Great video, For anyone following the swapping the pcv method (not the whole oil trap assembly), a trick to help installation is to push the membrane into the cap as far as you can and put a piece of electrical tape of the vent hole to hold the membrane in place and keep it from falling out during installation. Once installed remove the tape.
Thanks for your videos - I have followed several of them to fix my 2011 S60 T6 AWD. My problem manifested itself as a P0171 code with the fuel trims at idle as high as +50 for both the ST and LT trims. I did observe the vacuum in the crankcase as shown in the video. I did not have the squealing and other issues described. My replacement from RockAuto still had a problem, which I diagnosed by using a DIY smoke machine. I finally bought the Dorman 917-147 PCV Valve Diaphragm from Autozone based on @OhWell advice below and fixed my problem. Also, per @a kamstra , I started the car and let the vacuum suck down the diaphragm into place and hold it while I put on the cap - it works very well.
I’ve changed this part one my 2007 XC90, it wasn’t creating the vacuum such as this, but, my oil consumption increased significantly. Which I found can also be a symptom. After replacement the oil consumption returned to normal. I always enjoy your videos. I’ve learned a lot and actually made a couple of repairs after watching your video!!!
This is why I did it. I also switched to a high mileage oil. Hopefully makes a difference. The different oil that I’m using seems to have added an extra 1500 miles between consumption. It used to do a court every 3500 miles now it’s at 5000.
Hello, thank you for your informative videos. I just replaced the PCV valve on my 2010 XC60 Volvo. For those who are replacing the valve for the first time, note should be made that the new valve needs to be oriented in a specific way. I haven't checked, but in all likelihood, the rectangular perforations fit only one way, but I just guided myself by the Volvo lettering on the original. The semi delta depression on the valve cap should point towards the firewall at about 11 o'clock.
Get the cap really warm or almost hot by using a hairdryer on high or a heat gun on low and use a pry tool to simply pry it straight up without touching the tabs. By softening the plastic, it should pop right off. Also spray the locking tabs with silicone spray.
this worked for me, just replaced without damaging cap. warmed engine during city ride 7km, then sprayed chain grease and pry. it popped after a while and new membrane made the engine work even on idle - I had no whistle symptoms, just some oil leaks and not even on idle and when releasing brake pedal. Now even gears are working better for some reason
Hello VolvoSweden, I used to follow your SX4 videos. My 08 SX4 finally gave up after compression loss in one cylinder. It was a fun car to work on until that point. I have now just bought a 2011 Volvo C30 T5, similar interior space to the SX4 but, of course, a totally different driving experience and I'm still struggling not to fall onto the pavement when I get out - it'll help to keep me agile. I've always enjoyed your helpful videos and there'll be similarities to help me maintain my C30. Thank you. 🙂
Great video, thanks. UA-cam really sucks now that it has more ads than commercial TV so all I use it for are these types of videos. I wish there was another way to watch them because they are so helpful.
Pro tip for all just replacing the cap. Put the spring and rubber part down first, then put the outer cap down on top of it (making sure you are centered and clearing). No reason to try to put down the full assembly as shown in the video.
You have top tier videos! I have saved myself hours of frustration by watching your videos! Thank you for sharing. You make servicing Volvos affordable for the average person.
If you install the new diaphragm with the engine on, it sucks the membrane into place and you don't pinch anything. I was fortunate enough to have received 2 extra on a parts order... Which I needed because using the method shown here I did pinch the diaphragm sealing seat on the first replacement.
@@SethPack my experience was that you place the spring and then the diaphragm in place, start the engine, and then push down to compress the spring and seat the diaphragm. The nice thing is that you will have a clear and unobstructed view to make sure that the diaphragm is seated properly on the lip of the oil trap because you the new cap is off to the side and not being used at this point. The vacuum will then hold the spring and diaphragm in place and you can take your time to then place the cap on separately and press it down until it snaps into place. My experience was that the fit of the plastic cap was tight and it was difficult to get it to seat. I used the handle of a plastic dead blow hammer to give it a firm tap to go into place.
@@georgeottinger8168 I also put a light amount of grease on the diagram cap to aid in future removal and to prevent any sort of hang ups when seating the cap. Although seems like you understood my original suggestion. Those caps like to break on removal and the kits with cap are over priced, just buy the diaphragm/bladder and know what you're working with.
Very helpful video! I ordered an aftermarket cap only on Amazon and replaced in less than 10 minutes! Resolved the small squealing that has been intermittent. Original had small slit of about 1”. Replacement of original at 213k miles on 2010 S80 3.2.
I just did my 2010 xc60. I changed the whole assembly myself that was 377$ plus tax 🇨🇦. My car is pushing 250k kilometres, still runs great. I thought that the one I replaced was the original but after seeing how to check the date stamp from your video, I discovered that it wasn’t the original. Whoever did the install, I found some of the bolts came off by hand, about a third we’re just sitting in the holes and the rest were reasonably in there. I think next time, I’m going to just replace the membrane. The vehicle will be old enough and the thought of spending that kind of coin again, doesn’t appeal to me. Good job on the video guys! 😎👍 If you can leave a link where to purchase the membrane. I assume you were able to acquire a new cap with that as well.
Yuri I just finished replacing mine. May I add to place a rag behind the engine wall in case you drop a bolt. The bolt under the intake pipe is the hardest of all. Thanks
This failed while I was on an out of town trip. I had the loud squealing sound. I made it to a Volvo dealer on a Friday afternoon. Volvo recommends this service at 100 thousand miles, I did not know this and I had regular service and it was not done. A five hundred dollar repair. Volvo 2008V70, 140,000 miles. I have always used the Castro Oil that Volvo recommended. I have been using Mobil full synthetic every 7500 miles for a long time.
I replaced just the membrane, fixed the problem. Of course I misdiagnosed it and replaced serpentine belt, tensioner, alternator pulley and finally removed the alternator to test if it was the sqeeling thing. UA-cam decided to show me this video AFTER I fixed it 😂
I did this job last year. The oil trap was filled up with sludges. It worth opening up whole trap cover and cleaning up one hole in the middle and two openings on the side. Yuri normally clean up all parts. This time I notice he did not clean up the oil trap before putting the cover back on.
Great video thanks. My 2008 Volvo XC90 150k kms has increased vacuum pull from oil filler cap / dip stick. A lot of videos say that positive pressure i.e. the glove test is a sign of a bad PCV which confused me. I'll go with your diagnosis! My car also makes a funny mooing sound from the diaphragm every few seconds rather than the banshee scream plus has increased oil consumotion so hopefully this helps. I have ordered the new PCV so look forward to having a happier Volvo 😊
@@kenmaina6179 Same. For me the ports/holes in the cover were clogged! Really think with the turbo engines, it's best to replace the whole cover. I know it can be big money and effort but it's hard to sleep if you're not sure the ports are all clear and replacing just the membrane might not be enough. I suppose you can replace just he membrane/cap and then see if things are better. Worst case is then you have to pull the whole cap and clean things out, but you will have a new membrane! :)
Diaphragm only replaced and found out it was torn on 1 inch on the side. I put the old spring down around the hole first and the remaining parts right on top of it using a small hammer. I had to break 3 tabs to remove the top. Yes, it is 9 times cheaper than the whole unit and guaranteed for life at FCP Euro!
@@georgehofgren6123 certainly do, a common fault with the ones in the T6 and 3.2 is that the internal plastic housing becomes brittle. I replaced mine in my 2009 XC70 last year at 45,000kms and the internal housing fell apart when I removed it.
Mine thermostat was damage for long time. Nobody figuring out what was wrong wit it. Symptoms was Cat codes and fuel mileage. The problem is that we don't have engine temp at dashboard.
This is a great video, thank you. Saves me a trip to the dealership. Do you have an O2 Sensor replacement (searched but didn't see it), or is that even something that can be done in the garage? Trying to remedy a P0420 error while the CEL is on. Thanks again.
Is there less or NO oil filler neck vacuum following successful repair? No whistle from the escape hole, but replaced the membrane which was torn. There is less vacuum on the oil filler neck, but there is still some. Engine sounds different when oil filler cap is removed vs on. Wondering if there is more wrong within the PCV cover assembly (blocked port?) 107k mile T6.
I love you Guy's 😊❤ I change serpentine belt and pulley. And I keep having that noise ' ! Staff AutoZone guys Tell me the parts and checking and they said 100% . belt and tensioner with pulley . 😅 I keep having la issues " . The noise never go ' . And I keep having the check engine light on " 😣 Check engine light say my car will explode like a boom 💥 🤯 in any moment 😫 It is not surprised because very often the guys is staff. 🙆 Make me buy wrong parts " . 🤦 😂🤣 💯👍👌 I hope my car passed ' check smoke"🙆
Hello, i replaced the whole unit. Before there was no vacuum pull on the cap but know a little. And the pcv valve makes funny noises and blows air… is this a bad valve?
I've got this issue at the moment, the replacement valve which I bought on ebay doesn't seal and the car is still drawing air via the dipstick/oil filler, any suggestions, I'm worried that if I buy another cheap valve it will have the same problem, any sources of reliable valves?
I bought a cheap Chinese copy of the membrane kit off of eBay because I couldn't find an OEM kit anywhere. The replacement orange membrane worked fine, but the outer housing wouldn't fit. I ended up using the original OEM outer because, even though 4 out of the 6 tab loops broke during the removal process, it was still a more secure fit than the cheap copy!
Hi there. I just had to do the same exact thing. I bought a replacement Dorman part from amazon. The little rubber piece that failed fits on fine with the spring, but the replacement plastic cap does not snap into place. I had to use the original Volvo cap which has 3 out of the 6 snap holder tabs broken off and I'm concerned the cap is going to blow off when I'm driving. Did your cap stay on even though some of the plastic snap holder pieces had be broken off? How long did you keep the original cap on for? thank you
Great Video, I just bought an 11 XC60 with the 3.2 non turbo. It has this issue but is also low power and does not seem to be shifting properly. I am guessing this issue is is not the only issue? What do you think?
so should we replace the whole PCV oil trap valve cover, or just the diaphragm? I was going to just replaced the diaphragm but noticed at the end you said should replaced the whole unit.
Honestly, if you have like 100k miles on it, I'd replace the whole cover and clean as much as possible out. Perhaps a good schedule is every 50k for the cap and next 50k do the full cover?
Do you have a video of open door and over head dome light on when actually the door is shut repair video. I’m having that issue with my 08 S80 T6. Thank you. Gary in Texas
Probably one of the micro switches in the door lock is malfunctioning . Can you lock the car using the remote or the car thinks the door is open when it’s actually shut?
Quick question....I heard air from pcv and squeaking. Changed pcv diaphragm but still getting misfire in #2 cylinder. Could I need to replace whole assembly if still has vacuum from oil cap? I was hoping the cheaper fix would solve misfire issue but seems not. After pcv diaphragm change it ran fine for days before first misfire. Also never misfires when cold. Only when engine warms up! Please help!
Dorman cap wouldn't lock into place without filing a little material off the bottom edge of the slots like @michaelb8957 mentions elsewhere in the comments. Even so, it still took a lot of force (I had to tap more than lightly with a hammer and rag to protect the cap) to make a secure fit-maybe I should have filed some more. Seat the rear tabs first, then work your way around the three on the front.
добрый вечер, братан You nailed it on the job Yuri, hats off !! Without exaggerating you were one of the reasons i wanted to go P2 with my dream SUV and got a 2013 XC90 R-DESIGN 3.2. ive been always a 5cyl lad but i did enjoy a 1999 S90 2.9 NA . I never mess around with the pcv on these ! Stupid question if i may Yuri ? Could you add a catch can within the diagram ? It would help the pcv breathe better and backs it on holding most of sludge. Done it on all p80s i owned so thats why im referring to you on this one !! Keep it up with the great work sir 🫡🫡🫡🫡
Alternatively you could replace the valve cover assembly gasket - Volvo PN 30757223 or FCP Euro PN 30757223 (i believe, best to call your dealer and confirm) - as this is the wear part of the assembly. $11 vs $280. Also, lol at "this is a volvo part from sweden" - *says FoMoCO on the front* I'm glad the engine cover hides those FoMoCos. Thanks for the vids! I've just ordered a membrane cap!
Thank you ever so much, I will change mine out be fore our trip. You both have been a blessing. But I have 1 request, I have downloaded d5td volvo dice and I can't get it to work on my windows 10 laptop. I can't figure out why my parking sensor wok so intermittently. I have 2010 xc70 3.2. I love this car. It isn't the fastest but I love shifting it and playing on the beach sand with it. 201,300 miles and strong as an ox. Always do the service or maintenance to her. Thanks from Florida.
I have xc90 2011 , engine light on , when i erase the fault by the scanner the fault will comeback after driving almost 100km “p0420” , normally while engine running on idle no any sound come from pcv cap , i tried to check as you did in your video by loosing the oil filling cup i heard a noise coming from the pcv diaphragm cup when i tight the oil filling cup the noise is gone , is it mean that the diaphragm is damaged or that normal cause i loose the oil filling cup? Shall i go for the diaphragm? Thanks
So I did just the diaphragm on mine, and my diaphragm was not damaged. I have 137k miles on my car, with the original PCV valve cover, so I am hoping this is preventable maintenance now. I will say the original pcv valve diaphragm is made by Volvo, or is at least stamped by them. I replaced it with a Doorman that has a lifetime warranty on it. Hoping I don’t have to use it.
@@volvosweden June something 2014. I did want to ask you about the Volvo subwoofer you installed on your XC70. Do you know if I have the Harmin Kardon sound system I can add this sub to my car?
I'm a fairly experienced mechanic though my career no longer is doing it for a living. I'm getting ready to change the assembly as you did on the XC70, on my wife's 2010 non-turbo XC70. My main concern is what you used to remove the 5 T-30 on the back side. I'm planning on a 1/4" ratchet with short extension to T-30 either over the top, or from the sides, reaching behind. Is this how you did it, or is there a better way? Thankfully I don't have gorilla hands lol...
I used this stack up: T30, short extension, universal joint, long extension, and a ¼ ratchet. I put the 2 hard to reach screws in the cover before placing it back on the engine.
Ive owned a few Volvo’s with a different engine, but I always managed to inspect the membrane every 50/60000km. Once i had to replace it due to a starting tear, without indications of a bad membrane. So my opinion, invest a few €/$/£ and replace the membrane. But again, my opinion. If you don’t have the p/n for your engine, ask someone to look it up in vida
Same here, it had a screeching sound that could easily be mistaken as an accessory belt idler / tensioner failing. But the screech quiets when you open the oil cap -- that's the way to pin it down as PCV membrane ruptured.
Yeah, mine broke when putting on the new PCV trap. About a year later, I went through my A/C system and took apart the cowl and false firewall to get at the TXV valve and flush the evaporator. While I had it apart, I put in a new charge pipe while I had more room for my hands back there.
For me, only replacing the membrane did NOT fix the problem. I decided to fit the original Volvo complete assembly. After fitting it…no more problems!!! Cost me 170€ ex 21 % VAT at my dealer in Holland. For the T6 engine.
Although I appreciate these helpfull video's, this one I wish I didn't watch. I took his advise and decided to change the pvc diaphragm so I bought an aftermarket kit. My S80 3.2 has 120k mi and runs perfect. In order to remove the cap you must break the old one as shown in the video. I was able to remove the original without a problem however the replacement made by Dorman did not fit despite being told it will buy a few different websites. I ordered mine from Amazon for $28. The cover cap would not go down far enough to snap in place, so since I couldn't put the old one back on I had to improvise by filing down the open slots so it would finally snap down and lock in place. I thought the problem was resolved but after starting the car the diaphram made a gasping sound that didn't go away after a short drive. So I had to gently remove the cap and put the original diaphragm back in and now its fine. By the way the original was in perfect condition despite the high mileage. So I wasted time and money for nothing. I also found out that you cannot buy the cap and diaphragm from Volvo you have to purchase the entire cover at $266 as seen in the video. So I really regret changing this based on this video trying to do preventive care, so my advise is if your Volvo was always serviced properly at the correct oil change intervals then leave it alone.
It will go out when you least expect it. Mine went out at 145,000 MILES. I found out Volvo recommends it be changed at 100,000 miles. This is not in the book but dealers have been told. I don't have a dealer shop close to me. Luckily, where I broke down, there was a dealer open to fix it and I was very nearby. There are other videos with different part numbers. Mine has no turbo.
I looked up the part on RockAuto and replaced it for $52 back in July. The part number was SK121262 for my 3.2 2008 XC70. Since then, I've driven it across the states on a 2300 mile road trip and daily it with no issues. It was an aftermarket part, I think the warranty was 12mo.
@@s82452 I wan to buy that part, but I don't know if it's come with diaphragm and gasket. Please tel me did you receive that part with gasket and diaphragm
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video, For anyone following the swapping the pcv method (not the whole oil trap assembly), a trick to help installation is to push the membrane into the cap as far as you can and put a piece of electrical tape of the vent hole to hold the membrane in place and keep it from falling out during installation. Once installed remove the tape.
Perfect! Thx to you
Thank you for creating an amazing catalog of repair videos for these cars. I’ve used them for my repairs/maintenance more than once! 😊
Thanks for your videos - I have followed several of them to fix my 2011 S60 T6 AWD. My problem manifested itself as a P0171 code with the fuel trims at idle as high as +50 for both the ST and LT trims. I did observe the vacuum in the crankcase as shown in the video. I did not have the squealing and other issues described. My replacement from RockAuto still had a problem, which I diagnosed by using a DIY smoke machine. I finally bought the Dorman 917-147 PCV Valve Diaphragm from Autozone based on @OhWell advice below and fixed my problem. Also, per @a kamstra , I started the car and let the vacuum suck down the diaphragm into place and hold it while I put on the cap - it works very well.
I’ve changed this part one my 2007 XC90, it wasn’t creating the vacuum such as this, but, my oil consumption increased significantly. Which I found can also be a symptom. After replacement the oil consumption returned to normal. I always enjoy your videos. I’ve learned a lot and actually made a couple of repairs after watching your video!!!
what is normal oil consumption for this engine?
This is why I did it. I also switched to a high mileage oil. Hopefully makes a difference. The different oil that I’m using seems to have added an extra 1500 miles between consumption. It used to do a court every 3500 miles now it’s at 5000.
Hello, thank you for your informative videos.
I just replaced the PCV valve on my 2010 XC60 Volvo. For those who are replacing the valve for the first time, note should be made that the new valve needs to be oriented in a specific way. I haven't checked, but in all likelihood, the rectangular perforations fit only one way, but I just guided myself by the Volvo lettering on the original. The semi delta depression on the valve cap should point towards the firewall at about 11 o'clock.
Get the cap really warm or almost hot by using a hairdryer on high or a heat gun on low and use a pry tool to simply pry it straight up without touching the tabs. By softening the plastic, it should pop right off. Also spray the locking tabs with silicone spray.
this worked for me, just replaced without damaging cap. warmed engine during city ride 7km, then sprayed chain grease and pry. it popped after a while and new membrane made the engine work even on idle - I had no whistle symptoms, just some oil leaks and not even on idle and when releasing brake pedal. Now even gears are working better for some reason
Hello VolvoSweden, I used to follow your SX4 videos. My 08 SX4 finally gave up after compression loss in one cylinder. It was a fun car to work on until that point. I have now just bought a 2011 Volvo C30 T5, similar interior space to the SX4 but, of course, a totally different driving experience and I'm still struggling not to fall onto the pavement when I get out - it'll help to keep me agile. I've always enjoyed your helpful videos and there'll be similarities to help me maintain my C30. Thank you. 🙂
Great video, thanks. UA-cam really sucks now that it has more ads than commercial TV so all I use it for are these types of videos. I wish there was another way to watch them because they are so helpful.
Plenty of Adblockers out there. I view through Cleantube
Pro tip for all just replacing the cap.
Put the spring and rubber part down first, then put the outer cap down on top of it (making sure you are centered and clearing). No reason to try to put down the full assembly as shown in the video.
You have top tier videos! I have saved myself hours of frustration by watching your videos! Thank you for sharing. You make servicing Volvos affordable for the average person.
If you install the new diaphragm with the engine on, it sucks the membrane into place and you don't pinch anything. I was fortunate enough to have received 2 extra on a parts order... Which I needed because using the method shown here I did pinch the diaphragm sealing seat on the first replacement.
That’s a great Tip! Thx so much
This suggestion worked great for me. The new diaphragm was sucked down into place and held there until I got the cap on. Thanks!
So are you saying to just rest the diaphragm and cap on top, start the engine, and then push the cap down?
@@SethPack my experience was that you place the spring and then the diaphragm in place, start the engine, and then push down to compress the spring and seat the diaphragm. The nice thing is that you will have a clear and unobstructed view to make sure that the diaphragm is seated properly on the lip of the oil trap because you the new cap is off to the side and not being used at this point. The vacuum will then hold the spring and diaphragm in place and you can take your time to then place the cap on separately and press it down until it snaps into place. My experience was that the fit of the plastic cap was tight and it was difficult to get it to seat. I used the handle of a plastic dead blow hammer to give it a firm tap to go into place.
@@georgeottinger8168 I also put a light amount of grease on the diagram cap to aid in future removal and to prevent any sort of hang ups when seating the cap. Although seems like you understood my original suggestion. Those caps like to break on removal and the kits with cap are over priced, just buy the diaphragm/bladder and know what you're working with.
Very helpful video! I ordered an aftermarket cap only on Amazon and replaced in less than 10 minutes! Resolved the small squealing that has been intermittent. Original had small slit of about 1”. Replacement of original at 213k miles on 2010 S80 3.2.
2 videos in 1 week, keep up with the great work!
I will try to make more frequent videos. Thx for noticing.
@@volvosweden The videos are really informative! Change of the waterpump would be a good thing to show if possible.
Hi. This will be next video. I have already done this and matter of making the video. Keep an eye on the channel.
I just did my 2010 xc60. I changed the whole assembly myself that was 377$ plus tax 🇨🇦. My car is pushing 250k kilometres, still runs great. I thought that the one I replaced was the original but after seeing how to check the date stamp from your video, I discovered that it wasn’t the original. Whoever did the install, I found some of the bolts came off by hand, about a third we’re just sitting in the holes and the rest were reasonably in there. I think next time, I’m going to just replace the membrane. The vehicle will be old enough and the thought of spending that kind of coin again, doesn’t appeal to me. Good job on the video guys! 😎👍 If you can leave a link where to purchase the membrane. I assume you were able to acquire a new cap with that as well.
As per usual, clear, consise and very informative videos on Volvos. Great work!!
Great video again Yuri. Many thanks for showing us the proper way.
Yuri I just finished replacing mine. May I add to place a rag behind the engine wall in case you drop a bolt. The bolt under the intake pipe is the hardest of all. Thanks
2:32 that squeaky sound, what is it? where does this sound come from? i have same sound problem... and dont know what should i replace
This failed while I was on an out of town trip. I had the loud squealing sound. I made it to a Volvo dealer on a Friday afternoon. Volvo recommends this service at 100 thousand miles, I did not know this and I had regular service and it was not done. A five hundred dollar repair. Volvo 2008V70, 140,000 miles. I have always used the Castro Oil that Volvo recommended. I have been using Mobil full synthetic every 7500 miles for a long time.
I replaced just the membrane, fixed the problem. Of course I misdiagnosed it and replaced serpentine belt, tensioner, alternator pulley and finally removed the alternator to test if it was the sqeeling thing. UA-cam decided to show me this video AFTER I fixed it 😂
I did this job last year. The oil trap was filled up with sludges. It worth opening up whole trap cover and cleaning up one hole in the middle and two openings on the side. Yuri normally clean up all parts. This time I notice he did not clean up the oil trap before putting the cover back on.
I did not clean. But the openings were not even close to be clogged so I decided not to.
Great video thanks. My 2008 Volvo XC90 150k kms has increased vacuum pull from oil filler cap / dip stick. A lot of videos say that positive pressure i.e. the glove test is a sign of a bad PCV which confused me. I'll go with your diagnosis! My car also makes a funny mooing sound from the diaphragm every few seconds rather than the banshee scream plus has increased oil consumotion so hopefully this helps. I have ordered the new PCV so look forward to having a happier Volvo 😊
Did you manage to eliminate the mooing sound? I have the same problem. Changing the PCV didn't help.
@@kenmaina6179new PCV fixed mine, sorted all those issues I mentioned. Good luck getting to the bottom of your moo!
@@kenmaina6179 Same. For me the ports/holes in the cover were clogged! Really think with the turbo engines, it's best to replace the whole cover. I know it can be big money and effort but it's hard to sleep if you're not sure the ports are all clear and replacing just the membrane might not be enough. I suppose you can replace just he membrane/cap and then see if things are better. Worst case is then you have to pull the whole cap and clean things out, but you will have a new membrane! :)
I dont have this engine but its Always fun and interesting to see your videos! Thanks from sweden
Thx and Hi to Sweden
hey, is the pcv cap (only the small part) the same on the 3.2 and the 3.0? i have a s60 t6 2011 with the same problem.
Thank you! Your videos are always excellent!
Fantastic!!! Thank you from
America.
Diaphragm only replaced and found out it was torn on 1 inch on the side. I put the old spring down around the hole first and the remaining parts right on top of it using a small hammer. I had to break 3 tabs to remove the top. Yes, it is 9 times cheaper than the whole unit and guaranteed for life at FCP Euro!
I replace the membrane and its now giving me a weird noice like its lettting air Through, any ideas how to place it correctly?
Very important to replace the Thermostat and the housing too.
Really? Does the thermostat wear out??
@@georgehofgren6123 certainly do, a common fault with the ones in the T6 and 3.2 is that the internal plastic housing becomes brittle. I replaced mine in my 2009 XC70 last year at 45,000kms and the internal housing fell apart when I removed it.
Mine thermostat was damage for long time. Nobody figuring out what was wrong wit it. Symptoms was Cat codes and fuel mileage. The problem is that we don't have engine temp at dashboard.
@@minazuma9289 honestly don’t know why the Thermostat isn’t replaced automatically at 100,000kms atleast minimum.
Where is the thermostat you are talking about? I don’t think it was mentioned in this video.
This is a great video, thank you. Saves me a trip to the dealership. Do you have an O2 Sensor replacement (searched but didn't see it), or is that even something that can be done in the garage? Trying to remedy a P0420 error while the CEL is on. Thanks again.
Is there less or NO oil filler neck vacuum following successful repair? No whistle from the escape hole, but replaced the membrane which was torn. There is less vacuum on the oil filler neck, but there is still some. Engine sounds different when oil filler cap is removed vs on. Wondering if there is more wrong within the PCV cover assembly (blocked port?) 107k mile T6.
I love you Guy's 😊❤
I change serpentine belt and pulley. And I keep having that noise ' !
Staff AutoZone guys Tell me the parts and checking and they said 100% . belt and tensioner with pulley . 😅
I keep having la issues " . The noise never go ' .
And I keep having the check engine light on " 😣
Check engine light say my car will explode like a boom 💥 🤯 in any moment 😫
It is not surprised because very often the guys is staff. 🙆
Make me buy wrong parts " . 🤦
😂🤣
💯👍👌
I hope my car passed ' check smoke"🙆
Hello, i replaced the whole unit. Before there was no vacuum pull on the cap but know a little. And the pcv valve makes funny noises and blows air… is this a bad valve?
I noticed the diaphragm is a Land Rover part number. Is this the same part for the 2.2 diesel engine 2007-2010 Freelander 2?
I've got this issue at the moment, the replacement valve which I bought on ebay doesn't seal and the car is still drawing air via the dipstick/oil filler, any suggestions, I'm worried that if I buy another cheap valve it will have the same problem, any sources of reliable valves?
Did you get a check engine light? If it did what were the codes?
From light bulbs to pcv breather, volvo after 2010 are so much easier to work on... Let me go cry in the corner (S60 2006) :')
I bought a cheap Chinese copy of the membrane kit off of eBay because I couldn't find an OEM kit anywhere. The replacement orange membrane worked fine, but the outer housing wouldn't fit. I ended up using the original OEM outer because, even though 4 out of the 6 tab loops broke during the removal process, it was still a more secure fit than the cheap copy!
Hi there. I just had to do the same exact thing. I bought a replacement Dorman part from amazon. The little rubber piece that failed fits on fine with the spring, but the replacement plastic cap does not snap into place. I had to use the original Volvo cap which has 3 out of the 6 snap holder tabs broken off and I'm concerned the cap is going to blow off when I'm driving. Did your cap stay on even though some of the plastic snap holder pieces had be broken off? How long did you keep the original cap on for? thank you
It stayed on ok. I sold the car not too long after so i cant say how long itll last
Thanks for talking Russian (slowly) in the background. It helps keep that language alive for me.
Is a lean burn condition something that can be caused by this?
Hey, where can i get the valve and the small cover? Can’t Seem to find it anywhere
Can you buy the membrane and cap together? And where did you buy the part.
Great Video, I just bought an 11 XC60 with the 3.2 non turbo. It has this issue but is also low power and does not seem to be shifting properly. I am guessing this issue is is not the only issue? What do you think?
Is it bad to drive with vacuum for about 2000km more? But I don't know since when it is clogged...
Thanks!
I love your videos! Thanks a million!
so should we replace the whole PCV oil trap valve cover, or just the diaphragm? I was going to just replaced the diaphragm but noticed at the end you said should replaced the whole unit.
Honestly, if you have like 100k miles on it, I'd replace the whole cover and clean as much as possible out. Perhaps a good schedule is every 50k for the cap and next 50k do the full cover?
Do you have a video of open door and over head dome light on when actually the door is shut repair video. I’m having that issue with my 08 S80 T6. Thank you. Gary in Texas
Probably one of the micro switches in the door lock is malfunctioning . Can you lock the car using the remote or the car thinks the door is open when it’s actually shut?
Quick question....I heard air from pcv and squeaking. Changed pcv diaphragm but still getting misfire in #2 cylinder. Could I need to replace whole assembly if still has vacuum from oil cap? I was hoping the cheaper fix would solve misfire issue but seems not. After pcv diaphragm change it ran fine for days before first misfire. Also never misfires when cold. Only when engine warms up! Please help!
You have to read codes. PCV issues will not cause misfiring.
It said misfire #2 cylinder generic code p0302
@JeremiahL1616 Then swap the coils and see if another cylinder will act up.
I did and it finally followed. Found 2 bad plugs and 2 bad coils. All seems well now!@@volvosweden
What if you have oil on the Spark Plug cylinder ..
Dorman cap wouldn't lock into place without filing a little material off the bottom edge of the slots like @michaelb8957 mentions elsewhere in the comments. Even so, it still took a lot of force (I had to tap more than lightly with a hammer and rag to protect the cap) to make a secure fit-maybe I should have filed some more. Seat the rear tabs first, then work your way around the three on the front.
what did you use to shave and where did you shave? I bought the Dorman replacement and I can't get the damn cap back on.
Great video again👍
добрый вечер, братан
You nailed it on the job Yuri, hats off !!
Without exaggerating you were one of the reasons i wanted to go P2 with my dream SUV and got a 2013 XC90 R-DESIGN 3.2. ive been always a 5cyl lad but i did enjoy a 1999 S90 2.9 NA . I never mess around with the pcv on these ! Stupid question if i may Yuri ? Could you add a catch can within the diagram ? It would help the pcv breathe better and backs it on holding most of sludge. Done it on all p80s i owned so thats why im referring to you on this one !!
Keep it up with the great work sir 🫡🫡🫡🫡
Hey! Thx. Never seen a catch can on these straight 6 engine
Alternatively you could replace the valve cover assembly gasket - Volvo PN 30757223 or FCP Euro PN 30757223 (i believe, best to call your dealer and confirm) - as this is the wear part of the assembly. $11 vs $280.
Also, lol at "this is a volvo part from sweden" - *says FoMoCO on the front*
I'm glad the engine cover hides those FoMoCos.
Thanks for the vids! I've just ordered a membrane cap!
Thank you ever so much, I will change mine out be fore our trip. You both have been a blessing. But I have 1 request, I have downloaded d5td volvo dice and I can't get it to work on my windows 10 laptop. I can't figure out why my parking sensor wok so intermittently. I have 2010 xc70 3.2. I love this car. It isn't the fastest but I love shifting it and playing on the beach sand with it. 201,300 miles and strong as an ox. Always do the service or maintenance to her. Thanks from Florida.
Does every year need it own valve or do they all take the same one ? I have a s80 2008
Same!
What about the lower one next to the Oil Filter Housing?????
Same concept
Se aprende gracias por compartir sus conocimientos. Podria crear uno para cambio de radiador xc60 2010
I have xc90 2011 , engine light on , when i erase the fault by the scanner the fault will comeback after driving almost 100km “p0420” , normally while engine running on idle no any sound come from pcv cap , i tried to check as you did in your video by loosing the oil filling cup i heard a noise coming from the pcv diaphragm cup when i tight the oil filling cup the noise is gone , is it mean that the diaphragm is damaged or that normal cause i loose the oil filling cup?
Shall i go for the diaphragm? Thanks
For that error, I think you have a catalyst converter failure
So I did just the diaphragm on mine, and my diaphragm was not damaged. I have 137k miles on my car, with the original PCV valve cover, so I am hoping this is preventable maintenance now. I will say the original pcv valve diaphragm is made by Volvo, or is at least stamped by them. I replaced it with a Doorman that has a lifetime warranty on it. Hoping I don’t have to use it.
What is the year stamp in the cover? Weird it lasted that long…
@@volvosweden June something 2014. I did want to ask you about the Volvo subwoofer you installed on your XC70. Do you know if I have the Harmin Kardon sound system I can add this sub to my car?
So helpful!!! Thank you!
Nice, I did my wife’s today. 2014 S60 T6. 120,000 mi
I'm a fairly experienced mechanic though my career no longer is doing it for a living. I'm getting ready to change the assembly as you did on the XC70, on my wife's 2010 non-turbo XC70. My main concern is what you used to remove the 5 T-30 on the back side. I'm planning on a 1/4" ratchet with short extension to T-30 either over the top, or from the sides, reaching behind. Is this how you did it, or is there a better way? Thankfully I don't have gorilla hands lol...
I used this stack up: T30, short extension, universal joint, long extension, and a ¼ ratchet. I put the 2 hard to reach screws in the cover before placing it back on the engine.
I've got a S60 T6 from 2015/2016 with 75000 km, do you think it's time to change? No indications yet of a bad pcv system
Ive owned a few Volvo’s with a different engine, but I always managed to inspect the membrane every 50/60000km. Once i had to replace it due to a starting tear, without indications of a bad membrane. So my opinion, invest a few €/$/£ and replace the membrane. But again, my opinion. If you don’t have the p/n for your engine, ask someone to look it up in vida
Not yet. But I would order it and have it on hand.
Very useful, thanks.
Thanks volvosweden😊
If you remove that cap, using headlight fix pin :)
Thank you for video 🙏♥️♥️
Did you see any engine codes when the valve failed?
mine didn't show any, but symptoms where there
I had a check engine light for running too lean.
@@edijares1543 I have P0171 check engine. I heard that membrane of 3.2 engine fit for 3.0 t6. Tommorow i order it.
@@WojtekCBRF No it's not identical. I ordered one for my 3.2 liter engine and it's not the same. It surely fixed my check engine light.
@@edijares1543 I got membrane from 3.2 engine and IT fit for S60 3.0t6 304km 2013. Diameter about 65mm.
What a white ‘dust’ on both engines! My Volvo 2009, 255000 km does not have that, is it the cold, the salt used on the roads?
Yes, salt from snowy road corrodes the aluminum -- it's aluminum oxide.
The diaphragm went out on my XC70 and the thing was SCREAMING as it went down the road lol.
Never heard anything like it.
Same here, it had a screeching sound that could easily be mistaken as an accessory belt idler / tensioner failing. But the screech quiets when you open the oil cap -- that's the way to pin it down as PCV membrane ruptured.
Подскажите, плиз, на катком сайте в Канаде лучше заказать мембрану, заранее спасибо
Aliexpress
3.2 and 3.0 have diftrent part number, and doesnt fit. Remeber that.
I hate dealing with those charge pipe brackets soo much. Almost impossible not to break them
I know. That’s why I left them alone. No point fixing.
Yeah, mine broke when putting on the new PCV trap. About a year later, I went through my A/C system and took apart the cowl and false firewall to get at the TXV valve and flush the evaporator. While I had it apart, I put in a new charge pipe while I had more room for my hands back there.
For me, only replacing the membrane did NOT fix the problem. I decided to fit the original Volvo complete assembly. After fitting it…no more problems!!! Cost me 170€ ex 21 % VAT at my dealer in Holland. For the T6 engine.
That's interesting! Maybe defective membrane or pinched on install? Not accusing, just possible/common.
Although I appreciate these helpfull video's, this one I wish I didn't watch. I took his advise and decided to change the pvc diaphragm so I bought an aftermarket kit. My S80 3.2 has 120k mi and runs perfect. In order to remove the cap you must break the old one as shown in the video. I was able to remove the original without a problem however the replacement made by Dorman did not fit despite being told it will buy a few different websites. I ordered mine from Amazon for $28. The cover cap would not go down far enough to snap in place, so since I couldn't put the old one back on I had to improvise by filing down the open slots so it would finally snap down and lock in place. I thought the problem was resolved but after starting the car the diaphram made a gasping sound that didn't go away after a short drive. So I had to gently remove the cap and put the original diaphragm back in and now its fine. By the way the original was in perfect condition despite the high mileage. So I wasted time and money for nothing. I also found out that you cannot buy the cap and diaphragm from Volvo you have to purchase the entire cover at $266 as seen in the video. So I really regret changing this based on this video trying to do preventive care, so my advise is if your Volvo was always serviced properly at the correct oil change intervals then leave it alone.
It will go out when you least expect it. Mine went out at 145,000 MILES. I found out Volvo recommends it be changed at 100,000 miles. This is not in the book but dealers have been told. I don't have a dealer shop close to me. Luckily, where I broke down, there was a dealer open to fix it and I was very nearby. There are other videos with different part numbers. Mine has no turbo.
I looked up the part on RockAuto and replaced it for $52 back in July. The part number was SK121262 for my 3.2 2008 XC70. Since then, I've driven it across the states on a 2300 mile road trip and daily it with no issues. It was an aftermarket part, I think the warranty was 12mo.
@@s82452 I wan to buy that part, but I don't know if it's come with diaphragm and gasket. Please tel me did you receive that part with gasket and diaphragm
Видео на Русском ua-cam.com/video/mJTor4viOh4/v-deo.html
☺️ pr໐๓໐Ş๓
Your engine doesn’t sound very healthy
Why don't you heat up a small screwdriver flat and cut this section of the cap?
Or melt the plastic band below the tab using a small soldering iron, careful not to melt the tab.