I just found this video after putting in more details into my search criteria. I wasted time watching others remove switches with different brackets. Thank you for showing the details on this! I finally got the switches out!
Just wanted to say thanks on how to remove the interlock switches for the microwave door latch. I studied the heck out of them. All 3 have a slightly different approach so as to not break the post that anchors them. Again. Thank you. One suggestion. Try to evenly light your projects from the start. Looks more professional and you're less likely to lose a viewer from the get go. Trust me. I worked in tv production for over 40 years. Yes. I'm an old fart. But I do appreciate when an honest effort is made to help us folk out here. Kudos!
THANKS! My MW is a little different (Black 2012 model). I spent over an hour trying to puzzle out out to remove that same switch (even has the same red actuator button) without damaging the switch tray/bracket. So I just happened to find your video on the first try. I removed the switch tray/bracket unnecessarily for a better look. Thanks again!
Good job - very helpful. If I were to add any comment it would be regarding the correct switch for the correct position. Users changing switches need to ensure they replace a NO (Normally Open) switch versus a NC (Normally Close) switch. Therefore, users should be mindful of the type (NC or NO) switch they are replacing.
I had an awful time disconnecting the wires from the switch. If this happens to you, put the swith back in and use a screwdriver in the small slot between the green wire housing to pry it off. Trying to pull the wires from the switch (for me) was the hardest part of this fix. Preferably use the screwdriver in the slot BEFORE you remove the switch.
This may not be the case for this microwave but mine is a built-in over the range. Not necessary to remove the cover, or take the unit off the wall. Removing the keypad at the front enables access to the door switches.
Outstanding video is right. You're a great teacher! I know its difficult to video yourself, but if more of the object your working on at the moment was in the picture, would be a perfect video.. God bless
The explenation is very simple and I really appreciate that, but it would help greatly if the switch that you are talking about is kept within the video frame
Great video. I'm curious as to what type of light and bulbs you used to light this scene. It gives it a really cool/epic look. I'm into filmmaking/photography and would like to get a cool look like that. Thanks!
Is that really safe, using a u shaped wire to discharge the capacitor? Other videos have recommended using a wire with a resistor or a screwdriver with an insulated handle. I am a little nervous about messing with the capacitor.
4:50 So my problem is it won't come off the wires, 2 metal "crimp" ends with 3 slots are connected to the contacts of the switch & they won't budge even a bit. like the wire you have on your second switch. But i can't figure out how to get them off so i can put the new one on, & i already broke the top of a clip of the switch holder trying to do it.
My microwave powers up after I close the door and hit the timer. However, the light is not, the glass plate doesn't rotate, and I can tell the Magnetron is not energized. If I push the door latch release in ever so slightly, the light comes on and I can hear the microwave energize. The glass plate starts to rotate also. Which door switch would cause this condition? Thank you.
The screws on the back of my microwave are really weirdly shaped. They are torx screws, but not only that, they have pins in the middle. Why the hell would Kenmore put such difficult screws in there? I mean, what average person just has that screw driver laying around. Super freaking annoying.
Hi CJ -My GE JVM3160DF4WWW is 1.5 year old. I installed it with a friend. Symptoms: At times after using Microwave and removing the cooked item, the Microwave light and low fan come on by themselves. Also when setting the Microwave to cook.,the chosen number of minutes is shown in the display but sometimes the Microwave will not start unless you open and close the door and re-press the start key. In both situations, the problem was related to opening and closing the door, so I think one or more door switches have stopped working properly. From what you say it appears that the bottom switch may be the defective one. I admit I might have caused this by stopping the microwave by opening the door instead of hitting the stop button. My major problem is this: I was able to install this over-the-range microwave with an assistant. It was very heavy and not easy to install. I dread the thought of removing the microwave to attempt to fix the problem. I realize this is the preferred way to do this as one is encouraged to defuse the microwave to prevent a dangerous shock. Is there any way one can safely test and remove the switches without removing and opening up the Microwave? There are a few DIY videos where it appears the grill and control panel is removed, the switches replaced through the front without diffusing the capacitor. Is there a safe way of doing this?
Ribsandwich9797 usually its the bottom one. Once you remove it, you will notice it may be slightly melted at the contacts, the wires may shpw signs of being hot, and the switch may no longer click like it should.
I just found this video after putting in more details into my search criteria. I wasted time watching others remove switches with different brackets. Thank you for showing the details on this! I finally got the switches out!
Just wanted to say thanks on how to remove the interlock switches for the microwave door latch. I studied the heck out of them. All 3 have a slightly different approach so as to not break the post that anchors them. Again. Thank you.
One suggestion. Try to evenly light your projects from the start. Looks more professional and you're less likely to lose a viewer from the get go. Trust me. I worked in tv production for over 40 years. Yes. I'm an old fart.
But I do appreciate when an honest effort is made to help us folk out here. Kudos!
THANKS! My MW is a little different (Black 2012 model). I spent over an hour trying to puzzle out out to remove that same switch (even has the same red actuator button) without damaging the switch tray/bracket. So I just happened to find your video on the first try. I removed the switch tray/bracket unnecessarily for a better look. Thanks again!
Great video, thank you! Your instructions are clear, thorough and easy to understand. Well done sir!
Thank you CJ. Microwave tried to die six days before Christmas, but you saved the day.
Thanks for sharing, I was brainstorming how to remove it, but your video showed how to get it off.👍.
Good job - very helpful. If I were to add any comment it would be regarding the correct switch for the correct position. Users changing switches need to ensure they replace a NO (Normally Open) switch versus a NC (Normally Close) switch. Therefore, users should be mindful of the type (NC or NO) switch they are replacing.
Outstanding video very informative and to the point very helpful thank you so much !!
Great video CJ!❤
I had an awful time disconnecting the wires from the switch. If this happens to you, put the swith back in and use a screwdriver in the small slot between the green wire housing to pry it off. Trying to pull the wires from the switch (for me) was the hardest part of this fix. Preferably use the screwdriver in the slot BEFORE you remove the switch.
This may not be the case for this microwave but mine is a built-in over the range. Not necessary to remove the cover, or take the unit off the wall. Removing the keypad at the front enables access to the door switches.
do you have a video how to take the pad off? I need to replace mine bu I cant figure it out
exactly and its safer so you dont have to fool around the capacitor
Outstanding video is right. You're a great teacher! I know its difficult to video yourself, but if more of the object your working on at the moment was in the picture, would be a perfect video.. God bless
The explenation is very simple and I really appreciate that, but it would help greatly if the switch that you are talking about is kept within the video frame
Very helpful. Thanks I have one suggestion, the lighting seemed to be a little fuzzy.
Outstanding saved me from buying a new microwave.
Thank you very much. Excellent video. Very informative. You'd make a good teacher.
while you were removing the door switch i could not see a thing or hear you that well
This is very helpful but the part to push on bottom switch is on back side and not as I’m easy when in the unit!
Excellent instruction....Thank you!
Thank you. I'm glad I could help. Merry Christmas.
Great video. I'm curious as to what type of light and bulbs you used to light this scene. It gives it a really cool/epic look. I'm into filmmaking/photography and would like to get a cool look like that. Thanks!
does this apply to ALL microwaves? (I have an OLD Panasonic, THE GENIUS - Dimensions 4. the button at front has broken
YOU THE MAN!!
Great video. Thanks !!!!
Is that really safe, using a u shaped wire to discharge the capacitor? Other videos have recommended using a wire with a resistor or a screwdriver with an insulated handle. I am a little nervous about messing with the capacitor.
just avoid the capacitor altogether if you dont need to work on it and just replacing switches. Thats your safest route.
@@eddieperez5549 Okay, thanks
4:50 So my problem is it won't come off the wires, 2 metal "crimp" ends with 3 slots are connected to the contacts of the switch & they won't budge even a bit. like the wire you have on your second switch. But i can't figure out how to get them off so i can put the new one on, & i already broke the top of a clip of the switch holder trying to do it.
My microwave powers up after I close the door and hit the timer. However, the light is not, the glass plate doesn't rotate, and I can tell the Magnetron is not energized. If I push the door latch release in ever so slightly, the light comes on and I can hear the microwave energize. The glass plate starts to rotate also. Which door switch would cause this condition? Thank you.
Where does green wire on the top swtich goes , i changed the top sitch but i forgot where it goes. Cheers
The screws on the back of my microwave are really weirdly shaped. They are torx screws, but not only that, they have pins in the middle. Why the hell would Kenmore put such difficult screws in there? I mean, what average person just has that screw driver laying around. Super freaking annoying.
Hi CJ -My GE JVM3160DF4WWW is 1.5 year old. I installed it with a friend. Symptoms: At times after using Microwave and removing the cooked item, the Microwave light and low fan come on by themselves. Also when setting the Microwave to cook.,the chosen number of minutes is shown in the display but sometimes the Microwave will not start unless you open and close the door and re-press the start key. In both situations, the problem was related to opening and closing the door, so I think one or more door switches have stopped working properly. From what you say it appears that the bottom switch may be the defective one. I admit I might have caused this by stopping the microwave by opening the door instead of hitting the stop button. My major problem is this: I was able to install this over-the-range microwave with an assistant. It was very heavy and not easy to install. I dread the thought of removing the microwave to attempt to fix the problem. I realize this is the preferred way to do this as one is encouraged to defuse the microwave to prevent a dangerous shock. Is there any way one can safely test and remove the switches without removing and opening up the Microwave? There are a few DIY videos where it appears the grill and control panel is removed, the switches replaced through the front without diffusing the capacitor. Is there a safe way of doing this?
Thank you Sir!
Thank you!
That 3 switch same or deferent??
Which switch would I replace if the microwave turns on when the door opens?
Ribsandwich9797 usually its the bottom one. Once you remove it, you will notice it may be slightly melted at the contacts, the wires may shpw signs of being hot, and the switch may no longer click like it should.
thank you!
ie mine is the DOOR Opener - so just realised not same prob...
where you buy the switches?
Hiep Nguyen : I buy the switches from Grainger, or you can also buy them from appliance parts distributors.
Thanks, very help full, my microwave no heat 4 days ago I check the fuse it is bad my fuse is 5KV 0.85A so I order it will come in next week.
I JUST BOUGHT 10 MICRO SWITCHES £ 3.50 FREE DELIVERY FROM CHINA TO UK VIA EBAY.
This video isnt very helpful when the camera is so far away and you cant see whats actually being done