What a great teacher for appliance repair trade! His video instruction is by far, better than any other UA-cam videos, book study, or crazy expensive courses that don’t give you enough details OR over complicate things that you rarely see out in the field. Absolutely golden 👌
This class will cover all microwave repair for free. With this class right here I diagnose and repair so many microwave. The appliance professor is shedding so much light. Get it while it’s still on UA-cam.
Great information. Just before seeing this video, I worked on my daughter's OTR Bosch Microwave. Blowing the breaker and finally blowing the internal 20A fuse. Not having watched this video or had the schematic, I tested the switches (ohmeter) and they were good. Relay working and transformer good. Checked the HV capacitor and it was dead-on for capacitance. HV diode tested fine. Hooked up power to the HV section and MW worked fine. Opening the door wouldn't blow the fuse. Finally, I noticed that the door wasn't closing as tightly as it should. Looking into the oven side of the latch assembly, the 2 ramps that the door latch hooks ride up on inside the oven and latch the door (and trip the switches) was worn. This caused the hooks to be maybe 1/8" lower than when new. The top hook was barely hitting the top switch when the door was "closed". The MW oven has the same black switch holder latch as shown in this video above. I replaced the assembly (with 3 new switches, only $2.00 more than w/o switches!), works fine now. I put a bit of lube on the black plastic to reduce wear on the new part. I looked at several other ovens much older than this one, and none of them had appreciable wear. Watch out if your oven has that black plastic part. Get a flashlight and look into the oven where the hooks enter for wear. This was only a 4-year-old Bosch MW oven that lists for $1150! Ridiculous.
Here i was ready to replace a microwave since my fuse was good and i thought only the magnetron would trip a breaker like that. I got rid of that switch, and i just saved $400 Thank you soo very much for this amazing useful knowledge
Old lady here getting prepped to replace door switch on GE jes 1657 and VERY MUCH appreciate your vid! GE says no repair for these "small appliances", prefer we throw them out, buy new. Anyway, thanks for putting this info out here.
WOW! Excellent video. This saved me SO MUCH time in troubleshooting my microwave. Excellent instructional technique. I was not looking forward to testing each switch with an ohmmeter. And the tidbit about the door sensing switch connecting directly to the board. . .priceless!
Thanks a lot for this excellent video lesson! 👍 The symptom of my Sharp Carousel microwave oven was that when door was open, both fan and turntable started to run. Light was also turned on. When door was closed, it worked just like normal. I checked my primary switch and found IT WAS STUCK IN CLOSE. Therefore, when I open the door, the computer is confused. The primary switch (which is CLOSE) says the doors is closed and the turntable and the fan and the light should be powered on; The secondary/sensing switch (which is OPEN) says the door is open and the light shall be turned on. The monitor switch (which is CLOSE) says the door is open and pls shut the heating elements off. This is exactly what I experienced! Repair was easy. I have two comments for the other watchers: (1) The concept BAD actually indicates two status: stuck in close, and stuck in open. This helped me understanding the mechanisms discussed in the video (2) Locations of the switches may be very different in different microwaves. Obtain a repair manual for your model.
If the primary switch was stuck closed, once you open the door the monitor switch should be closed, and thus it should have blown the fuse (unless the monitor switch was defective too but that's not what you reported).
Thank you. Your great teacher watched your video and learned how to read a schematic diagram a little better. I was able to replace the door switches in a microwave, understanding of the monitor switch, and how it works any being careful with high voltage in microwaves. Thank you
BRILLIANT! Bro' Rick, your methodical & step-by-step approach is perfect. Before we can understand what's going wrong, we need to understand how each link in the chain is designed to function - and why - when things are operating NORMALLY. Very few teachers take the time to work through all these details. Bravo! By the way, I would bet money that my presently fuse-blowing microwave is that brand you didn't want to mention. 😆
THANK YOU!!!! You're explanation of how the switches interact with each other, and that the house circuit breaker may trip, gave me the insight I needed to repair my microwave, along with a wiring diagram.
After watching this video, I learned not to mess around with the door switches because I hit 21:50 in the video. Lights come on, door opens and closes and the light comes on and off. I can press buttons on the control panel and it will start "cooking", the fans come on, but no heat. So thanks to this video, without needing a single multimeter, I learned my switches are fine. The stuff beyond this is above me as I don't want to mess with high voltage components nor do I want to mess with soldering, so I am taking this ol' microwave to get recycled. Thank you.
As a novice, your tutorials are in layman's terms. Thus l can understand your advanced teachings to apply it to my service applications. Thks. MJ in B'dos 😊
Great Video! My GE Microwave is tripping the breaker in my fuse box. Towards the end of the Video, you mentioned the relay could be the cause, and/or the mounting plate for the door switches being out of alignment could cause the switches to open in the incorrect order. Being the lazy troubleshooter, I would suppose if I check the relay for continuity after unplugging it from the board (meaning it is stuck in the closed position) or check if the mounting plate for the switches has come loose, I could pretty much tell what the issue is? I'll watch the Video one or two more times to know exactly where I get that feeling from.
Panasonic some years back had a series where the combo switch holder was mounted with two screws but on super thin metal that flexed when the door was shut leaving some micro switches not closing properly. Sometimes the oven would work fine and other times you had to tap or bang on the closed door to get the switches to close. Very exasperating. There's a workaround where you pop rivet the plastic combo switch holder to a study part of the oven frame so the switch holder can not flex or move as the door is closed. An added problem, which magnified the Panasonic flex was they used an overly stiff coil spring on the door latch/ hooks which placed a whole lot more pressure on the switch holder than was necessary when the door was closed.
I realize this is training but as a homeowner I completely messed up my whirlpool WMH53520CS-2 big time. Let me explain, door messaging open door close door, finally microwave wouldn't work reliably. So I bought 3 micro switches installed (and didn't take pictures of wiring positions or the orientation of each switch normally open or normally closed) after the installation the heavy duty fuse blows immediately. I just found you and your training am watching this switch training in particular.
I didn't even know if I plugged the wire connectors into the right position so have to check relay on the board first to see if it's burned closed right?
Switch synchronization was my problem because the plastic track that the two latches run in were worn with grooves in them so switch closing order was off and caused a short that blew yhe fuse.
@@kentanrem When you close the door, the monitor switch open, then the primary switch close. When you open the door it's the opposite: the primary switch open, then the monitor switch close.
Working on a BE microwave that has an extremely loud, and rather difficult to close door. Will try sliding the door switch bracket/harness. All door switches tested fine, fuse is fine, thermostats find but breaker tripped. No idea etc is wrong. Going to start testing all over with new found knowledge from this video and shopping for thermostats, learned about normally close/open. Quite a pain in the ass! The k God for UA-cam for ppl like me determined to fix it for pennies.
Have a KA unit and the door light doesn't come on when open, and also gives a 'door' error when trying to run when the door is closed. I figured a door switch was bad... except I replaced them all (only $6 each and already 10years old), and it's still doing the same thing!?! Any guesses? I have a parts diagram, but no electric schematic to follow, so a little difficult to figure for an amateur.
My folks have a newer microwave that blows the fuse if you open the door while it is operating. In other words, you have to cancel or pause it before you open the door or else...
I have a Samsung ME21H706MQS microwave that won’t power on anymore. But when I slam and push the door hard the clock will turn on and turn back off. What could be causing this a bad door switch or a bad fuse? Thanks
This video is so usefull I spent many hours placing n replacing the monitor switch...its only a shut-off or failsafe device...my microwave was blowing the main fuse...i replaced the monitoe switch but I was getting continuity on it with door closed and open...why was it doing that???
Hi Jose, I read up on that for my Siemens device, and it turns out that sometimes some metal holding brackets can be bent out of shape such that the door never actuates (opens) this switch --> poof goes another fuse!
GE JES1384SF - seems like an upper door (main switch) - lower switch clicks and toggles interior light, Upon when it should start relay clicks and starts counting down, finishes countdown, relay clicks again, beeps, etc. Upper switch feels "spongy" no click or mechanical stop. No turntable, no browner, fan, or tubes. Looked everywhere for a schematic. (Is that interior light on the main circuit for 0% power?) Makes no sense. Meanwhile locating T25 Torx (Button) Security driver... It did this a couple years ago and lifting up on door while nudging the start over and over it fixed itself. This time the interior stuff went off all at once at 48 sec to go.
Great video. I’m trying to troubleshoot my 5 yr old GE microwave that powers up, clock counts down, turntable turns, but doesn’t heat. Seems from your video that it’s high voltage problem (capacitor, magnetron). I’d appreciate it if you could confirm. I was hoping it was something simple like switches. Thank you.
I have a strange problem. One door switch seemed to be stuck in closed position (whether door was shut or open). According to the drawing on it, it is supposed to be open when the door is open, and closed when the door is shut. I dislodged it from the microwave, and when i tested freely, switching the button to simulate closed door, it worked as specified. I was gappy believing it just got unstuck Then i reinstalled it. But now it started functioning in reverse order (closed when the door is open, open when the door is shut). I cannot figure what explains this final situation.
I have replaced all 3 switches, now the Door opening is not tripping the power, but when I close the Door the Microwave is humming and heating the water cup (without starting). What could be the problem?
Gud day sir, my microwave issue is like this, after the cooking ends everything stops except the turntable and light still on.Need to unpplug it for it to stop. I'd like to know what seems to be the fault causing that. thanks a lot guy from the Phils( by the way it's a Sharp Carousel brand).
Sharp RE－S２０４ model. When the door is closed the oven is dead when i open it, I can see the display working. When i open it slightly so that the switch button at the top is not push down , I can set timer and start button working. I am Confuse.
OK...I fixed this problem in my GE Profile Microwave oven this way. There are three microswitches, one above the other. The two upper microswitches are wired to normally open and normally closed. The bottom one, which has that extra cam is not the one which usually fails. When the door is closed, they switch over. The problem is that if the door is not totally square to the front of the oven, or it twists, the switches have a chance to not activate consecutively and form a dead short which blows the breaker. I got sick of this problem and got a DPDT limit switch, cut a hole in the upper part of the grid over the removable plastic box for the wiring and mounted the switch in a way, that when the door is closed, the switch is activated. ONE SWITCH ACTIVATION CONTACT POINT, not TWO to throw the switch. That way the twist in the door is irrelevant. I then got male spade connectors and put them in the connectors for the NO and NC switch connectors and wired the outputs to the new switch NO and NC connections (4 points, total) with short lengths of wire. This switch breaks before make and that function is the secret to why it will reliably work. It works great. I used a limit switch from an old molding machine. A Square D switch or other type of 2p2t snap action switch could be used and bracketed into the front of the microwave neatly. The switches have to be rated at least 10 amps at 120VAC. If you do this, don't do it sloppy. Your wife will get pissed at you. This is an inherent design flaw in this microwave. The way I fixes retains the safety interlocks and eliminates the problem of door and hinge twist. You GE folks should take notes. Doing it cheap is not necessarily doing it OK....and yes, I am going to be smug about it.
All my switch are working fine but as soon as I closed the door the breaker goes off ? Could you told me more please ? It's a frigidaire Gallery about 4 years old. the schematics is the same as yours.
What brand / model is being shown? I ask as I like the way that bottom switches are activated by the same rotating piece, not by the door latch surfaces - which can cause problems when it wears out part of the holder on Frigidaire units.
Question? The price of microwaves is meager for most over-the-range models. The repair cost should be at most 50% of a new replacement. To drop a grease microwave, do the repairs, and reinstall it, Then retape exhaust stack. How do you repair them for a customer? I have been condemning them and walking away. Countertop units sure fix them.
Thanks for the videos. I think I have other issue on my GE Adventium Microwave Oven PSB924SF4SS. It makes humming sound when just to close the door. Heats up the food is fine. All door switches, fuses and thermostats are good. Would you tell me what cause the sound? Thank you!
So the monitor switch needs to be in the NO state while running, if the monitor switch becomes failed in a NC state it would cause the main fuse to blow? When the door is open the switch closes becoming NC and when the door is shut and ready to run it should be in a NO state?
The terms NO and NC refer to the state of the switch when it is NOT activated (when the button is NOT pushed down). They are inherent in the design of the switch. Pushing the button down doesn't change the switch from NO to NC or from NC to NO. It changes it from open to closed, or closed to open.
Great video!! My Samsung gets E-83 error & won't operate (display on, won't take keyboard input). If I unplug from the wall briefly, it will then work for awhile. It never stops in mid-cycle, but is either normal or E-83 error. Web search says e-83 indicates a door switch or control board failure. Based on your video, for switches seem ok (unit stops if door opens mid-cycle & can be restarted when door is closed) Is it time to just get a new microwave? Intermittent problems drive me nuts!!!!
Hi i have a Panasonic inverter 1200 watts i change the burnt bulb and still no light but the microwave is working perfectly !and stop when im opening the door! what it can be the main board is shut or i can replace a parts on the board itself ??? :) i need help!! thanks for your help!
It's crazy because this is the most informative video on the subject bar none. I just wish you had said which brand had a problem with loose switches. I have a Furrion and believe they have this problem often. I replaced the 3 door switches and fuse, now have a new problem. When plugging in the microwave it did power on but the turntable started turning and the light came on with the door closed. It does stop when the door is opened but after closing the door is starts turning again. This is happening without setting it to start for any length of time. In fact when I tried to start it with the light and turntable moving it won't. Somehow it must think it is already on. I tried unplugging and tripping the breaker but it did not solve the problem. I did check the fuses for continuity before and after replacing the switches and I'm thinking they are fine because the turntable does shut off when the door is opened. Any idea what might cause this?
@Charles that is a sign that the secondary door switch is not closing when the door is closed. Does not mean the switch itself is bad. If you determine the switch is closed when door is closed. Then is possible a relay on the board is stuck in closed position. I do feel it is the door switch not closing. You said you replaced the door switch. It is possible a normally closed switch was put in the wrong place
Awesome tutorial, Bro' Rick. I have a microwave that keeps blowing fuses. Is there a switch that causes that? It doesn't blow immediately, just after operation for awhile.
If door switch causes fuse to blow will be one of 2 things, blows immediately when plugged in or immediately when turns on. Sometimes when door is opened while still running. Remember other things like transformer and high voltage capacitor can blow a fuse too, Try to disconnect the 120v side of the transformer then running unit see if blows fuse, if not could be one of the HV components NOTE: ''''"if you are not sure how to test them have someone who does, the unit runs at 4,000 volts. and capacitor can store an electrical charge even if it is unplugged.""""
Thanks for teaching. My microwave magic chef happen the same thing. I switched transformer and capacitor from the one working still blowing the fuse when the transformer started.
Late reply: my 15yr old Siemens microwave had a bad monitor switch - turns out it was always closed, and the microwave was setup to blow it's fuse by creating a short when this switch didn't open when the door was closed. The 20ct switch was hard to obtain and cost $15, so I decided to open it and repair it by bending it back into shape.
Trying so hard to figure out my microwave issue. Fuse blew when opening the door. Not while running. Replaced the fuse. Blew again when popping open the door. Any idea?
Michrowave front panel is ok, timer is going down michroton is running heating is ok. but disc motor and cooling fan is not running, where is the problem?
So you explained everything except which switch is bad if the microwave fan and power works properly with the controls and shuts the power off at countdown, but when you open the door the fans run and lights come on.
Hello,it's great video. I have problem with my microwave,the light is always on ,the fan is on when the door is open and everything turns off when the door is closed.
Can someone tell me when the two relay switches in the control panel Energize. I assume the Big Relay energizes when you press one of the Cook buttons, the other relay, I have no idea. I have no schematic, and i can not locate one online...... Thanks.
The big relatyusually has 2 wires on it, that should be sometimes called Relay 2, and that send power to the high voltage transformer. The other relays control fans, lights, turntable etc....
That is a good tutorial-i have a problem, microwave keeps blowing the fuse and tripping the breaker...switches all test fine. If I change the fuse everything works great for a few minutes (i can open and close the door no problems) then after a few minutes if i open the door, the fuse blows again.(microwave is not cooking at the time) After watching this I'm thinking maybe the relay is sticking? What do you think? And thank you...
Microwave works but fuse blows monthly when you open the door. Doesn't matter whether you open the door to stop the cooking or placing food in with the microwave off. What is causing the fuse to blow?
I wish I knew. My turntable shuts off when the door is opened but immediately starts running and the light stays on when the door closes, even though I'm not pressing anything for it to run. Also if you try to start it you get nothing except a running turntable and the light on. Frustrating. I want to fix this thing as I installed a new switch holder , all new switches and a new fuse.
@@Charles-in3zt dang it. Mine ended up just being a door switch. I watched a few other videos until I found one on a model very similar to mine. Works fine now.
heres one for you,have a samsung oven that had a door latch broken off,i blew the fuse by bypasing the monitor microswitch,i replaced the latch and fuse,now when plugged in the tt turns slowly in reverse and the clock etc work but it wont start,i measured 3.5 ohms on the single pole top switch,is that ok and will it cause that?.Thanks
I replaced the 3 door switches and fuse, now have a new problem. When plugging in the microwave it did power on but the turntable started turning and the light came on with the door closed. It does stop when the door is opened but after closing the door is starts turning again. This is happening without setting it to start for any length of time. In fact when I tried to start it with the light and turntable moving it won't. Somehow it must think it is already on. I tried unplugging and tripping the breaker but it did not solve the problem. I did check the fuses for continuity before and after replacing the switches and I'm thinking they are fine because the turntable does shut off when the door is opened. Anyone know what might cause this?
Sounds similar to the secondary switch is thinking it's open when the door is actually closed. I'd double check you didn't mis-connect the wires to one of the switch.
Absolutely an excellent training video. Very well done.
What a great teacher for appliance repair trade! His video instruction is by far, better than any other UA-cam videos, book study, or crazy expensive courses that don’t give you enough details OR over complicate things that you rarely see out in the field. Absolutely golden 👌
Thank you
i watched a different video on how to check the switches but this dude TEACHES and i love this teaching style
@@felipebaez3512 thank you
This class will cover all microwave repair for free. With this class right here I diagnose and repair so many microwave. The appliance professor is shedding so much light. Get it while it’s still on UA-cam.
Great information. Just before seeing this video, I worked on my daughter's OTR Bosch Microwave. Blowing the breaker and finally blowing the internal 20A fuse. Not having watched this video or had the schematic, I tested the switches (ohmeter) and they were good. Relay working and transformer good. Checked the HV capacitor and it was dead-on for capacitance. HV diode tested fine. Hooked up power to the HV section and MW worked fine. Opening the door wouldn't blow the fuse. Finally, I noticed that the door wasn't closing as tightly as it should. Looking into the oven side of the latch assembly, the 2 ramps that the door latch hooks ride up on inside the oven and latch the door (and trip the switches) was worn. This caused the hooks to be maybe 1/8" lower than when new. The top hook was barely hitting the top switch when the door was "closed". The MW oven has the same black switch holder latch as shown in this video above. I replaced the assembly (with 3 new switches, only $2.00 more than w/o switches!), works fine now. I put a bit of lube on the black plastic to reduce wear on the new part. I looked at several other ovens much older than this one, and none of them had appreciable wear. Watch out if your oven has that black plastic part. Get a flashlight and look into the oven where the hooks enter for wear. This was only a 4-year-old Bosch MW oven that lists for $1150! Ridiculous.
Here i was ready to replace a microwave since my fuse was good and i thought only the magnetron would trip a breaker like that.
I got rid of that switch, and i just saved $400
Thank you soo very much for this amazing useful knowledge
It's exciting to come to school every day if your instructor teach like this.
Old lady here getting prepped to replace door switch on GE jes 1657 and VERY MUCH appreciate your vid! GE says no repair for these "small appliances", prefer we throw them out, buy new. Anyway, thanks for putting this info out here.
WOW! Excellent video. This saved me SO MUCH time in troubleshooting my microwave. Excellent instructional technique. I was not looking forward to testing each switch with an ohmmeter. And the tidbit about the door sensing switch connecting directly to the board. . .priceless!
Thanks a lot for this excellent video lesson! 👍 The symptom of my Sharp Carousel microwave oven was that when door was open, both fan and turntable started to run. Light was also turned on. When door was closed, it worked just like normal.
I checked my primary switch and found IT WAS STUCK IN CLOSE. Therefore, when I open the door, the computer is confused. The primary switch (which is CLOSE) says the doors is closed and the turntable and the fan and the light should be powered on; The secondary/sensing switch (which is OPEN) says the door is open and the light shall be turned on. The monitor switch (which is CLOSE) says the door is open and pls shut the heating elements off. This is exactly what I experienced! Repair was easy.
I have two comments for the other watchers: (1) The concept BAD actually indicates two status: stuck in close, and stuck in open. This helped me understanding the mechanisms discussed in the video (2) Locations of the switches may be very different in different microwaves. Obtain a repair manual for your model.
Where do I find repair manuals?
If the primary switch was stuck closed, once you open the door the monitor switch should be closed, and thus it should have blown the fuse (unless the monitor switch was defective too but that's not what you reported).
Thank you. Your great teacher watched your video and learned how to read a schematic diagram a little better. I was able to replace the door switches in a microwave, understanding of the monitor switch, and how it works any being careful with high voltage in microwaves. Thank you
BRILLIANT! Bro' Rick, your methodical & step-by-step approach is perfect. Before we can understand what's going wrong, we need to understand how each link in the chain is designed to function - and why - when things are operating NORMALLY. Very few teachers take the time to work through all these details. Bravo! By the way, I would bet money that my presently fuse-blowing microwave is that brand you didn't want to mention. 😆
Thanks for your comment, it is appreciated
THANK YOU!!!! You're explanation of how the switches interact with each other, and that the house circuit breaker may trip, gave me the insight I needed to repair my microwave, along with a wiring diagram.
After watching this video, I learned not to mess around with the door switches because I hit 21:50 in the video. Lights come on, door opens and closes and the light comes on and off. I can press buttons on the control panel and it will start "cooking", the fans come on, but no heat. So thanks to this video, without needing a single multimeter, I learned my switches are fine.
The stuff beyond this is above me as I don't want to mess with high voltage components nor do I want to mess with soldering, so I am taking this ol' microwave to get recycled. Thank you.
Thanks for making this presentation and posting it. I was able to repair my Emerson MV8108P with your help. Thanks again.
Great tuition. Very nice , easy & perfect way to explain. I loved it. I would love to see more videos for microwave & other electronics appliances.
In our Members section of TMM Academics I just uploaded 3 videos on how microwave control boards work
As a novice, your tutorials are in layman's terms. Thus l can understand your advanced teachings to apply it to my service applications. Thks. MJ in B'dos 😊
Awesome. My mother's GE counts down, light comes on but no high voltage or turntable. Now I know it's the primary door switch.
Great diagnostic lesson.
Great Video! My GE Microwave is tripping the breaker in my fuse box. Towards the end of the Video, you mentioned the relay could be the cause, and/or the mounting plate for the door switches being out of alignment could cause the switches to open in the incorrect order. Being the lazy troubleshooter, I would suppose if I check the relay for continuity after unplugging it from the board (meaning it is stuck in the closed position) or check if the mounting plate for the switches has come loose, I could pretty much tell what the issue is? I'll watch the Video one or two more times to know exactly where I get that feeling from.
Very helpful coverage and demonstrations of this topic. Will save this for future reference when our Panasonic blows another fuse.
Panasonic some years back had a series where the combo switch holder was mounted with two screws but on super thin metal that flexed when the door was shut leaving some micro switches not closing properly. Sometimes the oven would work fine and other times you had to tap or bang on the closed door to get the switches to close. Very exasperating. There's a workaround where you pop rivet the plastic combo switch holder to a study part of the oven frame so the switch holder can not flex or move as the door is closed. An added problem, which magnified the Panasonic flex was they used an overly stiff coil spring on the door latch/ hooks which placed a whole lot more pressure on the switch holder than was necessary when the door was closed.
I realize this is training but as a homeowner I completely messed up my whirlpool WMH53520CS-2 big time. Let me explain, door messaging open door close door, finally microwave wouldn't work reliably. So I bought 3 micro switches installed (and didn't take pictures of wiring positions or the orientation of each switch normally open or normally closed) after the installation the heavy duty fuse blows immediately.
I just found you and your training am watching this switch training in particular.
I didn't even know if I plugged the wire connectors into the right position so have to check relay on the board first to see if it's burned closed right?
Switch synchronization was my problem because the plastic track that the two latches run in were worn with grooves in them so switch closing order was off and caused a short that blew yhe fuse.
So what is the correct order?
@@kentanrem When you close the door, the monitor switch open, then the primary switch close. When you open the door it's the opposite: the primary switch open, then the monitor switch close.
Working on a BE microwave that has an extremely loud, and rather difficult to close door. Will try sliding the door switch bracket/harness.
All door switches tested fine, fuse is fine, thermostats find but breaker tripped. No idea etc is wrong. Going to start testing all over with new found knowledge from this video and shopping for thermostats, learned about normally close/open. Quite a pain in the ass! The k God for UA-cam for ppl like me determined to fix it for pennies.
Have a KA unit and the door light doesn't come on when open, and also gives a 'door' error when trying to run when the door is closed. I figured a door switch was bad... except I replaced them all (only $6 each and already 10years old), and it's still doing the same thing!?! Any guesses? I have a parts diagram, but no electric schematic to follow, so a little difficult to figure for an amateur.
I have the same problem, when I open the door the main fuse blow. My question is which switch is the bad one, topmiddle or bottom one
Thank for uploading the video. I found the information very useful.
My folks have a newer microwave that blows the fuse if you open the door while it is operating. In other words, you have to cancel or pause it before you open the door or else...
I spoke too soon 🤐
I have a Samsung ME21H706MQS microwave that won’t power on anymore. But when I slam and push the door hard the clock will turn on and turn back off. What could be causing this a bad door switch or a bad fuse? Thanks
This is why you should NEVER slam or allow the door to be slammed on a microwave.
This teacher is wicked smaaaaat.
ALWAYS Wear GLOVES And NO JEWLERY!!! YOU Can't get out of the high voltage area if a watch or ring is caught on something
Curiosity is killing me.
What's the un-named brand he mentioned a few times?
Well taught lesson! Now to teach people to stop opening the door when the oven is running and no more risk of monitor switch issues. LOL🤣🤣🤣
This video is so usefull I spent many hours placing n replacing the monitor switch...its only a shut-off or failsafe device...my microwave was blowing the main fuse...i replaced the monitoe switch but I was getting continuity on it with door closed and open...why was it doing that???
Hi Jose, I read up on that for my Siemens device, and it turns out that sometimes some metal holding brackets can be bent out of shape such that the door never actuates (opens) this switch --> poof goes another fuse!
Thank you for your video. Question: How do those three switches work, top SW (NO, or NC), Mid SW (NO, or NC), and bottom SW (NO or NC)?
Upper and lower normally open.
Middle normally closed.
(That means the middle will open when the microwave is in use).
GE JES1384SF - seems like an upper door (main switch) - lower switch clicks and toggles interior light, Upon when it should start relay clicks and starts counting down, finishes countdown, relay clicks again, beeps, etc. Upper switch feels "spongy" no click or mechanical stop. No turntable, no browner, fan, or tubes. Looked everywhere for a schematic. (Is that interior light on the main circuit for 0% power?) Makes no sense. Meanwhile locating T25 Torx (Button) Security driver...
It did this a couple years ago and lifting up on door while nudging the start over and over it fixed itself. This time the interior stuff went off all at once at 48 sec to go.
Great video. I’m trying to troubleshoot my 5 yr old GE microwave that powers up, clock counts down, turntable turns, but doesn’t heat. Seems from your video that it’s high voltage problem (capacitor, magnetron). I’d appreciate it if you could confirm. I was hoping it was something simple like switches. Thank you.
I have a strange problem. One door switch seemed to be stuck in closed position (whether door was shut or open). According to the drawing on it, it is supposed to be open when the door is open, and closed when the door is shut.
I dislodged it from the microwave, and when i tested freely, switching the button to simulate closed door, it worked as specified. I was gappy believing it just got unstuck
Then i reinstalled it. But now it started functioning in reverse order (closed when the door is open, open when the door is shut). I cannot figure what explains this final situation.
I have replaced all 3 switches, now the Door opening is not tripping the power, but when I close the Door the Microwave is humming and heating the water cup (without starting). What could be the problem?
Gud day sir, my microwave issue is like this, after the cooking ends everything stops except the turntable and light still on.Need to unpplug it for it to stop. I'd like to know what seems to be the fault causing that. thanks a lot guy from the Phils( by the way it's a Sharp Carousel brand).
Sharp RE－S２０４ model. When the door is closed the oven is dead when i open it, I can see the display working. When i open it slightly so that the switch button at the top is not push down , I can set timer and start button working. I am Confuse.
Skip to 20 min mark for quick test info.
Thanks for your detailed explanation
I was be able to fix mine
Thank you for the tutorial.
OK...I fixed this problem in my GE Profile Microwave oven this way. There are three microswitches, one above the other. The two upper microswitches are wired to normally open and normally closed. The bottom one, which has that extra cam is not the one which usually fails. When the door is closed, they switch over. The problem is that if the door is not totally square to the front of the oven, or it twists, the switches have a chance to not activate consecutively and form a dead short which blows the breaker.
I got sick of this problem and got a DPDT limit switch, cut a hole in the upper part of the grid over the removable plastic box for the wiring and mounted the switch in a way, that when the door is closed, the switch is activated. ONE SWITCH ACTIVATION CONTACT POINT, not TWO to throw the switch. That way the twist in the door is irrelevant. I then got male spade connectors and put them in the connectors for the NO and NC switch connectors and wired the outputs to the new switch NO and NC connections (4 points, total) with short lengths of wire. This switch breaks before make and that function is the secret to why it will reliably work.
It works great. I used a limit switch from an old molding machine. A Square D switch or other type of 2p2t snap action switch could be used and bracketed into the front of the microwave neatly. The switches have to be rated at least 10 amps at 120VAC. If you do this, don't do it sloppy. Your wife will get pissed at you.
This is an inherent design flaw in this microwave. The way I fixes retains the safety interlocks and eliminates the problem of door and hinge twist.
You GE folks should take notes. Doing it cheap is not necessarily doing it OK....and yes, I am going to be smug about it.
All my switch are working fine but as soon as I closed the door the breaker goes off ? Could you told me more please ? It's a frigidaire Gallery about 4 years old. the schematics is the same as yours.
Sounds like the monitor switch is stuck closed and doesn't open when the door is closed.
@@Charles-in3zt or stucked relay.
Is Frigidaire microwave you didn't wanna say. I have a customer's microwave tripping the breaker
I OPEN THE DOOR AND THE FUSE BLOWS OUT, IS THE DOOR SWITCH THE PROBLEM ?
What brand / model is being shown? I ask as I like the way that bottom switches are activated by the same rotating piece, not by the door latch surfaces - which can cause problems when it wears out part of the holder on Frigidaire units.
That is a Kenmore"Frigidaire Made" Microwave
Question? The price of microwaves is meager for most over-the-range models. The repair cost should be at most 50% of a new replacement. To drop a grease microwave, do the repairs, and reinstall it, Then retape exhaust stack. How do you repair them for a customer? I have been condemning them and walking away.
Countertop units sure fix them.
Thanks for the videos. I think I have other issue on my GE Adventium Microwave Oven PSB924SF4SS. It makes humming sound when just to close the door. Heats up the food is fine. All door switches, fuses and thermostats are good. Would you tell me what cause the sound? Thank you!
So the monitor switch needs to be in the NO state while running, if the monitor switch becomes failed in a NC state it would cause the main fuse to blow? When the door is open the switch closes becoming NC and when the door is shut and ready to run it should be in a NO state?
The terms NO and NC refer to the state of the switch when it is NOT activated (when the button is NOT pushed down). They are inherent in the design of the switch. Pushing the button down doesn't change the switch from NO to NC or from NC to NO. It changes it from open to closed, or closed to open.
Great video!! My Samsung gets E-83 error & won't operate (display on, won't take keyboard input). If I unplug from the wall briefly, it will then work for awhile. It never stops in mid-cycle, but is either normal or E-83 error.
Web search says e-83 indicates a door switch or control board failure. Based on your video, for switches seem ok (unit stops if door opens mid-cycle & can be restarted when door is closed)
Is it time to just get a new microwave? Intermittent problems drive me nuts!!!!
Hi i have a Panasonic inverter 1200 watts i change the burnt bulb and still no light but the microwave is working perfectly !and stop when im opening the door! what it can be the main board is shut or i can replace a parts on the board itself ??? :) i need help!! thanks for your help!
Hello, is the door switch on the board? Fan is running when door is closed. Thanks!
I find it funny people dislike videos, please if you think it is not a good video please comment and share so they can be improved.
It's probably bots you guys are doing great Ric...💪
It's crazy because this is the most informative video on the subject bar none. I just wish you had said which brand had a problem with loose switches. I have a Furrion and believe they have this problem often. I replaced the 3 door switches and fuse, now have a new problem. When plugging in the microwave it did power on but the turntable started turning and the light came on with the door closed. It does stop when the door is opened but after closing the door is starts turning again. This is happening without setting it to start for any length of time. In fact when I tried to start it with the light and turntable moving it won't. Somehow it must think it is already on. I tried unplugging and tripping the breaker but it did not solve the problem. I did check the fuses for continuity before and after replacing the switches and I'm thinking they are fine because the turntable does shut off when the door is opened. Any idea what might cause this?
@Charles that is a sign that the secondary door switch is not closing when the door is closed. Does not mean the switch itself is bad. If you determine the switch is closed when door is closed. Then is possible a relay on the board is stuck in closed position. I do feel it is the door switch not closing. You said you replaced the door switch. It is possible a normally closed switch was put in the wrong place
Also the frigidaire microwaves had the loose switch problem
Awesome tutorial, Bro' Rick. I have a microwave that keeps blowing fuses. Is there a switch that causes that? It doesn't blow immediately, just after operation for awhile.
If door switch causes fuse to blow will be one of 2 things, blows immediately when plugged in or immediately when turns on. Sometimes when door is opened while still running. Remember other things like transformer and high voltage capacitor can blow a fuse too,
Try to disconnect the 120v side of the transformer then running unit see if blows fuse, if not could be one of the HV components NOTE: ''''"if you are not sure how to test them have someone who does, the unit runs at 4,000 volts. and capacitor can store an electrical charge even if it is unplugged.""""
Thanks for teaching. My microwave magic chef happen the same thing. I switched transformer and capacitor from the one working still blowing the fuse when the transformer started.
Late reply: my 15yr old Siemens microwave had a bad monitor switch - turns out it was always closed, and the microwave was setup to blow it's fuse by creating a short when this switch didn't open when the door was closed.
The 20ct switch was hard to obtain and cost $15, so I decided to open it and repair it by bending it back into shape.
Trying so hard to figure out my microwave issue. Fuse blew when opening the door. Not while running. Replaced the fuse. Blew again when popping open the door. Any idea?
check all switches.
Michrowave front panel is ok, timer is going down michroton is running heating is ok. but disc motor and cooling fan is not running, where is the problem?
Hi bro, please can you advice me. On my keypad the start and stop only doesn't work.. What should I look at to sort the issue?
So you explained everything except which switch is bad if the microwave fan and power works properly with the controls and shuts the power off at countdown, but when you open the door the fans run and lights come on.
Great video. Thank you.
Very good teacher
What about the keyboard shorted out. Tks
How to quickly check the transformer. Thanks I forgot that one.
That information is in the video starting at 22:35
Hello,it's great video.
I have problem with my microwave,the light is always on ,the fan is on when the door is open and everything turns off when the door is closed.
door sensing switch? stucked.
Can someone tell me when the two relay switches in the control panel Energize. I assume the Big Relay energizes when you press one of the Cook buttons, the other relay, I have no idea. I have no schematic, and i can not locate one online...... Thanks.
The big relatyusually has 2 wires on it, that should be sometimes called Relay 2, and that send power to the high voltage transformer. The other relays control fans, lights, turntable etc....
@@appliancetraining5600 Thank you...
I have one that the fan and turntable & light come on when the door is opened.
Man I need to come to one of your classes Master Ricky. Where did you find this guy brother B ?😀🙌🏼🤯👏🏼🙏🏽
Thanks, for the props.
my microwave door is fucked up .... can i just connect them directly
That is a good tutorial-i have a problem, microwave keeps blowing the fuse and tripping the breaker...switches all test fine. If I change the fuse everything works great for a few minutes (i can open and close the door no problems) then after a few minutes if i open the door, the fuse blows again.(microwave is not cooking at the time)
After watching this I'm thinking maybe the relay is sticking? What do you think?
And thank you...
Very informative vid, thanks man!
Great video 👍
Microwave works but fuse blows monthly when you open the door. Doesn't matter whether you open the door to stop the cooking or placing food in with the microwave off. What is causing the fuse to blow?
I would guess your monitor fuse is bad and is not opening when the door is closed.
Thank you!
What if you test all four switches and they all change state but the turntable and fan still turn on when the door opens?
I wish I knew. My turntable shuts off when the door is opened but immediately starts running and the light stays on when the door closes, even though I'm not pressing anything for it to run. Also if you try to start it you get nothing except a running turntable and the light on. Frustrating. I want to fix this thing as I installed a new switch holder , all new switches and a new fuse.
@@Charles-in3zt dang it. Mine ended up just being a door switch. I watched a few other videos until I found one on a model very similar to mine. Works fine now.
I have a Frigidaire that blow my fuse and monitor switch and same time
My GE ze6170 stopped working, said close door, the clock was working, the lights came on.
Microwave GE ZE 2160 Model
🎉
Nice
Then it’s a failsafe.
heres one for you,have a samsung oven that had a door latch broken off,i blew the fuse by bypasing the monitor microswitch,i replaced the latch and fuse,now when plugged in the tt turns slowly in reverse and the clock etc work but it wont start,i measured 3.5 ohms on the single pole top switch,is that ok and will it cause that?.Thanks
I replaced the 3 door switches and fuse, now have a new problem. When plugging in the microwave it did power on but the turntable started turning and the light came on with the door closed. It does stop when the door is opened but after closing the door is starts turning again. This is happening without setting it to start for any length of time. In fact when I tried to start it with the light and turntable moving it won't. Somehow it must think it is already on. I tried unplugging and tripping the breaker but it did not solve the problem. I did check the fuses for continuity before and after replacing the switches and I'm thinking they are fine because the turntable does shut off when the door is opened. Anyone know what might cause this?
Sounds similar to the secondary switch is thinking it's open when the door is actually closed. I'd double check you didn't mis-connect the wires to one of the switch.
Nice