Great content. Just bought a 130 and planning to work through it till it’s quiet enough to drive all day. Im on the black stuff most of the time and want to cut down on fatigue.
I have done part of my 110 Defender/Perentie (running Isuzu engine). Just the front floor, seatbox and most of the firewall. Made a massive difference, however I would like to keep going it. I think it might be worth my while looking at buying a bulk lot, rather than doing dribs and drabs.
i guess Im randomly asking but does anybody know a way to log back into an instagram account..? I stupidly forgot the account password. I would love any assistance you can give me
@Wallace Gibson Thanks for your reply. I found the site on google and Im in the hacking process atm. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
@@carbuilders1 My 110 ( 2014, 2.2TDCI)has just gone for a V8 4.8L (JLR engine) conversion with 6 speed auto, and electronic parking brake, including all the necessary upgrades to brakes, suspension etc. and on the interior front, sound deadening is the next step. Your video was as good as it gets on detail in this area and worth every second to watch. Greetings from Scotland! all the best with the channel!
@@cowanscott9047 nice upgrades there💪 You are likely wanting to reduce the extra heat from that motor with some heat shields externally. You might get a few ideas from this ls Patrol we treated ua-cam.com/video/WYqI4ep0hoA/v-deo.html
I am currently finishing of stage 1 in my defender 110, but before I install stage 2 I am wondering if it will help reduce condensation on the roof and if the foam is moisture resistant? It can be cold and wet here in Belgium... Very helpful video though! 👍🏼
Hi Wannes. Yes, the foam we use in the roof will stop condensation. Insul Layer is a closed cell foam and will not hold water or moisture. Good luck with your project 👍
Yes, we have. Landcruisers, Patrols and Land Rovers are notorious for being loud and noisy when touring. As these vehicles have very limited deadening in them from factory, there is a significant improvement in the decibel rating within the cabin. This is particularly evident on dirt or rutted surfaces where there can be an improvement of 10 or more decibels. On sealed surfaces, we have results of around 3 decibels. The Stage 1 Sound Deadener will make the panel solid and stop vibration-generated noise. The Stage 2 (Mass Noise Liner, Water Proof Underlay, Acoustic Liner, Insul-Layer) will act as a noise blanket, reducing external noise and acting as a decoupling layer for heat. "Doubling of the volume (loudness) should be sensed as a level difference of +10 dB − acousticians say. Doubling of sound intensity (acoustic energy) belongs to a calculated level change of +3 dB. +10 dB is the level of twice the perceived volume or twice as loud (loudness) in psychoacoustics − mostly sensed" (www.sengpielaudio.com › calculator-levelchange)
Great informative video thank you. I’ve been told by a few people NOT to put sound deadening on the roof if you are in extreme heat areas, like Oz or Africa. Because the adhesive softens in extreme heat and because of the weight of the product, they start to fall off. What’s your thoughts on this? I see you’ve done it anyway but not sure how much feedback you have had from customers after a while.
Thank you. We have been doing this for a long time. I think a bigger concern is when the product is in a vertical position (doors/side panels) as extreme heat makes the product tacker and potentially it can slip/slide. Whenever we do installs we are conservative and use our aluminium foil tape to border the product to avoid this potential issue. You can also do that in the roof.
Look up for Reckhorn Alubutyl in Germany. reckhorn.com/schall-waermedaemmung/abx-2-mm-alubutyl-schallisolierung-daemmmaterial Buy 4-5 roles of it for Defender 110 SW. Stick it on any piece of metall you find and reduce noise by 30% (subjective). It's worth the effort and you will enjoy every minute you drive.
Hi there. Yes, we do. The shipping can be expensive (but a strong US dollar can counter that somewhat) Please feel free to email us what your interested in and your address details and we can organise a quote with shipping costs 👍P.S. We hope to be over in the US in the not too distant future.
If you were to just start with one section what do you think would cut down the most noise? I was thinking either the doors or the floor first? I can do the doors without pulling seats. I drive a crew cab Chevy Colorado pick up truck. Road noise is driving me nuts.
Start with the doors Chris as this is least intrusive and, as you said, you won't need to pull the seats. Is this noise on dirt or paved roads? Can you isolate where it is coming from? Do you think it is panel resonance or external road/engine noise? You will notice a significant improve with the Stage 1 on dirt/offroad tracks. The Stage 2 will be more effective in blocking droning or external road noise. 👍
Car Builders - Thermal & Acoustic insulation materials it is mostly road noise. The low hum noise from the tires. The sheet metal is so thin and I drive about 30,000 miles a year.
Car Builders - Thermal & Acoustic insulation materials he’s the dick with a problem mate. You can used to an accent if you like what the persons saying! I wonder what he sounds like?
It would be awesome if you could make before and after videos showing the difference in sound levels.
Thanks for the feedback. We have done it in some video such as the Troopy install. Need to make sure we do it more often 👍
@@carbuilders1 i guess 100 db to 90 db.
@@TheBudweiserturk haha. Funny. Ear damage occurs at 100. So you might be right? My 300TDI is loud. Haha
thicker frame bushings and inserting silicone tubes inside the door seals would synergize with your nice work
Yes, you're right. They needed you at Landrover 👍
Great content. Just bought a 130 and planning to work through it till it’s quiet enough to drive all day. Im on the black stuff most of the time and want to cut down on fatigue.
I have done part of my 110 Defender/Perentie (running Isuzu engine). Just the front floor, seatbox and most of the firewall. Made a massive difference, however I would like to keep going it. I think it might be worth my while looking at buying a bulk lot, rather than doing dribs and drabs.
Hi Mr Johson-Clarke. Sounds like you have done quite a bit. You probably best topping up in areas that need it. 👍
@@carbuilders1 Can you make an old defender as quiet as a new G wagon? If so, then how?
Well...
Nicely done mate 👍
She looks beautiful ✌️
Greetings from Germany 🇩🇪
Thank you very much!
i guess Im randomly asking but does anybody know a way to log back into an instagram account..?
I stupidly forgot the account password. I would love any assistance you can give me
@Pedro Leighton instablaster :)
@Wallace Gibson Thanks for your reply. I found the site on google and Im in the hacking process atm.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Wallace Gibson It worked and I actually got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thank you so much, you really help me out !
Excellent video!! Learnt a lot!!
Thank you Cowan 👍
@@carbuilders1 My 110 ( 2014, 2.2TDCI)has just gone for a V8 4.8L (JLR engine) conversion with 6 speed auto, and electronic parking brake, including all the necessary upgrades to brakes, suspension etc. and on the interior front, sound deadening is the next step. Your video was as good as it gets on detail in this area and worth every second to watch. Greetings from Scotland! all the best with the channel!
@@cowanscott9047 nice upgrades there💪 You are likely wanting to reduce the extra heat from that motor with some heat shields externally. You might get a few ideas from this ls Patrol we treated ua-cam.com/video/WYqI4ep0hoA/v-deo.html
@@carbuilders1 Thanks guys!! really appreciate this! I'll check out your link in the morning.. run out of time tonight.. cheers!
I am currently finishing of stage 1 in my defender 110, but before I install stage 2 I am wondering if it will help reduce condensation on the roof and if the foam is moisture resistant? It can be cold and wet here in Belgium...
Very helpful video though! 👍🏼
Hi Wannes. Yes, the foam we use in the roof will stop condensation. Insul Layer is a closed cell foam and will not hold water or moisture. Good luck with your project 👍
I bought 2 boxes of stage 1 for my 110. it's a start but probably going to need another 3. Back to the website i go.
Hi Nick. Are you doing the roof?
@@carbuilders1 all ive done so far is the rear cargo bay up to the back seats, and yes thats the loudest bit of the defender. :)
You say Datum a lot, are you surveying are fitting sound deadened?
what are those seat belt fixing you have in the front there
Do you guys sell ready cut kits for a 110 series?
Have you measure the dB voor and after, and what,s the result !?
Yes, we have. Landcruisers, Patrols and Land Rovers are notorious for being loud and noisy when touring. As these vehicles have very limited deadening in them from factory, there is a significant improvement in the decibel rating within the cabin. This is particularly evident on dirt or rutted surfaces where there can be an improvement of 10 or more decibels. On sealed surfaces, we have results of around 3 decibels. The Stage 1 Sound Deadener will make the panel solid and stop vibration-generated noise. The Stage 2 (Mass Noise Liner, Water Proof Underlay, Acoustic Liner, Insul-Layer) will act as a noise blanket, reducing external noise and acting as a decoupling layer for heat.
"Doubling of the volume (loudness) should be sensed as a level difference of +10 dB − acousticians say. Doubling of sound intensity (acoustic energy) belongs to a calculated level change of +3 dB. +10 dB is the level of twice the perceived volume or twice as loud (loudness) in psychoacoustics − mostly sensed" (www.sengpielaudio.com › calculator-levelchange)
Great informative video thank you. I’ve been told by a few people NOT to put sound deadening on the roof if you are in extreme heat areas, like Oz or Africa. Because the adhesive softens in extreme heat and because of the weight of the product, they start to fall off. What’s your thoughts on this? I see you’ve done it anyway but not sure how much feedback you have had from customers after a while.
Thank you. We have been doing this for a long time. I think a bigger concern is when the product is in a vertical position (doors/side panels) as extreme heat makes the product tacker and potentially it can slip/slide. Whenever we do installs we are conservative and use our aluminium foil tape to border the product to avoid this potential issue. You can also do that in the roof.
This guy could make a fortune lining man caves.
😆👍
Can't you ship to Europe? I can't find any similar product to your Sound Barrier Floor Mat in Sweden/Euroope
Hi KingBarve. We are looking to get over there in the not too distant future but that isn't going to help you out now. Sorry
Look up SilentCoat in UK
Look up for Reckhorn Alubutyl in Germany.
reckhorn.com/schall-waermedaemmung/abx-2-mm-alubutyl-schallisolierung-daemmmaterial
Buy 4-5 roles of it for Defender 110 SW. Stick it on any piece of metall you find and reduce noise by 30% (subjective).
It's worth the effort and you will enjoy every minute you drive.
Do yall ship to the US?
Hi there. Yes, we do. The shipping can be expensive (but a strong US dollar can counter that somewhat) Please feel free to email us what your interested in and your address details and we can organise a quote with shipping costs 👍P.S. We hope to be over in the US in the not too distant future.
If you were to just start with one section what do you think would cut down the most noise? I was thinking either the doors or the floor first? I can do the doors without pulling seats. I drive a crew cab Chevy Colorado pick up truck. Road noise is driving me nuts.
Start with the doors Chris as this is least intrusive and, as you said, you won't need to pull the seats. Is this noise on dirt or paved roads? Can you isolate where it is coming from? Do you think it is panel resonance or external road/engine noise? You will notice a significant improve with the Stage 1 on dirt/offroad tracks. The Stage 2 will be more effective in blocking droning or external road noise. 👍
Car Builders - Thermal & Acoustic insulation materials it is mostly road noise. The low hum noise from the tires. The sheet metal is so thin and I drive about 30,000 miles a year.
Well you won’t lose that in a car park.
Very good work but you have to rush too much. Go slow and be more practical. Not e everyone following you can catch up with that speed.
You don't have to rush too much.
really informative , but I wish you wouldn't talk up in your sentences all the time
😆👍
It’s called the antipode an inflection? Everyone in Australia does it?
heyy first!!
😆👍
That is such an annoying accent
Sorry mate 😬
@@carbuilders1 Grateful for your videos! Please keep going! Appreciate your genuine Ozzy accent.
Car Builders - Thermal & Acoustic insulation materials he’s the dick with a problem mate. You can used to an accent if you like what the persons saying! I wonder what he sounds like?