A lot of misinformation here.... 1. Daylight is WHITE, not yellow. If you use your flash in daylight, you should absolutely not gel it if you want it to match the sun. Throw some CTO on to match the sunrise or sunset, but to suggest that you should ALWAYS gel your flash outdoors is ridiculous and misleading. Look at the comparison at 02:16-the backgrounds of the shots are different color temperatures, far beyond what a flash can light, which means the global color temp of the second shot was adjusted either in-camera or in post. This is a misleading and inaccurate comparison of "no gel vs. with gel." 2. A gaffer is not the one who "moves things around" on a film set... that would be the grips. The gaffer is the head electrician. This might seem nitpicky, but little details like these clue me in on the fact that this guy might not know exactly what he's talking about, and therefore might not be the best source of information. 3. Your flash does not have to be close to your subject at all. It entirely depends on the situation and shot. There are as many situations where it is appropriate to have a light far away as there are where your light should be right next to the subject. Softness is determined by relative size of the light source to the subject, not distance. This is another silly thing to say to someone starting out in flash photography... 4. It's absurd to say that your flash SHOULD be on 1/4 or 1/8th power. Flash power is determined by many elements including the distance of the flash to the subject. There are plenty of situations where having a flash on full power is perfectly appropriate and necessary to get the shot you want. It's fair to say that many people put their flash on too high, but suggesting specific values seems very irresponsible for someone who is presumably trying to help out some beginners. If they're confronted by a scene where a stronger power is appropriate, they may second-guess themselves if they remember this video. Teach people how to use their tools to get the result they want, not formulas for achieving the same old look every time. 5. Aperture, along with shutter speed/ISO should be set to achieve the correct exposure for the entire scene, especially that which is not lit by the flash. Again, you're teaching another formula. Maybe it works for you, but it sounds like a lot of your shots must be pretty similar-looking. These "tips" aren't equipping beginners in flash photography to actually take great portraits of their own, but only to replicate what you do. 6. 03:39 - "[your flash] should be nice and close so it's soft and flattering" 05:11 - "just putting a flash close to someone doesn't make it soft and beautiful" So which is it? Softness of light is determined by the relative size of the light source to that of the subject, and nothing more. A diffuser simply scatters the light around the space and allows it to bounce off the surroundings onto your subject, effectively increasing the size of the source. You could put 3 stops of diffusion directly on your flash head and you'd still get a harsh light, because the size of the light source has barely increased. The reason your collapsible diffuser works is because it effectively increases the light source size to 3 feet, or whatever the diameter of your diffuser. Teach beginners how light works and interacts with their subject-this is far more useful, and better equips them to tackle whatever lighting conditions they're working with. Folks, get a good flash, find a willing (or unwilling but grudgingly accepting) subject, and go out and have at it. Try everything. Whatever modifiers you can get your hands on, bare flash, bounced off the floor, bounced off walls, on-camera, off-camera, rear- and front-curtain sync, everything you can possibly think of. You'll end up with a lot of horrific results as well as a few pleasant surprises, and with every shot you'll have a slightly better idea of what works and what doesn't. In the long run, this will make you a far more competent photographer and will allow you to come up with creative and artistic portraits like the greats do, rather than some boring, formulaic standard setups that make all your shots look the same. You'll also have way more fun.
Scott is my fav! I love his books, too, as they are written in his easy-going conversational style, but are teaching at the same time. Thank you, Scott!!
Kelby’s Flash book is one of my favorites - super clear and easy to follow (like all of his books), on a topic that can be fairly technical, especially with multiple flash set ups. Great photographer, but I think an even better author and teacher.
Grips move equipment, set up rigging, handle camera dollies and handle most of the tasks that involve muscle; gaffers handle the lighting and power distribution. I'm being very general and some of the responsibilities overlap a little (less overlap on union jobs, I believe, but I might be wrong on that). There are specialities like dolly grips, rigging grips, juicers (handling power distribution only). Gaffers work very closely with cinematographers and will often be the ones to closely oversee the choice and placement of lights based on what the cinematographer wants.
Scott, these are amazing tips such a simplistic way you presented. Always when I watch your videos they are fully content filled and full of useful information. Thanks for this video. 👍👍👏
BTW - Scott's book The Flash Book is all you'll ever need to read. He makes things simple so you concentrate on taking the shot, not worrying about the settings. Plus if you learn to use flash properly, you straight away jump ahead of the crowd.
"Move your F stop up" with his age I thought he would be old school stopping the lens down. Up down big small I left this photo game for 20 years the theory is same the format is digital instant seeing all solve all. But I would think BH quality speaker would still use formal photography language. A confident speaker yes
I always knew that you have to use cto gel indoors, not outdoors, to balance the color temperature of the flash with the tungsten or incandescent lights that you find indoors.
I'm new to flash and just picked up an Westcott FJ 400 and an FJ 200 along with a trigger. Question, when I see UA-camrs talking about using 1/4 power, or 1/2 power, etc. for example, how does that equate to Wescott? I ask because if I'm not mistaken, Wescott increases and decreases by stops and 1/10ths of stops. So for instance, would 1/2 power equate to 1/2 a stop? Thanks
The Westcott fj400 can be set manually full power down to 9 stops in 0.1 increments. As for the full and half power it depends on the specific lights being used. But you have a lot of control using the FJ400 being it can be set down to 9 stops. That is a lot as most do not allow that much.
Hello there! I have one question,One stop diffuser of how many inches?what's the perfect size of the diffuser for people portraits indoors or outdoors? And can we buy it from B&H?
Go large Ace! >Mark< Westcott Basics 5-in-1 Sunlight Reflector (50") B&H # WE330 : bhpho.to/3ufJIGK Key Features : White, Silver, Gold, Black One-Stop Diffusion Panel Folds to 1/3 Open Size Includes Storage Bag
Using the gel makes a specific change to the color temperature on the flash while setting the white balance to a different Kelvin temperature makes an overall change.
The without gel pic is simply in wrong color temp. Don’t tell me your gel can make the color temp of the background warmer too. If u wanna compare with and without gel, the background should have remained the same in color temp.
Rosco Cinegel Filter #3409 RoscoSun 1/4 CTO (20 x 24" Sheet) BH #RO3409S: bhpho.to/3n6qRwx >Mark< This 20 x 24" Cinegel Filter #3409 RoscoSun 1/4 CTO sheet is meticulously manufactured on a heat-resistant base polymer utilizing a patented deep-dyed technology for heat stability and superior color transmission. On-line computerized colorimetry continuously monitors color and density against strict standards, thus assuring a reliable and consistent product. AMBER RoscoSun Daylight Conversion filters are a range of amber filters that lower color temperature as needed. Although typically used on daylight 5500K sources to balance with tungsten, the range offers a multitude of technical and aesthetic color correction possibilities.
@@geru2000 I do it without TTL, which I feel is the most inconsistent technology on earth, right up there with the motion activated faucets on airport men's rooms. LOL!!! If I don't have to change my camera settings at all (which I don't while shooting manual flash), then all I have to do is change the power of flash, that's quick and easy. :)
Only 700 views in approximately 2 weeks. I guess more photogs are more interested in the latest gear than in learning or reviewing their craft from an expert.
“¼ power” is a useless tip. Ambient light? Distance? ISO/Aperture? Filters? Modifiers? Max flash power? All variables. Makes me distrust everything else.
This is great. Can you please stop bombing all the videos I watch with the "changed my life" ad? Please? It's starting to have the opposite reaction ...
Which do you prefer: indoor or outdoor portraits?
Outdoor portraits but only when they use gels like he stated in the video it looks much better that way.
Outdoor
@@ared18t what about for blue hour do I use a blue gel?
2:22 Funny how the background color changes with the gel on :D
A lot of misinformation here....
1. Daylight is WHITE, not yellow. If you use your flash in daylight, you should absolutely not gel it if you want it to match the sun. Throw some CTO on to match the sunrise or sunset, but to suggest that you should ALWAYS gel your flash outdoors is ridiculous and misleading. Look at the comparison at 02:16-the backgrounds of the shots are different color temperatures, far beyond what a flash can light, which means the global color temp of the second shot was adjusted either in-camera or in post. This is a misleading and inaccurate comparison of "no gel vs. with gel."
2. A gaffer is not the one who "moves things around" on a film set... that would be the grips. The gaffer is the head electrician. This might seem nitpicky, but little details like these clue me in on the fact that this guy might not know exactly what he's talking about, and therefore might not be the best source of information.
3. Your flash does not have to be close to your subject at all. It entirely depends on the situation and shot. There are as many situations where it is appropriate to have a light far away as there are where your light should be right next to the subject. Softness is determined by relative size of the light source to the subject, not distance. This is another silly thing to say to someone starting out in flash photography...
4. It's absurd to say that your flash SHOULD be on 1/4 or 1/8th power. Flash power is determined by many elements including the distance of the flash to the subject. There are plenty of situations where having a flash on full power is perfectly appropriate and necessary to get the shot you want. It's fair to say that many people put their flash on too high, but suggesting specific values seems very irresponsible for someone who is presumably trying to help out some beginners. If they're confronted by a scene where a stronger power is appropriate, they may second-guess themselves if they remember this video. Teach people how to use their tools to get the result they want, not formulas for achieving the same old look every time.
5. Aperture, along with shutter speed/ISO should be set to achieve the correct exposure for the entire scene, especially that which is not lit by the flash. Again, you're teaching another formula. Maybe it works for you, but it sounds like a lot of your shots must be pretty similar-looking. These "tips" aren't equipping beginners in flash photography to actually take great portraits of their own, but only to replicate what you do.
6. 03:39 - "[your flash] should be nice and close so it's soft and flattering"
05:11 - "just putting a flash close to someone doesn't make it soft and beautiful"
So which is it? Softness of light is determined by the relative size of the light source to that of the subject, and nothing more. A diffuser simply scatters the light around the space and allows it to bounce off the surroundings onto your subject, effectively increasing the size of the source. You could put 3 stops of diffusion directly on your flash head and you'd still get a harsh light, because the size of the light source has barely increased. The reason your collapsible diffuser works is because it effectively increases the light source size to 3 feet, or whatever the diameter of your diffuser. Teach beginners how light works and interacts with their subject-this is far more useful, and better equips them to tackle whatever lighting conditions they're working with.
Folks, get a good flash, find a willing (or unwilling but grudgingly accepting) subject, and go out and have at it. Try everything. Whatever modifiers you can get your hands on, bare flash, bounced off the floor, bounced off walls, on-camera, off-camera, rear- and front-curtain sync, everything you can possibly think of. You'll end up with a lot of horrific results as well as a few pleasant surprises, and with every shot you'll have a slightly better idea of what works and what doesn't. In the long run, this will make you a far more competent photographer and will allow you to come up with creative and artistic portraits like the greats do, rather than some boring, formulaic standard setups that make all your shots look the same. You'll also have way more fun.
I noticed all these things also,this guy doesn't really have a clue.
Bruh! You need a UA-cam channel and should be teaching. lol. This guy is just trying to sell products.
Scott is my fav! I love his books, too, as they are written in his easy-going conversational style, but are teaching at the same time. Thank you, Scott!!
One of B&H’s best videos (tutorials).
Kelby’s Flash book is one of my favorites - super clear and easy to follow (like all of his books), on a topic that can be fairly technical, especially with multiple flash set ups. Great photographer, but I think an even better author and teacher.
of all the turorials I've watched and there's been many, this is by for the best... to the point and very clear
No beating about the bush and always straight to the point!👍
Grips move equipment, set up rigging, handle camera dollies and handle most of the tasks that involve muscle; gaffers handle the lighting and power distribution. I'm being very general and some of the responsibilities overlap a little (less overlap on union jobs, I believe, but I might be wrong on that). There are specialities like dolly grips, rigging grips, juicers (handling power distribution only). Gaffers work very closely with cinematographers and will often be the ones to closely oversee the choice and placement of lights based on what the cinematographer wants.
I just purchased five of your books based on someone's else comments, I am now a fan and student of Scott Kelby 😀
His books were hot in my college campus for all the photo classes
You are my favorite Tutor, Sir. Thank you for this informative video. Greetings from Chowdry Photography, Bangalore, India.
Great video, straight to the point, clear, usable information.
Jell while shooting outdoors, tip #1 was most useful. I generally fixed in post but this is so simple!
Scott, these are amazing tips such a simplistic way you presented. Always when I watch your videos they are fully content filled and full of useful information. Thanks for this video. 👍👍👏
Very useful info and straight to the point. Thanks 🙏🏽
Thank you, Scott. These tips are so simple - and so brilliant! 😉
Thank You, you just made me a better photographer by a factor of 5, and I just purchased everything you recommended
Good thing you didn't recommend Sony's new a1, then I'd be broke right now
Great tips - thanks Scott!
Thank you for the Tips. I think, get a Profoto flash and klick a yellow defuser on your flash 😉 I agree with using Softbox and Reflector
Great video guys!
Love this video!! Thank you!
Thank you for watching!
BTW - Scott's book The Flash Book is all you'll ever need to read. He makes things simple so you concentrate on taking the shot, not worrying about the settings. Plus if you learn to use flash properly, you straight away jump ahead of the crowd.
Thank you ! I was going BH tomorrow anyhow.. just more stuff to put in the shopping cart!
"Move your F stop up" with his age I thought he would be old school stopping the lens down. Up down big small I left this photo game for 20 years the theory is same the format is digital instant seeing all solve all. But I would think BH quality speaker would still use formal photography language. A confident speaker yes
Ole mates great! Killer tips..
most helpful.
much appreciated!
Lol “Don’t use white light outside, it looks dumb” I love the candor
These are some awesome tips. THANK YOU!
Enjoyed immensely.
I always knew that you have to use cto gel indoors, not outdoors, to balance the color temperature of the flash with the tungsten or incandescent lights that you find indoors.
Well done. Many Thanks!
Thank you!
I was looking for a nice softbox, definitely ordering the rapid box
Mr Samson, great guy, great Model.
Thanks. Most videos take 30 minutes to describe what you did in 7:12
great tips!
Great tips, thanks.
Magmod has great system for adding gels
With CTO outdoors do u set camera white balance to AWB or flash
I'm new to flash and just picked up an Westcott FJ 400 and an FJ 200 along with a trigger.
Question, when I see UA-camrs talking about using 1/4 power, or 1/2 power, etc. for example, how does that equate to Wescott? I ask because if I'm not mistaken, Wescott increases and decreases by stops and 1/10ths of stops. So for instance, would 1/2 power equate to 1/2 a stop?
Thanks
The Westcott fj400 can be set manually full power down to 9 stops in 0.1 increments.
As for the full and half power it depends on the specific lights being used.
But you have a lot of control using the FJ400 being it can be set down to 9 stops. That is a lot as most do not allow that much.
❤
I will try the gel... but why does the background change color on the gelled picture??
I think he cooled off the white balance for more dramatic effect for comparison
Hello there!
I have one question,One stop diffuser of how many inches?what's the perfect size of the diffuser for people portraits indoors or outdoors?
And can we buy it from B&H?
Go large Ace! >Mark<
Westcott Basics 5-in-1 Sunlight Reflector (50")
B&H # WE330 : bhpho.to/3ufJIGK
Key Features
:
White, Silver, Gold, Black
One-Stop Diffusion Panel
Folds to 1/3 Open Size
Includes Storage Bag
On tip #1, does it help if you use Kelvin temperature instead of CTO?
Using the gel makes a specific change to the color temperature on the flash while setting the white balance to a different Kelvin temperature makes an overall change.
The without gel pic is simply in wrong color temp. Don’t tell me your gel can make the color temp of the background warmer too. If u wanna compare with and without gel, the background should have remained the same in color temp.
Bonjour Scott
Je vous connais par vos livres
Remarquables !
Peux t on trouver vos tutos
En français ou en espagnol ?
Merci !
Hello. Thanks for the great tips.
I would like to ask: when using that gel, what White Balance one should shoot with, "Flash"? Thanks!
Yup - I leave me set to flash with a gel on. :)
@@ScottKelby Thank you!
What does 'quarter cut' of cto gel mean. It it a reference to 1/4 power with cto gel?
Rosco Cinegel Filter #3409 RoscoSun 1/4 CTO (20 x 24" Sheet)
BH #RO3409S: bhpho.to/3n6qRwx >Mark<
This 20 x 24" Cinegel Filter #3409 RoscoSun 1/4 CTO sheet is meticulously manufactured on a heat-resistant base polymer utilizing a patented deep-dyed technology for heat stability and superior color transmission.
On-line computerized colorimetry continuously monitors color and density against strict standards, thus assuring a reliable and consistent product.
AMBER RoscoSun Daylight Conversion filters are a range of amber filters that lower color temperature as needed. Although typically used on daylight 5500K sources to balance with tungsten, the range offers a multitude of technical and aesthetic color correction possibilities.
@@BandH thanks for such a helpful reply.
What about blue hour or after sunset do I still use a gel?
You may still use a gel in those situations, but it's always best to experiment with it first to see what works best for your style.
@@BandH ok thank you‼️🤞🏾
👍👍👍
What happens when the inside of the softbox is silver; do you still use 1/4 CTO?
I do.
Why no tips for shooting TTL outside?
I don't use TTL, and in fact, I recommend against it indoor or out.
@@ScottKelby Curious how do you handle run and gun type situations?
@@geru2000 I do it without TTL, which I feel is the most inconsistent technology on earth, right up there with the motion activated faucets on airport men's rooms. LOL!!! If I don't have to change my camera settings at all (which I don't while shooting manual flash), then all I have to do is change the power of flash, that's quick and easy. :)
Only 700 views in approximately 2 weeks. I guess more photogs are more interested in the latest gear than in learning or reviewing their craft from an expert.
“¼ power” is a useless tip. Ambient light? Distance? ISO/Aperture? Filters? Modifiers? Max flash power? All variables. Makes me distrust everything else.
So many errory the the verbar explainations and diagramms. What a pity. Usually Scott Kebly is doning well.
This is great. Can you please stop bombing all the videos I watch with the "changed my life" ad? Please? It's starting to have the opposite reaction ...
No. A gaffer is an electrician who sets up lights.
ya know what else looks amaturish? you sitting behind a laptop covering yourself.