Pal, I follow several 3d printing chanels, but now I am assembling a upgraded old printer and it´s the only one that provided the informations that are usefull for me. Thanks a lot for your time and step by step explanations, much more useful than oficial chanels. Godspeed you!
Lol, dude, I spent 8 hours yesterday with this EXACT board and a BLtouch. Wracking my brain. If only I waited a day lol. Good content man! I mashed up your tft 35 video and teaching techs Marlin guide. Got there eventually.
I have an older Taz 5 that was in need of rebuild. I've gutted it completely, rebuilt the bed, and x and y axes, and this video couldn't be more timely as I've purchased the SKR to replace the older Rambo 1.4 board. I'm starting with the SKR and Marlin 2.0 from zero. So I would benefit from any Marlin 2.0 setup videos that you would continue to produce. Thanks for sharing and Happy New Year.
Good to know. I'm still running the stock firmware on my tornado and it's still working great after more than a year. Haven't had to level the bed in about a year either so I haven't really seen a need for ABL.
This is hugely helpful. I have progressed in my 3D printing to the point where I now need to modify firmware settings and this was exactly some of the information I needed to understand. Thank you. I'm in the process of replacing the board and screen in my anycubic kobra 2. The firmware is so sub-par it is really sad. That trigorilla board has got to go. I'd mess with firmware if I could find a build for it but since I can't it's going to go. But I want to reuse as many parts as possible and the inductive probe works well so I didn't want to replace it. This video gave me exactly what I needed to keep it.
Happy holidays and thanks Chris from Germany. Yes, I‘d like to see a vid about the the remaining setup in Marlin 2.0 final. At the moment I’m struggling with the Bltouch. The printer doesn’t consider the results from the leveling during printing an thus some areas are ok on the bed and some not (the nozzle is too much above the bed). I don‘t find the mistake.
Happy holidays!!! Cool, I will work on that. I have heard of a lot of people struggling with this. It seems like some of the newer sensor are inconsistent.
@Klaus I have exactly the same problem. And I thought I was alone with it. I updated my firmware several times and flashed but no improvement.With the old firmware (Marlin 2.0 bugfix from August) never had any problems but since I flashed the new Marlin I have had the problem. Maybe Chris Riley knows a little more about it?
Really informative video. I was struggling to get my settings right after I installed bltouch. Now I have everything working the way it should. Thanks you for this detailed video.
It makes me want to get a printer that runs Marlin again! (Two run Duet/RRF, and the Prusa MK3 doesn’t count). If only Paulo had created a build guide for that mini-printer of his. Nicely done as always, Chris. Have a relaxing Holiday break - Merry Christmas!
@@ameliabuns4058 I'm very happy with the Duet boards and RRF, but I like variety. Same way I have a Delta printer, a standard i3 Cartesian printer, and a CoreXY printer.
Thanks Chris, yet another great video. Personally I have found the results to be much better from the Mesh if I enter an M420 S1 and M420 Z10 (if not done on LCD) - to get full usable advantage for the ABL, the restore G28 - seems to not be enough. I have had some struggle getting the first layer to work/give the benefits on my Ender5, but after including the M420 S1 in the start code in the slicer - the first layer is almoust perfect, so are the prints :) . Keep em coming - I love all your videos. Greetings from Norway
Chris Riley yeah. Seems it’s not possible to get it to «stick» from command line. I have rund M420 S1 followed by M500 a lot of times. M420 always reports It’s in «off» state after print or revboot. When running it after G28 in start script it always use the mesh and good results. The fade does however stick even from command and M500 save. So that one is only needed to run and save ones - to my best knowledge.
@@stigberntsen9301 I have been trying to figure out how to setup my gcode in my slicer, should it look like this: G28 ; home all axes G29; BLTOUCH mesh generation M420 S1 G92 E0.0 G1 Z5; G1 X10 Y10 Z0 F6000; G1 X60.0 E9.0 F1000.0 ; intro line G1 X100.0 E12.5 F1000.0 ; intro line G92 E0.0 I am not sure if I should leave G29 in. I have seen you only need to do G29 once and store it with M500.
D C Personally i do G28 from pronterface or something similar (octoprint) then G29 and finally M500 + M501. This measure and save/load the settings. Then in my script i Use G28; to home all. I comment out the G29 ( only use it if needed since the bed normally stays leveled as is) after G28 i put M420 S1 Z10 ( latter is fade hight). I re-run G29 and save new mesh aprox 3-4 times in a year.
For anyone who needs to switch the fan pins (from the pins to the screw terminals), you need to go to the "pins_BTT_SKR.h" thats in Marlin-2.0.x/Marlin/src/pins/lpc1768.
Pnp sensor is an positive, negative and positive signal. Npn is negative, positive and negative signal. NC is a normally closed ( when sensor activate the signal cuts off ) NO is a normally open ( when sensor activate it will give a signal )
I split up my gcode between the 2 tabs for printer and filament. Probably overkill, but in the past I've needed to tweak minor values between brands for adhesion.
If you purchase the Creality Kit Bltouch, the servo wires match the SKR 1.3, so no modification necessary. At least it was the same with mine. Simple plug n play
12v sensors may be a better choice as detection distance will be higher. Easy to connect with mosfet. And other sources are saying that bltouch it's much better than inductive sensors. Prusa is using integrated temperature sensor (while wire) to compensate temperature deviation but it's still sensible to be humidity levels as well and bed material.
12v does give you a bit more distance. From my testing, inductive probes are more accurate than bltouch sensors. Are you thinking of capacitive sensors maybe?
@@ChrisRiley To double check: Autoleveling on 3D printers: 9 myths and 12 sensors tested! (By Thomas S.) ua-cam.com/video/il9bNWn66BY/v-deo.html It looks like I was indeed confused,, thanks!
I wish Marlin would warn you about high deviation like klipper does. you can set a value in klipper (I use 0.05) and if the deviation between 2 or more probes get higher it tries to probe again (I set it to try up to 2 times) and if that doesn't work it'll just stop and throw an error!
You have a few different names over accounts and Twitter so I am going with Ami...;) All kidding aside, Marlin is trying to get there. Check out. //#define ABL_BILINEAR_SUBDIVISION #if ENABLED(ABL_BILINEAR_SUBDIVISION) // Number of subdivisions between probe points #define BILINEAR_SUBDIVISIONS 3 #endif
@@ChrisRiley oh cool! But yeah xD I named this account emily (my real name is Amy) because I was worried about putting my real name in my channel but I now realize I was probably too paranoid. I'll probably see if I can change the channel name to my own again xD
Just a heads up. The Marlin project has just released version 2.0.1 (official). There's a ton of fixes and features in there, despite the 0.0.1 increase in the version number, check it out.
I have some experience with g code on vinyl cutters, CNC routers, and laser cutters but my BIQU BX is only my second 3D printer. I am confused about two things that I think you can probably answer off the top of your head. 1) With Bilinear bed leveling, are the adjustments relative to the front left of the machine or the middle. It would seem I should set Z0 at the first point or maybe the highest point to make sure the bed leveling is always relative to the real Z0. 2) I never understood why we set Z0 to 0.1mm (thickness of paper) instead of actual 0 when my first g code move sets Z up by the thickness of the first layer. Shouldn't I move Z down to the thickness of paper then move it to a safe space and set it down an additional 0.1mm before saving Z0?
Just started watching your videos to rfesearch auto bed leveling. Love them! Informative and concise. I bought an Anet A8 style printer 3 or 4 years ago. Does the Marlin 2.0 and bed leveling translate to the control board it came with? All the best!
Thanks for watching! You can get it on there, you will have to disable some of the features to get it to fit. There are examples for the A8 out on the Marlin github that should work.
Hey Chris, great guide as always. Thanks to your previous videos (and Michael at Teaching Tech), I already have the BL Touch set up on the #Borg and it works perfectly. I was wondering if you would do a video on moving from Marlin 2.0.x bugfix to the final release 2.0.0. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and your family.
Thanks, Spike, it's my pleasure to make these videos. Yeah, we can work up something like that. I want to use the VScode compare option and see how that goes. Merry Christmas and happy holidays to you and yours!
I think maybe you are confusing Normally Closed vs Normally Open (NC vs NO) for PNP and NPN. Maybe I need to watch again closer, but when you invert the login in Marlin you are more accurately changing from a NC vs NO. PNP is Sourcing, which means the switch will push the voltage out the signal, thereby pulling the signal high, otherwise it is left floating. The NPN is sinking, which pulls the signal low (0v ref) when the signal actuates. Both of these type switches can come in NC or NO configurations.
Wow! This is just the tip of the many variables as variety of printers there are. I am tweaking a FLSUN i3 Plus and Marlin misses the FLUN printers! Oh well.
Nicely done. Would like to have learned more about the BLTouch .... do you have another vid planned with let's say: CR-10S w/ Creality v2.1 board, Marlin 2.0, BLTouch? ;) ..... plz? Thanks!
Chris Riley Great! 👍 - it’s been a real pain to try and get it (above combo) dialed in. I started with a PrintrBot Simple Wood 1405 (great little starter and great project with my son). I’m looking forward to the next vid!
chris, thank you for a great video to do the actual firmware upgrade on a MKR1.3 , just send M997, that will do a reset of the board and then auto upgrade
Great video. Installed the PINDA working but now the hotbed is not heating. Have watched your other video on setting up the MKS Gen-L, Tested the power outlets for the heatbed on the board and they have 0 volts, as if they are not being activated. Was wondering if there could be a conflict in the pin assignments with the filament sensor and the mosfet? Any advise?
Great tutorial Chris thank you. Just set up my Ender 3 with SKR 1.4 turbo and BL Touch v3.1. Never used ABL before so just testing but is there a min and max value that the Z axis will move to compensate for different levels across bed? When I get the mesh values my bed is pretty good but I don’t see any movement in the Z axis at all?
Thanks! I am not sure if there is a min or max, but I know there is a low point, so you can't go to far in the negative. You might check out the fade height setting as well.
Great explaination. Can you please explain how can I install 6v to 36v inductive type of proximity sensor on BTT SKR v 1.4? I have really stuck from many days
@@ChrisRiley I have used voltage divider using 15k and 10k resistor and used probe pins to attach my proximity sensor. Not it shows status of OPEN or TRIGGERED correctly. But my z-axis moves up and down even my z-probe status is triggered. What can I do for this ? Sending M119 showing my 4 endstops status as follows: X_min: open Y_min:open Z_min:open Z_probe: triggered Kindly give me your suggestions on this. Actually i checked my all the endstops. It triggers correctly but can't stop my printer when they triggered
I am using this screen www.amazon.com/BIGTREETECH-Graphic-Display-Controller-Printer/dp/B07VWF4W3J/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=69WSAC297AAG&dchild=1&keywords=bigtreetech+tft35+v3.0&qid=1598130406&sprefix=bigtreetech%2Caps%2C200&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzOTZRUFdaUUFENVE1JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODAxNTE3Mk1TVjhWVjUzQjRaWSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTA0MTk0MzZZSkQxQVQxTTFBNCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= Here is a video: ua-cam.com/video/57f-sG0nFeM/v-deo.html
BLtouch setup questions. 1. BL offset setup? 2. TMC2208 endstop sensing? 3. So my BL is now my z endstop? 4. Is a BL considered a PNP or NPN; guessing the code automatically sets it up when selecting BL? How do I setup a BLtouch when the sensor is not adjustable up or down? When it's deployed I'm guessing it's going to hit z endstop before the extruder hits. Then I'll retract it to drop the extruder with baby steps to calibrate z offset. I'm trying to set up with my TMC2208. Does z safe homing relate to the 2208 endstop sensing. I'm close, but need some confidence on not crashing head.
1. BL offset setup? That's the measurement from the nozzle to the sensor. 2. TMC2208 endstop sensing? No, but 2209's have it. 3. So my BL is now my z endstop? It can be, or you can do both. Most times yes. 4. Is a BL considered a PNP or NPN; guessing the code automatically sets it up when selecting BL? How do I setup a BLtouch when the sensor is not adjustable up or down? When it's deployed I'm guessing it's going to hit z endstop before the extruder hits. Then I'll retract it to drop the extruder with baby steps to calibrate z offset. I'm trying to set up with my TMC2208. Does z safe homing relate to the 2208 endstop sensing. I'm close, but need some confidence on not crashing head. I am not sure, but I would call it an NPN, it will alert you if it is not set correctly. To setup the height there is some guess work involved, the bltouch doc trys to give you a guide for where to place it. The sensor should tap the bed before it hits the endstop. Correct, it will be up when babystepping. No z safe safe homing just lets you home in another location besides the corner of the bed.
hi chris, i have a delta printer when i installed my metal sensor and my bed is wham bam i do auto delta calibration 32 but i get a prompt to deploy the probe what did i miss in marlin ?
Hi Chris! Thank you for the vid, it is really clear! However I have an issue with my Anet, where I just installed the BLTouch and the latest marlin firmware. I set the probe up, as in your video, but when I start printing (after G28 and G29 and after ZO setup) I don't know why but the nozzle of my e3d dives into the bed. It makes a side of the object quite nice, while when it moves to the right side of the object, the Z moves down and the nozzle is almost carving my bed. I can see the lines the nozzle makes on the bed. It is super weird, because it starts fine, with the right first layer height but then the Z goes down. It seems that the machine is trying to leveling the bed, but in the wrong direction. It should lift the Z on the right side of the bed, because it is a bit higher than the left side. I tried to set the babystepping movement to true, but nothing changed. Do you have any clue on how to solve this problem? Many thanks again for the guide and the help!
Hello, what does the level map look like after the G29? You should be able to see it in pronterface or a terminal after the G29 runs. In your M503 output, is you Z offset correct? Check the M851 line.
@@ChrisRiley Hi! The map is quite nice actually, no value higher than 0.5. I also went back to the bug fix 2.x, which is the one I have on my CreatBot w/BLTouch and that works like a charm. Also with that firmware, the problem persists. I really don't have a clue
Ah right, the offset is correct when I check it on my printer. Could it be the whole printer to be unlevelled? I checked the x rods and they are fine, I really don't know what it could be honestly . It is frustrating because the printer is fine, but damn the nozzle really dives into the bed from left to right sides. Btw, the map values are all negatives for the right side of the bed
Hi, I'm using a 5v inductive sensor and ubl together with a skr e3 mini v2.0 board. I needed to extend the cables of the sensor so I first used dupont connectors for that. Everything worked fine. Now the only change I made is to get rid of the dupont connectors, solder on the wires and finally put all my "x carriage" cables into a mesh sleeve...it was a pita and involed a lot of pulling on the cables. After all that now if I do g29 p1 the sensor probes all reachable points, beeps but then moves a bit to the side and the nozzle just crashes into the bed....no idea why. I can't imagine I damaged a solder point or sth... and I also was careful to wire it corretly. I grab the 5v from the probe header on the board, gnd and signal from the z-endstop header. Any ideas what could be wrong? I really don't want to pull the probe cable out again of the mesh sleeving :(
Only thing I can think of is you aren't getting readings to the endstop/probe pin. So it fails probing and has no idea what to do with your offset. Check the wires again I guess.
@@ChrisRiley turns out I wired them wrong. But now another weird issue appeared: so, turning the printer on and homing moves the probe to the center but then moves it up a bit instead of down. Once I trigger the probe with sth magnetic so red light on the probe goes on and off, then auto home it homes as expected. Never had tht before. If I turn the printer off and on again, same issue: z moves up on auto home until I manually trigger the probe once
I'm having a lot of problems. Will a NPN NO (normally open) probe logic work? Does the normal Z end stop switch make the circuit OR break the circuit? My probe under a 5 volt power supply connection always has 5 volts on the signal wire. Touching the probe end with many different metal objects does not change the 5 volts on the signal wire. I think my 'NEW' probe is bad.
Hi Chris. Merry Christmas!!! Just a quick question regarding the probe you're using. Is it compatible with anycubic ultrabase glass plate or I have to switch to a spring sheet to use this method. Thank you in advance Andreas
I just got an EZABL from TH3D. I'm new to 3D printing but I would presume that to be an inductive sensor like you spoke about in the video. Will this tutorial work for setting up that particular sensor?
Chris thanks so much for your videos. You so precise and clear. I ha ve a cr10s and I am installing a sensor probe. I am having issues with homing. Do you think you could help me out some? I could record a video and show you. Thanks so much
@@ChrisRiley thanks so much. I didnt want to bother you with silly questions, so I have been all this time testing, fixing and improving the firmware that I got from "THE FIRST LAYER" he talks a lot about cr10s and thats exactly what I got. I have installed many things like an ABL sensor and thats exactly what I am wondering about. so far so good, the firmware works great but I have noticed that everytime I run a print it never performs a bed leveling with the sensor. it just starts printing. only when I select the leveling sensor from the LCD menu it performs the task. but only if I select it but it doesnt do it alone before everytime.
hi, Chris. According to this video, I've got two questions for you. First, Imagine there is a little hole in the bed and the probe detect it. When printing the first layer, will the nozzle go down to the lowerest point in the hole(negetive Z comparing Z zero), with softend limitation turning on? Second, is the bed surface is not perfectly level, it is meaningless to just pick one point of referrece for z-offset calculation. Will it be accurate to calculate several points and then use the average value?
It's hard to explain in text, but ABL will only get you so far. If there was a hole, it will skew your results, but it will go into the negative to try and compensate. It will ignore the software endstop. THe offset is only used to set the distance from the probe range to the nozzle. The leveling will take care of it.
Phil Hutton Great video Chris. I have been trying to install Bigtreetech SKR 2 Rev B and TFT35 V3.0. When power is applied I get a beep and a message saying "Failed to enable Bed Leveling" it will "Auto Home" fine and will still start "Auto Leveling" but the motherboard restarts "reboots" every 3 minutes. This has been happing from the start. Do you think the board is bad? I think I have waited to late to return it. What is your thoughts?
Hi Chris.. thanks for you well made videos to learner from. will the Creality 3D Mainboard - V2.0 be abel to use yours sensor on the Z-endstop ? Grettings from Denmark
Any chance you could do one on UBL? The one I have is 24v and seems to work...just not the UBL part. I have been trying to get it set up and it only wants to probe in one spot. The board is the SKR 1.4 Turbo, which I installed using your video.
Happy New Years Chris. Love your videos. I have an unusual board on my Hypercube 3d printer. I'm using the MKS-Robin v2.3 with the TFT screen v1.1 and I don't seem to be able to configure Marlin 2.0 to run on my board. It is has the STM32F103ZE chip on it. It up loads fine, when I restart the board the touchscreen says "completed", the hot end cooling fan comes on for a second and then the board goes into protection mode and has a blinking blue led by the reset button. I never get anything of Marlin to display on the touchscreen. Is there a better place to tap into your knowledge?
Thanks for getting back to me Chris. MKS has Marlin 2.0 as one of two firmwares, however, they don't support it well and it seems that the original Marlin 2.0 was to be compiled with Atom and an earlier version of PlatformIO and with updates and the fluid nature of Marlin the compatibility was lost, or may never had been there for the TFT v1.1. It seems the people that have been able to get it to work have TFT v2.0. There are a couple guys within the Marlin world that may be trying to get the version 1.1 TFT put into the main Marlin again. The fork version they are working with did get Marlin working on my board and screen, but touch buttons are not working yet. I was hoping that perhaps you had a magic touch or connections within the Matrix. If not that is ok I just thought I'd try. Happy New Year!
I just bought an anet a8+ 3d printer, it has a filament runout sensor installed and an auto bed leveling without probe (manual moving z-direction at 16 points on the bed). I want to upgrade my auto bed leveling with bl touch or else and probe (auto z-direction move to 16 points in bed) in my upgrade plan, how to edit the firmware? do I have to back up the firmware setting 1st then add a new setting? I'm a total newbie
Unfortunately, you can't do a backup, so you just have to jump in and fight it until it's correct. The best you can do is run a M503 and pull some of the printer data then use that to update a vanilla version of Marlin.
Is it possible in Marlin to wire a standard Z endstop switch to the Z-MIN-ENDSTOP port and an inductive probe to the Z-MAX-ENDSTOP port, and then have the firmware use the endstop switch to home the Z axis, but use the inductive probe to level the bed? In this case the endstop switch fires when the nozzle just touches the bed, and the inductive probe will fire at some point above the level of the probe (which is the Z probe offset value). I'd like to add the inductive probe, but keep the z endstop.
Yes, you can do this, you would use this feature #define Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN 32 instead of this one #define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN then just use your max endstop pin from your pins file.
I'm having an issue. When I choose to export to compiled binary I get an error. I have the BLtouch kid that comes with the burner and the progisp program. It only works when I flash Hex files
Thank you for this gr8 tutorial !! unfortunately after following all steps (few times..) , it seems that after G29 is executed, the nozzle stays 5mm above the bed and when I start a print it stays there. LCD is indicating Z:5 but there is no way to lower it from the software or GCode. Any idea why this is happening ?
Chris I'm still getting an error with my BLTOUCH On my Ender 3 Pro with SKR Mini e3 v1.2 Below is the G29, For some reason it Goes to Z10 but does not lower when probing. G29 X41.00 Y10.00 Z10.00 Machine Type: Cartesian Probe: BLTOUCH Probe Offset X-41.00 Y-10.00 Z0.80 (Left-Front & Above Nozzle) Auto Bed Leveling: BILINEAR (disabled) >>> do_blocking_move_to X41.00 Y10.00 Z10.00 > X41.00 Y10.00 Z10.00 > Probe::probe_at_point X41.00 Y10.00 Z10.00 ...(0.00, 0.00, raise, 0, probe_relative) current_position= X41.00 Y10.00 Z10.00 : >>> do_blocking_move_to X41.00 Y10.00 Z10.00 > X41.00 Y10.00 Z10.00 > do_blocking_move_to X41.00 Y10.00 Z10.00 > X41.00 Y10.00 Z10.00
That's really strange, it acts like it's in error state and tries to recover. I am wondering if the sensor it's self needs some adjustment. You can adjust the setscrew to raise and lower the pin position. Not sure it will help but you can give it a try.
@@ChrisRiley: I figured it out! #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_LEFT MIN_PROBE_EDGE #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_RIGHT 15 #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_FRONT 15 #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_BACK 15 and #define X_MIN_POS -35 #define Y_MIN_POS 0 #define Z_MIN_POS 0 is what I needed. Thanks so much for your guides!!
In the SKR 1.4 (non turbo) am I enabling pulldowns/pullups (or touching any of that) while using Bltouch 3.1 as my Z sensor, prob going to use sensorless homing as well with the TMC2209 in UART mode. Other thought I had was, install a Z switch, in case the BLtouch fails and wants to crash into the center of the Earth?
@@ChrisRiley yeah I got them in their servos designated homes on the board, which I think is what I need? I've read conflicting reports of needing to clip/unsolder and not needing to clip that diag pin under those TMC 2209s.
Hey Chris your videos are great!, So I'm trying to setup BL touch with my SKR_1.4 Turbo, with 2209 drivers, stelthshop and stallgard are enabled, when # define Z_SAFE_HOMING is turned on with default setting and If i upload that and use G28 if the nozzle is already over the center of the bed it tries to move to the center of the bed again before zeroing out so it thinks when its over the bed or wherever it is, that its 0 that it starts from, sorry it's hard to explain what the printer is doing, basically exceeding its limits and crashing in the opposite direction of home. because it is trying to safe home why is that?
So it should always be doing Z last. The only thing I can think of it stallgaurd is getting triggered. I would turn off sensorless homing and try again, see if that lets it home normally.
I've gotten this working great on older versions of marlin on 8 bit boards, but am not having the same luck with my SKR 1.3 (running Marlin 2.0). It compiles and uploads fine, but M119 always returns 'open', even if I hold a tool under the probe (triggering it). I have it wired to my Z- endstop, and I've set this up in my firmware. Any ideas on what's going wrong/where I should start looking?
11:17 I tried changing mine to Grid_max_points_x 5 which gives me the 5x5 probed grid when I manually tell the printer to auto level. but now when it prints, once it gets to the g29 command my printer goes to the corner like it's going to probe but instead just pauses then continues on with the print. I have it enabled in the firmware to reload the mesh after G28 and it gave me a great first layer so I believe it did in fact load the mesh. The G29 it right after the G28 am i missing something in the start G-Code?
Most of the time when you see that in Marlin the probe has throw an error. If you can't figure it out, you can turn on debugging and it will throw the information in a terminal window for you. * Enable detailed logging of G28, G29, M48, etc. * Turn on with the command 'M111 S32'. * NOTE: Requires a lot of PROGMEM! */ //#define DEBUG_LEVELING_FEATURE
@@ChrisRiley Thanks for the help Chris! I managed to fix the problem by just changing #define Z_PROBE_LOW_POINT from -2 > -7 worst case if the probe fails my bed will ram into the nozzle for a few seconds. -2 wasn't enough for my -3.825 z offset. But of course, fix one problem and another arises. When the print starts the Z moves to 6mm and prints in mid air. changing the Z offset does nothing, setting it to 10 or -10 offset doesn't matter it still goes to 6mm for the print :/
First of all, thank you for such a study. I did the application but I have a problem. Since it tries to go to the specified points very fast, it gives motor step error. What can I do because it wasn't slow. I tried to reduce the speed.
I have a problem. I set the correct probe to nozzle offset, but the printer does not calculate that in the equation. The min probe edge is taken into the ewuation. what am i doing wrong? #define X_NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET -4 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle] #define Y_NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET -74 // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle] #define Z_NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET 0 // Z offset: -below +above [the nozzle]
Hi Chris. I’m having an issue where I was able to change the Z-probe offset on the User Interface only one time. I can no longer change it. I’m not sure If I accidentally changed a setting that locked it or if it is just a bug. Do you happen to know of anyway to fix this? I believe I am using Marlin 2.0.3
Hi nice video, but I have a problen I set the noozle to probe offset -30,0,0 but when I run G29 the probe goes to far from the bed to the left and the noozle is the only thing above the bed and the probe can not sense anything, what am I doing wrong chris? please
What kills me is the LCD displays 0.000 resolution, but M851 only reports 0.00 accuracy. I'm never sure in terminal if I had a - 1.125 or - 1.130 that resulted in a response of - 1.13 unless I look at the LCD. It's not much granted, but still dumb that terminal doesn't show that last digit.
First of all thanks for sharing, i made all the setting in the video, But for the 9-point measurement, it measures 6 points and goes on to print. (I use Skr v1.3 card, MK2 heatbed (4mm glass on), 5V 18mm NPN Prop) Do you have any suggestions for a solution?
@@rahimelhajdk Alien icon > In project tasks, it's the first env. If you can't find it make sure you have the folder added that contains the marlin folder.
@@ChrisRiley thanks a lot but my problem is bigger than that.. I’ve just upgraded my CR20-Pro with micro Swiss DD and hotend, while I have a silent-board V2.2.1 and I have marlin 2.0 on it After following the instructions, I got a problem with changing the configurations of firmware which is already installed on my printer, since I need to change the XY offsets. The new values should be as following: X= -10 Y= -26 The problem is that I’m unable to edit the firmware, I changed the values and flash it with xloader or cura, but nothing has been changed, someone told me that it’s because the .hex file is the same and I need to recompile/create a new .hex file. Noting that I could edit and flash it with arduino IDE, there was a problem with compiling, and tried to flash the firmware successfully with Prusa slicer, but nothing has been changed. And while I’m trying with visual studio code compiling, I’m getting a failure message.
No wonder other UA-camr's refer to your technical know how! Good and informative video Chris.
LOL, thanks Sergio!
Dude... I was pulling my hair off messing around with 2.0 because of the boundaries change and your video popped up. BIG THANKS!
Great! Glad it helped out.
Chris I have never seen anything from you that doesn't deserve a thumbs up, its just a shame you can't give it more. Thanks
That's so nice of you, thanks!
Pal, I follow several 3d printing chanels, but now I am assembling a upgraded old printer and it´s the only one that provided the informations that are usefull for me. Thanks a lot for your time and step by step explanations, much more useful than oficial chanels. Godspeed you!
Thank you very much for this comment, I do what I can. ;)
Lol, dude, I spent 8 hours yesterday with this EXACT board and a BLtouch. Wracking my brain. If only I waited a day lol. Good content man! I mashed up your tft 35 video and teaching techs Marlin guide. Got there eventually.
LOL, doh, at least you got it.
Hi Chris; I'm currently at the moment and your video was excellent, I finally leveled my homemade prusa mk2s, I congratulate you thanks.
Merry Christmas!!! The best technical 3d channel on the Tubes!
Thank you Chris, Merry Christmas!
Merry Christmas to your family. The best instruction on how to change Marlin and especially the probe offset values. Keep it up Chris!
Merry Christmas Dave! As always thanks for watching and the continued support.
I was frustrated with getting my BL Touch to work . . . but your video cleared it all up. Followed the steps and viola! Thank you soooo much!! :)
Glad it helped!
good explanations, straight to the point without missing details, amazing work! Thank you Chris, that's exactly what I needed
Thanks for the comment, glad it helped you.
I have an older Taz 5 that was in need of rebuild. I've gutted it completely, rebuilt the bed, and x and y axes, and this video couldn't be more timely as I've purchased the SKR to replace the older Rambo 1.4 board. I'm starting with the SKR and Marlin 2.0 from zero. So I would benefit from any Marlin 2.0 setup videos that you would continue to produce. Thanks for sharing and Happy New Year.
Nice! We will do a full walkthrough for sure, happy new year, 2020 will be awesome.
your videos are treasure for beginners like me, thank you so much .... i search a problem on google and your video comes first ....
Thank you so much! I'm glad I could help
Thank you for the video, you got to the point quickly compared to other junk videos out there.
Thanks Leo!
Good to know. I'm still running the stock firmware on my tornado and it's still working great after more than a year. Haven't had to level the bed in about a year either so I haven't really seen a need for ABL.
Nice! I always prefer the hardware be stable then trying to comperstate.
Hey Chris, thank you for your helpfull videos! You show just the right level of detail for most people that want to actually work with their printer!
Thank you for watching! Glad it helped.
What a wonderful Christmas surprise! Happy holidays Riley family!
Thanks Matt! Happy holidays!
This is hugely helpful. I have progressed in my 3D printing to the point where I now need to modify firmware settings and this was exactly some of the information I needed to understand. Thank you. I'm in the process of replacing the board and screen in my anycubic kobra 2. The firmware is so sub-par it is really sad. That trigorilla board has got to go. I'd mess with firmware if I could find a build for it but since I can't it's going to go. But I want to reuse as many parts as possible and the inductive probe works well so I didn't want to replace it. This video gave me exactly what I needed to keep it.
That's great, thanks for watching!
Happy holidays and thanks Chris from Germany.
Yes, I‘d like to see a vid about the the remaining setup in Marlin 2.0 final.
At the moment I’m struggling with the Bltouch. The printer doesn’t consider the results from the leveling during printing an thus some areas are ok on the bed and some not (the nozzle is too much above the bed). I don‘t find the mistake.
Happy holidays!!! Cool, I will work on that. I have heard of a lot of people struggling with this. It seems like some of the newer sensor are inconsistent.
@Klaus
I have exactly the same problem. And I thought I was alone with it. I updated my firmware several times and flashed but no improvement.With the old firmware (Marlin 2.0 bugfix from August) never had any problems but since I flashed the new Marlin I have had the problem. Maybe Chris Riley knows a little more about it?
@Oliver Sierra Which version of BLtouch are you using? I‘m using V3.0.
@@KPTnVAN I have the exact same version. Are you in the BigTreeTech Facebook group? (I can also speak German, because I come from Luxembourg)
@@KPTnVAN I think this one is a v2.0, it's the first one with the plastic pin.
The best description in the internet, thanks 🙏
Thank you!
Really informative video. I was struggling to get my settings right after I installed bltouch. Now I have everything working the way it should. Thanks you for this detailed video.
Glad it was helpful!
It makes me want to get a printer that runs Marlin again! (Two run Duet/RRF, and the Prusa MK3 doesn’t count). If only Paulo had created a build guide for that mini-printer of his. Nicely done as always, Chris. Have a relaxing Holiday break - Merry Christmas!
We got to work on Paulo! Lol, Merry Christmas John, thank you.
But but duet firmware is so awesome! It has dynamic acceleration!
@@ameliabuns4058 I'm very happy with the Duet boards and RRF, but I like variety. Same way I have a Delta printer, a standard i3 Cartesian printer, and a CoreXY printer.
@@ChrisRiley Indeed! Maybe if we all please in his Thingiverse comments... :)
I was just wondering about this! What a great Christmas present, thanks Chris
Nice! Merry Christmas!
Thanks Chris, yet another great video. Personally I have found the results to be much better from the Mesh if I enter an M420 S1 and M420 Z10 (if not done on LCD) - to get full usable advantage for the ABL, the restore G28 - seems to not be enough. I have had some struggle getting the first layer to work/give the benefits on my Ender5, but after including the M420 S1 in the start code in the slicer - the first layer is almoust perfect, so are the prints :) . Keep em coming - I love all your videos. Greetings from Norway
Thanks Stig! I have been playing with the M420 recently, lulxbot uses it a lot. I am thinking this might be a great thing to go over in a video.
Chris Riley yeah. Seems it’s not possible to get it to «stick» from command line. I have rund M420 S1 followed by M500 a lot of times. M420 always reports It’s in «off» state after print or revboot. When running it after G28 in start script it always use the mesh and good results. The fade does however stick even from command and M500 save. So that one is only needed to run and save ones - to my best knowledge.
@@stigberntsen9301 I have been trying to figure out how to setup my gcode in my slicer, should it look like this:
G28 ; home all axes
G29; BLTOUCH mesh generation
M420 S1
G92 E0.0
G1 Z5;
G1 X10 Y10 Z0 F6000;
G1 X60.0 E9.0 F1000.0 ; intro line
G1 X100.0 E12.5 F1000.0 ; intro line
G92 E0.0
I am not sure if I should leave G29 in. I have seen you only need to do G29 once and store it with M500.
D C Personally i do G28 from pronterface or something similar (octoprint) then G29 and finally M500 + M501. This measure and save/load the settings. Then in my script i Use G28; to home all. I comment out the G29 ( only use it if needed since the bed normally stays leveled as is) after G28 i put M420 S1 Z10 ( latter is fade hight). I re-run G29 and save new mesh aprox 3-4 times in a year.
Fantastic video - Answers to questions I have always had. thanks Chris
Thanks for watching Bob!
Great job doing this video! It helped me millions with my ANET A8! Thank you very much!! :)
Thanks! Glad it was help full.
This is litteraetly exactly what i needed now. THANK YOU so much =D this will hopefully help me! Have a awesome day
Awesome!
Thank you for your work on your great videos. You have helped me with your videos several times. I will support you with Patreon in the future. :)
Thank you so much Oliver, glad these have helped you.
For anyone who needs to switch the fan pins (from the pins to the screw terminals), you need to go to the "pins_BTT_SKR.h" thats in Marlin-2.0.x/Marlin/src/pins/lpc1768.
Thanks for the tip!
Pnp sensor is an positive, negative and positive signal.
Npn is negative, positive and negative signal.
NC is a normally closed ( when sensor activate the signal cuts off )
NO is a normally open ( when sensor activate it will give a signal )
Thanks for the info!
I split up my gcode between the 2 tabs for printer and filament. Probably overkill, but in the past I've needed to tweak minor values between brands for adhesion.
Ah, nice, that's a good idea, for flex and stuff that would be useful.
If you purchase the Creality Kit Bltouch, the servo wires match the SKR 1.3, so no modification necessary. At least it was the same with mine. Simple plug n play
Nice, good to know.
12v sensors may be a better choice as detection distance will be higher. Easy to connect with mosfet. And other sources are saying that bltouch it's much better than inductive sensors. Prusa is using integrated temperature sensor (while wire) to compensate temperature deviation but it's still sensible to be humidity levels as well and bed material.
12v does give you a bit more distance. From my testing, inductive probes are more accurate than bltouch sensors. Are you thinking of capacitive sensors maybe?
@@ChrisRiley To double check: Autoleveling on 3D printers: 9 myths and 12 sensors tested! (By Thomas S.) ua-cam.com/video/il9bNWn66BY/v-deo.html It looks like I was indeed confused,, thanks!
@@ChrisRiley 2mm vs up to 8mm :)) Times 40% in case of Al bed. Can be a deal breaker in case on non-metal print surface.
Great video like always Chris!
Do you planning to test and do some videos with SKR v1.4 Turbo?
Thank you!
Thanks! Yea, the boards are on the way!
I wish Marlin would warn you about high deviation like klipper does. you can set a value in klipper (I use 0.05) and if the deviation between 2 or more probes get higher it tries to probe again (I set it to try up to 2 times) and if that doesn't work it'll just stop and throw an error!
You have a few different names over accounts and Twitter so I am going with Ami...;) All kidding aside, Marlin is trying to get there. Check out.
//#define ABL_BILINEAR_SUBDIVISION
#if ENABLED(ABL_BILINEAR_SUBDIVISION)
// Number of subdivisions between probe points
#define BILINEAR_SUBDIVISIONS 3
#endif
@@ChrisRiley oh cool! But yeah xD I named this account emily (my real name is Amy) because I was worried about putting my real name in my channel but I now realize I was probably too paranoid. I'll probably see if I can change the channel name to my own again xD
Awesome! I’d like to see a video on Marlin 2.0 set up if you still plan on it
Cool, yes, I have a lot of these videos coming.
@@ChrisRiley Sweet! Thanks for all you do!
Just a heads up. The Marlin project has just released version 2.0.1 (official). There's a ton of fixes and features in there, despite the 0.0.1 increase in the version number, check it out.
Thanks man, will do!
I have some experience with g code on vinyl cutters, CNC routers, and laser cutters but my BIQU BX is only my second 3D printer. I am confused about two things that I think you can probably answer off the top of your head. 1) With Bilinear bed leveling, are the adjustments relative to the front left of the machine or the middle. It would seem I should set Z0 at the first point or maybe the highest point to make sure the bed leveling is always relative to the real Z0. 2) I never understood why we set Z0 to 0.1mm (thickness of paper) instead of actual 0 when my first g code move sets Z up by the thickness of the first layer. Shouldn't I move Z down to the thickness of paper then move it to a safe space and set it down an additional 0.1mm before saving Z0?
They are relative to the front left on that machine. The thickness of the paper should represent zero. It's just to give you a feel for where zero is.
Just started watching your videos to rfesearch auto bed leveling. Love them! Informative and concise.
I bought an Anet A8 style printer 3 or 4 years ago. Does the Marlin 2.0 and bed leveling translate to the control board it came with?
All the best!
Thanks for watching! You can get it on there, you will have to disable some of the features to get it to fit. There are examples for the A8 out on the Marlin github that should work.
Hey Chris, great guide as always. Thanks to your previous videos (and Michael at Teaching Tech), I already have the BL Touch set up on the #Borg and it works perfectly. I was wondering if you would do a video on moving from Marlin 2.0.x bugfix to the final release 2.0.0.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and your family.
Thanks, Spike, it's my pleasure to make these videos. Yeah, we can work up something like that. I want to use the VScode compare option and see how that goes. Merry Christmas and happy holidays to you and yours!
@@ChrisRiley That sounds perfect, I didn't even know VSC had a compare option. Can't wait 👍
I think maybe you are confusing Normally Closed vs Normally Open (NC vs NO) for PNP and NPN. Maybe I need to watch again closer, but when you invert the login in Marlin you are more accurately changing from a NC vs NO. PNP is Sourcing, which means the switch will push the voltage out the signal, thereby pulling the signal high, otherwise it is left floating. The NPN is sinking, which pulls the signal low (0v ref) when the signal actuates. Both of these type switches can come in NC or NO configurations.
I very well could be working off assumptions from experience. I will have to do some experiments.
Wow! This is just the tip of the many variables as variety of printers there are. I am tweaking a FLSUN i3 Plus and Marlin misses the FLUN printers! Oh well.
The options for different 3d printers seems unlimited these days.
Nicely done. Would like to have learned more about the BLTouch .... do you have another vid planned with let's say: CR-10S w/ Creality v2.1 board, Marlin 2.0, BLTouch? ;) ..... plz? Thanks!
Thanks BLtouch videos are coming up.
Chris Riley Great! 👍 - it’s been a real pain to try and get it (above combo) dialed in. I started with a PrintrBot Simple Wood 1405 (great little starter and great project with my son). I’m looking forward to the next vid!
Great walk through as always
Thanks for sharing 👍:-)
Thanks Asger!
chris, thank you for a great video
to do the actual firmware upgrade on a MKR1.3 , just send M997, that will do a reset of the board and then auto upgrade
Nice! I will try that out.
Great video. Installed the PINDA working but now the hotbed is not heating. Have watched your other video on setting up the MKS Gen-L, Tested the power outlets for the heatbed on the board and they have 0 volts, as if they are not being activated. Was wondering if there could be a conflict in the pin assignments with the filament sensor and the mosfet? Any advise?
Hmmm...it could be I guess, but that sounds kind of strange. I would check the pins file though, just to be sure.
Would like a video on what it takes to go from bug fix version to official 2.0 😁 Happy Holidays Sir
Yeah, unfortunately it's a complete redo, but we can do a scratch walkthrough that will help.
Great tutorial Chris thank you. Just set up my Ender 3 with SKR 1.4 turbo and BL Touch v3.1. Never used ABL before so just testing but is there a min and max value that the Z axis will move to compensate for different levels across bed? When I get the mesh values my bed is pretty good but I don’t see any movement in the Z axis at all?
Thanks! I am not sure if there is a min or max, but I know there is a low point, so you can't go to far in the negative. You might check out the fade height setting as well.
Great explaination. Can you please explain how can I install 6v to 36v inductive type of proximity sensor on BTT SKR v 1.4? I have really stuck from many days
You probably need to grab 12v/24v for this. Check this out. ua-cam.com/video/EcGFLwj0pnA/v-deo.html
@@ChrisRiley I have used voltage divider using 15k and 10k resistor and used probe pins to attach my proximity sensor. Not it shows status of OPEN or TRIGGERED correctly. But my z-axis moves up and down even my z-probe status is triggered. What can I do for this ?
Sending M119 showing my 4 endstops status as follows:
X_min: open
Y_min:open
Z_min:open
Z_probe: triggered
Kindly give me your suggestions on this.
Actually i checked my all the endstops. It triggers correctly but can't stop my printer when they triggered
@@vishalpatil571 Do you have your probe attached to the Z min endstop pins? That is the only way it will stop Z.
Hi Chris, what printer are you using? There is a open-source project for it?
It's a MK2 clone made out of wood. Check this out. toms3d.org/2017/02/23/building-cheapest-possible-prusa-i3-mk2/
@@ChrisRiley Thank you for the fast reply. Between them, what upgrades are included in your improved model?
@@cristianfo Too many to count, LOL, bondtech extruder gears, MK3S extruder body, integrated lead screw motors, MK42 bed, SKR 1.3 board currently.
Hi Chris
Please tell me which screen do you use. Its looking nice.
If its a full graphic discount smart controller refer me how to configure it
I am using this screen www.amazon.com/BIGTREETECH-Graphic-Display-Controller-Printer/dp/B07VWF4W3J/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=69WSAC297AAG&dchild=1&keywords=bigtreetech+tft35+v3.0&qid=1598130406&sprefix=bigtreetech%2Caps%2C200&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzOTZRUFdaUUFENVE1JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODAxNTE3Mk1TVjhWVjUzQjRaWSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTA0MTk0MzZZSkQxQVQxTTFBNCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
Here is a video:
ua-cam.com/video/57f-sG0nFeM/v-deo.html
BLtouch setup questions.
1. BL offset setup?
2. TMC2208 endstop sensing?
3. So my BL is now my z endstop?
4. Is a BL considered a PNP or NPN; guessing the code automatically sets it up when selecting BL?
How do I setup a BLtouch when the sensor is not adjustable up or down? When it's deployed I'm guessing it's going to hit z endstop before the extruder hits. Then I'll retract it to drop the extruder with baby steps to calibrate z offset. I'm trying to set up with my TMC2208. Does z safe homing relate to the 2208 endstop sensing. I'm close, but need some confidence on not crashing head.
1. BL offset setup?
That's the measurement from the nozzle to the sensor.
2. TMC2208 endstop sensing?
No, but 2209's have it.
3. So my BL is now my z endstop?
It can be, or you can do both. Most times yes.
4. Is a BL considered a PNP or NPN; guessing the code automatically sets it up when selecting BL?
How do I setup a BLtouch when the sensor is not adjustable up or down? When it's deployed I'm guessing it's going to hit z endstop before the extruder hits. Then I'll retract it to drop the extruder with baby steps to calibrate z offset. I'm trying to set up with my TMC2208. Does z safe homing relate to the 2208 endstop sensing. I'm close, but need some confidence on not crashing head.
I am not sure, but I would call it an NPN, it will alert you if it is not set correctly. To setup the height there is some guess work involved, the bltouch doc trys to give you a guide for where to place it. The sensor should tap the bed before it hits the endstop. Correct, it will be up when babystepping. No z safe safe homing just lets you home in another location besides the corner of the bed.
TMC2208 dont support sensorless endstops, you'll need 2209s
For BLTouch v3.1, do I need Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING and Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING set to false or true?
Thanks in advance.
I think this was changed at some point, but I think the new ones need to be set to true.
Thank you.
hi chris, i have a delta printer when i installed my metal sensor and my bed is wham bam i do auto delta calibration 32 but i get a prompt to deploy the probe what did i miss in marlin ?
There should be a setting in there for fixed probe. That will get your around this.
Merry Christmas! Great Video 👍
Thanks Merry Christmas!
Hi Chris! Thank you for the vid, it is really clear! However I have an issue with my Anet, where I just installed the BLTouch and the latest marlin firmware. I set the probe up, as in your video, but when I start printing (after G28 and G29 and after ZO setup) I don't know why but the nozzle of my e3d dives into the bed. It makes a side of the object quite nice, while when it moves to the right side of the object, the Z moves down and the nozzle is almost carving my bed. I can see the lines the nozzle makes on the bed. It is super weird, because it starts fine, with the right first layer height but then the Z goes down. It seems that the machine is trying to leveling the bed, but in the wrong direction. It should lift the Z on the right side of the bed, because it is a bit higher than the left side. I tried to set the babystepping movement to true, but nothing changed. Do you have any clue on how to solve this problem? Many thanks again for the guide and the help!
Hello, what does the level map look like after the G29? You should be able to see it in pronterface or a terminal after the G29 runs. In your M503 output, is you Z offset correct? Check the M851 line.
@@ChrisRiley Hi! The map is quite nice actually, no value higher than 0.5. I also went back to the bug fix 2.x, which is the one I have on my CreatBot w/BLTouch and that works like a charm. Also with that firmware, the problem persists. I really don't have a clue
Ah right, the offset is correct when I check it on my printer. Could it be the whole printer to be unlevelled? I checked the x rods and they are fine, I really don't know what it could be honestly . It is frustrating because the printer is fine, but damn the nozzle really dives into the bed from left to right sides. Btw, the map values are all negatives for the right side of the bed
@@giovgon8667 It almost has to be some sort of firmware issue. There is a Marlin 2.0.3 out now, maybe upgrading to that will solve the problems.
Hi, I'm using a 5v inductive sensor and ubl together with a skr e3 mini v2.0 board. I needed to extend the cables of the sensor so I first used dupont connectors for that. Everything worked fine. Now the only change I made is to get rid of the dupont connectors, solder on the wires and finally put all my "x carriage" cables into a mesh sleeve...it was a pita and involed a lot of pulling on the cables.
After all that now if I do g29 p1 the sensor probes all reachable points, beeps but then moves a bit to the side and the nozzle just crashes into the bed....no idea why. I can't imagine I damaged a solder point or sth... and I also was careful to wire it corretly. I grab the 5v from the probe header on the board, gnd and signal from the z-endstop header. Any ideas what could be wrong? I really don't want to pull the probe cable out again of the mesh sleeving :(
Only thing I can think of is you aren't getting readings to the endstop/probe pin. So it fails probing and has no idea what to do with your offset. Check the wires again I guess.
@@ChrisRiley turns out I wired them wrong. But now another weird issue appeared: so, turning the printer on and homing moves the probe to the center but then moves it up a bit instead of down. Once I trigger the probe with sth magnetic so red light on the probe goes on and off, then auto home it homes as expected. Never had tht before. If I turn the printer off and on again, same issue: z moves up on auto home until I manually trigger the probe once
@@trohn_javolta8485 Sounds like the sensor is flaky. Might be some resistance in the system somewhere. Make sure all the grounds are good.
awesome tutorial thank you. Does the skr mini v1.2 still use the env.LPC1768 when uploading?
Thanks! No, they will use an SMT32 chip.
I'm having a lot of problems. Will a NPN NO (normally open) probe logic work? Does the normal Z end stop switch make the circuit OR break the circuit? My probe under a 5 volt power supply connection always has 5 volts on the signal wire. Touching the probe end with many different metal objects does not change the 5 volts on the signal wire. I think my 'NEW' probe is bad.
Sounds like the probe might be bad, you should see if go low or high as you trigger it.
merry christmas chris
Merry Christmas Paul!
Do you have an affiliate link to the probe you think is best to use?
It won't let me post the link here, I will add it to the description.
Hi Chris. Merry Christmas!!!
Just a quick question regarding the probe you're using. Is it compatible with anycubic ultrabase glass plate or I have to switch to a spring sheet to use this method.
Thank you in advance
Andreas
It will work with Spring metal sheet but you need a capacitive sensor for the glass ...
@@ikomu8907 thank you!
Thanks for the assist!
And Merry Christmas!
at 13:12 you cover Z Safe Homing. You lines say "...X_POINT" but the current version says "...X_POINT X_CENTER". do we just erase the X_CENTER?
They just changed this up, if you want to not home in the center just over type x center and y center with the location number value.
I just got an EZABL from TH3D. I'm new to 3D printing but I would presume that to be an inductive sensor like you spoke about in the video. Will this tutorial work for setting up that particular sensor?
Hey Richard, this should work for your sensor, but it might not be inductive. It could be capacitive. Either way, this video will work.
Chris thanks so much for your videos. You so precise and clear. I ha ve a cr10s and I am installing a sensor probe. I am having issues with homing. Do you think you could help me out some? I could record a video and show you. Thanks so much
Sure, just let me know what it's doing.
@@ChrisRiley thanks so much. I didnt want to bother you with silly questions, so I have been all this time testing, fixing and improving the firmware that I got from "THE FIRST LAYER" he talks a lot about cr10s and thats exactly what I got. I have installed many things like an ABL sensor and thats exactly what I am wondering about. so far so good, the firmware works great but I have noticed that everytime I run a print it never performs a bed leveling with the sensor. it just starts printing. only when I select the leveling sensor from the LCD menu it performs the task. but only if I select it but it doesnt do it alone before everytime.
@@ciscolara Remember to put a G29 in your start gcode in your slicer. Put it right after heating and g28
The monoprice Select mini has a example config in Marlin 2.x, it would be interesting to me to see a guide if you still have one.
Interesting, I will check that out.
Its under malyan instead of monoprice for the manufacturer. Not sure if that would throw you off but it did me for a couple minutes.
hi, Chris. According to this video, I've got two questions for you. First, Imagine there is a little hole in the bed and the probe detect it. When printing the first layer, will the nozzle go down to the lowerest
point in the hole(negetive Z comparing Z zero), with softend limitation turning on? Second, is the bed surface is not perfectly level, it is meaningless to just pick one point of referrece for z-offset calculation. Will it be accurate to calculate several points and then use the average value?
It's hard to explain in text, but ABL will only get you so far. If there was a hole, it will skew your results, but it will go into the negative to try and compensate. It will ignore the software endstop. THe offset is only used to set the distance from the probe range to the nozzle. The leveling will take care of it.
Hi Chris. When you install the probe at approx 1mm above the bed (nozzle just touching bed), is the probe already triggered at that point?
Yes, it should be about .5 mm lower than it needs to be at that point, that's where you want it.
Very nice and happy holidays.
You too James! Thanks.
Phil Hutton
Great video Chris. I have been trying to install Bigtreetech SKR 2 Rev B and TFT35 V3.0. When power is applied I get a beep and a message saying "Failed to enable Bed Leveling" it will "Auto Home" fine and will still start "Auto Leveling" but the motherboard restarts "reboots" every 3 minutes. This has been happing from the start. Do you think the board is bad? I think I have waited to late to return it. What is your thoughts?
Yeah, sounds like one or more of the pins have been grounded out. I would say the board is bad.
Hi Chris.. thanks for you well made videos to learner from. will the Creality 3D Mainboard - V2.0 be abel to use yours sensor on the Z-endstop ? Grettings from Denmark
Thanks for watching! I think we can get it working on the Z min endstop, but you will have to power it from somewhere else.
@@ChrisRiley hi . fount that i can use D11 pin for the 5v power. so will order a sensor an see if i get lucky.
Any chance you could do one on UBL? The one I have is 24v and seems to work...just not the UBL part. I have been trying to get it set up and it only wants to probe in one spot. The board is the SKR 1.4 Turbo, which I installed using your video.
I will be doing another UBL video to follow up. Stay tuned.
Happy New Years Chris. Love your videos. I have an unusual board on my Hypercube 3d printer. I'm using the MKS-Robin v2.3 with the TFT screen v1.1 and I don't seem to be able to configure Marlin 2.0 to run on my board. It is has the STM32F103ZE chip on it. It up loads fine, when I restart the board the touchscreen says "completed", the hot end cooling fan comes on for a second and then the board goes into protection mode and has a blinking blue led by the reset button. I never get anything of Marlin to display on the touchscreen. Is there a better place to tap into your knowledge?
Hey Matt, I am not sure if that board/chipset is fully supported yet. What does MKS want you to run on it?
Thanks for getting back to me Chris. MKS has Marlin 2.0 as one of two firmwares, however, they don't support it well and it seems that the original Marlin 2.0 was to be compiled with Atom and an earlier version of PlatformIO and with updates and the fluid nature of Marlin the compatibility was lost, or may never had been there for the TFT v1.1. It seems the people that have been able to get it to work have TFT v2.0. There are a couple guys within the Marlin world that may be trying to get the version 1.1 TFT put into the main Marlin again. The fork version they are working with did get Marlin working on my board and screen, but touch buttons are not working yet.
I was hoping that perhaps you had a magic touch or connections within the Matrix. If not that is ok I just thought I'd try. Happy New Year!
@@mattdog01 LOL, sorry not for this one, we will have to wait for the Marlin gurus to figure this one out. Happy new year!
Hello, where are you find the Pinda sensor with only 3 wire ? I'm french so i don't understand everything but thnaks for this video who is very good !
www.aliexpress.com/item/32981810289.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.c74b2a54tXQ2Jv&algo_pvid=45fcb2a7-e2a2-42ab-b9c0-f2c43e603bba&algo_expid=45fcb2a7-e2a2-42ab-b9c0-f2c43e603bba-0&btsid=2b70298c-2556-4ac9-9145-cbc144dc78d7&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0%252Csearchweb201602_5%252Csearchweb201603_53&aff_request_id=1e517e3502fa4ad1befbb89f16a93e33-1581798970112-06412-3aaivUyC&aff_platform=link-c-tool&cpt=1581798970112&sk=3aaivUyC&aff_trace_key=1e517e3502fa4ad1befbb89f16a93e33-1581798970112-06412-3aaivUyC&terminal_id=204844ecaaaf4bb6b464bdc6f3d3ae24
I just bought an anet a8+ 3d printer,
it has a filament runout sensor installed and an auto bed leveling without probe (manual moving z-direction at 16 points on the bed). I want to upgrade my auto bed leveling with bl touch or else and probe (auto z-direction move to 16 points in bed)
in my upgrade plan, how to edit the firmware?
do I have to back up the firmware setting 1st then add a new setting?
I'm a total newbie
Unfortunately, you can't do a backup, so you just have to jump in and fight it until it's correct. The best you can do is run a M503 and pull some of the printer data then use that to update a vanilla version of Marlin.
@@ChrisRiley thanks for the explanation
Is it possible in Marlin to wire a standard Z endstop switch to the Z-MIN-ENDSTOP port and an inductive probe to the Z-MAX-ENDSTOP port, and then have the firmware use the endstop switch to home the Z axis, but use the inductive probe to level the bed? In this case the endstop switch fires when the nozzle just touches the bed, and the inductive probe will fire at some point above the level of the probe (which is the Z probe offset value). I'd like to add the inductive probe, but keep the z endstop.
Yes, you can do this, you would use this feature #define Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN 32 instead of this one #define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN then just use your max endstop pin from your pins file.
In my case Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_PIN works also fine.
Hey chris have you ON the software endstop after bed levelling or we have to keep software endstop off?
Yes, I leave it on to be safe. It will be back on after reboot.
I'm having an issue. When I choose to export to compiled binary I get an error. I have the BLtouch kid that comes with the burner and the progisp program. It only works when I flash Hex files
This is usually some sort of driver conflict. You might check in device manager and see what it calls the board.
Thank you for this gr8 tutorial !! unfortunately after following all steps (few times..) , it seems that after G29 is executed, the nozzle stays 5mm above the bed and when I start a print it stays there.
LCD is indicating Z:5 but there is no way to lower it from the software or GCode. Any idea why this is happening ?
That sounds like something in the slicer, it should send the nozzle to the first layer height when the print starts.
Chris I'm still getting an error with my BLTOUCH On my Ender 3 Pro with SKR Mini e3 v1.2 Below is the G29, For some reason it Goes to Z10 but does not lower when probing.
G29 X41.00 Y10.00 Z10.00
Machine Type: Cartesian
Probe: BLTOUCH
Probe Offset X-41.00 Y-10.00 Z0.80 (Left-Front & Above Nozzle)
Auto Bed Leveling: BILINEAR (disabled)
>>> do_blocking_move_to X41.00 Y10.00 Z10.00
> X41.00 Y10.00 Z10.00
> Probe::probe_at_point X41.00 Y10.00 Z10.00
...(0.00, 0.00, raise, 0, probe_relative)
current_position= X41.00 Y10.00 Z10.00 :
>>> do_blocking_move_to X41.00 Y10.00 Z10.00
> X41.00 Y10.00 Z10.00
> do_blocking_move_to X41.00 Y10.00 Z10.00
> X41.00 Y10.00 Z10.00
That's really strange, it acts like it's in error state and tries to recover. I am wondering if the sensor it's self needs some adjustment. You can adjust the setscrew to raise and lower the pin position. Not sure it will help but you can give it a try.
Hey Cris, love your work! is there any way to use a negative value for min probe edge?
Thanks! I think your only option is to set your minimum bed size in the negative.
@@ChrisRiley: I figured it out!
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_LEFT MIN_PROBE_EDGE
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_RIGHT 15
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_FRONT 15
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_BACK 15
and
#define X_MIN_POS -35
#define Y_MIN_POS 0
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
is what I needed. Thanks so much for your guides!!
Great Video ! Wondering if it is possible to install the New Pinda Sensor with the Temp Sensor/Compensation system to skr 1.3? Merry Christmas
Merry Christmas, I don't know if it is there yet in Marlin. I will have to look through the docs a bit and see.
@@ChrisRiley found this if you want to have a look : github.com/GibsDev/Marlin/tree/pinda2/Marlin
In the SKR 1.4 (non turbo) am I enabling pulldowns/pullups (or touching any of that) while using Bltouch 3.1 as my Z sensor, prob going to use sensorless homing as well with the TMC2209 in UART mode. Other thought I had was, install a Z switch, in case the BLtouch fails and wants to crash into the center of the Earth?
You can setup both, but you will have to move the default bltouch probe pins to something other than Z min endstop pins.
@@ChrisRiley yeah I got them in their servos designated homes on the board, which I think is what I need? I've read conflicting reports of needing to clip/unsolder and not needing to clip that diag pin under those TMC 2209s.
@@miremaker You only need to clip them if you want to use the other ports on the board. EN0 EN1 power detect ect.
Hey Chris your videos are great!, So I'm trying to setup BL touch with my SKR_1.4 Turbo, with 2209 drivers, stelthshop and stallgard are enabled, when # define Z_SAFE_HOMING is turned on with default setting and If i upload that and use G28 if the nozzle is already over the center of the bed it tries to move to the center of the bed again before zeroing out so it thinks when its over the bed or wherever it is, that its 0 that it starts from, sorry it's hard to explain what the printer is doing, basically exceeding its limits and crashing in the opposite direction of home. because it is trying to safe home why is that?
So it should always be doing Z last. The only thing I can think of it stallgaurd is getting triggered. I would turn off sensorless homing and try again, see if that lets it home normally.
You missed PNP and NPN difference, Chris.
Also - is SKR 1.3 5V compliant board ?
It's in there somewhere, or at least how to tell. I am not sure about compliant, but the 5v sensors seem to work.
I've gotten this working great on older versions of marlin on 8 bit boards, but am not having the same luck with my SKR 1.3 (running Marlin 2.0).
It compiles and uploads fine, but M119 always returns 'open', even if I hold a tool under the probe (triggering it). I have it wired to my Z- endstop, and I've set this up in my firmware.
Any ideas on what's going wrong/where I should start looking?
On a 1.3, make sure your Z diag jumper is off.
@@ChrisRiley I had to de-solder a pullup resistor, that did the trick. Thanks!
So what does ENABLE_LEVELING_FADE_HEIGHT do if height is never set? is it just ignored?
Yes, that should be how it works.
11:17 I tried changing mine to Grid_max_points_x 5 which gives me the 5x5 probed grid when I manually tell the printer to auto level. but now when it prints, once it gets to the g29 command my printer goes to the corner like it's going to probe but instead just pauses then continues on with the print. I have it enabled in the firmware to reload the mesh after G28 and it gave me a great first layer so I believe it did in fact load the mesh. The G29 it right after the G28 am i missing something in the start G-Code?
Most of the time when you see that in Marlin the probe has throw an error. If you can't figure it out, you can turn on debugging and it will throw the information in a terminal window for you.
* Enable detailed logging of G28, G29, M48, etc.
* Turn on with the command 'M111 S32'.
* NOTE: Requires a lot of PROGMEM!
*/
//#define DEBUG_LEVELING_FEATURE
@@ChrisRiley Thanks for the help Chris! I managed to fix the problem by just changing #define Z_PROBE_LOW_POINT from -2 > -7 worst case if the probe fails my bed will ram into the nozzle for a few seconds. -2 wasn't enough for my -3.825 z offset.
But of course, fix one problem and another arises. When the print starts the Z moves to 6mm and prints in mid air. changing the Z offset does nothing, setting it to 10 or -10 offset doesn't matter it still goes to 6mm for the print :/
would this all work the same if using the EZABL? it just connects to the Zstop and separate power
Yes, all the same, I will get to your email shortly.
First of all, thank you for such a study. I did the application but I have a problem. Since it tries to go to the specified points very fast, it gives motor step error. What can I do because it wasn't slow. I tried to reduce the speed.
So you slowed it down, but it didn't help? You can try to increase the motor current.
I have a problem. I set the correct probe to nozzle offset, but the printer does not calculate that in the equation. The min probe edge is taken into the ewuation. what am i doing wrong?
#define X_NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET -4 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]
#define Y_NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET -74 // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]
#define Z_NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET 0 // Z offset: -below +above [the nozzle]
What is it doing, how do you know it's not taking it into account? It never hurts to update eeprom when things like this happen. Run a M502 and M500.
It tries to probe 74mm in front of the edge of the hotbed, and then it crashes.
The nozzle is where the probe should be.
I will try to set it with M851, and it did the trick. 😁
@@3D_printer_guy NICE!
Hi Chris. I’m having an issue where I was able to change the Z-probe offset on the User Interface only one time. I can no longer change it. I’m not sure If I accidentally changed a setting that locked it or if it is just a bug. Do you happen to know of anyway to fix this? I believe I am using Marlin 2.0.3
It might just be stuck in eeprom, run a M502 then M500 and try again.
Hi nice video, but I have a problen I set the noozle to probe offset -30,0,0 but when I run G29 the probe goes to far from the bed to the left and the noozle is the only thing above the bed and the probe can not sense anything, what am I doing wrong chris? please
Is your probe on the left of your nozzle?
Hi Chris how would this compare to an Ender 3 with an SKR V1.3 Mother board
The printer you mean??? They are about the same really only log has ABL.
Yes please do a Marine 2.0 complete walk through thx
I did a two part series on the SKR 1.4 board, it's pretty complete.
What kills me is the LCD displays 0.000 resolution, but M851 only reports 0.00 accuracy. I'm never sure in terminal if I had a - 1.125 or - 1.130 that resulted in a response of - 1.13 unless I look at the LCD. It's not much granted, but still dumb that terminal doesn't show that last digit.
I hear ya, I am not exactly sure why, maybe a question we should take to Scott.
Hey Chris! What if i am using the Z min as endstop and my probe should it be on Z max?
Yes, I put it on Z max when using Z min.
the best videos.
Thanks Patrick!
Hey Chris!
Is there a way to use 2 sensors for auto bed leveling? If so please tell me.
Thanks
Currently with Marlin, no I don't think there is.
@@ChrisRiley Ah OK.
Thanks for the reply thow
First of all thanks for sharing, i made all the setting in the video, But for the 9-point measurement, it measures 6 points and goes on to print. (I use Skr v1.3 card, MK2 heatbed (4mm glass on), 5V 18mm NPN Prop)
Do you have any suggestions for a solution?
Hmmmm, It just does 6? The points are still set to 3 correct?
@@ChrisRiley yes, i am sure, i set it x 3 and y 3
@@trdarkwolf Sounds like that might be a firmware bug.
@@ChrisRiley I think so, thanks for comments Chris.
thanks a lot for the video, does this method works with Atmega2560 board? if yes, please tell me how to find the environment field.
Yes, it works, use mega2560.
@@ChrisRiley how to find mega2560 in pltformio?
@@rahimelhajdk Alien icon > In project tasks, it's the first env. If you can't find it make sure you have the folder added that contains the marlin folder.
@@ChrisRiley thanks a lot but my problem is bigger than that..
I’ve just upgraded my CR20-Pro with micro Swiss DD and hotend, while I have a silent-board V2.2.1 and I have marlin 2.0 on it
After following the instructions, I got a problem with changing the configurations of firmware which is already installed on my printer, since I need to change the XY offsets.
The new values should be as following:
X= -10
Y= -26
The problem is that I’m unable to edit the firmware, I changed the values and flash it with xloader or cura, but nothing has been changed, someone told me that it’s because the .hex file is the same and I need to recompile/create a new .hex file.
Noting that I could edit and flash it with arduino IDE, there was a problem with compiling, and tried to flash the firmware successfully with Prusa slicer, but nothing has been changed.
And while I’m trying with visual studio code compiling, I’m getting a failure message.