NOISY LIFTERS? Motor Flush - Does It Work? HOW TO DO IT YOURSELF
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- Опубліковано 1 кві 2014
- Does Motor Flush Really Work? Lets Find Out. 2008 Chevy Express - 6.0 liter v8. Lifter problem.
Trying out a 5 min motor flush. Changing oil and filter. Trying to get rid of the tick. Might be a broken lifter but have to to try this first.
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MMO totally cured noisy lifter in my 2003 Chevy truck. I ran the MMO for about 2k miles and the lifter noise stopped after about 500 miles, but I left the MMO in the for a while longer, and then changed oil... holy shit! The MMO really worked its magic and removed a LOT of sludge, so much sludge that I had to use coat hanger to keep opening up the drain hole. MMO truly is an awesome sludge remover. Very nice!
This is the kind of guy that overtightens the shit out of oil filters then I get stuck having to chisel it off the next time an oil change is required. Also love the vise grip on the replacement drain plug. Gotta love it !
He didn’t over tighten the filter
@@moedoe9167 considering the hundreds of oil filters I've replaced, he definitely over tightened the filter. You don't need a tool to tighten the filter. Oil up the filter seal, tighten by hand till seal contacts engine block, then continue to tighten up to one full revolution by hand.
Vice grip on a bolt.. I think there's a name for that
Does it leak in 2000 miles tho? Nope
I would fix the low oil pressure by possibly a new oil pump and O-rings on the pick up tube. That might quiet it.
Make sure you use the correct oil that's in your owners manual. Also, try Marvel Mystery Oil.
From a cold start the oil pressure should be around 40. If not, drop the oil pan and clean up the pump and screen.
As for the ticking, there's several things that could be causing it. What you tried may work for someone else. You have to pull out the valves and have a look to get a better idea of what the problem is.
All of these videos were an inspiration to flush the engine on my 2001 Chevy Tahoe! I had poor initial oil pressure combined with noisy lifters!! I drained the oil and filled the crankcase with 2-gallons of gasoline and let is sit for three days. I drained the gasoline and refilled the crankcase with 2-quarts of oil and a 1-gallon of diesel fuel. The then started and engine and let it idle for 5-minutes. I did this three-times over the next day, and then drained and re-filled the engine with oil and new filter. The oil pressure returned to normal and the noisy lifters went away.
I dont know it's a good idea or not but I spun a bearing and lost oil pressure on my 4.3 vortec... mechanic ran some break cleaner in the oil to clean the gunk out. I think it fixed it for like a day until it started knocking and locked up completely lol. My issue was my oil had coolant in it so it wrecked everything over time. If you have a coolant leak with no puddle, suspect it's in the oil!
I use to flush the engines with 3 liters of querosene and 3 of regular oil for 5 minutes and according with mileage I use thicker oil to stop noises
Selling funnels.....
@S w thanks for your reply. Interesting will try it during the next maintenance
Sounds insanely dangerous.. .....kaboom!!! Lol
Trying to squeeze every bit of life left in that thing. I like it.
Thank you for your video. Your tutorial solved the ticking on my 2012 Subaru Tribeca. I noticed that my car was making a ticking noise, sorta like it was a diesel. I had it looked at by a mechanic, he said it was my lifter. Could cost 2-3k or more if I needed an overhaul of the motor. He would have to take it apart. I googled "lifter" and your video came up on you tube. Watched yours and a few others.Went with your suggestion. It was scary listening to the motor as we ran it with the Motor Medic. But we did the full 5 mins.Replaced the synthetic oil w/regular oil. Added Lucas oil treatment instead, as recommended by the mechanic. It sorta still had the ticking, but it had decreased significantly. By the time we drove it for about 40 more miles (nice and easy), the ticking was gone. So thank you for helping us. Oh, we did run a heavier oil also.
One thing I learned using Motor Medic is one 32oz bottle only treats 4 quarts of oil. For most V8 engines that use 6 quarts of oil, you have to use 1 and 1/2 bottles of Motor Medic, or 48 ounces. The bottle also says it may take more than one treatment. Motor Medic also makes Valve Medic for noisy lifters. Motor Medic should probably be used at every oil change for high mileage vehicles. You cant use it once at 300,000 miles and then say it doesn't work. I personally have used it regularly with success! :-) I had a stuck valve, probably intake, causing a lean code. I was over 200,000 miles. I used it 3 consecutive oil changes and it cleared the engine light lean code. My van runs like a champ.
don't toss that quart bottle away, cut the top off and its a perfect funnel too!
Or put your old fluid in those 2 bottles
you mean cut the bottom off? lol
Mind blown
Why have I ever purchased a funnel?
A whopping 51 cents would be wasted then
I recently used this flush in hopes that it would fix my lifter tick. I also added Marvel Mystery Oil to my new oil and a couple fluid ounces of seafoom. My lifters were significantly quieter after about 100 miles. It takes time to flush the sludge out of an engine.
Thanks bro saved me a step i did not really need! Damn noisy lifters . Loved the video. Simple and to the point. I hate those videos created for mechanics with knowledge. I always thrive for the average joe handyman. Thanks for the info..and a extra plus for the skip forward part. Although i would of put it a little back cause I had to back it up to hear what you had to say....
"don't overtighten your filter" as tightening to 87 ugga duggas
🤣🤣🤣 so funny
The best lifter tick aid is ATF, add a quart of that in your oil and run it hard for usually 10-15 miles, learnt it from a dirt track veteran.
Always told lil more than a cap full but ive never tried it
I like it when he says not to over tighten the filter and does just that. Hand tight then 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
This video reminds me of a time when my friend drove his front wheels up onto a pair of those old school yellow metal ramps to change the oil in his Dodge van. He drains all of the oil that will come out of it with the front end elevated, then he starts the engine. I'm yelling at him to shut it down, & he just looks at me like I'M the crazy person. A few seconds go by,(seemed like a few minutes) and he turns the van' s engine off. By this time I am next to the driver door and he looks at me and says "I was just making sure I got all of the oil out. Last time I changed the oil, it was still dirty looking afterward." That was too much for me, because I knew that the oil drain plug was on the center of the pan, real close to the front. I looked at him & said, "yeah, no shit the oil looked dirty; there's probably 3/4 of a quart still in the oil pan, and do you change the oil filter when you do the oil?"
He says, " what? There's a filter for the oil?". I didn't hang out with my friend much after that... stupid actions yield stupid results. By the way, that van ran for about 2 more weeks, before it overheated, then he drove it that way, chucked a rod, kept driving it and seized the motor. Apparently, checking the coolant once and again was beyond his technological skill set. Derp, derp. The End
Yeah I would have definitely stopped hanging out with that dipshit
My experience with a 2000 GMC Savana 350 vortec is similar to Mark Prescott's advice. At 328k miles had a similar noise. Changed oil to 4.5 quarts of Mobil Super high mileage 10-W-30 and a new Fram tough gard filter plus a half quart of Lucas oil stabilizer. 50 miles later, no noise. Engine takes 5 quarts.
Use better motor oil. The Lucas is doing all the work
Wow I just did this too and it worked too I was amazed
Also, when removing old oil filter, check to see if gasket is still on engine. Sometimes they stick to the filter housing. If you install a new filter on top of the old gasket, you will blow oil all over your engine and driveway as soon as the oil pressure comes up!
YEP !
I know the feeling 😂
Yep. I forgot to look. Put on new filter. Started jeep 4.0. lowish oil pressure. Heard...fffsssshhh. shut engine down. Looked under hood. Oil on block etc. Yep. Bout 5 quarts on the ground within 15 seconds of start time. $4.75 a qt. $10 restore. $5 stp stop leak. $18 tufoil/ptfe. What's that...bout $60 on the ground?
I did MM motor flush, drove around with a little "hotrodding" off and on, then used WIX filter, Valvoline high mileage 10w30, and Lucas high mileage. Before my 6.0l sounded like a typewriter from the 1800s, and now it sounds like new. 364000 miles and fixing to drive from Texas to Michigan, then North Carolina.
Same experience here, loads of horror stories about engine flushes on high mileage cars but i went with it anyways and was blown away by the results she purs like new again
By the way the truck made the trip. Wichita Falls, TX to Grand Rapids, MI, hooked up a 30ft RV, and drove to Jacksonville, NC. Then drove around NC for 6 months, then sold truck to a guy in SC.
Man I’m hoping to get my 2001 Toyota Sequoia v8 4.7 to do the same!!!!! What’s hotrodding? And is the Lucas high mileage an oil treatment?
@@like-mindedwellness7586 Yes Lucas oil high mileage is a treatment in the same shape bottle as the transmission additive they make. Grey bottle if I remember right.
People have no idea what they are talking about man. Ive strategically used engine flushes with the same success. No itz not gona bring back bearing material but it will remove varnish from lifters and stuff for u
I did this on a car I wasn't too bothered about and drove it with the flushing oil still in the engine.
After ten miles, the tappet noise magically stopped, and after the oil change the engine was much more lively.
It might be a risky thing to do, but in my case it definitely worked.
I kid you not.
I have built engines for over 30 year while being a professional automotive technician. I had a Service manager at a dealership assign me a used Chevy pickup with lifter noise when hot. First thing was verify then install a mechanical oil pressure gauge. The truck had 7 psi hot oil pressure at idle. I told him that the oil pan needed to come down and the bearings needed to be inspected. He responded with just put lifters in it and see what happens. Needless to say the noise was still there. He authorized a lower end inspection and sure enough four and a half thousandth rod bearing clearance and three and a half on the mains. They all showed minor wear so I had parts get me slightly oversized bearings all around . The oil pressure problem was corrected and the noise was gone. He drove the truck to work and back for a week before admitting he was wrong.
What bearings are we talking about?
Rod and main bearings. It was common to see factory engines with oversized bearings from new 2-3 thousands normally. Lack of oil changes and hard use can cause minor bearing wear enough to cause oil pressure problems.
Yeah, seems like you got a lifter problem for sure bud. Only thing is, by now you’ve prolly got rid of that rig and I am glad to see you’ve tackled this and learned from it. I love your vids and hope to see more of them.
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Like that time wallmart put my drain plug in with an impact... i change my own oil now.
You can use trans fluid to keep the inside of your engine clean. Works good at cleaning and won't harm it. If it's a hydrolic lifter and feel like taking it apart you can use a vice to press out all the gunk in it. They get clogged up and sometimes stay closed due to build up in it. When they're clogged and closed up you will get a noise from it. It's a lot of work depending on the car and if you have someone else do it, it can cost a good amount of money. You can leave about a half a quart of trans fluid in your engine and drive on it. It will keep it clean. I hope this helps for anyone. I'm a mechanic and have done the trans fluid thing in one of my cars for over a year with no problems.
Yh but my car smokes now
Tell me how can I fix that problem I use the seam thing u yes n my car still like it's. A next problem with smoking so I was saying it's the oil rings
I will give this a shot she ticks inconsistently and I have heard this from a few sources couldn't hurt
@@glenparris6852 lol... bro
I had thought of this as a good idea, but a mechanic friend told me that the different oils and additives can swell the seals, so then you have rubber and some gasket problems, also how do you know which atf is safe for this, as I know the wrong atf used in your auto trans can gum it up beyond repair
Its the hydraulic lifters which are making that tappy noise. Pull the valve cover and timing cover off. Release the tension on the cam gears and remove the camshafts. Clean the lifters and put back everything the way it was removed (just the opposite). You will get rid of that tappy noise and have much better function hydraulic lifters. The engine has possibly got another 150,000 miles in it.
Please only hand tight the oil filter and use a spanner or socket to remove the the sump plug. Also please dont use 5W-30. 15-40W is probably the best suited oil given the mileage on the engine and the assuming you are not in freezing weather (wearing a t-shirt).
Lastly dont waste your money on that lifter quiet, engine flush or whatever that was. Read the contents on that bottle, 90% would be hydrocarbons (diesel). I would suggest not putting anything but correct type of engine oil in the engine. If you must, use an engine oil for diesel engine (they have better cleaning properties) to flush the engine and do frequent oil changes to clean an engine of any sludge build ups.
the guy just took his drain boot off with vice grips and tightened his oil filter with a wrench do you really think hes going to do any of the shit you just said. we get it the guy doesnt know anything. we get it you know more then him. we get it youre better than him.
thuglyfe91332 Read my comments again. In what way did you find them insulting or derogatory? I know a lot more about diesel engine than an average person because I am diesel fitter. I was just being helpful to him or others who might read these comments. Even if they dont know who to do it themselves at least they would know what wrongs with their car and know what to expect when they take it to the mechanic. The rest was just advice on engine oil and engine additives. Now you tell me what is the purpose of your comments? Just a stupid troll trying to start a fight? Unfortunately its not going to work here, go find like minded people somewhere else. Goodbye
Don't use 5w-30? That's specifically what it calls for both on the oil cap and e owners manual for those engines on those years. Just saying.
Dillon Scott Not gonna dispute what the company says. I did say "I would suggest not putting anything but correct type of engine oil in the engine". In think 5-30 flows way too fast. That engine has done 300,000+ miles, components do wear out at such high mileages and thicker oil substitutes for the increased clearance between parts. Believe it or not thicker viscosity oils do lubricate the engine components better in hot temperatures. Thats just my opinion, you can agree or disagree, its your choice.
I have a 2001 Silverado with a 5.3 and a 341,639 miles and I have always run the same oil. Only had the valve covers off twice personally through the life of the truck (not including dealerships so who knows about them) and all parts had a solid golden sheen with little to no build up. I do, however, have a lifter tick somewhere on bank 2 towards the front, I believe between lifters 1-4. Crate motors for the same year only cost about $3,000 and are labeled as an OEM Manufacturers Warranty Replacement Part through GM. I understand a new set of lifters would only cost about $200-$350, but the engine has long past its expectancy for my use and has been fantastic. My logic is why spend just a little every now and then on the motor for what I would call regular maintenance when I could get the same life out of a crate that comes as manufacturers spec. Just my input on my thoughts. Feel free to offer your own opinions, whoever chimes in Kamal Benipal
The 6.0 are hydraulic lifters so most likely oil pump or cam bearings at my work we use the 6.0 chevys and with proper care can get 500k out of them but the auto trans don't always last that long
I learned to change the oil about 40 years ago. I was told to wet the built-in gasket to the new filter with a swipe of oil with my finger and hand tighten and just a quarter turn. You really tighten that thing. But I have to admit you know it hell of a lot more about cars than I do
I did a oil change on my van I swapped out 1 quart of oil for one quart of transmission fluid let engine run over 30 minutes noise went away
With the kind of miles on the truck who knows why it is ticking. The first thing I do is put a pint of transmission fluid in the oil. The transmission fluid has high detergents and seal additives. You can drive it with it as it is a lubricant as well. It may take a few days to stop the tick. There way a product called Free Valve, but I haven't used it in years. Trans fluid isn't as good in my opinion, but works in many cases.
1. Drop the oil pan 2. Remove oil pick up sump 3. Is it dirty? Use correct solvents to clean it. If much debris exist in the bottom block remove as much crud as possible. If that doesn't help you need to check your bearings etc.. it's worth the try.
"Don't over tighten oil filter" Right after he way over tightens oil filter.
no shit he way over tighten that filter. lol
I think the same....always do mine hand tight
He did
Then he bitches about having to put an oversized drain plug in because someone stripped it, as he uses vice grips like an amateur. That oversized plug will be stripped in no time at all. 1/2 to 3/4 is way tight enough. I cringed when I seen how tight he put that filter on. Lol
ALWAYS HAND TIGHT ONLY ON FILTER. I HAVE NEVER USED A WRENCH. A real pro always uses vise grips on the drain plug! omg
Thank you for the video cause in some videos they promote these products and I can't accept that these things can fix that problem and you proved I am right.
I just use transmission fluid works like a charm every time I used it on various GM vehicles of various ages
ha! "someone had stripped it out before we bought it," let me grab my VICE GRIPS to take off the pan bolt.... sad.
I find a stripped bolt or nut.. I replace it.
oil plugs are about $5 or less at any auto parts store worth mentioning, and unless you have some wierd gorram car, they'll be on the shelf.
No excuses but laziness.
I think a better option at this point is to just JB weld the plug hole and never change the oil again. Or just change the filter and just add oil as needed.
Oil pan drain plugs often get covered in oil. Combine that with their short height, and most people only have 12 point wrenches/sockets. Oil pan drain plug gets rounded off. Let's pretend he's had the truck for 200,000 miles, and does a religious 3,000 mile oil change - that's around 70 loosening/tightening sequences on that not so great quality drain plug bolt. Vise-Grips will grab that worn out plug nicely, plus he has tons of room to swing. Saved himself $5, probly 5 or 6 times I bet. Stay gold.
I change the oil on my vehicles regularly. I have yet to strip an oil pan drain bolt.
Using the right tool and the right sized tool is important.
If all you have are 12 point sockets and wrenches... invest in a decent set of tools... 12point have their uses but they aren't general use, unless you are being lazy.
5 bucks and doing the job right. It's not that hard.
Hell, get the plug, and a socket to fit it. Spend less than 10-15 bucks and never worry about it again.
Also, most drain plugs are grade 6 or better. So unless you abuse it, it's not going to get damaged that easily.
Good thing too, or 3000+ miles or gravel and other road debris would make the plug a wear item that needs replaced often.
Kal Galath
I agree with what you said, but he still spent no money and his drain plug remove/install procedure works. Stay gold.
I personally used marvel mystery oil before using that crap. Nice try though, but you may want to start saving for another engine. It would be much cheaper than replacing that work van.
Thank you for this video. I work in a Part store and I Was going to buy that motor flush for $6.00 dollars, but not now.
The fact that there is a sucker born every minute is the exact reason "mechanic in a can" products exist in the first place.
Thanks for showing us the results. Now thinking in opening the cover to clean the rockers.
I can honestly say, I've never seen someone use vise grips to remove/install the drain plug
Now you have!
Lifters rarely cause issues on vehicles that are driven a lot. Much more likely on a high mile engine like this that you have a rocker worn past the auto-adjust range, or a cam lobe/roller that is worn. Pouring in snake oil will never fix worn metal.
Best video on UA-cam for lifters! This guy explains better than anyone else!
Rislone high mileage engine treatment is designed to clean lifters while you drive. Safe to add to oil as a top up. And it works. My GM 8.1 had a tick at start up. It would go away after a couple of minutes. Two treatments over two oil changes and the tick on start up is gone.
I had the same noise in my 2005 ford expedition before, finally I found the noise came from the spark plug was broken.
You mean you found out it was a Ford?
As a mechanic and race engine builder for many many years, 5 minutes of above idle with an engine flush product at operating temperature will NEVER be enough to clean any sort of deposits built up. The 5 minutes is nothing more than a money maker from the ignorant person.
The idea is to take the car for a good 50-100km run with the cleaner additive. With variations of heat and oil pressure, the costic solution has a chance to fully circulate and work at fouled deposits through out the engine. Then an oil change can be performed.
The best flush out is and always will be a full engine REBUILD. Prevention is ALWAYS better than a cure.
ALWAYS use premium fuels, oils and lubricants. These premium products have more additives and detergents in them designed to reduce friction and constantly clean deposits.
And ALWAYS service your vehicle according to manufacturers specs. Even intermediate services make a HUGE difference long term. Reliability, durability and the over all structural integrity at a molecular level on engine components.
Sage Advice, Thank you!
This right here! I had a lifter knock in a 4 runner. Put in seafoam 3/4 quart and ran the car 500 miles . No lifter noise anymore. Changed oil. Solved. 5 mins won’t generally do anything.
I've been watching your french drain videos and just stumbled upon this randomly! Thought you looked familiar
I always keep up with regular oil changes and maintenance on my vehicles. I don't drive that many miles anymore, but I still do regular maintenance. Thanks
same kind of tick on my silverado, i changed oil pump and pretty much solved it , oil pressure was low also like yours
I have never seen such a hack job oil change in my life from the over tighten of your oil filter to the vise grips hahahahah ahhah
Let alone the VERY official oil catchpan used, sponsored by Glad trashbags, haha!
That he then probably threw somewhere in the woods
El Cheapo
My experience you need to run this for 30 minutes. 15 minutes at idle and 15 at 1500-2000 rpms. When you refill since this thing has 300K miles use one grade thicker oil and substitute 1 quart of Marvels Mystery Oil in place of one quart of oil for the duration of the oil change as the Marvels Mystery Oil burns off over weeks top up with what ever oil you use. If the tick is going to go away it will do so usually with the MMO aka Marvels Mystery Oil. The reason we go one grade thicker than the OEM recommends is that that 1 quart of MMO will thin out the oil. All of that said with 300K miles and t being a hydraulic lifter OHV engine with a lifter tick and low oil pressure I doubt it will be fixed with a "Mechanic in a Bottle". WHat ever is causing the low oil pressure is the problem.
The vice grip and over tightening the oil filter makes for a good laugh
NEVER use an oil filter wrench to tighten an oil filter, a firm hand tight application is more than enough, and please get the right size socket or wrench on the drain plug
I second this and said the same thing lol
🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂
Or never use vicegrips for a oil plug!
This guy's a goofball
😂
That engine has a lot of miles and you should be running a thicker oil such as 10-40w or 15-40w plus an oil stabilizer. That should help with the noisy lifters and increase oil pressure.
great answer indeed
Always pretreat your new oil filter with oil u will be amazed at the amount of oil a filter absorbs this will keep your motor from running dry during initial startup..
Automatic transmission fluid mixed 50/50 with oil works even better I'm sure, done that a few times and it flushed the lifters out around half the time.
The other half, the lifters probably had a chunk of metal stuck in the tiny little holes in the lifters and the oil pressure wasn't enough to push it out.
It might be bottom end. You can try an additive like lucas oil stabilizer or motor honey to try and raise the oil pressure, but if it is indeed a bottom end problem the engine won't have much more life left in it.
I would suggest when you put your filter back on, to fill it with oil first. And use the right sized socket on your drain plug. And if you had always used 100% synthetic, you may not have had that problem.
The vice grips had me chuckle a bit lol, are you that lazy to just grab the wrench. Why risk stripping it all.
Prefilling oil filters is a useless myth... It's automatically filled as soon as the engine starts...😂
He better go back and finish tightening that filter or it's going to fall off.
Hahaha good one.
Lmaoooo i cringed when he used a wrench on it. I ALWAYS hand tighten my filters
@@sory4beinanonymous
They’re a pain in the on that van though.. as soon as it turns a half inch your fingers are pressed up on the oil pan and doing it on your back takes forever..
Lol
Atf fluid, seafoam, any high detergent oil based product will work but you have to do it a dozen times over say a year or two to get any results. Years of accumulation takes time to remove. Add a quart of atf run for 10m then change oil, then try again with MMO or Seafoam etc, do it over and over and it will clean the interior and reduce lifter noise
Well, I'm no mechanic, especially on newer vehicles, but having owned and grown up with old school chevy trucks, everything from the straight 6 to the rat 454, I would suggest that noise is a bearing going out or that is spun on the crankshaft, causing the engine killing rod knock which usually blows a rod out the side of the block. I used to work at Aarons engine remanufacturing plant in Springfield Missouri, in the engine tear down section, and I have seen a massive list of various catastrophic engine failures in detail while disassembling engines of ALL makes of motors, ford, dodge, chevy, 4 cylinders and up, once a 3 cylinder diesel engine even came thru, but I dont remember which manufacturer it was from. I don't recall any foreign engines being run thru the plant either.... but the list of failures of engines is endless, mostly from engines that had sludge buildup that literally stayed in place as valve covers and timing covers and such were removed, and the sludge was solidified. I have to admit it, but we had engines that looked brand new that came through, mostly because some tolerance spec wasn't met by either the new engine or remanufactured engine, or a faulty part like a broken camshaft or a broken crankshaft bolt or rod bolt or just one of the nuts having come loose....
I reckon thats when they would do that, right away or old and neglected. Unless you get super lucky and its a exhaust man going to have to drop it. How do they re-machine a block like that?
Fill the new oil filter with oil that way you dont have a dry start
Hi I am writing to help the creator of video and anyone else. My dodge charger sounded like your truck. I changed oil using 500,000 mile synthetic truck oil and 1 quart synthetic oil treatment. Anyway mine is super quiet now. Best 2 all.
talking with a buddy that's involved with GM Performance, he stated this lifter tick is common on the LS based engines. he has seen more so than not it's related to the O-ring breaking down on the pick up tube for the oil pump. since its above the liquid level it potentially can suck a little air passed the O-ring. personally it's done this on both service van I have had. 1st was a 6.0l most recently it's the 4.8l and it comes and goes randomly. not saying it's the same on every engine but it's a good place to start. also I might add his oil pressure in this video is not really that low to be honest
Your comment makes sense to me. My car is still relatively new. I made the first oil change for my car. I hand tightened the oil filter. Unfortunately, the loose oil filter caused oil leaking and resulted in low engine oil. I did not know of the engine oil leaking and drove my car with low oil for about 10 miles until a low oil warning message showed up on the car display panel. I fixed the oil leaking, but noticed the engine ticking noise after this instance. I believe in my case some air was sucked through O-ring and caused the lifter tick. What repair do you suggest to fix my case? Thank you for your help!
The low oil pressure might be the o ring on the oil pickup tube.
I had the same lifter noise and mine was caused by debris blocking a lifter from pumping up all the way. I had tried Sea Foam twice with no avail. I tried 1qt ATF plus one bottle Sea Foam and drove 5 miles, no change. 20K miles after all those attempts I finally I put a cup of Dexron VI in the oil and drove it until the tick went away which was around 2K miles.
I just use transmission fluid to clean the engine. Cleans the lifters really well.
👏🏾👏🏾Thanks, Njoyed your video👏🏾👏🏾
I had a side margin pop-up ad "Sponsored by Motor Medic at Walmart" I guess the ad geniuses didn't know this video is not favorable.
how not to change your... never use vice grips and you have to put oil on the seal of the new filter
Brendan Mccabe yup dab your finger in the used or new oil and rub it on your rubber seal on the filter. They'll never get stuck again. Also I think he over tightened it, once you get it hand tight, a quarter turn will do...
+Brendan Mccabe My dad usually fills up the filter with oil before he puts it on just so the pump and the journals aren't dry when you start the engine but yea this guy does oil changes like the shop i used to work at does them they dont even bother to do it right its not about the customer anymore :(
true
+shiftys-wow GM How would the journals be dry? The engine was just running 5 min before. It isn't completely necessary to fill the filter.
+reweydewy youcre right it not but its an extra precaution my dad and I like to take because where do you think the air in the new filter goes when you fire up the engine? thats why u dont have oil pressure for like 10 seconds. It may not rly make much of a difference I honestly dont know but I like to know that I did everything I could to make sure that the engine was lubricated when its started.
I see you went top shelf with the oil, next time some full synthetic oil. I like to use Liqui Moly- just cross reference the oil weight to make sure it’s compatible.
lucuas oil treatment is a real help great stuff
Wow, that filter is WAY too tight! Holy Mother! It doesn't really matter what the manual calls for in terms of viscosity at that point given the mileage of the vehicle. I would personally run 15-40 during the summer and 10-30 in the winter, full syn like Royal Purple. You could very well have a lot of life left if cared for properly.
I thought the same thing, like how many times was he cranking it tight, jeez. I just hand tighten mine, and they have never leaked once, I also wipe just a small but of oil on the filer gasket seal.
Oily hands, I think our guy just wanted to make sure. Lots of filters have a marking on the filter, gasket contacts, then 3/4 turn
Engine flush does not fix broken/faulty parts. That might have cleaned the engine but that doesn't ment that well perform miracles ;)
Fucking idiots and snake oil
Ya this makes sense to me.
As long as we know this isn't due to mechanical part damage.
Someone stripped the old drain plug so I bought a new one that I will now strip with vise grips also I've always been taught that you fill the filter half way and put some around the ring before hand tightening it idk maybe I'm crazy but to just dry install completely no wonder it is still knocking
I tried this on my Suburban with the 5.4 L engine. What I did was drain the oil and remove the filter. Dump the oil out of the filter and fill with motor flush and then add the remaining motor flush to the old oil. Put the filter back on and fill with the oid oil. Then I started it, ran for about 2 mins, stopped and let it sit for 15 mins then started and ran for 10 minutes. Then drain and refill with good oil and change the oil filter. The ticking was still there but over 2 weeks the ticking went completely away. So, I believe it works, just not as fast as one would think.
"You don't wanna over-tighten your filter." Dude you just totally over- tightened it. And unless I'm mistaken on size find yourself a 15mm wrench already.
Hi Chuck, with Apple drains! I love you video's! You will never know how helpful you are to many people. BUT you have never addressed my major problem. I have a washing machine on it's own field line and it is back filling and spilling over into the washroom. Do I need a plumber or a field line guy? Thanks for you vid's
Washer on a Drain Filed Line might need cleaned.(snaked) But it is possible that over time the detergent has clogged the stone in the field. If that is the case, a new drain filed is needed. A Drain Cleaner would be your best 1st choice to help determine. Do you live in Florida? This is common problem in sandy back yards. But it does help keep the septic tank drain field from going bad.
***** This line is not on a tank, do you recommend a good drain cleaner? No I am in Alabama, I sure appreciate your videos, they are great and love your personality! You can do anything!!! what a guy!
+Lynda williams no babe u need me.
+Trev Redcay Get your snake outa Lynda's pipe.
HA!
I got a 2004 f150 with a 6 banger with 223,000 for mileage that ran strong but had a good tick to it, I put a whole jug of hyperlube in and the recommended amount of marvel mystery oil and went to 10-30w oil and it sounds great......took about a week to fix it, I don't drive much....the mechanic in a can worked this time....
It does work but like many things it might be one of those items that only work when it's caught early enough. Tried it my 03 S10 with a 4.3 and nearly 300 000 km / 180 000 miles. It did fix the problem but I caught it early. Noticed it after I did an oil change, used it at my next oil change 5000km later and it did work. Motor oil that I drained was black as all hell after the flush way more so than normal.
"Don't wanna over tighten your filter". Proceeds to tighten the living hell out of it
Lol and uses vice grips on drain plug lol is this for real? Used car salesman?
😂😂
that's thin oil for how many miles it's got ,and that don't sound like a valve tick ,and vise grips really...
Motor medic would've thinned the oil abit that's what the motor medic does
motor flush worked for my car and its good practice for any car every so often but whether it works can depend on different things
my 3.4 V6 GM has 108k on it - I use this motor flush with semi synthetic valvoline 5w30 on every oil change - I think it works if you use it BEFORE this stuff starts happening - I'm pretty sure it liquefies the sludge and build up in tight spots
Hollow knock would be low end and a drop of oil pressure added would make me think it's a low end knock and the main bearings are shot
yes lifters make a high tapping sound. like a ping.
Buddy it's best to pre fill filter with oil so you dont starve engine on start up
Won't the oil make its way down to the filter after you fill the crank case?
@@Ga7cun7sSUCK in a few seconds do you really wanna want the engine to run a few seconds with no oil
I dont usually start it for 5 or ten minutes after filling i just always would have thought being the lowest point it would quite easily make its way there
Using a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in the crankcase made the loud lifter ticking noise in my 2002 Chevy truck disappear. I drove the truck about 400 miles and then changed the oil. The oil was extremely dirty and this was telling me that the MMO was removing the sludge out of the engine.
Could be making noise due to low oil pressure of course. Might want to try Liqui Moly hydraulic lifter additive. It works for me. One can every oil change. Good luck!
Lmaol.... That lifter tick is the oil not making it to the top of the motor in other words your oil pump is out or needs new O ring on pick up tube
Thank for the info going to look into that on my truck lol
Any more info on this
Did you see any metal shavings on the drain plug?
instead of thanking the man for his effort making this video everyone is critical about why he used vice or why not oiling the filter oring etc.. grow up people! he's not a kid and he has the full free will how he handle / treat his properties, And he never said abide by my way in doing it .. the video purpose was obvious from the very beginning, it's about motor flushing not how to do oil change the correct way .
I bought a used truck that ran great, but later developed a lifter tick. I flushed the motor 6 times, as the first time chunks of gunk plopped out, and lessened each flush. Still, after 6 flushes it still ticked!
Then immediately (a couple days later) it developed a head gasket leak, and water got in the oil. I must have drove it with water in it for at least two days. I checked the oil and it was a milky white color, so yeah, water was in the oil.
I bought a gasket sealer that I put in the radiator, and let it run for 15 minutes, drained and left all openings open as directed to dry for 24 hours. I actually let it dry for 48 hours, as I wasn't going anywhere anyway.
I then refilled the water, and replaced the oil, and took off. The water in the oil eliminated the ticking noise!
It also cleaned the motor like it had been soaked in lye! It was spotless inside! Well, at least the heads were spotless, so I assume the block was spotless as well.
Conclusion: When all else fails...put a quart of water in the oil and drive it around for a few hours, then drain. You'll be surprised at the quality results.
yeah "someone""" had striped that plug... cough cough
Yeah, "someone" had rounded off the old drain plug. Wonder how that happened. Using vice-grips perhaps? Seems like you forgot to lube the rubber seal on the top of the oil filter too.
I used motor flush, I then added engine restore in the new oil, Worked like a charm
very great report
About your oil pressure and the ticking noise. 5W30 is way too light of an oil for that kind of mileage. I'd be useing 20w50. As clearances grow from wear you need a thicker oil to cushion the parts. Your oil pump is worn at the same rate as the rest of the engine. Go with a heavier oil and you'll see a better reading on your gauge.
i love to hear the truth from a brother youré right !
its painful for the engine to use 5w30. you can hear its not one knock you hear al the strokes the same noise. i believe when you put in sae 30 your engine runs fine
A thicker oil can actually ware the parts faster. More oil trying to pass through the holes in the engine block plus will clog the oil filter. The key is to use the right oil 5W-30 is fine the big thing is to make sure the oil level is good and dirty oil is changed. If oil level gets too low it causes valve issues rod knock issues
I've used transmission fluid to quite lifter tick works most of time plus it's cheaper
You put transmission fluid in the oil and that works?
@@GEEMONEY973 ATF has a higher cleaning property and cleans sticky parts, I mixed 50-50
MOBIL 1 XP oil filters are by far the best on the market. If you research them you'll see. Try one, and you'll never use anything else. And man, Sure wish you'd just grab 15mm wrench for that drain plug!
Just saw a video on hydrolic lifter ticking, according to the BMW mekanic the lifters have to be bleed, the way to do that is when the car has been sitting, start up and rev the engin at 3000rpm for 2-3min, so as to get the oil pumping up into the head were it has been draining off. Ticking can also indicate that the oil has broken down and needs to be changed.
That's a rod knock, which explains the oil pressure drop. No additive will fix that. And with an engine with over 300 thou, you should probably be running a 10W40 instead of a 5W30, anyhow.
+3J Kreklau The pressure was fine... and for a 300K motor, it's AMAZING!
+seanoleary1979 oil pressure on that motor should be around 40-50 at idle.. He had just over 20 which is not "fine" .. I have same motor on my pickup
+Brent Addonizio : Brent... haven't you heard - Crack is WHACK! I've built upwards of 200 small block Chevys (aside from other motors from other manufacturers) since 1985 in almost every iteration possible; boiling, balancing and clearancing/blueprinting, magnafluxing, chamfering, decking, heat treating, Tuftriding, align boring, boring/honing blocks (with AND without torqueplates) with parts from just about every vendor imaginable, as well as working with other engine builders such as Scott Shafiroff, Bill Mitchell and Scott Merkel. When I tell you that a stock motor running a stock oil pump is "FINE" with 20 lbs of pressure when hot, make believe Jesus Christ just told you! This does NOT include any of the high volume oil pumps from Mellings, Milodon or Moroso or any dry sump systems running molasses-like single-grade racing oil. Basically, if you've got 40-50 lbs HOT in a stock motor, your bypass valve AIN'T working pal, and you have a whole lot more problems coming your way. And yes, it does sound like a rod knock!
+Brent Addonizio in all honesty an engine needs no more than a few PSI of pressure at idle only conditions. The old rule of thumb was 10 lbs for every 1000 RPM's. 20 lbs at idle was great for 300,000 + miles. Hard to tell from the angle / sound of the video but i don't think it is a rod knock - he would probably benefit from using a 40 Weight oil and a good oil stabilizer like Lucas.
+Mark Prescott I have the same motor on my Silverado and I've owned since brand new .. It's a 2000 with 61,000 miles and at idle im around 40 psi .. Is that bad ?
😂😂😂 this video made my day. Lol
There's a difference between cleaning a stuck lifter or internals gummed up... And a flattened camshaft and broken lifter. Marvel mystery oil 1/2 qt at oil change 1/2qt day before change... Drive normal. Has freed anything thing stuck I've ever had.