Same here. I did everything on this list to my GD STI, but I will never, ever, ever go ELH. I bought Tomei's UELs to slap on once I save up more for Grimmspeeds up and downpipes, but I will never give up that rumble. Block be damned I'll build 10 more before that.
I've done hours of research, learning everything possible to add reliability to my track/street car. You've hit the mark on this one on every point. Oil and cooling are really the highlights. Don't forget a nice smooth tune and some one step colder plugs too ;)
Equal Length Headers + Cyl 4 Cooling Mod are a huge part of equalizing EGT across all cylinders. The Subaru EJ Knock Control System is strictly bias to Cylinder 4, as it runs 1.5 degrees of timing over over all cylinders. Essentially, Subaru's thought process is "If Cyl 4 isn't knocking, we're good." Timing is everything. It's how power is made. ELH and Cylinder 4 both contribute to a safe increase in timing, although Octane is the major contributor.
Tanner dude I remember when this vid came out right when I bought my STi. You were my biggest resource leading up to and after buying it. Congrats on the success so far and I can’t wait to see you make it to the top!
I’ve watched this video a few years ago and I’ve installed Perrin AOS, cylinder 4 mod, Killer B oil pan +tube +tray plus other reliable mods. Still stock headers though😂 but this video helped me out then and after owning my 07 Hawkeye for three years, and still going, is still running smooth even after several Road trips from Washington state all the way down to Florida👌🏾
You put out great content man! Always like when people discuss the technicals of these cars, and not just talking about their downpipe and catback for the hundredth time. Keep it up!
Just got my first subie. 2017 sti and all the info in these videos has been really helpful. Never done anything with a tuner. Was always a one carburetor is good let's get two guy. Getting my car as far as i can without swapping the rotating assembly. This is invaluable. Thanks so much.
Just earlier was trying to find some information on the forums about reliability mods. And then here it is in one video. Love the content man 👍 very informative
By the Killer B Holy Header with there ceramic coating and buy a ceramic coated downpipe if you can. A downpipe with two ports so you can run a wideband sensor. You will be so happy you did in the future. Killer B’s most current design with the one piece collector sounds damn good.
I'm running IAG Oil components and I haven't noticed any issues with it. My local speed shop recommends them on all their Subie builds. They are the ones that did my IAG stage 2 shortblock too!
Ever since I got the Cobb anxiety port about month ago. I have the common side effect of anxiety and paranoia now. just seeing how much knock feeb back I get. 1.40 2.40 3.00 5.00 7.00 now hit a new record 8.00! These numbers just pop up driving normal at random times and if I drive it hard too on my 2017 bone stock STi 🙃🙃 Did some research didn’t help me to well so many different opinions. But i do find it funny your timing on certain videos topic you make are on par with things I’m planing on doing or have concerns about at the moment.
Got this AOS mounted, thanks for the tips! This install wasn't terrible, but def requires your patience. The mount is great because it didn't interfere with my strut bar at all. If it hasn't been said already, def keep a magnet close by, and grab a friend during the AOS mounting (most challenging part in my opinion). Other than that, everything is tight and works like a champ. Thanks again on the video!
This is a great video no one ever explains or suggest these parts at least not as much as you and all in one vid!!!! Good job hopefully some of these guys take this into consideration 👍🤛
Hey thanks for this video! I have a 2010 WRX with 124,xxx KM on it. engine started knocking the other day. I will be installing AOS, Oil kit and radiator at the same time I get my engine fixed.
@@Smeedia just thought I'd update here. so main bearing was the issue for me, I went deep, but happy about it tbh lol I put the deposit on parts with the local Subaru specialist in my city. so main bearing was the issue in the old short block. Got IAG Stage 2 Tuff short block IAG AOS Killer B oil pickup and Oil baffle 4th cylinder cooling mod and everything else that comes with the build like good head gaskets, better head studs, etc. probably change to Poly engine mounts too. And since I'm doing all that as well, I'm also looking at a refurbished turbo from a shop in Ottawa.
6th Gen Celica... It's a great reliable car I've been using for 28 years to date and thankfully didn't give me any downtime other than the usual wear & tear maintenance 👍 My 18 years old Impreza WRX on the other hand, has regularly been in & out of the workshops with various repairs + the usual wear and tear despite myself keeping her completely stock 😅... Just proves what you highlighted in your video is exactly spot on and if undertaken, will make our Impreza WRX/STi more reliable for long term ownership 👍 👏... If only a video like yours were available 10 plus years ago, many Impreza owners in similar situation as me would perhaps be able to save $$$ of unnecessary repairs 🤲... Nevertheless I'm thankful that you've made this video now... Better late than never 👏 Cheers 🍻
I have always loved the WRX/STi platform, and last year finally got my hands on a stock '08 WRX for $4k expecting to have to do a rebuild (random cylinder misfire). I pulled the engine and heads and the cylinder bores look great for 135k miles, so I think it just needs some head work. With the remaining budget for the car, I'm able to modify it just how I want it. So thank you for helping me build my Suby to endure some spirited driving through the mountains of California!
Just picked up a used 2020 WRX and I’ve been going crazy researching reliability as I do know Subarus has a bad reputation in terms of blown engine. I stumbled on your channel and honestly I feel like all my worries is put at rest. I definitely want to add an AOS, killer b oil pickup pan. Any suggestions on more reliable parts? Or is killer b oil necessary? I’m probably at most, add an air intake and a cat back exhaust all of which will be pro tune. Awesome channel🤙🏻
This video is very underrated! Should be the #1 video to watch for people who drive their subbies hard.... If you daily your Subbie you can get away with just proper regular maintenance. But however if your oil pickup breaks you are fucked... Run an oil pressure gauge would protect you from this :) Also oil temp to properly drive it warm etc. And you missed talking about the heatsoaking of the top mount :) Either get a front mount or make sure you properly drive it cool after being stuck in traffic.
I have a Mishimoto CC and I just keep it drained all the time.. I drain it like once a week.. I Have it hidden in the wheel well, and I run a line down out of the bottom, so I can crack I open it just drains right out.. I drain it everyday in the winter.. You don't want to be sucking frozen sludge into you turbo, I did it.. LOL.. Took 2 days for the smoke to go away and I pulled everything apart mostly and cleaned it with break cleaner.. Everything is all good now..
Up here in Canada most shops DON'T recommend running an AOS - even the heated ones such as the Perrin or IAG. Unless of course you park your Subie for the winter(why???) There have been too many cases of the AOS freezing up and causing total engine destruction up here. It happens once you get below -20 deg.C
I had done all this in my wrx after I went stage 2 with flex fuel. Had some knock even on e85 and realized spark plugs needed to be changed. So I suggest changing them every 25-30,000 miles or so to also improve longevity.
Great video. Did my AOS 2 weekends ago, it's a Cobb. Took about 2 hours, but killed my knees and back. The instructions Cobb provides online were very useful, once you figured out the perspective they were taking the pictures from. Next is probably going to be the killer b oil pan. Keep up the great work on the vids.
@@NyunJah if you install a set of Equal Length Headers on your car it will sound more like a honda civic. if you install unequal length header on the car it will still have the "Subaru rumble".
@@Smeedia It's currently for the brz/86/frs platform in terms of ready to go mounting but works on everything for fabricate mounting. Verus is working on a newer WRX/sti mount. It's also quite a bit smaller than iag and Crawford ones, and supports drainback too. real_awd_cars is my Instagram and I have photos of it on my 04 if you're curious.
I love your style of videos and you very knowledgeable! Thank you for sharing this information so noobs like us don’t blow our Subaru’s up ;) keep it up man!
In your opinion, with a car like mine (stock STI down to the paper filter with 107k miles on it, well taken care of, unknown how much the previous owner pounded on it, but runs well, pulls hard, no engine oil burning, and no symptoms of oil/coolant fouling. Short of a compression test to confirm, which will get done soon, the car "seems" to be in perfect shape). And so far, the only mod I've done is an Accessport, and I'm running the Stage 1 ACN 91 map with Canadian 93 octane. 1. I plan to do the cylinder cooling mod ASAP! but how safe is to go for the occasional WOT run before this gets done? 2. Is it worth getting an AEM Dry filter to replace the stock paper filter? 3. I'm currently monitoring Coolant temp (highest its gone is 191f), feedback knock (highest it's done is -2.8, and usually only for the first second of hammering it hard on 2nd or 3rd gear), and DAM (has never gone below 1). Does that mean I am in a safe range to blast the car once in a while? 4. The ACN91 Map has 8psi on I-Drive, 14psi on S-Drive, and 17psi on S#. I am scared to try S#. Am I being paranoid? I'm tempted to try how it feels. What do you think? Awesome channel BTW, I'm soaking in all your great videos!
With it all stock I wouldent worry too much, just wouldent do pulls 24/7 lol Imo I'd say get an SF intake over the panel filter And all normal values, I wouldent stress any of it 🙏
@@5amfishing59 After a few months of driving the car, and a couple of weeks of trying the regular 91 octane OTS tune (not the ACN 91) with both Canadian 91, and Canadian 93 and 94, I saw no difference whatsoever in the #'s reported by the AccessPort. Using 91 on the regular 91 tune did not cause any knock, or any other issues with the car. BUT since it is a higher mileage motor and I don't want to spend $5k+ right now to replace my motor, I put the ACN tune back in it, and I just use 91 octane now. I think Cobb is being VERY conservative since they probably don't want to have any controversy with Canadian customers blowing their shit up. But I'm sure there is some truth to the quality of the gas vs in the non-commie states. The car was definitely snappier on the regular 91 tune. I never tried the 93, but if I'm brave, maybe I'll try it soon with a tank of Canadian 94
I'd bump the radiator up the list if you live in the southwest. My ambient air thermometer today said 121dF and the car was struggling, coolant and oil temps were high and the intake manifold temps were getting up to 150-170dF while sitting in traffic. Time to upgrade the cooling system when the car starts to heat soak from normal driving.
Awesome video. Going to spend this summer getting all of those installed. Then next summer, power mods. Also noob question. Would you need a tune for any of those?
That's a good question... and is it worth waiting to do it in stages, like do these, then a tune then your air intake system and tune again then say boost tune again or wait till you do it all including your suspension etc then tune? Or do what you can afford for a while eg I could probably realistically afford maybe this stage stop for about 6 months save up and wack more money or should I tune between? sorry to hi jack your question man!
@@andrewpaige9152 it's all good bro! Everyone has a different budget. Pro tunes are quiet expensive if you're to do multiple tunes, about 350 a tune usually. I'd say do it in stages if you can afford the tunes. If not, hoard all your mods then tune it in one go. Which is the route im planning on going. Since smeedia confirmed that the supporting mods don't require a tune. I'll be doing those before power mods. But I'll be running MAP stage 1 just for the extra power being fully stock.
There’s a caveat to the radiator statement. Larger radiator is actually only helpful if it adds passes, just getting a thicker radiator with the same number of passes is hurting efficiency. You could argue more capacity, but it’s more water that the air has to pass through so it’s actually restricting air flow. If it’s adding more passes then it improves efficiency. The main benefit would be going to aluminum vs plastic would be reliability and the aluminum insulating heat better.
@@Smeedia I’m ordering everything you suggested next Wednesday probably especially since I’ve already had the warranty claim on the motor for the oil starvation. I’m not trying to have that happen to me while I own it. So I’ll be doing the mods when I get them. I love all your videos! You’re one of the reasons why I’m going to start doing videos!
If you've never done video editing before start with filmora 9, great software to learn the basics with. Then when your ready I'd suggest Adobe premier pro
I did all 5 of the mods from this video. Definitely worth it for the longevity of the car. I had a really hard time deciding between the 3 radiators though, MISHIMOTO VS KOYO VS CSF. Which one do you thinks is best?
I always run mine on 98 octane pump gas and a bottle of Nulon Octane booster with each tank full, which claims to raise the octane level by up to 7 points. I doubt that it does this with 98 but I still always run it for insurance. Another reason for broken ringlands is excessive timing, so maybe back off your timing a couple of degrees as well.
Hey Tanner i got a quick question. I just got a 2020 sti and i want to run the equal length headers and the larger radiator. Will i be needing a tune for these? Maybe an intake along the way also
Thanx for the pro tips Smeedia. Will the Mishimoto radiator have enough clearance to the pullies and cooling fans? Or is there Mods or extra space needed in the engine bay? Also is a catch can any good whats the difference aren't they doing the same job accept one has cooling aspects? Sorry if noob question but educate me please. Cheers. Great content as usual.
Bro i really like ur content on Scoobies....they are not only very useful for us owners but very variety and diverse as well. You're one of my favorite Scooby info to goto apart from general car reviewers like Jason EE.... But ive one BIG SUGGESTIONS to you....you might want to RE-THINK by making video OUTSIDE your garage x'DDD.....if you know what I mean xDDDD....it kinda gets 'dreary' alittle but...jus a tip tho...I like the dog alot myb he can go explore abit while you're at it xPP
Since some of thr older videos we've got out of the garage a little more but limited with some of the videos for the topic and discussion ones but since this one have got out a lot more!
Cracked my radiator for my 06 WRX up at the top plastic part. Recently bought a Koyo Radiator, just waiting for it to be delivered. I would recommend a new radiator the older the car.
Hey man great video. I would also suggest upgrading the fuel system too. Damn crappy series system in the EJ’s. Cylinder 4 always gets the short end of the stick. u can lean it out and cause knocking.
Love your content! I haven't started any real mods on my 16 WRX. Its my daily and I am worried about the reliability. Any suggestions on simple things I can do to keep it reliable and make the car a bit more fun?
Great video and thank you for the knowledge! I’m completely new to any car mods and STI. Just got my 2021 STI 2 weeks ago. I’m wondering is it safe to a noob like me to install all these myself or it’s better to find a professional tune/install store to do this and learn more? Would these mods void the warranty or only something touches ECU void the warranty? Great thanks again for the video! And this is actually my first ever UA-cam comment after 10 yrs using it lol
Congrats in the car and welcome back! You can definitely install these modifications yourself. None of them are too over the top difficult. Just keep in mind Subarubof America can be relatively picking with mods and warranty stuff. Always best to run by any potential mod ideas by your dealer if you plan on retaining all aspects of your warranty without issue 🙏
Oil temps are more of an issue with higher horse power. On stock turbo cars, not really a concern. A larger radiator is sufficient at keeping temps cooler. A larger radiator and AC delete will drop temps around 20 degrees
ok let me ask this question.What if I do the same thats on your car with cooling minus you have mishimoto radiator and I have csf. So what if i put the oem pressure cap on radiator and use mishimoto cap on turbo tank. What is the bar pressure on the mishimoto cap ? Maybe that will fix my issue ? Ive been looking at the 1.3 bar STI caps but there almost 70 dollars and i dont want to spend that much on a cap to test if it will fix my cooling. Im just trying to find that happy meduim. And with a bigger radiator I just dont think that I shouid be seeing temps above 205 degrees.
@@Smeedia ive watched that video 3 times now. Still doesnt help with us aftermarket radiators, and what it does to the system on bigger radiators and what changes it causes.
Some good recommendations there 👌. Whether you have an EJ or FA motor the AOS is a no brainer, went with IAG. A better exhaust header, specifically stainless is right up there too, the larger diameter makes the engine breath better. The one modification not on your list that both EJ and FA engines can benefit from is a Fluidampr harmonic crankshaft damper, especially if you are increasing WHP and torque. It is $$$ but a longevity extender. You may want to add it to your list!
What brand would you suggest for a fluid damper? i would say the FA guys (any DI engine) would need the AOS a little more then the EJ ( not saying we don't need it cause we do) just cause of the DI and how prone to knock those motors are as well as the carbon build up on the valves nasty stuff. Great vid man !
@@watch6058 Fluidampr is the only fluid filled crankshaft damper I am aware of. I got mine through Subispeed www.subispeed.com/catalogsearch/result/?cat=0&q=Fluidampr . I installed it with my engine upgrades.
IAG Oil Pickup is a solid piece like Killer B. Running the IAG Oil Pickup and Killer B Windage Tray on Stock oil pan for now. Depends on what brand you want to be loyal to 😝
I JUST ordered the IAG oil pickup kit, it comes with the pickup and baffle but im not sure about the pan. I'll have a review soon. Should be installed by next week. Also did the IAG (Cobb rebrand) AOS, and a perrin oil cooler. However, I'm getting a new turbo and went with the Tomei mx8265 and Tomei unequal headers and up pipe) BTW, also got the KEIN blast plate transmission thing and torque solutions trans mount and pitch stop. Plus a ton of other supporting mods and gauges (AFR Oil temp Oil press) it's gonna be a whole new beast.
@@Smeedia yeah I'm really regretting replacing my trans with an OEM one a couple years ago, would've cost less to have it rebuilt..... Hindsight 20/20. Better decisions have happened since, but it was a huge hit. It's a whole other deal. So, i want it to last as long as possible.
What can I do with a Ej25 engine on a 2008 Impreza 2.5 non turbo automatic to ensure longevity of my car? I have a cold air intake (not short ram) and a 3' dual exhaust catback as the major modifications. The catylic converter is a walker brand about a year old and carb emission compliant with unequal length headers. The entire exhaust pipes are basically replaced as are other general maintenance parts (spark plug/wires, ignition coil, valve covers. Currently, the car is being serviced for bad compression and internal burning oil most likely it's going to be a piston/valve and seals repair. It also had a head gasket repair almost a year ago also. Currently, the car has 177,740 miles on it. Any ideas as I'm not ready to get rid of it just yet. Just a side note I replaced the spark plugs (NGK) and wires and the cars expected avg. mpg. reached as high as 30 avg. mpg
Honestly just stay ontoo of maintance, add a catch can ans drive the car. If you really wanted you could do a larger rad but thr N/As don't have a big aftermarket standing unfortunately
So I have an aftermarket set of unequal length headers on my sti. They are tomei ones. Is that still technically better than the stock headers? I noticed the stock headers are way more restrictive than the tomei ones and the piping size is significantly bigger on the tomei and looks like they have way higher exhaust flow. So even though equal length would be the ideal choice wouldn’t aftermarket unequal length headers still be better and still somewhat help with reducing knock? I noticed after Installing the tomei headers my overall knock decreased a good amount still.
when you do make the el header install, may you please record the sound from exhaust before and after and a few drive by before and after EL header installed. love the info!
I'm with ya on everything, but the equal length headers. I'll replace my engine, before I lose an ounce of that subbie rumble.🤣
Trev Smoove just get cams lol
@@stockblockglock all saving up cams money. Just doing stage 2 this year.
Right! Lmao
Same here. I did everything on this list to my GD STI, but I will never, ever, ever go ELH. I bought Tomei's UELs to slap on once I save up more for Grimmspeeds up and downpipes, but I will never give up that rumble. Block be damned I'll build 10 more before that.
Newbie question here. What do yall mean by cams? Camshaft?
I've done hours of research, learning everything possible to add reliability to my track/street car. You've hit the mark on this one on every point. Oil and cooling are really the highlights. Don't forget a nice smooth tune and some one step colder plugs too ;)
Definitely 🔥 a fluidamper or ATI super damper is another good one to add to the list 🙌
Equal Length Headers + Cyl 4 Cooling Mod are a huge part of equalizing EGT across all cylinders. The Subaru EJ Knock Control System is strictly bias to Cylinder 4, as it runs 1.5 degrees of timing over over all cylinders. Essentially, Subaru's thought process is "If Cyl 4 isn't knocking, we're good." Timing is everything. It's how power is made. ELH and Cylinder 4 both contribute to a safe increase in timing, although Octane is the major contributor.
Tanner dude I remember when this vid came out right when I bought my STi. You were my biggest resource leading up to and after buying it. Congrats on the success so far and I can’t wait to see you make it to the top!
Appreciate the support my friend and glad that the videos have continued to help! 💛💛💛
I’ve watched this video a few years ago and I’ve installed Perrin AOS, cylinder 4 mod, Killer B oil pan +tube +tray plus other reliable mods. Still stock headers though😂 but this video helped me out then and after owning my 07 Hawkeye for three years, and still going, is still running smooth even after several Road trips from Washington state all the way down to Florida👌🏾
Longevity is a big thing to keep in mind, specially when we do some mods.💪💪💪
Biggest thing to keep in mind when modifying these cars 😁
@@Smeedia yes sir!...already told the tuner that I'll go with the IAG AOS Street, he replied me, that i can't go wrong with that one💪
Before adding all kinds of power to your WRX or STI, get your supporting mods done first 💯
Dope video, subscribed!
Agreed, supporting mods will build the foundation to mod ontop of and build a reliable car. Appreciate the support!
I always get distracted looking at all the license plates in the back 😂
You put out great content man! Always like when people discuss the technicals of these cars, and not just talking about their downpipe and catback for the hundredth time. Keep it up!
Haha gotta expand on more than just their down pipes and catbacks 😅 appreciate the support 🙌
Love the IAG oil pan set. Cools the oil better, holds more oil, windage tray and baffles are nicely made. The pick up is a monster
May snag an IAG one on the next EJ build I do 🔥
@@Smeedia do they have this for the 2016 wrx or no?
Wrx only has a lower oan, no need to swap it 🙏
@@Smeedia thank you sir for the info. I'm still learning about my fa20. You have been a real goldmine for knowledge.
Just got my first subie. 2017 sti and all the info in these videos has been really helpful. Never done anything with a tuner. Was always a one carburetor is good let's get two guy. Getting my car as far as i can without swapping the rotating assembly. This is invaluable. Thanks so much.
Glad thr video helped and open to any questions if you get them! 🙏🙏🙏
Dod your engine blow yet
Just earlier was trying to find some information on the forums about reliability mods. And then here it is in one video. Love the content man 👍 very informative
Thank you and glad I could bring it all to one place 🙌😁
By the Killer B Holy Header with there ceramic coating and buy a ceramic coated downpipe if you can. A downpipe with two ports so you can run a wideband sensor.
You will be so happy you did in the future. Killer B’s most current design with the one piece collector sounds damn good.
Longevity is what I want for my practically stock WRX
@@remissiveslave It’s his car let him be. You should buy it instead
@@remissiveslave if u think that then why the fuck even bother clicking on this video dude 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
I'm running IAG Oil components and I haven't noticed any issues with it. My local speed shop recommends them on all their Subie builds. They are the ones that did my IAG stage 2 shortblock too!
IAG is my top brand for AOS they do an awesome job with theirs!
Running IAG pickup and windage tray and they are both great quality.
Again brother great info on channel as always.
Elh, aos,diff oil pan, tray and pickup tube,radiator all check. Next mod is dom mod 🤙🏽
Appreciate the feedback and well worth it!
Ever since I got the Cobb anxiety port about month ago.
I have the common side effect of anxiety and paranoia now.
just seeing how much knock feeb back I get. 1.40 2.40 3.00 5.00 7.00 now hit a new record 8.00! These numbers just pop up driving normal at random times and if I drive it hard too on my 2017 bone stock STi 🙃🙃
Did some research didn’t help me to well so many different opinions.
But i do find it funny your timing on certain videos topic you make are on par with things I’m planing on doing or have concerns about at the moment.
The Acessport is a good tool but also creates so much paranoia 😅 I was the same way when I first got mine. 😅
Somehow someway the universe brought me to this comment as I think the same thing.
Do you recommend Perrin oil separator ?
IAG 🙏
Got this AOS mounted, thanks for the tips! This install wasn't terrible, but def requires your patience. The mount is great because it didn't interfere with my strut bar at all. If it hasn't been said already, def keep a magnet close by, and grab a friend during the AOS mounting (most challenging part in my opinion). Other than that, everything is tight and works like a champ. Thanks again on the video!
Glad you got it mounted up with minimal issues and appreciate the support 😁
This is a great video no one ever explains or suggest these parts at least not as much as you and all in one vid!!!! Good job hopefully some of these guys take this into consideration 👍🤛
Good modifications to really make the car last 🙌 tried to put them all in one place 🔥
super informative. a lot of people don't know these things. This is why I like watching your vids.
Trying to push the longevity aspects, appreciate the support 🙌
Hey thanks for this video! I have a 2010 WRX with 124,xxx KM on it. engine started knocking the other day. I will be installing AOS, Oil kit and radiator at the same time I get my engine fixed.
Hopefully it's a speedy recovery to get it back on the road! 🙏🙏
@@Smeedia just thought I'd update here. so main bearing was the issue for me,
I went deep, but happy about it tbh lol
I put the deposit on parts with the local Subaru specialist in my city.
so main bearing was the issue in the old short block.
Got IAG Stage 2 Tuff short block
IAG AOS
Killer B oil pickup and Oil baffle
4th cylinder cooling mod
and everything else that comes with the build like good head gaskets, better head studs, etc. probably change to Poly engine mounts too.
And since I'm doing all that as well, I'm also looking at a refurbished turbo from a shop in Ottawa.
Great video as always 👍 Makes me treasure my Celica even more now 👏
What gen celica?!😁
6th Gen Celica... It's a great reliable car I've been using for 28 years to date and thankfully didn't give me any downtime other than the usual wear & tear maintenance 👍 My 18 years old Impreza WRX on the other hand, has regularly been in & out of the workshops with various repairs + the usual wear and tear despite myself keeping her completely stock 😅... Just proves what you highlighted in your video is exactly spot on and if undertaken, will make our Impreza WRX/STi more reliable for long term ownership 👍 👏... If only a video like yours were available 10 plus years ago, many Impreza owners in similar situation as me would perhaps be able to save $$$ of unnecessary repairs 🤲... Nevertheless I'm thankful that you've made this video now... Better late than never 👏
Cheers 🍻
I really enjoy your format for recording your videos as well as the editing, keep it up !
Thank you! Appreciate the feedback and the support 😁😁
I have always loved the WRX/STi platform, and last year finally got my hands on a stock '08 WRX for $4k expecting to have to do a rebuild (random cylinder misfire). I pulled the engine and heads and the cylinder bores look great for 135k miles, so I think it just needs some head work. With the remaining budget for the car, I'm able to modify it just how I want it. So thank you for helping me build my Suby to endure some spirited driving through the mountains of California!
Glad that it all came together and you for it for some deals too! 🔥
Hows ur subie 6 months later?
Great video! Although I would add an oil cooler upgrade and removing banjo bolt filters with screens.
Ohhhh also good suggestions!
Another good video. Congrats on10,000 subscribers. Thx for more FA20 stuff.
Teying to add in the FA20 bits where I can! And thank you! Super pumped to see the 10K! 🙌
Just picked up a used 2020 WRX and I’ve been going crazy researching reliability as I do know Subarus has a bad reputation in terms of blown engine. I stumbled on your channel and honestly I feel like all my worries is put at rest. I definitely want to add an AOS, killer b oil pickup pan. Any suggestions on more reliable parts? Or is killer b oil necessary? I’m probably at most, add an air intake and a cat back exhaust all of which will be pro tune. Awesome channel🤙🏻
This video is very underrated! Should be the #1 video to watch for people who drive their subbies hard....
If you daily your Subbie you can get away with just proper regular maintenance. But however if your oil pickup breaks you are fucked...
Run an oil pressure gauge would protect you from this :) Also oil temp to properly drive it warm etc.
And you missed talking about the heatsoaking of the top mount :) Either get a front mount or make sure you properly drive it cool after being stuck in traffic.
Ive got a whole video on top mount vs front mount but totally agree! 😁😁😁
I have a Mishimoto CC and I just keep it drained all the time.. I drain it like once a week.. I Have it hidden in the wheel well, and I run a line down out of the bottom, so I can crack I open it just drains right out.. I drain it everyday in the winter.. You don't want to be sucking frozen sludge into you turbo, I did it.. LOL.. Took 2 days for the smoke to go away and I pulled everything apart mostly and cleaned it with break cleaner.. Everything is all good now..
Keep up the great videos!! Super informative!
More coming 🙌 appreciate the support!
Up here in Canada most shops DON'T recommend running an AOS - even the heated ones such as the Perrin or IAG. Unless of course you park your Subie for the winter(why???) There have been too many cases of the AOS freezing up and causing total engine destruction up here. It happens once you get below -20 deg.C
I have seen some of the fourms talk have talked about the issues and the announcement IAG put out and I'd agree with you on that one.
@@Smeedia Link to the IAG statement?
@@ericn7698 this is one of the ones I saw
m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=2464853653586997&id=185264628212589
Man, all of your videos are informative! Class in session when you post!
Trying to spread the knowledge! 🤣
I love how your wrx is just fitting in your garage by hairlengths lol
Lol she was a tight squeeze 😅
I had done all this in my wrx after I went stage 2 with flex fuel. Had some knock even on e85 and realized spark plugs needed to be changed. So I suggest changing them every 25-30,000 miles or so to also improve longevity.
Great video. Did my AOS 2 weekends ago, it's a Cobb. Took about 2 hours, but killed my knees and back. The instructions Cobb provides online were very useful, once you figured out the perspective they were taking the pictures from. Next is probably going to be the killer b oil pan. Keep up the great work on the vids.
The oil pan is awful to install but well worth it!
@@Smeedia should I just save and do the ELH at the same time? I vaguely remember you had to remove or loosen the header to install the oil pan.
@@Smeedia also to help you with your JDM obsession, subispeed released a OEM JDM STI type R A R ? mirror cover.
Thanks for the great video. New to the Subie world and love the channel. Keep it up!
Glad the video helped and appreciate the feedback and support! 😁😁
I have a full invidia exhaust including a EL header on my sti and while it lost most of its rumble it sounds like a rally car. So I’m okay with it.
Helo. Does it imply wen i install an aftermarket exhaust my forester will lose rumble?
@@NyunJah if you install a set of Equal Length Headers on your car it will sound more like a honda civic. if you install unequal length header on the car it will still have the "Subaru rumble".
Thanks for the knowledge you share, it helps a ton.
Glad it's been helping! 😁😁😁
The Verus engineering AOS is perfect. Friend has one on his 2016 WRX and I have one on my 04 WRX wagon.
I'll have to check theirs out!
@@Smeedia It's currently for the brz/86/frs platform in terms of ready to go mounting but works on everything for fabricate mounting. Verus is working on a newer WRX/sti mount. It's also quite a bit smaller than iag and Crawford ones, and supports drainback too.
real_awd_cars is my Instagram and I have photos of it on my 04 if you're curious.
A great video. So my base model 2020 STI comes with an unequal length header? I didn't know that.
Yessir 🥳
I love your style of videos and you very knowledgeable! Thank you for sharing this information so noobs like us don’t blow our Subaru’s up ;) keep it up man!
In your opinion, with a car like mine (stock STI down to the paper filter with 107k miles on it, well taken care of, unknown how much the previous owner pounded on it, but runs well, pulls hard, no engine oil burning, and no symptoms of oil/coolant fouling. Short of a compression test to confirm, which will get done soon, the car "seems" to be in perfect shape). And so far, the only mod I've done is an Accessport, and I'm running the Stage 1 ACN 91 map with Canadian 93 octane.
1. I plan to do the cylinder cooling mod ASAP! but how safe is to go for the occasional WOT run before this gets done?
2. Is it worth getting an AEM Dry filter to replace the stock paper filter?
3. I'm currently monitoring Coolant temp (highest its gone is 191f), feedback knock (highest it's done is -2.8, and usually only for the first second of hammering it hard on 2nd or 3rd gear), and DAM (has never gone below 1). Does that mean I am in a safe range to blast the car once in a while?
4. The ACN91 Map has 8psi on I-Drive, 14psi on S-Drive, and 17psi on S#. I am scared to try S#. Am I being paranoid? I'm tempted to try how it feels.
What do you think? Awesome channel BTW, I'm soaking in all your great videos!
With it all stock I wouldent worry too much, just wouldent do pulls 24/7 lol
Imo I'd say get an SF intake over the panel filter
And all normal values, I wouldent stress any of it 🙏
I knew there was an exchange rate but 93 Canadian octane = CA 91 ? Lol
@@5amfishing59 After a few months of driving the car, and a couple of weeks of trying the regular 91 octane OTS tune (not the ACN 91) with both Canadian 91, and Canadian 93 and 94, I saw no difference whatsoever in the #'s reported by the AccessPort. Using 91 on the regular 91 tune did not cause any knock, or any other issues with the car. BUT since it is a higher mileage motor and I don't want to spend $5k+ right now to replace my motor, I put the ACN tune back in it, and I just use 91 octane now. I think Cobb is being VERY conservative since they probably don't want to have any controversy with Canadian customers blowing their shit up. But I'm sure there is some truth to the quality of the gas vs in the non-commie states.
The car was definitely snappier on the regular 91 tune. I never tried the 93, but if I'm brave, maybe I'll try it soon with a tank of Canadian 94
First things going on the stock 03 bugeye I just bought will be the aos and the killer b oil pick up kit. Thanks for the video!
Anytime! Glad the video helped!
There is absolutely no chance in hell that an 03 bugeye you just bought is stock.
@@Tj_McQueen bruh this was 2 years ago, and it was stock, and I made it not stock lol
@@Grooove_e I know it was 2 years ago, but you didn’t buy a stock 03 bugeye in 2020. Just didn’t happen.
@@Tj_McQueen I did buy it in 2020 right before covid...you weren't there so you don't know
Some good things to know🤙🏾 think I need to make some purchases ha
Liked and subscribed brother. What brand rims and spoiler is on the car? What’s the suspension? I’m looking for a setup pretty much 100% same as this
I'd bump the radiator up the list if you live in the southwest. My ambient air thermometer today said 121dF and the car was struggling, coolant and oil temps were high and the intake manifold temps were getting up to 150-170dF while sitting in traffic. Time to upgrade the cooling system when the car starts to heat soak from normal driving.
Agreed, depending on where you live determines where it takes priority 🙏
Awesome video. Going to spend this summer getting all of those installed. Then next summer, power mods. Also noob question. Would you need a tune for any of those?
The only one you need a tune for is the ELH 😁
That's a good question... and is it worth waiting to do it in stages, like do these, then a tune then your air intake system and tune again then say boost tune again or wait till you do it all including your suspension etc then tune? Or do what you can afford for a while eg I could probably realistically afford maybe this stage stop for about 6 months save up and wack more money or should I tune between? sorry to hi jack your question man!
@@andrewpaige9152 it's all good bro! Everyone has a different budget. Pro tunes are quiet expensive if you're to do multiple tunes, about 350 a tune usually. I'd say do it in stages if you can afford the tunes. If not, hoard all your mods then tune it in one go. Which is the route im planning on going. Since smeedia confirmed that the supporting mods don't require a tune. I'll be doing those before power mods. But I'll be running MAP stage 1 just for the extra power being fully stock.
Saved to my list of videos. I will do this to the bug eye once I put another engine in her
Definitely worth it! 🔥🙌
Awesome to see a successful WA content creator! Hopefully ill get to meet you at an event!
I'm out and about at some of the events 😁
There’s a caveat to the radiator statement. Larger radiator is actually only helpful if it adds passes, just getting a thicker radiator with the same number of passes is hurting efficiency. You could argue more capacity, but it’s more water that the air has to pass through so it’s actually restricting air flow. If it’s adding more passes then it improves efficiency. The main benefit would be going to aluminum vs plastic would be reliability and the aluminum insulating heat better.
What are your thoughts on the Baxter performance check valve system that helps get oil to the top end of the motor more quickly upon startup?
Ron Davis has a rad for the Subi and they are the KINGS of Radiators. That is all they do is radiators..
Great video man keep up the great work I need to do some of these mods
Thank you! And they're well worth mods!
Another good video brother. Have a good week and stay safe.
Thank you my friend! 🙏🙏🙏
I’m actually looking at most of these parts for the my STI, especially the A/O separator
Well worth it 🔥🔥🔥
@@Smeedia I’m ordering everything you suggested next Wednesday probably especially since I’ve already had the warranty claim on the motor for the oil starvation. I’m not trying to have that happen to me while I own it. So I’ll be doing the mods when I get them. I love all your videos! You’re one of the reasons why I’m going to start doing videos!
Lemme know when you start making them! Would live to check em out 🔥
@@Smeedia I definitely will man thanks!! Any tips on making videos and what software I should get for editing videos?
If you've never done video editing before start with filmora 9, great software to learn the basics with. Then when your ready I'd suggest Adobe premier pro
Hey fam what is the wheel set up? I love them so much
Work emotion D9R 🙏
Do you need a tune for equal length headers?
Yes 🙏
@@Smeedia thank you 🙏
I did all 5 of the mods from this video. Definitely worth it for the longevity of the car. I had a really hard time deciding between the 3 radiators though, MISHIMOTO VS KOYO VS CSF. Which one do you thinks is best?
I would pick Koyo out of the three 🔥 I use mishimoto though lmao
I always run mine on 98 octane pump gas and a bottle of Nulon Octane booster with each tank full, which claims to raise the octane level by up to 7 points. I doubt that it does this with 98 but I still always run it for insurance. Another reason for broken ringlands is excessive timing, so maybe back off your timing a couple of degrees as well.
Hey Tanner i got a quick question. I just got a 2020 sti and i want to run the equal length headers and the larger radiator. Will i be needing a tune for these? Maybe an intake along the way also
What size rims and tires are those in your subie
18x9.5 +38 on a 245/35/18
sorry I didn't hear that third one over the sound of my rumble rumble
Thanks for making this type of videos 💪🏻
Anytime! 😁
Thanx for the pro tips Smeedia. Will the Mishimoto radiator have enough clearance to the pullies and cooling fans? Or is there Mods or extra space needed in the engine bay? Also is a catch can any good whats the difference aren't they doing the same job accept one has cooling aspects? Sorry if noob question but educate me please. Cheers. Great content as usual.
The radiator with OE fans will clear the pulleys no problem, a catch can will work just make sure you remember to drain it 😅
Bro i really like ur content on Scoobies....they are not only very useful for us owners but very variety and diverse as well. You're one of my favorite Scooby info to goto apart from general car reviewers like Jason EE....
But ive one BIG SUGGESTIONS to you....you might want to RE-THINK by making video OUTSIDE your garage x'DDD.....if you know what I mean xDDDD....it kinda gets 'dreary' alittle but...jus a tip tho...I like the dog alot myb he can go explore abit while you're at it xPP
Since some of thr older videos we've got out of the garage a little more but limited with some of the videos for the topic and discussion ones but since this one have got out a lot more!
Cracked my radiator for my 06 WRX up at the top plastic part. Recently bought a Koyo Radiator, just waiting for it to be delivered. I would recommend a new radiator the older the car.
Agreed! Have had the OE plastic crack on me as well with my old 02 WRX
Will I need a tune after installing an AOS?? I have a 18 Sti
No tune needed 🙏
Bro wat are them rims u got on ur car they look good
Hey man great video. I would also suggest upgrading the fuel system too. Damn crappy series system in the EJ’s. Cylinder 4 always gets the short end of the stick. u can lean it out and cause knocking.
Another solid upgrade choice, especially with the 2015+ STIs
Would you recommend installing a AOS on a stock 2016 BRZ? Thanks
Question!!! Is the IAG oil pickup better then the killer b🧐
Not really, I've used both and either option is a good choice
Where’s that cylinder 4 cooling mod hot spot differences link? ;)
On Doms website 😉
Appreciate the informative videos!
Appreciate the support!
Smeedia will a tune be required for doing a EL header?
@@wilmerreyes9276 yes the header is the only part that requires a tune
Love your content! I haven't started any real mods on my 16 WRX. Its my daily and I am worried about the reliability. Any suggestions on simple things I can do to keep it reliable and make the car a bit more fun?
Just stay on top of maitenencae and enjoy the car. No real simple.mods to help but just keeping fresh fluids goes a long way
Just install IAG Stage 2 Oil Pump, and you are ready to go.
Great video and thank you for the knowledge! I’m completely new to any car mods and STI. Just got my 2021 STI 2 weeks ago. I’m wondering is it safe to a noob like me to install all these myself or it’s better to find a professional tune/install store to do this and learn more? Would these mods void the warranty or only something touches ECU void the warranty? Great thanks again for the video! And this is actually my first ever UA-cam comment after 10 yrs using it lol
Congrats in the car and welcome back! You can definitely install these modifications yourself. None of them are too over the top difficult. Just keep in mind Subarubof America can be relatively picking with mods and warranty stuff. Always best to run by any potential mod ideas by your dealer if you plan on retaining all aspects of your warranty without issue 🙏
Smeedia Sweet. Thanks!
20k miles on my HKS ELH, no problems here. Solid name brand and solid price.
Very true 🙌 only issues I've ever really had is fitment before. Never ran HKS but thank you for adding it in!
@@Smeedia The HKS slid on just fine. They don't look the prettiest but its a 409 stainless steel which will last for a long time.
You didn’t mention the engine oil cooler?
I think it will help reduce knock, but for the price I dont think that it's one of the top ones. It will definitely help though!
Oil temps are more of an issue with higher horse power. On stock turbo cars, not really a concern.
A larger radiator is sufficient at keeping temps cooler. A larger radiator and AC delete will drop temps around 20 degrees
ok let me ask this question.What if I do the same thats on your car with cooling minus you have mishimoto radiator and I have csf. So what if i put the oem pressure cap on radiator and use mishimoto cap on turbo tank. What is the bar pressure on the mishimoto cap ? Maybe that will fix my issue ? Ive been looking at the 1.3 bar STI caps but there almost 70 dollars and i dont want to spend that much on a cap to test if it will fix my cooling. Im just trying to find that happy meduim. And with a bigger radiator I just dont think that I shouid be seeing temps above 205 degrees.
Give this video a watch, it'll explain it wayyyy better than I can
ua-cam.com/video/HzjBJz1Zdmw/v-deo.html
@@Smeedia ive watched that video 3 times now. Still doesnt help with us aftermarket radiators, and what it does to the system on bigger radiators and what changes it causes.
I had a Crawford AOS, my shop basically refused to install... said they have seen multiple with cracks on interior welds. i got an IAG AOS now.
Will all these mods work on the ej205?
Some good recommendations there 👌. Whether you have an EJ or FA motor the AOS is a no brainer, went with IAG. A better exhaust header, specifically stainless is right up there too, the larger diameter makes the engine breath better. The one modification not on your list that both EJ and FA engines can benefit from is a Fluidampr harmonic crankshaft damper, especially if you are increasing WHP and torque. It is $$$ but a longevity extender. You may want to add it to your list!
Not a bad one to add it! Getting feedback from everyone in here just makes the lists stronger and better!
What brand would you suggest for a fluid damper? i would say the FA guys (any DI engine) would need the AOS a little more then the EJ ( not saying we don't need it cause we do) just cause of the DI and how prone to knock those motors are as well as the carbon build up on the valves nasty stuff. Great vid man !
@@watch6058
Fluidampr is the only fluid filled crankshaft damper I am aware of. I got mine through Subispeed www.subispeed.com/catalogsearch/result/?cat=0&q=Fluidampr . I installed it with my engine upgrades.
If I’m stock I should be fine with AOS and cooling mod?
What size is the wheels ur running in this video
Thanks for the tips, but question do i need a tune if i change the radatior ?
No tune required 🔥
Thanks
Would you install the v3 Crawford without coolant line for a daily drive or stay with the IAG street version ? Thanks
What about oil coolers?
I'm looking to mod my ej25 this is a handy vid
🙏🙏🙏
How important is the radiator splash guard for the bottom of the engine bay
It helps with airflow but it's not 100% needed
IAG Oil Pickup is a solid piece like Killer B. Running the IAG Oil Pickup and Killer B Windage Tray on Stock oil pan for now. Depends on what brand you want to be loyal to 😝
Both are great choices to go with 🙌
Gotta love the grind ⛽️✊🏼 💯👍🏼
🙌🙌🙌🙌 grind em out 🔥
Smeedia 🎉 your channel growth is showing your grinding them out 💯
I JUST ordered the IAG oil pickup kit, it comes with the pickup and baffle but im not sure about the pan. I'll have a review soon. Should be installed by next week.
Also did the IAG (Cobb rebrand) AOS, and a perrin oil cooler. However, I'm getting a new turbo and went with the Tomei mx8265 and Tomei unequal headers and up pipe)
BTW, also got the KEIN blast plate transmission thing and torque solutions trans mount and pitch stop.
Plus a ton of other supporting mods and gauges (AFR Oil temp Oil press) it's gonna be a whole new beast.
Those blast plates are such a good option for the OE trans!
@@Smeedia yeah I'm really regretting replacing my trans with an OEM one a couple years ago, would've cost less to have it rebuilt..... Hindsight 20/20. Better decisions have happened since, but it was a huge hit.
It's a whole other deal. So, i want it to last as long as possible.
What can I do with a Ej25 engine on a 2008 Impreza 2.5 non turbo automatic to ensure longevity of my car? I have a cold air intake (not short ram) and a 3' dual exhaust catback as the major modifications. The catylic converter is a walker brand about a year old and carb emission compliant with unequal length headers. The entire exhaust pipes are basically replaced as are other general maintenance parts (spark plug/wires, ignition coil, valve covers. Currently, the car is being serviced for bad compression and internal burning oil most likely it's going to be a piston/valve and seals repair. It also had a head gasket repair almost a year ago also. Currently, the car has 177,740 miles on it. Any ideas as I'm not ready to get rid of it just yet. Just a side note I replaced the spark plugs (NGK) and wires and the cars expected avg. mpg. reached as high as 30 avg. mpg
Honestly just stay ontoo of maintance, add a catch can ans drive the car. If you really wanted you could do a larger rad but thr N/As don't have a big aftermarket standing unfortunately
Do any of the mods you listed need a tune after installation?
Only the headers, everything else is tune free 🙌
@@Smeedia awesome.. thanks for the quick response.
Love it 👏🏼👏🏼
Thank you! 🙌
So I have an aftermarket set of unequal length headers on my sti. They are tomei ones. Is that still technically better than the stock headers? I noticed the stock headers are way more restrictive than the tomei ones and the piping size is significantly bigger on the tomei and looks like they have way higher exhaust flow. So even though equal length would be the ideal choice wouldn’t aftermarket unequal length headers still be better and still somewhat help with reducing knock? I noticed after Installing the tomei headers my overall knock decreased a good amount still.
What rims are those again?
Work emotion D9R 🙏
when you do make the el header install, may you please record the sound from exhaust before and after and a few drive by before and after EL header installed. love the info!
I'll make sure to get those sound clips for everyone! 😁
What you think about the Crawford V3 AOS that doesn’t use coolant but is located right on top of engine to get the heat off of it?
I think it works but out of all the options is not one of the best choices. The ones that run coolant IMO are the way to go
Does a Cobb AOS require a tune?
No it does not 🙏
Your merch link doesn't work