Sounds about right. Back in the early 90s, I bought three 1 ton Ford chassis. When I looked at them, there was oil in the radiators. There was a guy standing around there, letting everyone know it like he was doing them a favor. I looked them over and it just didn’t lol right. It wasn’t milky like it should be. I bought all three and later found out that someone had poured oil in the radiator in an attempt them cheap.
my theory was I was gonna get it or they were going to pay full retail for it. I assumed the other bidder was the shop that handled the estimate. I think they knew how light the hit was and also new it had a clear title and planned to steal it back from the auction cheep.
Great Video!! I like that you show everything being done. Sad about the Copart sabotage but I'm not surprised in the least. I think it happens more than is ever said.
I like the contrast of having a bit of chrome or contrasting color (like the grey in the grill). All black (or all single-color) is boring - reminds me of the late 1980's into the 90's. Putting a little bit of contrast makes the vehicle more interesting to me. But, to each his own.
@@VincentMartens93 , mine was fine up until earlier this year. I let it sit at my house while I was in California working for six months in 2021, and it didn’t rattle when I started it. I was in Illinois driving it every day, and I started it one morning and it had the rattle. I’ve seen videos of trucks with 30,000 miles that have the rattle and other trucks make it over 100,000. My brother has a 2013 platinum that still has the original cam phasers, not a single rattle. I think it’s just like anything else, just depends on when and where they were made. Ford is always trying to find ways to make things cheaper.
I've been Welding for over 36 years. And I can say your right. Always unplug any thing Batteries and grounding the building your working in to save the phone lines and computers.
There’s a lot of shady stuff happening with the tow companies that pickup for Copart. They steal the keys then they disconnect wires or pull fuses so that you can’t start it. Then they buy it cheap and have the key and put fuses back in and off they go. This has happened to me I bought a van and talked to original owner he said it was running when he sent to auction with tow company in Lansing Michigan. But then there was no keys and when I got it they had removed the hitch that he told me he just had installed and also the trailer wiring and the fuses for ecu were also pulled so it wouldn’t start. Real shady. Be careful guys!
@@stevesolt4036yep it’s not hard if the customer tells Copart there is a key and when the tow company brings the car with no key, hold them accountable or stop doing business with them.
There's a guy on u tube who straightens frames on 18 wheelers with a huge frame machine he has a stick with a little pointing hand on the end of it.😂 cant remember his name though.
Nice, looked like a fairly simple fix. I have a 2019 XLT sport FX4. A couple of years ago I got into a fender bender at less than 5mph. I got the same area on the bumper but mine didn’t get into the grill or lights. The body shop took it apart and replaced the bumper, the right side fog light and housing, the 2 plastic covers, the vent that cools the headlight, and the intercooler. They estimated that to cost 3800 bucks, for a less than 5 mph bump. The person from the insurance company said if it had gotten into the grill, lights, or fenders, it would have totaled the truck.
So far this ones a clean title from Wisconsin. Unfortunately Iowa has different rules. The state is reviewing the title to see if it will go salvage or not in Iowa. Hoping it stays clear. and yes there's the rattle but it only seems to do it after sitting for a week or so. i threw an oil change in it to see if it helps over time. I plan on putting some miles on it this week. If not then ill tear into the motor. Only has 50K on it. hard to believe its bad already
@@Shouse-life , I’ve heard of them going bad at 30,000, but mine waited until 84,000. Luckily I have the Ford extended service plan, so it cost me 100 bucks. Last year they rebuilt my transmission and replaced the module for the infotainment system, among other things. But just the transmission and the APIM would have been close to 10K if you pay out of pocket. I know the cam phaser replacement is 3K to 4K.
Yeah well chrome won't git ya home, but ya sure look good shinning in the bar ditch ! Oh well to each his own. This is the first damn time I've seen you on here and now I'm scribed so your stuck with me. If your stupid enough to make these videos,,, I'm stupid enough to watch you. Keep up the good work and if anyone ask, you haven't seen me.
From the rust on the bumper and the rubbed up plastic parts on the front , this truck looks to have hit and/or brushed a retaining wall. Doesn’t look like it was too hard of a hit though. Good find and someone wanted that truck for cheaper than what it would’ve went for with just the body damage!!! Also, they wanted any other buyers to be scared off by the secondary mechanical issue thatwent along with the body damage. I’m sure it happens a lot at all places that do auctions!!!
@@Shouse-life rattle on cold startup is almost always cam phaser issues. Oil drains out of the phaser when it sits unused. They rattle until the oil system comes up to pressure and refills the phasers.
I’m starting on the Nissan rogue Monday that I picked up during this build. I think that one’s going to win for the easiest build yet. You’ll have to watch that one. Thanks for the nice comment.
Hey from accross the pond. We use a brain saver (From Snap on) across the battrey Terminals. it's just a cable with a box of gummins in the middle. We found, on older cars, that we would loose the pin numbers in the steereos ddisconecting the battery, so this was the best solution. Lovin the channel.
completely agree with the battery disconnection when welding. personally never had any issues as i disconnect the battery but i have seen others create issues from fried modules to killing batteries (brand new batteries with no damage) to burnt ground wires. i will do a weld or two on the exhaust if its beyond halfway of the run figure there's enough resistance to prevent damage and keep the ground close to the work area. but beyond that just disconnect the battery i know people who have never disconnected the battery for 40+ years never had an issue and some who first time they touched a vehicle with a welder caused all sorts of issues its luck is all just play it safe a disco it save the hassle and potential of paying to fix something that you broke.
Same stories I heard/ Keep the ground close to the weld. But like I said I dont trust it. only takes 2 minutes to disconnect a standard battery. Some cars are more involved though. Thanks for the comment
So love that T-Top Mustang. Been trying to find 1. Found 2 4yrs ago they were Roller kits. They wouldn't come off 10.5k other 12k. I had 9.3k cash they wouldn't sell. So I found my 2nd favorite car with T-Tops. Firebird. I know I am still looking for a Stang with T-Tops. Wish they would come back out with T-Tops again.
We bought the 86 probably 10 years ago. One of those barn find deals. Paid 1500 for it. It was a mess. Completely disassembled and stripped the car to metal. Started all over. It’s been quite the headache but I’m gaining on it slowly. I see quite a few that are good price on the Facebook fox body pages. Keep looking. You’ll find it.
When I was coming up there were a lot of dirt lots that would buy similar vehicles then sell them for 10% - 20% less than retail and let customers know they were fixed vehicles. As long as no salvage branding. My mother bought a Datsun 410 GX that way. Thing ran until I killed it in my teenage years. Paid her back for it. lol.
Stumbled upon this, some nice info and stuff I didnt think of when it came to some of the repairs. Basically got to do the same exact repairs on an older f150 with the front bumper, frame and bumper bracket.
Great job on the save and putting back on the road (if it were me, I would have kept the sport decals, but that's just my preference.... I like they way they are 'original only once')
Duracell piece of crap ??? That’s all I buy. Used to get 2-3 years in my Harley’s out a standard battery from the dealership. Batteries plus here in Michigan sells Duracell and I’ve got 4 years on the oldest one. I like em. Maybe I got a freak.
I picked one up from batteries and bulbs here for my SXS. It was junk in less then a year. Honestly tho most batteries are poorly made these days. Seams like if they go dead once they never come back
Welding is extremely electrically noisy, I've even fried a voltage regulator in a flashlight I was using, just from being in proximity. Luckily, cars are pretty electrically noisy themselves, so they're built somewhat tolerant.
Nice guy was likely the one who did it thinking nobody would bid high on a non running car 🧐 the fact he hung around to see if you would figure it out or if not offer you price paid ???? 😅
Man I live in northern Ontario and I've been driving a 2 wheel drive truck for the last 10 years I've never been stuck once I drive it 5 days a week to work As long as you got a decent set of tires on the back It makes it through the snow just fine.
Experienced people are capable of that. Have you met the people in this world lately lol. From a rebuilder standpoint there’s two trucks you don’t buy. 2wd or crew cab long boxes. They’re super difficult to sell.
Technically it wasn’t totalled. The title is a clear Wisconsin title. Problem is we live 15 minutes from Iowa. The state is reviewing the claim to decide if it will go salvage if sold to someone in Iowa. They have different rules compared to every other state. Still waiting on there decision.
Oh forgot what I was going to say after I saw the Stang. Anyways yes always I repeat always disconnect the battery on vehicles 2000 on up before welding. It will mess up the computers if you don't. Cause because the ground is connected to the frame. When welding the electric welder it sparks sometimes somewhere on the frame. Won't see it cause of the brightness but it does.
Nice F150! I bought a new F150 XL STX 2x4 back in 2017. 2.7 Ecoboost. So far, so good. I've been reading and seeing a lot of stuff about problems with these Ecoboost engines as they age. In hindsight, I should have tried for an identical Truck but with the base 3.5 Naturally Aspirated. That's still 250 HP which would have been just fine. I've been hearing about Problems with the oil-pump mech.
It’s tough to decide what’s good anymore. I have the 5.0 in my 13 f150. Love the truck as long as I’m not towing heavy stuff. I havnt driven a 2.7 yet.
I bought a low mileage 99 Firebird Convertible from an car collector estate auction that had some front right collision damage but no blown airbags. Claimed keys were missing so it was listed as "does not run/salvage title". I won the auction CHEAP, and when I went to check to see if it had a locking gas cap before loading it...well well well...the keys including the key fob were inside the gas door! I used a jump box to jump it off and DROVE it on my trailer. Hood, headlight assembly, bumper, fender, radiator, and part of the radiator core support later it was back on the road. I did good on selling that car, but the 80 Trans Am I bought there bit me in the rear because it was listed as CLEAR TITLE...but it wasn't so clear. After waiting four months on the title, the auction house had to admit the car had a QUADRUPLE TRANSFER...the penalties and transfers owed on the car were four times what I paid for it. I had already blown money and time getting it running and driving so I took the hickey. I've had some good deals and bad deals with my car flippin.
You're smart to disconnect battery when welding and you're also placing the ground clamp very near where you're welding. Both good practices. I don't have first-hand experience, but have heard that you can damage computers even with the battery disconnected if you have the ground clamp at one end of vehicle and are welding at other end. Since it takes very little effort to disconnect battery and keep ground clamp close I do it just to be safe.
Just another short bed grocery getter/ mom's taxi!!! My old 96 f250/2door/8ft.bed/XL will still be working when that one goes to the CRUSHER!!!!!!!!!!!
Always disconnect battery before doing any welding. Also when doing things you don't need power. These new vehicles have so many sensors and wires that you could accidentally cut and short out that could destroy computers. Expensive cars have more than one computer.
My first thought was safety not sabotage. This took a good front end hit and the driver side airbags went off. Maybe they disconnected it to prevent the rest of the airbags going off after being bumped on a trailer or moved around with a loader potentially hurting a person like you that was looking at it in the auction yard.
Nice truck!!! U. Got a good 1. Way to go. Lol. 1. Time I bought a car for 25.00. Guy told me. Motor seized up. Lol. I payed. Rolled it down to road. Pulled off road got under it took bar slammed the starter. Herd the CLICK. Go in. starts right up. Took it home cleaned it up 2 days later sold it for 2700. He he he. 😊 felt bad so I took a case of beer an gave it to the old owner. 😊
Nice video bro! First time watching. Wonder if you’d consider talking about what you paid at copart bid and the parts costs to give a comparison to current 2018 ones so people can see the savigg by a of DIY.
I had a buddy that bought a truck just like that! He did a rear door and boxside panel,then came the paint. Code was for Tuxedo Black,he is thick sometimes and he figured black is black,I tried to tell him.
Even black isn’t black. I had to respray a truck a few years ago because my black was blacker than the factory black. Ended up having to blend into the rear door to correct it. That truck had 4 variances for that code. Painting sucks some days.
Wish it was bigger. And it might be in the future. The frame machine wasn’t ever suppose to be here. Plans were to have it at another shop close to me but that fell through. Hopefully an addition is in out future.
It’s actually drywall. My last shop was steel lined ceiling and walls. Literally couldn’t have a conversation unless you were looking at the person you were talking to. The echo was so bad. I opted for the drywall in this shop. It sucked to do as I did all the mudding and taping and sanding and priming and painting. But with the 17’ ceilings I couldn’t find anyone to do it. So I did it myself. No regrets after it was done.
hi, ive seen on other YT's channels, some people disconnect or remove relays to disable the cars so it sales of cheaper and put of some buyers. after all a non running car its sometimes worth lest is it not?
Cant say I havnt done it myself back in the day when we physically went to the auction and bid on them live. a friend wanted a Ford Escort so I popped the hood and switched two spark plug wires. They started the car before bidding and it rattled like crazy. He won the car dirt cheap. We switched the wires back and drove it home lol. Ahh the good ole days
@@Shouse-life A friend and I looked at a Maserati Biturbo a guy had for sale. Great shape, smooth V6, Want 10k. Good price but too high for us. He mentions it's going into an auction on the weekend A week later we're at the auction and the car is brought in running like crap. Stalled twice, had to be pushed off after bidding. No one wanted it. Without the motor it was only good for scrap weight or parts. Sat at 500 till final call. Bid against one guy. 600, 700 and on until 1400 when he gave up. Paid 2000 in the end with fees. What he didn't know is we had seen him playing under the hood at the preview along side the assistant auctioneer and had driven the car less than a week before. Or that we had met the owner and had his number. The auction house found out when the guy sued them for fraud. They seemed to have had a track record of similar complaints. He got paid out plus damages, the auction changed names and I got the car and a great deal on a boat (he owned a boat dealership.)
@@Shouse-life yeah heart the rattle when you first started it up. Make sure you get the updated phasers, they are thinker and have better springs in them.
Nope. A lot of people heard it lol. When these trucks sit at auction for months without running the timing chain tensioners bleed off pressure. So when they start they rattle for a quick second until the oil pressure satisfies the tensioner pressure. I may have to put tensioners and chain guides in it before I sell it but my mechanic suggested an oil change and put so e Miles on it to see if the tensioners come back around. It’s common on the ecoboost. But if it doesn’t shut up I will fix it.
What type of education would you recommend for someone who'd like to learn your trade? With a slightly higher than average knowledge base for auto mechanics where would someone begin to start down the path towards a skilled Mechanic? Thanks. Truly enjoyed!
If you’re after an actual education then I’d look into trade schools. There’s plenty of options around the U.S. UNOH in Ohio is one of the best. A friend of mines boy is attending there. Loves it. Travels the U.S as a put crew member for ARCA races through the school. I’m sure there’s something local for you but if you’re young enough to take the plunge I would def recommend while you can. I myself attended trade school for HVAC. Auto body was just always a hobby that turned into my day business. I’m mostly self taught. I worked at a body shop when I was young before college. He taught me to paint. I took it from there. Hope it helps. Like I said if you’re able to do it at what ever age you are then do it.
@Shouse-life Appreciate the feedback. My teen years were spent taping/covering trim and lots of Bondo sanding work on vehicles followed by learning basic vehicle repairs as needed by owning used cars out of warranty. My point is I have a basic understanding but with modern vehicles, it's all tech which is where I'm lacking. I'm hoping to train in a new craft after 19 years as a construction worker/Boiler Maker in S Louisiana. It's becoming more challenging and automotive repair and bodywork are the other trades I'm somewhat knowledgeable on. So thanks again.
I agree. I could never justify buying a new truck. I have family in CA. I e done builders for them in the past. They Fly in and drive them home. One of my customers drove one of my builders to Oregon for his daughter. I’m not sure it was worth the trouble but they were happy. I’m in Wisconsin/ Iowa area so it wasn’t a short haul.
Typical 3.5 timing chain issues. It was sitting for a few months without being started. Hoping a fresh oil change and some miles will clean them up. Its only done it twice so far. One was the first start after sitting at the auction as you heard. The second was after sitting for 2 weeks while we were on vacation. we''ll see.
I did look under the truck when it was on the trailer. Not on camera, obviously. But I wasn’t concerned. I figured the mechanical was the battery being disconnected, which I was right.
Did you have any problems getting that deployed airbag out? I tried to get a steering wheel from the junkyard with a deployed airbag, and I couldn't get the little clips to disengage. All the UA-cam videos made it look so easy, but after an hour, I gave up.
If I was keeping it I would put different wheels on it all together. But as a flip I don’t think I would get that investment back. It might help sell it but you’re just losing 2k in the end. My opinion anyways.
Yeah , I guess somebody was upset that their new fifty thousand mile truck Makes a noise.That sounds like it's blown up when you start it from the phaser ford junk
Why would you take the stickers off and changed emblems and stuff if going to sell. Maybe they wanted that sport sticker left on and like the original emblems.
I think it helps to make them stand out from all the other trucks on marketplace. I did the same to a 19 F150 Last year. I had multiple people wanting that truck the day I listed it. I also had a set of nicer wheels on that one though. Just my 2 cents.
2 reasons. 1, I don’t really like decals or emblems. If I could remove the emblems without having holes in the fenders I would. 2. It was actually only on the drivers side. Passenger side was gone. I didn’t see any signs of repair or paintwork on that side so I’m not sure why it wasn’t there. Oh well.
Depends on the wheel offset. If you put roller skate wheels on they hit. Had it on my 19. Bought them off marketplace. Didn’t realize the offset. Oh well. They’re still in that truck. New owner loves them.
I love how everyone tries to think someone at copart would sabotage the cars at auction. 90% of the people who recieve the cars have no clue about cars. Id know i work there
Never said it was a copart employee. I know most of them know nothing about cars. I think the shop that wrote the estimate did it before it left knowing it was easy fix and clean title. If I didn’t bid it would have sold for 12k. There was only one other bidder against me and it was a pure sale
It’s a little goofy. It’s a clear Wisconsin title right now. But we live right next to Iowa and they have a rule that if you buy a car owned by an insurance company it has to go salvage. I’m waiting on them to review the paperwork and see if they’re going to salvage it. I could sell it in any other state as clear but if someone brings it to Iowa later it could go salvage. Clean retail is around 30k. I’m less than 20 in it.
i'd unplug EVERYTHING that's not isolate from whatever it is you're welding on, EVERYTHING and anything, believe it or not these F150 tail lamps are $5000 EACH! shyt younot they have all the fine compenents for lane sensing and radar components for active cruise control.. and why you cannot buy this stuff separate is a mystery to me . . if you love these trucks and yours is autlitiya d its fully loaded? by another one thats base model for off roading . . OR swap out a set of XLT tail lamps when your brush jumping . . and YES they were clever enough to insure these sensors and radar gear cannot bolt up to an XLT tail lamp, hmm.... imagine that took one right out of apples playbook.. "oh you need a larger hard drive, yea, only proprietary apple drives will work, oh yea we got em, like 10 times what the industry standards cost but hey they do have a mac serial number on em" ... anyone who thinks these manufacturers do NOT make and install parts designed to fail within certain time frames welp they beat you up, since oh prolly the early alternator days? then when FI rolled around it gave them a veritable duck shoot pf components they can time delay fail .. oh yea see the generators they used to put in these were eventually designed to fail with "wear" points, until some genius came up with a brainstorm an alternator that would never wear, fail or do weird shit like blow bulbs and roast coils... but they made so much selling OEM generators it was going to be a big ol' financial hit, so the engineers got busy how to make R/R's that can fail at certain points in a lifetime.. oh yea, then when that was overridden by third party voltage regulators they began installing them internally to defeat people from installing better third party.. now they have digital everything? oh bay, they can access your car wirelessly or using satellites and welp, burn any resistor or capacitor they so desire.. lil' more current on that trace to smoke the board .. lol . . . sure why not, they're cheap, $250 is nothing .. question is why didn't they just go ahead and make them $350 ECUs and WATERPROOF THEM! and when twillout corrupt government mandate that ALL vehicles sold new in flood hurracene area sbe WATERPROOF! waterproof them all FFS, it's not that difficult hale you're already there use better penetration seals, waterproof connectors, waterproof controllers and ECUs, REAL ones not "splash proof ffs" . . . lamps the orks, specially the cabins, dunno bout you guys but I want a waterproof cabin as well, some are by nature, but the entire rigg was waterproof we wouldn't have lots and lots and lots and lots full of flood damage vehicles across the country, in the day cars and trucks could handle a flood, dry it out and go! no today, all that sensitive electronics they don't care to protect? I mean on a 4 X 4? yea i'd never think of crossing a river or a creek with one . . don't bother waterproofing anything . . the fuggen corvette is more waterproof than most 4x4's what gives? I'll tell ya what gives, teh people take it bending over, then ask for more... stop buyign theshyt and let em know why
Sounds about right. Back in the early 90s, I bought three 1 ton Ford chassis. When I looked at them, there was oil in the radiators.
There was a guy standing around there, letting everyone know it like he was doing them a favor.
I looked them over and it just didn’t lol right. It wasn’t milky like it should be.
I bought all three and later found out that someone had poured oil in the radiator in an attempt them cheap.
That’s a good one. We use to switch spark plug wires back in the day. lol
Someone tried to get it cheap, but you out bid them.
my theory was I was gonna get it or they were going to pay full retail for it. I assumed the other bidder was the shop that handled the estimate. I think they knew how light the hit was and also new it had a clear title and planned to steal it back from the auction cheep.
Great Video!! I like that you show everything being done. Sad about the Copart sabotage but I'm not surprised in the least. I think it happens more than is ever said.
Definitely, I've seen countless cars with the keys missing, that's a common one unfortunately, people steal the keys of the one they want to buy
I like the contrast of having a bit of chrome or contrasting color (like the grey in the grill). All black (or all single-color) is boring - reminds me of the late 1980's into the 90's. Putting a little bit of contrast makes the vehicle more interesting to me. But, to each his own.
Forgot to say, from the sound of that start up, sounds like it has the dreaded cam phaser rattle. Just had mine fixed a few months ago.
Exactly what I heard too
def getting close for a timing job.
It was so painfully obvious.
Although the engine might have been sitting for a year. Most engines rattle once all the oil sets back over a loooong time.
@@VincentMartens93 , mine was fine up until earlier this year. I let it sit at my house while I was in California working for six months in 2021, and it didn’t rattle when I started it. I was in Illinois driving it every day, and I started it one morning and it had the rattle. I’ve seen videos of trucks with 30,000 miles that have the rattle and other trucks make it over 100,000. My brother has a 2013 platinum that still has the original cam phasers, not a single rattle. I think it’s just like anything else, just depends on when and where they were made. Ford is always trying to find ways to make things cheaper.
Amazing video! I love your attention to detail and quality of work! Excellent job. Keep the wonderful content coming!
Thanks, Glad you enjoyed it!
I've been Welding for over 36 years. And I can say your right. Always unplug any thing Batteries and grounding the building your working in to save the phone lines and computers.
I’ve never considered the building side of it. Good thinking.
Never disconnected anything in my life. Have yet to cause a single issue.
With all this computer c*** in vehicles today I think you're crazy not to unplug it.
@@ShainAndrews not even the battery??
Ну это в основном рекомендация для tig , хотя я много варил и тоже с электронной ничего не случилось , больше вероятность что можно поджечь машину
There’s a lot of shady stuff happening with the tow companies that pickup for Copart. They steal the keys then they disconnect wires or pull fuses so that you can’t start it. Then they buy it cheap and have the key and put fuses back in and off they go. This has happened to me I bought a van and talked to original owner he said it was running when he sent to auction with tow company in Lansing Michigan. But then there was no keys and when I got it they had removed the hitch that he told me he just had installed and also the trailer wiring and the fuses for ecu were also pulled so it wouldn’t start. Real shady. Be careful guys!
It does suck but if you had the access to do it and buy them cheap? Would ya? Kind of like insider trader info on the stock market lol.
@@Shouse-lifeI would not, it’s unethical. People have no integrity today.
No because that’s not being honest but of course a whole lot of people got rich or got to the life style that they have by doing dishonest stuff
Time for Copart to do some stings
@@stevesolt4036yep it’s not hard if the customer tells Copart there is a key and when the tow company brings the car with no key, hold them accountable or stop doing business with them.
I watch a lot of auto repair and shop videos and never saw a guy who owns a frame machine. Wow, that's a first. Nice work on the truck.
It's definitely a good tool to have/ its worth the $1000 I gave for it. Just takes up so much room though.Thanks for the comment
@@Shouse-life Only gave 1,000? you stole that thing! Good video.
There's a guy on u tube who straightens frames on 18 wheelers with a huge frame machine he has a stick with a little pointing hand on the end of it.😂 cant remember his name though.
Harry Handy
I have 2 and a pulling bar, you usually see them in collision shops. I bought mine used cheap 50 years ago.
Nice, looked like a fairly simple fix. I have a 2019 XLT sport FX4. A couple of years ago I got into a fender bender at less than 5mph. I got the same area on the bumper but mine didn’t get into the grill or lights. The body shop took it apart and replaced the bumper, the right side fog light and housing, the 2 plastic covers, the vent that cools the headlight, and the intercooler. They estimated that to cost 3800 bucks, for a less than 5 mph bump. The person from the insurance company said if it had gotten into the grill, lights, or fenders, it would have totaled the truck.
So far this ones a clean title from Wisconsin. Unfortunately Iowa has different rules. The state is reviewing the title to see if it will go salvage or not in Iowa. Hoping it stays clear. and yes there's the rattle but it only seems to do it after sitting for a week or so. i threw an oil change in it to see if it helps over time. I plan on putting some miles on it this week. If not then ill tear into the motor. Only has 50K on it. hard to believe its bad already
@@Shouse-life , I’ve heard of them going bad at 30,000, but mine waited until 84,000. Luckily I have the Ford extended service plan, so it cost me 100 bucks. Last year they rebuilt my transmission and replaced the module for the infotainment system, among other things. But just the transmission and the APIM would have been close to 10K if you pay out of pocket. I know the cam phaser replacement is 3K to 4K.
Yeah well chrome won't git ya home, but ya sure look good shinning in the bar ditch ! Oh well to each his own. This is the first damn time I've seen you on here and now I'm scribed so your stuck with me. If your stupid enough to make these videos,,, I'm stupid enough to watch you. Keep up the good work and if anyone ask, you haven't seen me.
From the rust on the bumper and the rubbed up plastic parts on the front , this truck looks to have hit and/or brushed a retaining wall. Doesn’t look like it was too hard of a hit though. Good find and someone wanted that truck for cheaper than what it would’ve went for with just the body damage!!! Also, they wanted any other buyers to be scared off by the secondary mechanical issue thatwent along with the body damage. I’m sure it happens a lot at all places that do auctions!!!
@@Shouse-life rattle on cold startup is almost always cam phaser issues. Oil drains out of the phaser when it sits unused. They rattle until the oil system comes up to pressure and refills the phasers.
Very nice. Glad you went with the STX grille too as I think it looks better than the one that was on it.
Yeah it was a lot cheaper than buying a new one
It really doesn't get much easier then this one. You did a great job on it.
I’m starting on the Nissan rogue Monday that I picked up during this build. I think that one’s going to win for the easiest build yet. You’ll have to watch that one. Thanks for the nice comment.
You did a very nice job on the truck.
It needed some work but it came out nice!
Just found your channel and subscribed! Love seeing that t-top fox body
Nice work!
That turned out well.
There’s always a weird problem we don’t expect,
That left wheel hub was unexpected.
You handled all of it well.
Thanks for the kind words!
Hey from accross the pond. We use a brain saver (From Snap on) across the battrey Terminals. it's just a cable with a box of gummins in the middle. We found, on older cars, that we would loose the pin numbers in the steereos ddisconecting the battery, so this was the best solution. Lovin the channel.
I remember those stereos. I often wondered why they had the PIN numbers. I mean who really wants to steel a factory radio?
I remember (way back when) when it took 3 men and 2 mules to lift up a bumper and put it on.
That bastard was still heavy. If there was someone else to help I wouldn’t have said no to them. But stuff needs to get done.
@@Shouse-life Yep, I know what your saying, I have to replace the bumper on my Ram 1500 (rear) and It's steel, lol.
completely agree with the battery disconnection when welding. personally never had any issues as i disconnect the battery but i have seen others create issues from fried modules to killing batteries (brand new batteries with no damage) to burnt ground wires. i will do a weld or two on the exhaust if its beyond halfway of the run figure there's enough resistance to prevent damage and keep the ground close to the work area. but beyond that just disconnect the battery i know people who have never disconnected the battery for 40+ years never had an issue and some who first time they touched a vehicle with a welder caused all sorts of issues its luck is all just play it safe a disco it save the hassle and potential of paying to fix something that you broke.
Same stories I heard/ Keep the ground close to the weld. But like I said I dont trust it. only takes 2 minutes to disconnect a standard battery. Some cars are more involved though. Thanks for the comment
So love that T-Top Mustang. Been trying to find 1. Found 2 4yrs ago they were Roller kits. They wouldn't come off 10.5k other 12k. I had 9.3k cash they wouldn't sell. So I found my 2nd favorite car with T-Tops. Firebird. I know I am still looking for a Stang with T-Tops. Wish they would come back out with T-Tops again.
We bought the 86 probably 10 years ago. One of those barn find deals. Paid 1500 for it. It was a mess. Completely disassembled and stripped the car to metal. Started all over. It’s been quite the headache but I’m gaining on it slowly. I see quite a few that are good price on the Facebook fox body pages. Keep looking. You’ll find it.
That's my kind of deals, I never get... good looking truck
Good repair and Cosmetic improvement. Nice Truck!
When I was coming up there were a lot of dirt lots that would buy similar vehicles then sell them for 10% - 20% less than retail and let customers know they were fixed vehicles. As long as no salvage branding. My mother bought a Datsun 410 GX that way. Thing ran until I killed it in my teenage years. Paid her back for it. lol.
Stumbled upon this, some nice info and stuff I didnt think of when it came to some of the repairs. Basically got to do the same exact repairs on an older f150 with the front bumper, frame and bumper bracket.
Great job on the save and putting back on the road (if it were me, I would have kept the sport decals, but that's just my preference.... I like they way they are 'original only once')
I'm not much for decals myself, But honestly the Sport sticker was only on the drivers side. The passenger side was already gone. Not sure why
Duracell piece of crap ??? That’s all I buy. Used to get 2-3 years in my Harley’s out a standard battery from the dealership. Batteries plus here in Michigan sells Duracell and I’ve got 4 years on the oldest one. I like em. Maybe I got a freak.
I picked one up from batteries and bulbs here for my SXS. It was junk in less then a year. Honestly tho most batteries are poorly made these days. Seams like if they go dead once they never come back
Duracell is junk. Harley riders: ua-cam.com/video/FDsWZ0Jw3Ik/v-deo.html
WOW very good file or keep for a season - cool content thanks for the clip.
Appreciate that, Glad you enjoyed it.
Did you say some little chicky poo? LMAO 😂🤣 that's awesome
Welding is extremely electrically noisy, I've even fried a voltage regulator in a flashlight I was using, just from being in proximity. Luckily, cars are pretty electrically noisy themselves, so they're built somewhat tolerant.
sooooo what did you pay for it? and repairs? Well tell us after you sell it!
Very nice find and a great job bringing it back!
Even tho most circuits are protected by fuses and diodes dont risk it ! Besides the battery ground should always be removed when working on it anyway
Nice guy was likely the one who did it thinking nobody would bid high on a non running car 🧐 the fact he hung around to see if you would figure it out or if not offer you price paid ???? 😅
Man I live in northern Ontario and I've been driving a 2 wheel drive truck for the last 10 years I've never been stuck once I drive it 5 days a week to work As long as you got a decent set of tires on the back It makes it through the snow just fine.
Experienced people are capable of that. Have you met the people in this world lately lol. From a rebuilder standpoint there’s two trucks you don’t buy. 2wd or crew cab long boxes. They’re super difficult to sell.
Looks nice I hope you repair it and enjoy the ride 😊
We will. Thanks
I can't believe that little bit of damaged that the insurance totaled it.
Technically it wasn’t totalled. The title is a clear Wisconsin title. Problem is we live 15 minutes from Iowa. The state is reviewing the claim to decide if it will go salvage if sold to someone in Iowa. They have different rules compared to every other state. Still waiting on there decision.
Oh forgot what I was going to say after I saw the Stang. Anyways yes always I repeat always disconnect the battery on vehicles 2000 on up before welding. It will mess up the computers if you don't. Cause because the ground is connected to the frame. When welding the electric welder it sparks sometimes somewhere on the frame. Won't see it cause of the brightness but it does.
Nice F150! I bought a new F150 XL STX 2x4 back in 2017. 2.7 Ecoboost. So far, so good. I've been reading and seeing a lot of stuff about problems with these Ecoboost engines as they age. In hindsight, I should have tried for an identical Truck but with the base 3.5 Naturally Aspirated. That's still 250 HP which would have been just fine. I've been hearing about Problems with the oil-pump mech.
It’s tough to decide what’s good anymore. I have the 5.0 in my 13 f150. Love the truck as long as I’m not towing heavy stuff. I havnt driven a 2.7 yet.
The days o packing wheel bearings are over…..it can be done but now it R&R…parts and labor if you don’t want to do it or have the tools or skill….
I bought a low mileage 99 Firebird Convertible from an car collector estate auction that had some front right collision damage but no blown airbags. Claimed keys were missing so it was listed as "does not run/salvage title". I won the auction CHEAP, and when I went to check to see if it had a locking gas cap before loading it...well well well...the keys including the key fob were inside the gas door! I used a jump box to jump it off and DROVE it on my trailer. Hood, headlight assembly, bumper, fender, radiator, and part of the radiator core support later it was back on the road. I did good on selling that car, but the 80 Trans Am I bought there bit me in the rear because it was listed as CLEAR TITLE...but it wasn't so clear. After waiting four months on the title, the auction house had to admit the car had a QUADRUPLE TRANSFER...the penalties and transfers owed on the car were four times what I paid for it. I had already blown money and time getting it running and driving so I took the hickey. I've had some good deals and bad deals with my car flippin.
I should do a video on all the auction stories I’ve heard and experienced over the years plus all the new stories from the comments from my videos.
You are awesome. Learning from you. Stay safe.
Appreciate the kind words.
You're smart to disconnect battery when welding and you're also placing the ground clamp very near where you're welding. Both good practices. I don't have first-hand experience, but have heard that you can damage computers even with the battery disconnected if you have the ground clamp at one end of vehicle and are welding at other end. Since it takes very little effort to disconnect battery and keep ground clamp close I do it just to be safe.
The grill and headlights really changed the looks of this truck.
I agree. I think it will help the truck when we sell it. A little different from the other trucks for sale.
Good job fixing it up
My 2015 F250 is all blacked out and really like the look.
Just another short bed grocery getter/ mom's taxi!!!
My old 96 f250/2door/8ft.bed/XL will still be working when that one goes to the CRUSHER!!!!!!!!!!!
That plug on negative cable will get rid of the auto start stop crap.unplug it
might have to try that. No matter how many times I drive it, When it shuts off at a light I kind of freak out like it actually died. Everytime
Always disconnect battery before doing any welding. Also when doing things you don't need power. These new vehicles have so many sensors and wires that you could accidentally cut and short out that could destroy computers. Expensive cars have more than one computer.
Turned out beautiful
Just discovered this channel, great video.
Thanks Mike.
My first thought was safety not sabotage. This took a good front end hit and the driver side airbags went off. Maybe they disconnected it to prevent the rest of the airbags going off after being bumped on a trailer or moved around with a loader potentially hurting a person like you that was looking at it in the auction yard.
Maybe they hit something like a curb on the left side of it, knocked him into something else on the right side
Its possible I guess. Its hard to believe they would have actually been driving it like that. it was terribly loud
Im a new subscriber. I like what your doing.
Thanks for subscribing.i appreciate it. I’m still learning this deal. It’s not as easy as one would think. But I’m trying.
Nice truck!!! U. Got a good 1. Way to go. Lol. 1. Time I bought a car for 25.00. Guy told me. Motor seized up. Lol. I payed. Rolled it down to road. Pulled off road got under it took bar slammed the starter. Herd the CLICK. Go in. starts right up. Took it home cleaned it up 2 days later sold it for 2700. He he he. 😊 felt bad so I took a case of beer an gave it to the old owner. 😊
Always fun hearing other stories. I’m getting quite a few good ones from this video. Thanks Allan.
Fella I seen and talked to you at MOAB. Small world SIR.....
Where at. I’m thinking fins n things or hells gate?
@@Shouse-life I'm sorry cannot remember now. Will think about it and get back to you fella. Peace vf
Nice video bro! First time watching. Wonder if you’d consider talking about what you paid at copart bid and the parts costs to give a comparison to current 2018 ones so people can see the savigg by a of DIY.
Move the horn behind the headlights to make it harder to steal
Good job on that truck should be a good money maker
Let’s hope so. Need more project funds.
I had a buddy that bought a truck just like that! He did a rear door and boxside panel,then came the paint. Code was for Tuxedo Black,he is thick sometimes and he figured black is black,I tried to tell him.
Even black isn’t black. I had to respray a truck a few years ago because my black was blacker than the factory black. Ended up having to blend into the rear door to correct it. That truck had 4 variances for that code. Painting sucks some days.
Excellent all around. Thanks for sharing.
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching.
Definitely blackout the truck it will look awesome. I say you got a great deal. I love your shop a great place to work.👊🏼
Wish it was bigger. And it might be in the future. The frame machine wasn’t ever suppose to be here. Plans were to have it at another shop close to me but that fell through. Hopefully an addition is in out future.
New subscriber enjoyed your rebuild well done, what is the ceiling made of in your shop havent done mine yet and yours looked really smooth.
It’s actually drywall. My last shop was steel lined ceiling and walls. Literally couldn’t have a conversation unless you were looking at the person you were talking to. The echo was so bad. I opted for the drywall in this shop. It sucked to do as I did all the mudding and taping and sanding and priming and painting. But with the 17’ ceilings I couldn’t find anyone to do it. So I did it myself. No regrets after it was done.
Nice work 👍
Thanks for watching!
Don't know if it is a win with the cam phaser rattle. Someone was definitely trying to pull something over on someone though.
hi, ive seen on other YT's channels, some people disconnect or remove relays to disable the cars so it sales of cheaper and put of some buyers. after all a non running car its sometimes worth lest is it not?
Cant say I havnt done it myself back in the day when we physically went to the auction and bid on them live. a friend wanted a Ford Escort so I popped the hood and switched two spark plug wires. They started the car before bidding and it rattled like crazy. He won the car dirt cheap. We switched the wires back and drove it home lol. Ahh the good ole days
@@Shouse-life wow...
@@Shouse-life
A friend and I looked at a Maserati Biturbo a guy had for sale. Great shape, smooth V6, Want 10k. Good price but too high for us. He mentions it's going into an auction on the weekend
A week later we're at the auction and the car is brought in running like crap. Stalled twice, had to be pushed off after bidding.
No one wanted it. Without the motor it was only good for scrap weight or parts.
Sat at 500 till final call.
Bid against one guy. 600, 700 and on until 1400 when he gave up.
Paid 2000 in the end with fees.
What he didn't know is we had seen him playing under the hood at the preview along side the assistant auctioneer and had driven the car less than a week before. Or that we had met the owner and had his number.
The auction house found out when the guy sued them for fraud. They seemed to have had a track record of similar complaints.
He got paid out plus damages, the auction changed names and I got the car and a great deal on a boat (he owned a boat dealership.)
You should have put LOBO fender emblems on it…
That rattle on the start up at 8:15 is cam phasers gonna have to do them soon before it eats the cam up
Just finished them lol. Wasn’t terrible to do.
wow very thorough.a pro.
Other bidders will pull crap like this to drop the price and to run off other bidders..........
Notice the intercooler took a bit of a hit, you need to check the plastic tanks and the seams of the tank, they don't like hard hits.
Everything looked fine there. Very minor scuff on the top but isn’t affecting it so far. Seems to drive good. Might have to do the cam phasers though.
@@Shouse-life yeah heart the rattle when you first started it up. Make sure you get the updated phasers, they are thinker and have better springs in them.
Am I the only one that heard the rattling when it started
Nope. A lot of people heard it lol. When these trucks sit at auction for months without running the timing chain tensioners bleed off pressure. So when they start they rattle for a quick second until the oil pressure satisfies the tensioner pressure. I may have to put tensioners and chain guides in it before I sell it but my mechanic suggested an oil change and put so e Miles on it to see if the tensioners come back around. It’s common on the ecoboost. But if it doesn’t shut up I will fix it.
What type of education would you recommend for someone who'd like to learn your trade? With a slightly higher than average knowledge base for auto mechanics where would someone begin to start down the path towards a skilled Mechanic? Thanks. Truly enjoyed!
If you’re after an actual education then I’d look into trade schools. There’s plenty of options around the U.S. UNOH in Ohio is one of the best. A friend of mines boy is attending there. Loves it. Travels the U.S as a put crew member for ARCA races through the school. I’m sure there’s something local for you but if you’re young enough to take the plunge I would def recommend while you can. I myself attended trade school for HVAC. Auto body was just always a hobby that turned into my day business. I’m mostly self taught. I worked at a body shop when I was young before college. He taught me to paint. I took it from there. Hope it helps. Like I said if you’re able to do it at what ever age you are then do it.
@Shouse-life Appreciate the feedback. My teen years were spent taping/covering trim and lots of Bondo sanding work on vehicles followed by learning basic vehicle repairs as needed by owning used cars out of warranty. My point is I have a basic understanding but with modern vehicles, it's all tech which is where I'm lacking. I'm hoping to train in a new craft after 19 years as a construction worker/Boiler Maker in S Louisiana. It's becoming more challenging and automotive repair and bodywork are the other trades I'm somewhat knowledgeable on. So thanks again.
What eraser wheel do you use on the emblem adhesive? the one I was using on my project caused 300 x the dust and eraser gum
Your truck needs a complete timing job. The cam phaser's are clacking on start up. That's the mechanical damage
Watch the next video after this one lol.
Leave the Grey grille, it's a nice contrast.
I’m a color keyed kind of guy myself. Not saying everyone has to be. Just my preference. Thanks for the suggestion though. I appreciate it.
Great vid!
Thanks. I have a Saleen that will be in a future video. Way future though.
I am slowly removing my '04 Titans chrome and swapping black or grey metallic in...
Not a chrome guy either?
Wish I knew some one that did this in CA I’d rather have a fixed salvage truck then pay 60-100k for a new one
I agree. I could never justify buying a new truck. I have family in CA. I e done builders for them in the past. They Fly in and drive them home. One of my customers drove one of my builders to Oregon for his daughter. I’m not sure it was worth the trouble but they were happy. I’m in Wisconsin/ Iowa area so it wasn’t a short haul.
16:19 yep I’m a believer in removing the battery for welding.
Like from Russia !
Hello Russia.
Thanks for sharing.
Appreciate you watching!
What was the engine clatter noise when you first started to it up?
Infamous cam phaser rattle.
Typical 3.5 timing chain issues. It was sitting for a few months without being started. Hoping a fresh oil change and some miles will clean them up. Its only done it twice so far. One was the first start after sitting at the auction as you heard. The second was after sitting for 2 weeks while we were on vacation. we''ll see.
It's a Ford. I used to deal with them daily until just over a year ago. It's stunning how bad the build quality has gotten.
You said possible mechanical issues and I never saw you look under the truck or check the oil.....
I did look under the truck when it was on the trailer. Not on camera, obviously. But I wasn’t concerned. I figured the mechanical was the battery being disconnected, which I was right.
Great video, thanks
I'm glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching.
Did you have any problems getting that deployed airbag out? I tried to get a steering wheel from the junkyard with a deployed airbag, and I couldn't get the little clips to disengage. All the UA-cam videos made it look so easy, but after an hour, I gave up.
It’s tricky. You’ll fight for a while then all of a sudden it pops out. Not sure what you did different to make it happen but it’s out.
I fried a really nice audio system welding the frame. Lesson learned.
will all the black out you did do you should of had the wheels powder coated black would have been awesome.
If I was keeping it I would put different wheels on it all together. But as a flip I don’t think I would get that investment back. It might help sell it but you’re just losing 2k in the end. My opinion anyways.
Yeah , I guess somebody was upset that their new fifty thousand mile truck Makes a noise.That sounds like it's blown up when you start it from the phaser ford junk
It’s all good now. Cost me another $1000 but I’m still under 20k in the truck with a clear title so I’m not to upset.
Why would you take the stickers off and changed emblems and stuff if going to sell. Maybe they wanted that sport sticker left on and like the original emblems.
I think it helps to make them stand out from all the other trucks on marketplace. I did the same to a 19 F150 Last year. I had multiple people wanting that truck the day I listed it. I also had a set of nicer wheels on that one though. Just my 2 cents.
Basically, basically, basically, and then basically...
Basically yes. That’s correct. Carry on.
What dom you use to put the badges on?
They had 3m tape on them already. But if not I would have used the 3m VHB double sided tape.
Just curious why did you remove the sport decals. Buyer is going to ask what package the truck is yes it's 1 step up from the XL .
2 reasons. 1, I don’t really like decals or emblems. If I could remove the emblems without having holes in the fenders I would. 2. It was actually only on the drivers side. Passenger side was gone. I didn’t see any signs of repair or paintwork on that side so I’m not sure why it wasn’t there. Oh well.
33s clear the front crash bars, 35s might rub
Depends on the wheel offset. If you put roller skate wheels on they hit. Had it on my 19. Bought them off marketplace. Didn’t realize the offset. Oh well. They’re still in that truck. New owner loves them.
@Shouse-life My 2016 has a 2" level 33x12.5 on Method 316 with minimal offset, the tires are almost flush with the factory flares
Hardly seems like a hard enough hit to make those airbags deploy.
I agree.
Sabotaged pickup? Anyone seen Carrie Underwood recently?
I love how everyone tries to think someone at copart would sabotage the cars at auction. 90% of the people who recieve the cars have no clue about cars. Id know i work there
Never said it was a copart employee. I know most of them know nothing about cars. I think the shop that wrote the estimate did it before it left knowing it was easy fix and clean title. If I didn’t bid it would have sold for 12k. There was only one other bidder against me and it was a pure sale
@@Shouse-life watch mortz garage he bought a truck from them and was arrested for stolen be carefule
Thats some poor engineering for a hub to only go 50k.
So does it have a salvaged title after the fix? Waht was the total investment vs ACV of the repaired unit?
It’s a little goofy. It’s a clear Wisconsin title right now. But we live right next to Iowa and they have a rule that if you buy a car owned by an insurance company it has to go salvage. I’m waiting on them to review the paperwork and see if they’re going to salvage it. I could sell it in any other state as clear but if someone brings it to Iowa later it could go salvage. Clean retail is around 30k. I’m less than 20 in it.
Your fuzzy microphone matches your beard
I’m all out about color coordination lol.
i'd unplug EVERYTHING that's not isolate from whatever it is you're welding on, EVERYTHING and anything, believe it or not these F150 tail lamps are $5000 EACH! shyt younot they have all the fine compenents for lane sensing and radar components for active cruise control.. and why you cannot buy this stuff separate is a mystery to me . . if you love these trucks and yours is autlitiya d its fully loaded? by another one thats base model for off roading . . OR swap out a set of XLT tail lamps when your brush jumping . . and YES they were clever enough to insure these sensors and radar gear cannot bolt up to an XLT tail lamp, hmm.... imagine that took one right out of apples playbook.. "oh you need a larger hard drive, yea, only proprietary apple drives will work, oh yea we got em, like 10 times what the industry standards cost but hey they do have a mac serial number on em" ... anyone who thinks these manufacturers do NOT make and install parts designed to fail within certain time frames welp they beat you up, since oh prolly the early alternator days? then when FI rolled around it gave them a veritable duck shoot pf components they can time delay fail ..
oh yea see the generators they used to put in these were eventually designed to fail with "wear" points, until some genius came up with a brainstorm an alternator that would never wear, fail or do weird shit like blow bulbs and roast coils... but they made so much selling OEM generators it was going to be a big ol' financial hit, so the engineers got busy how to make R/R's that can fail at certain points in a lifetime.. oh yea, then when that was overridden by third party voltage regulators they began installing them internally to defeat people from installing better third party..
now they have digital everything? oh bay, they can access your car wirelessly or using satellites and welp, burn any resistor or capacitor they so desire.. lil' more current on that trace to smoke the board .. lol . . . sure why not, they're cheap, $250 is nothing .. question is why didn't they just go ahead and make them $350 ECUs and WATERPROOF THEM!
and when twillout corrupt government mandate that ALL vehicles sold new in flood hurracene area sbe WATERPROOF! waterproof them all FFS, it's not that difficult hale you're already there use better penetration seals, waterproof connectors, waterproof controllers and ECUs, REAL ones not "splash proof ffs" . . . lamps the orks, specially the cabins, dunno bout you guys but I want a waterproof cabin as well, some are by nature, but the entire rigg was waterproof we wouldn't have lots and lots and lots and lots full of flood damage vehicles across the country, in the day cars and trucks could handle a flood, dry it out and go! no today, all that sensitive electronics they don't care to protect? I mean on a 4 X 4? yea i'd never think of crossing a river or a creek with one . . don't bother waterproofing anything . . the fuggen corvette is more waterproof than most 4x4's what gives? I'll tell ya what gives, teh people take it bending over, then ask for more... stop buyign theshyt and let em know why
Have fun with that one
We will Vinny. We have a new hat for ya