The Wood-Mounted Motherboard Challenge!
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
- The Wood-Mounted Motherboard Challenge!
I need to mount a motherboard to wood, so I try out some different methods in this video.
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200pcs M3 Brass Standoff Assortment Kit - amzn.to/30zLGll
Drillpro 6pcs Combination 1/4" Hex Twist Tap Drill Bit Set - amzn.to/2LOXLiH
Makita XT273R 18V LXT Lithium-Ion Cordless 2-Pc. Drill Kit (2.0Ah) - amzn.to/30wTcOc
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Thanks for watching guys! 🙏 Here are links to some of the videos I mentioned --
Most Recent HTPC Video - ua-cam.com/video/TTEgF2ymcQ0/v-deo.html
Building a Stand for Riptide - ua-cam.com/video/4MN_GXVcqW8/v-deo.html
You might want to look into nutserts or rivnuts.
Im excited about this I've been thinking about doing a similar thing I just have an issue figuring out how to do the drive trays id like something smooth instead of just stacking an optical drive on a shelf inside lol
I'll be watching this closely. Definitely put a video up on your custom build. I want to do this as well!
I think you have a good idea with the insert. You could drill all the way through. Screw in another bolt to it at the bottom. Where you can attach your grounding wire. So it is clean and hidden a little. Since i know your i to looking neat and trim.
But but but, you can just buy "4 Pronged Tee Nuts" for this....
Disappointed Paul wasn't wearing one of Kyle's "Screw with Confidence" shirts for this video :-P
Pro tip that we use on RC airplanes - add thin CA to the holes let dry and re-tap threads. The threads will be much stronger.
what's a CA???
Same question lol
@@johnnyxp64 it's a brand of super-glue.
@@mhoop1 It's the other way around, Super Glue is a brand of cyanoacrylate (CA) glue.
SteelSkin667 either way those to lazy to google now know it’s glue.
Push-in brass inserts mate.
M3 one needs like 4mm hole and once you push it in it should be super tough.
I have never heard the term "Freedom units" for inches before. Made my day. 😄
I love how something that is historically British or comes from the British commonwealth is labelled “Freedom Units”.
Done in a jokey-manner,for the lol`s!
also consider Degrees Freedomheit when talking about the weather.
M3 brass insert nuts would be all you need for this really. Just thread them into the wood throw in the standoff and boom
I thought exactly the same. Would be the easiest method.
My very first thought also. Something like these: www.amazon.com/Threaded-Brass-Insert-Nuts-Wood/dp/B01C1Q4SIA but there are many, many variations.
I came to say this exactly! Seems like the perfect solution.
A little overkill for a motherboard. I screwed the standoffs directly into the wood without taping it. Works just fine.
@@senzelian they cost like £3 it's fine to go overboard. Belt and braces ye
Be careful. In plywood or any other engineered wood, this would work perfectly but in any solid woods, if the humidity changes, there will be wood expansion and contraction which might loosen the inset standoff after a while. I would personally use a dab of epoxy and the inset standoff method to be extra sure. 🙂
this is actually very helpful thank you very much.
Plywood is actually more subject to thermal expansion and contraction when it comes to connectors. When working with plywood you want to use the same techniques you would use with a softwood. Walnut is a hardwood and probably will hold it better than plywood ever would. Though a dab of epoxy won't hurt. The advantage to engineered wood is you have to worry less about the anisotropic nature of wood so you don't have to consider grain direction. You get the same structural properties along the length and width of the board in the case of plywood. in the case of MDF, it will also be the same across the thickness.
Wouldn't thin superglue be better for gluing this? considering the tight tolerances around the standoffs. Might also leave less of a mess than the epoxy..
My thoughts exactly.
Yes. And over time, just going into the wood without the nut will wear the threads over time. Especially in earthquake prone areas like southern California where you get enough small tremors that it puts stress on the wooden threads. nuts with epoxy will help mitigate that and give them some flexibility without letting it go.
I would call this project Morning Wood!
Definitely the brass insert.
Common trick for repeating hole depth is to measure distance hole needs to be on bit, then wrap masking tape around it to have a set depth.
"For those of you measuring in FREEDOM UNITS" lol
I've done quite a few wooden scratch built computer cases. I've done a number of approaches.
1.) Pre-made motherboard trays (Lian-Li replacements I believe), which got screwed to the wood.
2.) Threaded inserts with a standoff (some glued in, some not)
3.) Standoffs straight into the wood
4.) Glued little wooden blocks to the main board where the mounting holes are, then just used pan head wood screws into the wood
All worked fine with no issues in my scenarios, but my favorite method is threaded inserts with standoffs, unless the wood in question is not thick enough to accomodate the threaded insert (not an issue you would have here).
For the size of the motherboards, you don't have to worry about wood movement, unless you're going to be having an ATX motherboard going the long way across the grain (that is to say you're using a 14"+ wide board to mount the motherobard to). There should be enough play in the through hole that the mounting screw goes through that it won't matter
i've done a few wooden pc builds and i've always just drilled a small whole and screwed in the standoff, so it like self taps i guess.
PAUL! In addition to the grounding wire (that you can feed through the wood and run it in the back where it won't be seen), you might want to put a section of copper foil on the back to act as a universal grounding plate. Get the same stuff that guitar makers use to shield their control cavities. This way, when you screw your standoffs into either the wood or the nut you sunk in the wood, it will pierce the foil, and make a mechanical connection.
The easiest way is the following:
1. Buy the cheapest second had case with detachable motherboard tray. Or one that can be removed easily
2. Demount the motherboard tray
3. Mount the motherboard tray to the wood using any screw
4. Mount the motherboard as usually to it...
Used it to place my bedroom PC directly into a cabinet...
ive done that before, but i built my own skeleton case using an old rusty erector set. it looked really cool
Really good suggestion, also acts as a heat shield I guess.
@@martenkl-71 Plus you get around the expansion and shrinking of solid wood
Why not use riv-nuts (rivet with a thread) or well-nuts??
rivetnuts.com/
Everyone smash the like in these please so Paul sees
I was thinking the same, rivet, tried and tested in evryyythinnggg.
The chance to split the wood using this is high, because they need to expand to properly fit, that why is most used on metal. For wood the best option is or screw directly, what I highly don't recommend, or use insert nuts.
Paul: "I could possibly use these nuts..."
Nobody
Nobody at all
My brain: [AIRHORNS]
Wood grain to a whole new level. LGR would approve
Well he has wood grain socks. Nobody can top that.
I made my own test bench yesterday and I used both wood and perspex. I used the perspex for the motherboard and the wood for the stand. Used screws to get them together and used a 2mm drill bit in perspex to just screw in my 2.5mm motherboard screws with also using higher stand screws to lift the motherboard.
Super easy epoxy in motherboard risers into pre-drilled holes. you need to slightly oversized the holes to allow for wood expansion and contraction without affecting the motherboard.
If you wanted to thread into the wood you would need to use some steel t-nuts to thread into the threading on the motherboard standoffs are too small for any kind of thread into wood over the long-term. Make sure you also leave some slop some spare room for the wood to expand and contract or it will try and crack your motherboard. Speaking from experience - the wood PC guy
You could drill all the way thru the wood, secure the standoff on the back side with a screw and use the back for your grounding wires. You could also use a router to make channels for the ground wire to keep it clean. =) Looking forward to seeing this finished.
So you have nuts to help you mount your wood? ; - )
APPROVE
😂
Isn’t friction the only thing holding in the inset standoffs, though? When the standoffs themselves are screwed in, they’d come out if you pulled straight up on them hard enough (ie, attach a fully loaded mobo and turn it upside down). At least with the tapbit method you’ve got the threads providing mechanical holding power. I’m not a carpenter, but it seems like things would get dangerously loose when the wood naturally expands.
I did something like this a little while ago. I used plastic standoffs and screwed them into MDF. It worked fine and it's still holding up today.
I've done something like this in the past, and i found the only really secure mounting method, just because of the tiny size of the hardware (nuts & bolts), as well as wood being able to expand and contract with differences in temperature and humidity, was to get a cheapo case (i'm guessing you have plenty around), cut it up to get the actual motherboard tray, trim it down so that it's smaller than the board, so that it's not visible when viewing it from the front, and then screw that motherboard tray directly into the wood, using actual wood screws.
That would also help with grounding, as you can run a ground wire from the tray, through the wood, and then run it on the back side, so that it won't be visible.
Dealing with wood opens up a whole host of challenges you definitely don't want to get wrong... or face disaster.
1. Wood screw threading is different to metal - the former is coarse and the latter is fine. The reason involves grip since wood is softer than metal. This becomes important when dealing with weight because heavy items can get ripped out if the screw thread is not secure. There is no glue in the world that can hold up to even a short but properly secured screw.
2. Wood type and hardness. Drilling into something like plywood or oak is best for securing items with screws as opposed to soft wood such as pine or particle board. The best advice here is to go with as deep a screw as the wood you have will allow. If you have to deal with soft wood then consider using a bolt, drilling through and mounting with washers. Washers will help spread the load so that the bolt head doesn't end up pinching the hole resulting in the wood splitting, or worse, having the head go right through. There's also furniture assembly bolts that you can use that once hammered in will give you a metal thread to secure your screws to.
3. Orientation. I am assuming you want to wall mount your rig vertically. You will have to locate the studs in your wall and secure your wood piece to that. Here you can use anchors on the back that hang onto bolts in your wall. Another idea would be to get a swivel arm 200mm VESA mount designed for heavy TV's and secure that to your wood piece with 8-12 large wood screws.
4. Wood can also have a tendency to split over time if it hasn't dried out properly. I cannot tell you how many times I've got DIY shelving from Home Depot, taken it home, cut to size and fitted only to see cracks in it weeks later. For load bearing applications cracks are a major problem. The best thing you can do here short of replacing is to mount it using enough points so that a crack or split doesn't affect it's strength.
5. Wood can also sag/bend over time from loads and temperature variances. It's not uncommon for even 2x4 and thicker sections to bend and curve where you would otherwise want a dead straight section. Reinforcing the wood with L profile steel brackets (you don't want to go aluminum) is one method that I have found works.
6. Drilling into knots. This can be unavoidable depending on where you are trying to locate your screw. Not only do knots prevent threads from holding, the entire knot itself can fall out. My solution has been to drill elsewhere, mount a second piece of wood as a structural point, and then use that for the original hole.
7. Consider a table mount versus wall mount. Depending on how heavy the finished piece is it might be best to have it sitting on a flat base, not only for holding the weight, but for stability. It's not too difficult to bolt together a H frame for a base with a T frame going up vertical. I've built TV stands exactly this way using 1.5x5.5 and they are dead stable, able to hold the weight 5x the TV on it, and with enough bolts/washers holding it together will never let go of what's mounted to it.
Good luck with your project. Hope this helps.
Yay for inserts! Very clean, very professional, very sturdy, most reliable and easy to deal with in the long term. Definitely the best solution here. I approve. Do that. the other solutions aren't as good. Did I say how much approval I give to the inserts solution? Well I give it all. Brass inserts in a rustic piece of wood will look sooo damn right. This is what everybody should do. No I haven't run out of good things to say about inserts. Good. Such brass. Much inserts. wow.
great video! But please make one about how to wood-mount a PSU and other pieces of hardware... coz i'm curious. the motherboard is probably the easiest
Paul, all you have to do is drill a hole the diameter of the solid part of the screw inside the threads. Machine screws will hold very well and make their own threads. This is particularly true in hardwood. I use this method all the time with MDF. Forget the glue and nuts in my opinion.
Hey bud. It's way way easier to use T-nuts or Insert Nuts if you want to use those standoffs in wood. No weird gluing and getting the threads gummed up. I personally cut the mobo tray off of an old case and trimmed it so you can't see it.
I made my own open test bench about 10-15 years ago, with just stuff I found at the hardware store. Drilled holes into a kitchen cutting board, through the back put screws with washers so they could never come through, or move, then on the top side, I cut up a closed cell flat neoprene pad as my stand offs, and put those over the screws. Thats been my motherboard work bench for a decade or so and with dozens of motherboards, some used for years at a time.
This was great, I did something similar to this recently with much thinner wood. I used a screw to hold the standoff into the wood, effectively mounting the standoff upside down, and secured the motherboard to the self-aligning standoffs with nuts.
your preferred method is cool. if you REALLY want to go all in you can desolder the power and data sockets from the motherboard, resolder them on the other side, route all the wires hidden behind the wood.
Thank you. I just found a wine box that's perfect for an ATX case. You've answered 2 of 3 lingering questions. The last is about airflow!
This is exactly what I was looking for. I'm Building a desk PC and wanted to mount the MB directly to the wood instead of having an Motherboard tray sitting on top of the wood . Thanks !!!!!!!
Looks good. I've used stainless steel wood screws with a spacer between the MB and the lumber made from a nylon refrigerator water line. You can custom cut the spacers with an Exacto knife so it's the exact height you want it to be. It's very solid and cheap to make.
Defintely using this same method for my forthcoming diy pincab project
Okay, so as a woodworking guy. I recommend using plastic sheetrock anchors. They come in all kinds of styles and sizes. Find the one that suits you. Drill the appropriate hole. Hammer them in. Screwing in the standoff expands the anchor providing excellent grip. No epoxy needed.
Built myself a Desk-PC last year, was going to put the standoffs in the wood, but ended up going with an acrylic motherboard mount so it would difuse the lighting a bit. Plus I had a really tough time finding standoffs around here, not a huge modding scene in the vicinity sadly, would love it! It's one of the things that inspired me to start my channel, hope I get to work on such a project again.
I would put the spacers into Polished acrylic, carbon fiber, silver and or titanium perhaps with a gold plate. Translucent edging on acrylic might light nice.
I'm in the process of building a PC into my wardrobe.
I drilled two 114mm holes for a 240mm radiator at the bottom for the intake and I exhaust the hot air out the top. That makes for a quite efficient cooling setup.
perhaps most secure: bolted through with a bolt with same thread size as a female-female standoff (can get those in any height). Bonus would be if you use conductive bolts you could add that ground-wire on the back side of the wood out of view. Could use stand-offs tall enough to do a bit of real cable management behind the Mobo too?
I build radio control aircraft and we do one of the following ….
1. After using the tap-bit coat the tapped hole with a drop of superglue. Be sure to get all the threads wet. Let dry and run tap down hole again.
2. When epoxying a nut into a hole, coat the screw with a small amount of Vaseline before screwing into nut. After the epoxy sets the screw should come out easily.
I plan to do the same for my RV. Gonna have to get a ribbon cable and mount my video card the same way. Fun project!
I have two worries about using wood to mount your mother board. First is that wood has insulating properties and even with the stand offs it will retain more heat. Second is the expansion and contraction of solid wood with the rapid change in temperatures and especially when you add in a humidity factor.
IMO, your approach is a tad overkill, but it does look solid! I've got an dual G34 Opteron board mounted to a slab of wood. I used small, self-tapping, wood screws and a dozen nylon spacers purchased at the local Ace for a few pennies each. I located the mobo, then used a long nail to dimple each hole center. Remove mobo. Use nail and hammer (or small drill) to establish a good pilot hole. Start at one corner with screw / mobo / spacer / board, and work your way across the board. The middle spacers are a pain. You can tack them into place with a drop of CA, or push them around with a straw to position them properly.
I've started making mine a couple weeks ago. I just drilled through the entire wood, used long screws, relatively large diameter washers at the back, and just female/female (motherboard) standoffs at the front. It might be a bit too much, but it will hold some decent weight.
I was thinking the same and how to mount on wood because of the grounding and if there are any issues with it. The only issue i can find is the heat at the back of the motherboard so if you want use one more on top of the stand offs you already using for 1/2 inch space because wood and heat not a good combo.
Those screws are designed to be used with metal so using the standoff or washer would likely be the more successful methods. Wood is comparatively soft so the close and compact threads can eventually tear through the tapped bits of wood over time depending on the stresses it's exposed to.
Realistically tapped wood will probably work, although I might opt to drill a small hole and tap it by using the mobo standoffs to lower your tolerances. If the wood isn't obscenely dense and hard the mobo standoffs should be strong enough.
I also work a bit with screws and resins, you can use vaseline (petroleum jelly) or lithium grease as a release agent for your screws so that your washers/standoffs are properly positioned. Just coat the threads and screw 'em in. I've used that method under 15-20 PSI of vacuum so there shouldn't be any issue with press fit pressures in a porous material.
Oh and if you really want to do it proper, rough up the surfaces of pieces you are going to epoxy with some sandpaper, 120 grit ish or less to increase surface area for it to bond to. Might be a good idea to go with a resin that has a low viscosity to eliminate air pockets that will weaken the bond. Don't go too thin or it will get absorbed into the wood's pores. Even though you've pre stained the wood if you drill you're exposing end grain again which loves to absorb most liquids and ruin your finish.
If there's any epoxy overspill let it set for awhile and when it's a little more solid (but still a little pliable) use a sharp chisel to cut it away. If you just wipe with a rag or your finger you can cause it to spread and soak into the pores of the wood which will show through when you stain it. Wait until it fully cures before you sand it flush and do a final finish.
Option 1 for the standoffs is actually the best & easiest imho. If you want to use one of the options with embedding the nuts, use a drill bit for wood. The one you used are drill bits for metal. They create quiet a bit more tearout than wood drill bits. Also, with wood drill bits, the bottom of the hole will be flatter, less conical.
I think I would try using dual thred screws:
M3x15 with wood thread tip.
Drill a smaller pilot hole.
Then screw in the wood threads, leaving the M3 threads outside.
Then mount standoff on the M3 sticking out.
If you want shorter M3 sticking out: you can go deeper on the pilot hole and expand to 3mm just the part uou want to sink the M3.
I used this method with M8 dual thread screw and M8 furniture nuts for a ceiling hatch, to get a semi permanent mount, but easy to unscrew the nuts every time I want access, avoiding wear on the wood threads.
I mentioned this in the video before but 3D printing motherboard mounts and other mounts is a real option. My bro helped me out with that and my GPU motherboard, 2.5inch drives and power supply all have 3D printed mounts attached using proper wood screws, and the holes are all M3 to hold the hardware. Really handy if you know someone with a 3d printer laying around willing to donate some time.
Yeah, I'd default to brass inserts as a general recommendation. Personally, however, I'd mount standoffs with a bolt from the other side of the board. It would let me wire ground between every standoff, hidden on the rear of the board, and be very strong.
If you don't have a drill press. Use a piece of wood perpendicular to the base to guide the hand drill straight. 3mm screws straight through the bottom of the wood works. then there is aluminum 1/2 inch bar which is the best because you can thread the aluminum. Just a thought.
You can drill a hole like you did for the first one put a few drops of thin ca in the hole prior to threading the stand off in let it set. will give the threads something a little more to bite into. This method is used when building rd airplanes that weight alot more then a MB
I did this but drilled all the way through and put m3 machine screws through the hole held in by the hole being smaller than the screw and then using one nut to hold it more securely and act as a standoff then another nut ontop to hold the mb on. Cost 2$ and worked very well.
There are products specifically made to mount into wood with outside and inside threads or fasters. The first one is a "Tee" nut it has 4 spike and an out side flange. You drill a slightly undersized hole and pound it in from the back and you have machine screw threads to screw into. The other is a furniture threaded insert that has wood screw on the outside and machine screw threads on the inside. These products are available at Ace or other well stocked hardware stores. You were attempting to re-invent the wheel. On the other hand, I really enjoy your videos, keep up the great work.
good video . the first simple version is the best .
but you need more space in the back of the motherboard for better cooling .
With the threaded drill bit after drilling your hole use a little super glue in the hole. It toughen up the wood so the threads have stronger grip onto the screw. It's used in rc modeling all the time
Hey Paul. Look into M4 M5 M6 M8 Type E Hex Drive Screw For Wood B In Threaded Insert Bushings. Puts a nice treaded insert into wood.
had the same thought
Few years since this video was put up now but definitely found it helpful 👌
Mounted an old laptop mobo & perifs to a piece of wood using zip ties and scotch tape years ago. Still runs to this day. Nice to see this concept with a little more thought put into it though. This actually gives BK a great idea using old (scrapped) helicopter parts. Thanks for the vid!
I would do the hammered in standoff method but I would use one of the standoffs that has a screw on the end rather than the double threaded. Drill the depth for the hex portion, then drill a smaller hole for the threaded and then put a tiny bit of epoxy on the treads before hammering it in. The screw end will keep the epoxy out of the center threads so you can remove the motherboard stand-off from the inset one and the epoxy will help bond it into the hole.
Largely using fasteners like this comes down to the weight to be held and the orientation (which way is gravity gong to try to rip out the fastener) AND very important, how often is it going to be disassembled. You can thread all kinds of materials and at first they will all hold well, until you start taking out and putting in the fastener repeatedly. That will cause the threads to degrade faster than anything in non-rigid, non-tough materials: like wood or plastic vs metal (weight and orientation not being a factor with these lite-weight parts). What ever method you use, use a drill press to keep it vertical if you can.
In this application you are likely to put the standoff into the wood once and never take it out again. That eliminates a lot of thread degradation right there. Even better is to form the threads, then apply a little thin cyanoacrylate glue to lock the wood fibers into an acrylic matrix, like epoxy and fiberglass. I'd also add a small, thin washer under the standoff to stabilize it against soft materials because of the very small bearing shoulder area on them. Easy to come out uneven if over tightened.
Once you have a stack of wood, tight standoff, motherboard and tight screw - it's unlikely you'll vibrate it enough to loosen anything. If your fans are that bad, you should replace them.
For inserts, there are a wide variety of them designed for specific materials. I use ones designed for heat insertion in plastic a lot. 3d printed threads are surprisingly strong but will suffer from frequent use of the screws. So one time use, no problem. Frequent disassembly, use inserts.
To use the brass hex insert like in this video I would do it this way (glue is optional).
1. Drill your hole.
2. Screw together the brass bottom insert, a washer and standoff (makes it much easier to handle, insert straight and to equal depth).
3. For glue - put a little candle wax into the bottom of the insert (keep the glue out of the threads).
4. Apply a thin film of glue on the hole sides and on surface of insert (it doesn't take much and the bottom doesn't matter, the sides have all your surface area).
5. Push the insert in until the washer sits flat.
Well, wood doesn't last forever, and in all scenarios that might be the limiting factor, as a certified hobby machinist, I would seriously recommend using a scrap piece of metal to make some more lasting thread in an X shaped design and screw in your metal piece into wood and then cheat a little and use nut to attache the risers and maybe sink the nut into wood. A few screws and some metal backing to the wood can be stronger than wood surface friction in my opinion, just hide the screws with the board. I like wood texture a lot, so I have been thinking about something like this, but I prefer to use a few screws and some metal to attach it. Plenty of donor old machines around.
You could also drill a second smaller hole all the way through, tap in the anchor, and thread a screw in from the other side. But generally I think tapping in the standoff into the slightly smaller hole would be solid forever.
Tap, add thin ca glue into tapped wood, let it dry and tap again. It is surprisingly strong, I tested it a while ago on load bearing applications
You can also use knurled threaded insert nuts -- you can get them in M3 and other sizes. They've got little teeth all around, and would be similar to your embedded standoff method, but with even more grip.
I'm building a home bar with a 55" TV on the back wall, and I plan on an open air wall mounted PC as well. I'm doing a wood slap bar top, so a wood mounting base for the PC will look awesome!
i have done a similar thing where i put standoffs on a wood block. i drilled a much smaller hole and just screwed in the standoffs. but after i was done with that i noticed it got loose after a few months.
i would say go with insert with some epoxy. cause the those inserts have a smooth surface contact with the wood. theres a chance it could slip out. especially since it will be vertically mounted
Pro-tip from a woodworker, you can get 10 m3 press-in threaded inserts for less than a dollar on ebay, and just use super glue and it'll never come apart, and they have different lengths so you can get even more holding power.
You might even be able to find the kind that are threaded on both sides, but for smaller fasteners like m3 a press-in or a t-nut on the back works so much better.
I mounted a motherboard to plexiglass by screwing the standoffs into the plexi. You could make plexi the same size as you components then mount to it. Then attach the plexi to the wood in a non destructive way incase you want the nice wood later. Standoffs hammered into the wood will last a long time. Looks like this will be a really nice project.
Having done a build in a picture frame with just thin ply it's still holds up well. But I have no big heavy cards in or heavy heatsink and that's where care needs to be made if that's where the build is heading.
I did this like 7 years ago for a home media server.
*Before it was cool
Thats when he started this build aswell...
PCB standoffs AKA Arcade mainboard standoffs work better long term and can handle weight. It uses two parts, a wood screw to hold the standoff on onto a wood panel then a machine screw to hold on the motherboard or whatever. Also run a ground jumper from the Power Supply casing to the bottom of at least one motherboard standoff.
I would probably get much longer standoff nuts and drill all the way through, and then use a screw and washer from the back side to hold it in. I feel as though this would be the most secure and barely increase your costs; I know I couldn't afford to have hardware fall off!
Hope you see this but just get M3 threaded inserts it’s what I use for sub box for the mounting for the subs so I can remove and swap stuff out without damaging wood would work the same for you
For those who will follow the "inset standoff" you may put a piece of wood between the hammer and the inset. To avoid damaging the inset during hammering. Needless to say, you have to initially put the inset tip a little bit to have a vertical position.
just finished watching how to build a 2019 setup and i liked your explanation, Thank you.
Looking forward to this build please get it up ASAP.
Today in computers: Watch me drill this wooden board!
I kid, interesting video Paul. I like the tap method, but I can see trying to keep everything straight can be a pain. Keep us posted!
Thanks! you just helped me confirm my thoughts. I'm building a pelican case pc and avoiding static is a high priority, so wood it is!
I've built a DIY PC to look like and old radio............I mounted the MB with threaded inserts...........was very effective. Large OD wood threads.
Going to use your video as inspiration for a diy terrarium with raspberry pi - thinking of building a small box to house electronics behind the home-made unit. Many thanks!
ive had a nice laptop motherboard (i7, case got cracked and cost as much as a new unit) mounted to a piece of carpeted wood acting as our "smart tv" in my bedroom for several years now. i used the tap method, using the board's oddly placed holes from the case. i used a long screw, partially unthreaded, to support the power plug as it hangs, and it works great. hdmi to the tv and a nice stereo and it outperforms every smart tv on the market in the smarts region. i stream local content, all the streaming apps, youtube content, and can even sit and play warcraft on it. not bad for recycled parts...
I used a slightly smaller drill bit to simply anchor the motherboard standoffs into painted 5 ply 1/2" plywood board.
It's been mounted and functional for a decade, it's what I'm posting with at the moment.
Paul's Hardware - there is an improvement for the "tap method" by putting a small blob of wood glue in the hole before screwing it in, that way the wood that the threads bite into will become a very solid mass for the future, and you will still be able to remove it later if you decide to...
What you could do is mount a 1/4 inch aluminum plate to the wood, then tap holes in the plate.
Then you would have a ground plate to connect to it.
Also, heat from the M/b would dissipate better.
OR, tear apart a chassis, and mount that to the wood, leaving you a mounting bracket for the GPU card. Also giving you an I/O shield plate.
i have a plan for one day when ill have money to build a pc inside a table with all new components...like properly powerfull, with rgb and glass windows....and this is one of the things i will need to do to put a motherboard on the planks....so its good to see you actually can do it....awesome!...thanx paul! ^__^
Look up helicoil, we use them at work to allow us to put structural screws into 3d printed holes for quick prototyping. Think of it as a combination of the tapped wood and the brass insert.
On the stand offs, use the direct method with the threaded drill. Fill the hole with super glue that will sink into the wood and strengthen it around the hole area. Then the when dry re drill thread the hole or better still just use a hand tap.
I believe the inset stand off with the littlest bit of epoxy would work well. The inset stand off will hold when the air is dry, and the epoxy will hold it in even if you run into some humidity issues. Great video Paul. Got some ideas for my next PC build!!!
And here I've got this test rig set up with the mobo just sitting on it's box happily running 24/7 with a Xeon E3-1240, some RAM and a RX560 and a SATA SSD hanging off it somewhere. Oddly...it works.
I didn't think the tap drill setup would work. I wonder how well it would do with 8 sticks of ram, a large air cooler and a big graphics card installed on the motherboard. I think you made the right choice with the hammered in standoffs. Perhaps a light coating of epoxy just before you hammer them in, but I think that's probably just overkill.
Using the inset standoff is your best bet. I don't think you will need to make threads as the standoff should thread itself. Also, when hammering in the standoff, thread a junk stand off in the standoff you want inset so you don't damage the inset standoff. GL dude :)
Currently building a PC inside a pelican case. Trying to figure out if I should use Acrylic or Wood as a motherboard tray.
Hey. I already have done an unusual case a couple of times. It never occured to me to do an inset. I took a motherboard tray and secured it to the bottom of the wooden chest I had turned into a pc case. Now, I am going to need to try this for my next project.
I would go with the tap method, just add small bit of wood glue or epoxy to the threads before final mounting. That way you start with the smallest hole, and if it doesn't work out, everything else uses a larger hole, so there wouldn't be any need to scrap your piece of wood and start over.
I’m working on designing a DIY chassis similar to the Singularity Computers Spectre case but I want dual loops with integrated manifold/reservoir and a 90* rotation. I’m in the planning stages now, but it’s gonna be a while before I’m able to start on it.
for the love of god! !!!
three hours to find the best video for my problem.
I really need to learn how to google.
Advantage of tap bit first is you can re-drill later and fit the inset standoff later if the first fails; i.e. the first hole will allow re-drilling to the larger hammered in inset. Once you go inset, you only have the nut method which just sucks.