Here we are 2022 , I’m putting my 2a back together, bulkhead first all bolted down, engine in an all , repaired the the tub , fitted and guess what ...your right !!!
Have you had a tub before that doesn't sit completely straight once bolted to the back of the chassis? My tub points almost an inch over to the left at the rear bulkhead unless I add almost 1/4 of shims to the RH bracket!
Christ you nearly had my eye out waving that thing around. Anyway i did something correct for a change when building my 90. I had to do it that way as I galvanised my bulkhead and it come out banana shaped. It still went on!! Difficult to set the doors though, the gaps are big.
Set the door gaps to 34 3/4 and all will be well Yeap - galvanizing can be a benefit, but it can be a pain - I have struggle for hours trying to get them right Promise not to wave my thing about too much - but it is fun! Mike
Also, fitting the Safety Devices cage was a nightmare with a warped bulkhead too because the wing brackets were at a very slight angle and there is no tolerance in the design. Don't do it people, I regret it but its fitted now, somewhat under tension. I did much swearing during assembly. Fitting the dashboard, heater and steering column is all very hard when bulkhead is warped lengthways and through the vertical. We live and learn!
That will be nice to have gaps even all the way around the door but the hinges don't last long as you know so what do you think changing hinges every two or three years.
This must have been an issue for LR - they changed the design 3 times in the life of the DefenderThe early hinges up to Td5 are now made in India and not worth fitting
Great video! Question on a Series 2 Truck: I need to adjust the angle of my bulkhead, Series trucks don't have that bracket under the bulkhead that you are shimming up. Any advise on how to do these bulkhead tilt adjustments on Series trucks??
I guess this is a rebuild - you start with the rear tub fastened to the rear crossmember THEN fit the bulkhead - you may have to move the bulkhead forwards or the tub back
Great info Im doing a ground up on my 69 2A.New frame, I rebuilt bulkhead. new doors. Having trouble getting everything lined up,Will go back and redo adjustments. just curious where is this video you keep referring to in the shop? Thanks Jon USA
I am pretty sure my bulkhead as well as my striker plate column are leaned back. I have the 34 3/4 top and bottom, but am not square. The body line of the door starts in the right place by the hinge, but where it latches it is way lower than the line on the latch pillar. Which should I adjust first? 1991 Santana 110.
Louis - I am not that familiar with the Santana so I don't think I can offer useful informationThe bulkhead cannot move up or down, so it has to be adjustment on the body
thinking you maybe able to provide me an approach for fix an issue with a 97 RHD def 110 5 drivers front door alinement. i have measured the gap and its spot on 34 3/4 at the base- the bulkhead (A) angle to the channel also appears on a slight angle with the upper portion leaning slightly forward (only a tad) the B pillar again top leaning slightly more to the front - only driver side issue passengers all ok. best approach- working base is the B pillar angle?
Hi Mike what is the largest shim you have seen on the bulkhead main through bolt I already have approx 10mm and according to my pipe of knowledge (like you taught me) it looks like another 5 to 6mm required to make the 34 3/4. I should add it’s a new chassis
Britannica Restorations Ltd no it’s a new chassis Mike from Richards chassis and a new factory bulkhead no welding to chassis at all. I rear tub bolted fine to the rear chassis tabs etc
I first watched this video when it first came out, fortunately I remembered it and found it again and Mike's advice (as usual!) worked like a charm.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks Mike 👍
No problem 👍
I am about to do it. It was very helpful. Thanks
Here we are 2022 , I’m putting my 2a back together, bulkhead first all bolted down, engine in an all , repaired the the tub , fitted and guess what ...your right !!!
Not too late to correct
Thanks for the help.
Hello mate, thank you for your video do you do one of how to make the tub square to the sills
Unfortunately I do not have a vehicle here suitable to show you
Have you had a tub before that doesn't sit completely straight once bolted to the back of the chassis? My tub points almost an inch over to the left at the rear bulkhead unless I add almost 1/4 of shims to the RH bracket!
Check the chassis is square with a spirit level and then check the tub - which is out of square?
Christ you nearly had my eye out waving that thing around. Anyway i did something correct for a change when building my 90. I had to do it that way as I galvanised my bulkhead and it come out banana shaped. It still went on!! Difficult to set the doors though, the gaps are big.
Set the door gaps to 34 3/4 and all will be well
Yeap - galvanizing can be a benefit, but it can be a pain - I have struggle for hours trying to get them right
Promise not to wave my thing about too much - but it is fun!
Mike
Also, fitting the Safety Devices cage was a nightmare with a warped bulkhead too because the wing brackets were at a very slight angle and there is no tolerance in the design. Don't do it people, I regret it but its fitted now, somewhat under tension. I did much swearing during assembly. Fitting the dashboard, heater and steering column is all very hard when bulkhead is warped lengthways and through the vertical. We live and learn!
Amen to that!
Mike
Thanks Mike, is this the same for a Series 3?
Yes it should be
That will be nice to have gaps even all the way around the door but the hinges don't last long as you know so what do you think changing hinges every two or three years.
This must have been an issue for LR - they changed the design 3 times in the life of the DefenderThe early hinges up to Td5 are now made in India and not worth fitting
Is that 34 3/4 from the lip the seal sits on? Mines 34 1/2 top and bottom…
From the door pillar outside to the edge of the rear tub/B post - not the lip
Great video! Question on a Series 2 Truck: I need to adjust the angle of my bulkhead, Series trucks don't have that bracket under the bulkhead that you are shimming up. Any advise on how to do these bulkhead tilt adjustments on Series trucks??
I have not done one for 15 years, but I seem to recall you could shim the vertical bracket that joins the chassis to the bulkhead
Is 34 & ¾ true of any defender?
yes
shit, mine's 34 ¼ and no washers in there at all. Where am i going to find half a inch? @@BritannicaRestorations
I guess this is a rebuild - you start with the rear tub fastened to the rear crossmember THEN fit the bulkhead - you may have to move the bulkhead forwards or the tub back
Yes chassis needed some work.@@BritannicaRestorations
Great info Im doing a ground up on my 69 2A.New frame, I rebuilt bulkhead. new doors. Having trouble getting everything lined up,Will go back and redo adjustments. just curious where is this video you keep referring to in the shop? Thanks Jon USA
Search on my channel page for body, doors. alignment etc
I am pretty sure my bulkhead as well as my striker plate column are leaned back. I have the 34 3/4 top and bottom, but am not square. The body line of the door starts in the right place by the hinge, but where it latches it is way lower than the line on the latch pillar. Which should I adjust first? 1991 Santana 110.
Louis - I am not that familiar with the Santana so I don't think I can offer useful informationThe bulkhead cannot move up or down, so it has to be adjustment on the body
thinking you maybe able to provide me an approach for fix an issue with a 97 RHD def 110 5 drivers front door alinement. i have measured the gap and its spot on 34 3/4 at the base- the bulkhead (A) angle to the channel also appears on a slight angle with the upper portion leaning slightly forward (only a tad) the B pillar again top leaning slightly more to the front - only driver side issue passengers all ok. best approach- working base is the B pillar angle?
Can you send me some pics to britrest@britrest.com?
@@BritannicaRestorations I sent an email this eve as well, i send pics shortly
Hi Mike what is the largest shim you have seen on the bulkhead main through bolt I already have approx 10mm and according to my pipe of knowledge (like you taught me) it looks like another 5 to 6mm required to make the 34 3/4. I should add it’s a new chassis
And a new factory bulkhead I should also add
John - have you welded new outriggers on?
Britannica Restorations Ltd no it’s a new chassis Mike from Richards chassis and a new factory bulkhead no welding to chassis at all.
I rear tub bolted fine to the rear chassis tabs etc
Then 10mm it is - thinking about it, 10mm = 3/8 = 3 x 1/8 washers
@@BritannicaRestorations This is on the 2 M12 x 180 bolts on each bottom side? If so, looks like mine needs at least a quarter inch.
Ive got a huge 1 plus inch gap at the top of the RHS door. What can I do?
Send me a picture
@@BritannicaRestorations how do I do that? I've checked your channel but can't seem to find a messaging function
I us a tape measure instead of a bent plastic tube.
shut up
Your rigging plastic tool is bent😂
But very erect when used correctly....
Mike