If you have any questions about whether or not you should be doing this I would recommend you seek professional help and go to a shop and if you don't feel confident proceeding on your own after this video and you are still unsure about what to do please seek professional help and go to a shop
My tundra was leaking off every summer, i finally pulled a vacuum and noticed my high side valve was leaking. Lasted all winter this year. Anyway throwing a little oil charge every so often helps with a system that bleeds off.
I remember last year you did a video on an explorer with a No AC complaint. It was way overcharged. That video made me decide to stay away from cans since then. I appreciate this to put my mind at ease. Thanks for more great content
Great video Rich! I had to figure this out by trial and error years ago. I know this video will help others avoid charging their A/C by trial and error like I had to do years ago. Keep up the great DIY videos as well as your professional videos and information as well! God bless!
Rich back in the day I used to run my AC for about 15 minutes in the winter just to keep everything lubricated and working but today on modern cars when you go to defrost or press the defrost button the climate control computer engages the compressor for a quicker defrost for your windshield anyway! Thanks for the explanation on the low and high side I did this about two years ago on the Subaru but just had a manual gauge is not a digital one and I was trying to figure out which reading was more important with the compressor on or total system pressure when it’s cycled off on the can it really doesn’t explain that to you I’m really glad you were able to explain to people the difference!
It's truly amazing how many people don't listen and read your pinned comments. You did a great job explaining what, why and how and still some came out of the woodwork and went full blown technical. Be well Rich👊
Urr the man. Alot of" Auto Experts" online but you sir are always just giving it to us str8. No fluff, filler or BS. I love what u do. I only have 1 gripe, My gr8 grandma always said this, It takes the same amount of time to be kind as it does to be a Bhole. Same amount of effort, same amount of work. Difference is when we be kind it leaves 2 ppl happier, You and me. Love the message. We need this. 2 much BS about small things. We have alot more in common than we do not. This world could sure use some kindness, common sense, courtesy, and respect. After all, Men can be women too. Lmfao. Jk. Just a jab to my abcdefg ppl. She used to also say kill them with kindness. The best revenge is to live a life full of love, care and happiness.
Hello Boss Man Fans and Fellow Carhaulics: Rich this was a nice AC recharge video. Your demonstration & narration was perfect. Thank you sir & God Bless to you & the family, TMP from N.J.
My a/c is running strong since you changed it last year. I used it today as my first time of the season & I got cold. Your knowledge is valuable to me. Thank you for teaching us
Yeah, there is just something special about Rich. Out of the blue he let me be a monitor first time I really believed the damn internet. It is so cool to to have to watch my language ha can't take the country out this 73 year old DNA.
Great video Rich. I'm sure glad you did this and explained it all. My only question I had was tipping the can upside-down and pulling the trigger at the same time. I always just tipped the can from the beginning, I guess I was doing it all wrong. Thanks
You have to think about it like this when you tip the can upside down on the suction side you're introducing liquid right into the AC compressor and you don't want to do that because the AC compressor compresses gases not liquid and you can destroy the system if you're not careful
I like this but I learned my lesson on doing this myself. I did this when I was younger and ruined a compressor in my car. Now when it comes to AC work I take it to a professional who has the proper equipment. This is my personal experience.
Thanks for another educational video,now i can refill my neighbors a/c so she can be cool this summer.i trust you100% with your videos.keep them coming Rich.
Appreciate the video, worth the shot to recharge a system on my old used car, would not really fix it if its gone anyways, 50 buck gamble for cold air I will give err a go.
That was Fantastic!! I really learned a lot and I feel very confident I could help someone under the right circumstances. Thanks for sharing one of the best videos.
I don't recommend these types of cans unless, you have no other choice. I regular R-134A cans to recharge my Honda Accord. I took the face value of the weight published on the can, However, when I began to experience noises within the expansion valve (it was a new Denso valve) I suspected it was overfilled. I took it to a well known HVAC shop in my area. Sure enough, it was overfilled by .68 lbs. The shop claimed these containers are not accurately measured/weighed during manufacturing. Sometimes, they are overfilled (in my case, one of the R-134A containers was the culprit. Please, take your vehicle to a shop to have it diagnosed and properly filed with the respective freon. Even someone that has worked in a shop for years, learned something that day.
Well people can make a lot of claims but if you do it within the ballpark of the restraints I've laid out here for you you're going to be fine but this was indeed specified as somebody trying to show a DIY person how not to grenade their AC compressor so you can't be too critical of this video and if you choose to well the problem is yours not mine because I've laid out all the disclaimers here
Thanks for the info Rich! Idk ive always been in the opinion of if your A/C isnt working correctly, have it diagnosed and fixed correctly instead of spending money repeatedly on the A/C cans. Not to say that the A/C recharge cans dont have a purpose in repairs, but personally, i would rather have my system repaired correctly the first time by a professional like yourself so i that i dont have to keep messing with it. rather than continue to spend money on these cans every so often. Just seems to be the most cost efficient in most cases (obviously situation dependent). Just my opinion though.
Most people nowadays need professional help that can't be found at the shop. I know one guy that "didn't notice the grinding sounds" and destroyed all but a caliper in his rear end. I think we found remnants of two pads when we tore into that car
By the way I am so proud of Valvoline for getting the great reviews you and others have been giving it. I only use Valvoline, 40yr. or so. BACK IN THE DAY I ONLY USED, 20/50 RACING, AND A PREMIUM FRAM, THINK IT WAS CALLED, GOLD OIL. K&N FOR MY AIR FILTERS, REUSABLE 👍 I HAD A, DATSUN 510 WAGON DUAL POINTS 🤔👍,68 CHEVY EL-CAMINO 283 V-8, 98 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE, LERADO 4.0 STRAIGHT 6 CYLINDER, AUTOMATIC. SORRY I GOT DISTRACTED BY THE OIL. BACK TO THE A/C. 🙄🤗🙏✝️♥️😉.
Just came across this video. It was the best out of all the videos I’ve seen. Thank you very much for that and your time. One question. Majority of your video you had the can upright pulling the trigger while the compressor cycled on. Towards the end of the video you tilted the can, pressing the trigger, why was that? Thank you very much.
Just a tip to Rich's viewers, buy an A/C Thermometer and leave it in the center vent. If your "Normal" operating temp is say 40dreg, then you will see it start to creep up when your refringent is getting low. say in 45/50 dreg. That is when you can add and the system will not be empty. And learn what a "normal" run time sounds like for your car. Thanks for the share. Okay so who remembers when a can of R-12 was 16oz, hey that's a pound🤣
I remember when you could pick up a can of R-12 for less than $2. I had about half a case (pre-embargo) until last year. Gave it to a friend restoring an early 70s Pontiac. The R-12 system on it was still intact and sealed, he didn't want to spend the coin to convert to R-134a. Just remembered dealing with the nightmare of all the fake refrigerants that were being marketed in the 1990s.
Rich, I enjoyed your presentation. My preference is to use my gauge set, yet have an appreciation for the can method you demonstrated when short of time, etc. Again, nice work. There's enough detail in the video for one to do it correctly and not overthink it. Enjoy your day!
Topped up the A/C in my Honda accord 2 summers ago cause it was low. It was still cool but the passenger side colder than the driver side. Used the A/C pro with the leak sealer and it’s been going good since then. It was 100 degrees last summer and I was still getting 30 degrees blowing out of all vents
I wish I knew about needing to keep the engine running and on max AC with recirc.........well..........11 years ago now, when I had a '99 Dodge Ram with crap AC. Tried to use the fix in a can, couldn't get it to work right (it'd blow cold all of 10 minutes or so, in the humid South), and gave up. Pretty sure it had a leak somewhere in the system as the truck had almost 200k of hard miles when I got it. Good info Rich, keep it coming as always! 🙂
Pretty good, I'm glad you corrected yourself about checking it while not running. The only other thing I'd say, if it's cycling on and off, just hold the trigger down and check it once it stays on longer than off.
Seems like the cans a few years ago before the digital display did a better job at explaining the process. I remember getting an AC Pro can 5-6 years back and it told to slowly rotate the one 180 while charging. Glad to see the short cycling stopped and you got to your target pressure.
This was a high value video.... There some trade tips that r here that are not on the bottles . Like Injecting a lil liquid or adding gas when clutch engages if short cycling... I thought it was okay to keep the can upside down... I was potentially doing harm! Good technique to avoid overfill. I've been doing this service ever since I got my first LTC in 2004(91 executive, yeah!) And I learned something. Always stay learning, even if u think u know. Thank you Bruh!
hi rich great video very helpful this is what i am doing today i have put a small can of ac recharge 2 summer ago and last summer i notice it was not working as good anymore try puting a can in it and i was hearing a bad lick near the compressur it was the high side hose that some how got push on the pully and cut the rubber part of the hose i do have one to replace it need to know if i have to pull vacum now that i have every thing open i have 3 tall cans of ac rig and 1 small can of 2oz oil i am a diy guy i like to do my own work and this prestentation is really helping me out its a 2011 ford escape xlt v6 have it for 6 year now and did a complete overhual on the under side of this suv, love my escape. and thk you for what you do its people like you that make this world a better place to live on.😇
Hey boss 🤍 Someone's telling me "When changing a bad compressor, you need to put a new condensor as well, or else the new compressor goes bad". have u seen many cases where it's ok not to change the condensor on fords? With no comebacks We trust your expertise Much appreciated brother
The ac in my dB didn't work when I got it back from a tech. I tossed my Guage set on it and it was hitting 370psi on the high side and tripping the safety. I took it to my buddy shop and recovered it down to 180 psi and the suction line was pulling a vacuum. Recovered all of it and pulled the lineset off the firewall and the condenser used my air compressor to blow out evap and 6 evap was filled with nasty oil with water. Ordered a dryer. 2 days later I pulled ac compressor and drained the oil out and it looked new replaced with new oil pulled a vacuum on the system for 2hrs and refilled tell my low was 37 psi high was 223 psi. Per the book plus 15 it was 114f out that day
It would be nice if the manufacturer would give you a purge valve so you can get the ounce of moisture contaminated air out of the hose before you force it in your system !! They defiantly don't tell you that on the can.
In Canada all they ever had in the Cans was R12... for the public to buy at your local store, we have on Canadian tire, sort of like a harbor frieght i guess. Maybe more a Lowes. Now they have cans with the next stuff and even the lastest stuff...forgot the names, but yeah. Too many numbers and letters in a row, and i don't deal with it. Got a condensor with a gash in it... didn't wanna fuss with it BUT i might.
Yep it's called slugging the compressor when straight liquid refrigerant goes in I've liquid filled but am very careful with it and only use about 1/4 Oz or so or liquid at a time basically fill the sight glass with the liquid and close off the can and quickly turn on and off the low side valve on the gauge set for a second or two at a time cause it feels like the liquid fills the system faster and I only do it with the compressor going if it's not cycling I wait till it does and once it's running not short cycling and the pressure is good low and high side for the current temp and humidity I'm comfortable and I use the amount the OEM calls for
When you talked about not worth finding the leak. Is it worth the time to put soapy water on the high and low valve (cap off) and look for bubbles? What would you charge to replace those for someone if they were bubbling?
are those cans true 134a and not a blend mixture? those blended types cans ruin and contaminate shops very expensive ac machines so its very important info to know and relay to a shop if the cans don't fix the ac and you take it in for service.
Ebay put a stop to selling 30# jugs of R134. My jug ran out last summer, not really fond of spending $400 on a new one. I have a tray of cans for the mean time.
I'm sure I'm in the same boat as the S.U.V's; I have a Honda Odyssey with rear AC. I know it has a rear condenser as well as a front and I'm VERY sure it all runs off the same compressor. Haven't had to fill it yet (thankfully).
I have a leaking condenser 99% sure that is where the leak is at, well the new part is 150 bucks if I remember correctly and man I dont feel like digging the condenser out of the front end over the tiny leak for now. Ill fix it properly one day or sell the car before that day comes maybe it needs to go in a few years. With these cans I pay ~35$ for the 700g of refrigerant the system needs. The only thing im worried about is the compressor running out of oil eventually which would be a disaster. This will be the 2nd time im filling it up and im not concerned about contaminants in the system it always had positive pressure left and they actually have a low charge switch somewhere that will disable the compressor from coming on if the pressures are getting very low. Compressor takes 180ml of oil so I guess if that all leaked out id see that for sure.
My 2012 Scion TC the A/C compressor is engaged but is not cold at all and the electric fans won’t turn on either. All fuses and relays are ok. Now for the fun part: is it the fans are gone bad? The low side is not cold to the touch or with condensation. My A/C gauge is in the green zone when the compressor is running. What else could it be?
This is one of those situations where I really would like to see how I set pressure not just low side because of the compressor is turning and you got good low side pressure that means there may be some issue with flow or you could still have low charge just all depends on how your system reacts I would suggest taking it to somebody and having them diagnose it
Thanks. I did this about a year ago, following the directions on the can. I felt like the AC wasn't putting out the same as before but the pressure read in normal range. The car wasnt on and the AC wasnt running. I still have the same can so I'm going to go give it another try.
I accidentally overcharged my system with a diy can and had to bring it to a shop to get my ac compressor to work again. Honda pilot was 10 yrs old but be careful
Wow, another one, last A/C I did was still 134A. When did they change it to 1234 A🤔. Can you get R-12 🙄😉. Thanks for letting people know that there are things to do, to get it right. 🤗🙏♥️ Have a great day Rich , enjoy you in the shop. 🇺🇲 FROM THE OLD FART IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA 😎♥️✝️
I got an 89 Dakota.. the A/C actually kinda works..... but.. I have to try and recharge with the stuff that SAYS its compatible with R12.. hah. No way is it worth trying to convert it to R134a.. so I just keep sort of cool when it gets hot.
Hey, Boss. Is the compressor supposed to stay on the whole time if I have adequate refrigerant? I somehow thought the compressor still cycled even with proper level of refrigerant.
Whatever comes out you're supposed to put back in so you're going to have to find the special container I would say if you're going to recharge it quick no leave it alone you ain't got the ability to put the oil back in cuz there's no way for you to measure it if you're worried about putting the oil back in you're going to have to use an actual machine and let a professional do it
Not a fan of those spray fill bottles, before you can recharge any AC system you really should pull a vacuum minimum 10 mins to boil any moisture out of the system. I bought a vacuum pump and gauges off Amazon for around $100 with multiple fittings, once you vacuum the system then you can buy the cans that screw onto the gauge to refill it, note you will also need to add the correct PAG oil after replacement of AC components. Those quick fill cans are a joke in my book, fix it right the first time is my motto!! You'll need dye and black light to find pesky leaks...
Did you miss the point here? I think you clearly missed the point here this was the tutorial for people that don't have the means to take it to a shop they don't have the means to take it to somebody to get it fixed they're going to just try to do something themselves and there are those people out there this was to help them understand a little bit more about what's going on and I don't know how many times I mentioned it in the video which you clearly missed it really should go to a shop but if you're going to do it I would do it this way at minimum
@Ford Boss Me yeah I get it, but my OCD gets the best of me sometimes, I just would never do that...but I get some people who are desperate for AC when it's hot I can see why they would go that route!
"before you can recharge any AC system you really should pull a vacuum minimum 10 mins to boil any moisture out of the system" Why would there be any contaminants if the system retained positive pressure? The only issue I see with these DIY recharging cans is that you push whatever is in the fill hose into the system. 99% of the time thats just air. Is that little air on top of 700g of refrigerant going to hurt anything? You can purge the line by cracking the valve and connecting the quick coupler while refrigerant is flowing trough thats how the pros do it.
@YouShouldPracticeSelfImprovementAndNotBeOnUA-cam if you study AC systems you'll learn that when a system is severely low on refrigerant via leaks, moisture can enter the system, if there's ambient air then there is moisture. The moisture reacts with refrigerant and oil and forms hydrochloric acid that corrodes lines, clogs screens and damages components like the compressor. The oils are hygroscopic which means they absorb and hold moisture & reduces lubrication. When you study for ASE tests this will be one of many subjects. Brake fluid is similar in that it is hygroscopic and retains moisture, over time it breaks down and needs to be flushed.
They still have not returned the use of site glass, right. 🤔🙏✝️♥️🇺🇲. How things have changed! 🤔. That's why I enjoy your videos, bye the way if I annoy you let me know PLEASE!. 😏😳🤗✝️♥️🇺🇲
My understanding is that you should never invert the can and introduce liquid refrigerant to the compressor. This over-stresses the compressor to the point that you can do permanent damage. This is for piston-type compressors. If you have a radial compressor you can introduce liquid refrigerant with no consequences.
I was very clear in the video that if you don't know what you're doing or if you don't know the reason why I'm doing or saying what I'm doing with the can then you probably shouldn't be doing it You're not supposed to introduce liquid into the compressor like I am but you can speed things up if you know what you're doing by just a little shot a little shot a little shot a little shot and going back to the gas I do it on my personal vehicles because I know what I'm doing but I don't want anybody else to do it if you have to ask questions you shouldn't be doing it like I said in the video I was very clear about that
@@coreybabcock2023pull a vaccum for an hour. See if it leaks down. Find the label with the amount of charge the system calls for. Use manifold guage. Purge air lines before you add refrigerant. Add until the specified charge is reached. That's the only way I do it and the only way I will do it.
One quick note for others. If you're seeing short-cycles, but the trick explained here (depressing as the clutch runs) does not result in bit-by-bit longer cycles (and your low side just keeps climbing and climbing and climbing). But you notice, when the compressor IS running, the PSI is in the 'good' region described in this video (~35psi). Then stop - your low-pressure switch may be faulty and all you'll do at this point is over-fill the system. I've seen this too many times.
Thanks for the video. I've seen too many people try to do this on their vehicles sitting outside the parts store and they keep doing it wrong. One guy did his outside an Auto Zone about 8 to 10 years back and blew his system apart 2 cars down from me. Sounded like a small bomb. I saw him putting 3 cans about the size of the one you were using. He WAY overfilled it and it failed...badly. He wasn't injured but I bet his pants needed changing. Scared me 2 cars down thinking someone is shooting or something. And it's not the responsibility of the parts store to question if you're doing it right. That's on YOU. Once you understand HOW and THE RIGHT WAY you can do it. It's slow, like you showed, and I wouldn't use it as a constant fix but you can do it if you do it right. Mine had a leak a couple years ago so I filled it and within a week it wasn't working again. Come to find out the Schrader valve seal was bad, and I just wasted $60. Without the right equipment to drain the system, replace the valve, then pull it down into a vacuum so you can get all the air out, then fill it it's not something you should do yourself. I took mine in and had it done...after wasting that money on the can to fill it and just let it blow out into the air. Thanks again, bro. Take care.
It's not degrees you're not explaining this correctly and I'm not sure if you're just making a mistake it's pressure and humidity and temperature affects that so your numbers and what you said are not necessarily correct
If the new refrigerant is environmentally friendly why recover it and spend the extra time? I should add in a condition of the system being empty from leak or replacement of condenser etc
I have seen many systems damaged from over charging. Without a built in sight glass like the old days or a gauge set you are taking a big chance of damaging a system.
Typically you're not going to damage your system they have buffer zone as long as you keep the low side pressure within the specified range you're not going to damage a system
What i do is a visual inspect first. Aka dodge trucks. Replace the schraders. Now we are emptly. Insertt gas until compressor kicks on.. Watch inside temp in the vents. Use common sense dont overcharge. Good way to blow a compressor. I ride a bike all season thats my a/c . But i do a lot of a/c work in spring for others. A lot more can hapoen but i always use sealer on a system i never touched before as well. But dont listen to me, wasnt me lol. Rich is a great teacher. Or watch other channels and watch peolle do kore work than they need to and watch them struggle. Lol. Gravity sucks hahahahha.
You can feel the evaporator tube coming out? What are you even talking about to me I'm not lying that doesn't make sense but you could mean something and you're just not explaining it correctly
When the evaporator floods you will feel a significant temperature drop,it doesn't work very well with the variable displacement compressor,I've been doing a.c. work for 50 years and that has I have always done it of course it's best to have guages on with unknown system
Forgot to mention that the system needs to be vacuumed down before adding refrigerant cause it needs to be moisture free and free of any other contaminates too good way to leak check the system too
Any time you do ac service work you should use an ac recovery machine recover refrigerant pull vacume and recharge. But if you don't have all that at least pull a vacuum and recharge.
You are correct but you don't get to determine what I do with my vehicle and not do with my vehic le so stick around learn something if you have negative things to say then move on about your business and don't say anything at all or else I'll remove you that's just how it works here you don't control the show I'm the ringleader and you're just either passing by or joining the group of technicians that do things positively as a whole
Thanks for doing this video. Just to add here for the homegamers, a couple of things to check while you are attempting a home recharge. Make sure the cooling fans are operating. If the fans are not coming on when the compressor is engaged, this needs to be addressed ASAP. Not only will it impact A/C system performance at stops or in stop and go traffic, but your engine WILL overheat eventually. During FBMs video, you can hear the cooling fan on the GMC come on as the compressor began to cycle on. Significant refrigerant leak. If you start adding refrigerant and almost immediately notice a whitish mist coming from the front or the car or one of the lines, stop immediately and get the leak addressed. I've seen these cans in AutoZone and just thought they were some off-brand fake refrigerant replacement. Had to deal with that as a tech in the 1990s.
If you have any questions about whether or not you should be doing this I would recommend you seek professional help and go to a shop and if you don't feel confident proceeding on your own after this video and you are still unsure about what to do please seek professional help and go to a shop
Wish I had the machine to do it I could learn more and make money this summer
Na fam I pay the big bucs for the ice cube juice from Toyota dealership !!don’t play wit it don’t play wit it don’t play wit it. 😂
My tundra was leaking off every summer, i finally pulled a vacuum and noticed my high side valve was leaking. Lasted all winter this year. Anyway throwing a little oil charge every so often helps with a system that bleeds off.
@@TOLDyouSOagain id replace that shrader Valve though
@@coreybabcock2023 i did, thats why i didnt have to fill it this year. Glad i found the leak
5 minute videos are for Zombies. Best 29 minutes of my life. You the best.
Oh wow, I appreciate that!
I remember last year you did a video on an explorer with a No AC complaint. It was way overcharged. That video made me decide to stay away from cans since then. I appreciate this to put my mind at ease. Thanks for more great content
Just gotta know your system capacity and temperatures make sure the EVAP and condenser coil is clean to get good results
@Corey Babcock I haven't the slightest clue how to check it but UA-cam has my back
Great video Rich! I had to figure this out by trial and error years ago. I know this video will help others avoid charging their A/C by trial and error like I had to do years ago. Keep up the great DIY videos as well as your professional videos and information as well! God bless!
Rich back in the day I used to run my AC for about 15 minutes in the winter just to keep everything lubricated and working but today on modern cars when you go to defrost or press the defrost button the climate control computer engages the compressor for a quicker defrost for your windshield anyway! Thanks for the explanation on the low and high side I did this about two years ago on the Subaru but just had a manual gauge is not a digital one and I was trying to figure out which reading was more important with the compressor on or total system pressure when it’s cycled off on the can it really doesn’t explain that to you I’m really glad you were able to explain to people the difference!
My 98 Ford e250 engages the compressor during defrost works very fast too
A lot of newer cars have swash plate compressors so there is no clutch activating them, they run all the time.
It's truly amazing how many people don't listen and read your pinned comments. You did a great job explaining what, why and how and still some came out of the woodwork and went full blown technical. Be well Rich👊
Urr the man. Alot of" Auto Experts" online but you sir are always just giving it to us str8. No fluff, filler or BS. I love what u do. I only have 1 gripe, My gr8 grandma always said this, It takes the same amount of time to be kind as it does to be a Bhole. Same amount of effort, same amount of work. Difference is when we be kind it leaves 2 ppl happier, You and me. Love the message. We need this. 2 much BS about small things. We have alot more in common than we do not. This world could sure use some kindness, common sense, courtesy, and respect. After all, Men can be women too. Lmfao. Jk. Just a jab to my abcdefg ppl. She used to also say kill them with kindness. The best revenge is to live a life full of love, care and happiness.
Hello Boss Man Fans and Fellow Carhaulics: Rich this was a nice AC recharge video. Your demonstration & narration was perfect. Thank you sir & God Bless to you & the family, TMP from N.J.
My a/c is running strong since you changed it last year. I used it today as my first time of the season & I got cold. Your knowledge is valuable to me. Thank you for teaching us
Agree
Yeah, there is just something special about Rich. Out of the blue he let me be a monitor first time I really believed the damn internet. It is so cool to to have to watch my language ha can't take the country out this 73 year old DNA.
Great video Rich. I'm sure glad you did this and explained it all. My only question I had was tipping the can upside-down and pulling the trigger at the same time. I always just tipped the can from the beginning, I guess I was doing it all wrong. Thanks
You have to think about it like this when you tip the can upside down on the suction side you're introducing liquid right into the AC compressor and you don't want to do that because the AC compressor compresses gases not liquid and you can destroy the system if you're not careful
@@FordBossMe thanks Rich very much appreciated 👍🏻
I like this but I learned my lesson on doing this myself. I did this when I was younger and ruined a compressor in my car.
Now when it comes to AC work I take it to a professional who has the proper equipment.
This is my personal experience.
They have the machine to recover and install the proper charge that's why
@@coreybabcock2023 yep it may cost more but to me it's worth it
@@midwestpanther98 agree id rather you get good quality service
Thanks for another educational video,now i can refill my neighbors a/c so she can be cool this summer.i trust you100% with your videos.keep them coming Rich.
Yeah I would have bailed out when it got up to 70 psi and nothing was happening. Helpful video to explain what’s actually going on.
I'm glad you took the time to understand and watch
Appreciate the video, worth the shot to recharge a system on my old used car, would not really fix it if its gone anyways, 50 buck gamble for cold air I will give err a go.
That was Fantastic!! I really learned a lot and I feel very confident I could help someone under the right circumstances.
Thanks for sharing one of the best videos.
Glad it was helpful!
I don't recommend these types of cans unless, you have no other choice. I regular R-134A cans to recharge my Honda Accord. I took the face value of the weight published on the can, However, when I began to experience noises within the expansion valve (it was a new Denso valve) I suspected it was overfilled. I took it to a well known HVAC shop in my area. Sure enough, it was overfilled by .68 lbs. The shop claimed these containers are not accurately measured/weighed during manufacturing. Sometimes, they are overfilled (in my case, one of the R-134A containers was the culprit. Please, take your vehicle to a shop to have it diagnosed and properly filed with the respective freon. Even someone that has worked in a shop for years, learned something that day.
Well people can make a lot of claims but if you do it within the ballpark of the restraints I've laid out here for you you're going to be fine but this was indeed specified as somebody trying to show a DIY person how not to grenade their AC compressor so you can't be too critical of this video and if you choose to well the problem is yours not mine because I've laid out all the disclaimers here
Thanks for the info Rich! Idk ive always been in the opinion of if your A/C isnt working correctly, have it diagnosed and fixed correctly instead of spending money repeatedly on the A/C cans.
Not to say that the A/C recharge cans dont have a purpose in repairs, but personally, i would rather have my system repaired correctly the first time by a professional like yourself so i that i dont have to keep messing with it. rather than continue to spend money on these cans every so often.
Just seems to be the most cost efficient in most cases (obviously situation dependent). Just my opinion though.
excellent video /i learned a lot watching this /i thought the compressor was shot but i just needed more patience and more info on the can
Many people need to seek professional help ;-) Thanks for a great video.
I need professional help, but I can top of my a.c. with auto zones can a.c refill.
Most people nowadays need professional help that can't be found at the shop. I know one guy that "didn't notice the grinding sounds" and destroyed all but a caliper in his rear end. I think we found remnants of two pads when we tore into that car
😵💫
By the way I am so proud of Valvoline for getting the great reviews you and others have been giving it. I only use Valvoline, 40yr. or so. BACK IN THE DAY I ONLY USED, 20/50 RACING, AND A PREMIUM FRAM, THINK IT WAS CALLED, GOLD OIL. K&N FOR MY AIR FILTERS, REUSABLE 👍 I HAD A, DATSUN 510 WAGON DUAL POINTS 🤔👍,68 CHEVY EL-CAMINO 283 V-8, 98 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE, LERADO 4.0 STRAIGHT 6 CYLINDER, AUTOMATIC. SORRY I GOT DISTRACTED BY THE OIL. BACK TO THE A/C. 🙄🤗🙏✝️♥️😉.
I like getting up in the morning first thing automotive reasoning to start my day. Thanks!
Just came across this video. It was the best out of all the videos I’ve seen. Thank you very much for that and your time. One question. Majority of your video you had the can upright pulling the trigger while the compressor cycled on. Towards the end of the video you tilted the can, pressing the trigger, why was that? Thank you very much.
Just a tip to Rich's viewers, buy an A/C Thermometer and leave it in the center vent. If your "Normal" operating temp is say 40dreg, then you will see it start to creep up when your refringent is getting low. say in 45/50 dreg. That is when you can add and the system will not be empty. And learn what a "normal" run time sounds like for your car.
Thanks for the share. Okay so who remembers when a can of R-12 was 16oz, hey that's a pound🤣
I remember when you could pick up a can of R-12 for less than $2. I had about half a case (pre-embargo) until last year. Gave it to a friend restoring an early 70s Pontiac. The R-12 system on it was still intact and sealed, he didn't want to spend the coin to convert to R-134a.
Just remembered dealing with the nightmare of all the fake refrigerants that were being marketed in the 1990s.
Still have my R-12 fill hose and can fitting.
Great video. I purchased a gauge set and vacuum pump from harbor freight, best money I have spent
I had rear ac leak in 2013 Ford explorer, and this kit came in handy. Thanks for that video as well!
Rich, I enjoyed your presentation. My preference is to use my gauge set, yet have an appreciation for the can method you demonstrated when short of time, etc.
Again, nice work. There's enough detail in the video for one to do it correctly and not overthink it.
Enjoy your day!
Topped up the A/C in my Honda accord 2 summers ago cause it was low. It was still cool but the passenger side colder than the driver side. Used the A/C pro with the leak sealer and it’s been going good since then. It was 100 degrees last summer and I was still getting 30 degrees blowing out of all vents
I wish I knew about needing to keep the engine running and on max AC with recirc.........well..........11 years ago now, when I had a '99 Dodge Ram with crap AC. Tried to use the fix in a can, couldn't get it to work right (it'd blow cold all of 10 minutes or so, in the humid South), and gave up. Pretty sure it had a leak somewhere in the system as the truck had almost 200k of hard miles when I got it. Good info Rich, keep it coming as always! 🙂
Pretty good, I'm glad you corrected yourself about checking it while not running. The only other thing I'd say, if it's cycling on and off, just hold the trigger down and check it once it stays on longer than off.
I covered that
Seems like the cans a few years ago before the digital display did a better job at explaining the process. I remember getting an AC Pro can 5-6 years back and it told to slowly rotate the one 180 while charging. Glad to see the short cycling stopped and you got to your target pressure.
Thanks for the AC recharge tutorial. I dont think you could have explained that any better my friend. Thank you Steve Westmoreland 👨🏻🦳♿️🇬🇧🛠️🛠️🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟👍👍
Thanks! Much Appreciated. God Bless.
This was a high value video....
There some trade tips that r here that are not on the bottles . Like Injecting a lil liquid or adding gas when clutch engages if short cycling...
I thought it was okay to keep the can upside down... I was potentially doing harm!
Good technique to avoid overfill.
I've been doing this service ever since I got my first LTC in 2004(91 executive, yeah!) And I learned something.
Always stay learning, even if u think u know.
Thank you Bruh!
Glad it helped
That is easier than I thought. Thank You VERY much.
Learned some new tricks. Good video. Thanks
Glad to hear it!
hi rich great video very helpful this is what i am doing today i have put a small can of ac recharge 2 summer ago and last summer i notice it was not working as good anymore try puting a can in it and i was hearing a bad lick near the compressur it was the high side hose that some how got push on the pully and cut the rubber part of the hose i do have one to replace it need to know if i have to pull vacum now that i have every thing open i have 3 tall cans of ac rig and 1 small can of 2oz oil i am a diy guy i like to do my own work and this prestentation is really helping me out its a 2011 ford escape xlt v6 have it for 6 year now and did a complete overhual on the under side of this suv, love my escape. and thk you for what you do its people like you that make this world a better place to live on.😇
Just be careful with ac work
Is there a way to prime the hose as not to introduce outside air into the system? Can you give it a little squirt before hooking up the hose?
Ehhh yes
Hey boss 🤍
Someone's telling me
"When changing a bad compressor, you need to put a new condensor as well, or else the new compressor goes bad".
have u seen many cases where it's ok not to change the condensor on fords? With no comebacks
We trust your expertise Much appreciated brother
That was a great video I love the information. Been going that a long time and i learned alot one that one
A lot on that one sorry for the spelling
R12 worked well. I remember frost on the vents of my dads 76 Buick LeSabre😊
Another fantastic video from FBM.Thanks Rich, hope all is well with you and yours.UDAMAN!!!!!!!!
Same to you!
We had a 1999 expedition that I had to recharge every couple of years. The a/c system outlasted the engine which died at 394k
The ac in my dB didn't work when I got it back from a tech. I tossed my Guage set on it and it was hitting 370psi on the high side and tripping the safety. I took it to my buddy shop and recovered it down to 180 psi and the suction line was pulling a vacuum. Recovered all of it and pulled the lineset off the firewall and the condenser used my air compressor to blow out evap and 6 evap was filled with nasty oil with water. Ordered a dryer.
2 days later I pulled ac compressor and drained the oil out and it looked new replaced with new oil pulled a vacuum on the system for 2hrs and refilled tell my low was 37 psi high was 223 psi. Per the book plus 15 it was 114f out that day
It would be nice if the manufacturer would give you a purge valve so you can get the ounce of moisture contaminated air out of the hose before you force it in your system !! They defiantly don't tell you that on the can.
It's hard to do that with the system running anyway
Thanks, great video!
Very helpful. Thanks, Rich.
Great video
I’m not a fan of the can but a guys gotta do what a guys gotta do sometimes.
Same here
Learning on the job
I just re-charged my 1999 4runner last month. Easy peasy and it’s 🧊 COLD. Walmart had em for $35 if I remember correctly. Normal gauge no digital.
My preference
i heard you shouldn't put leak stop in the system because it messes up the compressor. is that true?
This is true don't put stop leak in there
@@FordBossMe alot of those has leak stop in them
@@raydaum5050 make sure you get the one that doesn't have it then
In Canada all they ever had in the Cans was R12... for the public to buy at your local store, we have on Canadian tire, sort of like a harbor frieght i guess. Maybe more a Lowes. Now they have cans with the next stuff and even the lastest stuff...forgot the names, but yeah. Too many numbers and letters in a row, and i don't deal with it. Got a condensor with a gash in it... didn't wanna fuss with it BUT i might.
Yep it's called slugging the compressor when straight liquid refrigerant goes in I've liquid filled but am very careful with it and only use about 1/4 Oz or so or liquid at a time basically fill the sight glass with the liquid and close off the can and quickly turn on and off the low side valve on the gauge set for a second or two at a time cause it feels like the liquid fills the system faster and I only do it with the compressor going if it's not cycling I wait till it does and once it's running not short cycling and the pressure is good low and high side for the current temp and humidity I'm comfortable and I use the amount the OEM calls for
LOL Rich, if your static pressure was initially 5, you have a pretty bad leak somewhere. High side bleeds to low side when shut down.
Didn't leak at all since then
I'm not worried about the leak as of now
When you talked about not worth finding the leak. Is it worth the time to put soapy water on the high and low valve (cap off) and look for bubbles?
What would you charge to replace those for someone if they were bubbling?
It's 150$ service + Refrigerant
Yes
are those cans true 134a and not a blend mixture? those blended types cans ruin and contaminate shops very expensive ac machines so its very important info to know and relay to a shop if the cans don't fix the ac and you take it in for service.
I showed, they were straight
Ebay put a stop to selling 30# jugs of R134. My jug ran out last summer, not really fond of spending $400 on a new one. I have a tray of cans for the mean time.
Wish I could have got a jug
Great video. Those cans are irresponsible for not properly explaining the process.
I'm sure I'm in the same boat as the S.U.V's; I have a Honda Odyssey with rear AC. I know it has a rear condenser as well as a front and I'm VERY sure it all runs off the same compressor. Haven't had to fill it yet (thankfully).
I was diggin the tunes at az hehe your engine bay looks pretty clean on your GMC
I keep it clean
Looks like new, what do u spray it down with all-purpose cleaner and a rag or you go all out with power wash,???
I have a leaking condenser 99% sure that is where the leak is at, well the new part is 150 bucks if I remember correctly and man I dont feel like digging the condenser out of the front end over the tiny leak for now.
Ill fix it properly one day or sell the car before that day comes maybe it needs to go in a few years.
With these cans I pay ~35$ for the 700g of refrigerant the system needs.
The only thing im worried about is the compressor running out of oil eventually which would be a disaster. This will be the 2nd time im filling it up and im not concerned about contaminants in the system it always had positive pressure left and they actually have a low charge switch somewhere that will disable the compressor from coming on if the pressures are getting very low.
Compressor takes 180ml of oil so I guess if that all leaked out id see that for sure.
Good info boss
My 2012 Scion TC the A/C compressor is engaged but is not cold at all and the electric fans won’t turn on either. All fuses and relays are ok. Now for the fun part: is it the fans are gone bad? The low side is not cold to the touch or with condensation. My A/C gauge is in the green zone when the compressor is running. What else could it be?
This is one of those situations where I really would like to see how I set pressure not just low side because of the compressor is turning and you got good low side pressure that means there may be some issue with flow or you could still have low charge just all depends on how your system reacts I would suggest taking it to somebody and having them diagnose it
Thanks for the Intel brother.
Thanks. I did this about a year ago, following the directions on the can. I felt like the AC wasn't putting out the same as before but the pressure read in normal range. The car wasnt on and the AC wasnt running. I still have the same can so I'm going to go give it another try.
I just use an old A/C can hose to a vacuum port and let the engine vac pull it down on my old 91 GMC ,.
Is this the same for toyotas too can I follow this proces ?
Yes
Watch this video he tells you exactly what to do
You need to come out west bro , you could be making good money out here in Vegas.
Oil Pese 6:27 nt ? Ni my wrench Brother. Close to Guru !.
But . Amsoil 0w20 GF-6.
# 1.
Thank you Rich
I accidentally overcharged my system with a diy can and had to bring it to a shop to get my ac compressor to work again. Honda pilot was 10 yrs old but be careful
That's why I gave the directions I did
@@FordBossMe I even followed the so called pressure gauge that was included but I still messed it up haha. Thanks for all the videos!
Just did this last week on my sister's car. Arizona 100 deg today. I put can and half every year. Not worth fixing for 20 oz of 134a .
Wow, another one, last A/C I did was still 134A. When did they change it to 1234 A🤔. Can you get R-12 🙄😉. Thanks for letting people know that there are things to do, to get it right. 🤗🙏♥️ Have a great day Rich , enjoy you in the shop. 🇺🇲 FROM THE OLD FART IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA 😎♥️✝️
R12 isn't sold in stores anymore
You might be able to find R-12 on E-bay but be sitting down when you read the price....
I got an 89 Dakota.. the A/C actually kinda works..... but.. I have to try and recharge with the stuff that SAYS its compatible with R12.. hah. No way is it worth trying to convert it to R134a.. so I just keep sort of cool when it gets hot.
Does it surprise anyone else that we’re literally making refrigerant with microchips now? Why do you need Bluetooth to fill refrigerant?
Hey, Boss. Is the compressor supposed to stay on the whole time if I have adequate refrigerant? I somehow thought the compressor still cycled even with proper level of refrigerant.
It's dependent on the type of compressor you have
Last time I recharged some oil seemed to come out the low side, should I add some pag?
Whatever comes out you're supposed to put back in so you're going to have to find the special container I would say if you're going to recharge it quick no leave it alone you ain't got the ability to put the oil back in cuz there's no way for you to measure it if you're worried about putting the oil back in you're going to have to use an actual machine and let a professional do it
@@FordBossMe gotcha, I was thinking of just putting a few 2-3 drops . Thanks for responding I appreciate it
I hope you request your military/veteran discount when you shop at these parts places.
I don't at times
@@FordBossMe I didn't for two and half decades. I have now for the last handful of years. If they didn't want you to they wouldn't offer the discount.
one question, some of these refill cans have sealers in them. Should we stay away from these cans?
Yes no sealers
Not a fan of those spray fill bottles, before you can recharge any AC system you really should pull a vacuum minimum 10 mins to boil any moisture out of the system. I bought a vacuum pump and gauges off Amazon for around $100 with multiple fittings, once you vacuum the system then you can buy the cans that screw onto the gauge to refill it, note you will also need to add the correct PAG oil after replacement of AC components. Those quick fill cans are a joke in my book, fix it right the first time is my motto!! You'll need dye and black light to find pesky leaks...
Did you miss the point here? I think you clearly missed the point here this was the tutorial for people that don't have the means to take it to a shop they don't have the means to take it to somebody to get it fixed they're going to just try to do something themselves and there are those people out there this was to help them understand a little bit more about what's going on and I don't know how many times I mentioned it in the video which you clearly missed it really should go to a shop but if you're going to do it I would do it this way at minimum
@Ford Boss Me yeah I get it, but my OCD gets the best of me sometimes, I just would never do that...but I get some people who are desperate for AC when it's hot I can see why they would go that route!
"before you can recharge any AC system you really should pull a vacuum minimum 10 mins to boil any moisture out of the system"
Why would there be any contaminants if the system retained positive pressure?
The only issue I see with these DIY recharging cans is that you push whatever is in the fill hose into the system. 99% of the time thats just air.
Is that little air on top of 700g of refrigerant going to hurt anything?
You can purge the line by cracking the valve and connecting the quick coupler while refrigerant is flowing trough thats how the pros do it.
@YouShouldPracticeSelfImprovementAndNotBeOnUA-cam if you study AC systems you'll learn that when a system is severely low on refrigerant via leaks, moisture can enter the system, if there's ambient air then there is moisture. The moisture reacts with refrigerant and oil and forms hydrochloric acid that corrodes lines, clogs screens and damages components like the compressor. The oils are hygroscopic which means they absorb and hold moisture & reduces lubrication. When you study for ASE tests this will be one of many subjects. Brake fluid is similar in that it is hygroscopic and retains moisture, over time it breaks down and needs to be flushed.
They still have not returned the use of site glass, right. 🤔🙏✝️♥️🇺🇲. How things have changed! 🤔. That's why I enjoy your videos, bye the way if I annoy you let me know PLEASE!. 😏😳🤗✝️♥️🇺🇲
Sometimes my 98 Ford van ac dont seem to blow cold but pressures read right for the current temp at the time I test it
Wow, my wife has the 1234 in it and Honda wants $400 to recharge it after I put the compressor in it!
Go to harbor freight and get a vacuum pump. Put a vacuum on it and recharge if you feel confident
@Tyler Gunn Will Do that,Appreciate it!
Good info!
What is the rule about keeping the can upright or turning it upside down as it's empty and into the system
I'd see a shop if you need to get your system serviced
My understanding is that you should never invert the can and introduce liquid refrigerant to the compressor. This over-stresses the compressor to the point that you can do permanent damage. This is for piston-type compressors. If you have a radial compressor you can introduce liquid refrigerant with no consequences.
Fs10 compressors are a 5 piston design
I was very clear in the video that if you don't know what you're doing or if you don't know the reason why I'm doing or saying what I'm doing with the can then you probably shouldn't be doing it
You're not supposed to introduce liquid into the compressor like I am but you can speed things up if you know what you're doing by just a little shot a little shot a little shot a little shot and going back to the gas I do it on my personal vehicles because I know what I'm doing but I don't want anybody else to do it if you have to ask questions you shouldn't be doing it like I said in the video I was very clear about that
@@coreybabcock2023pull a vaccum for an hour. See if it leaks down. Find the label with the amount of charge the system calls for. Use manifold guage. Purge air lines before you add refrigerant. Add until the specified charge is reached. That's the only way I do it and the only way I will do it.
One quick note for others. If you're seeing short-cycles, but the trick explained here (depressing as the clutch runs) does not result in bit-by-bit longer cycles (and your low side just keeps climbing and climbing and climbing). But you notice, when the compressor IS running, the PSI is in the 'good' region described in this video (~35psi). Then stop - your low-pressure switch may be faulty and all you'll do at this point is over-fill the system. I've seen this too many times.
Thanks for the video. I've seen too many people try to do this on their vehicles sitting outside the parts store and they keep doing it wrong. One guy did his outside an Auto Zone about 8 to 10 years back and blew his system apart 2 cars down from me. Sounded like a small bomb. I saw him putting 3 cans about the size of the one you were using. He WAY overfilled it and it failed...badly. He wasn't injured but I bet his pants needed changing. Scared me 2 cars down thinking someone is shooting or something. And it's not the responsibility of the parts store to question if you're doing it right. That's on YOU. Once you understand HOW and THE RIGHT WAY you can do it. It's slow, like you showed, and I wouldn't use it as a constant fix but you can do it if you do it right. Mine had a leak a couple years ago so I filled it and within a week it wasn't working again. Come to find out the Schrader valve seal was bad, and I just wasted $60. Without the right equipment to drain the system, replace the valve, then pull it down into a vacuum so you can get all the air out, then fill it it's not something you should do yourself. I took mine in and had it done...after wasting that money on the can to fill it and just let it blow out into the air. Thanks again, bro. Take care.
You should not be below 34 degrees because it could freeze up and above 45 and it will not cool properly.
I've always done 134a at 35 psi for a 40 deg coil,that is textbook coil temp.That is also at 1500 rpm.
It's not degrees you're not explaining this correctly and I'm not sure if you're just making a mistake it's pressure and humidity and temperature affects that so your numbers and what you said are not necessarily correct
Peter yes
If the new refrigerant is environmentally friendly why recover it and spend the extra time? I should add in a condition of the system being empty from leak or replacement of condenser etc
It's not they say
I’ve put more ounces in my system, beer that is 😊
I have seen many systems damaged from over charging. Without a built in sight glass like the old days or a gauge set you are taking a big chance of damaging a system.
Typically you're not going to damage your system they have buffer zone as long as you keep the low side pressure within the specified range you're not going to damage a system
What i do is a visual inspect first. Aka dodge trucks. Replace the schraders. Now we are emptly.
Insertt gas until compressor kicks on.. Watch inside temp in the vents. Use common sense dont overcharge.
Good way to blow a compressor.
I ride a bike all season thats my a/c .
But i do a lot of a/c work in spring for others.
A lot more can hapoen but i always use sealer on a system i never touched before as well.
But dont listen to me, wasnt me lol.
Rich is a great teacher.
Or watch other channels and watch peolle do kore work than they need to and watch them struggle. Lol.
Gravity sucks hahahahha.
Olser dodge trucks used a steel accumulator and rot out in the aalt belt.
Also if your up to preassure and tye comp isn't running the preassure sensor that tells the comp to run just may be bad.
You can feel the evaporator tube coming out of the vehicle when it is flooded
You can feel the evaporator tube coming out? What are you even talking about to me I'm not lying that doesn't make sense but you could mean something and you're just not explaining it correctly
When the evaporator floods you will feel a significant temperature drop,it doesn't work very well with the variable displacement compressor,I've been doing a.c. work for 50 years and that has I have always done it of course it's best to have guages on with unknown system
This is a good video to help people. Rich, what about the kits that come with a separate can of stop leak for your A/C? Good, bad or indifferent?
Somebody already brought that up in the comment section and I already address that
I would not use stop leak
@@FordBossMe me too it cloggs things up
@@FordBossMe Thank you bud, I'll keep that in mind when I do a recharge on mine.
You should test the amsoil oil see how good it is
I don't know what you're talking about I've already tested Amsoil oil if you look in the library and you do the homework you'll see that
Rich if you turn can upsidedown, do they still dump liquid, not anymore 🤔🇺🇲
Oh it still dumps liquid
@@FordBossMe m
Forgot to mention that the system needs to be vacuumed down before adding refrigerant cause it needs to be moisture free and free of any other contaminates too good way to leak check the system too
That won't apply to this situation - I didn't forget to mention it I just flat out didn't because if you are using a can YOU CANT vacuum
@@FordBossMe makes sense cause most people won't have a vac pump and gauge set
Any time you do ac service work you should use an ac recovery machine recover refrigerant pull vacume and recharge. But if you don't have all that at least pull a vacuum and recharge.
Should be fixing the leak
You are correct but you don't get to determine what I do with my vehicle and not do with my vehic le so stick around learn something if you have negative things to say then move on about your business and don't say anything at all or else I'll remove you that's just how it works here you don't control the show I'm the ringleader and you're just either passing by or joining the group of technicians that do things positively as a whole
Thanks for doing this video. Just to add here for the homegamers, a couple of things to check while you are attempting a home recharge.
Make sure the cooling fans are operating. If the fans are not coming on when the compressor is engaged, this needs to be addressed ASAP. Not only will it impact A/C system performance at stops or in stop and go traffic, but your engine WILL overheat eventually. During FBMs video, you can hear the cooling fan on the GMC come on as the compressor began to cycle on.
Significant refrigerant leak. If you start adding refrigerant and almost immediately notice a whitish mist coming from the front or the car or one of the lines, stop immediately and get the leak addressed.
I've seen these cans in AutoZone and just thought they were some off-brand fake refrigerant replacement. Had to deal with that as a tech in the 1990s.
I specifically did not want to get into any of this for reasons but I appreciate the extra input
I thought you were supposed turn can upside-down1998 explorer
No you can destroy your AC compressor by doing it that way