@@ChrisRiley To be fair, the MMU makes it so easy! And of course it helps that Prusa Firmware is open and their code is straightforward to adapt. The "ramming" moves actually do a lot of the magic by making sure the filament tip is re-insertable. (Examine the tips of the ejected filament and tune ramming as needed for your nozzle, folks!) As for the starting G-code, M221 should be fine. M420 S1 is generally preferred over G29 if you have a big mesh. I'll see about adding the G-code that tells the MMU what the materials are. That will make the display on the MMU more useful. Thanks for providing a very thorough run-through. I hope this encourages others to consider the MMU2 as a single-nozzle multi-color solution. It's a great alternative to devices like the Palette+, and I can't wait to see what someone with a Very Large Bed™ does with it.
It's not about getting it right on the first time, it's about the whole sum up of knowledge you've put together for this on the first place. Awesome job Chris!
Hey Chris, great video! As the person who ported the MMU2 stuff to Marlin I'm glad it's also working for others and not just for me. A short clarification: the load/ramming sequence in Configuration_adv.h is used for loading and unloading filament from the MMU2 menu. All the filament changing stuff during a print is handled via gcode. So if you have issues with the purge block tweak the multi-material settings in Prusa Slicer and not the ones in the Marlin firmware.
What's disturbing is that its been about a year and no one has shown how to build a MMU from cloned parts and how to set it up on an Ender 3. Am I really going to be that person?
@@hypercube33 The MMU is cheap enough that personally I'd rather see a really well done, thorough video, adapting it to an Ender3. Direct drive conversion, SKR 1.3 firmware config, mounting to the Ender, etc.
@@hypercube33 There are clones you can buy from aliexpress. I bought one and put it on my Ender (skr Mini E3 V2). The communication is now setup thanks to the gent @revilor so for now i've gotta work on the calibration of the sequences. So far only minor issues with the clone.
Really cool. I was going to ask about bowden tube but I see someone else did. Ive already had my fiddling on printer quota for the year so might save for a Palette 2 instead. I'm so glad you do this stuff for us.
Finally yes! I've been waiting for this! There's another person that's currently working on making the MMU2 work with the Duet boards (Duet Wifi/Maestro etc). You should check that out too!
Great video! Now I need to save up a little so I can add this to my Anet E10. :-) And I'll have to get a RepKord box to set it up nicely. Chris, you've opened up a whole new realm for Multi-Material Printing! Oh, forgot to add that I can't wait to see how cheap these are going to get once the Chinese get their hands on it. I'm thinking 6 months and Creality will introduce their own MMU as an add on for the Ender 5+. Now that would be something! Large build volume, 4 colors, dissolvable supports, OMG! I think I just extruded!
I am shocked to see so little about this multi-filament solution. I've been into 3d printing for almost 3 years now and I just found out about this gizmo today.
I've been considering adding the Prusa extruder onto my CR-10 as it seems pretty easy. I did it to my other printers, and they all work really well compared to how they did previously. Would be interesting to see you tackle something similar that wasn't a Prusa clone Chris. :-)
Saw a marlin mmu2s support for marlin 2.0 thread got closed. I think we're quite close and the last part is integrating the an extruder's filament sensor. If that's figured out then I think mmu2s will work on any marlin printer!
Hi Chris, maybe a bit late to the party here. At 10:00 you mention you dont have a filament sensor added, or thats how i heard it. How do you manage that in firmware?
In this version or Marlin they hadn't implemented the extruder filament sensor yet, it was just fire and forget. Now you can use it in Marlin just like Prusa does.
Been thinking about this since I watched your video I use a SKR 1.3 board. What if you made a 'Y' cable for the runout sensor on the MMU2 board to the signal pin on the SKR pin P1_28 for runout sensor? Don't think you'd need power but maybe a ground as well.
Hi chris. As always really nice and helpful video. I try to put mmu2 on cr10 with skr 1.3 board. And it work. Thanks to you! I have a question though..when printing with only one filament, does marlin support features that ask user to choose which filament user want to use (via lcd just like prusa printer)?
Lately I have been thinking exactly the same thing. I have no need for an MMU on my ender but boy I like to tinker! Maybe even build my own MMU clone. Chris you could make a LOG MMU. LOL
Your videos are awesome always, I am wondering if the CR10s Pro motherboard can connect to MMU2 through USB port, since it doesn't have extra Tx, Rx available in the board but at the same time the USB port is a UART itself.
@@ChrisRiley I was looking at the board and found that the LCD connects through serial connection at RTX/2 since I use octoprint everytime is not much a problem to disconnect it, since the RTX3 isn't wired and don't wanna take a risk at burning the board while soldering so small pins.
I know you made this video a while ago but I am wondering if the setup is still the same. I have a Prusa MK3S with a SKR 1.4Turbo and I want to add my MMU2S to it. I have not seen it done yet and wonder if it would be the same to setup?
I am curious why you didn’t just use the Prusa firmware? I was planning on swapping my board for the Einsy Rambo board Prusa uses and using their firmware.
The printer I am working with would be hard to tune actual Prusa firmware. On my machine I would have to change a few things. This was more to show the MMU2 feature of Marlin works.
hi chris, i wil instal a profesional firmware to my ender 3 s1, is it possibele to make this work with this firmware? and wil work this tool at a ender 3 s1 direct drive?
A little confused. Doesn't the MMU2S come with its own board? Or is it just the clones I've look at? I use the SKR 1.3 board and would also see it working before shelling out a lot of money. TIA
Hi Chris , trying to put MMU2 on a Bear using SKR Turbo 1.4 , I need a little push on Serial connection -- Pin order onboard is RST, RXo , TXo, Gnd , Npwr.. Brown , White , Green, space ,Blue .. Correct ?
Excellent video. The one major dislike that I have with the MMU is that the waste/wipe tower is so large, sometimes larger than the print object itself. BTW, can you tell me where you got the stl files for the Prusa print carriage?
I'm trying to do this on a SKR1.4 Turbo board and i'm getting an pins error? #Serial port pins (2) conflict with e stepper pins. Any help is appreciated. Thank You in Advance.
@@ChrisRiley thanks I did and my skr board is not communicating with the mmu? Am I supposed to hook it up to the tft pins or the I2C pins? Thanks for the help again
Would this work for a Anycubic Kobra Go? I think it can but i have trouble understanding how the MMU would connect to my printer, would it use the filament runout sensor as guide reference?
It could work if there are some RX and TX pins available. The tricky part is the runout sensor. It needs to be very close to where the filament feeds in to work correctly.
@@ChrisRileyI was thinking of this as well, but I'm still trying to figure out how the MMMu would know when to changes colours if I cant connect to the printer directly.
been wanting to try this on my sidewinder I have the hermera hotend on it now and a. removeable spring bed I'd really just be more interested in 2 or 3 color prints more than anything due to customer parts I mainly print ABS
it would be something that RRF would need to add support for. There are additional serial pins on duet boards. Since Marlin code for MMU2 is open source, if you know what you're doing adding support for it in RRF would not be hard.
I'm trying to set an MMU2s up on my (non-original) i3 on a MKS Gen board. When I upload the firmware leaving the serial port settings on default, the LCD screen doesn't work anymore. What could cause that? I've tried using serial port 3 and connecting the TX/RX cables to Ymin/Ymax, which doesn't interfere with the screen, but the MMU2 menu item does nothing. :/
@@ChrisRiley Sorry, I never got a notification of a reply. :< The MKS Gen is an 8 bit board, basically just one of those RAMPS based chinese boards. I've been trying all the combinations of setting MMU2_SERIAL, INTERNAL_SERIAL_PORT and SERIAL_PORT_2 I can think of, and even had my friend test my MMU2 board on his original prusa to confirm that it is indeed working. I still can't get it to communicate with my MKS Gen though, no matter what I try. I will set up a spare RAMPS board from scratch and see if I can get any further on that.
@@ChrisRiley So I've done a lot of testing now, with two different MKS Gen boards and a RAMPS. The MMU2 works fine on the RAMPS, on all serial ports. On the MKS Gens it does work on serial 2, but that of course makes it impossible to use the LCD. It does not work on MKS Gen when connected to serial 1/3 on the Y/Z-pins, so I suspect that the MKS Gen doesn't actually have serial on those ports. I have a SKR 1.3 on the way, so I'm going to replace the MKS Gen anyway on that printer, hopefully that works better. Thanks for the answers. :)
2 qestions: How to clone the MMU2? I got a dual (independant) extruder printer. Is it possible to fit 2 MMUs on one printer to get a range of 10 colors?? :D
@@ChrisRiley I saw a bunch of options on Ali...... got confused easily as to what was/wasn't included. Still pricey. But as they say, when you play you pay.
This might be an odd question, but does anybody know where to find the insert nut used to retain the pneumatic fitting on the filament selector? I can't seem to find that specific insert anywhere. Even hardware kits that you find people selling for the mmu2s omit that one specific part. The reason I am looking for it is because I enjoy projects and decided to build an mmu2s from the ground up, sourcing the parts myself. I have found literally everything else that I need to build this thing except for that one little brass fixture. Really the only reason I wanted to find the specific one used by Prusa was just so I didn't have to take the time to modify the 3D model to accommodate a different insert nut, but I have spent so much time looking for it at this point that I may as well have just modified the f****** model!
@@ChrisRiley Thanks Chris, appreciate the reply. I came across that site in my travels but assumed they didn't deal in small quantities because they require to be contacted for pricing. I admit I made an assumption and didn't actually bother to contact them though.
Hey out of curiosity has anyone tried this on an skr v1.4 turbo? I currently have one on my mk3s and can't figure out where to plug the connector into. I have a tft 35 v3.0 so I can't use the tft port and both my serial ports are being used. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also can I run the power cable straight to the psu? Thanks!
@@ChrisRiley thank you for the response. Would it be more worth it to just place it on another prusa with the stock einsy board? Or do you think it would be better on the skr v1.4?
@Chris Riley thanks for your answer. I use a MKS 1.4 gen as main controller, I read somewhere on internet that MMU or Clone works on RAMPS card and the MKS 1.4 is based on a RAMPS project. In the future I'll buy a MMU clone for some tests. I will keep you updated on the results.
I have set this up with my Ender 3 using various peoples config files and increased the retraction, but my prints are covered in very fine stringing and I have not been able to solve this yet------ Sorry I have just replied to the wrong video!!!!!!!!!!!! I had multiple videos open
@@ChrisRiley Yes and today I figured out what the problem was, It was my filament I was using Creality filaments, I changed to some Feesculpt filaments and all is as it should be.
I'm not able to use the Aux 1 pins on my Skr 1.3 board. I'm planning to use my TFT pins instead, and outside of moving the connector pins to the right spots, are there any other steps I need to take so it'll still work?
I don't know anything about the S1. I know it won't work right out of the box, you would have to have UART pins available, flash an updated version or Marlin and probably a direct drive extruder setup. They are a lot of work to get going.
hey chris im trying to get the mmu2s working on my skrv1.4 and when i compile the firmware i get errors and im confused as how to work out what servo pin to define, is there any chance you can hope on discord with me later, my discord is penguino, i have you added, ill message you on discord this too. thanks in advance.
I have a question regarding the compatibility of this upgrade with octoprint. Is the MMU controlled by normal gcode? If yes as far as i understand, it should work with the pi just feeding it to the board. If it runs diffrent, please lemme know, because then the upgrade wouldnt be feasable
Wanted to give an update after watching this video. I purchased a used MMU2S off eBay for about the price of a clone. I have an Ender 3 Pro with the SKR 1.3 board. I have it working and works well. there are two quirks which are probably related to the serial port. The firs is when the machine is powered on, the machine boots twice. The second, is I do not get status update on my LCD screen. They stop as soon as the hotend reached temp and bed leveling. Still getting status updates on Octoprint, so no biggy. Also I used the TFT port just above the serial port. That maybe the reason or I'm using the right serial port in Marlin 2.0. Can't seem to find any answers regarding the port number designation.
@@NATY1110 #define SERIAL_PORT -1 /** * Select a secondary serial port on the board to use for communication with the host. * This allows the connection of wireless adapters (for instance) to non-default port pins. * Serial port -1 is the USB emulated serial port, if available. * * :[-1, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7] */ //#define SERIAL_PORT_2 -1 #if ENABLED(PRUSA_MMU2) // Serial port used for communication with MMU2. // For AVR enable the UART port used for the MMU. (e.g., internalSerial) // For 32-bit boards check your HAL for available serial ports. (e.g., Serial2) //#define INTERNAL_SERIAL_PORT 2 //#define MMU2_SERIAL internalSerial #define MMU2_SERIAL Serial
Do you happen to know why my mk3s, mmu2s can’t print pla? I was only successful at pla when I fed the filament directly to the extruder, if the filament is fed through the mmu2s, the filament would seem to jam up in the hotend.
Hi. I'm in need of some advice. I'm helping a friend add a prusa mmu2 to his cr-10s. His using the skr1.3 board with tmc 2130 drivers and the stock cr-10 display. So the mmu is connected to the tft port (aux1) and the part that we have a problem with is enabling a serial port for the skr in marlin 2.0. I've read somewhere that the tft port is apparently identified as serial port 0. So in config.h I defined SERIAL_PORT_2 as 0 and later in configuration advanced settings I set the mmu serial to SERIAL_PORT_2. And the weird thing is that when we turn the printer on configured as such, the display won't switch on and from what we can tell the skr doesn't boot up properly. However when we unplug the mmu for booting and then plug it back in, the printer works. The mmu just doesn't. So we believe the display somehow interferes with the mmu. I'm not an expert but aren't those displays using SPI to communicate? SPI and Serial are two separate interfaces so they shouldn't influence each other right? Anyways. I'm not sure at this point where the problem exactly lays. The thing I'm not sure about is enabling the secondary serial in marlin for the skr 1.3. I know how to do it for a regular AVR boards, it's the skr I know nothing about. In general. How do I set it up to work with any serial device? Not necessarily the mmu. Is the tft port indeed port number 0 and can it interfere with the display? And are there any additional steps I need to take?
This is not an easy thing to do and I am try to find my notes for you. The LCD is SPI correct. You really only have 2 serial options at this point. So, pick 2, the TFT is set to 0. That sounds like maybe the MMU2 has something crossed on the wire you need 12/24v to driver the motors and 5v for the board. Make sure your MMU2 wires line up to the right pins on the TFT connector. Make sure both the 5v and 12/24v are using the same ground.
@@ChrisRiley I was able to solve the previous problem, but a new one appeared and maybe You could help me in it. I have a Creality CR 10-S printer modified in SKR v1.3, Marlin 2.0 and a direct ekstruder and hotend based on parts of Prusa. I have set up everything: Marlin, Slicer, The printer is efficient and connects to the MMU, that is, loads the filament, captures it, loads it into the nozzle, withdraws and prints. The problem is: when I cut the test model (cube) in Slicer in two colors and I have a gcode. Printing begins, one color prints, the extruder and the entire head momentarily stop. At this point, the MMU should withdraw the material to replace and continue printing. This does not happen, does not withdraw the material, only prints, MMU does not make any attempt to withdraw and change the material but I know this motors are works. No error appears, all the time the printout flies in one color. I have already tried to do everything including the use of Your gcode in which the same happens, i.e. the MMU does not withdraw the material and does not replace it. The extruder itself withdraws the material, but the MMU engines do not work. Can the lack of an IR sensor here be that reason? If not, I really don't know what to do and I count on help.
@@bartoszwrobel9159 Ah, then no, I am not sure what it is doing in this case. Something in the tool change is broken. If you send T0 T1 commands, does the selector change?
@@BovoM8 You can make it work on a lot of boards, but it is very difficult to get right. The easiest board to use is probably a mini rambo or an einsy retro.
@@ChrisRiley ok after a week of messing around with a BLTouch i found that i can point to servo pin 27 on the creality board V2.1 how many extra pins are needed and will a servo pin do ??
@@pjmcbigguns9598 You would need a 12v/24v pin and a way to access the serial, a TX and RX pin. Only way I would now to do it would be to hack the LCD cable.
@@ChrisRiley thank you for your insight on the So if that's the case then could I use o e of the easy out chips that's used for the ender bltouch to hack the LCD cable or would it require cutting of wires And again that is for your insight on this
@@pjmcbigguns9598 I'm not sure because I can't find a good pinout for that board. I looked at the firmware, it says PIN: 8 Port: D0 RXD Input = 1 PIN: 9 Port: D1 TXD Input = 0 Those would be the 2 pins you need access to.
that's so cool! But sadly I can't buy that in my country. I need to find a way to connect more steppers to my printer!!!! maybe with a arduino mega+ramps connected to the current board somehow. i'm sure it's possible with klipper!!!! also my hyeprcube is currently a bowden for now which is an issue huammmmmmmmmmmmmm :3
@@ChrisRiley i found a salution how it is possible. but i need to change the motherboard to a SKR board and need another SKR board. then it is possible. but with the Trigorilla board its not possible as far as i know....
@15:20 I'd like to recommend the Filament Retract Bank ( www.thingiverse.com/thing:3373895 ) concept ( or it's fully 3D Printable Remixes ). I'm using it with my MMU2S equipped Original i3 MK3S and I'm VERY pleased with it compared to the shite that was shipped with the MMU2S Upgrade Kit.
@Chris Riley I am having trouble setting the Serial Port . I have a CR10- 5S Using the Creality V2.1 Board (2560).I intend using Aux 1 on the board. I Have found a Chat that seems to suggest i use Aux1 with serial 0. But i am not sure. I have tried as the video but i am getting nowhere with it. This is the Discussion that i Think may help me but i am new to Marlin and getting a bit lost. github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/10219 As soon as i make these changes to Marlin everything compiles ok but screen sticks on Marlin startup screen and will not go any further. Can i get some help with this part please. rest seems to make sense to me but struggling with com ports.
I don't know that board, but it sounds like there might be some conflict on the serial interface. This very well could be a bug in Marlin 2.0. I have heard a lot of people are having weird little issues here and there. It's not a great answer, but you might just have to wait for Marlin to level out a bit.
@ChrisRiley Yo, I didn't think you'd reply. well I'm sorta stuck I'm trying to get my filament to feed past the the sensor into my gears. My sensor sit just above my bondtech dds.
@ChrisRiley Thank you so much. which one of those would make the mmu2s continue to feed another 45mm or so past my ir sensor into my extruder gearim not using a prusa style extruder.
"Eh… maybe." is about where I would expect it to be. You're the first actual tester for this feature that I'm aware of!
I was super impressed with it, worked out really well.
@@ChrisRiley To be fair, the MMU makes it so easy! And of course it helps that Prusa Firmware is open and their code is straightforward to adapt. The "ramming" moves actually do a lot of the magic by making sure the filament tip is re-insertable. (Examine the tips of the ejected filament and tune ramming as needed for your nozzle, folks!)
As for the starting G-code, M221 should be fine. M420 S1 is generally preferred over G29 if you have a big mesh. I'll see about adding the G-code that tells the MMU what the materials are. That will make the display on the MMU more useful.
Thanks for providing a very thorough run-through. I hope this encourages others to consider the MMU2 as a single-nozzle multi-color solution. It's a great alternative to devices like the Palette+, and I can't wait to see what someone with a Very Large Bed™ does with it.
D-oh- Apparently we already have M403. So all is good to go! marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M403.html
It's not about getting it right on the first time, it's about the whole sum up of knowledge you've put together for this on the first place.
Awesome job Chris!
Well said, thank you!
Hey Chris, great video! As the person who ported the MMU2 stuff to Marlin I'm glad it's also working for others and not just for me. A short clarification: the load/ramming sequence in Configuration_adv.h is used for loading and unloading filament from the MMU2 menu. All the filament changing stuff during a print is handled via gcode. So if you have issues with the purge block tweak the multi-material settings in Prusa Slicer and not the ones in the Marlin firmware.
Hey! Thanks for all your hard work! That is great to know and thank you for the clarification. It seems to work really well.
What's disturbing is that its been about a year and no one has shown how to build a MMU from cloned parts and how to set it up on an Ender 3. Am I really going to be that person?
@@hypercube33 The MMU is cheap enough that personally I'd rather see a really well done, thorough video, adapting it to an Ender3. Direct drive conversion, SKR 1.3 firmware config, mounting to the Ender, etc.
@@mrb2917 cheap it is not compared to an ender 3 pro but I'm going to make a clone and get it working and post a video I guess.
@@hypercube33 There are clones you can buy from aliexpress. I bought one and put it on my Ender (skr Mini E3 V2). The communication is now setup thanks to the gent @revilor so for now i've gotta work on the calibration of the sequences. So far only minor issues with the clone.
A GREAT SERVICE TO THE PRINTING COMMUNITY .. YOU ARE THE PATH FINDER AT THE TIP OF THE SPEAR !
Thank you Jimmy!
Super awesome walk through Chris. Agreed, our community is amazing and Kudos also to Prusa, they always give their developments back to the community.
Thanks Spike Agreed! Opensource for the win...again and again.
Excellent video, glad you're back.
Thanks Shaun!
Fantastic Chris. Great work by all of the community members too. Cheers, JAYTEE
Thanks Jaytee!
Really cool. I was going to ask about bowden tube but I see someone else did. Ive already had my fiddling on printer quota for the year so might save for a Palette 2 instead. I'm so glad you do this stuff for us.
I totally hear you on the fiddling maximum. Happy to help!
Another great job of sharing so much information in short amount of time. Can't believe it worked the first time !
Thanks! I am there with you, I was shocked it worked at all.
So cool!
I was waiting for this feature.
Thanks a lot Chris for sharing :)
Its always easy to understand your tutorials :)
Thanks Michel!
Hi Chris, thank you for your work. Some time ago I asked you for that and it's great to get this help from you. Thanks a lot and regards from Germany
You are welcome, I am glad the info was helpful.
Finally yes! I've been waiting for this! There's another person that's currently working on making the MMU2 work with the Duet boards (Duet Wifi/Maestro etc). You should check that out too!
Sweet! Will do!
Great video! Now I need to save up a little so I can add this to my Anet E10. :-) And I'll have to get a RepKord box to set it up nicely. Chris, you've opened up a whole new realm for Multi-Material Printing! Oh, forgot to add that I can't wait to see how cheap these are going to get once the Chinese get their hands on it. I'm thinking 6 months and Creality will introduce their own MMU as an add on for the Ender 5+. Now that would be something! Large build volume, 4 colors, dissolvable supports, OMG! I think I just extruded!
LOL, I can totally see a Creality clone coming out for sure.
There was never any doubt that it would - you are the Master Chris! :-)
Thanks!
LOL, thanks Ron!
Scary when an experiment goes 100% successful the first time, lol..
always looks suspicious, that smth terrebly wrong will happen
I was really shocked it worked as well as it did.....I am in for it on the next one I am sure of it.
@@ChrisRiley hehehe,
@@ChrisRiley I am curious, are you still using this setup today, or have your reconfigured to another printer?
@@CJICantLie I have since moved on. Working on an mmu2 skr config now.
Just want to say thanks for these great videos!! Most informative and my favorite vids. Keep up the great work!!
Thanks Andrew and thanks for watching!
Nice work, Chris! Great to see it working. Next stop - Duet boards! :)
Thanks, John! There ya go....I know Scott is working on tool changer now so, maybe soon!!!
Excellent! Now non-Prusa people can feel us prusa user's MMU2 pain as well.
Maybe if it's out in the wild, somebody will fix the damn thing.
LOL, good point!
I am shocked to see so little about this multi-filament solution. I've been into 3d printing for almost 3 years now and I just found out about this gizmo today.
I'm glad it was helpful!
Awesome Video! That will help folks like me that are Prusaless do multicolored prints. Log is a Fancy Printer now!
Thanks Mike! Log is really coming up in the world! :)
Man the LOG gets around.
It surrrrre does!
Awesome idea. I have an extra MMU2 and I think I might give this a try just to see if I can get it working.
Thanks! Let us know how it goes. I subbed to your channel to make sure I don't miss updates. ;)
Log is looking really awesome here! More log vids please! At least, an after-built and some use, what you changed, build notes, etc.
Thanks! Will do, more coming up soon.
Another awesome tutorial Sir ! continued Success Chris...Happy Modding !
Thank Ron!
Thanks for the informative video. Multi color printing is a pretty interesting topic.
Thanks Dimitri!
Simply genius!
Thanks Rickie! I am so full of BBQ goodness.
Great finally meeting you in person. Good friends and good bbq hard to beat that.
As always, great job!
Thanks Sergio!
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it
Cool! you giving me the courage to try it out on an artillery sidewinder X1, bit different than the I3
Let us know how it goes. Thanks
I've been considering adding the Prusa extruder onto my CR-10 as it seems pretty easy. I did it to my other printers, and they all work really well compared to how they did previously. Would be interesting to see you tackle something similar that wasn't a Prusa clone Chris. :-)
Right on, I will see what I can do.
I guys, I would like to add the MMU to my Creality CR10S. Is it possible with the stock motherboard?
Wow, that‘s impressive
Thanks, cat, it was fun to try.
Super cool!
Thank you!
Saw a marlin mmu2s support for marlin 2.0 thread got closed. I think we're quite close and the last part is integrating the an extruder's filament sensor. If that's figured out then I think mmu2s will work on any marlin printer!
NICE! I will retest this for sure.
Hi Chris, maybe a bit late to the party here. At 10:00 you mention you dont have a filament sensor added, or thats how i heard it. How do you manage that in firmware?
In this version or Marlin they hadn't implemented the extruder filament sensor yet, it was just fire and forget. Now you can use it in Marlin just like Prusa does.
Great video, Thanks :)
Thanks for watching!
If you don't have a mk3/s style extrude how does the mmu know when the filament is in the extruder?
It's a guess at this point. You have to set the tube length on the mmu2 menu.
nice video great info
Thank you!
Been thinking about this since I watched your video I use a SKR 1.3 board. What if you made a 'Y' cable for the runout sensor on the MMU2 board to the signal pin on the SKR pin P1_28 for runout sensor? Don't think you'd need power but maybe a ground as well.
Yeah, you might be able to make that work. I don't see why it wouldn't.
@@ChrisRiley Can you help us? :joy:
I connected it to the TFT port but I've no succes :(
@@snelinternet4654 This has been one of my biggest comments, more on this soon.
MATE, YOUR IN A CLASS OF YOUR OWN!
Thank you!
Hi chris. As always really nice and helpful video. I try to put mmu2 on cr10 with skr 1.3 board. And it work. Thanks to you!
I have a question though..when printing with only one filament, does marlin support features that ask user to choose which filament user want to use (via lcd just like prusa printer)?
That's a great question and I am not sure. I know it will take which ever tool you select in the slicer, but I am not sure about the menu.
Is the MMU2 open source too? Did you try building one?
It is open source, I have thought about printing a custom one up, just haven't got around to it.
@@ChrisRiley That would be interesting.
Maybe a modified version?
(Like two filaments only, or 20)
I'd be very very interested in seeing this adapted on an Skr 1.3 on an ender 3
I think a lot of people would be, I will see what I can do.
Lately I have been thinking exactly the same thing. I have no need for an MMU on my ender but boy I like to tinker!
Maybe even build my own MMU clone. Chris you could make a LOG MMU. LOL
I could even try to make it out of wood!!!
I'm thinking to buy a mmu2 clone board from China. I don't know if anyone made that work with that board
@@leitoxweb I haven't seen a build on this board yet, but this is an opensource board, so it's probably really close to the real thing.
Your videos are awesome always, I am wondering if the CR10s Pro motherboard can connect to MMU2 through USB port, since it doesn't have extra Tx, Rx available in the board but at the same time the USB port is a UART itself.
Thanks! You might be able to make that work, but I am not sure how. You would have to hack the hardware serial frame work in someway I think.
@@ChrisRiley I was looking at the board and found that the LCD connects through serial connection at RTX/2 since I use octoprint everytime is not much a problem to disconnect it, since the RTX3 isn't wired and don't wanna take a risk at burning the board while soldering so small pins.
I know you made this video a while ago but I am wondering if the setup is still the same. I have a Prusa MK3S with a SKR 1.4Turbo and I want to add my MMU2S to it. I have not seen it done yet and wonder if it would be the same to setup?
No, it is not the same, things in Marlin have changed a lot. I hope to try a new config and video sometime soon.
@@ChrisRiley Thank you for the quick reply. I will keep watch for the update as I know many are interested.
I am curious why you didn’t just use the Prusa firmware? I was planning on swapping my board for the Einsy Rambo board Prusa uses and using their firmware.
The printer I am working with would be hard to tune actual Prusa firmware. On my machine I would have to change a few things. This was more to show the MMU2 feature of Marlin works.
Groooovy
Whenever I see Groovy with extra oooo's I always think of Duke Nukem.
Dude, you should totally see if this will do wipe in infill!!!
I totally will!
hi chris,
i wil instal a profesional firmware to my ender 3 s1, is it possibele to make this work with this firmware? and wil work this tool at a ender 3 s1 direct drive?
Hello. You would have to do a custom install of Marlin to make this work on the printer.
How cool is that
Thanks Paul!
The Mmu2s is plugging in to the port my Tft32v3 is using, anyway of getting that working again?
It's going to be hard to use both on the same serial bus.
Interesting. Do you think I could get it to run on klipper as well?
I have no clue where we would even start. It could be done, but there would be a lot of things to figure out.
A little confused. Doesn't the MMU2S come with its own board? Or is it just the clones I've look at? I use the SKR 1.3 board and would also see it working before shelling out a lot of money. TIA
It does come with its own board, but you have to interface with the printer board as well.
Hi Chris , trying to put MMU2 on a Bear using SKR Turbo 1.4 , I need a little push on Serial connection -- Pin order onboard is RST, RXo , TXo, Gnd , Npwr.. Brown , White , Green, space ,Blue .. Correct ?
Hey Dan, on the board side its brown RST, space, green RX, whiteTX, blue VCC. MMU side is the same, brown wire closes to the power connections.
@@ChrisRiley Is this for SKR 1.4 ?
@@dansteffee9759 No, this is stock, this is the MMU side. On the SKR, say left is DC in. Left to right RST brown, green RX, white TX, space, blue vcc.
Excellent video. The one major dislike that I have with the MMU is that the waste/wipe tower is so large, sometimes larger than the print object itself. BTW, can you tell me where you got the stl files for the Prusa print carriage?
Thanks! You can get the files here. www.prusa3d.com/prusa-i3-printable-parts/
Thanks for the info. Is there any way to minimize the waste towers?
@@tazdrum73 At this time the only things you can do it wipe into infill and create objects to wipe into. These can be set up in Prusa Slicer.
What's the name of printer that you are using in this movie? Is that original prusa or prusa clone?
This is a Prusa MK2 clone, it has some MK3S parts on the extruder.
I'm trying to do this on a SKR1.4 Turbo board and i'm getting an pins error? #Serial port pins (2) conflict with e stepper pins. Any help is appreciated. Thank You in Advance.
Yes, You need to use -1 or 0.
@@ChrisRiley thanks I did and my skr board is not communicating with the mmu? Am I supposed to hook it up to the tft pins or the I2C pins? Thanks for the help again
@@jere2300able It will go on the TFT pins, make sure both MMU and printer share the same ground.
Do you guys think this would also work on a bowden setup? Guess the E-Steps Calibration has to be even more on point then..
I think it can be done, but it's going to take some fiddling to get it to work.
Can I connect it to a mks robin nano/flying bear reborn motherboard?
You might be able to use the wifi header, but it's going to take some tricky programing to get it to work.
Would this work for a Anycubic Kobra Go?
I think it can but i have trouble understanding how the MMU would connect to my printer,
would it use the filament runout sensor as guide reference?
It could work if there are some RX and TX pins available. The tricky part is the runout sensor. It needs to be very close to where the filament feeds in to work correctly.
@@ChrisRileyI was thinking of this as well, but I'm still trying to figure out how the MMMu would know when to changes colours if I cant connect to the printer directly.
been wanting to try this on my sidewinder I have the hermera hotend on it now and a. removeable spring bed I'd really just be more interested in 2 or 3 color prints more than anything due to customer parts I mainly print ABS
It fiddley, but it is possible. Not sure it's worth the headache. ;)
Chris Riley no chance this would ever work on the Duet RepRap FW?
it would be something that RRF would need to add support for. There are additional serial pins on duet boards. Since Marlin code for MMU2 is open source, if you know what you're doing adding support for it in RRF would not be hard.
Not sure about RR, but Marlin has tool changer in the works. I think we will see the merge soon.
is it possible to use mmu2s with bowden setup?
It is, but it's going to take a lot of tinkering to get it working with sensors and all that.
@@ChrisRiley thank you very much for the response. I love your videos
How did you change the color of your lcd? is that something you did in settings or did you buy an lcd like this?
That is a black ans white screen from Printed Solid. They are made by LDO.
@@ChrisRiley I see. Your printer is looking really good though. I love the blue and that screen works so well with it all.
Thanks!
I'm trying to set an MMU2s up on my (non-original) i3 on a MKS Gen board.
When I upload the firmware leaving the serial port settings on default, the LCD screen doesn't work anymore. What could cause that?
I've tried using serial port 3 and connecting the TX/RX cables to Ymin/Ymax, which doesn't interfere with the screen, but the MMU2 menu item does nothing. :/
It sounds like you have a UART conflict. Is this a 32 bit board?
@@ChrisRiley Sorry, I never got a notification of a reply. :<
The MKS Gen is an 8 bit board, basically just one of those RAMPS based chinese boards. I've been trying all the combinations of setting MMU2_SERIAL, INTERNAL_SERIAL_PORT and SERIAL_PORT_2 I can think of, and even had my friend test my MMU2 board on his original prusa to confirm that it is indeed working.
I still can't get it to communicate with my MKS Gen though, no matter what I try.
I will set up a spare RAMPS board from scratch and see if I can get any further on that.
@@Akegata42 All I can think of is maybe there is a short on the board. If should work on Aux 1 on pretty much any board.
@@ChrisRiley So I've done a lot of testing now, with two different MKS Gen boards and a RAMPS. The MMU2 works fine on the RAMPS, on all serial ports.
On the MKS Gens it does work on serial 2, but that of course makes it impossible to use the LCD.
It does not work on MKS Gen when connected to serial 1/3 on the Y/Z-pins, so I suspect that the MKS Gen doesn't actually have serial on those ports.
I have a SKR 1.3 on the way, so I'm going to replace the MKS Gen anyway on that printer, hopefully that works better.
Thanks for the answers. :)
How can I disable the IR sensor? I can't get filament to load.
In Marlin it won't be enabled by default.
@@ChrisRiley so I burned out a tmc2130, drive on the board. Replace it with a good one from a stepper driver and it all works now.
@@The_Hudson_Workshop Nice!
Great video. Thanks for sharing. Can it be made to work with the Duet2?
If it can, I am not sure how. RepRap doesn't currently support it.
How would the setup go for the MKS Gen L board? Same as the RAMPS?
Yep, just like RAMPS.
M221 tells the printer what extrusion multiplier should it set depending on a layer height, not crash prevention :P
You're right I watched it back, I was thinking of the line in the end gcode that keeps if from topping out z.
@@ChrisRiley yup, it's in there too 😁
2 qestions:
How to clone the MMU2?
I got a dual (independant) extruder printer. Is it possible to fit 2 MMUs on one printer to get a range of 10 colors?? :D
need 2 serial ports, I would think it's doable, but would require some firmware tweaks.
Yeah, I think you could do it, but it would take some tweaking.
you coud also mod the MMu do more materials but then you woud need to rework the SMMu firmware
there are MMU2 clones on aliexpress but idk how good they are. they are around 150USD
@@turtledude2924 I think I am going to see if I can get RAMPS to work for one.
You made that look WAY too easy. Shame the buy-in is so steep. More than my printer w/ its upgrades.
Thanks man! I need to add up what the build your own costs.
@@ChrisRiley I saw a bunch of options on Ali...... got confused easily as to what was/wasn't included. Still pricey. But as they say, when you play you pay.
This might be an odd question, but does anybody know where to find the insert nut used to retain the pneumatic fitting on the filament selector? I can't seem to find that specific insert anywhere. Even hardware kits that you find people selling for the mmu2s omit that one specific part. The reason I am looking for it is because I enjoy projects and decided to build an mmu2s from the ground up, sourcing the parts myself. I have found literally everything else that I need to build this thing except for that one little brass fixture. Really the only reason I wanted to find the specific one used by Prusa was just so I didn't have to take the time to modify the 3D model to accommodate a different insert nut, but I have spent so much time looking for it at this point that I may as well have just modified the f****** model!
I think this is the part you are looking for. www.theinsertcompany.com/brass_multi_micro_inserts_for_plastic.php
Just use one alternative without insert. www.thingiverse.com/thing:4646404
@@ChrisRiley Thanks Chris, appreciate the reply. I came across that site in my travels but assumed they didn't deal in small quantities because they require to be contacted for pricing. I admit I made an assumption and didn't actually bother to contact them though.
@@MrFixel112 I'm thinking you're probably right, a modified model might be the most practical approach.
Hey out of curiosity has anyone tried this on an skr v1.4 turbo? I currently have one on my mk3s and can't figure out where to plug the connector into. I have a tft 35 v3.0 so I can't use the tft port and both my serial ports are being used. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also can I run the power cable straight to the psu? Thanks!
It would need to go on the TFT pins, it would be really challenging to run both on one bus. Yes, you can power it straight from the PSU.
@@ChrisRiley thank you for the response. Would it be more worth it to just place it on another prusa with the stock einsy board? Or do you think it would be better on the skr v1.4?
@@zachyonk1 The stock prusa board would probably be best.
@@ChrisRiley awesome, thank you!
Can I use a non-Prusa Filament sensor?
Yes, at this time you can use whichever one you want. The MMU2 doesn't take any reading from it. M600 should work the same for your printer though.
@Chris Riley did you have some data on the compatibility with MMU clone?
I don't, but it is opensource so I am guessing the clones are probably pretty good.
@Chris Riley thanks for your answer. I use a MKS 1.4 gen as main controller, I read somewhere on internet that MMU or Clone works on RAMPS card and the MKS 1.4 is based on a RAMPS project. In the future I'll buy a MMU clone for some tests. I will keep you updated on the results.
@@gianluigigigante5909 Yep, MKS 1.4 should work just like RAMPS, you should be all set.
Does this also works on bowden extruders like from my CR10S?
It would be pretty tricky to get it to work on a Bowden extruder. Not sure how it would work.
Why is there nothing like that on the internet?
Can someone tell me if that will work on a CR-10 motherboard?
Not enough open pins on the Creality boards. Also, not sure the memory would be able to handle the features.
I have set this up with my Ender 3 using various peoples config files and increased the retraction, but my prints are covered in very fine stringing and I have not been able to solve this yet------ Sorry I have just replied to the wrong video!!!!!!!!!!!! I had multiple videos open
Are you talking about the Duet?
@@ChrisRiley Yes and today I figured out what the problem was, It was my filament I was using Creality filaments, I changed to some Feesculpt filaments and all is as it should be.
@@AndrewAHayes Great!
I'm not able to use the Aux 1 pins on my Skr 1.3 board. I'm planning to use my TFT pins instead, and outside of moving the connector pins to the right spots, are there any other steps I need to take so it'll still work?
The only thing you should need to do is change that second serial port.
@@ChrisRiley Into what? I can't get it working :(
@@snelinternet4654 Serial 1 should be 0-second serial can be -1. more to come on this.
@@ChrisRiley Thank you, I'll try it when I'm home. Can we expect a video about it soon?
@@snelinternet4654 I am still testing it, but hopefully soon.
would this work at a ender 3 s1
I don't know anything about the S1. I know it won't work right out of the box, you would have to have UART pins available, flash an updated version or Marlin and probably a direct drive extruder setup. They are a lot of work to get going.
hey chris im trying to get the mmu2s working on my skrv1.4 and when i compile the firmware i get errors and im confused as how to work out what servo pin to define, is there any chance you can hope on discord with me later, my discord is penguino, i have you added, ill message you on discord this too. thanks in advance.
Hey, I am not sure how it works with the newer Marlin version. I am going to try this again very soon.
Does this work on ender3 v2?
It would be really hard to get it working on a Bowden printer. I would look at the 3d chameleon.
I have a question regarding the compatibility of this upgrade with octoprint. Is the MMU controlled by normal gcode? If yes as far as i understand, it should work with the pi just feeding it to the board. If it runs diffrent, please lemme know, because then the upgrade wouldnt be feasable
It is controlled with just regular G Code
Wanted to give an update after watching this video. I purchased a used MMU2S off eBay for about the price of a clone. I have an Ender 3 Pro with the SKR 1.3 board. I have it working and works well. there are two quirks which are probably related to the serial port. The firs is when the machine is powered on, the machine boots twice. The second, is I do not get status update on my LCD screen. They stop as soon as the hotend reached temp and bed leveling. Still getting status updates on Octoprint, so no biggy. Also I used the TFT port just above the serial port. That maybe the reason or I'm using the right serial port in Marlin 2.0. Can't seem to find any answers regarding the port number designation.
Hi, how did you get it to work with the internal serial port? What port did you use?
@@NATY1110 #define SERIAL_PORT -1
/**
* Select a secondary serial port on the board to use for communication with the host.
* This allows the connection of wireless adapters (for instance) to non-default port pins.
* Serial port -1 is the USB emulated serial port, if available.
*
* :[-1, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7]
*/
//#define SERIAL_PORT_2 -1
#if ENABLED(PRUSA_MMU2)
// Serial port used for communication with MMU2.
// For AVR enable the UART port used for the MMU. (e.g., internalSerial)
// For 32-bit boards check your HAL for available serial ports. (e.g., Serial2)
//#define INTERNAL_SERIAL_PORT 2
//#define MMU2_SERIAL internalSerial
#define MMU2_SERIAL Serial
@@thomasdukes7698 that worked great thanks alot champ!
@@NATY1110 No problem! Thank Chris!! Took a couple days playing with the serial ports. May not be exactly right, but it works.
Very nice! Thanks for giving us all this info, I am going to try and get a video out for this.
Do you happen to know why my mk3s, mmu2s can’t print pla? I was only successful at pla when I fed the filament directly to the extruder, if the filament is fed through the mmu2s, the filament would seem to jam up in the hotend.
SongLi Moey mine works
Almost has to be dragging on the idler barrel. Make sure the 2 barrel screws are nice and tight.
Chris Riley Oh yeah, I just checked, my idler has melted out of position so I will need to re print it. But thanks!
Mark Stemmett did you have to tune the loading and unloading parameters?
Has anyone managed to get this working on a SKR 1.2 E3 Mini already?
I haven't yet, still working on it.
Hi. I'm in need of some advice. I'm helping a friend add a prusa mmu2 to his cr-10s. His using the skr1.3 board with tmc 2130 drivers and the stock cr-10 display. So the mmu is connected to the tft port (aux1) and the part that we have a problem with is enabling a serial port for the skr in marlin 2.0. I've read somewhere that the tft port is apparently identified as serial port 0. So in config.h I defined SERIAL_PORT_2 as 0 and later in configuration advanced settings I set the mmu serial to SERIAL_PORT_2. And the weird thing is that when we turn the printer on configured as such, the display won't switch on and from what we can tell the skr doesn't boot up properly. However when we unplug the mmu for booting and then plug it back in, the printer works. The mmu just doesn't. So we believe the display somehow interferes with the mmu. I'm not an expert but aren't those displays using SPI to communicate? SPI and Serial are two separate interfaces so they shouldn't influence each other right? Anyways. I'm not sure at this point where the problem exactly lays. The thing I'm not sure about is enabling the secondary serial in marlin for the skr 1.3. I know how to do it for a regular AVR boards, it's the skr I know nothing about. In general. How do I set it up to work with any serial device? Not necessarily the mmu. Is the tft port indeed port number 0 and can it interfere with the display? And are there any additional steps I need to take?
This is not an easy thing to do and I am try to find my notes for you. The LCD is SPI correct. You really only have 2 serial options at this point. So, pick 2, the TFT is set to 0. That sounds like maybe the MMU2 has something crossed on the wire you need 12/24v to driver the motors and 5v for the board. Make sure your MMU2 wires line up to the right pins on the TFT connector. Make sure both the 5v and 12/24v are using the same ground.
@@ChrisRiley
I was able to solve the previous problem, but a new one appeared and maybe You could help me in it. I have a Creality CR 10-S printer modified in SKR v1.3, Marlin 2.0 and a direct ekstruder and hotend based on parts of Prusa.
I have set up everything: Marlin, Slicer, The printer is efficient and connects to the MMU, that is, loads the filament, captures it, loads it into the nozzle, withdraws and prints.
The problem is: when I cut the test model (cube) in Slicer in two colors and I have a gcode. Printing begins, one color prints, the extruder and the entire head momentarily stop. At this point, the MMU should withdraw the material to replace and continue printing. This does not happen, does not withdraw the material, only prints, MMU does not make any attempt to withdraw and change the material but I know this motors are works. No error appears, all the time the printout flies in one color. I have already tried to do everything including the use of Your gcode in which the same happens, i.e. the MMU does not withdraw the material and does not replace it. The extruder itself withdraws the material, but the MMU engines do not work. Can the lack of an IR sensor here be that reason? If not, I really don't know what to do and I count on help.
@@bartoszwrobel9159 If you are using the newest version of Marlin then it is probably waiting on signal from the IR sensor.
@@ChrisRiley
Okay. But in Marlin I have this function turned off. I should uncomment it in this case and try to connect the sensor?
@@bartoszwrobel9159 Ah, then no, I am not sure what it is doing in this case. Something in the tool change is broken. If you send T0 T1 commands, does the selector change?
can someone confirm if this works with the GT2560 A board?
That board doesn't have any serial pins to use for this.
@@ChrisRiley can you recommend a board i could use as an upgrade/replacement for my prusa clone so i can run the mmu2
@@BovoM8 You can make it work on a lot of boards, but it is very difficult to get right. The easiest board to use is probably a mini rambo or an einsy retro.
So what do I need to do for an Ender 3
You would need another board I am afraid. There are not open serial pins on the stock board.
very nice would like to see this set up on a cr-10s
Thanks! I am not sure what board that one uses. A lot of the Creality stuff doesn't have enough open pins.
@@ChrisRiley ok after a week of messing around with a BLTouch i found that i can point to servo pin 27 on the creality board V2.1
how many extra pins are needed and will a servo pin do ??
@@pjmcbigguns9598 You would need a 12v/24v pin and a way to access the serial, a TX and RX pin. Only way I would now to do it would be to hack the LCD cable.
@@ChrisRiley thank you for your insight on the
So if that's the case then could I use o e of the easy out chips that's used for the ender bltouch to hack the LCD cable or would it require cutting of wires
And again that is for your insight on this
@@pjmcbigguns9598 I'm not sure because I can't find a good pinout for that board. I looked at the firmware, it says
PIN: 8 Port: D0 RXD Input = 1
PIN: 9 Port: D1 TXD Input = 0
Those would be the 2 pins you need access to.
that's so cool! But sadly I can't buy that in my country. I need to find a way to connect more steppers to my printer!!!! maybe with a arduino mega+ramps connected to the current board somehow.
i'm sure it's possible with klipper!!!! also my hyeprcube is currently a bowden for now which is an issue huammmmmmmmmmmmmm :3
Yes, I am sure you can get that working in Klipper.
@@ChrisRiley yeah! just a new board purely for the stepper pins :) would be messy and cost a bit :3 I guess i'll see what happens in the future!
Is it ender 2 compatible
Unfortunately, no, there are not serial connection pins available.
so your saying i can use 1.4 ramps board with MMU2S
Yes sir! You should be able to get it to work.
@@ChrisRiley ..that's mad really
You should 3d print your own mmu2 next time.
Great idea! I just might try to recreate one.
It would be nice for klipper!
Agreed, that would be a nice feature add.
Has someone done this to a Anycubic Chiron ? :/
Not that I know of.
@@ChrisRiley i found a salution how it is possible. but i need to change the motherboard to a SKR board and need another SKR board. then it is possible. but with the Trigorilla board its not possible as far as i know....
ender 3 users: *d a n c e*
I am not sure what this means, but i'm for it!
@15:20 I'd like to recommend the Filament Retract Bank ( www.thingiverse.com/thing:3373895 ) concept ( or it's fully 3D Printable Remixes ).
I'm using it with my MMU2S equipped Original i3 MK3S and I'm VERY pleased with it compared to the shite that was shipped with the MMU2S Upgrade Kit.
Nice! I like that setup.
@Chris Riley I am having trouble setting the Serial Port . I have a CR10- 5S Using the Creality V2.1 Board (2560).I intend using Aux 1 on the board. I Have found a Chat that seems to suggest i use Aux1 with serial 0. But i am not sure. I have tried as the video but i am getting nowhere with it.
This is the Discussion that i Think may help me but i am new to Marlin and getting a bit lost. github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/10219
As soon as i make these changes to Marlin everything compiles ok but screen sticks on Marlin startup screen and will not go any further.
Can i get some help with this part please. rest seems to make sense to me but struggling with com ports.
I don't know that board, but it sounds like there might be some conflict on the serial interface. This very well could be a bug in Marlin 2.0. I have heard a lot of people are having weird little issues here and there. It's not a great answer, but you might just have to wait for Marlin to level out a bit.
Chris Riley thanks . I will keep trying the marlin bug fix hopefully something will change.
Waiting for someone to do a diy mmu....
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3431438
Yep, they are out there.
@@jonaskrug92 sweet. Thank you
@@ChrisRiley I had looked to no avail.
I just hook this up for my cr10s5 im on to tuning.
Nice! Hopefully it's going well.
@ChrisRiley Yo, I didn't think you'd reply. well I'm sorta stuck I'm trying to get my filament to feed past the the sensor into my gears. My sensor sit just above my bondtech dds.
@@user-qv1dp2xh5q All of that will be controlled here.
#if HAS_PRUSA_MMU2S
#define MMU2_C0_RETRY 5 // Number of retries (total time = timeout*retries)
#define MMU2_CAN_LOAD_FEEDRATE 800 // (mm/min)
#define MMU2_CAN_LOAD_SEQUENCE \
{ 0.1, MMU2_CAN_LOAD_FEEDRATE }, \
{ 60.0, MMU2_CAN_LOAD_FEEDRATE }, \
{ -52.0, MMU2_CAN_LOAD_FEEDRATE }
#define MMU2_CAN_LOAD_RETRACT 6.0 // (mm) Keep under the distance between Load Sequence values
#define MMU2_CAN_LOAD_DEVIATION 0.8 // (mm) Acceptable deviation
#define MMU2_CAN_LOAD_INCREMENT 0.2 // (mm) To reuse within MMU2 module
#define MMU2_CAN_LOAD_INCREMENT_SEQUENCE \
{ -MMU2_CAN_LOAD_INCREMENT, MMU2_CAN_LOAD_FEEDRATE }
// Continue unloading if sensor detects filament after the initial unload move
//#define MMU_IR_UNLOAD_MOVE
#else
@ChrisRiley Thank you so much. which one of those would make the mmu2s continue to feed another 45mm or so past my ir sensor into my extruder gearim not using a prusa style extruder.
@@ChrisRiley I haven't gotten much help in the diy mmu2s Facebook page.