I just did a "double flush" on my 2007 Ram 5.7L. I added the flush to the existing oil and ran it as directed. Changed the oil and changed the filter and put another round of flush in it. Ran that as directed and drained that. Then filled up with new oil and a new filter. The truck is running great and that second flush definitely seemed to be cleaner than the first but was still fairly dirty. I have owned this truck since new, ALWAYS ran synthetic oil and ALWAYS changed the oil between 5000-7500 miles. I was pretty amazed at how dirty both flushes back to back were.
No need for a dangerous solvent in your oil, especially running it for an hour. Yes, prove to me it is safe where no manufacturer recommends use of solvent based flushes. I can flush the engine with 100% API rated oil and achieve the same results after 20 minutes of driving on the highway. It is called a Full Volume Oil Change is well known in the Industrial Machine industry. Applies to all engines types. 10-20% of the old oil will remain in a modern engine. That is what people see when draining after a short interval or even running for one hour. This is what causes most sludge, the residual oil that is left in the engine for double the normal oil interval. Performing a double oil change will net you a 96%-99% exchange in most cases. This method is 100% safe and the fully formulated oil with all of its detergents and dispersants will flush the engine. If your engine is full of sludge and varnish from years of neglect, running a 100% synthetic oil and performing these safe flushes will clean up your engine after three OCIs. By the way, I have nothing to sell you, only sound information and advice. Wait, hold the presses. BG now makes a flush oil to get rid of the residual flush solvents and residue. I thought it was safe. Wow, who would have guessed. The flush oil is merely an API SN rated oil but they charge you extra.
BG products is one of the largest fluid manufacturers in the industry. They back it up with a lifetime warranty on the engine after it is done. Locally this is sold at 3 dealerships. Of course in the industry if you ask10 guys you will get 8 answers. This was the first I have seen that cleaned without stopping up screens in my 34 years here at B&B. This is way more critical now with cam phasers and oil controlled valve timing. I think our test was a success and showed me that it can work in one shot. At appox $200 seems like a good value especially given the lifetime warranty. Not saying it is the only way but it is a way. Thanks for the input.
@@BBAUTOMOTIVESERVICESBryan A previous poster asked what specific BG product was being used in the video but never got an answer. GM corporation has a TSB on the use of any type of engine or transmission flush/cleaners. It is rare for sludge to be in such a quantity to clog the oil pickup screen. The screens on VVT solenoids are protected by full flow filter which will stop any harmful contaminants. The VVTs can be cleaned easily and re-installed. I have only found very small bits and pieces of gasket and silicone in the VVTs, probably from original assembly. None that would block. The loss in viscosity due to fuel dilution or the increase in viscosity due to high temp/pressure shearing does affect VVT operation. Had you completed a full flush with clean oil and then added your BG flush fluid and it looked that way afterwards, that is something I can believe. The majority is from the old oil that remains in any engine, mixing with clean oil. I have done this myself with same results in your video using clean oil. Lifetime engine warranty from BG. I would have to see the fine print and conditions of the warranty. Most of those warranties make it nearly impossible to file a successful claim and are just a gimmick.
@@brianbaker7470 Its basically a double oil change. Change oil normally, drive 50 miles in city and highway, hard acceleration to flush out the VVT galleries if you have it. Drain, new filter and refill with the high quality synthetic. In most cases you will get 99% of the old oil out. If you have an extremely dirty engine, repeat at your next few oil changes. www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/31012/short-volume-oil-changes
Directly from the BG reps that I worked with, they actually say just to add the can to the existing dirty oil, and only run for 15-20 minutes (MAX). What happens over a long extended time, is the chemical evaporates with the engine heat. Eventually, you're just circulating old oil around. That said, draining the oil, refilling with new oil, adding the cleaner, then putting a new filter on would be amazing for a thorough job. Expensive, but if you got a lot of sludge, that'll clean up nice! I love the BG Engine flush, works unbelievably well!
I assure you those chemicals will bind with the old oil and not evaporate. A simple oil analysis proves that. Those sales reps will say anything, knowing the vast majority are nieve or too lazy to apply critical thinking, if they have any at all.
The directions on the bottle say 45 min. Since this was made they now offer a rinse oil step. Might have to try a new video soon! Thanks for the comments!
On a juckyard luv pickup me and boy took off valve cover and pour a gallon of diesel over head and timing chain. Let soak in oil pan. Filtered the diesel each time before running thru again. Repeated multiple times until diesel was clear of debri. Then poured new 5 quarts of oil all over lifters cam rockers etc. New filter. Good looking new oil so far. Only other thing i considered was filling entire oil pan up but didnt want to deteriorate the oil pan gasket.
Take a small sample of the flushing oil after running the engine, then add the flush product and repeat the engine run and drain. This way you are comparing the flushing oil with the flushing agent. They are often the same when you have a clean engine. If not, then you are truly flushing gunk from a really dirty engine. A car you have maintained properly will get little benefit from the engine flush. So are we cleaning gunk and varnish or just flushing the old dirty oil? Too many people put in a flushing agent and say "Wow, look how dirty the oil is, this stuff really works." Is the oil flushing residual dirty oil and sediments, or is the flushing agent truly cleaning varnish and gunk? Kind of important to know which is of the two options is happening. When the flush oil sample alone is the same as the flush agent oil sample, you'll know your car’s engine is clean and regular oil changes with modern oils will require no more flushing agents. If the oil gets markedly dirtier with the addition of the flush agent, you’ll know you need to keep cleaning out the engine build up. Normally, this won’t be the case. Use either a quick step agent like Moly or a 1000 mile clean like Auto-RX or Marvels, but please don’t risk engine or seal damage with kerosene or diesel. One advantage of the “slow burn” cleaners is that you are allowing the fresh oil to clean over time vs. wasting oil with quick clean multiple flushes that might be completely unnecessary and expensive. Once you have “cleaned” your engine, regular oil changes will likely be enough and no more flushes should be required. However, if you are OCD like me, do an engine flush when you change your transmission/differential fluid/oil, every 30k/60k miles, or use the slow burn additive every other oil change
Thanks for your thoughts. Lots I agree with. Most GDI engines out there I would think the 30-60-90 is perfect. A GDI with VVT I would say is almost a must. Those are for maintenance. This truck was another story in that it was a stopped up screen on the oil pick up and had no oil pressure. Good stuff
Im not a mechanic... But O believe to start doing flushes around the 100k mile mark where the engine wear would be noticable. Do a flush every 3rd oil change.
I’ve seen VVT equipped cars that had poor maintenance done on them and were suffering from VVT related engine codes corrected by running a good quality flush such as BG, LiquiMoly, Amsoil through them. Today’s 8-10K mile oil change intervals in VVT equipped engines is a recipe for disaster.
A lot depends on how the car is driven though. You can't say it's a disaster for every instance. I just bought a F10 BMW 535i and the oil change interval on the disgnostic screen initially said i would need to change the oil in 6000 miles. It now says 7000 miles. I do a lot of driving, and mostly at above the speed limit, however, I drive very gently, never accelerate harshly although I do accelerate briskly to try to get to top gear as soon as possible, and I coast a lot to stops, traffic lights, etc. My tires, brakes, oil, fuel economy, and wallet all benefit from how I drive.
Was told by a Mechanic with over 30 years experience that even on on new vehicles sludge can be a problem, his recommendation was 3.5 litres oil and 500ml diesel and run it for a few weeks to clear sludge. NOW this is only for vehicles that have a sludge issue. So going to try it and will report back.
No way do you put anything but engine oil or a factory-approved product in a contemporary engine. More likely, people need to do their research and buy production that matches the kind of driving they are doing. If some research shows that a certain engine gets sludge in stop-and-go and short trip driving, you don't buy a vehicle with that engine even if you think it's, like, really cool. If you already have a vehicle that develops sludge, your first step and the easiest one to take is to accelerate your oil change interval, maybe even change the oil every 2000 miles. All modern vehicles require synthetic. But learn to change the oil yourself and use the cheaper products you can get at Walmart or at some of the dollar chains. Walmart where I live has six quarts of a major brand synthetic oil in a box for $19.95. If that doesn't work, starting driving your wife to see her mother more often or start visiting your out-of-state girlfriend more than once a year. Or, get a different vehicle.
Those that say a flush will clog ports and screen must have followed green new scam extended oil change interval manuals for after warrenty failure specs! Lol Gotta keep using 0w oil while pouring in a quart every few miles. Lol retired mechanics and youngunz with a more free IQ say warm it up before you rev it up. Change the oil at 3,000 to 5,000 miles. Use slightly more viscocity with high mileage! Use a good quality gas cleaner. Dump black oil. Change oil filter. Add engine flush and 5w 30 oil or 10w 30 oil minimum. Flush per directions. Drain and add new quality filter. Some like me OCD say do a rinse drain and fill also. Mowers like clean oil too. I use vortex drain tube. Yogurt 1qt tub trimmed to fit around loostened filter to unscrew to catch all oil and used filter! Works. I fill to top dot after purring a few minutes. I check oil often.
I wouldn’t recommend engine flush. The sludge may clog up something else, causing more problems. Just change engine oil and filter as recommended by car manufacturer. Not at 20-25k miles! Wonders which car manufacturer recommends that!
Flushing an engine is very risky! Sludge can break loose and cause an oil pump failure... destroying your engine! If you change your motor oil every 2,500 to 3,000 miles you will never need a flush!
Sludge will be dissolved in the oil by the flush and either filtered out or removed when you drain the oil out. You are more likely to damage an engine by leaving the sludge in it.
The sludge in engine oil is most likely placed in certain areas according to engine design. There is no needs to think that the sludge move and causes any problems...until you put something in the engine, which releases it...I don't think using any engine flush is without any risk and I don't recommend using it as prevention...prevention is regular oil change with shortened interval and right type of oil. However this kind of product can be helpful if you for example buy a car without any history and obvious lack of oil changes. But in this case the engine is not in a good condition in first place. I wouldn't recommend it also for an old engines, because if you completely remove any sludge, you can have problems with leaks and oil consumption.
@@BBAUTOMOTIVESERVICESBryan its pretty much dirty and worn out by 1500 miles in any engine regardless of milage and usage. Changing it at 1500 ensures the oil is always clean and fresh and not running on dirty worn out oil
@@BBAUTOMOTIVESERVICESBryan should at least change the filter at 1500 and change the oil and filter again at 3000 by then the oil is full of gas and carbon build up besides the oil/additives being worn out and not doing its job anymore
Sorry , for countless years I have always used an engine oil flush at every oil / oil filter change . Miles ranged from 10000 , 7500 and 5000 .and oil was not black but golden and I could see through it while it was draining . These flushes were either Amsoil or Liqui-Moly , detergent based , not solvent .
I have to believe that about Mobil 1, bought a vehicle that had nothing but Pennzoil ( Jiffy lube ) ( no known issues ) I do my own changes using M1, and Now have OCV / VVT codes , obviously M1 cleans as it lubricates
Strong detergent and solvent is good only wh😁n you have sticky piston rings and burn oil. Otherwise it only accelerate wear on bearings and seals. It is solvent
Or a partially / potentially blocked oil pick up as mentioned on the vid . When dealing with a poorly maintained engine, a flush treatment and ongoing maintenance is always preferable to catastrophic engine failure right?!
You not need to bay engine flush in the shop, i do a flush of diesel engine with a fresh oil i not need enymore, empty the oil and the replement the filter, and mixed 60/40 oil and diesel, and let the engine run in 15-20 min , empty the oil again and new filter, and full lite more diesel in the engine without the oilplugg in the pan so all the old oil will be emty from the pan , pur the oilplugg back and fill the engine with fresh new oil , The oil on the dipstick its now clear , i been recommend this flush , the have been long time last time this engine have service of oil and filter, the oil feel dry and the camshaft vas Black of old oil and there were some deposits in the cylinder head that were like tar, clean the bearing trays on the camshaft immediately, it is clear that the oil change has been sloppy and the first oil that was cheapest was probably taken and it doesn't pay off in the long run
To the channel owner (or anybody else) ...I am torn between the BG flush or the Liqui-moly. Any feedback and/or advice would be greatly appreciated. *The vehicle is a 2012 Passat VR6/V6, GDI (w 85k) - Thank you!
No need for for 5 jugs, just do a double oil change. The first one an expensive oil, then put in a high quality synthetic. Repeat at your next interval. It takes time to dissolve and disperse sludge and varnish.
How would a BG engine flush work to trap the sludge in a cartridge style oil filter? Like the oil filter in a 2015 Wrangler. The filter will be located on top of the engine and it's just the filtering element.
@@BBAUTOMOTIVESERVICESBryan Can I do do this at home? and what are the steps I need to do so this correctly works for my 2010 Kia forte? and any products you recommend? please post link
B&B Automotive Services I can do that maybe I’ll give your product a try, can I ask tho what makes your product different than the sea foam motor oil treatment
I just did a "double flush" on my 2007 Ram 5.7L. I added the flush to the existing oil and ran it as directed. Changed the oil and changed the filter and put another round of flush in it. Ran that as directed and drained that. Then filled up with new oil and a new filter. The truck is running great and that second flush definitely seemed to be cleaner than the first but was still fairly dirty. I have owned this truck since new, ALWAYS ran synthetic oil and ALWAYS changed the oil between 5000-7500 miles. I was pretty amazed at how dirty both flushes back to back were.
Great insight! Thanks for the info!
No need for a dangerous solvent in your oil, especially running it for an hour. Yes, prove to me it is safe where no manufacturer recommends use of solvent based flushes. I can flush the engine with 100% API rated oil and achieve the same results after 20 minutes of driving on the highway. It is called a Full Volume Oil Change is well known in the Industrial Machine industry. Applies to all engines types. 10-20% of the old oil will remain in a modern engine. That is what people see when draining after a short interval or even running for one hour. This is what causes most sludge, the residual oil that is left in the engine for double the normal oil interval. Performing a double oil change will net you a 96%-99% exchange in most cases. This method is 100% safe and the fully formulated oil with all of its detergents and dispersants will flush the engine. If your engine is full of sludge and varnish from years of neglect, running a 100% synthetic oil and performing these safe flushes will clean up your engine after three OCIs. By the way, I have nothing to sell you, only sound information and advice. Wait, hold the presses. BG now makes a flush oil to get rid of the residual flush solvents and residue. I thought it was safe. Wow, who would have guessed. The flush oil is merely an API SN rated oil but they charge you extra.
BG products is one of the largest fluid manufacturers in the industry. They back it up with a lifetime warranty on the engine after it is done. Locally this is sold at 3 dealerships. Of course in the industry if you ask10 guys you will get 8 answers. This was the first I have seen that cleaned without stopping up screens in my 34 years here at B&B. This is way more critical now with cam phasers and oil controlled valve timing. I think our test was a success and showed me that it can work in one shot. At appox $200 seems like a good value especially given the lifetime warranty. Not saying it is the only way but it is a way. Thanks for the input.
@@BBAUTOMOTIVESERVICESBryan A previous poster asked what specific BG product was being used in the video but never got an answer. GM corporation has a TSB on the use of any type of engine or transmission flush/cleaners. It is rare for sludge to be in such a quantity to clog the oil pickup screen. The screens on VVT solenoids are protected by full flow filter which will stop any harmful contaminants. The VVTs can be cleaned easily and re-installed. I have only found very small bits and pieces of gasket and silicone in the VVTs, probably from original assembly. None that would block. The loss in viscosity due to fuel dilution or the increase in viscosity due to high temp/pressure shearing does affect VVT operation. Had you completed a full flush with clean oil and then added your BG flush fluid and it looked that way afterwards, that is something I can believe. The majority is from the old oil that remains in any engine, mixing with clean oil. I have done this myself with same results in your video using clean oil. Lifetime engine warranty from BG. I would have to see the fine print and conditions of the warranty. Most of those warranties make it nearly impossible to file a successful claim and are just a gimmick.
@@tssci6774 BG Dynamic Engine Cleaner is the one we used.
Can you please give more info about The Full Volume Oil Change. Such as procedures to perform self ( for dummes ) lol.
@@brianbaker7470 Its basically a double oil change. Change oil normally, drive 50 miles in city and highway, hard acceleration to flush out the VVT galleries if you have it. Drain, new filter and refill with the high quality synthetic. In most cases you will get 99% of the old oil out. If you have an extremely dirty engine, repeat at your next few oil changes. www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/31012/short-volume-oil-changes
Directly from the BG reps that I worked with, they actually say just to add the can to the existing dirty oil, and only run for 15-20 minutes (MAX). What happens over a long extended time, is the chemical evaporates with the engine heat. Eventually, you're just circulating old oil around.
That said, draining the oil, refilling with new oil, adding the cleaner, then putting a new filter on would be amazing for a thorough job. Expensive, but if you got a lot of sludge, that'll clean up nice! I love the BG Engine flush, works unbelievably well!
I assure you those chemicals will bind with the old oil and not evaporate. A simple oil analysis proves that. Those sales reps will say anything, knowing the vast majority are nieve or too lazy to apply critical thinking, if they have any at all.
The directions on the bottle say 45 min. Since this was made they now offer a rinse oil step. Might have to try a new video soon! Thanks for the comments!
The flush is a full gallon so I would say that would be a very full crankcase! Thanks for the comment
@@BBAUTOMOTIVESERVICESBryan I wish I could find the gallon jugs where i live in Canada.
On a juckyard luv pickup me and boy took off valve cover and pour a gallon of diesel over head and timing chain. Let soak in oil pan. Filtered the diesel each time before running thru again. Repeated multiple times until diesel was clear of debri. Then poured new 5 quarts of oil all over lifters cam rockers etc. New filter. Good looking new oil so far. Only other thing i considered was filling entire oil pan up but didnt want to deteriorate the oil pan gasket.
Interesting
Take a small sample of the flushing oil after running the engine, then add the flush product and repeat the engine run and drain. This way you are comparing the flushing oil with the flushing agent. They are often the same when you have a clean engine. If not, then you are truly flushing gunk from a really dirty engine. A car you have maintained properly will get little benefit from the engine flush.
So are we cleaning gunk and varnish or just flushing the old dirty oil?
Too many people put in a flushing agent and say "Wow, look how dirty the oil is, this stuff really works." Is the oil flushing residual dirty oil and sediments, or is the flushing agent truly cleaning varnish and gunk?
Kind of important to know which is of the two options is happening. When the flush oil sample alone is the same as the flush agent oil sample, you'll know your car’s engine is clean and regular oil changes with modern oils will require no more flushing agents. If the oil gets markedly dirtier with the addition of the flush agent, you’ll know you need to keep cleaning out the engine build up. Normally, this won’t be the case.
Use either a quick step agent like Moly or a 1000 mile clean like Auto-RX or Marvels, but please don’t risk engine or seal damage with kerosene or diesel. One advantage of the “slow burn” cleaners is that you are allowing the fresh oil to clean over time vs. wasting oil with quick clean multiple flushes that might be completely unnecessary and expensive.
Once you have “cleaned” your engine, regular oil changes will likely be enough and no more flushes should be required. However, if you are OCD like me, do an engine flush when you change your transmission/differential fluid/oil, every 30k/60k miles, or use the slow burn additive every other oil change
Thanks for your thoughts. Lots I agree with. Most GDI engines out there I would think the 30-60-90 is perfect. A GDI with VVT I would say is almost a must. Those are for maintenance. This truck was another story in that it was a stopped up screen on the oil pick up and had no oil pressure. Good stuff
Im not a mechanic...
But O believe to start doing flushes around the 100k mile mark where the engine wear would be noticable. Do a flush every 3rd oil change.
I’ve seen VVT equipped cars that had poor maintenance done on them and were suffering from VVT related engine codes corrected by running a good quality flush such as BG, LiquiMoly, Amsoil through them. Today’s 8-10K mile oil change intervals in VVT equipped engines is a recipe for disaster.
it is amazing how well these new products work
A lot depends on how the car is driven though. You can't say it's a disaster for every instance. I just bought a F10 BMW 535i and the oil change interval on the disgnostic screen initially said i would need to change the oil in 6000 miles. It now says 7000 miles. I do a lot of driving, and mostly at above the speed limit, however, I drive very gently, never accelerate harshly although I do accelerate briskly to try to get to top gear as soon as possible, and I coast a lot to stops, traffic lights, etc.
My tires, brakes, oil, fuel economy, and wallet all benefit from how I drive.
@@monunyabidness5949 i see a carbon issue on your valves
Simple! Thanks!
Was told by a Mechanic with over 30 years experience that even on on new vehicles sludge can be a problem, his recommendation was 3.5 litres oil and 500ml diesel and run it for a few weeks to clear sludge. NOW this is only for vehicles that have a sludge issue. So going to try it and will report back.
It is a growing problem and I have heard that at well. Not tried it Thanks for the feed back
Another dumb-ass who wants to ruin his engine with a flush job!
Diesel fuel will destroy today’s engine seals
No way do you put anything but engine oil or a factory-approved product in a contemporary engine. More likely, people need to do their research and buy production that matches the kind of driving they are doing. If some research shows that a certain engine gets sludge in stop-and-go and short trip driving, you don't buy a vehicle with that engine even if you think it's, like, really cool.
If you already have a vehicle that develops sludge, your first step and the easiest one to take is to accelerate your oil change interval, maybe even change the oil every 2000 miles. All modern vehicles require synthetic. But learn to change the oil yourself and use the cheaper products you can get at Walmart or at some of the dollar chains. Walmart where I live has six quarts of a major brand synthetic oil in a box for $19.95. If that doesn't work, starting driving your wife to see her mother more often or start visiting your out-of-state girlfriend more than once a year. Or, get a different vehicle.
@@jameskoralewski1006 Flush your engine is right.
Yes sir thank you so much for the update..take care always.
You bet
Those that say a flush will clog ports and screen must have followed green new scam extended oil change interval manuals for after warrenty failure specs! Lol Gotta keep using 0w oil while pouring in a quart every few miles. Lol retired mechanics and youngunz with a more free IQ say warm it up before you rev it up. Change the oil at 3,000 to 5,000 miles. Use slightly more viscocity with high mileage! Use a good quality gas cleaner. Dump black oil. Change oil filter. Add engine flush and 5w 30 oil or 10w 30 oil minimum. Flush per directions. Drain and add new quality filter. Some like me OCD say do a rinse drain and fill also. Mowers like clean oil too. I use vortex drain tube. Yogurt 1qt tub trimmed to fit around loostened filter to unscrew to catch all oil and used filter! Works. I fill to top dot after purring a few minutes. I check oil often.
I wouldn’t recommend engine flush. The sludge may clog up something else, causing more problems. Just change engine oil and filter as recommended by car manufacturer. Not at 20-25k miles! Wonders which car manufacturer recommends that!
What if you have a car that was already abused? at that point would a flush be a good idea?
@@randomvideosn0where sorry, I don’t have such experience.
No worries and yes I would agree 20k is way too long
VW Gold IV 460.000 km, never had an engine flush but runs like a charm. Should I do it?
Flushing an engine is very risky! Sludge can break loose and cause an oil pump failure... destroying your engine! If you change your motor oil every 2,500 to 3,000 miles you will never need a flush!
Very true. This engine had a ton of miles and already had a oil pump screen stopped up. Was a fun job and educational
Oh..i change mine every 4000 with synthetic..you talken conventional oil?
Sludge will be dissolved in the oil by the flush and either filtered out or removed when you drain the oil out. You are more likely to damage an engine by leaving the sludge in it.
The sludge in engine oil is most likely placed in certain areas according to engine design. There is no needs to think that the sludge move and causes any problems...until you put something in the engine, which releases it...I don't think using any engine flush is without any risk and I don't recommend using it as prevention...prevention is regular oil change with shortened interval and right type of oil. However this kind of product can be helpful if you for example buy a car without any history and obvious lack of oil changes. But in this case the engine is not in a good condition in first place. I wouldn't recommend it also for an old engines, because if you completely remove any sludge, you can have problems with leaks and oil consumption.
Changing the oil every 1,500 miles will keep the engine clean and running like new
Thanks for the comment. Personally 1500 is just too soon and a waste of good oil. But to each his own. This would be great for a 1 owner car as well
@@BBAUTOMOTIVESERVICESBryan its pretty much dirty and worn out by 1500 miles in any engine regardless of milage and usage. Changing it at 1500 ensures the oil is always clean and fresh and not running on dirty worn out oil
@@BBAUTOMOTIVESERVICESBryan should at least change the filter at 1500 and change the oil and filter again at 3000 by then the oil is full of gas and carbon build up besides the oil/additives being worn out and not doing its job anymore
Add a good flush to the oil idle for 10-15 min then drain.
Sorry , for countless years I have always used an engine oil flush at every oil / oil filter change . Miles ranged from 10000 , 7500 and 5000 .and oil was not black but golden and I could see through it while it was draining . These flushes were either Amsoil or Liqui-Moly , detergent based , not solvent .
money wasted
Would think that might be over kill, but will stay clean
So, drain oil. Replace filter. Add flush. New filter traps sludge. Add new oil …. What about the filter?
Always new oil filter
Well I gotta find a new fetish now. Used to be into hand models. Not those kinda hands on Kenny. 😱😱 what a riot. Hand model...
I have to believe that about Mobil 1, bought a vehicle that had nothing but Pennzoil ( Jiffy lube ) ( no known issues ) I do my own changes using M1, and Now have OCV / VVT codes , obviously M1 cleans as it lubricates
Strong detergent and solvent is good only wh😁n you have sticky piston rings and burn oil. Otherwise it only accelerate wear on bearings and seals. It is solvent
Thanks for the input. I was very impressed with the results and I am sure it most likely helped with the rings as well.
Or a partially / potentially blocked oil pick up as mentioned on the vid . When dealing with a poorly maintained engine, a flush treatment and ongoing maintenance is always preferable to catastrophic engine failure right?!
@@mjhmech4903 Exactly!!
Oil change more often ! 🤟
Yes that is the ideal thing for sure!
You not need to bay engine flush in the shop, i do a flush of diesel engine with a fresh oil i not need enymore, empty the oil and the replement the filter, and mixed 60/40 oil and diesel, and let the engine run in 15-20 min , empty the oil again and new filter, and full lite more diesel in the engine without the oilplugg in the pan so all the old oil will be emty from the pan , pur the oilplugg back and fill the engine with fresh new oil ,
The oil on the dipstick its now clear , i been recommend this flush , the have been long time last time this engine have service of oil and filter, the oil feel dry and the camshaft vas Black of old oil and there were some deposits in the cylinder head that were like tar, clean the bearing trays on the camshaft immediately, it is clear that the oil change has been sloppy and the first oil that was cheapest was probably taken and it doesn't pay off in the long run
To the channel owner (or anybody else) ...I am torn between the BG flush or the Liqui-moly. Any feedback and/or advice would be greatly appreciated.
*The vehicle is a 2012 Passat VR6/V6, GDI (w 85k) - Thank you!
I am a fan of both and use the moly in my personal BMW.
I change my oil every other day. So far so good 🙄
YESSS Perfect lol!!
Buy 5 jugs of 5 quart Mobil 1 oil and do five oil changes of 100 mile interval. This is a much safer way to clean the inside of a motor.
would make for an interesting comparison video. Thanks for your feedback
No need for for 5 jugs, just do a double oil change. The first one an expensive oil, then put in a high quality synthetic. Repeat at your next interval. It takes time to dissolve and disperse sludge and varnish.
So spend a lot money in this oil, they buy another engine
How would you test for the cleanliness of the oil. Color? TestOil.com includes ISO partical count testing in their oil analysis.
@@tssci6774 this truck had no oil pressure after 30 min of driving due to the pick up screen being stopped up. Not sure an oil change would fix that.
How would a BG engine flush work to trap the sludge in a cartridge style oil filter? Like the oil filter in a 2015 Wrangler. The filter will be located on top of the engine and it's just the filtering element.
It still will work. It turns it into a very fine sludge that can be carried by the oil into the filter.
@@BBAUTOMOTIVESERVICESBryan Can I do do this at home? and what are the steps I need to do so this correctly works for my 2010 Kia forte? and any products you recommend? please post link
@@jordanrieser2703 If you can change oil you can do it yourself. The instructions are on the kit.
B&B Automotive Services I can do that maybe I’ll give your product a try, can I ask tho what makes your product different than the sea foam motor oil treatment
@@jordanrieser2703 So far it has been the only one we have tried that works slowly and very fine as to not stop up screens in oil pumps and actuators
"you're cars a valuable asset to your family" f the family. Its valuable to you :)
Just change your oil more often and thats all!!
Works if you are the only owner Thanks for the comment
What if the car is never flushed ..corolla 2009 with 300000+km...is it ok to do it ..?
That depends on if there is a problem in my opinion. I would only use it in situations where VVT and other oil related screens are stopping up.
Why is your voice so high man??
?? not sure Have a good one!
On my country 30 years and still good ...not using flush etc...
Thanks for checking in! Glad no problems!
@@BBAUTOMOTIVESERVICESBryan good your chanel...from indonesia
If you need an engine flush you've not changed your oil on time i.e. you're too late.
My engines never need a flush, they're clean.
Would you suggest an engine flush on a 2011 Kia that has close to 100,000 miles on it?
I would not be afraid to do it and pretty sure that is a GDI so a fuel system cleaning would be good as well
Menurut saya engine flush bagus
Salam kenal dari Indonesia🇮🇩🙏🤝
Hello . Should i use oil flush every 6000 miles at regular oil service ? Thanks
once a year or every other year is fine
if you’re going 6000 miles between oil changes why not just up it to 10 or fuck it 20,000 miles seems good LOL u goof
@@clcampbell85 ?
@@clcampbell85 🤣big perm..i mean worm
good or bad?
As stated in the video I was against them from past experience but was impressed with the new technology...so was a positive test
Regular oil change and there is no need to flush.
Very true if done when needed. Unfortunately that is not the case most of the time
@@BBAUTOMOTIVESERVICESBryan Flushing will not save the engin if it is already burning oil....the damage is done.
@@markwarnberg9504 True for the most part but this was done for an oil pressure issue due to a stopped up oil screen. And it was quite effective.
@@markwarnberg9504 Depends on why its burning oil. Using a flush can free stuck rings.
Good quality synthetic oil changed every 8000 miles , warmed properly everu use should never produce a sludge
THIS IS B&G IS KIDS 0LAY. GET REAL KIDDIES. USE LIQUI MOLY ENGINE FLUSH EACH OIL CHANGE.
Big fan of Liqui Moly! run it in the BMW
👌
Thanks
Meh.. just change ur oil every 5k
Works if you are the first owner Thanks for the chime in!
Some people are meant for youtube, some just aren't.
That's nice. How many fingers?
poor Kenny??
🌲🌲😩😩