I replaced the sensor and it's still not running right and then shuts off and that over heating message on the guages comes back on again. I did notice one of the two wires on theback of the connector was off so I pushed it back in and I connected it back to the sensor. What do I do next? Do you think the problem is with the connector? I need some help.
@LivingtheNorthernLife I reset it but it came back. Let me explain. I replaced the sensor and when I was going to place back the connector I noticed one of the two wires in the back had been pulled out. I don't know If I did that when I was trying to remove the connector from the sensor. I don't know if that could've been the original problem or if I did that. We, ll I peeled back the plastic, twisted the copper wires and made it pointy. Then I pushed into the tiny hole in the back of the connector and pulled back a little to make sure was secure in there. Then I put back everything and Like I said I reset the code and started the engine. I start ok the a couple of seconds after that it started rattling and that code came back and it started sputtering and when I pressed on the gas it turned off. First thing I thought to myself is that the connector is bad. Well I ordered it and I thought it was going to arrive today but it wasn't in my mailbox. Maybe it will get here tomorrow. Well, when I get it I'm going to splice it and connect it to the sensor and see if that was the solution. I will keep you posted. Do you have anything in mind something else it could other than what I've done?
What happened if the tip of that sensor is broken. How do you get it out of there? I’m not for sure if it’s in there cause I don’t have a little camera to look in there.
We're not mechanics so you might want to talk to one before proceeding. I would assum that the point might be below the exhaust valves and may have dropped down into the cats but I wouldn't really know to be honest. Not sure that helps but that's the best I could offer. Andrew
Is this the 2.0? I just had this issue on a 2019. Out of nowhere it gave me the overheat warning and the car went into limp mode. I parked it for 30 mins or more and the temperature gauge would not move off hot. I had a code reader so I thought maybe if I clear the code it will move the gauge back to normal and lo and behold that’s what happened! I would have needed a tow truck if I did not have the scan tool. I’m really beginning to hate this vehicle and I think it’s going to turn into a money pit. It is so hard to work on because of how everything is crammed in there. It’s the worst Ford I have ever owned. I’ve been driving Fords all my life and I’m thinking I should switch brands but I have a feeling that everything these days is made similar to this. They have it designed such that most people have no other choice but go to the dealer. A parts guy at the dealer told me that his buddy had to change headlight bulbs on a Focus and it was going to cost like $700-800 to do it as the entire front bumper has to come off just to do that. The guy did it himself and it took him the entire weekend to get it done! Manufacturers should not be allowed to do this crap!
We have a 1.5L. This vehicle is really terrible. We are considering, for the first time, switching to a Toyota. I agree with everything you said. We have replaced the passenger side low beam bulb 4x now. We’re going to try LED’s to see if that “fixes” the issue but WOW! What a lemon.
@@newfie-dean5803 It's all done for money making. I'll bet you dealers lobby the big corporation to convince the to make it almost impossible for the lau perspn to fix their own car. Well, let me tell you what I've done so far and you know now that you mention it. I never did get try erasing the code before I started working on it. Maybe I could've erased the code. Maybe not. Look this is what I've done so far. I reset it but it came back. Let me explain. I replaced the sensor and when I was going to place back the connector I noticed one of the two wires in the back had been pulled out. I don't know If I did that when I was trying to remove the connector from the sensor. I don't know if that could've been the original problem or if I did that. We, ll I peeled back the plastic, twisted the copper wires and made it pointy. Then I pushed into the tiny hole in the back of the connector and pulled back a little to make sure was secure in there. Then I put back everything and Like I said I reset the code and started the engine. I start ok the a couple of seconds after that it started rattling and that code came back and it started sputtering and when I pressed on the gas it turned off. First thing I thought to myself is that the connector is bad. Well I ordered it and I thought it was going to arrive today but it wasn't in my mailbox. Maybe it will get here tomorrow. Well, when I get it I'm going to splice it and connect it to the sensor and see if that was the solution. I will keep you posted. Do you have anything in mind something else it could other than what I've done?
@@alfonsoramos5597 I had that issue and so many other drivability problems for about 2 months. Random codes, serious power loss, etc. Then all of a sudden everything fixed itself. I did replace the T-bolt that connects the positive battery cable and I did notice the vacuum boost pump connection seemed a bit loose so I wiggled that around a bit. I would not be surprised if Ford did something to the car through the FordPass app to try to force me into the dealer. In today’s world, this could happen. It’s been over 3 months and all has been good since. It’s great when a car fixes itself!
I replaced the sensor and it's still not running right and then shuts off and that over heating message on the guages comes back on again. I did notice one of the two wires on theback of the connector was off so I pushed it back in and I connected it back to the sensor. What do I do next? Do you think the problem is with the connector? I need some help.
Do you have an OBD2 unit that can reset the error code?
@LivingtheNorthernLife I reset it but it came back. Let me explain. I replaced the sensor and when I was going to place back the connector I noticed one of the two wires in the back had been pulled out. I don't know If I did that when I was trying to remove the connector from the sensor. I don't know if that could've been the original problem or if I did that. We, ll I peeled back the plastic, twisted the copper wires and made it pointy. Then I pushed into the tiny hole in the back of the connector and pulled back a little to make sure was secure in there. Then I put back everything and Like I said I reset the code and started the engine. I start ok the a couple of seconds after that it started rattling and that code came back and it started sputtering and when I pressed on the gas it turned off. First thing I thought to myself is that the connector is bad. Well I ordered it and I thought it was going to arrive today but it wasn't in my mailbox. Maybe it will get here tomorrow. Well, when I get it I'm going to splice it and connect it to the sensor and see if that was the solution. I will keep you posted. Do you have anything in mind something else it could other than what I've done?
What happened if the tip of that sensor is broken. How do you get it out of there? I’m not for sure if it’s in there cause I don’t have a little camera to look in there.
We're not mechanics so you might want to talk to one before proceeding.
I would assum that the point might be below the exhaust valves and may have dropped down into the cats but I wouldn't really know to be honest.
Not sure that helps but that's the best I could offer.
Andrew
Is this the 2.0? I just had this issue on a 2019. Out of nowhere it gave me the overheat warning and the car went into limp mode. I parked it for 30 mins or more and the temperature gauge would not move off hot. I had a code reader so I thought maybe if I clear the code it will move the gauge back to normal and lo and behold that’s what happened! I would have needed a tow truck if I did not have the scan tool. I’m really beginning to hate this vehicle and I think it’s going to turn into a money pit. It is so hard to work on because of how everything is crammed in there. It’s the worst Ford I have ever owned. I’ve been driving Fords all my life and I’m thinking I should switch brands but I have a feeling that everything these days is made similar to this. They have it designed such that most people have no other choice but go to the dealer. A parts guy at the dealer told me that his buddy had to change headlight bulbs on a Focus and it was going to cost like $700-800 to do it as the entire front bumper has to come off just to do that. The guy did it himself and it took him the entire weekend to get it done! Manufacturers should not be allowed to do this crap!
We have a 1.5L.
This vehicle is really terrible.
We are considering, for the first time, switching to a Toyota.
I agree with everything you said.
We have replaced the passenger side low beam bulb 4x now.
We’re going to try LED’s to see if that “fixes” the issue but WOW! What a lemon.
@@newfie-dean5803 It's all done for money making. I'll bet you dealers lobby the big corporation to convince the to make it almost impossible for the lau perspn to fix their own car. Well, let me tell you what I've done so far and you know now that you mention it. I never did get try erasing the code before I started working on it. Maybe I could've erased the code. Maybe not.
Look this is what I've done so far. I reset it but it came back. Let me explain. I replaced the sensor and when I was going to place back the connector I noticed one of the two wires in the back had been pulled out. I don't know If I did that when I was trying to remove the connector from the sensor. I don't know if that could've been the original problem or if I did that. We, ll I peeled back the plastic, twisted the copper wires and made it pointy. Then I pushed into the tiny hole in the back of the connector and pulled back a little to make sure was secure in there. Then I put back everything and Like I said I reset the code and started the engine. I start ok the a couple of seconds after that it started rattling and that code came back and it started sputtering and when I pressed on the gas it turned off. First thing I thought to myself is that the connector is bad. Well I ordered it and I thought it was going to arrive today but it wasn't in my mailbox. Maybe it will get here tomorrow. Well, when I get it I'm going to splice it and connect it to the sensor and see if that was the solution. I will keep you posted. Do you have anything in mind something else it could other than what I've done?
@@alfonsoramos5597 I had that issue and so many other drivability problems for about 2 months. Random codes, serious power loss, etc. Then all of a sudden everything fixed itself. I did replace the T-bolt that connects the positive battery cable and I did notice the vacuum boost pump connection seemed a bit loose so I wiggled that around a bit. I would not be surprised if Ford did something to the car through the FordPass app to try to force me into the dealer. In today’s world, this could happen. It’s been over 3 months and all has been good since. It’s great when a car fixes itself!