I'm a truck driver and doing some work on my truck saves me a ton of money and with just this video you saved me around $2000.00 bucks. I thank you and God bless you.
I know these are older comments, but I’m going to throw this out there anyway, just be careful , I killed the compressor in a freight liner, that cost goes way up when it gets screwed up and your buying parts and not just cans of liquid. I recommend you plan out a step by step procedure and follow it carefully and try to limit distractions while you preform the job. If I would have done something like that I wouldn’t have had to buy that compressor. Good luck my friend.
I've been a formerly certified mechanic for a mere 20 years now(started with my dad, to a business and now on my own).I've been telling people I know jack smack about HVAC on a vehicle. I couldn't take it anymore. Watched this video all the way. Now I can add a new extremely basic service for ac recharges. We are in Texas, AC is year round these days except for 2 months. Thank you sir. This is a blessing from God and you shared your bread with others. I'll cherish it.
Using my manifold set- I'm recharging through the low Port ONLY- the low Port coupling is obviously open. My question is-your highport coupling is open so this way you can READ the pressure on the manifold gauge... The High valve on the manifold gauge NEEDS to be closed...BUT the coupling on the high side is OPEN for reading on the manifold gauge? Is that last part correct??
@@coyoteserranoband Yes, follow what he did in the video. Close the big red knob before connecting the refrigerant in fact, close both knobs ( blue and Red low|high ) before connecting the yellow service line to the refrigerant. open the blue knob after you bleed the yellow line of air and open that knob only at the manifold and very slowly.
I'm 50 years old, have been working on cars for 35 of those years, and am quite arrogant. But I cannot believe how much I learned while watching this video!
Just a quick FYI from a licensed residential HVAC technician, the top port on the vacuum pump is for a normal residential ac hose hook up, not out dated lmao! It’s appears the vacuum pump can do ur home ac or vehicle. A lil late but thought I’d help u guys out with that tidbit 😊
@@SMOKEY-JAYS-DIESELIt’s for ALL applications other than automotive, and is not specific to ANY refrigerant. It’s a 1/4” Flare fitting. The collet QD fittings are ONLY used on newer automotive systems.
Thank you very much for your video! Since my husband passed away, I have learned to do many car repairs thanks to kind people like you who share knowledge! I have replaced my vvt solenoids, my blower motor, the ac circuit board, changed the oil, and more. I am now hoping to get my ac running again because this 100 degree temperature in Houston is killer. Not to mention, only 1 of my windows rolls doen, my car is black, and I work as a window cleaner outside. I am sure my coworkers would be happy if I can get my ac working...lol! Thanks again!
NO WAY IM IN THAT SITUATION RIGHT NOW. I live in Houston, AC system went out, only one window works and car is black... Will be attempting to fix it myself.
I’ve charged my a/c a couple times. And I refresh my mind when I do it. And this really is the best video I’ve come across. And I like how you re-iterate the Do’s and Don’ts.
Thanks a ton for the video! First timer here - I was able to successfully vacuum and recharge my Truck thanks to this video. I was so happy that I started singing "Hallelujah" when the cold air started coming out of the vents. The vacuum test gave me confidence that I had put the new condenser back together properly. Thanks again!
To say the least, great video. I have been servicing my vehcile's A/C system for almost ten years, and this young man helped me learn something new. Thank you!
Appreciate the video man, went to Harbor freight and picked up everything I needed to get this done. Never leaving my truck for hours at a shop to get this done again!
Followed this guide and purchased the recommended kit on amazon, about two hours after it arrived I had my AC fixed and blowing colder and stronger than I can remember! Thank you for an excellent and helpful video!
@@LandenBMS I did not, my system used about 4 12oz cans of Super Tech 134a refrigerant I got at Walmart along with a can or two of AC refrigerant oil from the same source.
The most descriptive demo that I've seen on UA-cam in this field. Your expertise is 'spot on'. A pleasure to learn from you. Thank you. LWJ Qld, Australia.
God bless you for this. I have the entire dealership's maintenance and repair manual from GM for my 2003 Chevy Silverado Z71, and 95 percent of it pertains to other trucks. I spent days trying to understand something bigger than an NYC phonebook, and you explained more than it could in all of a few minutes!
I know that it’s taught about the efficiency of liquid charging, but few people know that it also builds head pressure very quickly, and has, on more than one occasion, damaged compressors, and even blown up discharge hoses. If I’m not being paid by the hour to do it, I am more than content to babysit the damn thing and gas charge, then, there is little to no chance of slugging the compressor. Unless the system is a walk-in cooler or something, the time saved by liquid charging is really not worth the damage it could do. I will say that I have learned some things from this video, however. Keep up the good work of making sure that people out there realize the potential they have to hurt themselves if they don’t do this correctly.
One of the best instructional videos I've seen yet. Your demo and step by step explanations are perfect for the average person with little to no experience in performing this procedure. You have saved many who watch this, tons of $$$$. Great job! 👍🏼
I’m not one to leave reviews but your instructional video was spot on!! You were clear with important information, didn’t drag out everything like a lot of videos I’ve watched! Thanks a bunch
I NEVER like videos or follow someone unless it's just the best information in the world for me. You sir, are the best. You explain soooo thoroughly each step that you answered all my questions. Most people skip the steps they think are obvious and common sense but then other people who are just following steps end up skipping important parts
We say turn the bottle upside down because we "crack" the valve open where it is released as a GAS not liquid in the gauge set, and again once it enters the system. You can do it either way. Also leave the high side valve closed when vacuuming down, it wont vacuum faster with the valve open, it equalizes through the orifice or expansion valve, no problem.
Watched another highly viewed YT video on the same subject and couldn't get it to take a charge. Set me back about a week. The instruction to keep the high side valve closed was never mentioned in the other video. It made all the difference! That one detail and that it was written on the valve handle. My car took the R134 like a champ after I closed the valve. Many Thanks Sir!
This saved my Bacon. I replaced a line that blew off. I'd installed my AC 6 years ago- my one and only experience w/AC- and had forgotten how to use the manifold gauges and vacuum pump. Great write up and greatly appreciated.
What a great video! I'm a reasonably skilled DIY mechanic and 2 elements of a car befuddle me: Automatic trans and A/C. No more on the A/C! This is so well done and explained perfectly that I can work confidently on my car's system. Thank You!!!
For everyone asking "Why is there a high side valve if we don't open it?!" It is there to vacuum it down the system a little quicker. The reason I said don't open it is the system is a loop and just vacuuming via the low side will accomplish the same goal a bit slower. BUT if you forget to close the high side when you turn the car on with the keg attached the system pressurizes with the valve open it back feeds into the refrigerant keg and explodes most likely injuring if not killing you. Good? Good. ALSO You don't need to add any in this instance because nearly zero is lost. If you put too much oil in the system won't work at all and is very easy to do. If pag oil was important in this instance I would have mentioned it. -Ryan
Old-timer here.Decades of MX/Engineering in Aerospace. You're the REAL DEAL, Ryan. You're an excellent educator. You emphasize the danger points well. People DEFINITELY need to hear those safety points over and over. Thanks for another excellent video and keep up the great work, young man.
I've been tooling around more than half my life and never really wanted to touch ac systems. Thanks for the great info, now confident and going to attempt a recharge.
Thanks for this video, I have looked at many but many videos there's always one point they miss, Cant see anything you have missed here. Very clear instruction .
Just bought the vacuum pump off your link, hope you get your cut!! Loved your video, really really great video!! Keep up the amazing work!! May God bless your and your family
Typically I am not one to come back and leave comments. However, this time I had to, I must tell you, this is video is very well explained in a simple manner so anyone a bit mechanically inclined can understand and actually pull this task. After replacing my Jeep's compressor, I went and purchased the exact pump from your link, followed your instructions and all worked as described in your video, saved tons of $$$ and time. Thank you very much.
Absolutely the best video out there to do this. Not only tells you what to do, but what NOT to do. Explains in detail exactly what it is doing and how the system is working. Really good.
It would have been nice for you to use the 'little-guy' cans to see what to do when emptying one can and starting another the way a DIY home mechanic would do. Thanks for the video - very helpful!
I know this is an old video but I give thanks to you for spelling out easy peasy how to perform this service. I’m diy and this really helped to get me going. I’ve got a 2013 f150 that I pulled out the dash and replaced the evaporator, heater core, expansion valve, drier and a damaged low side line(I did that). Tried to vacuum and charge and then had to have it diagnosed and had to do the compressor. What a mess. Thanks to your video it made things way easier than the others out there. Thanks again
I believe you may have forgot to mention the maximum vacuum will decrease by 1 inch of mercury per 1000 feet of elevation. At 5000 foot elevation the maximum vacuum will be 24 inches hg. (29-5=24) Thanks for a good video.
THIS! I have been searching for this info- my beat-up auto zone loner vacuum had me thinking something was wrong because I could only pull 21 inches hg. But I’m at 6300 ft elevation.
THANK YOU SO MUCH ! ! ! Of all the "Talking Heads" on UA-cam, you are the only one who's ever said "DON'T OPEN THE HIGH SIDE VALVE". As well this was a very complete and informative video that has answered so many questions for me and this will be about the 10th time I've had to vacuum my systems on my two vehicles but the questions remained and so I never got a good result for my efforts. Just for the record. I'm Christian and the Book of Revelations doesn't say "behold many shall vent their AC Refrigerant openly and destroy the Ozone causing global warming and turning Earth into a Black Hole". That is a revelation of a bunch of greedy politician bent on destroying the middle class and have nothing by servants at their feet.
Great video! And love the "hypotheticals," everyone tells you the same basic standard liability lingo which leads to the same limbo. I understand it's bad for the environment and wouldn't do it anyway, but love the extra knowledge that comes with the hypothetical aspect. Thank you.
I have been watching 10s of videos on tackling my AC project. And this is concise and to the point with the added tidbits of knowledge I have been looking for
You are the only honest person who explain how to release freon without going the shop to steal our money when they do the same, we going to do if their machine is broken. for that I will give you my thumb up. -- I saw many open both low and high to do the vacuum. so, you say better only low side? -- why at 13:24 you lose the yellow hose instead of pushing the bleeder valve you have on top? -- Why don't you have the high side connected to the port? then I saw you connecting it. --So basically, you add freon with car off, then when equalize both gage you turn the car and a/c to add the rest?
Great step-by-step video dude. You've explained the process better than many other videos here. I was a bit iffy about the vacuum and recharge process but your video has cautiously given me the confidence I needed. Subscribed. Thank you. Keep up the good work!
Local shops in may area wanted $150 to $250 to discharge the ac system, fee included refill with leak check. It may be a local regulation that prevent shops from only discharging an ac system
I'm having the same problem. It seems like shops are doing this to prevent DIYers from bypassing them to work on their own vehicle. They basically charge you for a full evacuation and recharge just to remove it so you don't save any money....
Dude - great video! I watched two others who had the same instructions - didn’t work. (they both say to open the High side too). Your instructions worked perfectly! Thanks!
Young man, I did all that you mentioned on your video. I had to end up putting 4 cans of refrigerant in my truck. I replaced all the ac lines, a vacuum line that is hooked new vacuum hose to the switch on the dash...I got the right size hose at Orielly's. I done all the work myself. It's nice to have ac in the old 99 model. Ron
Best video I’ve seen! The short explanations of why something is happening helps to understand the whole process without overwhelming us with information. Thanks for the help!
Thank you for that great video! Very helpful and was quite confused about the red Gage watch lot of videos no one ever mentioned it or even what pressure it should be. I just did two vehicles and both of them are perfect first time I ever attempted an AC job.
I agree as the gauge set I have works this way but I imagine on their part it has more to do with safety. Most out there dealing with HVAC systems don't have a clue. Best 99% of people don't mess with the high side valve.
I also agree. I would open the high side as well when evacuating the system. Other videos do that so this. But when filling would have high side closed.
Hey there, when pulling a vacuum on a system, it means to remove air or moisture out of the system. As you can imagine, air and moisture exist in a "vapor" state. The Low side of the system is vapor only, while the high side of the system is liquid only. Therefore, you don't have a need to open the high side if you're not working with the high side. Hope this helped!
@@CipherVillain Well that would be true if you have a working system but if it has lost it's liquid or integrity pulling vacuum on both sides make the most sense. Correct me if I'm incorrect here.
@@curiosity2314 you're absolutely right, it is good to pull if for both! I was just referring to having both sides of the gauge ports open while pulling on suction. You can use the high side to monitor refrigerant while pulling low side just not both at the same time. My bad if all I did was just confused people😅 I just noticed Shamway had it right--
So at 11:51 you shut off the valves on the manifold. That means that you cut off flow from the vacuum pump to the red and blue lines going to the car AC. The blue gauge is also cut off from your car AC. So how does that prove that your car AC lines and fittings are not leaking ? All what you have done is to show that the valves at you manifold and the yellow line to the vacuum pump is not leaking but you have not shown that your car AC lines and fittings are not leaking !
You should have mentioned how the gauges don't go through the valves. Found that on another video. Had to vacuum it twice. Fella's the gauge still reads with the valve closed.
That should have been self explanatory when he said to close the valve after pulling vacuum and wait and watch the gauge to see if there is a leak. If the gauge went through the valve there would be no way to know there was a leak in the system after closing the valve.
@@zacinnc78 - this is correct. This isn’t like a carpet vacuum; an A/C vacuum generally just removes the air and minor impurities like moisture particulate.
Really good explanation. You mention a “ AC leak sniffer “ as one method to find an AC leak. I believe another one is to install a “ dye “ in the system. The negative about this method is you put it in, charge 5he system, drive around for a few days / weeks and then using a UV? Light in a dark area to look for the dye. . Then you pretty much evacuate the R 134a, replace the part / parts and then follow your steps from this video. Toyota charged me $175 to look for the problem on my 2017 Highlander when it was blowing “ coolish “ but nowhere near cool air back in 2021. Everything worked fine but the problem returned less than 2 years later. My understanding is that a very common Toyota issue is the AC flow pressure???? valve stops working. To replace it you must evacuate the “ Freon “. Toyota doesn’t even sell the valve they want to sell you the whole compressor which includes the new valve. They do this on a lot of repairs. If I paid $175 to have my AC repaired in 2021 for 20 months I imagine it would cost over $300 now. Buying this “ kit” is cheaper than that by far.
Great video. Good information. But I have to say, its enormously frustrating to watch 10 different videos on the same subject, and each one contradicts the other on some aspects. For example, some respectable videos will tell you DON'T turn the refrigerant upside down to force it out as a liquid because it can shock your AC and damage your compressor, which is designed to compress gas. Others will says alternate rotating the canister up and down so that you putting in refrigerant in both liquid and gas form, but not so much that it will hurt the system. Still others, like this guy, are telling people just to dump it all in as a liquid to speed up the fill, with no regard to any potential damage, just to save time. Hard to know what to do when newbies get such wildly conflicting information about the "right" way to do something like this.
Notice the guys saying not turn upside down are DIYers. The pros know that the whole point of a compressor is to turn liquid into a gas. It ALWAYS has liquid coming in to because it is in the loop after the condenser which converts the gas to liquid in order to get the cooling effect. So of course the compressor can handle liquid. Google image search for car AC diagram to verify this is true.
Thanks buddy got my ac working on my mini after a broke a line I couldn’t afford a new one so just used a ac coupler ,didn’t know it was going to work and hold pressure so it was nice to use vacuum pump and see before I wasted the ac juice ,time And money. It’s nice to have videos like yours to help fix things without trail and Error
You lost half your vacuum when you connected the high side line. Should have added some refrigerant first, then messed around with the high side. Always break the vacuum will refrigerant before you do something that will lose it.
@@ShyRage1 Correct. Break the vacuum with refrigerant. You want positive pressure in the system so when you make a connection, refrigerant will come out rather than air going in (not good).
Great video. I used to work in a body shop few years back, and I've forgotten a bit how to recharge the ac. This video was a good memory refresh. Thanks! Hello from Mexico
Wow. Every one of these videos I watch I just get more and more confused. I've watched like 4 in a row and they all said different things about when to open and close the various controls.
@2carpros isn't wrong about they process, but it's not the only way. If you follow the steps in this video, you will be ok. But, he is completely wrong about his aerosol logic. Hairspray and A/C do not get cold for the same reasons... at all. Hairspray (and most other aerosols) feel cold on the skin from the process of Evaporation on your skin, after the atomized mist falls out of suspension... Not the pressure change from leaving the can. It's actually the can that loses heat in that process. Remember... Water from a hose feels cold when it's misted over you & it's not high pressure. It's the extremely small size of the droplets, they can't hold heat. Recap: liquid atomized into a fine mist - rapidly loses heat. That Mist falls out of suspension (lands on you) & turns to a thin layer of liquid on the skin - the evaporation process begins. Additionally, the air going across that thin layer of moisture also removes heat - The cold feeling on your skin. This is why we sweat, not how our ac system works.
@@NemonicsRacing this is 9 months old and I'm not even really watching his thing but... While you're absolutely correct about the evaporation of the things leaving an aerosol can, landing on your skin and then evaporating.... A can contains pressurized gas. Sometimes it's even pressurized enough to be liquid within the can. When you expel those out to the atmospheric temperatures that can itself gets cold, for the same phase change reason as your air conditioning system. The best aerosol can example of this is actually the AC cans themselves when you go to recharge the system. The reason they get cold as you're feeding it into the low side of the AC system is that they're going from highly pressurized into a liquid, and phase changing to a gas. So while nothing you said is wrong. Nothing he said is wrong either. You just misunderstood what he said.
Your video is BY FAR the VERY BEST I've seen on this subject, and, believe me, I watched many. You NEVER skipped a beat, NEVER lost your train of thought, NEVER failed in any instance! My sincere congratulations for a job well-done! By the way, I also like the pinned comment about WHY you keep the high side closed! That's the best reason anyone can give! ;) Semper Fidelis! CWO4 USMCR [Ret] 17 February 1969 - 1 August 2004
@@2carpros Unfortunately, even though your video is great, things did NOT go according to your video. :( I have a 2002 gmc sierra 1500hd w/6 liter. i was in the process of replacing my compressor which was bad. I installed a new compressor, new condenser, new accumulator drier, replaced the low and high pressure switches on the accumulator and the back of the compressor. I followed your video to the letter, including NOT opening the high-side manifold gauge. I ran vacuum tests for 30 minutes, waited 10 minutes, and perfect -- no leaks! So I proceeded to load freon, and the same thing happened the last two days: within 30 seconds after beginning to add freon, the high pressure switch on the back of the compressor blew out! I assumed it happened yesterday because I had not properly installed the split ring to hold the high-pressure switch in place, so I carefully checked to ensure the split ring was installed properly. Today, the same thing happened again -- within 30 seconds there was a loud hissing, then a 'pop', and the high pressure switch had blown out again. Can you tell me why this happened, and what I can do to correct this and ensure it does not happen again? Semper Fidelis! CWO4 USMCR [Ret] 17 February 1969 - 1 August 2004
very helpful, thanks. Realize it's been 4 years since posting, but I have had a devil of a time finding shops in my area that even do the simple discharge of my system. Among the no's: 1. that they don't have the equipment, or 2. they usually only do that as past of a full a/c repair, 3. that they don't work with DIY people, or 4, if they do it, they'd charge a full hour shop time ($150).... for the simple step. (claiming it's bay time..... and say they don't tun around and sell the refrigerant) $150 !
Liquid charging to the high side of the compressor is faster, mind you it is also risky for a novice, for if to much is fed in too fast you run the risk of blowing your nice new compressor if you just replaced it, it's for this reason I would recommend charging your unit with gas to the low side. This is how I was taught and it never failed me nor a compressor yet ! TY Sir, all and all an excellent video ! 😎✌️✝️💕🇺🇲🦅
Awesome video man my dad was an ac man for 35 years he recently passed so I can’t ask him anymore and I went to school for it but this just broke it down really well I gotta replace a condenser and radiator on my daughters Altima but don’t have a pump I hate to just throw it out in the air but may have too
It’s about 2 years ago but I personally so appreciated its really clear and best explanation on UA-cam earth! I’m not a mechanic but this lesson is a gold since I will do a bit on my car this weekend ! Thank you
Ryan, very good explanation of vacuuming and recharging a R134a system. Would love to see a general troubleshooting video that includes condenser, evaporator, lines, etc.
Pressurize nitrogen at 250 lbs into the empty a/c system checking for leaks with Windex or bubble blowing solution . Always use eye goggles and face mask . Inject Pag oil into the system on the high side then close valve . Very good and concisely done .
Thanks for the theoretical how to. I'm heading to a salvage yard for a compressor for my car, and I called for price reference. Apparently they do not drain the AC systems when putting vehicles in the yard. So theoretically I will have to theoretically take the theoretical advice given. Thanks 👍
What does it mean when you start pulling a vacuum and it start at +10psi. I replaced my condenser/pump/drier so I would expect to start out a 0. After 30 minutes its now sitting at 0. High and low sides are open as well as the yellow going to the new robinair vacuum pump. Are my snapon (old) guages reading wrong? Is there another condition that would cause this??
Great video, two things you did not mention. adding oil and how much of it to the refrigerant. Also, go by both weight and pressure to make sure that you do not over charge.. Thanks
Very educational video bro, thank you. Correct me if I'm wrong but what he's cleaning at 18:18 is the radiator, i believe the compressor is what's in front of it.
@7:00 Thank you for the explanation, why we need to flip the can w/refrigerant, and earlier explanations of the reasons about not using the High pressure side.
Nice. I have some step by step instructions from 2006 for vacuuming and charging the AC system. It differs slightly from what you say. First, it says to open both valves when vacuuming and 2) it says to "flood" the system with liquid via the high side until it takes no more after vacuum is complete. This should only be done during pre-charge (i.e. after vacuuming and before adding refrigerant via the low pressure side port) and then close the red valve. Next to make adding refrigerant faster to jumper the AC cycling switch (if possible but not necessary) to force the compressor on (in my case jumped the AC cycling switch on my Cobra and Ranger) and add refrigerant via the low pressure side. At this point you don't want to open the red valve while charging the system. I used this method to convert my 95 Cobra and 94 Ranger from R12 to R-134a without issue (i.e. pre-charged via high pressure side). Is the way you present charging the new school method?
Hahahaha😂 Went on got your ac system depressurized at the shop a..... haha😂 You're funny. Thank you so much. You've got a cool way about teaching. Easy to learn.
I'm a truck driver and doing some work on my truck saves me a ton of money and with just this video you saved me around $2000.00 bucks. I thank you and God bless you.
NICE! Thanks for watching!
I know these are older comments, but I’m going to throw this out there anyway, just be careful , I killed the compressor in a freight liner, that cost goes way up when it gets screwed up and your buying parts and not just cans of liquid. I recommend you plan out a step by step procedure and follow it carefully and try to limit distractions while you preform the job. If I would have done something like that I wouldn’t have had to buy that compressor. Good luck my friend.
@@joelguerrero1913 I'm a truck driver 2 I worked on my trucks all the time I never had to do air conditioner good job
I've been a formerly certified mechanic for a mere 20 years now(started with my dad, to a business and now on my own).I've been telling people I know jack smack about HVAC on a vehicle. I couldn't take it anymore. Watched this video all the way. Now I can add a new extremely basic service for ac recharges. We are in Texas, AC is year round these days except for 2 months. Thank you sir. This is a blessing from God and you shared your bread with others. I'll cherish it.
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
@@2carprosnmnbn me me 0:07 04 😊😊vcc cjh😅 so 0:07 😊😊😊😅😅
Using my manifold set- I'm recharging through the low Port ONLY- the low Port coupling is obviously open. My question is-your highport coupling is open so this way you can READ the pressure on the manifold gauge... The High valve on the manifold gauge NEEDS to be closed...BUT the coupling on the high side is OPEN for reading on the manifold gauge?
Is that last part correct??
Close the high side when recharging.
The high side is only for vacuuming and diagnosing.
@@coyoteserranoband Yes, follow what he did in the video. Close the big red knob before connecting the refrigerant in fact, close both knobs ( blue and Red low|high ) before connecting the yellow service line to the refrigerant.
open the blue knob after you bleed the yellow line of air and open that knob only at the manifold and very slowly.
I'm 50 years old, have been working on cars for 35 of those years, and am quite arrogant. But I cannot believe how much I learned while watching this video!
Thanks so much for watching Adam!
Is vehicle's engine running or off when performing this vacuum procedure?@2carpros
@@dejo50th I did it with the engine off.
Just a quick FYI from a licensed residential HVAC technician, the top port on the vacuum pump is for a normal residential ac hose hook up, not out dated lmao! It’s appears the vacuum pump can do ur home ac or vehicle. A lil late but thought I’d help u guys out with that tidbit 😊
Yes indeed! R410A but it's actually the same exact connector as the old r12
@@SMOKEY-JAYS-DIESELIt’s for ALL applications other than automotive, and is not specific to ANY refrigerant. It’s a 1/4” Flare fitting. The collet QD fittings are ONLY used on newer automotive systems.
Yeah that definitely helped me out. I was wondering why mine didn’t fit the bigger one😂. This is still a great video and helped a lot.
Hi, good work but I have a question. Is not the connection for low pressure going to the compressor and would damage it?
That is when you are doing liquid charging.
Thank you very much for your video! Since my husband passed away, I have learned to do many car repairs thanks to kind people like you who share knowledge! I have replaced my vvt solenoids, my blower motor, the ac circuit board, changed the oil, and more. I am now hoping to get my ac running again because this 100 degree temperature in Houston is killer. Not to mention, only 1 of my windows rolls doen, my car is black, and I work as a window cleaner outside. I am sure my coworkers would be happy if I can get my ac working...lol! Thanks again!
I'm sorry for your loss. I'm very impressed you are a self taught badass! Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros thanks so much!
NO WAY IM IN THAT SITUATION RIGHT NOW. I live in Houston, AC system went out, only one window works and car is black... Will be attempting to fix it myself.
Best video on automotive ac.
To the information, no excessive talking, no music. Thank you.
Man, you just saved me hundreds of dollars. Plus, i love working on my car, i do AC for a leaving, but not for cars. Thank you very much sir!
Glad I could help!
@@2carprosGreetings. I mean the way he explains it means it works? What vacuum pump do you use so I can buy it too?
I’ve charged my a/c a couple times. And I refresh my mind when I do it. And this really is the best video I’ve come across. And I like how you re-iterate the Do’s and Don’ts.
Thanks a ton for the video! First timer here - I was able to successfully vacuum and recharge my Truck thanks to this video. I was so happy that I started singing "Hallelujah" when the cold air started coming out of the vents.
The vacuum test gave me confidence that I had put the new condenser back together properly. Thanks again!
Great job!
One of the best all around A/C videos on UA-cam!!
To say the least, great video. I have been servicing my vehcile's A/C system for almost ten years, and this young man helped me learn something new. Thank you!
Glad it helped!
A
Appreciate the video man, went to Harbor freight and picked up everything I needed to get this done. Never leaving my truck for hours at a shop to get this done again!
Nice work! Thanks for watching!
Followed this guide and purchased the recommended kit on amazon, about two hours after it arrived I had my AC fixed and blowing colder and stronger than I can remember! Thank you for an excellent and helpful video!
Shut up
Did you refill from a keg?
@@LandenBMS I did not, my system used about 4 12oz cans of Super Tech 134a refrigerant I got at Walmart along with a can or two of AC refrigerant oil from the same source.
@@gmarkochon
The most descriptive demo that I've seen on UA-cam in this field. Your expertise is 'spot on'. A pleasure to learn from you. Thank you. LWJ Qld, Australia.
Wow, thanks! I try to do my very best, your words are very kind!
God bless you for this. I have the entire dealership's maintenance and repair manual from GM for my 2003 Chevy Silverado Z71, and 95 percent of it pertains to other trucks. I spent days trying to understand something bigger than an NYC phonebook, and you explained more than it could in all of a few minutes!
Very very cool! Thank you for watching John!
I know that it’s taught about the efficiency of liquid charging, but few people know that it also builds head pressure very quickly, and has, on more than one occasion, damaged compressors, and even blown up discharge hoses. If I’m not being paid by the hour to do it, I am more than content to babysit the damn thing and gas charge, then, there is little to no chance of slugging the compressor. Unless the system is a walk-in cooler or something, the time saved by liquid charging is really not worth the damage it could do. I will say that I have learned some things from this video, however. Keep up the good work of making sure that people out there realize the potential they have to hurt themselves if they don’t do this correctly.
One of the best instructional videos I've seen yet. Your demo and step by step explanations are perfect for the average person with little to no experience in performing this procedure. You have saved many who watch this, tons of $$$$. Great job! 👍🏼
Wow, thank you!
@@2carpros it's been few decades since I have performed this and your video was the perfect refresher course for me..thanks!
Absolutely has, I'm sure.
From gulf coast, SE Tx here as well.
Much needed and Many thanks.
I’m not one to leave reviews but your instructional video was spot on!! You were clear with important information, didn’t drag out everything like a lot of videos I’ve watched! Thanks a bunch
I NEVER like videos or follow someone unless it's just the best information in the world for me. You sir, are the best. You explain soooo thoroughly each step that you answered all my questions. Most people skip the steps they think are obvious and common sense but then other people who are just following steps end up skipping important parts
Wow, thanks!
Shouldn’t you be measuring the weight of the tank for the proper amount of refrigerant to add?
Probably the best video I’ve seen for AC work. Thanks
Glad you liked it!
@@2carpros going to get my AC vacuumed out does vacuuming your AC system pull the oil from the compressor
We say turn the bottle upside down because we "crack" the valve open where it is released as a GAS not liquid in the gauge set, and again once it enters the system. You can do it either way. Also leave the high side valve closed when vacuuming down, it wont vacuum faster with the valve open, it equalizes through the orifice or expansion valve, no problem.
Watched another highly viewed YT video on the same subject and couldn't get it to take a charge. Set me back about a week. The instruction to keep the high side valve closed was never mentioned in the other video. It made all the difference! That one detail and that it was written on the valve handle. My car took the R134 like a champ after I closed the valve. Many Thanks Sir!
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
This saved my Bacon. I replaced a line that blew off. I'd installed my AC 6 years ago- my one and only experience w/AC- and had forgotten how to use the manifold gauges and vacuum pump. Great write up and greatly appreciated.
Nice work!
What a great video! I'm a reasonably skilled DIY mechanic and 2 elements of a car befuddle me: Automatic trans and A/C. No more on the A/C! This is so well done and explained perfectly that I can work confidently on my car's system. Thank You!!!
That's awesome! You can now add "A/C Repair" to your list of skills.
For everyone asking "Why is there a high side valve if we don't open it?!" It is there to vacuum it down the system a little quicker. The reason I said don't open it is the system is a loop and just vacuuming via the low side will accomplish the same goal a bit slower. BUT if you forget to close the high side when you turn the car on with the keg attached the system pressurizes with the valve open it back feeds into the refrigerant keg and explodes most likely injuring if not killing you. Good? Good.
ALSO You don't need to add any in this instance because nearly zero is lost. If you put too much oil in the system won't work at all and is very easy to do.
If pag oil was important in this instance I would have mentioned it.
-Ryan
Just seen this comment, make sense now
just had a coworker arguing that you have to use the High side while recharging. I told him to get bent.
7
B
Old-timer here.Decades of MX/Engineering in Aerospace. You're the REAL DEAL, Ryan. You're an excellent educator. You emphasize the danger points well. People DEFINITELY need to hear those safety points over and over. Thanks for another excellent video and keep up the great work, young man.
I've been tooling around more than half my life and never really wanted to touch ac systems. Thanks for the great info, now confident and going to attempt a recharge.
Thanks for this video, I have looked at many but many videos there's always one point they miss, Cant see anything you have missed here. Very clear instruction .
This video has probably been the most useful youtube video in my entire career as an engineer to fill the systems I install. You are my hero.
Just bought the vacuum pump off your link, hope you get your cut!!
Loved your video, really really great video!!
Keep up the amazing work!!
May God bless your and your family
Typically I am not one to come back and leave comments. However, this time I had to, I must tell you, this is video is very well explained in a simple manner so anyone a bit mechanically inclined can understand and actually pull this task. After replacing my Jeep's compressor, I went and purchased the exact pump from your link, followed your instructions and all worked as described in your video, saved tons of $$$ and time. Thank you very much.
That's amazing! I love that! Thanks for watching!
Absolutely the best video out there to do this. Not only tells you what to do, but what NOT to do. Explains in detail exactly what it is doing and how the system is working. Really good.
It would have been nice for you to use the 'little-guy' cans to see what to do when emptying one can and starting another the way a DIY home mechanic would do. Thanks for the video - very helpful!
Close off valve that's connected at vehicles port purge air out by opening how he did at the beginning of his connection of the big refrigerant
Ideally where you connect at the can there is a valve there that you can close before switching cans and that will prevent air from entering.
I was looking for a tutorial for my a/c system in my Audi, and this video is the best and most helpful across my search! Thank you! 🙌
Best explanation and hands on showing the proper way to evacuate and charge an AC system. Thank you 👍
I know this is an old video but I give thanks to you for spelling out easy peasy how to perform this service. I’m diy and this really helped to get me going. I’ve got a 2013 f150 that I pulled out the dash and replaced the evaporator, heater core, expansion valve, drier and a damaged low side line(I did that). Tried to vacuum and charge and then had to have it diagnosed and had to do the compressor. What a mess. Thanks to your video it made things way easier than the others out there. Thanks again
Happy to help! Thanks for watching!
I believe you may have forgot to mention the maximum vacuum will decrease by 1 inch of mercury per 1000 feet of elevation. At 5000 foot elevation the maximum vacuum will be 24 inches hg. (29-5=24) Thanks for a good video.
Why will this be important, to me that's very confusing doesn't mean anything or it's just knowledge
@@anamarin6475 Because when you pull vacuum and your at say 5000 feet you won't see the gauge go to 30in.
THIS! I have been searching for this info- my beat-up auto zone loner vacuum had me thinking something was wrong because I could only pull 21 inches hg. But I’m at 6300 ft elevation.
THANK YOU SO MUCH ! ! !
Of all the "Talking Heads" on UA-cam, you are the only one who's ever said "DON'T OPEN THE HIGH SIDE VALVE". As well this was a very complete and informative video that has answered so many questions for me and this will be about the 10th time I've had to vacuum my systems on my two vehicles but the questions remained and so I never got a good result for my efforts.
Just for the record. I'm Christian and the Book of Revelations doesn't say "behold many shall vent their AC Refrigerant openly and destroy the Ozone causing global warming and turning Earth into a Black Hole". That is a revelation of a bunch of greedy politician bent on destroying the middle class and have nothing by servants at their feet.
Thanks so much for watching!
Good job bud! This video really helped. Concise, to the point w/o bs fluff and really thorough. Thank you sir.
I dont pay attention in class ..but I swear I study your videos to the T. Thank you for all your hard work ....
Some people learn better in video form, I always did. Thanks for watching!
Great video! And love the "hypotheticals," everyone tells you the same basic standard liability lingo which leads to the same limbo. I understand it's bad for the environment and wouldn't do it anyway, but love the extra knowledge that comes with the hypothetical aspect. Thank you.
Thank you so much for watching and for understanding what I mean.
I have been watching 10s of videos on tackling my AC project. And this is concise and to the point with the added tidbits of knowledge I have been looking for
So far the best detailed a/c video I’ve seen. Definitely helped me solve my issue!!! Thanks so much.
Great to hear!
You are the only honest person who explain how to release freon without going the shop to steal our money when they do the same, we going to do if their machine is broken. for that I will give you my thumb up.
-- I saw many open both low and high to do the vacuum. so, you say better only low side?
-- why at 13:24 you lose the yellow hose instead of pushing the bleeder valve you have on top?
-- Why don't you have the high side connected to the port? then I saw you connecting it.
--So basically, you add freon with car off, then when equalize both gage you turn the car and a/c to add the rest?
Great step-by-step video dude. You've explained the process better than many other videos here. I was a bit iffy about the vacuum and recharge process but your video has cautiously given me the confidence I needed. Subscribed. Thank you. Keep up the good work!
Awesome, thank you!
I'm an HVAC-R student. This is a really good video; I'm about to do this on my car. Thank you!
Hey bro, just wanted to say this was the best AC recharge video I've seen by far. Great job, keep up the good work, and thank you.
Thanks, will do!
Local shops in may area wanted $150 to $250 to discharge the ac system, fee included refill with leak check. It may be a local regulation that prevent shops from only discharging an ac system
I'm having the same problem. It seems like shops are doing this to prevent DIYers from bypassing them to work on their own vehicle.
They basically charge you for a full evacuation and recharge just to remove it so you don't save any money....
Dude - great video! I watched two others who had the same instructions - didn’t work. (they both say to open the High side too). Your instructions worked perfectly! Thanks!
I'm really glad you watched this video then. Thanks for watching!
Absolutely great vid man, I've been a back yard mechanic all my life and this was the most helpful ac video I've ever seen!
Terrific video. Gave me the confidence and skills needed to complete my AC Auto repair.
Nice! Thanks for watching!
Young man, I did all that you mentioned on your video. I had to end up putting 4 cans of refrigerant in my truck. I replaced all the ac lines, a vacuum line that is hooked new vacuum hose to the switch on the dash...I got the right size hose at Orielly's. I done all the work myself. It's nice to have ac in the old 99 model. Ron
Great to hear Ron! Thanks for watching!
Best video I’ve seen! The short explanations of why something is happening helps to understand the whole process without overwhelming us with information. Thanks for the help!
Awesome, thank you!
One of the best videos on the subject I have ever watched. Very well done.
Thank you for that great video! Very helpful and was quite confused about the red Gage watch lot of videos no one ever mentioned it or even what pressure it should be. I just did two vehicles and both of them are perfect first time I ever attempted an AC job.
Very cool! Thanks for watching Dave!
@@2carpros Was that pun intended??
No but I'm happy it's there now. Thanks for watching!
This is one of the best descriptions of ac systems and service I've seen on UA-cam. You are awesome, thank you.
Fantastic video. Just finishing up rebuilding my ac system and this was great step by step info for the charging.
Great to hear!
You speak my language. very helpful, straight to the point, easy to understand, Subscribed!
When you are pulling a vacuum on the system why not open the Hi Side (red) of the manifold as well?
I agree as the gauge set I have works this way but I imagine on their part it has more to do with safety. Most out there dealing with HVAC systems don't have a clue. Best 99% of people don't mess with the high side valve.
I also agree. I would open the high side as well when evacuating the system. Other videos do that so this. But when filling would have high side closed.
Hey there, when pulling a vacuum on a system, it means to remove air or moisture out of the system. As you can imagine, air and moisture exist in a "vapor" state. The Low side of the system is vapor only, while the high side of the system is liquid only. Therefore, you don't have a need to open the high side if you're not working with the high side. Hope this helped!
@@CipherVillain Well that would be true if you have a working system but if it has lost it's liquid or integrity pulling vacuum on both sides make the most sense. Correct me if I'm incorrect here.
@@curiosity2314 you're absolutely right, it is good to pull if for both! I was just referring to having both sides of the gauge ports open while pulling on suction. You can use the high side to monitor refrigerant while pulling low side just not both at the same time. My bad if all I did was just confused people😅 I just noticed Shamway had it right--
i have been watching videos for about a week now and this is the best video by far, absolutely amazing explanations
Great to hear!
So at 11:51 you shut off the valves on the manifold. That means that you cut off flow from the vacuum pump to the red and blue lines going to the car AC. The blue gauge is also cut off from your car AC.
So how does that prove that your car AC lines and fittings are not leaking ?
All what you have done is to show that the valves at you manifold and the yellow line to the vacuum pump is not leaking but you have not shown that your car AC lines and fittings are not leaking !
The gauge is between the manifold valve and the vehicle. Closing it represents the pressure on the system, not the hoses.
I just replaced my leaking condenser MYSELF! Thank YOU Ryan
Nice work!
You should have mentioned how the gauges don't go through the valves. Found that on another video. Had to vacuum it twice. Fella's the gauge still reads with the valve closed.
That should have been self explanatory when he said to close the valve after pulling vacuum and wait and watch the gauge to see if there is a leak. If the gauge went through the valve there would be no way to know there was a leak in the system after closing the valve.
Excellent video - nobody else explains this process as clearly. Kudos! Now I have a working mini-fridge. Thank you!
After you evacuate the system don't you need to add PAG oil for the compressor?
i see another guys video say that vaccuming out system like he does not lose oil only when u flush it
but i was wondering for sure the same thing
i see another guys video say that vaccuming out system like he does not lose oil only when u flush it
but i was wondering for sure the same thing
@@zacinnc78 - this is correct. This isn’t like a carpet vacuum; an A/C vacuum generally just removes the air and minor impurities like moisture particulate.
Really good explanation. You mention a “ AC leak sniffer “ as one method to find an AC leak. I believe another one is to install a “ dye “ in the system. The negative about this method is you put it in, charge 5he system, drive around for a few days / weeks and then using a UV? Light in a dark area to look for the dye. . Then you pretty much evacuate the R 134a, replace the part / parts and then follow your steps from this video. Toyota charged me $175 to look for the problem on my 2017 Highlander when it was blowing “ coolish “ but nowhere near cool air back in 2021. Everything worked fine but the problem returned less than 2 years later. My understanding is that a very common Toyota issue is the AC flow pressure???? valve stops working. To replace it you must evacuate the “ Freon “. Toyota doesn’t even sell the valve they want to sell you the whole compressor which includes the new valve. They do this on a lot of repairs. If I paid $175 to have my AC repaired in 2021 for 20 months I imagine it would cost over $300 now. Buying this “ kit” is cheaper than that by far.
Great video. Good information. But I have to say, its enormously frustrating to watch 10 different videos on the same subject, and each one contradicts the other on some aspects. For example, some respectable videos will tell you DON'T turn the refrigerant upside down to force it out as a liquid because it can shock your AC and damage your compressor, which is designed to compress gas. Others will says alternate rotating the canister up and down so that you putting in refrigerant in both liquid and gas form, but not so much that it will hurt the system. Still others, like this guy, are telling people just to dump it all in as a liquid to speed up the fill, with no regard to any potential damage, just to save time. Hard to know what to do when newbies get such wildly conflicting information about the "right" way to do something like this.
This is the way I was taught and the way I have been doing it for over ten years. Take that how you will. Thanks for watching!
SAME. I am so confused
Notice the guys saying not turn upside down are DIYers. The pros know that the whole point of a compressor is to turn liquid into a gas. It ALWAYS has liquid coming in to because it is in the loop after the condenser which converts the gas to liquid in order to get the cooling effect. So of course the compressor can handle liquid. Google image search for car AC diagram to verify this is true.
@@Grrrnthumb Compressor takes in gas at low pressure and compresses it to higher pressure.
Super video. It told me what I needed to know. Now I can fix my A/C.. my wife will be happy!! Thank you.
That anciant R-12 is a hell of a lot better than R-134A ever was..Nothing will ever match it in fact..
True! Thanks for watching!
This video is without a dought the best most informative and well made video concerning car A/C that I have ever seen ! Thank You !!!
Thanks. You're very likable. Easy explanation and good visuals for those "monkey see, monkey do" like myself. Saved me a TON of money I did not have.
Some systems won't leak while under a vacuum test however, once the system is charged and the compressor is making a LOT of pressure it 'may' leak.
Old school is to leave the system under vacuum over night and check for vacuum loss the next day.
Thanks buddy got my ac working on my mini after a broke a line I couldn’t afford a new one so just used a ac coupler ,didn’t know it was going to work and hold pressure so it was nice to use vacuum pump and see before I wasted the ac juice ,time And money. It’s nice to have videos like yours to help fix things without trail and Error
You lost half your vacuum when you connected the high side line. Should have added some refrigerant first, then messed around with the high side. Always break the vacuum will refrigerant before you do something that will lose it.
Ok, so, do what he did in the video, but add a can of refrigerant before connecting high to prevent vac leakage?
@@ShyRage1 Correct. Break the vacuum with refrigerant. You want positive pressure in the system so when you make a connection, refrigerant will come out rather than air going in (not good).
Some great instruction, no nonsense, no extra chit chat, simple and easy to understand.
"had the shop evacuate it"
Notices suspicious residue on intake manifold lol
Do you think they did it wrong and charged me the 20 bucks anyways?! That would be a twist. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros 😆 pro moves
$20? Cheapest I founded was $50.
Great video.
I used to work in a body shop few years back, and I've forgotten a bit how to recharge the ac.
This video was a good memory refresh.
Thanks!
Hello from Mexico
Wow. Every one of these videos I watch I just get more and more confused. I've watched like 4 in a row and they all said different things about when to open and close the various controls.
All I know is mine is right. Thanks for watching!
@2carpros isn't wrong about they process, but it's not the only way. If you follow the steps in this video, you will be ok.
But, he is completely wrong about his aerosol logic. Hairspray and A/C do not get cold for the same reasons... at all. Hairspray (and most other aerosols) feel cold on the skin from the process of Evaporation on your skin, after the atomized mist falls out of suspension... Not the pressure change from leaving the can. It's actually the can that loses heat in that process.
Remember... Water from a hose feels cold when it's misted over you & it's not high pressure. It's the extremely small size of the droplets, they can't hold heat.
Recap: liquid atomized into a fine mist - rapidly loses heat.
That Mist falls out of suspension (lands on you) & turns to a thin layer of liquid on the skin
- the evaporation process begins.
Additionally, the air going across that thin layer of moisture also removes heat
- The cold feeling on your skin.
This is why we sweat, not how our ac system works.
@@NemonicsRacing this is 9 months old and I'm not even really watching his thing but... While you're absolutely correct about the evaporation of the things leaving an aerosol can, landing on your skin and then evaporating....
A can contains pressurized gas. Sometimes it's even pressurized enough to be liquid within the can.
When you expel those out to the atmospheric temperatures that can itself gets cold, for the same phase change reason as your air conditioning system.
The best aerosol can example of this is actually the AC cans themselves when you go to recharge the system. The reason they get cold as you're feeding it into the low side of the AC system is that they're going from highly pressurized into a liquid, and phase changing to a gas.
So while nothing you said is wrong. Nothing he said is wrong either.
You just misunderstood what he said.
Your video is BY FAR the VERY BEST I've seen on this subject, and, believe me, I watched many. You NEVER skipped a beat, NEVER lost your train of thought, NEVER failed in any instance! My sincere congratulations for a job well-done! By the way, I also like the pinned comment about WHY you keep the high side closed! That's the best reason anyone can give! ;) Semper Fidelis! CWO4 USMCR [Ret] 17 February 1969 - 1 August 2004
Wow, thank you for watching and thank you for your service to our great nation! :)
@@2carpros Unfortunately, even though your video is great, things did NOT go according to your video. :( I have a 2002 gmc sierra 1500hd w/6 liter. i was in the process of replacing my compressor which was bad. I installed a new compressor, new condenser, new accumulator drier, replaced the low and high pressure switches on the accumulator and the back of the compressor. I followed your video to the letter, including NOT opening the high-side manifold gauge. I ran vacuum tests for 30 minutes, waited 10 minutes, and perfect -- no leaks! So I proceeded to load freon, and the same thing happened the last two days: within 30 seconds after beginning to add freon, the high pressure switch on the back of the compressor blew out! I assumed it happened yesterday because I had not properly installed the split ring to hold the high-pressure switch in place, so I carefully checked to ensure the split ring was installed properly. Today, the same thing happened again -- within 30 seconds there was a loud hissing, then a 'pop', and the high pressure switch had blown out again. Can you tell me why this happened, and what I can do to correct this and ensure it does not happen again? Semper Fidelis! CWO4 USMCR [Ret] 17 February 1969 - 1 August 2004
@@GunnersRange Did you get it to work?
This is by far one of the most helpful videos about car A/C. Thank you sir!
very helpful, thanks. Realize it's been 4 years since posting, but I have had a devil of a time finding shops in my area that even do the simple discharge of my system. Among the no's: 1. that they don't have the equipment, or 2. they usually only do that as past of a full a/c repair, 3. that they don't work with DIY people, or 4, if they do it, they'd charge a full hour shop time ($150).... for the simple step. (claiming it's bay time..... and say they don't tun around and sell the refrigerant) $150 !
Thanks, 2 Carpros. Very helpful. 🙂
Remember, that God loves you guys! 🙂🙂🙂
Always!
Liquid charging to the high side of the compressor is faster, mind you it is also risky for a novice, for if to much is fed in too fast you run the risk of blowing your nice new compressor if you just replaced it, it's for this reason I would recommend charging your unit with gas to the low side. This is how I was taught and it never failed me nor a compressor yet ! TY Sir, all and all an excellent video ! 😎✌️✝️💕🇺🇲🦅
Awesome video man my dad was an ac man for 35 years he recently passed so I can’t ask him anymore and I went to school for it but this just broke it down really well I gotta replace a condenser and radiator on my daughters Altima but don’t have a pump I hate to just throw it out in the air but may have too
It’s about 2 years ago but I personally so appreciated its really clear and best explanation on UA-cam earth! I’m not a mechanic but this lesson is a gold since I will do a bit on my car this weekend ! Thank you
Ryan, very good explanation of vacuuming and recharging a R134a system.
Would love to see a general troubleshooting video that includes condenser, evaporator, lines, etc.
Great suggestion!
@@2carproslooking forward to a video like that as well. Using a 2003 GMC 2500 4dr would be a bonus…if you can find one with (typical) problems. 👍👍
Without a doubt, this is the most clear and concise instruction on UA-cam to get this job done successfully. Thanks ...
Pressurize nitrogen at 250 lbs into the empty a/c system checking for leaks with Windex or bubble blowing solution . Always use eye goggles and face mask . Inject Pag oil into the system on the high side then close valve . Very good and concisely done .
Thanks for the theoretical how to. I'm heading to a salvage yard for a compressor for my car, and I called for price reference. Apparently they do not drain the AC systems when putting vehicles in the yard. So theoretically I will have to theoretically take the theoretical advice given. Thanks 👍
Theoretically you are very welcome! lol
this is the best how to video as far as AC work is concerned
What does it mean when you start pulling a vacuum and it start at +10psi. I replaced my condenser/pump/drier so I would expect to start out a 0. After 30 minutes its now sitting at 0. High and low sides are open as well as the yellow going to the new robinair vacuum pump. Are my snapon (old) guages reading wrong? Is there another condition that would cause this??
This helped me a ton! Somehow I got my Subaru XT6 converted from R12 and this guide was great all the way through
Hands-down, most thorough explanation. ✊🏽
Great video, two things you did not mention. adding oil and how much of it to the refrigerant. Also, go by both weight and pressure to make sure that you do not over charge.. Thanks
Very educational video bro, thank you. Correct me if I'm wrong but what he's cleaning at 18:18 is the radiator, i believe the compressor is what's in front of it.
Nope. The condenser is in front of the radiator. Thanks for watching!
Stoked 🤘 I’m doing vehicle cab removals in future for motor/trans swaps and not wanting to disconnect pump from motor all ways
@7:00 Thank you for the explanation, why we need to flip the can w/refrigerant, and earlier explanations of the reasons about not using the High pressure side.
Thanks for watching Olena!
Very well documented process. Did mine today. Thank you!
Great to hear!
Nice. I have some step by step instructions from 2006 for vacuuming and charging the AC system. It differs slightly from what you say. First, it says to open both valves when vacuuming and 2) it says to "flood" the system with liquid via the high side until it takes no more after vacuum is complete. This should only be done during pre-charge (i.e. after vacuuming and before adding refrigerant via the low pressure side port) and then close the red valve. Next to make adding refrigerant faster to jumper the AC cycling switch (if possible but not necessary) to force the compressor on (in my case jumped the AC cycling switch on my Cobra and Ranger) and add refrigerant via the low pressure side. At this point you don't want to open the red valve while charging the system. I used this method to convert my 95 Cobra and 94 Ranger from R12 to R-134a without issue (i.e. pre-charged via high pressure side). Is the way you present charging the new school method?
Hahahaha😂 Went on got your ac system depressurized at the shop a..... haha😂 You're funny. Thank you so much. You've got a cool way about teaching. Easy to learn.
Wow. This is straightforward and easy. I’m all set not to do my ac! Thank you sir!