Appreciate the time and effort you put in helping others. It was your earlier video regarding tuning the MMU2 that saved me. I was just about to take my MMU apart....with the use of a sledgehammer ... when i came across your video guide, and after following that, my MMU prints flawlessly !, i could no be happier, it prints 24/7 and just never stops :-) It opened up a whole new world of printing ! Keep up the great work !
*Touch Panel + MMU2S* In my SKR 1.4 Turbo board I hooked up the MMU2 to the Wifi connector and got it working, also using another independent GPIO for the MMU2 reset. I also hooked up a Touch panel to the connector that you in the video used for the MMU2. Both touchpanel and MMU2 were working. I had to modify the framework to configure the hardware to configure these pins as serial. By default they are not! In the mean time, my changes got merged in the framework, so now it is just a matter of setting a parameter to make this serial port accessible. You did a different change (but resulting in the same) by directly editing the platformio framework files to get the serial to work for the Wifi dongle. I was inspired by that, but instead of changing the framework, I did a generic change in the framework to make this change configurable. My original work and explanation is here: github.com/ruedli/pio-framework-arduino-lpc176x and discussion on the merge is here: github.com/p3p/pio-framework-arduino-lpc176x/pull/41 . *Likely it is obsoleted* by the current changes in the framework, so it needs more research to get the correct parameters to use. Anyone has gone this route to get BOTH MMU2 and touchpanel?
@@ChrisRiley I went deeper into the current platformIO framework, as during the merge my define names were changed, to reflect a more global naming standard. You shoud set the define LPC_PINCFG_UART3_P4_28, so include a line with *#define** LPC_PINCFG_UART3_P4_28* in Configuration.h This will initialize Serial3 to use the wifi port Rx/Tx so you can configure that serial as your port to use (instead of Serial2 of the TFT touchscreen.). The beauty is the current package for the LPC176x the framework now supports setting the correct pins for UART3. The LPC allows you to access the same UART3 through 3 different ports/gpio pinsets. Which one you need depends on the hardware design. BTT choose Port 4, pin 28/29. This was different from the (only) default that was supported throughout 2020. With the define you set this pin, as well as the functionbits for those pins. EDIT I also found the Marlin already sets LPC_PINCFG_UART3_P4_28 for certain chipsets, so possibly there is nothing to do: just use recent platformio and Marlin (with the HAL supporting Serial3 on BTT) ands _only_specify Serial3 for the MMU_Serial connection, and comment out, that it is NOT used as secondary port (as a wifi dongle would require). For the secondary port you specify Serial2, so you can hookup your TFT there. Wifi can then be placed on that TFT module.
Hi Chris, love your videos! Question, I have a sir mini e3 v3, just got it in, can I use that for the custom mmu2s build? Basically use it instead of the Prusa mmu2s board.
THA k you for the reply! So sorry for my late reply.. so the board you are using is the big tree tech one, right? I didn’t hear too much about it in the video.
I have a Prusa mk3s+ , and a mk2.5s. Both are not clones. Which mmu2 clone board do you recommend? Or would you say just go with the real mmu2 board as well?
Really great video Chris. You made me decide to get the mmu2s for my skr 1.4 already with your previous video, and this one came in with perfect timing! Marlin configuration is as always explained so well! I'm finding a lot more difficult the part on prusaslicer, mainly because some of the gcode on the "before printing" seem specific to prusa. It would be great if you could share a prusalicer profile that one can download for the combination skr1.4 + mmu2s.
Wonderful! It's like I asked you to make a video for the SKR v1.3 and a couple of weeks later you just deliver. I'm sure you were already working on this when I bothered you with questions, but I'd like to pretend that I made this happen. ;)
Chris, as always, tons of info in the vid. Looks like you got fantastic results. The MMU seemed to be hit or miss with past setups. Thinking i will put this on my list to try this year. Love the spool holders. Keep the vids coming.
Great Video, I have been binge watching all you MMU2 videos and they are a great help. I have a creality cr-10 v2 with a hemera installed and I am wanting to install the MMU2 onto my printer, would you know what pins on the board to use or is this a pipe dream to make it work on the factory board?
This really has taken the edge off my own build. I’ve looked into doing this since I first encountered the MMU and then saw it appear in the marlin firmware. Just awaiting the arrival of the MMU2. I noticed recently that Prusa now have a filament sensor on the MMU is this what your additional filament sensor is using but in a different location?
*Blobs and Gaps* Very nice recap! The tuning of the gap/blob in the tower is exactly tuned by the parameter "extra loading distance" in the "single extruder MM" setup. You left it untouched and instead tuned it directly in the firmware. Is this parameter of PrusaSlicer not supported in the Marlin firmware? I have the impression it only influences generated GCODE, is not transferred to the firmware and is therefore not hardware dependent. Is there a specific reason why you did not use this parameter for the BTT Marlin configuration? The actual value depends on the geometry of the extruder: distance between meltzone and extruder gear. Default Prusa is -25, for my BMG extruder I needed -6, otherwise huge gaps would occur. Changing the parameter directly influenced the gap/blobs in the waste tower for me.
I was tuning the feature instead of deferring from the stock PS profile. You can tune it either way and it should work, but the fact that the firmware tool swap sequence isn't controllable outside the firmware lead me to tune that first.
Hi Chris. Amazing video. It definitely helping me setup a MMU mod. I'm running a SKR 1.4 Turbo on a Bear Prusa MK3S. The MMU mod I'm looking at installing is the 12 colour mod. What I just ran into with marlin is that I can only run up to 8 extruders. Is there a way to go above that?
Thanks for this video. I was going to start asking about putting this mmu on a non prusa printer. We never installed it on my wifes printer so its time to try it.
Nice video! I've just built an mmu2 to use on my anycubic i3 mega with a hemera extruder. Followed a UA-cam video by GrubbyZebra and have use of the tft35 screen and mmu2 on the skr 1.4 turbo board. Just need to get it dialled in now. Thanks for all the tips in this video and the others you have made.
Hmm I have two Ender 3 Style Printers here with SKR mini E3 Boards. That should work right? Also this should work with the new MMU3 somehow right? I compiled my very own Marlin Firmware for them so this should be no problem to enable the MMU if it’s only controlled by Serial
At 22:50 +/- you talk about retracts for filament. I do not use any buffer or retract. I do not understand why I want the filament to retract. It seems to me that all the filament can be in one confusing pile to look at. But, as long as you do not touch it, it does not get more messy or problematic. Am I misunderstanding something?
If you have enough room you might be able to handle unload. A lot of time you will need to put it back on the spool to keep things from getting tangled.
@@Mike_Neukam Well. Not really. You can't use the official fw from prusa. BTT has made a fork, but it seems that several features do not work (yet). i.e. ptfe length calibration.
Nice video! Since you mentioned it’s open source and I have a BTT board with a tft port, would it be possible to apply this to any BTT board then not just LOG? I’m thinking this would be a ultimate upgrade to my Ender 3 Pro running on a SKR E3 v2, I also have a microswiss DD setup on it. Thoughts?
i've got the same setup and bought myself a MMU clone. The communications does work. I have currently the issue that the filament tip is to thick and therefore gets stuck in den bowden tube; thus hindering the changing process. I haven't researched that much into that issue so far, but i've gotta think that i can fix it by using better temps and maybe finetune the changing sequence. Feel free to message me if you have any more questions, suggestions, etc.
Have you found a way to implement a filament tip cutter? I was always against the mmu because I don’t think forming tips for different materials would be too reliable. Vs if there’s a small blade that could cut tips at 45deg, would make reloading easy
Not yet, but I am hoping that is the next Marlin update to this feature.
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The MMU2 MCU is ATmega32U4 and it is using 5V TTL including the UART ports and I believe all the SKR boards are using a 3.3V TTL. I was curious if that created a problem for anybody? Because I burned my Raspberry Pi 4B’s RX port while trying to debug the MMU2. Apparently Raspberry Pi 4B is not 5V tolerant.
Not sure what happened. I have never had a problem with Rpi or SKR boards being 5v tolerant.
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@@ChrisRiley apparently SKR Mini E3 v3 TFT port is not 5V tolerant, I mean, I didn’t burn the board completely (but possibly the RX2 pin again), but the LCD screen button get unresponsive if I directly connect the MMU2, but works fine if I pass the signal through a level shifter…
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@@ChrisRiley More on the 3.3V vs 5V thingy... Looking in to the STM32G0B1 datasheet, apparently, the RX pin on the TFT port is 5V tolerant (it can even tolerate upto 8V), but the TX port is not (it is just 4V tolerant). So don't put them in reverse, it will most probably burn that pin and then the MCU. For the last 2 weeks I've been tackling with the SKR to MMU2s communication issue. Here is what I found; Firstly, I connected an Arduino UNO to the SKR Mini E3 v3 boards TFT pins to mimic the MMU2s as it is easier to track what's going on. Becasue the Arduino UNO board is also 5V TTL I can't make it work properly without using a Level Shifter (although the VL and VH voltages are kind of around the same ballpark between SKR and MMU2s boards). And even with a level shifter if you don't get the Ground from each side (3.3V and 5V) respectively, it doesn't work. So the GND on the LV side of the Level Shifter should come from SKR board and the GND on the HV side should come from Arduino Uno. Then everything worked fine. So with this I proved that the TFT port is working fine and Marlin can communicate through that without any issues. Then I jumped on to the MMU2s side, and connected the Arduino UNO to MMU2s, without any hastle (no Level Shifters etc) this worked directly. Thus, I proved the MMU2s is also responding to my commands (X0, S1, S2, P0, T0 etc.)... I was thinking that I solved it... and I conneted the SKR board and MMU2s through the level shifter, it didn't work. I then decided to use the Arduino UNO as a gate keeper and passthrough all the messages from Marlin to MMU2s and back. This didn't work either. Now I'm stuck... But, I feel that I'm going to solve this soon...
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@@ChrisRiley I managed to run MMU2s, the problem was that the 1.0.6.372 version of MMU2s firmware is not returning with a "startok " to the "X0 " (MMU reset) command, so I intercepted the connection with an Arduino Mega (which is needed as it has 4 sets of hardware serial pins) and return the "startok " whenever Marlin requests a MMU reset, and then I pass all the commands between Marlin and MMU without changing them... And all is working now... I kind of doing my modifications to the ramming and filament load/unload sequences for my Ender 3 Pro with Sprite Extruder Pro now... Didn't have a change to do a multi-color print yet :)
He Chris Thanks for all the informations. I Changed my Ender 5 Plus to mmu2s MK3s. Works fine. with one last Problem i am fighting with. Every time the mmu sensor detects runout ( so Spool is Empty) the hole Printer and mmu2s resets and the print is broken. In Marlin its : do M600, but i cant figure out why its doing a reset. Have you ever had this problem too? And do you may know the reason/ Solution?
Will Prusa sell you an MMU without owning a Prusa printer, and can you buy spares and upgrades once bought? Prusa have a policy that they will not sell you spares unless you have a Prusa printer
You can buy the mmu2s without having a prusa printer but you cannot buy any parts without having a printer (PS you can buy spare mmu2s parts on aliexpress i did that
Filament runout sensor wiring info: 8:00 Filament runout firmware code info: 13:30 Saving this because I've yet to get my runout sensor working with Marlin.
Chris how did you get the mesh/honeycomb wheels for your gravity spool holders? I don’t have them. Sometimes the gravity spool holders when the filaments roll rolls down (gains too much speed) it tends to yank out filament out of the mmu2s causing loading errors.
This is the one I did, www.prusaprinters.org/prints/10370-gravity-spoolholder-for-mmu2s the MMU design should pinch the PTFE tube in the back just slightly to help with it rolling back, but I have seen that issue and there needs to be a bit of a tweak to help with this.
@@ChrisRiley yeah don’t see the file. Oh okay I’ll see if I can tweak a little. For now I just put a a little petg tube across the two frames that just prevents the roll from going all the way down. Thanks and great videos.
@@ChrisRiley Very happy you replied, definitely don’t get it often from other UA-camrs. I’ve actually been looking to make a diy version of the MMU ( mostly because it sounds fun ) and was planning to have this running on a custom CR-10, running marlin on a skr mini e3 v3. Don’t know if you would know the answer but, was wondering if this had to be ran on a direct drive extruder? My current setup is still a Bowden setup, I’ve used a direct drive before but because of the speed I was trying to get on my printer I was having issues with ringing and under extrusion. So was hoping to run a MMU2 with the Bowden setup.
Hi Chris. I am enjoying building an MMU2. goes well. I am using a Bigtreetech MMU2-DIP V1.0. But now when I connect everything I get "Update MMU Firmware! Printer stopped" in the display. I am now using the MKS Gen L V2.1 for testing. But later this week I get the BIGTREETECH SKR V1.3 on which the MMU2 standard will work on. Do you have an idea why I receive the message 'Update MMU Firmware! Printer stopped " Greetings a happy viewer
@@ChrisRileythanks for your response. I made contact with Bigtreetech and those sides that it was the firmware. they are in the process of releasing a new firmware. in the meantime I have received a custom firmware from them to continue. The only thing I run into now is that I am messing with a MKS GEN L V1.0. but it has a shortage of UART ports (at least if I want to keep it simple). I ordered a new test board, the SKR V1.3. I am more used to it because it is in all my printers.
I love the skr 1 4 board and the 1.3 was def. But I couldn't ever get it to work on my ender 5 pro. I hope you can show how to work this on the lerdge board. I will probably just build another printer for the skr 1.4. I love this video let's me know I can later put this on the skr.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks. I will keep sharing your videos. I will be starting a 3d company. I would like post your videos if possible on the site. :0) they are very professional.
Maybe the parameter in your printer profile called "extra loading distance" can help you. It surely helped me getting the gaps and blobs under control. see my comment on "gaps and blobs".
@@ChrisRiley thank you for your reply! So the retraction distance from the loading should be the same for the „load extra filament length“ in prusa slicer? 😄
I have a skr 1.4 with marlin 2.0.9.1 and i cant get it to work since the change of the way serial ports are handled . however i tested it with 2.0.7.2. and it works fine. do you have any tips or will there be an update video on how to use on newer versions of marlin?
Good question, I didn't know it broke it. They now have an individual baud rate setting, make sure they are all the same, I think they need to be 115200.
hi Chris is it possible to use a mmu2s on a cr10s pro v2 with a stock board if not what board would u recomend as i have 2 of these printers and 2 mmu2s and need them to work together thanks
Hi Dan, did you manage to make the MMU2+1S working with the SKR board on the printer? Whatever I try, seems like there no communication between the 2 boards :(
Hi and thanks for your vids that I am finally trying to follow (connecting a DIY MMU unit to a SKR board). But after viewing hundred if not thousand times this video, I am quite surprised that you are connecting the white wire (transmit from the MMU) to the transmit pin of the SKR board... I have always been told to swipe the RX & TX from one board to another. So I guess the white and green wires should be swapped on the SKR board (or maybe there's a change to perform in the HAL file). Anyway, on my side, swapping them or not does not make the MMU work in anycase.... :'(
I have to upgrade my printer. I might go full option, but damn... this shit gets expensive pretty fast. I would like Dual X Carriage, Dual MMU2, Dual Nova Hotend, ESC's and BLDC's for fast X and Y... damn...
I was wondering: Is it somehow possible to put the MMU2S into stealth mode via the terminal? The hissing from the steppers is driving me crazy, and I can't find anything online that is not on an original Prusa Mk3S (I run an SKR 1.4 LOG-like machine as you do).
@@ChrisRiley I've looked into the code in the the mmu2.cpp file in the MMU feature folder in marlin. It seems to me, that when the MMU runs in 12V mode, it automatically sets it to silent mode. I am going to activate 12V mode in marlin, hook up my MMU2 to 12V with a buck converter and hope to get it to run more quietly, hopefully. Let me know if your're interested in my findings, and I'll post them here.
@@ChrisRiley Alright, so I did install the buck converter and did the firmware thing. It really helped a lot! The steppers are now completely inaudible while idle, and that's all I can ask for. However, I still got some issues with my LCD not responding when the MMU has been active. I'm still trying to determine when exactly this issue occurs, so maybe I'll open up another bug report in the malrin respository :) Anyway, thank you a lot for your great content! Really helps me get the most out of my machine
Solved. Hello, thank you for this video. I get the MMU2S running with your firmware. Now I need to upgrade to Marlin 02010300. If I use your settings for the MMU2 #define MMU2_SERIAL_PORT 2, it does no longer compile and I get an error Marlin\src\HAL\LPC1768\../../inc/../HAL/LPC1768/inc/SanityCheck.h:156:6: error: #error "Serial port pins (2) conflict with E stepper pins!" . Do you have any advise? I can use port 3 but then the board does not communicate with the MMU2S. Thank you in advance. Solved 0 ist the Right Port.
hi, i followed your tutorial to the letter and i have 5 compilation errors: "#error" TEMP_SENSOR_1 is required with 2 or more HOTENDS. "can you help me? thanks
I've installed everything now and have set up the filament to reach the gears. I did use a filament sensor at the extruder. I don't get the marlin sequence where it's at the gears then go 30mm so it reaches the nozzle, then goes back 42mm. Wouldn't that just take it out of the gears again? If it needs to be primed shouldn't it stay at the nozzle, so like go in 30mm and stay there? Also great video, I've bought the MMU2 because of this vid. Keep up the good work 👍
Hi chris. This is a very good Video. I have a Problem with my Config. I have a MKS SGEN L on my printer and a btt MMU2-DIP on my mmu. I did it like your Video. But now if I Powered on my printer, the printer dosn't start. He stoped on the start screen. After a reset on display, I get a error: Update MMU Firmware! Printer stoped. I have the newest firmware on my mmu2-dip. I hope you can help me.
Hi Chris, when i do on my Marlin 2.0.7.2 (running fine on my printer) your tutorial, i try to compiling under Visual Studio Code, but unfortunetly obtaining an error : Marlin\src\feature\mmu2\mmu2.cpp: In static member function 'static void MMU2::init()': Marlin\src\feature\mmu2\mmu2.cpp:94:21: error: 'MMU2_SERIAL' was not declared in this scope; did you mean 'NUM_SERIAL'? Do you can help me :'(
Not that I know of, even if you did find some, it might cause issues communicating with the MMU2.
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As I see it is possible, and there is a Korean video demonstrating that, what the guy on the video is doing is to connect to the LCD screen ports (RX/TX instead of RX2/TX2), but then you loose the LCD screen functionality…
@@ChrisRiley still can not correctly configurate my e3 mini v1.2 (tft do not send any informations - checked on arduino). Can you configure marlin for me? I will be very very very very glad
@@ChrisRiley after doing some more research i found this video in which he edits the hal.h file and setup the i2c pin as serial 3. looks like that might work really well. i would be interested if you could test this and hear you opinion. As I'm in the process of building my MMU2 from scratch so I cant test it, yet. ua-cam.com/video/0MOC9AQhJ3k/v-deo.html
@@ChrisRiley bummer , I appreciate the work you do on this. It's very neat but I am lacking skills as of yet for this much. Have a good one bro. I look forward to the next video
@@jeffyboi8131 Here is the one for PLA, this should work for all of the materials other than temp settings. drive.google.com/file/d/1dKpk6de2wFLKnEjKQS8YhAhYk3D38xG8/view?usp=sharing
Danke! Chris, thank you for this great video. It helped me to setup my MMU2s on a SKR 1.4 very much. Im still in testing phase but it brought me to the point not to give up. Important was to find the right serial port and the settings for the IR-sensor on the chimney of the extruder. After having all the right settings, toolchange was executed correctly. I'm still fighting with the right amount of filament to fill the hotend after toolchange. This will be done next days. I made a video from my first steps with my MMU2, only in german ua-cam.com/video/sBX4PkH1KFg/v-deo.html and posted a link to yours. Thanks again and I'm happy to have such a source for finding support.
I don’t do 90% of the things you do, but i always get excited for a new video! Thanks!
Awesome! Thank you!
Absolutely love your focus on the more technical aspects of 3d printing! Learn a ton watching your videos. Thanks so much!
Awesome, thank you!
Appreciate the time and effort you put in helping others. It was your earlier video regarding tuning the MMU2 that saved me. I was just about to take my MMU apart....with the use of a sledgehammer ... when i came across your video guide, and after following that, my MMU prints flawlessly !, i could no be happier, it prints 24/7 and just never stops :-) It opened up a whole new world of printing ! Keep up the great work !
the same happened to me
Great to hear! Thank you
Excellent tutorial Chris! 👏 Thanks so much for your hard work to tweak it! 🙌
Thank you
*Touch Panel + MMU2S*
In my SKR 1.4 Turbo board I hooked up the MMU2 to the Wifi connector and got it working, also using another independent GPIO for the MMU2 reset. I also hooked up a Touch panel to the connector that you in the video used for the MMU2. Both touchpanel and MMU2 were working. I had to modify the framework to configure the hardware to configure these pins as serial. By default they are not! In the mean time, my changes got merged in the framework, so now it is just a matter of setting a parameter to make this serial port accessible. You did a different change (but resulting in the same) by directly editing the platformio framework files to get the serial to work for the Wifi dongle. I was inspired by that, but instead of changing the framework, I did a generic change in the framework to make this change configurable. My original work and explanation is here: github.com/ruedli/pio-framework-arduino-lpc176x and discussion on the merge is here: github.com/p3p/pio-framework-arduino-lpc176x/pull/41 . *Likely it is obsoleted* by the current changes in the framework, so it needs more research to get the correct parameters to use. Anyone has gone this route to get BOTH MMU2 and touchpanel?
Great info, thanks for posting this.
@@ChrisRiley I went deeper into the current platformIO framework, as during the merge my define names were changed, to reflect a more global naming standard. You shoud set the define LPC_PINCFG_UART3_P4_28, so include a line with *#define** LPC_PINCFG_UART3_P4_28* in Configuration.h This will initialize Serial3 to use the wifi port Rx/Tx so you can configure that serial as your port to use (instead of Serial2 of the TFT touchscreen.). The beauty is the current package for the LPC176x the framework now supports setting the correct pins for UART3. The LPC allows you to access the same UART3 through 3 different ports/gpio pinsets. Which one you need depends on the hardware design. BTT choose Port 4, pin 28/29. This was different from the (only) default that was supported throughout 2020. With the define you set this pin, as well as the functionbits for those pins.
EDIT I also found the Marlin already sets LPC_PINCFG_UART3_P4_28 for certain chipsets, so possibly there is nothing to do: just use recent platformio and Marlin (with the HAL supporting Serial3 on BTT) ands _only_specify Serial3 for the MMU_Serial connection, and comment out, that it is NOT used as secondary port (as a wifi dongle would require). For the secondary port you specify Serial2, so you can hookup your TFT there. Wifi can then be placed on that TFT module.
Oh my god, this is the most comprehensive video regarding the MMU2! Thank you so much!
Glad it was helpful!
thank you so much for your mmu2 vids, it helped me so much got my mmu2s mk3s working yesterday
Glad to help
Very good explanation and clear guide Thanks, yes we know that MMU2 experience (LOL)...stay safe Chris !!!
LOL, thanks Ron!
Hi Chris, love your videos! Question, I have a sir mini e3 v3, just got it in, can I use that for the custom mmu2s build? Basically use it instead of the Prusa mmu2s board.
You probably could, but I have no clue how. You would have to create custom firmware to assign all the pins correctly. It would be a lot of work.
THA k you for the reply! So sorry for my late reply.. so the board you are using is the big tree tech one, right? I didn’t hear too much about it in the video.
I have a Prusa mk3s+ , and a mk2.5s. Both are not clones. Which mmu2 clone board do you recommend? Or would you say just go with the real mmu2 board as well?
Really great video Chris. You made me decide to get the mmu2s for my skr 1.4 already with your previous video, and this one came in with perfect timing! Marlin configuration is as always explained so well! I'm finding a lot more difficult the part on prusaslicer, mainly because some of the gcode on the "before printing" seem specific to prusa. It would be great if you could share a prusalicer profile that one can download for the combination skr1.4 + mmu2s.
I actually use the same exact one for Prusa firmware and Marlin, only thing that is different is homing and leveling.
@@ChrisRiley thanks! I'll try again, maybe something else was not right!
Wonderful! It's like I asked you to make a video for the SKR v1.3 and a couple of weeks later you just deliver.
I'm sure you were already working on this when I bothered you with questions, but I'd like to pretend that I made this happen. ;)
You inspired me! 😉
Chris, as always, tons of info in the vid. Looks like you got fantastic results. The MMU seemed to be hit or miss with past setups. Thinking i will put this on my list to try this year. Love the spool holders. Keep the vids coming.
Let us know how it goes! Thanks
Great Video, I have been binge watching all you MMU2 videos and they are a great help.
I have a creality cr-10 v2 with a hemera installed and I am wanting to install the MMU2 onto my printer, would you know what pins on the board to use or is this a pipe dream to make it work on the factory board?
On a Creality board, I think you will be out of luck. Most of those don't have anyway to talk to the onboard serial bus.
@@ChrisRiley THanks for the info. I am going to install the bigtreetech 1.2 pro board with the 2209 drivers so I can try to get the MMU2S working.
This really has taken the edge off my own build. I’ve looked into doing this since I first encountered the MMU and then saw it appear in the marlin firmware. Just awaiting the arrival of the MMU2. I noticed recently that Prusa now have a filament sensor on the MMU is this what your additional filament sensor is using but in a different location?
It looks like they've changed it some, I'll have to check it out.
*Blobs and Gaps*
Very nice recap! The tuning of the gap/blob in the tower is exactly tuned by the parameter "extra loading distance" in the "single extruder MM" setup. You left it untouched and instead tuned it directly in the firmware. Is this parameter of PrusaSlicer not supported in the Marlin firmware? I have the impression it only influences generated GCODE, is not transferred to the firmware and is therefore not hardware dependent. Is there a specific reason why you did not use this parameter for the BTT Marlin configuration? The actual value depends on the geometry of the extruder: distance between meltzone and extruder gear. Default Prusa is -25, for my BMG extruder I needed -6, otherwise huge gaps would occur. Changing the parameter directly influenced the gap/blobs in the waste tower for me.
I was tuning the feature instead of deferring from the stock PS profile. You can tune it either way and it should work, but the fact that the firmware tool swap sequence isn't controllable outside the firmware lead me to tune that first.
Hi Chris. Amazing video. It definitely helping me setup a MMU mod. I'm running a SKR 1.4 Turbo on a Bear Prusa MK3S. The MMU mod I'm looking at installing is the 12 colour mod. What I just ran into with marlin is that I can only run up to 8 extruders. Is there a way to go above that?
Not that I know of, but they are working to add more to the code.
@@ChrisRiley OK perfect. Good to know, Ill keep a watch for updates. Thanks and keep up the awesome videos.
Thanks for this video. I was going to start asking about putting this mmu on a non prusa printer.
We never installed it on my wifes printer so its time to try it.
Alright! Good luck with your projects!
Great video, Chris, but that off-center bolt head on the extruder stepper is doing my head in. :)
lol, yeah, I really need to correct that.
Nice video! I've just built an mmu2 to use on my anycubic i3 mega with a hemera extruder. Followed a UA-cam video by GrubbyZebra and have use of the tft35 screen and mmu2 on the skr 1.4 turbo board. Just need to get it dialled in now. Thanks for all the tips in this video and the others you have made.
Very cool! Glad you are getting it working with other serial devices.
Hmm I have two Ender 3 Style Printers here with SKR mini E3 Boards. That should work right? Also this should work with the new MMU3 somehow right? I compiled my very own Marlin Firmware for them so this should be no problem to enable the MMU if it’s only controlled by Serial
MMU3 firmware isn't support through Marlin yet, but it will be very soon.
Its awesome this upgrade im going to test it with my board, can you make a video about de anycubic metal 3d printign or the metal desktop?
I would love to, maybe they will send me one.
Chris! You sir are a hero!
THANK YOU!
Thank you very much 🙏
Thanks!
At 22:50 +/- you talk about retracts for filament. I do not use any buffer or retract. I do not understand why I want the filament to retract. It seems to me that all the filament can be in one confusing pile to look at. But, as long as you do not touch it, it does not get more messy or problematic. Am I misunderstanding something?
If you have enough room you might be able to handle unload. A lot of time you will need to put it back on the spool to keep things from getting tangled.
Big Tree Tech also has a board to run the MMU2 it is the MMU2 Dip v1.0 and allows you to change stepper drivers
Yes, but it has its own issues...
@@nabbl2006 Im sure havnt had much time to mess with mine
@@nabbl2006 Can you elaborate? I haven't been able to find any info on it. Is it a drop in replacement for the prusa board?
@@Mike_Neukam Well. Not really. You can't use the official fw from prusa. BTT has made a fork, but it seems that several features do not work (yet). i.e. ptfe length calibration.
@@nabbl2006 thanks for the info
Nice video! Since you mentioned it’s open source and I have a BTT board with a tft port, would it be possible to apply this to any BTT board then not just LOG? I’m thinking this would be a ultimate upgrade to my Ender 3 Pro running on a SKR E3 v2, I also have a microswiss DD setup on it. Thoughts?
Yes, absolutely, as long as you have some rx tx ports and a filament sensor setup that will work, it can be done.
i've got the same setup and bought myself a MMU clone. The communications does work. I have currently the issue that the filament tip is to thick and therefore gets stuck in den bowden tube; thus hindering the changing process. I haven't researched that much into that issue so far, but i've gotta think that i can fix it by using better temps and maybe finetune the changing sequence. Feel free to message me if you have any more questions, suggestions, etc.
@@MrFixel112 that’s awesome! I’d like to experiment with MMU maybe later. Would it work with Klipper?
@@EatMoTacos Maybe. Take a lot on github. There was a dude that tried to implement in klipper. Not sure if he suceeded.
Have you found a way to implement a filament tip cutter? I was always against the mmu because I don’t think forming tips for different materials would be too reliable. Vs if there’s a small blade that could cut tips at 45deg, would make reloading easy
Not yet, but I am hoping that is the next Marlin update to this feature.
The MMU2 MCU is ATmega32U4 and it is using 5V TTL including the UART ports and I believe all the SKR boards are using a 3.3V TTL. I was curious if that created a problem for anybody? Because I burned my Raspberry Pi 4B’s RX port while trying to debug the MMU2. Apparently Raspberry Pi 4B is not 5V tolerant.
Not sure what happened. I have never had a problem with Rpi or SKR boards being 5v tolerant.
@@ChrisRiley apparently SKR Mini E3 v3 TFT port is not 5V tolerant, I mean, I didn’t burn the board completely (but possibly the RX2 pin again), but the LCD screen button get unresponsive if I directly connect the MMU2, but works fine if I pass the signal through a level shifter…
@@ChrisRiley More on the 3.3V vs 5V thingy... Looking in to the STM32G0B1 datasheet, apparently, the RX pin on the TFT port is 5V tolerant (it can even tolerate upto 8V), but the TX port is not (it is just 4V tolerant). So don't put them in reverse, it will most probably burn that pin and then the MCU.
For the last 2 weeks I've been tackling with the SKR to MMU2s communication issue.
Here is what I found;
Firstly, I connected an Arduino UNO to the SKR Mini E3 v3 boards TFT pins to mimic the MMU2s as it is easier to track what's going on. Becasue the Arduino UNO board is also 5V TTL I can't make it work properly without using a Level Shifter (although the VL and VH voltages are kind of around the same ballpark between SKR and MMU2s boards). And even with a level shifter if you don't get the Ground from each side (3.3V and 5V) respectively, it doesn't work. So the GND on the LV side of the Level Shifter should come from SKR board and the GND on the HV side should come from Arduino Uno. Then everything worked fine. So with this I proved that the TFT port is working fine and Marlin can communicate through that without any issues.
Then I jumped on to the MMU2s side, and connected the Arduino UNO to MMU2s, without any hastle (no Level Shifters etc) this worked directly. Thus, I proved the MMU2s is also responding to my commands (X0, S1, S2, P0, T0 etc.)...
I was thinking that I solved it... and I conneted the SKR board and MMU2s through the level shifter, it didn't work. I then decided to use the Arduino UNO as a gate keeper and passthrough all the messages from Marlin to MMU2s and back. This didn't work either.
Now I'm stuck... But, I feel that I'm going to solve this soon...
@@ChrisRiley I managed to run MMU2s, the problem was that the 1.0.6.372 version of MMU2s firmware is not returning with a "startok
" to the "X0
" (MMU reset) command, so I intercepted the connection with an Arduino Mega (which is needed as it has 4 sets of hardware serial pins) and return the "startok
" whenever Marlin requests a MMU reset, and then I pass all the commands between Marlin and MMU without changing them... And all is working now... I kind of doing my modifications to the ramming and filament load/unload sequences for my Ender 3 Pro with Sprite Extruder Pro now... Didn't have a change to do a multi-color print yet :)
He Chris Thanks for all the informations. I Changed my Ender 5 Plus to mmu2s MK3s. Works fine. with one last Problem i am fighting with. Every time the mmu sensor detects runout ( so Spool is Empty) the hole Printer and mmu2s resets and the print is broken. In Marlin its : do M600, but i cant figure out why its doing a reset. Have you ever had this problem too? And do you may know the reason/ Solution?
Hmmm...that's a strange one, I have never seen that. Try to un-hook the reset pin to the MMU2, see if that makes it go away.
Will Prusa sell you an MMU without owning a Prusa printer, and can you buy spares and upgrades once bought?
Prusa have a policy that they will not sell you spares unless you have a Prusa printer
You can buy the mmu2s without having a prusa printer but you cannot buy any parts without having a printer (PS you can buy spare mmu2s parts on aliexpress i did that
Thanks @WJS Bruwer yes, you can buy the MMU2, but no printer spares.
Filament runout sensor wiring info: 8:00
Filament runout firmware code info: 13:30
Saving this because I've yet to get my runout sensor working with Marlin.
👍
Chris how did you get the mesh/honeycomb wheels for your gravity spool holders? I don’t have them. Sometimes the gravity spool holders when the filaments roll rolls down (gains too much speed) it tends to yank out filament out of the mmu2s causing loading errors.
This is the one I did, www.prusaprinters.org/prints/10370-gravity-spoolholder-for-mmu2s the MMU design should pinch the PTFE tube in the back just slightly to help with it rolling back, but I have seen that issue and there needs to be a bit of a tweak to help with this.
@@ChrisRiley yeah don’t see the file. Oh okay I’ll see if I can tweak a little. For now I just put a a little petg tube across the two frames that just prevents the roll from going all the way down. Thanks and great videos.
Hey quick Question, will using octoprint work with this, will the serial port use conflict?
On the older SKR boards it will conflict. The newer ones have separate serials so you can divide them up.
@@ChrisRiley Very happy you replied, definitely don’t get it often from other UA-camrs. I’ve actually been looking to make a diy version of the MMU ( mostly because it sounds fun ) and was planning to have this running on a custom CR-10, running marlin on a skr mini e3 v3.
Don’t know if you would know the answer but, was wondering if this had to be ran on a direct drive extruder? My current setup is still a Bowden setup, I’ve used a direct drive before but because of the speed I was trying to get on my printer I was having issues with ringing and under extrusion. So was hoping to run a MMU2 with the Bowden setup.
Have you seen the BTT002? I ordered one and I'm wondering if it will have enough pins for my tft43 and the mmu2s on my custom bear build.
Just a quick look at it, I think it's going to be in the same boat with a shared serial. You would probably have to pick on or the other.
@@ChrisRiley excellent videos man! Looking forward to my build. Thanks for replying!
Hi Chris! After you tested both the MMU2S and the Palette 2s which one would you recommend? I want to use it with my Prusa MK3S+ . Thank you
If you have a Prusa the MMU2 is the way to go.
@@ChrisRiley That's what i went for! Thank you
Hi Chris.
I am enjoying building an MMU2. goes well. I am using a Bigtreetech MMU2-DIP V1.0. But now when I connect everything I get "Update MMU Firmware! Printer stopped" in the display.
I am now using the MKS Gen L V2.1 for testing. But later this week I get the BIGTREETECH SKR V1.3 on which the MMU2 standard will work on.
Do you have an idea why I receive the message 'Update MMU Firmware! Printer stopped "
Greetings a happy viewer
Hmmm, I am not sure what it is talking about. Maybe they intend for you to use PRusa Slicer to falsh the newest MMU2 firmware from PRUSA.
@@ChrisRileythanks for your response.
I made contact with Bigtreetech and those sides that it was the firmware. they are in the process of releasing a new firmware. in the meantime I have received a custom firmware from them to continue.
The only thing I run into now is that I am messing with a MKS GEN L V1.0. but it has a shortage of UART ports (at least if I want to keep it simple). I ordered a new test board, the SKR V1.3. I am more used to it because it is in all my printers.
I love the skr 1 4 board and the 1.3 was def. But I couldn't ever get it to work on my ender 5 pro. I hope you can show how to work this on the lerdge board. I will probably just build another printer for the skr 1.4. I love this video let's me know I can later put this on the skr.
Not sure on the Lerdge, I will have to see if I can get some pinout info on it.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks. I will keep sharing your videos. I will be starting a 3d company. I would like post your videos if possible on the site. :0) they are very professional.
why do you have to retract the filament in the load sequence? 🧐. I‘m struggling with a similar setup and I don’t get how long the retract should be...
Maybe the parameter in your printer profile called "extra loading distance" can help you. It surely helped me getting the gaps and blobs under control. see my comment on "gaps and blobs".
The idea is to warm the tip, shape it with the bit of cooling before the extrusion starts. It will be different for every setup.
@@ChrisRiley thank you for your reply! So the retraction distance from the loading should be the same for the „load extra filament length“ in prusa slicer? 😄
I have a skr 1.4 with marlin 2.0.9.1 and i cant get it to work since the change of the way serial ports are handled . however i tested it with 2.0.7.2. and it works fine. do you have any tips or will there be an update video on how to use on newer versions of marlin?
Good question, I didn't know it broke it. They now have an individual baud rate setting, make sure they are all the same, I think they need to be 115200.
hi Chris is it possible to use a mmu2s on a cr10s pro v2 with a stock board if not what board would u recomend as i have 2 of these printers and 2 mmu2s and need them to work together thanks
The boards not the problem. It's a difficult hardware setup to get them to work.
Great Video ... I was working on the same project using another setup DIY MMU2S and MMU2+1S , but I upgrade Marlin 2.07 and to works better stock
Thanks for the info!
Hi Dan, did you manage to make the MMU2+1S working with the SKR board on the printer? Whatever I try, seems like there no communication between the 2 boards :(
@@MyDarkneo Yes, but follow Chris hookup to SKR Board and MMU2 and it seems to work better with the latest Marlin firmware
Hi and thanks for your vids that I am finally trying to follow (connecting a DIY MMU unit to a SKR board). But after viewing hundred if not thousand times this video, I am quite surprised that you are connecting the white wire (transmit from the MMU) to the transmit pin of the SKR board... I have always been told to swipe the RX & TX from one board to another. So I guess the white and green wires should be swapped on the SKR board (or maybe there's a change to perform in the HAL file). Anyway, on my side, swapping them or not does not make the MMU work in anycase.... :'(
It all depends on how the board is labeled, that can get confusing, most of the time you would expect to connect them flipped, TX-RX and RX-TX.
I have to upgrade my printer. I might go full option, but damn... this shit gets expensive pretty fast.
I would like Dual X Carriage, Dual MMU2, Dual Nova Hotend, ESC's and BLDC's for fast X and Y... damn...
I hear ya, it adds up.
Thanks for the vid Chris. Enjoy the content.
Thanks for watching!
Is there any way to add the Prusa MMU2s to a klipper controlled 3d-printer? If so, could you pleas make a new tutorial video? thx
There is a Klipper MMU2 out there, but I am not sure about adding the Prusa version, I will look around.
@@ChrisRiley THX
Is the slicer feature of the mmu2s supported in marlin?? Also this should work for the srk minis as they also have this TFT connection, right?
Yes, all the slicer option should work with options, yes it should work on the mini.
You are using 2.0.7.2. Will 2.0.6 be close enough to be somewhat easy to figure out or are there substantial changes between the 2?
Not sure when the MMU2 updates were made you can check the release notes on github.
Maybe someday a MMU, but I'm still trying to get one to work all of the time
Yeah, the MMU2 will really add to the frustration.
I was wondering:
Is it somehow possible to put the MMU2S into stealth mode via the terminal? The hissing from the steppers is driving me crazy, and I can't find anything online that is not on an original Prusa Mk3S (I run an SKR 1.4 LOG-like machine as you do).
That's a great question, I think you can do that through Prusa firmware, but in Marlin I don't think they have those commands yet.
@@ChrisRiley I've looked into the code in the the mmu2.cpp file in the MMU feature folder in marlin. It seems to me, that when the MMU runs in 12V mode, it automatically sets it to silent mode. I am going to activate 12V mode in marlin, hook up my MMU2 to 12V with a buck converter and hope to get it to run more quietly, hopefully. Let me know if your're interested in my findings, and I'll post them here.
@@lorlimann Always interested to learn, let us know what you find.
@@ChrisRiley Alright, so I did install the buck converter and did the firmware thing. It really helped a lot! The steppers are now completely inaudible while idle, and that's all I can ask for. However, I still got some issues with my LCD not responding when the MMU has been active. I'm still trying to determine when exactly this issue occurs, so maybe I'll open up another bug report in the malrin respository :)
Anyway, thank you a lot for your great content! Really helps me get the most out of my machine
Finallyy
Been waiting for this!!
I'm here to help. Thanks!
thanks Chris. is there a option to use the serial for the tft and the mmu2. a 3e serial port or so? (skr 1.3)
It's really hard to use all of them on the serial. I have never has any luck with more than 2 connections on the SKR boards.
@@ChrisRiley ok thanks for your anser. i will not do that than
👍👍👍
Thanks
Solved. Hello, thank you for this video. I get the MMU2S running with your firmware. Now I need to upgrade to Marlin 02010300. If I use your settings for the MMU2 #define MMU2_SERIAL_PORT 2, it does no longer compile and I get an error Marlin\src\HAL\LPC1768\../../inc/../HAL/LPC1768/inc/SanityCheck.h:156:6: error: #error "Serial port pins (2) conflict with E stepper pins!" . Do you have any advise? I can use port 3 but then the board does not communicate with the MMU2S. Thank you in advance. Solved 0 ist the Right Port.
Awesome, glad you found the fix!
hi, i followed your tutorial to the letter and i have 5 compilation errors: "#error" TEMP_SENSOR_1 is required with 2 or more HOTENDS. "can you help me? thanks
If you set the hotends to 5 and enable MMU2 this should go away.
Is it possible to make it work without the filament sensor setup at the extruder like in the first video or is it really unrecommended to do?
It can be done if you get the Marlin settings right, but it is very challenging.
I've installed everything now and have set up the filament to reach the gears. I did use a filament sensor at the extruder.
I don't get the marlin sequence where it's at the gears then go 30mm so it reaches the nozzle, then goes back 42mm. Wouldn't that just take it out of the gears again? If it needs to be primed shouldn't it stay at the nozzle, so like go in 30mm and stay there?
Also great video, I've bought the MMU2 because of this vid. Keep up the good work 👍
@@GiulianDeNicola That push forward, then back is an attempt to shape the filament via ramming, but I am not sure why it does it at the start.
Man this is intriguing for me.
👍🙂
Hi chris. This is a very good Video. I have a Problem with my Config. I have a MKS SGEN L on my printer and a btt MMU2-DIP on my mmu. I did it like your Video. But now if I Powered on my printer, the printer dosn't start. He stoped on the start screen. After a reset on display, I get a error: Update MMU Firmware! Printer stoped.
I have the newest firmware on my mmu2-dip.
I hope you can help me.
Hi chris. Now it works. Thanks
I'm glad you got it going. 🙂
@@michaelbode2482 i have the same problim, how do you fix it? i use 3 time 2209's
Thanks
Do you think this would work for an skr mini e3 v2
It has TFT pins, so it should work.
Hi Chris, when i do on my Marlin 2.0.7.2 (running fine on my printer) your tutorial, i try to compiling under Visual Studio Code, but unfortunetly obtaining an error : Marlin\src\feature\mmu2\mmu2.cpp: In static member function 'static void MMU2::init()':
Marlin\src\feature\mmu2\mmu2.cpp:94:21: error: 'MMU2_SERIAL' was not declared in this scope; did you mean 'NUM_SERIAL'?
Do you can help me :'(
It's going to be different for every board, it will be listed in you HAL file.
hi, the tft pins on my SKR mini E3 are already in use by my TFT35 touchscreen. can you use another port for the MMU2S? thank you
Not that I know of, even if you did find some, it might cause issues communicating with the MMU2.
As I see it is possible, and there is a Korean video demonstrating that, what the guy on the video is doing is to connect to the LCD screen ports (RX/TX instead of RX2/TX2), but then you loose the LCD screen functionality…
nice upgrade, thnks for shear
Thanks for watching!
LOG! Love that printer!!!
Yay! Thanks for watching
Which serial port should i set on e3 mini v1.2?
Serial 0 set to -1, serial 2, set to 2
@@ChrisRiley still can not correctly configurate my e3 mini v1.2 (tft do not send any informations - checked on arduino). Can you configure marlin for me? I will be very very very very glad
doing gods work my friend.
Wow, thanks!
I got the Original Prusa mk2.5s and the mmu2s and i'm almost bald!
I hear you man, it's super frustrating.
How do you connect both the mmu2 and a tft35 v3?
You can't successfully. You would have to have another serial interface to do it well.
@@ChrisRiley after doing some more research i found this video in which he edits the hal.h file and setup the i2c pin as serial 3. looks like that might work really well. i would be interested if you could test this and hear you opinion. As I'm in the process of building my MMU2 from scratch so I cant test it, yet. ua-cam.com/video/0MOC9AQhJ3k/v-deo.html
@@cpbpilot Very nice, I will have a look.
Would this work with a CoreXY???
As long as the extruder/filament sensor setup was correct, then it should.
How is the reliability now?
Still not great.
@@ChrisRiley bummer , I appreciate the work you do on this.
It's very neat but I am lacking skills as of yet for this much.
Have a good one bro.
I look forward to the next video
hey chris could you send me your slicing profiles for pla petg and ninjaflex for the hemera mostly pla and possibly the other 2.
For what printer?
@@ChrisRiley oh lol the hemera on the ender 3
respond when you can
@@jeffyboi8131 Here is the one for PLA, this should work for all of the materials other than temp settings. drive.google.com/file/d/1dKpk6de2wFLKnEjKQS8YhAhYk3D38xG8/view?usp=sharing
@@ChrisRiley THANK YOU SO MUCH
i see you verry like the gravity spool :D
I do!
Checkout MMU2+1S
Will do!
Danke! Chris, thank you for this great video. It helped me to setup my MMU2s on a SKR 1.4 very much. Im still in testing phase but it brought me to the point not to give up. Important was to find the right serial port and the settings for the IR-sensor on the chimney of the extruder. After having all the right settings, toolchange was executed correctly. I'm still fighting with the right amount of filament to fill the hotend after toolchange. This will be done next days. I made a video from my first steps with my MMU2, only in german ua-cam.com/video/sBX4PkH1KFg/v-deo.html and posted a link to yours. Thanks again and I'm happy to have such a source for finding support.
Thank you so much! I'm glad I could help
Btw, I also felt like the gravity spool holder should be a bit steeper, so I made a remix: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4740233
Cool, thanks!
Why marlin lol. KLIPPER!!!!
We will see if Klipper supports MMU in the future.