I have an Ender-3 with a SKR mini E3 v2.0, so in this case I can follow the 1st process you describe (14:10 - 16:40)? I have to disconnect also the z-endstop? Do you think that I can add g34 in cura slicer at the beginning of every printing? Yours video are always so helpful!!! Many many thanks...
@@mitsre Yes, you should be able to set this up. You will have to flash Marlin I am guessing. Leave you Z endstop connected. Yes, just add the G34 in your start gcode.
I know im asking the wrong place but does anybody know of a method to get back into an Instagram account? I stupidly lost the login password. I would love any tips you can give me
Very informative video, however I believe that the motors for the dual lead screw configurations that share a driver are actually wired in parallel and not series.
I agree. The breakout boards run them in parallel. It is possible to run them in series. I've done that when I needed more current but it is not commonly done.
I agree with @rogernettles6719, I think the splitter cable is connected in parallel. Also if the motors were in series you should increase the Voltage and not the current. Nevertheless, it is just a common confusion. Nice work @EdTannenbaum! Thanks for sharing your deep knowledge!
This video would have saved me many hours a month ago. When I activated Aouto align after upgrading to Re-arm together with ramps 1.4 and added another steperdriver. With a BL it works great. Continue with these videos.
I’m newbie in 3D,and I just bought makeblock mcreat printer.what’s your opinion about this machine!!can you make one review on makeblock mcreat printer!!?
Thank you, I literally need this info for a build I am doing. I was like I guess I will figure this out when I get there. Now I have a saved video to setup serial z with two endstops!
Great video. I was amazed when I saw z-tilt function on klipper for the first time, but I see that marlin has this as well. Another interesting Z design can be found on Voron switchwire where Z does not use leadscrew but is completely belted.
I have passed on this video when it was published and i said to my self eeh that's nice and forgot about it , just to revisit it now after completing a very difficult and complicated ender3 dual z liner rails dual lead screws custom second z plate cnc out of 3m aluminum (wow that's alot) ,just to find out it sags down one side after all of that 🙄 , and after 2 ,3 ,4 days scratching my head and thinking i sould find another purpose in life or find a new hoppy or even a girl friend just to find out that you did here simply and elegantly and it would save me like 50$ of extra hardware, chris all the brotherly love in the world to you my friend and thanks.
Wow this video was exactly what I needed to diagnose my printer's issue with the dual Z screws where the one side usually droops a bit. Ordering the pulleys and belt right now to keep them synced.
This video is gold. Perfect timing too. I just got my first dual z and been flashing this tronxy xy3 chitu board and firmware with marlin. this video is legitimately gold. I now have even more features from marlin over their trash firmware. Thank you.
As always, you deliver the correct information in a fun and pleasing manner. you would have made a great school teacher. It's crazy to me that you don't have more subscribers, ( Your channel reminds me of an old channel back in the days when the RepRap movement was a fairly new thing, called ZennmasterM sadly his channel never had a huge amount of subs even though he was externally knowledgable.) all info is always spot on and you are very noticeable with both Hardware and software, unlike most, which I like to call smoke and mirror channels. they talk a good talk but know nothing of what they are talking about. If it means anything I respect you and the fact that you talk about something you know and are passionate about.
best upgrade I ever did to my ender 3 was the dual z axis with independent z motors. It was a big project for a beginner, included relocating the main board, upgrading the mainboard, editing marlin, all kinds of stuff. but once I set my bed level, that was it, my z-offset and bedmesh was perfect every time.
Thank you so much for this. I like how you explain everything in a simple way that even I can understand. I have the Mega S and bought a Bltouch but didn't want to lose the 2 Z endstop to connect it. I ordered a SKR 1.4 Turbo and I'll use your setup. Thanks again
Some smart profs at my university warned me about the searies solution due to the motors inductivity, while mooving. They could affect each other in an uncontrolled way
Thanks Chris, I already done mine after the first live show you did this year when i asked, but you have made a few points that i will look into that will be handy. Thanks again :D
Hey Chris, Sorry to bug you again, I know I have been taking up quite a bit of your time, but you have been so much help. I installed a second z screw and stepper connected to the second z port on the btt skr e3 rrf with marlin still. I just enabled g34. I'm not sure what it is hitting at the top of its travel to stop it, it is too close to tell, either the top outer v roller is at the top of its travel, or, the lead screw nut is hitting the bearing block. either way, I am getting a variation of .2-.3 after performing the g34. would you suggest maybe making some type of hard stop attached to the 24x40 uprights that hits the actual 20x20 x extrusion? Or call that close enough? I like to have everything perfect, and after all I have done to it, I would assume I could get it perfect. I know I can correct it with tramming the bed, and running a mesh calibration. Am I being too critical? Thanks again!
That's what I would recommend something that you can confirm the gantry is all the way up and level. Maybe even a couple of washers on top of you Z nut as a test.
Hello! Awesome video!! Very clear and informative. Just a question about the ender 3 pro. Can you add a second z end stop switch to fix the drooping on the none lead screw side?
Thanks for the video tutorial, I appreciate your insight. I have an issue after sending the G34 command where after the gantry has been leveled side to side the nozzle comes down and crashes into the bed before returning to home. Any idea as to why? I probably should add that I am using the stock tri-gorilla board in my chiron running bugfix 2.1.x.
You bet! Hmmm, the only thing I can think of is the Z size thinks it's bigger than it actually is. So it has to come down further than it thinks. Try adjusting that setting.
Great Video, how can the breakout board splitter adapter be a series all I find is parallel and it makes sense to be parallel not series, curious to know!
Thanks Chris for a great video. I am currently installing a MKS Tinybee v1 to an Anycubic Mega p. Most of the wiring is done from the daughter boards/hubs. My question is I'd like to configure the dual Z motors as was with the Trigorilla Board. "2 z motors and 2 end stops. However the Tinybee has only one end stop z switch connection. I have all steppers fitted with TMC 2225 configured 2208 stand -alone. I have enabled E1 for the extra Z motor but not sure how to configure another pin for the extra end switch. I think I can use the touch probe signal wire to the end stop for the extra motor but not sure if I can configure in Marlin. Any help would be most appreciated. Thanks😎😎😎😎
Hey, yes, you can use the probe pins but you will have to move the wires around. MT_DET would be easier, if you're not using it as it is wired the same as the endstops. Check pinout: github.com/makerbase-mks/MKS-TinyBee/blob/main/hardware/MKS%20TinyBee%20V1.0_003/MKS%20TinyBee%20V1.0_003%20PIN.pdf You want to use pin 2 if using the probe/servo pin. Change this in configuration_adv.h //#define Z_MULTI_ENDSTOPS // Other Z axes have their own endstops #if ENABLED(Z_MULTI_ENDSTOPS) //#define Z2_STOP_PIN X_MAX_PIN // Z2 endstop pin override To this: #define Z_MULTI_ENDSTOPS // Other Z axes have their own endstops #if ENABLED(Z_MULTI_ENDSTOPS) #define Z2_STOP_PIN 2 // Z2 endstop pin override
Don't take this the wrong way but it feels you are speaking with a raised voice all the time, and that makes it energetic :) but just wondering if that is what you are doing i still enjoy your content :)
I have an Ender-3 with a SKR mini E3 v2.0, so in this case I can follow the 1st process you describe (14:10 - 16:40)? I have to disconnect also the z-endstop? Do you think that I can add g34 in cura slicer at the beginning of every printing? Yours video are always so helpful!!! Many many thanks...
Great video, I found useful tips in it. However, you said the 1-into-2 adapters (at 10:25) and the dual Z sockets on the SKR V1.4 (at 10:39) arrange the motors wired in series. According to the SKR schematic, they're actually wired in parallel, and I think most adapters are as well. That's why you might need to increase the current, because it's divided between the motors; if they were wired in series, the current would be identical in each.
Question about this connection, which may be address in the 1.3 segment, sry if it is. So I have the 1.4 (regular), when I connect my (2) Z motors to their ZAM and ZBM connections, will I/can I run the ZBM (I think that's going to be my 2nd added Z lead+motor) off of the E1 driver? I've got 1 more TMC2209 and was wondering if I need to put that in the 5th driver slot (which I think is E1). Then in Marlin, do I still want to uncomment Z2 when defining the driver type? No endstops on Z, I just use a bltouch.
@9:30 That module connects the motor in parallel. To connect in series would be to halve the voltage of both steppers, which isn't something you really want to do. FWIW I hear a ton of people using "series" and "parallel" incorrectly these days. Did the definition change or something LOL
Got the z stepper auto align working on my ender 5 (with second z) and my ender 5 plus. thanks for this, combined with visual bed level of octoprint the bed is now almost perfect flat.
So some of the TM drivers can sense when the head hits the bed, or the gantry hits the top by reading a motor stall? Which ones? I used to use two Z motor drivers on my printer to make the wiring easier, but now have them in series (3v motors on 12v supply!). I only have one extruder, so I do have a driver socket unused on my RAMPS. Upgrading two drivers wouldn't be that expensive to add Z calibration. I don't think my gantry droops much at power off (I should center the X axis on end of print, that would help), as my NEMA23 drivers have more "drag" with no power than NEMA17 (I'm using them because they were CHEAP surplus).
Love you and this video so much. This is just what I am looking for when building my printer. Love your videos because you explain everything i need to know. After other videos in yt I keep searching and searching for hours and hours but thats not the case woth you. Thanks again!!!
I know this is an older video, but I'm hoping you can help answer a question. I have the Creality 4.2.7 board, which has TMC2225 drivers. From what I've been told, the 4.2.7 does not support UART (unless I do an extensive mod to the board), and as such I was also told that I need to define the drivers in Marlin as "standalone". So because of that, can I still enable the z-axis leveling that you're showing in this video? If I can't use UART, then it's my understanding that the drivers current can't be software controlled, am I right? I may be way off as I'm still at the very beginning stages of learning about 3D printing. I have constant z-axis leveling issues (Ender 3 Pro with Sprite Extruder Pro), as the left side of the X-Axis gantry is heavier than the right, due to the larger mounting plate for where the Extruder stepper used to be mounted. Whenever I power down, the left side drops slightly. It holds up better when the power is on, but trying to level it manually every time is such a pain (lowering the gantry and using two equally sized blocks and rotating the lead screws independently to try and level it). Anyway, any help you can give would be amazing. Thank you
On that board it's going to be hard to get this working. To make it useful you would need 2 different Z drivers. You are correct, if the drivers are standalone you can't adjust the current.
Eggscellent video Chris. Answered many questions and learned of new features.. How do you use a z-probe while implementing the G34 command? I think that would be the ultimate configuration, no endstops to align. Thanks...
Great video. I wish I had watched it over the weekend before I had this issue. I was printing Friday night no problem. I woke up Saturday and started to print and I could not get a first layer to print. Finally I shut it down and manually recalibrated everything as if it came straight out of the box. My Z was a little out of whack and when I got it fixed everything seemed to work. My guess is one of the screws moved when it was powered down I have seen videos of some people running it to the top with the move z button on the screen and then running it a couple of times with the motors grinding. It seems to work but I wonder if that could be harmful? I used the credit card method.
What I got: - Small buildplate could use 1 Z-axis, also could one nema motor to drive 2 lead screws to mitigate the slope on the side with not lead screw. - even the config of 2 nema motors & 2 lead screw may suffer some droop, soln: using Timing belts to sync the 2 lead screws. - Dual z axis breakout board is used for the boards with the single port for z-axis - GANTRY_MECHANICAL_CALIBRATION Option to level z axes assuming rigid frame, moving gantry all the way up till it hits the frame (prusa has this option) -- GANTRY_MECHANICAL_Current: drawn current through calibration, usually half of run current -- GANTRY_MECHANICAL_feedrate: how fast it moves through calibration. - motors don't remain energized all the time, when it happens it may lose some steps >> DEFAULT_STEPPER_DEACTIVATE_TIME (false: energized all the time) -- for trinamic Config : HOLD_MULTIPLIER 0.3 it holds at (30%) of normally would be - Alternative to mechanical calibration is a software soln that uses 2 endstop (e.g. Anycubic Chiron) - best practice for dual motors that their current is as close as possible on both motors. - Z_STEPPER_ALIGN_XY : aligning or calibrating the Z-axis stepper motors with respect to the X and Y axes on a 3D printer - STARTUP_COMMANDS: anything you put in between these quotes will run at startup
Another great, informative and helpful video. I'm running my ender 3 with 2 z motors and screws but with a parallel splitter in the meantime, and I have everything ready to go dual driver with automatic alignment as you did on Log (I'll make my 2208s communicate, too). I was pushing it as it works as is, but now I have no reason not to do it ASAP. My only concern is the accuracy of my 3D touch - not that it has a big deviation, it's actually very accurate, but every single print (mainly the first that day and the second) I have to adjust my Z offset a lot (0.2-0.3mm). I think it's from the probe heating up with the first print over the heated bed but I might be wrong. Any ideas how to make it not do this? I remember your 3D vs BL touch test vid, that's when I bought the 3D.. Maybe you have experience with this issue? Thank you!
@@ChrisRiley I looked further into it today and it seems, that there was (and is?) an issue with the fade height being enabled... I played with it, so far I added M420 Z0 (disable fade height) before the bed leveling sequence. I also added the M420 Z{whatever} (enable fade height) into my start gcode after i retrieve the mesh info. So far, after messing around with short prints, i did not need to change my z offset. But I want to see it work after the probe being over the heated bed for longer periods. Maybe you can try so we can cross check? Thanks for your reply! :)
Hi Chris! I have one misunderstanding about Z auto align. What if the bed is not even like in my case? I use BL Touch and UBL with saved mesh in slot 1. How then the "Z auto align" function uses the bed as a reference when it not even? Is it the Z auto align respect the saved mesh for bed leveling when it align the Z? That is what I can't understand. And where the G34 command should be placed in start G code, before G29 or after? Or doesn't matter?
The 2 aren't tided together. The G34 is just a guess on how level you X is to your bed. You will then have to let UBL pick up the slack from there. I would G34 first.
Going by the title of this video I was hoping it would solve my problem but you didn't even get close. I installed an SKR1.4turbo with a TFT35 in my 6yr old Creality 10s which used to work just fine before this so called upgrade. Now I'm trying to set the calibration for the bed size and 'Z' height. All moves seem normal except for the 'Z'. When trying raise the extruder 'Z' movement it moves very slowly (like 1/4"/min) and the distance travelled per the LCD screen is like 200mm but it never moved 200mm, it might have moved 5mm?? I have no idea of how to correct this and can't find anything on YT addressing this exact issue. When we discuss 'Z' shouldn't the travel be part of the discussion?? I love you vids and hope you can help.
@@ChrisRiley Chris, bang on!! I finally figured out that the 'Z' setting here being at 4000 was too high. It's set to 400 and the 'Z' is working fine now. What was happening here is I was updating Marlin but my MB wasn't updating because I didn't realize we had to 'SAVE' the updated firmware to the EEPROM or all would be lost. Even though I've been 3D printing for 5yrs+, updating firmware was too complex to me. Now with Marlin, newer quieter drivers etc, I decided to take the plunge. Unfortunately, there's not one single video out there eg: "Operating your Printer" Installing FW Updates/Printing/G-Code. A video explaining how to update FW to any MB and what one MUST do to succeed with the update, including what EEPROM 'Reset' does or what 'LOAD' does etc. When and 'how' to use the USB cable to the MB, or when to use the TFT SD card reader, or USB port on the TFT. You have no idea how many videos I watched before finally hearing one guy say "don't forget to SAVE your upload or it'll be lost" and THAT very brief mention solved my upload issue and eventually being able to change my 'Z' speed. Please don't misinterpret me, your videos are so helpful and well produced but don't forget, some of us are NOT well versed in 3D print or Marlin terminology. Maybe you could do a series 'For Newbies' and an 'Advanced' series. Believe me I do alot of research prior to posting questions and I like trying to figure things out on my own but sometimes...... One more question. When you make changes using G-code (via Pronterface or directly from the TFT) shouldn't we also reflect those changes in Marlin? I've never heard mention of this and I wonder, if we do a change with g-code then won't that change be lost with the next Marlin update to the MB? Thanks for your patience with me and be safe!
How can I setup Z top gantry calibration in a CR10S if the left side I have a BMG extruder? I mean when it will go to the top, the extruder will collide with the bracket of the lead screw first, the right side will never collide to the top. Maybe I need to mount some sort of dummy object to match the same height as the right side?
Hi Chris, another great vid. Can you please help me with a minor printing problem? I am using Cura slicer and all of my prints have the same niggling problem. I usually print everything with a brim for bed adhesion but it takes quite a while before any filament starts to appear from the nozzle, strangely enough though it prints my purge line perfectly. I am sure this can be corrected in the Cura settings, but I don't know where to start! Any advice you can give me would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks Chris, I will have a look at my retraction settings, but unfortunately everything is on hold for now because my MB a BTT SKR 1.4 has packed in, I had a failed print yesterday because the thermal runaway protection kicked in and stopped the print. From then on, any attempt to pre-heat the bed causes Marlin to request a reset, the temp display will not rise above 8 degrees. I thought it must be a faulty bed thermistor, but after carrying out some tests with my multimeter on the thermistor and then the wiring, everything checked out OK, so I ordered a new MB which will arrive today. Hey-ho, the joys of 3D printing😢. I will let you know the outcome when I have fitted the new SKR 1.4, this may be of interest to other viewers of this post.
@@ChrisRiley The MB is fitted now and the printer is up and running again, I still need to have a look at those retraction settings but I am in the middle of a twenty hour print job at the moment so that will have to wait for now, thanks again for your help so far.
@@ChrisRiley Well I found the problem with retraction, it was a 4.5mm retraction in my Cura start gcode, all is working fine now, thanks for pointing me in the right direction 👌
I definitely learned something here today. My extended ender3 now has an almost perfectly square gantry thanks to your posting this tutorial. What are the chances you'll be explaining closed loop stepper motors and how to tune the driver PID any time soon?
Hi Chris. Nice video. I see you make clone for Prusa MK3 . What firmware you use? I try compile new Marlin 2.0.7.2 version for Einsy Rambo 1.2b , after flash I have problem with LCD and SD card . What Marlin you use in your clone ? thanks .
@@ChrisRiley Thanks. I have some problem , but solve it. In platformio.ini I have bad env setting .. from atmega2560 change to rambo . Your videa are super. Step by step is good for all not only for beginner .. best regards.
Hello there, i have a skr 1.3 and btt2209s and running newest marlin, i have everything working on the printer but when i run the z axis up one side goes faster than the other and its causing binding but ran perfectly before doing the g34 add...any clue why? tyvm for everything you do..
Hey Jon, so only thing I can think of is the Z2 settings in configuration_adv.h is set to a different step rate then the Z motor is. Try clearing eeprom as well. M502 then M500.
Love your videos and followed every step exactly to but I am getting the error "No E1 stepper available for E_DUAL_STEPPER_DRIVERS!" using an ender 3 with a bltouch and skr mini e3 v2
So what is better dual z or independent z this depends on your avalible hardware i guess... i did not check yet but dose the creality v4.2.7 board have provided for a dual z independent.. my kit only came with the extender plug.. i found no difference and i have had dual z since my prusa mendel 3ii
How to make best way dual z on cube coreXY? I have tronxy x5sa and when tune marlin on it, many times it cause me many holes into bed. I speculated to add 2 hw block, but it can be add to bottom or to top? If do it on top, so it prevent to do holes, but can t be possible to change hotend.
I saw many new corexy with dual z have balance on top. But when make hardware stop on top, have fixed level on nozzle. So if change shorter nozzle, must rebuild all printer. So i am not sure, how to properly solve it.
I got a problem I can't understand. My printer prints extra 3-4 mm for any print(10mm turns to about 14mm and 40mm turns to 44mm). There is no resistance to the gantry and the z rod is aligned. When measuring the z height manually using a caliper it is perfectly accurate so no need to change z steps. Changing the current doesn't change anything. It is impossible I am losing steps since it is making too many steps instead of less. I'm using a bltouch with a grid so alignment is also not a problem. Cr 10 with dual z on single driver. Skr 1.4 (marlin) with tmc2209 on 12v.
good tutorial about z motors. A curious question Chris.."-If I use two motors in series, do I have to double the current to the Z driver /motors or if I set the current for Z (in the software) to 1 A does both motors get 1A?
Thanks! In series the current will be the same and these motors are current driven, the down side would be voltage drop, which we don't have to worry about here. Parallel , the voltage is the same, the total current is the sum of the currents flowing through each component. To answer your question, they both get 1 amp.
It's a bit more complicated. If the motors are wired in series, then the current path is through a winding on the first motor and then a winding on the second motor, so those currents are equal to the current set by your software. If the motors are in parallel, then the there are two current paths, and the regulated current splits between them. So you would think that the series connection is better. However, in the series connection, each motor sees only half of the available voltage. Why would that matter if the driver is controlling current, and manages to achieve that current? Because the driver strategy is to apply full available voltage at the beginning of a step in order to raise the current as fast as possible to "overcome" the winding's inductance. It then uses high-frequency PWM to adjust the current to the set value. If only half the voltage is available, then the initial current ramp is only half as fast. So that decreases the rate at which torque builds at the beginning of the step, and ultimately reduces the maximum reliable stepping speed. (Another way of saying the same thing is that connecting the motors in series doubles the inductance that the driver is trying to drive with the same PSU voltage.) For that reason, if you want the two motors to achieve the same torque and speed, you should connect them in parallel and double the current setting, which may or may not be available from your driver. However, if you're adding a second Z motor to what was previously a single Z setup, then in your new setup each motor has only half the load compared to the single motor setup. (And that load is composed of two components: overcoming momentum to change the speed of the mechanism, and then ongoing overcoming of friction or raising against gravity). So, noting the half-load for each motor, you could connect in parallel and just let each motor get half the current, or in series and they get half the maximum voltage. In parallel you'll get the rapid initial current ramp and initial increase in torque, but followed by half of the ongoing torque (within that step). In series you'll get half the initial rate of increase of torque, followed by the full ongoing torque (again, per step, and compared to single motor). It's not clear which would be the better tradeoff.
Hi Chris I had a Marlin configuraton (some version 2.???) witch had a line in Configuration_adv.h that configures the number of z-axes. The line is: #define NUM_Z_STEPPER_DRIVERS 2 does specify 2 z-axes. In Marlin 2.1.1 the line is no longer in Configuration_adv.h. I don't understand what is changed and how the configuration for z-auto-align works. I always had the Z1 driver for the left Z-AXE & E1 driver for the right Z-AXE. So if i configured #define X_DRIVER_TYPE TMC2209 // For X #define Y_DRIVER_TYPE TMC2209 // For Y (Left & Right on one driver) #define Z_DRIVER_TYPE TMC2209 // For Z-Left #define E0_DRIVER_TYPE TMC2209 // For Extruder #define E1_DRIVER_TYPE TMC2209 // For Z-Right If i do this in Marlin 2.1.1 the TMC driver for E1 is not acivated, only the Z1 driver is active. You say that when you use the E1-driver then you must define Z2 in Confituration.h. Then the E1 driver is automaticaly used. What is the logic about that? What if i want to use E3 and leve E1 & E2 un-used? Maybe i want to use them for something esle? So what if you use 2 extruders? Could you make a video that does explane Z-auto-align works in Marlin in detail? Thank you
So I can put pre-print commands in my slicer, Octoprint AND firmware - which one would you recommend? I plan on buying only one printer, so different profiles for different printers are not an issue for me.
Did they remove the Mechanical_Gantry_Calibration from the latest Marlin 2.0.x ? I have checked multiple builds I have for a few printers which go back from now to a year or so and I have NOT been able to find that section in any of them. In fact I have only been able to find one instance of (Gantry) mentioned and that was in the Nozzle_Clean_Feature in the Configuration.h section. It is not even mentioned in the Configuration_adv.h section. Am I missing something? Could they have renamed it?
@@ChrisRiley Hmm .... Well that is strange indeed. I downloaded my Marlin Code from the exact same place. I wonder why none of mine have it in it. In fact the configuration_adv.h for most of my builds end at line 3095 with the exception of my BTT GTR which I use a custom Branch for. I just re-downloaded it and it is indeed in there so I am a bit perplexed. I basically start my builds from scratch using the default config files that is in it and not from the examples or what is now in the import configuration download. Oh well. At least I got it all straighten out now. Thanks for the help. Now I just have to go through my current build to copy the settings and insert them into my new downloaded version. Also not sure if I will end up using the Mechanical Gantry Calibration in the end as I just purchased more TMC2209 to try the 2 driver method. I will have to decide which version I like. :)
great video Chris as always, just a note the anycubic I3 mega and mega S has 2 independent Z motors each runing on its own driver👍🏼
I misspoke on that and just noticed it yesterday. 🙄 I put a note in the comments. Hopefully, at the end when I talk about the feature it makes since.
@@ChrisRiley no worries such things happen not a big deal, we love your work and the effort you put in these videos, keep up the good work 👍🏼👍🏼
I have an Ender-3 with a SKR mini E3 v2.0, so in this case I can follow the 1st process you describe (14:10 - 16:40)?
I have to disconnect also the z-endstop?
Do you think that I can add g34 in cura slicer at the beginning of every printing?
Yours video are always so helpful!!!
Many many thanks...
@@mitsre Yes, you should be able to set this up. You will have to flash Marlin I am guessing. Leave you Z endstop connected. Yes, just add the G34 in your start gcode.
I know im asking the wrong place but does anybody know of a method to get back into an Instagram account?
I stupidly lost the login password. I would love any tips you can give me
Very informative video, however I believe that the motors for the dual lead screw configurations that share a driver are actually wired in parallel and not series.
I agree. The breakout boards run them in parallel. It is possible to run them in series. I've done that when I needed more current but it is not commonly done.
After looking around there are some ticky configs out there, thinking about collecting a bunch of them and doing a recap video.
I agree with @rogernettles6719, I think the splitter cable is connected in parallel. Also if the motors were in series you should increase the Voltage and not the current.
Nevertheless, it is just a common confusion.
Nice work @EdTannenbaum! Thanks for sharing your deep knowledge!
This video would have saved me many hours a month ago. When I activated Aouto align after upgrading to Re-arm together with ramps 1.4 and added another steperdriver. With a BL it works great. Continue with these videos.
Thanks!
Cris,whenever I seen your videos.I can not imagine how deep knowledgeable you’re!!wonderful explanation.👍
Thank you!
I’m newbie in 3D,and I just bought makeblock mcreat printer.what’s your opinion about this machine!!can you make one review on makeblock mcreat printer!!?
@@kishorsoni2040 I don't know that printer, I will have to check it out.
Thank you, I literally need this info for a build I am doing. I was like I guess I will figure this out when I get there. Now I have a saved video to setup serial z with two endstops!
Glad I could help
Great video. I was amazed when I saw z-tilt function on klipper for the first time, but I see that marlin has this as well.
Another interesting Z design can be found on Voron switchwire where Z does not use leadscrew but is completely belted.
Yep, I have had a few belt Z printers over the years, Voron has kind of brought them back.
Thanks to you I've built my own 3d printer and your videos have always been a great help in teaching me more about 3d printing. Thank you 💜
That is awesome! Thanks for watching
I have passed on this video when it was published and i said to my self eeh that's nice and forgot about it , just to revisit it now after completing a very difficult and complicated ender3 dual z liner rails dual lead screws custom second z plate cnc out of 3m aluminum (wow that's alot) ,just to find out it sags down one side after all of that 🙄 , and after 2 ,3 ,4 days scratching my head and thinking i sould find another purpose in life or find a new hoppy or even a girl friend just to find out that you did here simply and elegantly and it would save me like 50$ of extra hardware, chris all the brotherly love in the world to you my friend and thanks.
I completely understand and feel your pain. Thank you for watching.
Another cracking video from the Chris Riley stable.....salute.
Thanks 👍
Hi Chris, great video as always. Easy to undestand and easy to apply. Tks a lot.
Thank you!
Good vid. Connecting two Z-motors to a single driver creates a PARALLEL connection, not series. Multiple occurrences.
Thanks Greg.
Love that your intros are short!
I love the Drum Roll .. :)
Yay! Thank you!
Perfect timing with the vid since I was looking into doing this with the BLTouch. Thanks.
Glad I could help!
Wow this video was exactly what I needed to diagnose my printer's issue with the dual Z screws where the one side usually droops a bit. Ordering the pulleys and belt right now to keep them synced.
Great! Good luck with your projects!
This video is gold. Perfect timing too. I just got my first dual z and been flashing this tronxy xy3 chitu board and firmware with marlin. this video is legitimately gold. I now have even more features from marlin over their trash firmware. Thank you.
Glad I could help
Great video as always 👍
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍😊
Thanks!
As always, you deliver the correct information in a fun and pleasing manner. you would have made a great school teacher. It's crazy to me that you don't have more subscribers, ( Your channel reminds me of an old channel back in the days when the RepRap movement was a fairly new thing, called ZennmasterM sadly his channel never had a huge amount of subs even though he was externally knowledgable.) all info is always spot on and you are very noticeable with both Hardware and software, unlike most, which I like to call smoke and mirror channels. they talk a good talk but know nothing of what they are talking about. If it means anything I respect you and the fact that you talk about something you know and are passionate about.
Wow, thanks a lot man!
Another great video Chris. Been looking how to emulate the prusa style gantry alignment for a while !
Glad it was helpful!
best upgrade I ever did to my ender 3 was the dual z axis with independent z motors. It was a big project for a beginner, included relocating the main board, upgrading the mainboard, editing marlin, all kinds of stuff. but once I set my bed level, that was it, my z-offset and bedmesh was perfect every time.
Great to hear! Thanks for your comment.
Thank you so much for this. I like how you explain everything in a simple way that even I can understand. I have the Mega S and bought a Bltouch but didn't want to lose the 2 Z endstop to connect it. I ordered a SKR 1.4 Turbo and I'll use your setup. Thanks again
Thanks for watching!
*You read my mind, i buy a dual z axis for my little Ender 3 pro, and a few day next, this video, thank you Chris, regards from Argentina!*
I love it when a plan comes together! Thank you
Brilliant video Chris, as always!!
Glad you enjoyed it
This video is GOLD. It saved me a few hours of research and testing. Thanks!
Glad it helped!
Great video, as always. Very informative and useful. Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks for your comprehensive explanation. This is exactly what I needed for my double z Ultimaker clone. Thumbs up!
Thank you, that's great!
Awesome vid Chris. I needed this, came out at the right time! Keep it up man!
Thanks! Will do!
Best video ever on Z axis configuration. Thank you very much Chris!
Wow, thanks!
Awesome! I haven't seen the video yet, but I love it!
I hope you talk about dual z-end stops, and gantry leveling with sensor or bl-touch.
Thanks! No bltouch, but we touched on Marlin features. :)
Excellent tutorial Chris. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Fantastic. Excellent level of detail in the explanations. 👍
Glad you liked it!
Some smart profs at my university warned me about the searies solution due to the motors inductivity, while mooving. They could affect each other in an uncontrolled way
Interesting.
When I saw the Video I hoped you would talk about sensorless homing on the Z axis a bit. Maybe next time, still really good, inforamtiv Video.
Yes, another video, I am still trying to find a printer that is will work well on. It's kind of picky.
Thanks Chris, I already done mine after the first live show you did this year when i asked, but you have made a few points that i will look into that will be handy. Thanks again :D
Great! Thanks for watching
Great video indeed, always good explanation and a joy to watch
Thank you kindly!
Hey Chris, Sorry to bug you again, I know I have been taking up quite a bit of your time, but you have been so much help. I installed a second z screw and stepper connected to the second z port on the btt skr e3 rrf with marlin still. I just enabled g34. I'm not sure what it is hitting at the top of its travel to stop it, it is too close to tell, either the top outer v roller is at the top of its travel, or, the lead screw nut is hitting the bearing block. either way, I am getting a variation of .2-.3 after performing the g34. would you suggest maybe making some type of hard stop attached to the 24x40 uprights that hits the actual 20x20 x extrusion? Or call that close enough? I like to have everything perfect, and after all I have done to it, I would assume I could get it perfect. I know I can correct it with tramming the bed, and running a mesh calibration. Am I being too critical? Thanks again!
That's what I would recommend something that you can confirm the gantry is all the way up and level. Maybe even a couple of washers on top of you Z nut as a test.
Great video. I'm waiting for part 2 where you can talk about "Z on belts" mods :)
🙂👍
More than wonderful, thank you, Chris
Glad you enjoyed it
Hello!
Awesome video!! Very clear and informative.
Just a question about the ender 3 pro. Can you add a second z end stop switch to fix the drooping on the none lead screw side?
Thanks! I am not sure if the stock board has another endstop port. The second endstop wouldn't do much good without a second Z motor.
Thanks for the video tutorial, I appreciate your insight. I have an issue after sending the G34 command where after the gantry has been leveled side to side the nozzle comes down and crashes into the bed before returning to home. Any idea as to why? I probably should add that I am using the stock tri-gorilla board in my chiron running bugfix 2.1.x.
You bet! Hmmm, the only thing I can think of is the Z size thinks it's bigger than it actually is. So it has to come down further than it thinks. Try adjusting that setting.
This great Chris, it really helps me out as a lot of your videos does....
Awesome, thank you!
Great Video, how can the breakout board splitter adapter be a series all I find is parallel and it makes sense to be parallel not series, curious to know!
They are parallel, for some reason when I made this video I was having a bad day and got my words mixed up. :)
Thanks Chris for a great video. I am currently installing a MKS Tinybee v1 to an Anycubic Mega p. Most of the wiring is done from the daughter boards/hubs. My question is I'd like to configure the dual Z motors as was with the Trigorilla Board. "2 z motors and 2 end stops. However the Tinybee has only one end stop z switch connection. I have all steppers fitted with TMC 2225 configured 2208 stand
-alone. I have enabled E1 for the extra Z motor but not sure how to configure another pin for the extra end switch. I think I can use the touch probe signal wire to the end stop for the extra motor but not sure if I can configure in Marlin. Any help would be most appreciated. Thanks😎😎😎😎
Hey, yes, you can use the probe pins but you will have to move the wires around. MT_DET would be easier, if you're not using it as it is wired the same as the endstops.
Check pinout: github.com/makerbase-mks/MKS-TinyBee/blob/main/hardware/MKS%20TinyBee%20V1.0_003/MKS%20TinyBee%20V1.0_003%20PIN.pdf
You want to use pin 2 if using the probe/servo pin. Change this in configuration_adv.h
//#define Z_MULTI_ENDSTOPS // Other Z axes have their own endstops
#if ENABLED(Z_MULTI_ENDSTOPS)
//#define Z2_STOP_PIN X_MAX_PIN // Z2 endstop pin override
To this:
#define Z_MULTI_ENDSTOPS // Other Z axes have their own endstops
#if ENABLED(Z_MULTI_ENDSTOPS)
#define Z2_STOP_PIN 2 // Z2 endstop pin override
This is great thanks I'll try your suggestions in due course Thanks for your attention😊@@ChrisRiley
Excellent video Chris, i always learn so much from your videos.
Awesome, thank you!
Don't take this the wrong way but it feels you are speaking with a raised voice all the time, and that makes it energetic :) but just wondering if that is what you are doing i still enjoy your content :)
I think it's just how I have the sound setup for videos. And how much coffee I have had.
I have an Ender-3 with a SKR mini E3 v2.0, so in this case I can follow the 1st process you describe (14:10 - 16:40)?
I have to disconnect also the z-endstop?
Do you think that I can add g34 in cura slicer at the beginning of every printing?
Yours video are always so helpful!!!
Many many thanks...
No need to disconnect your Z endstop. Yes, you can add the G34 to your start gcode. You may need to flash marlin to use it.
amazing video and very well detailed, now i can built my Prusa bear clone with marlin
Glad I could help!
Great video, I found useful tips in it. However, you said the 1-into-2 adapters (at 10:25) and the dual Z sockets on the SKR V1.4 (at 10:39) arrange the motors wired in series. According to the SKR schematic, they're actually wired in parallel, and I think most adapters are as well.
That's why you might need to increase the current, because it's divided between the motors; if they were wired in series, the current would be identical in each.
Yes they are. Only the SKR Pro (and i think SKR GTR too) dual-Z plugs are wired in series, rest is parallel.
That's funny, you are right, I thought they would have stuck with the old RAMPS method, but they did not.
Question about this connection, which may be address in the 1.3 segment, sry if it is. So I have the 1.4 (regular), when I connect my (2) Z motors to their ZAM and ZBM connections, will I/can I run the ZBM (I think that's going to be my 2nd added Z lead+motor) off of the E1 driver? I've got 1 more TMC2209 and was wondering if I need to put that in the 5th driver slot (which I think is E1). Then in Marlin, do I still want to uncomment Z2 when defining the driver type? No endstops on Z, I just use a bltouch.
@@miremaker Yes you can, just move the motor to E1 and uncomment Z2.
@@ChrisRiley Ok, so my 4 pin motor connection for my 2nd Z axis goes in E1 instead of ZMB? Will it still run in parallel with my original Z?
@9:30 That module connects the motor in parallel. To connect in series would be to halve the voltage of both steppers, which isn't something you really want to do. FWIW I hear a ton of people using "series" and "parallel" incorrectly these days. Did the definition change or something LOL
I know, I botched this, I am thinking about making a follow up video on it.
Chris, can you explain more about the "calibrate in the MIN direction"
I don't exactly remember what I was referring to, but my guess is I was talking about Z offset. You are setting the offset relative to z MIN.
Got the z stepper auto align working on my ender 5 (with second z) and my ender 5 plus.
thanks for this, combined with visual bed level of octoprint the bed is now almost perfect flat.
That's great news! Thanks
Great video! Another Z Axis question? Can Marlin be used to drive 3 Z Axis motors to make a Kinematic bed level using a probe as z stop?
I think it is in there now, if not it should be soon.
@@ChrisRiley Thank you for the encouragement. Waiting on my replacement controller board to try it out.
Z Multiple End Stops : Is it possible to fit a Mechanical Endstop as a safety to a BLTOUCH, maybe 0.1 below BLTOUCH level
Hmmm...maybe, I think you could probably find a right mix of config for that in Marlin.
So some of the TM drivers can sense when the head hits the bed, or the gantry hits the top by reading a motor stall? Which ones? I used to use two Z motor drivers on my printer to make the wiring easier, but now have them in series (3v motors on 12v supply!). I only have one extruder, so I do have a driver socket unused on my RAMPS. Upgrading two drivers wouldn't be that expensive to add Z calibration. I don't think my gantry droops much at power off (I should center the X axis on end of print, that would help), as my NEMA23 drivers have more "drag" with no power than NEMA17 (I'm using them because they were CHEAP surplus).
Yes, currently 2130's, 2209's and for larger motors 5160's and 5161's.
As always, this video is incredibly useful. Thank you again Chris, you're the best!
Glad you think so!
Love you and this video so much. This is just what I am looking for when building my printer. Love your videos because you explain everything i need to know. After other videos in yt I keep searching and searching for hours and hours but thats not the case woth you. Thanks again!!!
Glad it was helpful!
Can pair of T8-2mm lead screw on dual motor prevent from falling? It seems your LOG has T8-2mm lead screws on it.
Yes, Tr8-2's are really hard to backfeed.
I know this is an older video, but I'm hoping you can help answer a question. I have the Creality 4.2.7 board, which has TMC2225 drivers. From what I've been told, the 4.2.7 does not support UART (unless I do an extensive mod to the board), and as such I was also told that I need to define the drivers in Marlin as "standalone". So because of that, can I still enable the z-axis leveling that you're showing in this video? If I can't use UART, then it's my understanding that the drivers current can't be software controlled, am I right? I may be way off as I'm still at the very beginning stages of learning about 3D printing. I have constant z-axis leveling issues (Ender 3 Pro with Sprite Extruder Pro), as the left side of the X-Axis gantry is heavier than the right, due to the larger mounting plate for where the Extruder stepper used to be mounted. Whenever I power down, the left side drops slightly. It holds up better when the power is on, but trying to level it manually every time is such a pain (lowering the gantry and using two equally sized blocks and rotating the lead screws independently to try and level it). Anyway, any help you can give would be amazing. Thank you
On that board it's going to be hard to get this working. To make it useful you would need 2 different Z drivers. You are correct, if the drivers are standalone you can't adjust the current.
Great video! I am wondering, what if the bed is not level and and Z axis are misaligned. How to make G34 properly?
If you have a probe it can.
Yooo chris, what is the mechanism on the right side of your prusa at 12:30 The blue piece, is it a filament wiper/purge thing?
Yes, it's the Big Brain system. ua-cam.com/video/V4u0UnHD9Tw/v-deo.html
Eggscellent video Chris. Answered many questions and learned of new features.. How do you use a z-probe while implementing the G34 command? I think that would be the ultimate configuration, no endstops to align. Thanks...
Thanks Mark, that's a good question, we might be able to work that out.
Very helpful thank you!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching
Covered nearly all information I needed. Thank you very much! :D
I'm so glad. We're really proud of our work. Thank you
Great video. I wish I had watched it over the weekend before I had this issue. I was printing Friday night no problem. I woke up Saturday and started to print and I could not get a first layer to print. Finally I shut it down and manually recalibrated everything as if it came straight out of the box. My Z was a little out of whack and when I got it fixed everything seemed to work. My guess is one of the screws moved when it was powered down
I have seen videos of some people running it to the top with the move z button on the screen and then running it a couple of times with the motors grinding. It seems to work but I wonder if that could be harmful?
I used the credit card method.
A lot of printers use the "skipping step" method. It's not actually physically skipping, so i think the harm it might do would be very minimal.
What I got:
- Small buildplate could use 1 Z-axis, also could one nema motor to drive 2 lead screws to mitigate the slope on the side with not lead screw.
- even the config of 2 nema motors & 2 lead screw may suffer some droop, soln: using Timing belts to sync the 2 lead screws.
- Dual z axis breakout board is used for the boards with the single port for z-axis
- GANTRY_MECHANICAL_CALIBRATION Option to level z axes assuming rigid frame, moving gantry all the way up till it hits the frame (prusa has this option)
-- GANTRY_MECHANICAL_Current: drawn current through calibration, usually half of run current
-- GANTRY_MECHANICAL_feedrate: how fast it moves through calibration.
- motors don't remain energized all the time, when it happens it may lose some steps >> DEFAULT_STEPPER_DEACTIVATE_TIME (false: energized all the time)
-- for trinamic Config : HOLD_MULTIPLIER 0.3 it holds at (30%) of normally would be
- Alternative to mechanical calibration is a software soln that uses 2 endstop (e.g. Anycubic Chiron)
- best practice for dual motors that their current is as close as possible on both motors.
- Z_STEPPER_ALIGN_XY : aligning or calibrating the Z-axis stepper motors with respect to the X and Y axes on a 3D printer
- STARTUP_COMMANDS: anything you put in between these quotes will run at startup
👍
Another great, informative and helpful video. I'm running my ender 3 with 2 z motors and screws but with a parallel splitter in the meantime, and I have everything ready to go dual driver with automatic alignment as you did on Log (I'll make my 2208s communicate, too). I was pushing it as it works as is, but now I have no reason not to do it ASAP. My only concern is the accuracy of my 3D touch - not that it has a big deviation, it's actually very accurate, but every single print (mainly the first that day and the second) I have to adjust my Z offset a lot (0.2-0.3mm). I think it's from the probe heating up with the first print over the heated bed but I might be wrong. Any ideas how to make it not do this? I remember your 3D vs BL touch test vid, that's when I bought the 3D.. Maybe you have experience with this issue? Thank you!
I wish I knew how to keep them from drifting like that. I am not really sure what the heat does to them.
@@ChrisRiley I looked further into it today and it seems, that there was (and is?) an issue with the fade height being enabled... I played with it, so far I added M420 Z0 (disable fade height) before the bed leveling sequence. I also added the M420 Z{whatever} (enable fade height) into my start gcode after i retrieve the mesh info. So far, after messing around with short prints, i did not need to change my z offset. But I want to see it work after the probe being over the heated bed for longer periods. Maybe you can try so we can cross check? Thanks for your reply! :)
@@beedee95 I will see if I can run a test.
Hi Chris! I have one misunderstanding about Z auto align. What if the bed is not even like in my case? I use BL Touch and UBL with saved mesh in slot 1. How then the "Z auto align" function uses the bed as a reference when it not even? Is it the Z auto align respect the saved mesh for bed leveling when it align the Z? That is what I can't understand. And where the G34 command should be placed in start G code, before G29 or after? Or doesn't matter?
The 2 aren't tided together. The G34 is just a guess on how level you X is to your bed. You will then have to let UBL pick up the slack from there. I would G34 first.
Using the breakout board, the motors arnt i series, they are parallel.
Running from one motor to the next, is a series connection.
You are correct, I put out an update and add something to the comments.
@@ChrisRiley Electrically speaking, breakout splitter or by cable extension, all connections to a single driver are parallel.
Going by the title of this video I was hoping it would solve my problem but you didn't even get close. I installed an SKR1.4turbo with a TFT35 in my 6yr old Creality 10s which used to work just fine before this so called upgrade. Now I'm trying to set the calibration for the bed size and 'Z' height. All moves seem normal except for the 'Z'. When trying raise the extruder 'Z' movement it moves very slowly (like 1/4"/min) and the distance travelled per the LCD screen is like 200mm but it never moved 200mm, it might have moved 5mm?? I have no idea of how to correct this and can't find anything on YT addressing this exact issue. When we discuss 'Z' shouldn't the travel be part of the discussion?? I love you vids and hope you can help.
You Z steps are probably set to incorrectly, makes sure this line is set like this. #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 400, 93 }
@@ChrisRiley Chris, bang on!! I finally figured out that the 'Z' setting here being at 4000 was too high. It's set to 400 and the 'Z' is working fine now. What was happening here is I was updating Marlin but my MB wasn't updating because I didn't realize we had to 'SAVE' the updated firmware to the EEPROM or all would be lost. Even though I've been 3D printing for 5yrs+, updating firmware was too complex to me. Now with Marlin, newer quieter drivers etc, I decided to take the plunge. Unfortunately, there's not one single video out there eg: "Operating your Printer" Installing FW Updates/Printing/G-Code. A video explaining how to update FW to any MB and what one MUST do to succeed with the update, including what EEPROM 'Reset' does or what 'LOAD' does etc. When and 'how' to use the USB cable to the MB, or when to use the TFT SD card reader, or USB port on the TFT. You have no idea how many videos I watched before finally hearing one guy say "don't forget to SAVE your upload or it'll be lost" and THAT very brief mention solved my upload issue and eventually being able to change my 'Z' speed. Please don't misinterpret me, your videos are so helpful and well produced but don't forget, some of us are NOT well versed in 3D print or Marlin terminology. Maybe you could do a series 'For Newbies' and an 'Advanced' series. Believe me I do alot of research prior to posting questions and I like trying to figure things out on my own but sometimes......
One more question. When you make changes using G-code (via Pronterface or directly from the TFT) shouldn't we also reflect those changes in Marlin? I've never heard mention of this and I wonder, if we do a change with g-code then won't that change be lost with the next Marlin update to the MB? Thanks for your patience with me and be safe!
On an ender 3. Dual z driver, and motor, should I pull the inner wheels off the x to make it smoother and easier?
I wouldn't, I would want as much stability left and right as I could get.
How can I setup Z top gantry calibration in a CR10S if the left side I have a BMG extruder? I mean when it will go to the top, the extruder will collide with the bracket of the lead screw first, the right side will never collide to the top. Maybe I need to mount some sort of dummy object to match the same height as the right side?
That is about the easier thing to do, some printers create parts that ride on the Z nut for this purpose.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks Chris... finally I managed to use the two Z steppers method much easier than expected
Hi Chris, another great vid. Can you please help me with a minor printing problem? I am using Cura slicer and all of my prints have the same niggling problem. I usually print everything with a brim for bed adhesion but it takes quite a while before any filament starts to appear from the nozzle, strangely enough though it prints my purge line perfectly. I am sure this can be corrected in the Cura settings, but I don't know where to start! Any advice you can give me would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Hey Fred, sounds like there is a retraction in there that is too far. I would have to see that piece of gcode to see what is up.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks Chris, I will have a look at my retraction settings, but unfortunately everything is on hold for now because my MB a BTT SKR 1.4 has packed in, I had a failed print yesterday because the thermal runaway protection kicked in and stopped the print. From then on, any attempt to pre-heat the bed causes Marlin to request a reset, the temp display will not rise above 8 degrees. I thought it must be a faulty bed thermistor, but after carrying out some tests with my multimeter on the thermistor and then the wiring, everything checked out OK, so I ordered a new MB which will arrive today. Hey-ho, the joys of 3D printing😢. I will let you know the outcome when I have fitted the new SKR 1.4, this may be of interest to other viewers of this post.
@@m0gga Good Luck Fred, keep us posted.
@@ChrisRiley The MB is fitted now and the printer is up and running again, I still need to have a look at those retraction settings but I am in the middle of a twenty hour print job at the moment so that will have to wait for now, thanks again for your help so far.
@@ChrisRiley Well I found the problem with retraction, it was a 4.5mm retraction in my Cura start gcode, all is working fine now, thanks for pointing me in the right direction 👌
I definitely learned something here today. My extended ender3 now has an almost perfectly square gantry thanks to your posting this tutorial. What are the chances you'll be explaining closed loop stepper motors and how to tune the driver PID any time soon?
Glad to hear it, I hope to get to close loop steppers sometime soon.
15:40 Is that possible to use gantry calibration in y axis, where two stepper motors are used
You can change up what spots it uses to probe, there is a map in configuration_adv.h with your options, just not sure how that would work for Y.
Hi Chris. Nice video. I see you make clone for Prusa MK3 . What firmware you use? I try compile new Marlin 2.0.7.2 version for Einsy Rambo 1.2b , after flash I have problem with LCD and SD card . What Marlin you use in your clone ? thanks .
I currently run a SKR 1.3 with Marlin 2.0.7.2
@@ChrisRiley Thanks. I have some problem , but solve it. In platformio.ini I have bad env setting .. from atmega2560 change to rambo . Your videa are super. Step by step is good for all not only for beginner .. best regards.
Hello there, i have a skr 1.3 and btt2209s and running newest marlin, i have everything working on the printer but when i run the z axis up one side goes faster than the other and its causing binding but ran perfectly before doing the g34 add...any clue why? tyvm for everything you do..
Hey Jon, so only thing I can think of is the Z2 settings in configuration_adv.h is set to a different step rate then the Z motor is. Try clearing eeprom as well. M502 then M500.
Hi Chris another great video. But I cannot find mechanical_Gantry_Calibration in ADV.H ?
Hmmm...in 2.0.7.2 it is on line 3384
@@ChrisRiley ?? we are suppose to be on the same 2.0.7.2, but mine is at line 3455
@@jtl789456123 hmmm
Hi Chris problem sorted I downloaded the separate configeration
Sorry. Configuration files and used the Creality Ender 3 example folder
Love your videos and followed every step exactly to but I am getting the error "No E1 stepper available for E_DUAL_STEPPER_DRIVERS!" using an ender 3 with a bltouch and skr mini e3 v2
SKR Mini only has 4 drivers, you would need 5 to do that config.
@@ChrisRiley okay that makes sense! Thank you, do you have a suggestion for my best option?
@ChrisRiley - I have 2 Ender 3 S1 Pros, both running klipper firmware. Is there a way to run something similar to the G34 command on these printers?
Check out Z tilt www.klipper3d.org/G-Codes.html#z_tilt
So what is better dual z or independent z this depends on your avalible hardware i guess... i did not check yet but dose the creality v4.2.7 board have provided for a dual z independent.. my kit only came with the extender plug.. i found no difference and i have had dual z since my prusa mendel 3ii
Not sure on the Creality board options. It really depends on hardware. They can both be just as good.
@@ChrisRiley ok ill just hook it up as the kit suggests..
How to make best way dual z on cube coreXY? I have tronxy x5sa and when tune marlin on it, many times it cause me many holes into bed. I speculated to add 2 hw block, but it can be add to bottom or to top? If do it on top, so it prevent to do holes, but can t be possible to change hotend.
I'm not sure I understand your question?
I saw many new corexy with dual z have balance on top. But when make hardware stop on top, have fixed level on nozzle. So if change shorter nozzle, must rebuild all printer. So i am not sure, how to properly solve it.
OR.. one could retrofit Single Start Z screws and eliminate the gravity /falling X axis issue...at source ?
Yes, that would help for sure.
Hi Chris, what about a CoreXZ Design, as the Voron SwitchWire is using it? Then you don't have lead screws right? //R
Yes, there are a lot of belt Z machines out there. That is a whole different animal I will touch on in another video.
@@ChrisRiley Wow, I am looking forward for that video. Thanks a lot, keep making such great videos! //R
The bracket that is in place of the PSU spot on Ender 3 frame? Are STL files available somewhere?
The bracket is in this project. www.printables.com/model/49529-prusa-lack-enclosure-v2-modded-for-the-ender-3
@ChrisRiley Thank You :)
Great video. Please make some video regarding the Z wobble or Z banding.
Great suggestion!
I got a problem I can't understand.
My printer prints extra 3-4 mm for any print(10mm turns to about 14mm and 40mm turns to 44mm).
There is no resistance to the gantry and the z rod is aligned.
When measuring the z height manually using a caliper it is perfectly accurate so no need to change z steps.
Changing the current doesn't change anything.
It is impossible I am losing steps since it is making too many steps instead of less.
I'm using a bltouch with a grid so alignment is also not a problem.
Cr 10 with dual z on single driver. Skr 1.4 (marlin) with tmc2209 on 12v.
You could be running into ABL fade. I would try to run a print with out ABL and see if you have the same issue.
Hey, is there any 3d model of that wire brush nozzle clean for prusa mk3 ?
I flipped through the video, not sure the STL you are talking about.
good tutorial about z motors. A curious question Chris.."-If I use two motors in series, do I have to double the current to the Z driver /motors or if I set the current for Z (in the software) to 1 A does both motors get 1A?
Thanks! In series the current will be the same and these motors are current driven, the down side would be voltage drop, which we don't have to worry about here. Parallel , the voltage is the same, the total current is the sum of the currents flowing through each component.
To answer your question, they both get 1 amp.
It's a bit more complicated. If the motors are wired in series, then the current path is through a winding on the first motor and then a winding on the second motor, so those currents are equal to the current set by your software. If the motors are in parallel, then the there are two current paths, and the regulated current splits between them. So you would think that the series connection is better. However, in the series connection, each motor sees only half of the available voltage.
Why would that matter if the driver is controlling current, and manages to achieve that current? Because the driver strategy is to apply full available voltage at the beginning of a step in order to raise the current as fast as possible to "overcome" the winding's inductance. It then uses high-frequency PWM to adjust the current to the set value. If only half the voltage is available, then the initial current ramp is only half as fast. So that decreases the rate at which torque builds at the beginning of the step, and ultimately reduces the maximum reliable stepping speed. (Another way of saying the same thing is that connecting the motors in series doubles the inductance that the driver is trying to drive with the same PSU voltage.)
For that reason, if you want the two motors to achieve the same torque and speed, you should connect them in parallel and double the current setting, which may or may not be available from your driver.
However, if you're adding a second Z motor to what was previously a single Z setup, then in your new setup each motor has only half the load compared to the single motor setup. (And that load is composed of two components: overcoming momentum to change the speed of the mechanism, and then ongoing overcoming of friction or raising against gravity). So, noting the half-load for each motor, you could connect in parallel and just let each motor get half the current, or in series and they get half the maximum voltage. In parallel you'll get the rapid initial current ramp and initial increase in torque, but followed by half of the ongoing torque (within that step). In series you'll get half the initial rate of increase of torque, followed by the full ongoing torque (again, per step, and compared to single motor). It's not clear which would be the better tradeoff.
hi chris can you share the printer part file for the aluminum extrusion stand like the one you used on ender 3?
Hey, i'm not sure what part you are talking about, can you give me a time stamp where you see it?
Please share the link for Ender 3 Z brace shown at 1:20, Thank You
It is here. www.prusaprinters.org/prints/49529-prusa-lack-enclosure-v2-modded-for-the-ender-3/files
Single Z motor, twin screw with syncing belt is best bang for buck z solution. Do not need speed, resting weight takes up the backlash.
Great point.
@@ChrisRiley I have a frankenstein CR10 using this one : www.thingiverse.com/thing:2829855
@@lowellhouser7731 Sweet! Thanks for the link.
Do you have STL file for that angle bracket that replaces the power supply on ender 3?
It's in here. www.printables.com/model/49529-prusa-lack-enclosure-v2-modded-for-the-ender-3/files
Awesome video chris!😁👍
Thanks 👍
Does a G34 in then ending gcode override the motor current timeout?
G34 reenergizes the motors if it needs to.
Hi Chris
I had a Marlin configuraton (some version 2.???) witch had a line in Configuration_adv.h that configures the number of z-axes.
The line is: #define NUM_Z_STEPPER_DRIVERS 2 does specify 2 z-axes.
In Marlin 2.1.1 the line is no longer in Configuration_adv.h.
I don't understand what is changed and how the configuration for z-auto-align works.
I always had the Z1 driver for the left Z-AXE & E1 driver for the right Z-AXE.
So if i configured
#define X_DRIVER_TYPE TMC2209 // For X
#define Y_DRIVER_TYPE TMC2209 // For Y (Left & Right on one driver)
#define Z_DRIVER_TYPE TMC2209 // For Z-Left
#define E0_DRIVER_TYPE TMC2209 // For Extruder
#define E1_DRIVER_TYPE TMC2209 // For Z-Right
If i do this in Marlin 2.1.1 the TMC driver for E1 is not acivated, only the Z1 driver is active.
You say that when you use the E1-driver then you must define Z2 in Confituration.h. Then the E1 driver is automaticaly used.
What is the logic about that?
What if i want to use E3 and leve E1 & E2 un-used? Maybe i want to use them for something esle?
So what if you use 2 extruders?
Could you make a video that does explane Z-auto-align works in Marlin in detail?
Thank you
I will have to check into this. I'm not sure what things have changes in Marlin 2.1
Hello sir. Can you do a video on lead screw upgrades like t8x8 to t8x4 or t8x2?
I'll see what I can do. Thanks for watching
So I can put pre-print commands in my slicer, Octoprint AND firmware - which one would you recommend? I plan on buying only one printer, so different profiles for different printers are not an issue for me.
I think slicer is probably still the best/safest.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks, will do.
Great video , very helpful as always !!! You are the Best
I appreciate that!
Did they remove the Mechanical_Gantry_Calibration from the latest Marlin 2.0.x ?
I have checked multiple builds I have for a few printers which go back from now to a year or so and I have NOT been able to find that section in any of them. In fact I have only been able to find one instance of (Gantry) mentioned and that was in the Nozzle_Clean_Feature in the Configuration.h section. It is not even mentioned in the Configuration_adv.h section.
Am I missing something? Could they have renamed it?
They still show it on github, github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/Configuration_adv.h line 3384.
@@ChrisRiley Hmm .... Well that is strange indeed. I downloaded my Marlin Code from the exact same place. I wonder why none of mine have it in it. In fact the configuration_adv.h for most of my builds end at line 3095 with the exception of my BTT GTR which I use a custom Branch for.
I just re-downloaded it and it is indeed in there so I am a bit perplexed. I basically start my builds from scratch using the default config files that is in it and not from the examples or what is now in the import configuration download. Oh well. At least I got it all straighten out now.
Thanks for the help.
Now I just have to go through my current build to copy the settings and insert them into my new downloaded version. Also not sure if I will end up using the Mechanical Gantry Calibration in the end as I just purchased more TMC2209 to try the 2 driver method. I will have to decide which version I like. :)
How to find out the Z_STEPPER_ALINGN_XY perfect settings you snow at 22:51? Is there any way to measure?
As far out as you can get will get you the best results.
I upload firmware on printer,screen would not turn on,switch cable around and screen making a clicking noise.
What is your LCD screen setting?