Dude! Harbor Freight sells boxes of nitrile gloves cheap. There's no need to get your bare hands right in the fecal residue. Also, some people say it's better NOT to caulk around the toilet so you can detect any water leakage before you rot out your subfloor.
I installed one in my bathroom about 2 years ago (new flooring, vanity and sink project). No problems thus far. My old cast iron flange was 1/2" -3/4" below the level of the floor so I didn't bother to remove it. I was able to install the exact same plastic Oatey flange over the top of the existing cast iron flange. Kinda unique situation I suppose, but certainly saved myself a little time. Also, used the old wax ring to seal around the base of this replacement flange too. No silicone used. Interesting that you too had a little difficulty with the screws securing/gripping to the wood. The angles pre-drilled on the plastic flange could be a little better to accommodate the screws. There's a little angle to them, but they could certainly be improved. Got about 4 or 5 into the wood, but missed on 1 or 2 others too. Overall a pretty easy install. Very happy with the end result. No water or weird gas leaks either. Definitely hit a home run with this DYI project. Also, I used a 3/4" thick Sani Seal elastomer rubber type of product in lieu of the traditional wax ring. Very easy to use and can be reused too. It has a tacky/sticky feel to it and seems incredibly strong/lasting product. There are many different thickness sizes available and also can be with or without the plastic cone attachments. Only a few dollars more than the old fashion wax ring (own a 1/2 dozen of these but doubtful I'll ever use them other than sealing around the flange as I recently did with the old wax ring). Other: drilling out the old lead and using a tool to lift it/pry it out is much better technique than trying to melt it out like another UA-camr did on his channel. Lead fumes are very toxic and harmful to your health. Good to see that you've got a much safer way of removing it.👍
The first thing I want to say is this was a life savor for me. I didn't even know the metal flange cover. Worked like a charm for me. So thank you for the video! Second, I have to agree with a few comments here: wear gloves and plug the hole! Last thing you want is that nasty wax going down the pipe. I don't know about the wax-less seals. I've read they break down sooner than the wax.
Thanks for the great video with all the details. I appreciate how you talked us through it with the details, like not cracking the porcelain, etc. Subbed.
A pvc spacer on top of that flange with a new wax ring. Would have been a better option. But job well done. There is more than one way to skin a cat. Or in this case repair a flange.
Well done. I did not get to see you remove the screws that originally held the flange to the subfloor. But you did show your replacement of the screws and that was well done, good job of problem solving there. Thank you. I'm subscribing.
Robert I really like your video, very detail , self explanatory , 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽I have exactly the same issue that my project for the weekend now I really feel confident , thank you so much 🙌🙌🙌
watch too many videos before I found yours that fit my issue and a lot less cost. Thank you for this video!!! Now I can use savings for spare car parts! LOL
One wear gloves to avoid septic poisoning. Two, cover the inside of the opening with heavy newspaper or rag wide out not to fall it and not have to smell the stuff.
It's a removable 1/4" flange riser on top of the flange itself. It's used to get the flange flush with the tiled floor. Securing the toilet to this plastic ring is not secure enough imo.
Looks like the flange is sitting slightly beneath the tile floor? This may be what caused the leak in the first place. Better fitment is to have it slightly above or flush with the tile floor.
I’m no pro but I’ve done a few of these in my ti e. I’ve always seen a couple nuts securing the bolts to the flange the another set to secure the toilet
I had to drill holes into concrete for my toilet and the screws had nothing to bite . I didnt have those plastic pieces so i dropped tooth picks in the holes and the flange is super secure
If there’s nothing under the black flange screws but dirt, then WHAT is holding your entire flange to the actual floor???? If it’s just the glue between the connections of the sewer pipe, then you’re risking later cracking EVERYTHING if people shift side to side on that a lot. You need a whole new flange and make sure it’s secure to SOLID SUBFLOOR under it!
I did this repair late on a Sunday night and wasn't thinking straight. That's my only explanation for not using gloves and not putting a rag inside the flange. My finger was not bandaged though and no open wound. I was attempting to treat a mallet finger injury with a finger splint.
This is what happens I guess when you shake your ass on the toilet trying to get those hanger ons to fall. I dont stop a wipen till its a whitten. Yes gloves and something to block the gas. A rag or cup is good. Heard those plastic seals are not that great compared to the wax. I mean it looks great but any Plumbers have there views on what sealer to use ? Also that flange attachment looks like it might lift the toilet to high. One of theose jobs thst may not last. 13:24
As a plumber, this is not professional at all.. I couldnt do that in a customers home. He already failed at no gloves removing the wax ring. Gross and uncalled for. thats a real mess.
Caulking around the toilet is actually part of International Plumbing Code. It is designed to keep water and anything else in the bathroom from seeping under the toilet and further secure the toilet. A leak inside is generally going down under the floor and not above and onto the flooring until it has already saturated everything else and has nowhere left to go.
@@RemodelWithRobert- The the code is stupid because I’ve seen more instances in the real world of a leak making itself known above the floor and out from under the front of the toilet before anything else.
@@RemodelWithRoberthorrible idea to caulk around a toilet. Toilet leaks, I want to know ASAP, not days or weeks later. Honestly, how often (never?) is your bathroom going to flood and inturn water getting underneath your toilet? This should be the last thing (or never?) you should be worrying about. Keeping water out or trying to secure your toilet from rocking/moving with silicone sounds like a really bad idea (poor install by half-ass installer). Perhaps shims, leveling your floor or ? is a better solution than caulking around a toilet. 👎
@@braindamage396literally you get water on the floor in a bathroom all the time from showers and baths, let alone sink splashes. You are supposed to caulk around toilets, you're wrong, and you can stop spouting horseshit.
Nice job! Would this work for cast iron as well? Also the bolt holes ended up being in same location? What happens if they're off a bit? Thank you so much. Check my page for my flange problem. Hopefully its just a bad wax ring on a low flange.
When the floor around the toilet flange is rotten, I am sorry but the right thing to do is bust that tile and replace the subflooring then retile also that old flange needs to be cut off and replaced with a twistNset flange, screw that to the flooring you just replaced, flush with the floor not below it then install the toilet with a wax ring.
No gloves, no worries. It exposes you to germs and such so your body will build its immune system to better fight off more threatening germs and viruses
It's a freaking toilet. All you glove people: hello Didn't you ever hear of 'soap'. The world is covered in shit and, sooner or later, you're gonna get some on ya.
First of all dude, WEAR GLOVES! That stuff is nasty and it only takes a second to tpuch your face or uou have a cut on your finger. So please glove up. Otherwise good video
Worked for me. And also I really like the elastomer (rubbery/sticky) Sani Seal toilet gasket/ring. Come in different thicknesses like wax rings too. Also, with or without a plastic cone. If you haven't tried one yet, I recommend that you do. There awesome. Also, unlike a wax ring these can be used over and over again.☮️
Just saw you remove the toilet and I can already tell you what the problem is: the flange sits below the tiles instead of slightly above them. Cheers.
Yep. I've seen that with bad remodeling jobs, where they just put the new floor tiles over the old tiles creating a gap.
Dude! Harbor Freight sells boxes of nitrile gloves cheap. There's no need to get your bare hands right in the fecal residue. Also, some people say it's better NOT to caulk around the toilet so you can detect any water leakage before you rot out your subfloor.
😂😂😂 hilarious
First, after moving the toilet, stuff something into the pipe to keep debris out and sewer gas in.
I installed one in my bathroom about 2 years ago (new flooring, vanity and sink project). No problems thus far. My old cast iron flange was 1/2" -3/4" below the level of the floor so I didn't bother to remove it. I was able to install the exact same plastic Oatey flange over the top of the existing cast iron flange. Kinda unique situation I suppose, but certainly saved myself a little time. Also, used the old wax ring to seal around the base of this replacement flange too. No silicone used.
Interesting that you too had a little difficulty with the screws securing/gripping to the wood. The angles pre-drilled on the plastic flange could be a little better to accommodate the screws. There's a little angle to them, but they could certainly be improved. Got about 4 or 5 into the wood, but missed on 1 or 2 others too.
Overall a pretty easy install. Very happy with the end result. No water or weird gas leaks either. Definitely hit a home run with this DYI project.
Also, I used a 3/4" thick Sani Seal elastomer rubber type of product in lieu of the traditional wax ring. Very easy to use and can be reused too. It has a tacky/sticky feel to it and seems incredibly strong/lasting product. There are many different thickness sizes available and also can be with or without the plastic cone attachments. Only a few dollars more than the old fashion wax ring (own a 1/2 dozen of these but doubtful I'll ever use them other than sealing around the flange as I recently did with the old wax ring).
Other: drilling out the old lead and using a tool to lift it/pry it out is much better technique than trying to melt it out like another UA-camr did on his channel. Lead fumes are very toxic and harmful to your health. Good to see that you've got a much safer way of removing it.👍
This is the first video I found explaining exactly how the bolts and washers should be placed. Thank you so much!
Is it safe to caulk around the toilet? caulking it will hide the water if you get another leak?
Its safe but maybe leave a small gap on front and back just in case
What kind of screws did you use. What brand and what type.
The first thing I want to say is this was a life savor for me. I didn't even know the metal flange cover. Worked like a charm for me. So thank you for the video! Second, I have to agree with a few comments here: wear gloves and plug the hole! Last thing you want is that nasty wax going down the pipe. I don't know about the wax-less seals. I've read they break down sooner than the wax.
Thanks for the great video with all the details. I appreciate how you talked us through it with the details, like not cracking the porcelain, etc. Subbed.
Thanks so much for the kind feedback!
bleach. pinesol, and latex gloves a must. Turn vent fan and plug drain pipe with damp rag or stopper. I prefer flange repair kits by Denco
A pvc spacer on top of that flange with a new wax ring. Would have been a better option. But job well done. There is more than one way to skin a cat. Or in this case repair a flange.
Well done. I did not get to see you remove the screws that originally held the flange to the subfloor. But you did show your replacement of the screws and that was well done, good job of problem solving there. Thank you. I'm subscribing.
Perfect- I was wondering if I could connect the replacement flange directly to the cast iron flange and you answered that. thanks- great video
Robert I really like your video, very detail , self explanatory , 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽I have exactly the same issue that my project for the weekend now I really feel confident , thank you so much 🙌🙌🙌
Dude just raw dogged that with no gloves, and then got shit all over his tools!😂
Ya disgusting😢
That groove in the bolts is there so that you can use pliers to break it off.
watch too many videos before I found yours that fit my issue and a lot less cost. Thank you for this video!!! Now I can use savings for spare car parts! LOL
One wear gloves to avoid septic poisoning. Two, cover the inside of the opening with heavy newspaper or rag wide out not to fall it and not have to smell the stuff.
100% correct. I didn't have my head on straight the day I was filming this.
@@RemodelWithRobert Confucius say, ..."man who have head on straight is pointed in the right direction to truth." 8-)
And "man who stands on toilet is high on pot"
Then, when you slip and fall on the wet porcelain and come to, you'll have a vision of the flux capacitor. Which is what makes time travel possible. 🚽
@@chrisbroemel5508😂😂
Very helpful. I will try to do this.
Thank you Robert. Very Helpful!
Thanks for watching!
Great job and video.
Thank you!
It's a removable 1/4" flange riser on top of the flange itself. It's used to get the flange flush with the tiled floor. Securing the toilet to this plastic ring is not secure enough imo.
Thank you for your information I am
having so much trouble with this issue.
Looks like the flange is sitting slightly beneath the tile floor? This may be what caused the leak in the first place. Better fitment is to have it slightly above or flush with the tile floor.
Flange look low , spacer?
Thank you so much. I'm a widow and I may just try this myself to save some money instead of hiring a plumber.
Thank you for making this video!!!
You are so welcome!
No groves. I hope you’re not preparing dinner after fixing the toilet.
Spell check helps.
@@kingtut6619he spelled “groves” correctly 😂
All good great thank you😮❤
Thank you for the video.
I’m no pro but I’ve done a few of these in my ti e. I’ve always seen a couple nuts securing the bolts to the flange the another set to secure the toilet
I had to drill holes into concrete for my toilet and the screws had nothing to bite . I didnt have those plastic pieces so i dropped tooth picks in the holes and the flange is super secure
If there’s nothing under the black flange screws but dirt, then WHAT is holding your entire flange to the actual floor???? If it’s just the glue between the connections of the sewer pipe, then you’re risking later cracking EVERYTHING if people shift side to side on that a lot. You need a whole new flange and make sure it’s secure to SOLID SUBFLOOR under it!
By drilling new holes in the flange, you are weakening it and guaranteeing that it will break under pressure.
Thanks for the video!
Great video, thanks!
Should have used stainless steel screws so that overtime those screws just don’t rot out
Two words: Gloves! One more word: Use them!
100%. I'm not sure where my mind was at but I would definitely tell anyone watching not to copy me in that regard
gloves, 2? use them, 1? my math must be off..... but i totally agree----holy hell......the bacteria and filth involved in this job if off the charts
@@RemodelWithRobert were you also eating a sandwich while working this job?
How bout the wrist hair? We not gonna comment? Can braid that!
Thanks, I believe I can do it!
Where are his gloves? Not a prima donna but raw sewage is dangerous. And he has a bandage on his finger already. Open wound! Be safe!
I did this repair late on a Sunday night and wasn't thinking straight. That's my only explanation for not using gloves and not putting a rag inside the flange. My finger was not bandaged though and no open wound. I was attempting to treat a mallet finger injury with a finger splint.
Hi Robert! You should consider making an appearance on your other channel. People are worried about you. Great content, by the way!
Thanks Gloria. I appreciate the support!
Need to use flat watcher ring and a nut to hold the bolts
Great job! Thanks.
Don't ever use the metal should be rust!!!
I have the exact same situation and this is going to be my plan of action as well. Thank you for the video. Looks great 👍
Awesome, good luck!
@@RemodelWithRobert I used this method and worked great. Thanks
@@RR31982is the fix still holding?
SAME! SO GLAD U SHARED THIS BRO
Good job
ILike that teacher
Yeah make sure when you doing that sticker rag in that hole which he didn't do 😂👍
And wear gloves! I dont know where my head was at that day 😂
This is what happens I guess when you shake your ass on the toilet trying to get those hanger ons to fall. I dont stop a wipen till its a whitten. Yes gloves and something to block the gas. A rag or cup is good. Heard those plastic seals are not that great compared to the wax. I mean it looks great but any Plumbers have there views on what sealer to use ? Also that flange attachment looks like it might lift the toilet to high. One of theose jobs thst may not last. 13:24
As a plumber, this is not professional at all.. I couldnt do that in a customers home. He already failed at no gloves removing the wax ring. Gross and uncalled for. thats a real mess.
Out of curiosity what would be the "professional" repair here?
@@JimJones-bp5iddynamite...lots of dynamite.💣💣💣
good thing you didn't learn to code bro. we need more professional plumbers
He should secure the screws to the flange before install the toilet. Definitely not a professional job.
My dad wouldn't let me work around his the toilet now I wish that he did so now I could would be able to do this
😊
please wear those blue rubber surgery gloves.
Heeeeeeey!! Long time no see, eh!
Happy 2022 my friend. Here is to more cooking and renovations in the new year!!
Don't ever caulk around your toilet, if it's leaking you won't know for awhile and it will rot the floor.
Caulking around the toilet is actually part of International Plumbing Code. It is designed to keep water and anything else in the bathroom from seeping under the toilet and further secure the toilet. A leak inside is generally going down under the floor and not above and onto the flooring until it has already saturated everything else and has nowhere left to go.
@@RemodelWithRobert- The the code is stupid because I’ve seen more instances in the real world of a leak making itself known above the floor and out from under the front of the toilet before anything else.
@@RemodelWithRoberthorrible idea to caulk around a toilet. Toilet leaks, I want to know ASAP, not days or weeks later.
Honestly, how often (never?) is your bathroom going to flood and inturn water getting underneath your toilet? This should be the last thing (or never?) you should be worrying about.
Keeping water out or trying to secure your toilet from rocking/moving with silicone sounds like a really bad idea (poor install by half-ass installer). Perhaps shims, leveling your floor or ? is a better solution than caulking around a toilet. 👎
@@braindamage396literally you get water on the floor in a bathroom all the time from showers and baths, let alone sink splashes. You are supposed to caulk around toilets, you're wrong, and you can stop spouting horseshit.
Why is this going to stop the leek! If the broken flansh still there!!😂
dude wear gloves and use a rag for the sewer gas.
Nice job! Would this work for cast iron as well? Also the bolt holes ended up being in same location? What happens if they're off a bit? Thank you so much. Check my page for my flange problem. Hopefully its just a bad wax ring on a low flange.
Miracle he didn't need antibiotics after this job glovefree😂😂😂
This was nauseating. The amount of touching and poking that ring is DISGUSTING!
once you drill the holes for the screws your going to crack or break the old bottem ring
Gloves, Dude. Gloves.
Gloves
Hey, 🍔 and 🌭 ready. Time to eat😅
When the floor around the toilet flange is rotten, I am sorry but the right thing to do is bust that tile and replace the subflooring then retile also that old flange needs to be cut off and replaced with a twistNset flange, screw that to the flooring you just replaced, flush with the floor not below it then install the toilet with a wax ring.
This is a concrete slab. The oatey ring did bring it up flush with the tile and it has since been secure.
No gloves wtf
Be a man wtf
No gloves, no worries. It exposes you to germs and such so your body will build its immune system to better fight off more threatening germs and viruses
Wear gloves dude!😂
No excuses, didnt have my head on straight this day. Also forgot to emphasize putting a rag in the drain.
Hope you cleaned the fecal matter off your camera and tools.
It's a freaking toilet. All you glove people: hello Didn't you ever hear of 'soap'. The world is covered in shit and, sooner or later, you're gonna get some on ya.
Its disgusting, you have to wear gloves!!!!!!
Must have missed it but never saw him put the new wax ring on...oh well, he must have or it would have leaked.
At the 15:20 mark I reset the universal rubber ring, which substitutes for a traditional wax ring
@@RemodelWithRobert Oh I C, thanks...
Man you are going through all that trouble to pull out the toilet and not replace the flange ? , gloves and a garbage bag for all that junk 😅 YIKES 😮
First of all dude, WEAR GLOVES! That stuff is nasty and it only takes a second to tpuch your face or uou have a cut on your finger. So please glove up. Otherwise good video
I watched this 2.5 years ago and it did NOT WORK! Do NOT buy this, go with the wax ring!
Worked for me. And also I really like the elastomer (rubbery/sticky) Sani Seal toilet gasket/ring. Come in different thicknesses like wax rings too. Also, with or without a plastic cone. If you haven't tried one yet, I recommend that you do. There awesome. Also, unlike a wax ring these can be used over and over again.☮️
GLOVES!!!!!! WTF
No gloves… 🤮
Pumbers never wear gloves. Grosses me out too, but at the same time, as a working man myself, I get it.
Wow dude your bare hand lol 🤮