Whirlpool Dryer Replace Thermostat & Thermal Fuse
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
- This video provides step-by-step repair instructions for replacing the high-limit thermostat and internal fuse on a Whirlpool electric dryer. The most common reason for replacing the high-limit thermostat and thermal fuse is when the dryer won’t start.
Click here to purchase part #279816: www.repairclini...
Thermal fuse part testing video: • Dryer Not Heating? The...
High limit thermostat testing video: • Dryer Not Heating? Hig...
You can find printable step-by-step instructions here: www.repairclin...
Additional dryer repair, troubleshooting tips, help with finding your model number and part replacement videos: www.repairclini...
All of the information for this heating element replacement video is applicable to the following
brands: Whirlpool, Kenmore, Roper, KitchenAid, Maytag, Estate, Crosley, Inglis, Amana, Admiral
Tools needed: hex socket
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As it turned out, I didn't need to replace these parts to get my dryer working again (it was the heating element), but this video made it very easy to replace these parts nonetheless. Thank you!
Wouldn't it have still spun? Letting u know if it was the thermal fuse or not? I thought the thermal fuse would stop operations...if you get no heat it is still operating.
One red wire goes to the top of the thermostat and the other to the right side element terminal. The orange wire will go on the lower terminal of the thermostat with the new jumper wire. The two wires will need to go together the orange wire will need to be stripped and a new piggyback terminal added to it so both wires can go together on the same bottom terminal of the thermostat.
Why isn't this in the video?
I needed this comment bad lol! Thanks for the clarification.
@bradphenix are you able to dumb what he said down to me?
I really appreciate this video because it shows how to connect the two different types of high limit thermostats that one might encounter for these models. Thank you!
You're welcome!
We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review
We hope that you have a great day!
Guys,..when you are doing repairs,...please do close-up video of the particular section you are working on, so we can see where what wire goes back to each connection! Would really help!
I agree, but also you can slow down the video. Click on the three dots in the upper right corner.
I can't believe how easy this was. Thanks so much for the video.
1:05 when they say this, if you have an orange wire like I did you have to cut the old tip to it and add a bigger one(that should’ve been with the kit) and then added to the red wire with the extra end to it so they create “one wire” again. Hope that helps someone
Your comment was super helpful, thank you! I actually ran the dryer without connecting the orange wire at first and the dryer didn’t stop running until we manually stopped it. I appreciate you taking the time to write this!
@@sylvoszabo3548 yeah no problem! I’m glad I could help someone else. I was lost when I had an extra wire😆
A piggy back terminal allows you to attach more than one wire to a terminal. They are very simple and easy to install.
RepairClinic.com how to connect piggyback terminal of jumper to orange wire?
Man I wanna thank you so much for this video. I was able to fix my dryer…🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
You're welcome!
If you would like to give us a review, here is our link: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review
Have a great day!
Your response was very helpful, but one more question...what is a piggyback terminal and how do you add it? Thank you for all of the great information!
Great tutorial!! My son was able to watch it and fix the dryer within 10 minutes!! Thx!
Shay Pyron Thank you for sharing.
These parts can be tested for continuity. I would suggest heading to the repair help section of our website and using that to help diagnose your problem. I hope this helps!
Thanks for the comment! What is the orange wire attached to?
Great! I'm glad we could help. Good luck with your repair.
Thank you! You cleared up any concern I had with the new part replacing the old part.
No problem! We're glad we could help.
Several things:
1) like this machine, mine did not have a 3rd (orange) wire. Most videos show that wire and require the male / female connector jumpers splice.
2) while I did reset the old (upper) high-limit thermal trip by throwing it on the ground, 15 times before it made, I used it only as a test to prove that that was the only thing holding me back. After installing the new one, threw out the old one.
3) after all repairs kept the back off and checked cycle times (90 on, 45 off). **** This was after a 5 minute initial warm up in a warm house, on a warm day.
4) while I did find a good online vendor from another videos referral, I used Cashwell Appliance in High Point and they were able to walk me through some questions, worth the extra money
5) SCHEMATIC TRAINING ANALYSIS ... GREAT Video:
Dryer not heating up
ua-cam.com/video/yCOPR5HNb20/v-deo.html
No problem! There's definitely nothing wrong with keeping the old thermostat.
What if I replaced all of the parts and it's still not heating
Same here..we've replaced all the necessary parts and dryer still doesn't work
Thermal fuse is what i need... I bypassed it just for a sec to see if the heating element would heat up and sure enough. :)
Thanks for the video. How do I know whether my problem is my heating element or the thermostat? thanks
Looks exactly like my dryer in the back. Needed help removing thermostat. Thanks
One misleading aspect of this video is that what it calls the "thermal fuse" is generally called a "thermal cut-off." The thermal fuse is a little oblong white piece that is located near where the hot air is vented out of the unit. Since this video showed the piece that I knew was broken (the thermal cut-off) and called it a thermal fuse, I ordered the wrong part and had to go to the trouble of returning it and ordering the correct part, the combo thermostat/thermal cut-off #279816.
Thanks for sharing this! It definitely was a huge help as the instructions left a little room for (mis)interpretation.
Thanks for the comment, we appreciate it. I apologize for the confusion regarding your part purchase. Typically the terms thermal fuse and thermal cut-off are used interchangeably and it can be a little confusing. Please do not hesitate to let us know if you need any questions answered in the future.
Does it matter which way the thermostat is turned? In other words, is there a correct terminal to put the white striped wire on?
Thanks for the comment!
What about the orange cable
Awesome video, very detailed and helpful. Dryer heats up again. Thanks so much.
wow thank you, you all made this easy for me!
I totally understood your video and it was extremely helpful; however, I have a white wire with a smaller end left. What do I do with it?
+Cyndi Monte The thermal cut off on the upper section of the heater housing should have two wires. The change in this kit is with the high limit thermostat. The jumper that connected the high limit to the element is now a wire.
@@repairclinic I don’t have the jumper wire on my dryer. Should I still go ahead and install the jumper wire?
Will the dryer still work if I am missing the jumper wire?
I have an older Kenmore 80 Series dryer that has 2 red wires (one with a white stripe) running to both the terminals of the heating element as well as the thermostat (it looks like newer models just bridge the thermostat to the terminal with a red jumper wire, as included in the parts kit...). the non-white-striped wire on the terminal of my dryer has a blackened terminal, which I'll replace. the white striped wire going to the thermostat is similarly burnt. How should I fit this new jumper wire on (i.e. - which wires should I connect, and what should I do with the other wires?). Thanks!
I don’t know if these guys reply anymore, but be careful my red wire with the white stripe just burnt off the white plastic box-like tip around the connector.
@@PBandJ8 Right! I have the same problem. Did you manage to resolve your issue?
@@scottymcknight8298 it’s working without the plastic covering the connector, yes.
Is that safe, I have no idea! 🤷♀️
If the thermostat is the only thing that has gone bad it's no problem to just replace it and not the thermal fuse.
I bought these new parts and for some reason the high limit fuse I got is same as the old one and it slides onto the thermostat but one of the wires won't stay on the connector, the post seems smaller then the connector
Hello, I only changed the thermal fuse, and it worked for a day or so..I suppose I need to change thermostat too.thx
Does it matter which direction the new thermostat goes on? Its completely symmetrical, and I can tell which direction it goes. Yes, I'll make sure to plug the wire back in as they were previously (Blue top, black bottom), but does it matter which direction the thermostat itself is installed?
@@repairclinic Perfect, I got it hooked up and its working great! The jumper from the thermostat to the thermo shutoff was fried, so I replaced both, and the jumper. It was a little corroded, hopefully a little bulb grease will fix that on the connections.
Outstanding video....Simplified the installing process! 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
+6969winston6969 Glad we could help.
Does it matter which wire goes where since there's only 2 wires??
Thank you for showing where the thermal fuse on the heating element.,your video is correct.thanks from got5at12
I see some videos where the jumper wire has to be cut and the new connectors put on. Is that just for certain models?
What is the part number of the new thermostat and the model number of your dryer?
Thanks. Your response definitely cleared up my confusion.
How do you know if the thermostat or fuse needs to be replaced?
I replaced the two parts on the bottom left of the dryer. Would replacing this fix my no heat problem?
Why the jumper wire? If it didn’t have one before.
Thank you Jesus!
Looks like I have the same question as another guy but I don't see an answer yet.... I replaced the fuse because that's what was blown but did not replace the other part because it was not that easy to get out. Is that going to be a problem? The dryer now heats but seems like it is really really hot but maybe I'm just not used to it.
So I have question ; my Amana dryer won’t start. Before but I ordered thermal fuse. In Amazon’s Which come 4 thermal pieces in the order which I changed only two the little two fuse going at the very lower side that almost them looks together each other is what I changed. well but I didn’t change the others two so you think would be problem in a future ? I hope you understand my question. And thank you for read my question have great weekend
What gauge is the wiring for the dryer using? My thermostat had melted the wire due to a corrosion issue, and I need to replace a section of it to run it safely.
Thanks! This was incredibly helpful!
I have an orange wire that leads to the timer that is connected to the original hi-limit thermostat. There is no connection available for that wire on this replacement thermostat. Can I still use it somehow?
I just replaced the high limit thermostat of my Whirlpool dryer using this video and now my dryer won't stop during the "cool down" cycle. If you notice, the original thermostat has 3 terminals but the replacement only has two. I did a little research and discovered issue is caused by disconnected orange wire which originally was attached to the 3rd terminal. When i replaced, I just tapped it off. Any idea on what to do with this "orange wire"
I have the same set up. The kit I bought had 2 connector ends in it. One has a male and female connector. You need to cut the small end on the jumper and crimp the male/female connector to it. Then you need to cut the end of the orange wire and crimp the new 3/16 (i think) connector to it. Then the jumper gets connected as shown in the video. Then the orange wire gets reconnected to the new male/female on the jumper. Hope that is clear.
Thanks a lot. I did that and everything is working perfectly fine now.
my whirlpool has both of these at the top of the vent that comes from the burner Nothing at the bottom. There is also a jumper wire, does that go between the fuse and hi limit? the thermal fuse is checked by continuity but what about the hi limit?
This video comes up with Kenmore Series 80 dryers, but mine does not have a back panel like this.
I have 3 wires on my heating element where does the black one go?
I think the wire is attached to the timer.
I had no heat in my dryer. I purchased a kit and replaced the fuse and it worked, should I still replace the thermostat?
I have done this video multiple times and with multiple new parts to not receive heat, help!
Very helpful video...i was confused with so many parts...its very helpful for me..and easy...thanks
the spades are the same size and the switch can bolt on either way with no indication of whats up or down so my question is does it matter
For the high limit, the larger wire connector from the jumper wire will go on the heater terminal and the other end to either of the high limit terminals. Usually, the lower works best just to keep the wires from crossing. The other wire will go on the remaining smaller terminal. For the upper thermal fuse, it doesn’t matter which terminals the wires go on.
the video is more confusing than it should be. To make it simple for everyone that has the orange wire just do the following. cut the end off the orange wire as closets to the connector as possible. your kit should come with a gold connector, strip and crimp the orange wire onto the gold connector and use the bypass wire provided in your kit to connect both the thermostat to the heating element.
+Edgar Rangel I tried this and my fuse blew the second the dryer was turned on. To be fair I could have screwed something up, but I doubt it since we're talking about 3 wires. Going back to the old high-limit thermostat...
My dryer (Whirlpool LER7646JQ0) has two red wires and one orange wire. What do I do with the orange wire? Thanks
I'm confused! I thought the thermal fuse was a little white thing in a different location. My dryer has that and the thermal fuse in this video. What is the difference??
I replaced the thermal fuse, the thermostat & the heating element & it’s still not drying. Is there any other things it could be ?
No, unfortunately they are not the same fuse and will not work the same.
I kept my thermal fuse to keep using it for my bottom panel was actually burned out
I replaced the sensors and heating element, and now it wont start. The light turns on but wont spin
What is the white thing under the thermostat? I think that's not working and I can't find a name for it anywhere. The thing it connects to
Hi! I have an Whirlpool Heavy Duty model LTE6234DQ3, it's washer and dryer at the same time. Had a problem with dryer because it did'nt heat. First i called an electric technician to repare the problem and it did work for few times, then it stopped towork at all. Viewing videos and reading, i put myself to repair it; i have to buy the Thermal Cut-Off Kit Part Number: AP3094224, because i tested both originals sensors and didn't have continuity between it's terminals, means they where bad. But the proble it's the... Disaster the technician did with the wires that i don't understand the correct position. I see them cut and wrapped in tape. I think he changed the position of wires and put to work direct and only with the high sensor untill it burned and stopped to work. I found this: 3 wires comming from de front command panel, one of them (a thin one), it divides in two more, the another two are thick (one of them it's red color and the other it's red with a white line). I need to know the correct position of wires, i think he cut another wire that was before but he changed the conections. Testing with multimeter and putting in the selector the automatic heating (both high and low temperature), i found 235 V between red thick and red-white thick wires, same with red thick and red thin. Combination red-white thick and red-white thin goes to 0,370 V. When i put the selector in high normal temperature (not automatic heating), voltages changes. Red thick and red-white thick goes to 235 V, red thick and red-white thin goes to 140 V, and red-white thick and red-white thin goes to 90 V. What's the correct position i should to put in the sensors? Sorry my english if it's but written, i'm from Venezuela. Greatings! Thanks! P.S.: I proved the next conection: i put the red thick wire to one terminal of the cut off sensor, made a bridge wire between the another terminal of the cut off sensor and one terminal of the high limit sensor, the red thin wire that divides in two, one wirre put in the another terminal of the high limit sensor and the other to the heater resistence, the last red-white thick wire put to the other terminal of the heater resistence. Please help. I don't want to burn it again.
Thanks so much for these videos!
My Maytag Bravos steam dryer (model MED6600TQ0) will not start. The display is on but the dryer only clicks and doesn't come on then gives me a F1 error. If I replace the High Limit Thermostat and Thermal fuse will this fix it?
Do the wires need to be put back in any particular way?
No, no polarity on a two wire thermostat or fuse like this as long as they are the correct two wires. Thanks!
Fuse test good. high-limit thermostat bad. Replaced high-limit and did not mark which wire goes where. I know one wire goes to thermal fuse the other goes to heating coils that are attached to high-limit thermostat. Does it matter which is clamped where?
You can switch the wires on both the limit and thermal fuse. The only thing you need to make sure of is that the large terminals are attached to the large spades on the element. The large terminals on the element can also be reversed.
I have the same parts and replaced them and wired them as they originally were, however mine did not have a jumper on the lower heating element connection as shown in the video...after replacing all these parts dryer still does not get hot. Does making a jumper cable like this bypass any safety features? Should I try it?
I got same problem. Did you use the jumper wire to fix it? Thanks
How do you know which terminal is which on the thermostat? You know, so you have the correct wires connected to the correct terminals.
If there are only two wires to the thermostat it does not matter which wire goes to what terminal as there is no polarity on a two wire thermostat. If there are more than two wires from the old thermostat to the new see the instructions included with the thermostat for wire splicing information. Thanks Mitch!
What about the fuse? Does it matter which wire goes to which terminal?
Same deal, if it is two wire no polarity on an alternating current system.
Thanks!
RepairClinic.com What about when changing the cycling thermostat?
I replaced the heater high limit thermo fuse, heating coil and the thermostat on electric Maytag centennial dryer and it still does not heat up right. Heats up some but not all the time. Is there another part that would cause that?
Did you ever figure out the problem? We have the maytag centennial and it has been a lemon for us. Maytag finally just gave us a refund for the cost of the unit after sending out technicians multiple times. We replaced the heating coil last year but now we have no heat again. We will try doing thermostat and fuse but may just give up on it and find a new one
i followed this video to the letter but i noticed when you replaced the High limit thermostat, the smaller wire that you initially pulled off, (to where you now put a jumper wire) has no place to go, am i missing something? And now my dryer won't turn on when i put it on air dry... please help!
Do not replace the back panel just reinsert it. I think they made a mistake when they said to replace it.
not sure what I did wrong but after doing the replacements my dryer doesn't turn on at all now. The issue i was fixing was to just restore my dryers heating but for reason the dryer has no power now. any suggestions?
You ever figure it out. I’m having same issue.
After following these directions, my heater burns too hot, even when set at low settings. Does this mean I connected the wires incorrectly?
You may have a shorted element. I would test the heater element with a meter. Unhook one side of the element and with the meter set to the ohms setting check across the element terminals. You should get a ohm reading if the coil is good. If one of the terminals shows a reading to the case the element is shorted and will need to be replaced. If the element checks good. The cycling thermostat may be bad or you have bad air flow from a restricted vent or blower wheel causing the heat to back up.
Guys my thermal cut off keep blowing. Can y’all help?
Thank you 🙏 no like or add me lol straight to the point
Hello, I replaced thermofuse # 3977393, but I got confused with the cables conection. Does it matter which cable is conected to each terminal or they have to be in the right circuit polarity?
thank you! 👍
I mistakenly cut the red wire instead of the orange to attach the piggyback. How do I add the white plastic connector and what is the actual name of that adapter? Thanks
The white plastic is a protective sleeve that is not sold as a separate part. You can install a new ¼ inch terminal on the wire and use a screwdriver to release the plastic cover off the old one and put it on the new one. The terminals are part # 240984 and are cheaper in a pack rather than to buy one. You also may be able to find one at an auto parts or hardware store.
It would have been nicer to get close up pic of wires to thermosrat...amd too fast
will kit 279816 replace 8577891> very similar but i will have an extra wire that connects to nothing
Not that we know of Greg
I got the part to change my high limit thermostat, but it did not come with a jumper wire nor screws. How can I get these? Or do I need to re-order the part?
The kit part # 279816 should come with the jumper and screws. If the parts are missing and you purchased them from us you will need to give us a call at 800-269-2609 and have your order number ready and we can get a replacement kit to you. The jumper wire is not sold separately.
Can anyone tell me if the high level thermostat has a specific top and bottom that one side must be the jumper wire and the other must be the power wire? I'm not positive if it matters which terminal on the thermostat I should put the jumper on, or if it doesn't matter at all.
The high limit thermostat terminals are both the same size. It doesn't matter what terminal is connected to the jumper wire. Either way will work.
Thank you!
My hi limit thermostat does not have that tab that connects to the heating element. I did not take a photo when I was disassembling it. I need guidance. Mine is part no. 3390291
Did you figure it out
No. Bought a new one
It shows how to replace but doesn't show the test. How to identify if these high-limit thermostat and internal fuse are bad.
+Irani2Canada For the part testing video click here: ua-cam.com/video/WJB8Y2tjYks/v-deo.html For the thermal fuse testing video click here: ua-cam.com/video/3nicyh6EUHc/v-deo.html
according to Searspartsdirect website this is the kit for my dryer. but my model has 2 wires connecting to the heating element and 2 wires connecting to the high temperature thermostat. is this compatible with my model? and if so how should I connect it
+Swirvithan LGoodlingSplatt If you type your model number into the search box on our website (RepairClinic.com), we'll show you the exact kit for your model.
Whirlpool Dryer #WED5300SQ0
What are those part number for three thermostats?
1. Top Right Thermostat (name/part#)
2. Bottom Right Thermostat (name/part #)
3. Bottom Left (name/part #)
I replaced the thermal fuse heating element and hi temp cut off on my kenmore 600 electric dryer and now i have a burning plastic smell coming from the dryer and when I tried to dry a load the dryer was smoking is this something I connected improperly?
If you replaced your original thermostat with one of higher temperature you have the risk of catching some fire (if you don't have a fuse) in your dryer either with the lint or your clothes I guess. If it's the same capacity then it might be the plastic housing of the same thermostat the one that smells but there shouldn't be a problem.
thanks so much it ended up being the dryer cord I had to replace it also
I am replacing the heating element in a Whirlpool dryer. Will the old thermostat from a Whirlpool heating element, part # 8565582, fit in the new heating element part #279838? Or do I need to buy a new thermostat along with the new heating element?
Thanks.
The thermostat should fit with this heating element. When a part number is substituted, it typically does not change it's compatibility with existing parts.
Thanks. Got it fixed and saved money.
You folks left out where to connect the last lead that previously had been on the element, it seems. Cornfusing!
+Kendall Dorsey The main difference is the old high limit had a built in jumper wire and in this kit you add it.
Can I purchase new red wires from your site?
Replace all 4 thermostats/ relays and my dryer still runs for five minutes and stops. Any suggestions?
Could be the timer or knob. Check if it has continuity and might be a easy fix using sandpaper. They have diagnostic videos on YT.
@@HM-yr1vr Thanks for the response. It turns out it was the motor. Replaced it and it's working great now.
Sweet!
I entered the model number of my Kenmore dryer (110.64602300) in your website and was directed to three parts, two of which are installed in this video. The other is the white thermostat (2651/279816). Unfortunately, the only part that fits my dryer is the white thermostat, despite your website saying that they all fit. The high limite thermostat is somewhat similar to mine, but is definitely the wrong part. And that red jumper wire doesn't even exist on my dryer. Do you offer any phone support? If not, I'll have to go to an appliance store and buy the parts. Too bad because I was so excited to find this site!
Jeff C That is the right kit for your model. The high limit shown in the video at the 31 second mark is likely what you have. This kit replaces that old style high limit thermostat. The jumper was built into the old part, you have to add the jumper to install this kit as shown at the 1:10 mark.
***** I see, but when I try to install the new one there's no way of telling which prong belongs in top. Of I flip it around it fits with either prong at the top and both prongs look identical. Does it matter which prong is which? One of the issues was that the jumper cable would not slide into the prongs. I tried pushing it on and it just doesn't fit. Pleas let me know which way is up. The writing on it says nothing about this. Thanks.
Jeff C No polarity on the either the fuse or high limit thermostat. Just make sure the correct two wires are connected to them. Does not mater top or bottom terminal as long as the wires are correct.
***** You're right..my old high limit thermostat looks like the one at :31. The one I bought looks like the new one (with the jumper cable). When I tried to install the new one, as shown in this video, there's still an extra orange wire that has nothing to connect to, so I assumed it's not needed and that it may have been replaced by the jumper wire. Not so, says Sears. He said I need to slice the orange wire into the one that's plugged into the white heating core on the right. Ain't gonna happen. I'm afraid to connect this now given the smoke that came out. (He said I may have damaged the dryer.) Anyway, the first parts I bought, on Amazon, includes a high limit therm that looks more similar to the old one, but not exact. I will take another look at that one. I wish Sears had instructions like this...theirs looks like something from the 1970s!
Why so many thumbs down 👎? What’s wrong with the video?
nice
does it matter which wire goes where?
For the high limit, the larger wire connector from the jumper wire will go on the heater terminal and the other end to either of the high limit terminals. Usually, the lower works best just to keep the wires from crossing. The other wire will go on the remaining smaller terminal. For the upper thermal fuse, it doesn’t matter which terminals the wires go on.
Like this dryer, mine doesn't have the 3rd (ORANGE) wire as seen in videos like this (ua-cam.com/video/YfYnJ8_7VQc/v-deo.html or ua-cam.com/video/xLZAY1fM6VY/v-deo.html) ... I've got the tab but not the wire. Any reason?