old wax seal (that worked for about a decade) last year with the rubber one and tonight after work I'm going to have to figure out why it's leaking already
Yeah that foam gets eaten away very quickly compared to wax. I just replaced my old toilet and I used the better than wax about less than two months ago and the foam was getting eaten away. No leaks but it didn't look like it was gonna last.
#1 before you do ANYTHING for an install or toilet replacement...make sure your TOILET FLANGE SITS ON TOP OF THE FINISHED FLOOR REGARDLESS OF WOOD, TILE OR VINYL. IF YOU ARE LOW, SIMPLY INSTALLING A 1/4" PVC SPACER RING IS ALL YOU NEED. STAY WITH PRODUCTS THAT HAVE BEEN AROUND FOR A HUNDRED YEARS.
Are the nuts that were removed not SAE 1/2" and 7/16" wrench/socket size not metric? Metric 11mm (7/16") and 13mm would be both loose on the fasteners, let alone 12mm. At least IMHO.
I used one of those rubber gaskets and at some point the knob on the bottom of the toilet kinked it over and within a week after putting it in it was pissing water all over the floor. Not as good as you think they are. I think I'm going to have to go to wax again.
Their fine i use them and contractors i know turned me on to them. Fucking wax is a disgusting mess and promotes hesitation of picking up to adjust, or clean, or inspect. They make it such a mess and have become entirely anachronistic
I took off the tank. I still have water in the bowl. Did I do something wrong? Do I need to get the water out of the bowl before I remove it or will it go down the drain itself?
If you don't want your toilet tank to leak don't take it apart in the first place when it's not leaking.. some of those toilets will never ever seal once they come apart so I stay away from it with just about everything I do..
Agreed. I have 40+ year old toilets out there still in use and the tanks aren't leaking. If I have to pull a tank, I'm going to replace the entire toilet.
My plumber told me that if it's time to redo the seal, it's a good time to replace the bolts. We live in an area with highly chlorinated water so it may depend on the characteristics of your water and the reason you are installing a new wax seal.
Just use wax. Easier and it last a long time. And I just bought one for a new toilet this weekend. It was 2.88. My toilet was original from 1954 when house was built. No leak on the wax.
Wax is the only way, but start it on the closet ring - protecting the closet ring and bolts from corrosion is part of the wax installation. Also, removing the tank is just more work and may require new seals.
Should stuff a wad of TP instead of a rag... Then you don't have to remove it before you set the throne...... Or forget it and have go pull the throne off to retrieve it.
Question… so my basement toilet with a wax seal started leaking a few days ago. I removed the toilet and wax seal and replaced it with the same rubber seal you show here. There is no water in the tank and the line has been disconnected for a few days now. I’ve noticed that there is still water leaking at the bottom. It appears to not be coming from the toilet. What could possibly be causing the leak? If it matters, my flange is raised from the floor since it’s a concrete foundation. Any advice?
I would stick with the wax and most plumbers stay away from the ones that have funnel horns built in. Also, absolutely no reason to remove the tank when doing a flange seal. If your flange is low they sell spacers to correct for floor thickness. Double rubber seal is a bad idea.
To everyone here - and I can't believe how many who said removing the tank is totally unnecessary, I'd say, no, you're wrong. Its a totally useful step that makes the project doable for non giants and those of us who aren't 180 lbs of muscle. I definitely appreciate how descriptive this UA-camr is in giving helpful instructions for non-plumbers, which is what the video is for.
A cooi trick i learned is cut a plastic drinking straw in half and place each half on the flange bolts. That makes it super easy to guide the bolts through the mounting holes on the toilet base. Once its set in place just pull the straws off and install the washers and nuts🤙👍
I’ve watched quite a few videos on this and this is the first one to recommend pulling the tank, then the toilet. This makes a lot of sense, especially when using a wax seal. The wax is unforgiving and if you shift the toilet too much as you’re installing it the wax can deform and obstruct the flange drain. It’s much easier to lower the fixture straight down onto the seal and align the bolts the first time without the weight and bulk of the tank on it. Then with the new tank bolts you’ve eliminated any problems there as well. Good video!
Thank you so much for the amazing feedback! 🙏🏽😊
How are you going to remove the toilet without first removing the tank? What vids are you watching?
@@AdamBlankenship-x3z I’ve seen a few where they just lift the whole thing off to save time. Once you disconnect the water line, all you have to do is remove the two flange bolts at the base and the whole thing will lift off together. I think it’s usually guys that are on the clock. Sorry, it’s been awhile so I don’t remember the videos where I saw it.
Thank you for posting this DIY video. As a first time home owner who was never taught how to fix things around the house, I was able to use your video as a tutorial to replace the wax ring seal on a rocking toilet.
You’re a brave man 😎
I always put a big rag or crumpled newspaper down in the drop pipe just in case I drop one of my tools. If I don’t do it I’m sure to drop a wrench or socket down there.
I just replaced our leaky wax seal with a Fluidmaster. It took an hour remove the wax leftovers, but only 15 minutes to install the Fluidmaster - including reading the instructions. Happily, no leaks. I also have now learned how to double up on Fluidmasters if the flange underneath is way below floor level. Thank you! Subscribed.
Yeah, Fluidmaster was very deceptive in their product box design. The outside of the box said it would fit any flange, any height. Nowhere does it say that you might need to purchase a second seal until you get home, open it up and read the instructions.
The rubber seal is far more forgiving than the wax and I'd recommend it for beginners over the wax. The problem with the wax is it's single use and you have to get it right the first time or it'll leak. The last time I changed a toilet, it was kind of an awkward and heavy one so I goofed setting it down on the wax and when I went to readjust it and test it, it leaked. There was no fixing the wax seal. I had to go to the hardware store again and this time I got a rubber seal. Although I did goof up again setting it down on the seal, readjusting it got it down perfectly and it hasn't leaked since.
Yes, you so right. You can read my comment above. I had to reseat it a few times, and it sure messes up the wax. And, now, it is not flushing as well, so I think the wax ring squished into the sewer drain part. Anyway, I'm glad this guy made a video. I can't wait to move to the plastic one.
I have issues with the bolts rusting and needing replacement every few years. No way am I dealing with a messy wax ring that often.
@@drl5002 Buy better bolts
When attaching bolts to porcellin always use a rubber washer between the porcellin and the metal washer to avoid cracking the porcellin fixture. Do not overtighten.
Thank you 🙏🏽 for this tip! 😊👍🏽
Yes always press the toilet tight to the floor then tighten. Those bolts aren't technically for bolting the toilet down rather then holding the flange tight. I put blobs of drywall spackle all around under the toilet so when it dries it supports the toilet equally. If it rocks use thin lead strips folded to size thickness then gently tap it under the hollow area if it rocks. After that then caulk the toilet in with a strong caulk like pheonoseal. An elephant can sit of it and it'll never rock once that spackle dries. Then hope you never have to change it because its a b*tch to slowly cut it loose with a spackle knife hammered under it until the spackle lets go. If you spray silicone or WD-40 on the toilet it'll form the shape of the bowl and not get stuck to hard to the spackle. I would not recommend using plaster or it'll be hard to remove. But unless you get a clog you'll never need to change or have to tighten it EVER.
@@stevenallen9592: Steven this is complete and utter nonsense, lol. I don’t mean to be rude but everything you’ve said is untrue. Drywall spackle has no structural integrity whatsoever and certainly wouldn’t prevent or support any sort of rocking motion of a porcelain toilet. It also dissolves in water so any time you wash the bathroom floor or the toilet backs up due to a big ol’ cow pie it will crumble, plus caulking around a toilet is an extremely bad idea. Also, a toilet clog seldom requires anything more than a plunger or a snake and almost never requires removal and re-installation of the toilet. Your style of amateur plumbing is the reason real plumbers never get a day off.
@@FixThisHouse: I apologize for not being quite so polite as you but Richard’s comment is not advice, it’s nonsense. Nobody uses rubber washers with toilet bowl hold down bolts because there’s no point. The bolts come with brass or brass-plated elongated washers and usually round plastic clip devices to hold the bolt caps in place. They do not come with any sort of rubber washer nor is any washer ever recommended. The internet is rife with amateur plumbers and it does the public a disservice to encourage them.
@@rayray8687
You have no idea what you're talking about. Just because you can't understand how somebody does some thing its a sign of ignorance to try to "imagine" in your head some way it fails or makes no sense. I've been reinstalling toilets over new floors we've installed since 1985 installing marble floors. Back in the '90's Hillsboro County in Florida passed a law requiring low flow toilets in new construction due to water shortages and the county offered free change out toilets with installation on older homes to anyone wishing to exchange them. My brother in law was one of several plumbers who were permitted to install them. Plumbers who installed more toilets per week got pick of customers as opposed to being given an address and paperwork for each home owner which was huge because everyone wanted the homes with 2 or more toilets instead of running out 20 miles to install 1 toilet before taking off to the next booked job. One summer he paid me to fly down and help him for a few weeks to lock up the multi exchange homes. Some days we were knocking off 12 to 16 toilets in a day with our system of one of us tearing out and prepping and the other was you,g behind and installing them. If there were no issues we got in and out within an hour swapping out 2 toilets then going 2 or 3 houses down the same street doing it again at $75 per toilet then most customers paid us "tipped" us to haul off the old ones and we left them at the township warehouse in Tampa Fla where we picked up the new toilets for the next day. So before you troll make sure you know what your talking about. As to the strength of plaster, not gypsum because there's a difference or even gypsum absolutely has compression strength when it dries. Air can compress and lift a car lol. Now here's where it shows you're clueless to plumbing. When "your" dump clogs a toilet it does not back water through the flange. Toilets work using the "J" or an "S" trap design to keep methane gas from backing up. Your dump is clogging inside that tight bend which is up above the flange and ZERO amount of water is at the flange. Only a clog in the main line can back up to where the toilet will leak from back flow pressure and when this is the case the fixture with the lowest point is the tub so if a toilet is backing from a main drain clog at the very least the tub will gurgle if not fill. You can Google to learn only so much but you can't Google about things you learn from actual hands on experience. Another give away is picking on someone who said he uses rubber washers. He never said it came in with the jonnybolt kit he said he used a rubber washer. If you knew about or had hands on experience you would know it doesn't hurt and if it makes him feel secure its his business. If you understood how the cap and the snap lock works you should've caught it that a rubber gasket will throw off the height of the nut holding the snap lock cap making it harder to snap on the cap, but not in possible. You don't owe the Mr fix it guy an apology you owe apologies to people you critized thinking you figured something out by your logic that was wrong and insulted somebody who is correct. If not then your nothing more then a troll with no class insulting people who weren't talking to you in the first place. Sheeze find something to do with yourself
I'm a plumber by trade. One thing I really dislike is this plastic ring. Best way to explain why is because it has a horn or extra flange. It's almost like having a trap on top of another trap. Wax ring is messy yes but it's been proven for many years. I only use wax rings. Only reason your toilet would leak is if it's not level or if it's loose meaning it rocks back and forth. That's why there's spacers to even out the toilet and prevent this problem. In many cases this extra flange slows down the water pressure when flushing since it is being funneled by not only the trap but by the flange on this plastic ring.
Ditto.
I'm 67 and a computer engineer by trade. But, I fix everything in my house and only call "professionals" when 3 things are met:
1. I can afford to have someone else do the work
2. I know that professional can be trusted, and I'll pay more to get that person.
3. I think I could get in over my head. I had a professional cut 7 85+ foot trees down for me. The crew chief was a climber. That means they dropped what he cut straight down, missing my outbuildings and fruit trees. I cut down trees that tall myself if there is enough room for them to fall without damaging anything. I am good at that. I can fell a tree to within 15 inches of my target every time. Usually I'm ~6 inches from my target.
To the point. I only use wax. I've Never had one leak, and contrary to what we were told in the video, they last many years. The last time I replaced one in a home about which I could keep track, the wax ring hadn't leaked or failed. That repair is ~55 years old. I'm closer to 70 than 65 now. And amazingly, I can remember stuff, unlike Brandon.
@@KLP99 let’s wait until you get to 80, you won’t remember anything, like brandon
@Victim Hood you are telling me that your floor temperature gets above 130° ?I don't think so.
@Victim Hood just stop already. Multifloor has nothing to do with the floor temperature. Go ahead and prove it if you are so confident in your answer. Even with radiant heat and hydronic systems. You won't be stepping on a floor that can reach over 130° its not going to happen. Go ahead and use the rubber ring nothing will replace the wax ring.
@Victim Hood that's the reason code says to stay 6inches away or more and to be insulated. Think about it plastic/rubber will warp so if the install is done incorrectly it won't matter what you use. Good try though
After 3 years you've given me the confidence to fix my toilet before any real damage. took about half an hour with very little stress surprisingly. thank you!
nice to be able to take care of things oneself
Perfect timing! I’m just getting started on repairing my leaky toilet, and I came across these rubber seals. Sounded a lot better than the old wax rings. Hope it works out! Great video thanks! 👍👍❤️
How did everything work out for you?
Just replaced one toilet in my house yesterday after 16 years. The wax looked perfect and could continue sealing properly for years to come. I've only used wax rings in years past, never an issue with leaking. I like and use mostly Fluidmaster products as replacements, but something tells me these won't hold up nearly as well and or longer than wax. Anytime layers or doubling up is needed, it just creates future problems for leaking. Appreciate the info/video, but I'll stick with the tried and true.
Absolutely, Tile setter for 45 years, removed and replaced more toilets than any plumber. Wax is the way to go, after tile floor is installed the flange can be lower than floor and you can take a flanged wax ring and a non flanged and stack them, never had a toilet leak. I have come across 1 rubber one and it was leaking.
@@thomaskoehler9992thanks for the advice. That was the information i have been searching for. I have put a layer of plywood over the existing floor in a mobile home for stability and couldn't quite get the flang up enough. 👍
I’ve switched to rubber seals. Toilets have a tendency to rock. They can be fine at first but start rocking over time. Then the wax seal is screwed and it can leak despitetightening the closet bolts. I think the rubber is more forgiving. I’m not sure about doubling them up though, I’ve luckily never had to do that. I’m not a plumber tho, just have to do it occasionally.
Wax ftw 💯
I did septic tank installs in highschool, my MOS was 1171 in Marine Corps and messed around a little there with plumbing.
Recently I had to replace the old wax ring that was leaking. I found the neoprene/rubber setup and I used it. No complaints after about a year, and I don't expect any. Ive used neoprene collars in a hydroponic cloning system for a few years, never once changing the neoprene collars, or having issues, so I'm pretty sure they shouldn't have an issue here. It is AT LEAST not as messy as pain in the ass as a wax ring. 😝🤣
What’s 1171? 80’s era 3521 here, diesel mechanic
This is literally the video I needed. I noticed my upstairs toilet leaking through the tank bolts so I bought a repair kid and changed all of the guts out but it continued to leak. I then took it apart and cleaned it like crazy and noticed micro hairline fracture on the tank. I got some epoxy cement and it’s curing as we speak. Brought the good tank from the basement up and will put the bad one downstairs or the “fixed” one when it’s done if it’s even fixed. But anyway. I just noticed that my toilet rocks and the caulking or sealant is all strode dry and damaged from water. I definitely have a leak. I’m going to go to Home Depot right now and buy the rubber seal and give this a go. Amazing video. Loved the explanation of everything and video tutorial on the use of it. Thank you!!
but some toilets shims just in case. if the floor isnt level. The toilet will rock no matter how much you tighten it down.
I think you and I had the same person install our toilets. I had the same exact issues.
One PRO regarding the rubber seal is that is is reusable.
If wax ring, and you install the ring and toilet, but find yourself needing to lift it back out for some reason, you might need to put in another new wax ring because the last one has been crushed.
With the rubber seal, you can pull out the toilet and put it right back again with the same rubber seal.
One big con to using a rubber seal. With a little aggressive plungering you can spray nasty water out from around the base of the toilet. I use them and I respect the fact that they don't seal well against the plunger
One con is that they leak. You ever go to a plumbing company and look in trucks you'll never see guys using foam or rubber rings. They all use wax.
@@IHateHandleNames It's probably cynical of me to say this, but if I was a plumber, I might not have the financial incentive to do a fix that might last a lot longer... just sayin'...
@Tyler - the reason you'll never see plumbing companies using rubber or foam toilet seals is because they cost 2 or 3 times as much as a wax seal. It has nothing to do with quality. If their trucks and vans were full of the best products on the market, they'd go out of business.
@@IHateHandleNames I replaced all three of my toilets in my house and used the Oatey rubber seal on them all. No issues and it's been 7 years now.
Unless you're replacing the bolts, there's no reason to take off the tank. Wax will last longer than anything on the market. Also, never install the wax on the bottom of the toilet first. As you can see in the video the bolts cut through the wax because he didn't line it up right. If you place the wax on the flange and center the toilet you'll be golden. Once you center the toilet on the wax, sit on the toilet backwards facing the tank. It will seal the wax evenly. ALSO, NEVER GET THE ONES WITH THE PLASTIC HORN!! sewage and water splash off it and can cause leaks, same with the rubber "better than wax" kit. They don't seal correctly and leak almost always. You may not know it until you look at the sub-floor years later and find it's rotted and moldy. Lastly, caulking is not necessary. If you need to level the toilet then use a shim in the front.
I always thought it made far more sense to put the ring on the floor flange first. Why do all the instructions always say the opposite?
@@boojiecentoobie4272 so they can sell more wax rings I guess... Lol
I was going to ask why he took the tank off. I have heard people do both ways. The reasons why people take it off are:
- If it's a one person job, it makes the job easier, especially in reseating.
- There is no chance in cracking the tank while the toilet is on its side when cleaning the old wax.
Not sure how I will attempt mine.
"Lastly, caulking is not necessary."
Unless of course you want to be code compliant.
@@notahotshot it's not a universal code, the code is state by state.
Yeah, I’ve replaced, ten plus, wax rings and have never removed the tank. Extra work for no reason.
I install flooring I've probably put in 1,000 toilets and never taking the tank off
I'm a licensed plumber and I wouldn't take the tank off to swap a wax seal.
Im a DYIer who has only replaced a wax ring once in my 30 year life. And I didn't remove the tank. True story.
I don't plan on doing this until next week and I didn't take the tank off.
@@MrChris4251 🤣
Don't need to disconnect bowl...unless you want to replace rusty bolts or tank to bowl gasket... It did look a lot easier to set bowl straight down on bolts and wax, which is very important.
Rubber is not forever. Rubber degrades over time as well. In fact it almost seems to degrade faster than wax. Wax maybe messy but its actually time proven and tested.
👍🏻 Wax is the way to go...tried & true 💯
If your wax seals are only lasting you 3-4 years then you're installing them or the toilet wrong. They should last between 20 and 30 years!
These video was for instructional purpose only 🙏🏽
@@frank9733 I’ve got a 350 pound mother in law. I’m not kidding, I’m afraid to figure out why our toilet is leaking
The two comments above should change your mind on how long they last. The toilet only has two flimsy bolts and that wax will only take the shape to seal the first time any shifting and the seal is broken.
@@luemn7691 that's what threadlock is for
@@noahdecoteau6381 how is threadlock gonna solve the issues mentioned above?
Just did this 2 days ago using the rubber fluidmaster. Worked flawlessly, it was nasty underneath the toilet, but this fixed it now my toilet is good.
As others have said, you don’t really need take off the tank, but I did because I’m a noob and the bolts weren’t on the inside of the tank. They’re on the outside of it.
Overall took 2 hours in total, but super worth it.
Wax seal can last 20 plus years with good flange setup
Spot on comment.
Plush some I seen toilet set over 40 yrs old never been undone until I get the call .shit wax is the Best jumbo with the horn
Great video. I had to lift a toilet an inch or so to reset the flange bolts after it had started rocking and they spun out and came loose from the flange slots. Do you think I need to replace the wax seal? or just check for leaks for a few days...
At 5:22, I noticed you used an extra nut on the flange bolts over the plastic washer before placing the seal and mounting the tank. I'm going to do this too so it will hold the flange bolts to the ring so they won't spin out again. Any reason you took the tank off? Seems like an extra step. Thanks.
Yes. Wax doesn't expand to be recompressed. Once you break the wax seal, it must be replaced. You are almost guaranteed to generate a leak otherwise. (That's one benefit of the Better Than Wax product; it doesn't suffer from that problem.
Using a fine point Sharpie marker, i draw a line on the end of the Closet Bolt or Flange Bolt that is parallel to the elongation of the bolt head. Then I always know it's orientation in the slot. I do like the idea of the extra nut holding everything in place as long as it doesn't interfere with any parts on the bottom of the toilet base.
Kind of agree, no real reason to remove the tank.
The reason for removing the tank is to make the assembly lighter, and easier to handle, and to replace the tank to bowl gasket, because why not since you're working on it already.
Thanks for showing us how to do this. My toilet won't flush as well now, and I think the toilet bowl ring was compressed into the sewer drain -- after years. So, I'm replacing it with one of these, and I hope it works as good. Also, I do remember having problems getting the toilet aligned just right, and I was a dumbass and reseated it a few times. So, I bet that I screwed up the toilet wax and (eventually) made this happen. Not sure. I'll remove it and see what's up. But, yeah, it hasn't always flushed perfectly, but the toilet parts all seem to work right. However, it's one of those Eco-ones so that might be an issue.
Easily the Best video I have found for this issue. Thank you Sir! 👍
Thank you so much James for the love and support! 🙏🏽😊
I live in Arizona and the wax ring melted under my toilet. Not only did it leak water but add that to the melted wax and it's a big mess. I'm going with the Fluidmaster!!!
Nice video. I'm in the middle of repairing my 49 year old cast iron floor flange, about to drill holes, either in an Oakey fix-it or an Oakey 4" twister. Has anyone used both the rubber seal along with the wax ring underneath it? I'm having concerns about being able to have the floor flange be truly level and it seems the wax ring would help resolve that.
As a weekend “do it yourselfer” I was installing a new toilet. I went through 2 wax rings and it still was leaking, ended up the floor tile wasn’t level with each other. The rubber ring worked for that situation really well.
U didn't tighten it down good enough thts all
@@larrytheplumber9851 I doubt it
I removed 10 plus ring & never had a rubber held up less then 9 months
Wax is for ever 20 plus years best invention
Replaced all three toilets in my house and used the Oatey rubber seal on all of them. 7 years later and still no issues.
a good idea is to put a face cloth with twine tied to it to cover the drain while cleaning old wax , rusted bolts or new hardware so nothing falls into the pipe . i also did this when cutting the drain pipe for a new flange installation . i was worried my inside pipe cutting bit saw could drop in .
Personally I think it's a bad idea to suck the wax ring directly under the toilet, it tends to fall once you move the toilet, I sit the wax ring in the flange and go from there.
You left out the rusted flange and the mounting bolts have little to hang on go. Which type of flange should be used?
I did the toilet as 1 piece, bending over was near the limit of my strength . used the poly one was forgiving if you wobble it putting it down.
Do you need to checked the seal between the tank and the bowl when you replace the bolts?
I've been using wax rings for decades and never had one fail.
INVENTION: Place a solenoid valve between the line and the toilet. Connect the solenoid to a water detection circuit. If water detected, then the solenoid turns the water off and illuminates a flashing red light "water detected"... Use one on each toilet, and one on the washing machine. Can prevent the "runaway leak" that destroys entire homes. Perfect for a rental or vacation home.
Better to use a motorized valve vs a solenoid. Solenoids tend to get really hot when magnetized, so better only to use them for situations when they’ll be on for a short amount of time, like a sprinkler zone.
@@artificiallyunintelligent4537 True, that way it only has to be energized for a short time to turn off...
Great idea, that has been around for ages. They just put the "switch" on the main water shutoff. No need to isolate a leak. You don't even need to plumb many of them in. They attach straight to the pipe and main valve.
@@ouisi7 Sweet, what are they called so I can go and buy said system?
@@thetruthserum2816 Google whole house leak detection system
Great tutorial. Camera work is on point. ❤
Great video brother did a few of these 2 years ago, great to watch and remember all the steps.
Good video. I noticed a sewer smell, but no water leaking from the base of my toilet. The flange is level with the tile so I'll be using the blk rubber spacer.
Do you hear your toilets talk to each other at night? I do. My toilets say, "Tomorrow it's your turn to leak.'
Nice video but I must say removing a toilet tank to swap out a wax ring or rubber ring is like removing your windshield to change a flat tire also pro tip...use wd 40 and a rag to remove any wax residue you might get on your flooring you will be amazed and your welcome!
Most needed video for me right now , I have brought both wax and rubber seals, deciding between them for toilet replacement …
I’m glad I could be of help! Love the rubber seal, easy install and no mess! 👍🏽😊
@@FixThisHouse , Thanks a lot for your videos , they are to the points and very useful to my DIY projects ,..
As a plumber I’ve set multiple toilets and replaced multiple wax rings never have a leak. And the only thing the rubber seals are good for is stealing the pack of bolts,washers and nuts that’s it 😂
Thx I agree
Strongly disagree. Replaced all three toilets in my house and used the Oatey rubber seal on all of them. 7 years later and still no issues.
I agree wax is the way to go. If you shim the toilet where it's low and get rid of the rocking. The wax seal last forever.
Great video but people never use any tools to tighten the hose to your toilet side 7/8” side if you notice they are all plastic and have good grip that’s so your hand 🤚 is the only thing you need to tighten it, I made the mistake of using channel locks like him and months later the plastic connection where I tightened broke while I was at work and guess what that hose doesn’t shut off on it’s own but my wife noticed and turned it off still flooded a decent amount, true story :)
Thank you for the advice! 🙏🏽😊
Correct, all you need is hand tight like a hose!
Never ever use tools to tighten bolts or supply line on a toilet. I have never seen a plumber use a non wax ring to install a toilet. I really question if this guy knows what he is talking about
I used to be a plumber and I was taught to tighten it down by hand, then take the channel locks and turn it another 1/4 of a turn.
Since most flooring is not perfectly level, wax is superior. Also too many people send chemicals down the toilet which will deteriorate the rubber in no time. If your flange is flush with the FINISH floor , set wax ring on the flange, not the toilet bowl, you’ll never have a leak.
Thank you. I am doing this exact same thing with my small bathroom and even installing similar flooring. I got the golden Arowana engineered hardwood floating floor vs the vinyl planks
What are your opinions on the Danco Perfect Seal rings? Thanks.
The wax only last a few years? I was told they last forever or until you replace/remove the toilet
@5:51 it is very confusing which one is the toilet gasket riser and which one is the seal by the way you are holding and showing them.
Flange is the drain in the floor. Gasket is the blue one, replaces the wax ring. Riser is the black one only used if the flange in the floor is below the tile
@@ayanhussain6798 Thank you!
He did make it difficult to understand and easy to confuse
I replaced my old wax seal (that worked for about a decade) last year with the rubber one and tonight after work I'm going to have to figure out why it's leaking already
So, have you figured out why it leaked? Was the rubber ring to blame? @gil2k
Is it universal for every toilets ?
Thanks. Very fast and helpful.
Yeah that foam gets eaten away very quickly compared to wax. I just replaced my old toilet and I used the better than wax about less than two months ago and the foam was getting eaten away. No leaks but it didn't look like it was gonna last.
Stumbled upon this video and it helped! Tysm!
Do one about the flush assist toilets. And the air lock toilets
#1 before you do ANYTHING for an install or toilet replacement...make sure your TOILET FLANGE SITS ON TOP OF THE FINISHED FLOOR REGARDLESS OF WOOD, TILE OR VINYL. IF YOU ARE LOW, SIMPLY INSTALLING A 1/4" PVC SPACER RING IS ALL YOU NEED. STAY WITH PRODUCTS THAT HAVE BEEN AROUND FOR A HUNDRED YEARS.
OK GRANDPA! STOP YELLING AT ME!
@@supersabrosinho 😄👍🏼🇺🇲
"STAY WITH PRODUCTS THAT HAVE BEEN AROUND FOR A HUNDRED YEARS."
Yeah, progress in materials sciences be damned.
Always interesting and helpful 👍
So the wax thingie just sits there? There is no sealing between that wax thingie and the sewer line?
Thingie lingie
Thanks buddy it's time to roll up my sleeves.
First time using a pair of adjustable pliers?
I like the rubber seal. Reusable. If you need to pry the toilet off it’s not messy etc
Are the nuts that were removed not SAE 1/2" and 7/16" wrench/socket size not metric? Metric 11mm (7/16") and 13mm would be both loose on the fasteners, let alone 12mm. At least IMHO.
I used one of those rubber gaskets and at some point the knob on the bottom of the toilet kinked it over and within a week after putting it in it was pissing water all over the floor. Not as good as you think they are. I think I'm going to have to go to wax again.
Stop using it for a cocking chair.
Their fine i use them and contractors i know turned me on to them. Fucking wax is a disgusting mess and promotes hesitation of picking up to adjust, or clean, or inspect. They make it such a mess and have become entirely anachronistic
Why do you have to disconnect the tank from the bowl?
You don’t have to do that.
Thank you. Perfect tutorial . Much appreciated.
I took off the tank. I still have water in the bowl. Did I do something wrong? Do I need to get the water out of the bowl before I remove it or will it go down the drain itself?
Suck it with a straw
Thank you my friends. May I ask the blue on says it last "forever", but why if the flange lower than floor, what will happen?
5:40
Thank you so much pare! 🤘🏽🔥
If you don't want your toilet tank to leak don't take it apart in the first place when it's not leaking.. some of those toilets will never ever seal once they come apart so I stay away from it with just about everything I do..
Agreed. I have 40+ year old toilets out there still in use and the tanks aren't leaking. If I have to pull a tank, I'm going to replace the entire toilet.
Can this cause the pipes to shake?
My plumber told me that if it's time to redo the seal, it's a good time to replace the bolts. We live in an area with highly chlorinated water so it may depend on the characteristics of your water and the reason you are installing a new wax seal.
thanks so much for this video and you are #1
Should we use Caulking around the bottom of the toilet Bowl..???
If you do and there is a leak, you won't know it until the subfloor is completely rotted away.
Just flushed a few times to see if There’s no leaks yeah you can put Caulking look way better
@@cavpilot I like this advice. You want to know if it's leaking. Who cares if you can see the seam?
If you want to caulk then do so, just leave the backside of the toilet uncaulked that way you can detect leaks. That simple!
I used the rubber because I'm a beginner and my toilet is very tricky to install (tight space and the bolts are not visible like a "normal toilet)
How did you get that wax ring to stick to the bottom of the toilet🤔
It’s wax so it automatically sticks to the porcelain like glue almost
How long do each of these last?
Depends on use.....but rubber ring will last longer than wax ring
Thank you I love the vide0
Thank you Jackson for watching! 🙏🏽😊
Verry good ! 👍👍👍
Excelent video to the points, none of the long winded poor talking of others i have seen.
Thank you so much for the feedback! 👍🏽😊🙏🏽
Very nice video....thank you.
Thank you 🙏🏽!
Just use wax. Easier and it last a long time. And I just bought one for a new toilet this weekend. It was 2.88. My toilet was original from 1954 when house was built. No leak on the wax.
Wax is the only way, but start it on the closet ring - protecting the closet ring and bolts from corrosion is part of the wax installation. Also, removing the tank is just more work and may require new seals.
Great Job! Thanks!
any reason i can't just leave the tank attached? the bolts are so rusted I can't get them loose.
Thank you.
Why you don't put the bolt cap back?
Thanks for sharing
Thank you sir!
The guy I hired use the wax and it leak. I had to replace it myself with the rubber since it came with a riser flange and no more leak so far.
After I remove the toilet from the floor, I stick a wadded up rag in the hole. Keeps me from dropping anything in there.
Should stuff a wad of TP instead of a rag... Then you don't have to remove it before you set the throne...... Or forget it and have go pull the throne off to retrieve it.
Question… so my basement toilet with a wax seal started leaking a few days ago. I removed the toilet and wax seal and replaced it with the same rubber seal you show here. There is no water in the tank and the line has been disconnected for a few days now. I’ve noticed that there is still water leaking at the bottom. It appears to not be coming from the toilet. What could possibly be causing the leak? If it matters, my flange is raised from the floor since it’s a concrete foundation. Any advice?
Did the leak was solve? I have the same
@@dechimbote Yep i got it figured out! Turns out my toilet had a hairline crack in it. I ended up having to replace the entire toilet.
Put a rag on the floor flange to avoid sewer gases and to prevent anything from falling inside.
That was exactly my thought...! That is a "MOST"...!! 👍
Thank you.Main products: sealing gasket,gland packing,PTFE/graphite/asbestos products, ceramic fiber products, high temperature heat insulation and fireproof material.
Do I need to caulk around the edge of the toilet when complete?
No. You can but it's not required.
Some places require it to be up to code. It also can help keeping it hygienic if done correctly
I would stick with the wax and most plumbers stay away from the ones that have funnel horns built in. Also, absolutely no reason to remove the tank when doing a flange seal. If your flange is low they sell spacers to correct for floor thickness. Double rubber seal is a bad idea.
Fyi you said 13mm socket on a 1/2” ratchet. Just by comparing socket to head size. I believe you meant to say 3/8” ratchet
i think those plastic disks are supposed to be used under the steel washers on the outside of toilet, no?
Any men out there that own there own home should know this...
👍🏽😊🙏🏽
Or women...
Thank you so much. Big help for me to fix our toilet. Now I'm planning to be a plumber for extra income 🥰
Great job
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
You may want to read the fine print on the instructions for the rubber gasket- using cleaners that have chlorine (bleach) will destroy it!!