Actually, I've already done that about a month ago 😁 But I'm still working on the editing of the video, which takes some time to get right since it's going to be a long one (I've done both a drain & fill as well as a full flush). I should have the video published in a few days. Stay tuned!
Hello, from Spain, what also seems strange to me is the different tightening torque of the differential and transfer drain screws, for filling you did give the same tightening torque, is that correct? Thank you!!!
Yes, they do differ, for whatever reason. The torques for the transfer case are given in www.kispmanual.com/transfer_fluid_repair_procedures-771.html, while those for the rear differential are given in www.kispmanual.com/rear_differential_carrier_repair_procedures-812.html. The washers differ as well, again I have no idea why they chose this.
See the video description for the rear drain plug washer OE code. If the part is not available, you can either buy a filler plug washer and gently grind it a bit to make the inner diameter larger, as I did, or if you have no other choice you can take the existing washer, clean it up with some extra-fine sand-paper and then install it the other way around (so that the side which mated to the bolt now mates to the differential housing). It's recommended to not reuse a washer more than 1 time, though it's a better idea to just get a new one if possible.
Any gear oil that is rated 75W90 and GL5 is suitable. It doesn't have to be Shell Spirax. Motul, Liqui Moly, Ravenol etc. all offer 75W90 / GL5 gear oil in their product line-ups. Just make sure you purchase from a reputable oil brand and from a reputable parts store (so the risk of counterfits is low).
@@alexdell84 I got them from a Kia dealer. But there's nothing special about them other than being crush-washers. So any suitable alternatives from an automotive washer kit should work fine, though be careful that they must be "crush" washers and not just any standard washer (I think you're right that at the very least, they must be aluminum for the transfer case).
Hi! What causes vibration when accelerating probably from the prop shaft on the 2014 kia sportage crdi. It becomes quite when the car is running at constant speed?
Vibrations when accelerating can come from multiple sources. If your tires are balanced, then the culprit is usually a prop-shaft or a worn CV-joint. It can also be the bearing that holds the front-to-rear prop-shaft at its middle: if the rubber damper that holds it in place has broken, that can generate a noticeable vibration when accelerating.
The manual does say 120kkm and for gearbox i think it was 100 but i take care of my grandads sportage SL crdi ge bought it new in 2015, has 70k km and when i checked for gearbox and diff oils they were burned lmao
OK, that's weird...was the car pulling a trailer or something? I'd imagine such an additional load would put more strain on the oil... Otherwise, I'm guessing the oil was the wrong spec...
@@TheMissingBolt No additional load, normal city use day to day driving, traffic, some lagguage thats it. as for it being wrong spec could that been from factory?
@@147NITRO In theory, unlikely. But if you say the oil was burned, that can only happen either if there is a constant high load on the differential and transfer case, or if the oil is too thin or lacks the necessary additives to protect the gears, which in turn causes the gears to rub against each other too much and cause excessive heat.
Brother my underbody shield is plastic so one of my family member took my Sportage a day and gone into a big side walk then the transmission pan which was plastic broke and let all the oil out so we replaced the pan and filled up new oil but the transmission had problem which is cannot shift to 4th gear ( i have auto transmission ) whenever i put D and it shifts to 4th gear it delays and the rpms goes up I then took it to obd test which showed P0734 and P0735 so it is been 1 year ever since and i use the manual shifting till the 3rd gear about 50 kmh although the other gears ( P R N ) works perfectly fine even D if you dont accelerate and dont let it reach the 4th gear thats why i use manual shifting so as there is no kia dealer in my country i went to the mechanics and they said me to replace the whole transmission so any advice brother ( it is 4WD 2014-15 sportage )
The 2014 & 2015 Kia Sportage uses the A6* automatic transmission (A6LF2 in my case, for example). That black plastic pan on the front of the transmission is a cover for the transmission's mechatronics unit (the valve body & solenoids). If the car hit the curb so hard that it broke the plastic pan, then most likely it hit some section of the valve body, probably damaging at least some of the solenoids. This might explain why you got the Kia codes P0734 ("Fourth Gear Incorrect Ratio") and P0735 ("Fifth Gear Incorrect Ratio"). Since an oil change didn't solve the problem (assuming you used the correct transmission oil, which is SP-IV), then most likely you need to remove the transmission from the car and have it inspected and repaired at a transmission shop. If you don't have one you can trust, another cost-effective solution would be to source an identical used transmission with warranty.
@@TheMissingBolt Exactly brother it hit hard . After my research about those codes i doubt that those solenoids shifting 4th and 5th gear broke so is it worthy to replace only the valve body and my second question is lets say i replaced the transmission ( should it be a kia sportage 4WD transmission ) and brother my last question if u dont mind can my mechanic trick me and put a 2014 hyundai tucson trans like does it fit thank you so much for the help
@@MoMo-tq8uc Since Kia is owned by Hyundai, the Tucson and the Sportage share a lot of mechanical components, including the transmissions. The transmission's exact model is clearly written somewhere on its aluminium body (ex: A6LF2 etc.). As long as you mechanic sourced a transmission of the same type, even if it did come from a Tucson, then theoretically it should fit.
Hello! I'll give you the values as OD (outer diameter) & ID (inner diameter), as measured from the old washers that I removed from the car: - Transfer case drain washer: 24 & 16.3 mm - Transfer case fill washer: 24 & 18.5 mm - Rear differential drain washer: 24 & 16.1 mm - Rear differential fill washer: 24 & 18.2 mm
Quite informative videos, great job! Could I ask another question, please? I cannot seem to find the answer for the electric power steering rack. Does it come with a motor or it is a hydraulic system that needs an oil change? I have Kia Diesel, 2015 2.0 CRDI 184hp, I believe it is like yours. It is my second car, it is a second-hand car also. I've noticed a strange high pitch noise when the car is started - it is like another motor sound is starting. I'm wondering if it is from that same steering rack.
Hi! All Kia Sportages starting from gen. 3 (2010 onwards) are equipped exclusively with electric power steering, so there's no hydraulic system nor steering fluid to change. Your Kia is identical to what we have engine-wise, yes. Does the noise you mention only happen on start-up or does it persist as long as the engine is running? I would take a look at the state of the accessory belt and pulleys first - they may cause such noises when they wear out past a certain point.
@@TheMissingBolt Thank you very much for taking the time to answer me. I think I know what you are referring to. Yes, there is some noise (at least what the mechanic said) from one of the pulleys. But he also said that it is not a big deal and we'll take a better look next time when I need to change the oil. However, I think this is not the case. The "noise" is inside the car and it starts right after I start the car, slowly like a fade-in noise. The same mechanic said that it is perfectly normal noise, probably from some of the many electronics. But could it be from the motor of the electric power steering? And another question, if I may. The mechanic also said that I should change the transmission oil of the car, although the official dealer explicitly informed me that this car does not need changing the transmission oil ever. What do you think?
@@alekstefanov9095 I can't think of anything that would cause such a noise on start-up inside the car, I'm afraid. We never had such an issue with our car... Regarding the transmission, the manual clearly says that it should be changed after 90K km if driving under "severe" conditions. Having said that, the whole concept of "life-time transmission oil" is extremely misleading. If you don't change it, the oil will indeed last the lifetime of the transmission ... which might be 250K km, let's say. But if you do change it, the transmission may go on to 500K km, for example. Bottom line is: transmission oil should always be changed after a number of years or km, be it a manual or an automatic. The only limit to this is if the transmission is already close to failing (shifting badly etc.), then an oil change will most likely cause it to fail even quicker - because the old oil contains clutch material that helps with the friction, whereas the new one doesn't. I'm actually planning a video soon on how to change the automatic transmission oil in our Sportage, which you might find helpful. 🙂
@@TheMissingBolt Again, what a detailed explanation and answer. Thank you very much for this! Indeed, I'll be probably one of the first ones to see how you change the oil of the automatic transmission. I'm sorry but can I ask the question again about the noise - do you think it can/might be from the motor of the electric power steering?
Good job, very descriptive!! Next you could change the automatic gearbox oil :)
Actually, I've already done that about a month ago 😁 But I'm still working on the editing of the video, which takes some time to get right since it's going to be a long one (I've done both a drain & fill as well as a full flush). I should have the video published in a few days. Stay tuned!
Really clear instructions, thank you
You're very welcome, glad you enjoyed the video!
Bravo excellent vidéo, bonne continuation, dommage je ne comprends que français.
Hello, from Spain, what also seems strange to me is the different tightening torque of the differential and transfer drain screws, for filling you did give the same tightening torque, is that correct? Thank you!!!
Yes, they do differ, for whatever reason. The torques for the transfer case are given in www.kispmanual.com/transfer_fluid_repair_procedures-771.html, while those for the rear differential are given in www.kispmanual.com/rear_differential_carrier_repair_procedures-812.html. The washers differ as well, again I have no idea why they chose this.
There is no part number for the rear drain wsher. Can i just reuse it
See the video description for the rear drain plug washer OE code. If the part is not available, you can either buy a filler plug washer and gently grind it a bit to make the inner diameter larger, as I did, or if you have no other choice you can take the existing washer, clean it up with some extra-fine sand-paper and then install it the other way around (so that the side which mated to the bolt now mates to the differential housing). It's recommended to not reuse a washer more than 1 time, though it's a better idea to just get a new one if possible.
Bravo un travail d'expert merci.
Merci beaucoup!
Thank you. Please Transmission Oil
It's actually in the making right now. I hope to post the video in a couple of weeks. Stay tuned!
What other oil do you recomand? I was trying to find Shell Spirax , but I have trouble choosing between S5 aND S6, both 75W 90
Any gear oil that is rated 75W90 and GL5 is suitable. It doesn't have to be Shell Spirax. Motul, Liqui Moly, Ravenol etc. all offer 75W90 / GL5 gear oil in their product line-ups. Just make sure you purchase from a reputable oil brand and from a reputable parts store (so the risk of counterfits is low).
@@TheMissingBolt Thank you!
Today I was asking Kia dealer for pricing, they want around 400€ for this exact job.
@@alexdell84 Oh wow! And to think that the cost in parts (oil and washers) is less than 50€ and it's a 1/2-hour job to do...
Do you have any ideea where to order only the original washers? Or if I try to use aluminium washers from a standard washer kit would it fit ?
@@alexdell84 I got them from a Kia dealer. But there's nothing special about them other than being crush-washers. So any suitable alternatives from an automotive washer kit should work fine, though be careful that they must be "crush" washers and not just any standard washer (I think you're right that at the very least, they must be aluminum for the transfer case).
Thank you, Excellent video
You are welcome!
Hi! What causes vibration when accelerating probably from the prop shaft on the 2014 kia sportage crdi. It becomes quite when the car is running at constant speed?
Vibrations when accelerating can come from multiple sources. If your tires are balanced, then the culprit is usually a prop-shaft or a worn CV-joint. It can also be the bearing that holds the front-to-rear prop-shaft at its middle: if the rubber damper that holds it in place has broken, that can generate a noticeable vibration when accelerating.
@@TheMissingBolt thanks a lot, that was very helpful. I now know which areas to look at
The manual does say 120kkm and for gearbox i think it was 100 but i take care of my grandads sportage SL crdi ge bought it new in 2015, has 70k km and when i checked for gearbox and diff oils they were burned lmao
OK, that's weird...was the car pulling a trailer or something? I'd imagine such an additional load would put more strain on the oil... Otherwise, I'm guessing the oil was the wrong spec...
@@TheMissingBolt No additional load, normal city use day to day driving, traffic, some lagguage thats it. as for it being wrong spec could that been from factory?
@@147NITRO In theory, unlikely. But if you say the oil was burned, that can only happen either if there is a constant high load on the differential and transfer case, or if the oil is too thin or lacks the necessary additives to protect the gears, which in turn causes the gears to rub against each other too much and cause excessive heat.
Salut, ai cutie automata ? Si daca da, cum ajungi la filtru, pentru ca nimeni din ce am vazut nu à schimbat filtrul😁
Salut! Ti-am raspuns la comment-ul din ua-cam.com/video/9IeL0oS_-y4/v-deo.html.
Brother my underbody shield is plastic so one of my family member took my Sportage a day and gone into a big side walk then the transmission pan which was plastic broke and let all the oil out so we replaced the pan and filled up new oil but the transmission had problem which is cannot shift to 4th gear ( i have auto transmission ) whenever i put D and it shifts to 4th gear it delays and the rpms goes up I then took it to obd test which showed P0734 and P0735 so it is been 1 year ever since and i use the manual shifting till the 3rd gear about 50 kmh although the other gears ( P R N ) works perfectly fine even D if you dont accelerate and dont let it reach the 4th gear thats why i use manual shifting so as there is no kia dealer in my country i went to the mechanics and they said me to replace the whole transmission so any advice brother ( it is 4WD 2014-15 sportage )
The 2014 & 2015 Kia Sportage uses the A6* automatic transmission (A6LF2 in my case, for example). That black plastic pan on the front of the transmission is a cover for the transmission's mechatronics unit (the valve body & solenoids). If the car hit the curb so hard that it broke the plastic pan, then most likely it hit some section of the valve body, probably damaging at least some of the solenoids. This might explain why you got the Kia codes P0734 ("Fourth Gear Incorrect Ratio") and P0735 ("Fifth Gear Incorrect Ratio"). Since an oil change didn't solve the problem (assuming you used the correct transmission oil, which is SP-IV), then most likely you need to remove the transmission from the car and have it inspected and repaired at a transmission shop. If you don't have one you can trust, another cost-effective solution would be to source an identical used transmission with warranty.
@@TheMissingBolt Exactly brother it hit hard . After my research about those codes i doubt that those solenoids shifting 4th and 5th gear broke so is it worthy to replace only the valve body and my second question is lets say i replaced the transmission ( should it be a kia sportage 4WD transmission ) and brother my last question if u dont mind can my mechanic trick me and put a 2014 hyundai tucson trans like does it fit thank you so much for the help
@@MoMo-tq8uc Since Kia is owned by Hyundai, the Tucson and the Sportage share a lot of mechanical components, including the transmissions. The transmission's exact model is clearly written somewhere on its aluminium body (ex: A6LF2 etc.). As long as you mechanic sourced a transmission of the same type, even if it did come from a Tucson, then theoretically it should fit.
@@TheMissingBolt Eternally grateful
Hi! Wie grosse Kupfer/Ringe hast du gebracht? Washer how big? Sorry for my English! Danke, Thank you!
Hello! I'll give you the values as OD (outer diameter) & ID (inner diameter), as measured from the old washers that I removed from the car:
- Transfer case drain washer: 24 & 16.3 mm
- Transfer case fill washer: 24 & 18.5 mm
- Rear differential drain washer: 24 & 16.1 mm
- Rear differential fill washer: 24 & 18.2 mm
@@TheMissingBolt Thank You Master!
Great tutorial
Thank you!
Quite informative videos, great job! Could I ask another question, please? I cannot seem to find the answer for the electric power steering rack. Does it come with a motor or it is a hydraulic system that needs an oil change? I have Kia Diesel, 2015 2.0 CRDI 184hp, I believe it is like yours. It is my second car, it is a second-hand car also. I've noticed a strange high pitch noise when the car is started - it is like another motor sound is starting. I'm wondering if it is from that same steering rack.
Hi! All Kia Sportages starting from gen. 3 (2010 onwards) are equipped exclusively with electric power steering, so there's no hydraulic system nor steering fluid to change. Your Kia is identical to what we have engine-wise, yes. Does the noise you mention only happen on start-up or does it persist as long as the engine is running? I would take a look at the state of the accessory belt and pulleys first - they may cause such noises when they wear out past a certain point.
@@TheMissingBolt Thank you very much for taking the time to answer me. I think I know what you are referring to. Yes, there is some noise (at least what the mechanic said) from one of the pulleys. But he also said that it is not a big deal and we'll take a better look next time when I need to change the oil. However, I think this is not the case. The "noise" is inside the car and it starts right after I start the car, slowly like a fade-in noise. The same mechanic said that it is perfectly normal noise, probably from some of the many electronics. But could it be from the motor of the electric power steering? And another question, if I may. The mechanic also said that I should change the transmission oil of the car, although the official dealer explicitly informed me that this car does not need changing the transmission oil ever. What do you think?
@@alekstefanov9095 I can't think of anything that would cause such a noise on start-up inside the car, I'm afraid. We never had such an issue with our car... Regarding the transmission, the manual clearly says that it should be changed after 90K km if driving under "severe" conditions. Having said that, the whole concept of "life-time transmission oil" is extremely misleading. If you don't change it, the oil will indeed last the lifetime of the transmission ... which might be 250K km, let's say. But if you do change it, the transmission may go on to 500K km, for example. Bottom line is: transmission oil should always be changed after a number of years or km, be it a manual or an automatic. The only limit to this is if the transmission is already close to failing (shifting badly etc.), then an oil change will most likely cause it to fail even quicker - because the old oil contains clutch material that helps with the friction, whereas the new one doesn't. I'm actually planning a video soon on how to change the automatic transmission oil in our Sportage, which you might find helpful. 🙂
@@TheMissingBolt Again, what a detailed explanation and answer. Thank you very much for this! Indeed, I'll be probably one of the first ones to see how you change the oil of the automatic transmission. I'm sorry but can I ask the question again about the noise - do you think it can/might be from the motor of the electric power steering?
@@alekstefanov9095 Hard to say without actually hearing the sound. You could send me a recording using the channel's contact e-mail.