In my case, it was due to a bad micro-switch. There typically are three micro-switches that are mechanically controlled by the oven door. One is called the PRIMARY. Another is called the SECONDARY. And the last is called the MONITOR switch. The primary switch allows the AC power to reach the high voltage transformer, along with reaching the oven lamp, the fan motor, and the turn-table motor. The monitor switch is a safety switch that shorts out any AC power from reaching the locations just mentioned, but does so primarily to prevent microwaves being active when the door is open. So when the PRIMARY switch is open, the safety MONITOR switch is closed, and vice versa. In my case, the PRIMARY switch was occasionally getting stuck in the closed position when I opened the door. That of course sent 120 VAC to the MONITOR switch, and boom, the fuse blew due to the sudden extremely high AC current. And so the safety MONITOR switch did exactly what it was supposed to do. Anyhow, once the defective primary switch was replaced, all was well again.
@@FuseHVACRElectricalPlumbing Thanks bro. I love fixing things. The oven was manufactured back in June of 2004. It was a stainless steel oven that was on sale for just over $40 due to it being a show piece. In truth though, it was defective. One half of the key keyboard keys were not working. So I took it apart and cleaned the keyboard flex cable contacts and the main control board keyboard connector, and boom, all was well. Anyhow, it still looks today as new as the day I bought it long ago.
@@FuseHVACRElectricalPlumbing I also repaired my air conditioner. It is over 18 years old, and the motor was squealing big time. But I fixed that by using a method to reapply oil to the felt pads that hold on to oil supply to oil the brass bearings. I also repainted the air conditioner, and so it now looks a new as the day I purchased it.
My microwave blown fuse twice. First time it blew i replaced it then it blew again could it be the microswitch? I noticed one of the three microswitch is stuck but im not sure if its the problem. I checked it for continuity and there is continuity.
I repair for a living. Units mounted above the cooking range. I tell them to get a new microwave due to the costs of dropping units down. Troubleshooting running and buying parts, installing parts, and remounting the microwave. It is cheaper and better to replace the unit due to the costs involved. If it is a high-end microwave, I will work on those because the units are expensive. The rule is. Will repair be 50% of the cost of a new microwave? If so, replace the unit. If my personal microwave breaks down. Yes, I repair it.
This was helpful, my fuse keep blowing in less than 4 seconds, and the culprit was the capacitor. I changed all microswitch and door latch yet the problem didnt go away. When i physically checked the capacitor i noticed it was dripping oil and when i checked for continuity it beeped. Thanks again for saving me some money.
hey bro much thanks you help me out alot im really glad there are still people like out there willing to help others and teach others what you have learned over the years thanks alot again for the explanation keep up the good work much love from the caribbean......
Thanks for posting this informative video. I was able to diagnose the capacitor as the device that was blowing the fuse. Xfmr in circuit alone was good, but when I hooked the capacitor back into the circuit (Magnetron left un-wired), the fuse blew.
I liked what @Fuse HVAC & Appliance Repair explained in his video - the process of elimination. Since my one year old GE microwave started blowing fuse, I paid attention to his video without looking for grammatical mistakes or the like. It is a great favor he did for me by providing step by step procedure to troubleshoot. He gave the ideas, now I use my judgment and find out the sequence of operation to execute, i.e., start from the end of his video and march backward. Here is what the sequence of steps I am planning to execute: 1) Unplug the power to microwave, 2) remove the cover, 3) use insulated shoes and wear glove to insulate, 4) discharge the Capacitor with a pliers the way he has shown @12:35, then 5) disconnect the Magnetron, 6) disconnect the diode, 7) disconnect the Capacitor. 8) disconnect the main Transformer (on the HVAC side). At this point, I am thinking to check whether the fuse is blowing or not. 9) If not blowing, connect the main Transformer and check. 10) If fuse is not blowing, I will connect the Capacitor and Diode and check whether the fuse is blowing or not. 11) If not blowing, unplug and discharge the Capacitor and connect the Magnetron. Then plug in the power supply to microwave and check whether the fuse is blowing. 12) If not blowing, connect the Magnetron and check whether the fuse is blowing. Viewer @ahaulss93 commented that before the cook time is completed, if the microwave door is pulled open, it might trip the breaker/blow the fuse. I am thinking to explore this possibility because, my GE Over the Range (OTR) microwave, which is bit hard to reach for some, its door was pulled open applying force at an angel while still it was running. Since that day fuse blowing started. I request @Fuse HVAC & Appliance Repair or experts in this field to give some feedback on the sequence of execution of troubleshooting steps listed as above. Thanks to @Fuse HVAC & Appliance Repair for sharing his ideas and making the video for us to view and learn. Also I thank to other viewers who have given useful comments.
@@shawnp8878 I tested the door switches by actuating with a narrow screw driver tip; exercised few times. They came out the way should they should be. I tested two Thermal cutoffs. One I could not take it out, so tested that in place. I removed the thermal cut off switch near the Magnetron and tested; found to be working properly. Then put it back and placed it securely and tightened the screw to make sure to have good contact. At the front top right when you face the microwave, there is a fuse. I replaced the fuse, which was blown in the first place to start trouble shooting. There are two or three screws there. Also there is a green ground wire. One of the screws passes through the ring shaped tip of the ground wire. When I tightened the screws, in the first instance it looked normal. However, something bothered me. When I looked closely, I found that the metal retainer clip was not oriented properly, which was leaving a very small air gap below the ground wire terminal ring. Had I not noticed that it would have caused blowing the fuse again, I believe. I positioned the retainer clip and the ground wire correctly such that noting was restricting the clip to firmly seat the ground wire when the screw is tightened. I put the cover and all screws making sure the components are secured well inside the outer cover plate. I plugged in the power chord to the wall; set the clock; tested the lights and the fan. Everything worked. Then put a cup of tap water inside. Closed the door. Set for 30 seconds. The Magnetron sound was smooth. Light inside the microwave turned on as usual and the microwave turned off after the the expiration of the 30 seconds of warming the cup of water. The water was pretty hot as the power level was 10 (default). I got away without replacing any part, except for the fuse which was blowing frequently prior to this repair session. I could not find any fault during testing. That is why I had to explain in a lengthy way so that you may speculate how it got fixed without replacing any part. I would think, some of the connections were loose and the the user yanked opened the door, which might have caused the door switch to get stuck. That might have triggered high current flow/high voltage thereby causing the loose connections to act out and create unsafe current flow situation. Once the door switches were exercised and the thermal cutoff switch and the grounding wire near the fuse were secured properly to have good contact, everything turned out to be safe for the microwave operation. Thanks for reading so far.
Good overall video. I have a convenction microwave and here in Thailand they are very expensive so i always have to repair it. Transformer smoked up. New one fitted, hv fuse blown. I will continue and get this fixed. Probably capacitor...your sequence of checking is what i use too. I try not to kill nyself just yet too and discharge cap.
Thank you for the video, I understood most of the explanation. I replaced the fuse as it was blown. Power back up, clock works. When I press 30 sec and Start, the unit makes a funny sound and go black - another blown fuse. Based on your video, do I still need to check the Relay, and Door Switches? How do I discharge the capacitor safely as your video didn't show what you clearly.
Thank you, now I know my problem is in the low voltage side. No clue how to diagnose what’s going on, but one step closer at figuring it out… hopefully
Thx for this helpful video. I have an LG2031ST and the MGT thermostat keeps blowing yet the door switches are fine. Any suggestions as likely reason. All other fuses test fine.
Thank you sir for the great information and patiently explaining it. Now, I can firmly say that I understand the core components of the microwave. I am trying to fix mine now. I suspect it is either the diode or magnetron. Your explanation helps with the entire troubleshooting and breaks it down nicely. Thank you so much!!
Hello, I found that when the one wire coming from the monitor switch to the transformer is connected it blows the fuse after I start the microwave. Now when I disconnect the one wire from the transformer the microwave runs without blowing the fuse. I have replace the monitor switch several times and have even tested the monitor switch and all reads good. What could the problem be?
Great video, thanks. I have a GE microwave (jvm3160df2ww) and it is similar to the one you show. It blew the main 20A fuse on the noise filter board when I went to open the door with it running. I replaced the fuse and after using microwave for about a week it blew the fuse again immediately on startup. I noticed the lower left hand side door hinge support could move and allow the door to mis-align slightly. Can this misalignment (which is easy to fix) cause the 20A fuse to blow or is it likely to be something else? A few years ago I had a problem with a stuck relay that caused the microwave to start when you closed the door if there was cook time remaining on the timer, but I tapped the relay and have not seen that problem since. That problem did not blow any fuse.
The microwave would trip the breaker in the panel when someone opened the microwave while it was running. I replaced the two black switches on the handle not the grey one on the bottom it ran but would blow the low voltage fuse (20A/250V) everytime we start the microwave. I will check the low voltage side like you explained but is this more of a capacitor or diode problem. Or is it just as likely to blow the fuse on startup if it's the transformer or magnetron? Thank you in advance.
@@charlesabbott9605 This may be late but lifting the door will keep the fuse from blowing until you can get it repaired. When the door sags the monitor circuit connected to the middle switch is the first to short out. If you lift the door when opening it that will be that last switch to operate. The top and bottom switches need to be off before the monitor circuit shorts the fuse. it's a safety feature to keep the microwave from operating when the door is opened with a faulty microswitch at the top or bottom.
Sir salamat sa npakalaking tulong na inpormasyon at naway marami pa kyong matulungan na mga tecnician na kagaya ko. May tanung sana ako sir tungkol sa microwave na inaayos namin, ang problma ay na blow fuse sya kapag i ON namin sya. Sa pagsaksak hnd masusunog ang fuse pero pag i start mo na sya yun na blow fuse na kaagad. Salamat sir🙂
Sir nagkakaroon ka ng high current sa secondary ng high voltage transformer kaya nag blown ang fuse maaring kailangan palitan ang transformer i check mo ang winding insulation kung may open na magnet wire
The secondary high voltage transformer I measured mine to be 156 ohms is it good or bad but I think it still fine it's closer to 200 even though I'm not sure of the range
good video, want to replace my diode and fuse but although l can find the diode l can not find the fuse, can you help me locate it. my microwave is not heating but everything else is okay.
Hello,I have a GE Microwave Model JVM1340BW02 keeps blowing mail fuse when trying to cook,all switches have continuity and work correctly,the lights work fans run but cannot cook and idea what it could be,loud hummmming!!! noise before fuse blows when trying to cook.Any Idea what the loud hummming is before line fuse blows??PLEASE HELP IF POSSIBLE.I have capacitor out and discharged.Any help appreciated.
I followed the tips for my Zanussi microwave and concluded that my diode was faulty. Just ordered a new one and will updat my comment if the issue is resolved. Thanks!
So ,let me understand , you did replace one and then another things untill you get it to work? Meaning you actually replace all the main things ??? Don't get me wrong but maybe I understood wrong but seems to me that you were guessing????
I can hear my magnetron coming on but then it blows fuse. I put a new fuse and turn on microwave and I can hear magnetron come on and fuse blows. I also changed micro switches but no luck. I can’t figure it out. Please help
Physically & multimeter test ,my oven shows all ok display,transformer,diode ,capacitor,magnetron not any short or open circuit but when start button is pressed home mcb is down !!! What may be problem ? Please guide me !!
@1:48 this is not a FUSE. it is a thermostat switch which opens the contact when temp raises about the predefined limit. And it comes to a normal state when temp. comes down. It is
По моему опыту что во всяких фэнси Вайкингах, что в сто-долларовых микроволновках проблемы всегда одни и те же - свитчи) или бывало на коннекторе, который к контрол-борду идет, проводки уставать начинают
My microwave heats fine, but when it is turned off and I close the door the microwave turns on by itself. The lights stay off, the turntable doesn’t move, the fan remains off but I hear a buzzing sound and a glass of water heats up quickly. The microwave works normally otherwise with lights and turntable and fan operating fine. Is this a stuck relay?
Hi. I have the same microwave . The bottoms on the touchpad doesn’t work (some time occasionally couple buttoms work and microwave work really good ) . Some time I have a message - sensor Error . What I have to replace ? Thanks
Hello, my problem was when I plugged the microwave in, it caused a spark in the causing the houselights to go off. When all is turned back on, I tried to plug the microwave in again but it wont start. Could this be a blown fuse? And if so, what can I do to fix it?😊
If your breaker keeps going off on the start of microwave and you cook lots of oily curries as Nepalese and Indians do, try this first! 1) Unplug microwave and plug it back. 2) 1 did not work, get an extension cord to hook it up to a different power outlet and connect the microwave. if(1 && 2) does not work => you are not lucky as me!! ;)
My countertop GE microwave runs for less than a minute and then goes dark--timer continues to countdown but nothing else. After a few minutes of cooling down, the light flickers and then the unit comes back on. It cycles like this non stop. I have door switches coming. Can I test each of the thermostats by using a jump wire to take them out of the system one at a time? They are fine when ten tested cold, but my problem is intermittent. Thanks for any help.
My GE microwave has a bad monitor switch I tried replacing it with one off amazon (szm-v16-62) and it worked fine until the door is opened before the time runs out. This caused the monitor switch to get stuck closed(contacts weld together). Do you think that my microwave has other issues or should i try to replace the monitor switch again? Thank you for your help.
SIR, I HAVE GE TABLE TOP MICROWAVE AND IT IS COMPLETE DEAD. I HAVE CHECKED ALL PARTS WITH MULTI METER,ITS KEEPING ON CONTINUOUS MODE, ITS OK, OPEN MANATRON, ITS OK, DOOR SWITCH ITS OK, RELAY, ITS OK. POWER SUPPLY DOES NOT FLOW THOUGH ITS OK. PLEASE GIDE TO RESOLVE THE PROBLEM. THANKS.
My microwave does not heat and blows fuse I’m pretty sure I’ve tested the magnetron , capacitor, thermal protectors, diode and the transformer all seems to test fine but still blows fuse please help
My microwave is working but heating not well. Maybe 10-20% of power. I checked magnetron and capacitor, no short circuit. Diode also seems to be ok... Don't know what to do :(
I have a microwave it's not heating but are moving if I measure continuaty for magnetron it's reading well as well as transformer I suspect capacitor and it's changed but still not heating what can I do assist my fellow technician?
Are all magnetrons standard in power, voltages, watts and ohms, etc., and can be used as replacements in any microwave oven? I'm trying to repair my microwave oven which is just about 2 years old, and the magnetron has stopped working. It's one of those that has a static (hot) plate - not the rotating kind. Can I use a magnetron from a rotating plate microwave oven to repair mine?
It would be a lot easier if I could understand you. Thanks for trying though. In the future try and simplify your explanation, and maybe edit the video where people can follow what you are saying more easily.
I can deal with broken English but even with broken English, one can gather their thoughts more clearly and be focused. He never actually troubleshot nor fixed the issue.
I have the fuse blowing as soon as it's plugged it. On unplugging the magnetron the fuse stops blowing and it powers the microwave. Can it be an issue in capacitor, diode or magnetron itself?
I ordered the capacitor not realizing the one I replaced was .91uF vs the one I ordered was 1.05 uF. when I installed it and tried to heat some water. I had it on for maybe 30 seconds and I started smelling like rubber so I stopped the microwave and unplugged it. The water was not warm when I pulled it out . Could the .10 uF have damaged anything else?
A capacitor like a battery has a negative and positive did mix it up when you replaced it. Also see if your capacitor is swollen or smell it if it burned out. either way you need to replace it and connect it right with the right uF
In my case, it was due to a bad micro-switch. There typically are three micro-switches that are mechanically controlled by the oven door. One is called the PRIMARY. Another is called the SECONDARY. And the last is called the MONITOR switch. The primary switch allows the AC power to reach the high voltage transformer, along with reaching the oven lamp, the fan motor, and the turn-table motor. The monitor switch is a safety switch that shorts out any AC power from reaching the locations just mentioned, but does so primarily to prevent microwaves being active when the door is open. So when the PRIMARY switch is open, the safety MONITOR switch is closed, and vice versa. In my case, the PRIMARY switch was occasionally getting stuck in the closed position when I opened the door. That of course sent 120 VAC to the MONITOR switch, and boom, the fuse blew due to the sudden extremely high AC current. And so the safety MONITOR switch did exactly what it was supposed to do. Anyhow, once the defective primary switch was replaced, all was well again.
Good job
@@FuseHVACRElectricalPlumbing Thanks bro. I love fixing things. The oven was manufactured back in June of 2004. It was a stainless steel oven that was on sale for just over $40 due to it being a show piece. In truth though, it was defective. One half of the key keyboard keys were not working. So I took it apart and cleaned the keyboard flex cable contacts and the main control board keyboard connector, and boom, all was well. Anyhow, it still looks today as new as the day I bought it long ago.
@@FuseHVACRElectricalPlumbing I also repaired my air conditioner. It is over 18 years old, and the motor was squealing big time. But I fixed that by using a method to reapply oil to the felt pads that hold on to oil supply to oil the brass bearings. I also repainted the air conditioner, and so it now looks a new as the day I purchased it.
@@helifynoe9930 Thank you very much for giving out some repair tips.
My microwave blown fuse twice. First time it blew i replaced it then it blew again could it be the microswitch? I noticed one of the three microswitch is stuck but im not sure if its the problem. I checked it for continuity and there is continuity.
I repair for a living. Units mounted above the cooking range. I tell them to get a new microwave due to the costs of dropping units down. Troubleshooting running and buying parts, installing parts, and remounting the microwave. It is cheaper and better to replace the unit due to the costs involved. If it is a high-end microwave, I will work on those because the units are expensive. The rule is. Will repair be 50% of the cost of a new microwave? If so, replace the unit. If my personal microwave breaks down. Yes, I repair it.
😁😁😁If you don't make repairs then you are not repairs man.
After watching tons of video finally I have repaired my microwave, thanks for helping me out 😊✌
This was helpful, my fuse keep blowing in less than 4 seconds, and the culprit was the capacitor. I changed all microswitch and door latch yet the problem didnt go away.
When i physically checked the capacitor i noticed it was dripping oil and when i checked for continuity it beeped.
Thanks again for saving me some money.
I use this information to fix my microwave yes its working 100% .thanks bro keep it up
hey bro much thanks you help me out alot im really glad there are still people like out there willing to help others and teach others what you have learned over the years thanks alot again for the explanation keep up the good work much love from the caribbean......
Thanks for posting this informative video. I was able to diagnose the capacitor as the device that was blowing the fuse. Xfmr in circuit alone was good, but when I hooked the capacitor back into the circuit (Magnetron left un-wired), the fuse blew.
Thanks for your feedback; it helps!
I liked what @Fuse HVAC & Appliance Repair explained in his video - the process of elimination. Since my one year old GE microwave started blowing fuse, I paid attention to his video without looking for grammatical mistakes or the like. It is a great favor he did for me by providing step by step procedure to troubleshoot. He gave the ideas, now I use my judgment and find out the sequence of operation to execute, i.e., start from the end of his video and march backward. Here is what the sequence of steps I am planning to execute: 1) Unplug the power to microwave, 2) remove the cover, 3) use insulated shoes and wear glove to insulate, 4) discharge the Capacitor with a pliers the way he has shown @12:35, then 5) disconnect the Magnetron, 6) disconnect the diode, 7) disconnect the Capacitor. 8) disconnect the main Transformer (on the HVAC side). At this point, I am thinking to check whether the fuse is blowing or not. 9) If not blowing, connect the main Transformer and check. 10) If fuse is not blowing, I will connect the Capacitor and Diode and check whether the fuse is blowing or not. 11) If not blowing, unplug and discharge the Capacitor and connect the Magnetron. Then plug in the power supply to microwave and check whether the fuse is blowing. 12) If not blowing, connect the Magnetron and check whether the fuse is blowing.
Viewer @ahaulss93 commented that before the cook time is completed, if the microwave door is pulled open, it might trip the breaker/blow the fuse. I am thinking to explore this possibility because, my GE Over the Range (OTR) microwave, which is bit hard to reach for some, its door was pulled open applying force at an angel while still it was running. Since that day fuse blowing started.
I request @Fuse HVAC & Appliance Repair or experts in this field to give some feedback on the sequence of execution of troubleshooting steps listed as above. Thanks to @Fuse HVAC & Appliance Repair for sharing his ideas and making the video for us to view and learn. Also I thank to other viewers who have given useful comments.
How did the diagnosis and repair turn out? Were you able to fix? I'm curious if it was related to the door switch.
@@shawnp8878 I tested the door switches by actuating with a narrow screw driver tip; exercised few times. They came out the way should they should be. I tested two Thermal cutoffs. One I could not take it out, so tested that in place. I removed the thermal cut off switch near the Magnetron and tested; found to be working properly. Then put it back and placed it securely and tightened the screw to make sure to have good contact. At the front top right when you face the microwave, there is a fuse. I replaced the fuse, which was blown in the first place to start trouble shooting. There are two or three screws there. Also there is a green ground wire. One of the screws passes through the ring shaped tip of the ground wire. When I tightened the screws, in the first instance it looked normal. However, something bothered me. When I looked closely, I found that the metal retainer clip was not oriented properly, which was leaving a very small air gap below the ground wire terminal ring. Had I not noticed that it would have caused blowing the fuse again, I believe. I positioned the retainer clip and the ground wire correctly such that noting was restricting the clip to firmly seat the ground wire when the screw is tightened. I put the cover and all screws making sure the components are secured well inside the outer cover plate. I plugged in the power chord to the wall; set the clock; tested the lights and the fan. Everything worked. Then put a cup of tap water inside. Closed the door. Set for 30 seconds. The Magnetron sound was smooth. Light inside the microwave turned on as usual and the microwave turned off after the the expiration of the 30 seconds of warming the cup of water. The water was pretty hot as the power level was 10 (default). I got away without replacing any part, except for the fuse which was blowing frequently prior to this repair session. I could not find any fault during testing. That is why I had to explain in a lengthy way so that you may speculate how it got fixed without replacing any part. I would think, some of the connections were loose and the the user yanked opened the door, which might have caused the door switch to get stuck. That might have triggered high current flow/high voltage thereby causing the loose connections to act out and create unsafe current flow situation. Once the door switches were exercised and the thermal cutoff switch and the grounding wire near the fuse were secured properly to have good contact, everything turned out to be safe for the microwave operation. Thanks for reading so far.
Very good post and guidence
@@mohammadarshad5878 Thank you for reading such a lengthy post.
Very nice explanation of the working parts of the microwave.
And the trouble shooting process.
Good overall video. I have a convenction microwave and here in Thailand they are very expensive so i always have to repair it. Transformer smoked up. New one fitted, hv fuse blown. I will continue and get this fixed. Probably capacitor...your sequence of checking is what i use too. I try not to kill nyself just yet too and discharge cap.
Excellent diagnostic explained. Thank you for sharing your ideas. Much appreciated.
Thank you! Detail and casual directions to follow. Didn't have to rewind vid, at all! ❤😊
You have tried to explain very well inspite of your English. thank you very much for the information.
Sorry for that. But we glad that you find it useful!
Great video! I learned so much. Even if I don't fix my microwave, I know how they work and how to trouble shoot them in the future. Thanks!
Thank you for the video, I understood most of the explanation. I replaced the fuse as it was blown. Power back up, clock works. When I press 30 sec and Start, the unit makes a funny sound and go black - another blown fuse. Based on your video, do I still need to check the Relay, and Door Switches? How do I discharge the capacitor safely as your video didn't show what you clearly.
Put two screwdrivers between two contacts of capacitor and touch them together cross
How did you fix yours? Mine is doing the same
Well Explained the theory and mechanism ... I fixed my Microwave
hi it's good to watch you tube I learned a lot of things , I repair radio ,TV n lot of things now thinks guys.
thankyou your tips were helpful
So glad!
Thank you, now I know my problem is in the low voltage side. No clue how to diagnose what’s going on, but one step closer at figuring it out… hopefully
Thx for this helpful video. I have an LG2031ST and the MGT thermostat keeps blowing yet the door switches are fine. Any suggestions as likely reason. All other fuses test fine.
Thank you sir that was an waesome explanation you are so very appreciated ❤
Thank you sir for the great information and patiently explaining it. Now, I can firmly say that I understand the core components of the microwave. I am trying to fix mine now. I suspect it is either the diode or magnetron. Your explanation helps with the entire troubleshooting and breaks it down nicely. Thank you so much!!
Практически всё понял и без английского :)))) Спасибо.)) То что сказал про конденсатор в конце нужно было говорить в начале :)))
I appreciate this video, thank you for the info. I'm grateful
Hello, I found that when the one wire coming from the monitor switch to the transformer is connected it blows the fuse after I start the microwave. Now when I disconnect the one wire from the transformer the microwave runs without blowing the fuse. I have replace the monitor switch several times and have even tested the monitor switch and all reads good. What could the problem be?
Great video, thanks. I have a GE microwave (jvm3160df2ww) and it is similar to the one you show. It blew the main 20A fuse on the noise filter board when I went to open the door with it running. I replaced the fuse and after using microwave for about a week it blew the fuse again immediately on startup. I noticed the lower left hand side door hinge support could move and allow the door to mis-align slightly. Can this misalignment (which is easy to fix) cause the 20A fuse to blow or is it likely to be something else? A few years ago I had a problem with a stuck relay that caused the microwave to start when you closed the door if there was cook time remaining on the timer, but I tapped the relay and have not seen that problem since. That problem did not blow any fuse.
bad switches could be
The microwave would trip the breaker in the panel when someone opened the microwave while it was running. I replaced the two black switches on the handle not the grey one on the bottom it ran but would blow the low voltage fuse (20A/250V) everytime we start the microwave. I will check the low voltage side like you explained but is this more of a capacitor or diode problem. Or is it just as likely to blow the fuse on startup if it's the transformer or magnetron? Thank you in advance.
@@charlesabbott9605 This may be late but lifting the door will keep the fuse from blowing until you can get it repaired. When the door sags the monitor circuit connected to the middle switch is the first to short out. If you lift the door when opening it that will be that last switch to operate. The top and bottom switches need to be off before the monitor circuit shorts the fuse. it's a safety feature to keep the microwave from operating when the door is opened with a faulty microswitch at the top or bottom.
@edwardmerry I feel this is the problem I'm currently facing with my Bosch mircowave. What do you recommend to repair this?
Would it be best practice to empty the capacitor before working on any part of the microwave? And how is that done? Thx in advance.
Thank you for this video ❤
Thanks for the Great vedio. My microwave was blowing the fuse and the problem was rust in the body. So I removed it and paint over it and it worked 🙂.
Sir salamat sa npakalaking tulong na inpormasyon at naway marami pa kyong matulungan na mga tecnician na kagaya ko. May tanung sana ako sir tungkol sa microwave na inaayos namin, ang problma ay na blow fuse sya kapag i ON namin sya. Sa pagsaksak hnd masusunog ang fuse pero pag i start mo na sya yun na blow fuse na kaagad. Salamat sir🙂
Sir nagkakaroon ka ng high current sa secondary ng high voltage transformer kaya nag blown ang fuse maaring kailangan palitan ang transformer i check mo ang winding insulation kung may open na magnet wire
Good day my friend. We have the same unit. But mine is sparking underneath the microwave. Do you know why?
Great video thank you!!
The secondary high voltage transformer I measured mine to be 156 ohms is it good or bad but I think it still fine it's closer to 200 even though I'm not sure of the range
good video, want to replace my diode and fuse but although l can find the diode l can not find the fuse, can you help me locate it. my microwave is not heating but everything else is okay.
Nice job but i couldnt se how u discharged capacitor and i hear thats quite important
well explained.
👍
Sir, my GE microwave fuse blows when 5 mins. heating but for 1 min. its ok. I check the switch its Ok also. So whats the problem
Possibly a thermal breaker.
Hello,I have a GE Microwave Model JVM1340BW02 keeps blowing mail fuse when trying to cook,all switches have continuity and work correctly,the lights work fans run but cannot cook and idea what it could be,loud hummmming!!! noise before fuse blows when trying to cook.Any Idea what the loud hummming is before line fuse blows??PLEASE HELP IF POSSIBLE.I have capacitor out and discharged.Any help appreciated.
I followed the tips for my Zanussi microwave and concluded that my diode was faulty. Just ordered a new one and will updat my comment if the issue is resolved. Thanks!
So ,let me understand , you did replace one and then another things untill you get it to work? Meaning you actually replace all the main things ??? Don't get me wrong but maybe I understood wrong but seems to me that you were guessing????
Excellent , systematic diagnosing and explanation.
I can hear my magnetron coming on but then it blows fuse. I put a new fuse and turn on microwave and I can hear magnetron come on and fuse blows. I also changed micro switches but no luck.
I can’t figure it out. Please help
❤thank you.very much....
Just awesome 👍
Physically & multimeter test ,my oven shows all ok display,transformer,diode ,capacitor,magnetron not any short or open circuit but when start button is pressed home mcb is down !!! What may be problem ? Please guide me !!
Just replace a clickaah and a the fuse. It works!!!!
@1:48 this is not a FUSE. it is a thermostat switch which opens the contact when temp raises about the predefined limit. And it comes to a normal state when temp. comes down. It is
Better known as a limit switch. Fuse... Similar, but definitely not a fuse.in the biz we just call it a limit.
По моему опыту что во всяких фэнси Вайкингах, что в сто-долларовых микроволновках проблемы всегда одни и те же - свитчи) или бывало на коннекторе, который к контрол-борду идет, проводки уставать начинают
Good explanation
please a video on how to fixed heat gun
My microwave heats fine, but when it is turned off and I close the door the microwave turns on by itself. The lights stay off, the turntable doesn’t move, the fan remains off but I hear a buzzing sound and a glass of water heats up quickly.
The microwave works normally otherwise with lights and turntable and fan operating fine.
Is this a stuck relay?
Thank you sir
Hi. I have the same microwave . The bottoms on the touchpad doesn’t work (some time occasionally couple buttoms work and microwave work really good ) . Some time I have a message - sensor Error . What I have to replace ? Thanks
Hello, my problem was when I plugged the microwave in, it caused a spark in the causing the houselights to go off. When all is turned back on, I tried to plug the microwave in again but it wont start. Could this be a blown fuse? And if so, what can I do to fix it?😊
If your breaker keeps going off on the start of microwave and you cook lots of oily curries as Nepalese and Indians do, try this first!
1) Unplug microwave and plug it back.
2) 1 did not work, get an extension cord to hook it up to a different power outlet and connect the microwave.
if(1 && 2) does not work => you are not lucky as me!! ;)
Thanks, good explanation.
Super
👍👍👍
All thermal fuses have continuity also.
My countertop GE microwave runs for less than a minute and then goes dark--timer continues to countdown but nothing else. After a few minutes of cooling down, the light flickers and then the unit comes back on. It cycles like this non stop. I have door switches coming. Can I test each of the thermostats by using a jump wire to take them out of the system one at a time? They are fine when ten tested cold, but my problem is intermittent. Thanks for any help.
Can't say for sure without seeing appliance
Sounds like your magnetron is overheating. Make sure the internal cooling fan is running.
My GE microwave has a bad monitor switch I tried replacing it with one off amazon (szm-v16-62) and it worked fine until the door is opened before the time runs out. This caused the monitor switch to get stuck closed(contacts weld together). Do you think that my microwave has other issues or should i try to replace the monitor switch again? Thank you for your help.
So was it transformer or magnetron that was bad?
My microwave when i plug in into power it blows the fuse plug every moment which could be the best way to fix the problem?
SIR, I HAVE GE TABLE TOP MICROWAVE AND IT IS COMPLETE DEAD. I HAVE CHECKED ALL PARTS WITH MULTI METER,ITS KEEPING ON CONTINUOUS MODE, ITS OK, OPEN MANATRON, ITS OK, DOOR SWITCH ITS OK, RELAY, ITS OK. POWER SUPPLY DOES NOT FLOW THOUGH ITS OK. PLEASE GIDE TO RESOLVE THE PROBLEM. THANKS.
Why do you think when I start microwave " house fuses" blows? Not the fuses inside it
Good info! Thanks.
Thermal fuse replace or can u reset
My microwave does not heat and blows fuse I’m pretty sure I’ve tested the magnetron , capacitor, thermal protectors, diode and the transformer all seems to test fine but still blows fuse please help
My microwave is working but heating not well. Maybe 10-20% of power. I checked magnetron and capacitor, no short circuit. Diode also seems to be ok... Don't know what to do :(
If the micro wave is not hot what can we do thanks
please, I need instruction on how to fix door will not close. whirlpool 2008 model mh 1160 xss-4
Open up the microwave and have a look.
What happen if microwave still have no power after replaces the fuse and door switch, could it be the capacitator or something else?
I have a microwave it's not heating but are moving if I measure continuaty for magnetron it's reading well as well as transformer I suspect capacitor and it's changed but still not heating what can I do assist my fellow technician?
Do you hear any noises during work?
Do these have different diodes and capacitors location do they look please show
You cant make a voltage doubler with just one cap and one diode
As soon As I plug in MIcrowave blows the fuse, what is the reasons?
Are all magnetrons standard in power, voltages, watts and ohms, etc., and can be used as replacements in any microwave oven?
I'm trying to repair my microwave oven which is just about 2 years old, and the magnetron has stopped working. It's one of those that has a static (hot) plate - not the rotating kind. Can I use a magnetron from a rotating plate microwave oven to repair mine?
Why when I change the door prog at the bottom now the light stay on and control board won’t start a minute
It would be a lot easier if I could understand you. Thanks for trying though. In the future try and simplify your explanation, and maybe edit the video where people can follow what you are saying more easily.
I found him extremely adorable and informative.
I can deal with broken English but even with broken English, one can gather their thoughts more clearly and be focused. He never actually troubleshot nor fixed the issue.
Thermal fuse blown make no heat?
My microwave is heating, but it make loud noise
What is the problem
👍
new microwave 89$ walmart
Now is not working wat is the problem now can you help me please Samsung model:ms143sce
Hello! Please, call us (408) 721-2530 and we will do our best to solve your problem!
I have the fuse blowing as soon as it's plugged it. On unplugging the magnetron the fuse stops blowing and it powers the microwave.
Can it be an issue in capacitor, diode or magnetron itself?
Microwave blows on motherboard fuse works but no power
my modern CPU is pinning itself at 100% because google has no idea how to run a website properly.
Always discharge capacitor
I ordered the capacitor not realizing the one I replaced was .91uF vs the one I ordered was 1.05 uF. when I installed it and tried to heat some water. I had it on for maybe 30 seconds and I started smelling like rubber so I stopped the microwave and unplugged it. The water was not warm when I pulled it out . Could the .10 uF have damaged anything else?
A capacitor like a battery has a negative and positive did mix it up when you replaced it. Also see if your capacitor is swollen or smell it if it burned out. either way you need to replace it and connect it right with the right uF
In my country we used 240V to running microwave....my english not so good..sorry
H.V fuse don't have at chinese microwave(made in China).
I will try to understand you ahahahahahhahaha
You got one to many zero “120V to 2100V
U are not taking about H V fuse
Issue with HV/power seems common among all devices, IMO.
Mine buzzes and then blows the fuse.
what if you turn the microwave on and it saids door
Door switch is the problem
Door will not open
It is not even onion
Iam having a hard time understanding what you are trying to say!
My oven is getting spark in magnetron
May you need change mica layer
@@FuseHVACRElectricalPlumbing yes I changed yesterday but again same problem repeating
Is everything clean inside?