Lol Mads you crack me up.. "repairs, fixed and improvements". You are too modest. How about I am a boat God redoing an entire boat to make it awesome! You could say now down to me, but again you are too modest. You are an amazing self reliant, hard working and funny individual. Thanks for teaching and taking us along on your amazing journey. You really should set up an Amazon "wishlist" if that's an option. I know many of us would love to show some love that are not Patron types🙂🙂
I´m not a sailor. I´m not a DIY-guy. But I am strangely satisfied every time I have seen one of your videos. I belive it´s due to your pedagogical skills! And your enthusiasm for the project. It is very entertaining to hear your explanations on why you do stuff and it´s also very enjoyable to understand how much time you must have put down in thinking and planning all the different steps in your refitting of Athena. Thank you for your efforts!
Mads, I have the same windless as this and .05 cents worth of free advise, remove the cover and remove the motor and cover the shaft with anti seize. Mine was new and after 2 years the motor stopped going one direction, a wire broke in the motor but when I went to get motor rebuilt the shaft was seized in the gearbox. So now it is part of my maintenance schedule to recover the shaft in anti seize so it is repairable.
On your pullpit, add a stanless loop or two for parking halyards, esp spinaker halyard. And build in a (hinged) bow seat so under sail you can sit with your toes dangling and watch the dolphins :-)
DIY fun? Yeah, fun for us anyway. For you, the energizer bunny of boat refit videos, maybe not (always) so much. Your drive and sticktoitivness is beyond admirable.
Please Mads I can forgive the pronunciation of Tigress but Aluminium as a British Chemist that really grinds, just remember to spell sulphur correctly! The stainless looks fantastic some great lateral thinking on the stern.
A plinth or spacer to raise the windlass up above the deck will minimize the amount of greenwater sloshing around on the foredeck going down into the chain locker through the hole that the chain enters below the gypsy. The higher the better. Even in coastal waterways we are often burying the anchor and drawing dozens if not hundreds of gallons of greenwaters on deck. It often happens when clueless motorboats (that is redundant, I know) wake you as they go by. This is not just occasionally, but sometimes multiple times a day. Offshore in more rough conditions, having greenwater sloshing around on the foredeck all around the windlass is just the way it is. Raise that windlass up a few centimeters and minimize the water going down into the chain locker.
You usually find that once you start a job, another two or three are involved to finish it, and it just escalates from there...lol Great job on the polishing, keep up the good work.... Jack n Steve. 🐶😎
Re. your experience with the too-short bolts on the track and the accompanying waste of time, can I just say: I feel your pain! The fact that a careful guy like you can do this makes me feel better when I do something similar! Just one of the many benefits of this channel. :-)
Nice work on the windlass Mads. Notice you have to get to the chain locker via the forward cabin to access the bitter end. That may be an issue where you have an emergency and have the need to ditch your anchor and chain - for instance if the wind shifts, you find yourself on a nasty lee shore and your anchor is stuck in rocks. You could tie a line long enough to the bitter end, so when it comes to the end of the chain, it comes out of the hole in the deck so you can cut it off and let your chain and anchor drop overboard (don't forget to tie a long line and float on the end so you can retrieve it in calmer conditions).
Mads - I just read a woodworking tip to make sanding belts last longer. Put fiberglass backing tape on the back of the belt. Don't know if that tip will help you or not but thought I would pass it on.
Don't forget to add a forward facing polorized camera to to top of the mast. Very helpful when negotiating tight passages. Nothing better than time spent polishing your pipe, so great when it's done. CHEERS Steve h.
In the end, you will be glad you decided to go ahead and polish everything that you have. You will be able to say "I did all of that myself" and it came out looking top notch!
MADS!!! Put the two flanged wheels on the sander in the chuck of the lathe and delete the flanges, then crown the wheels just enough so the belts track properly (likely less than 3 mm at the ends). The flanges are not the right thing to keep the belt tracking.
As a professional metal finisher, think in term of spiffy orthopedic devices, yes, crown the pullies/idlers and they will track true. The issue is NOT with the belts.
Who designs a tool with such a defect?! There must be an alignment adjustment. Perhaps the thing was dropped at some point or maybe Mads hasn’t been warned to stay away from Harbor Freight
Obstacles to progress, lots of mini projects held up by supply issues and the arrival date of the ‘boss’ looms ever nearer - cue the tension building soundtrack.🤣👍😀⛵️
There are aluminum socket head cap screws and hex head machine screws. It's also possible to use plastic headed bushings to isolate stainless fasteners from the aluminum housing. BTW - you are amazing.
I watched a couple of your first videos on Oblix. Not that they were bad - actually far better than I can do but, your screen presence has evolved quite nicely. Thank you for all the videos you have shared.
Mads, with that much alternator wattage I would consider the addition of a good espresso machine which has the additional benefits of instant hot water and a steamer. Fluffy steamed eggs in 30 seconds. Quick soup and ramen. Leftovers reheated and hydrated. No pan cleanup. That’s correct, I wouldn’t have a microwave in my galley.
@Mads! Before crossing the Atlantic you must arrive to the Canary Islands. I've been seeing you all this years, and learn a lot from you to restore my powerboat. So, I must say that you have a friend here in Tenerife!! Best regards (sorry for my crappy English!
Time to consider how to rig a gennaker. The gennaker lines mustn't get in the way of the bow nav light. You might consider separate nav lights on the sides rather than a single one right on the bow. Even if the wattage of the new alternator is 4400W you can't count on getting half the amperage out of it: heat dissipation is the problem. Heat generation is proportional to the square if the current, and if you compare the two housings you'll note that they look very similar and it is not obvious how the new alternator may cope with the additional heat generated. You could try to install a tubing with a fan that funnels fresh air from the outside directly on the alt casing. Or you upgrade to a water-cooled professional 24V truck alternator. These can cope with the heat.
Always leave a like but not always a comment. Mads, you are the most prolific provider of spiffy content on rebuilding a boat. You want past a 'refit' about 300 tasks ago. Thank you for making Sundays the day to sit down and relax.
Pulpit? Now that's a strange name. We call it Bugkorb. Bowbasket. Because it's at bow and somewhat serves the function of a basket by holding you inside the boat.
The polished arch was worth the work it didn't take me long at all. Being polished 316 stainless won't oxidize at all well at least less than the bead blast would. I still can't wait for the electronics just the mention of a forward facing camera got me excited to see the all the tech when your finished. Thanks for the great video..
I realize it's very petty, but 'irregardless' is one of my language pet peeves, mainly because I made the same mistake for years before someone was kind enough to correct me.
Although the word irregardless constitutes a double negative, the word is correct american English and can be used interchangeably with regardless. The word first appeared in print in 1795 and was first taken up by dictionaries in 1912. (The controversy surrounding the usage, stems from the constituents of the word, that would logically have given the word the meaning; "in regard to" making it a antonym rather than a synonym).
To optimize drive belt and alternator life, I would strongly recommend that you adjust, via the regulator, the output from 100% to 75-85% of total amps output. Also a ramped startup of output will assist starting. Your alternator will run cooler, your belt will last longer and charge time will not noticeably be affected.
For what it's worth, I call mine a "teegress." Also, the extra arch to be a dinghy hoist is a great idea. A lot of Lagoon and Leopard cats use the same idea, and I think, wait, well, I think it's "spiffy."
Gosh, we're getting technical. Engine alternator - fit the pair, one for house bank and one for engine start battery. - Volvo do a kit based on a Mastervolt setup. A separate engine battery will get you out of trouble in the long run. The aluminium windless is no problem, I would have gone for stainless, but plastic sleeves and washers, like the engine, will prevent galvanic corrosion. The gypsy will be stainless - use loads of copper slip here to preserve it and the clutch. Polishing the stainless arch is a good move and make it less prone to corrosion . I don't understand why you are not using traditional polishing mops and soaps? These "melt" away weld burrs etc and the mirror finish is to die for. Make sure the gypsy on the windlass is compatible with your chain size! Chain counter is priceless and a big boat asset. Stainless (318) chain is expensive but will last the life of the boat if looked after and flakes so easily into the chain locker - a great asset. Ultra stainless anchor, I think you already have this. Navigation lights, don't muck about and go for Lopolight, they will also last the life of the boat and have the best range. They are also nice and compact and completely waterproof. Sorry if this sounds a bit pushy but with what you've done so far you want the very best with these items... Great video as usual Mads, my Sunday night fix!!
You are AWESOME! Nothing gets your down and you battle forward with your projects like a special forces trooper. Keep it up brother. You can see the finish line now and know that soon you will have the additional 2 hands on deck for help and make the time oh so much more fun for you. Cheers from Mexico!!!
Just my opinion. You are doing a great job polishing the stainless steel. After you install everything and on a sunny day at different angles you are going to temporary blind someone or yourself from the reflection. Though at night it will reflect light pretty dang spiffy. Maybe a PVC or PEX washer between the bolt head and the windless down through the deck. Might be possible to use a 1/4 to 1/2 inch in diameter tube to surround the bolt so nothing will be touching metal to metal.
I've heard it said many times that projects follow the 80/20 rule. 80% of the outputs are produced in the last 20% of the project. Seems like its true! Great progress Mads
Mads, I'm sure you've got this covered, but... The Sicomin expanding epoxy foam won't cure fully unless it gets a post cure of at at least 6 hours at 40 degrees C. I did an experiment to test this. It expands OK, but then just stays goopy without the post-cure. Cheers, Paul
Quality work. I recommend to keep your boat at San Pedro I live in LA and much easier to liveaboard there. Check Holiday Harbor San Pedro when you get to LA.
Great progress Mads... Don't worry about your pronunciation, your English is amazing!! Also, how different people say words is part of the magic of language.... AAAAAnnnnnd with American English they pronounce everything wrong anyway... ;-)
41 days Mads, Ohh dear.. Who needs sleep anyway :D.. I really like the stainless, especially the bow pulpit, it looks agressive and fitting for a Warrior.
It looked like the windlass came with black "isolation" bushings. I suspect that in time the salt water will find it's way under the pad and create a ...salt...bridge.
@@honeybadgerisme I worked on a project that relied on structural adhesives for passenger securements in vehicles. I tested a range of products and Sikaflex was the high-water mark. Unfortunately it's strength relied on the use of a primer that makes one's eyes bleed. There's a similar product called (Henkel) Locktite 5572 that generates several hundred psi of grip strength, though the cured material isn't as elastic (which may be a benefit in many applications). It is more forgiving with site preparation and it doesn't require the Chernobyl-grade primer.
I want to post a very insightful and funny comment that helps everybody, but frankly I got nothing. The videos and your humour are still on point, though. Keep up the great work.
"Common Grades of Monel Bolts Monel 400 Monel 400, UNS N04400 (QQ-N-281), is a nickel-copper alloy with high strength and excellent corrosion resistance in a range of media including sea water, hydrofluoric acid, sulfuric acid, and alkalies. Monel 400 is commonly in marine engineering, chemical and hydrocarbon processing applications."
OH NO! A remote wireless controller for the windlass???? I had one and HAD is the key word. The lag between pushing releasing the buttons was enough to jam up the windlass on raising the anchor. And the chain counter......paint the chain with meter markings.
Rather than just “living with” bi-metal corrosion, you could isolate the stainless bolts from the aluminum housing. One way to do that is by using HDPE washers.
Do you not think that building a very strong pulpit might backfire if you bump into something with it (like the previous owner did). Something has to give and you don’t want it to be the foredeck.
If you go through a lock just be wary you don't hit the side with the new pulpit if it's that strong it could rip the front of the boat off! I got caught in vortex in a lock once and ended up with quite a glancing blow on one side to the pulpit. The pulpit bent rather than anything else, so it acted like a crumple zone.
Hello. Just a comment about my windlass install fiasco. I bought a brand new Lofrans Cayman 88 windlass for my Island Packet. This was fresh from the distributor in the US. It replaced an existing Lofrans so the install was fairly easy. I had to leave the boat for several months as I live in Switzerland and the boat was in Florida. Thunderstorms are common in Florida with heavy rains. In short, the case for the windlass was not properly sealed allowing rain water to penetrate inside. This completed rusted the motor making the windlass inoperable. Therefore, I suggest making sure the case is completely watertight. I think your model is similar in appearance to mine. There are only 4 bolts securing the 2 parts of the case. With mine, the gasket between the 2 case half’s was twisted making a watertight seal impossible but difficult to see. Just my experience. Hope it’s not your problem.
Thank you for this! We’ve got a cayman on order about to arrive and install. Heavy rains are common here on the west coast of Canada, so I appreciate this feedback!
Another great video! Are you certain the epoxy covering the inside of the chain hole is sufficient with a chain bouncing around in there? Perhaps epoxying a bit of pipe in there might add protection to your much beloved core. Also, out of experience, those winches don't always come with oil inside. Don't forget to fill it up before using.
Sailing Monsoon is this cement boat guy? If so cool I will subscribe and the one I bought did not weird they snap so easy they are expensive here in Canada
Are you considering using bifacial solar panels? They should be optimal for northern climates and light reflecting off the water surface. Will Prowse is testing them on his channel
I think you are getting very close to completing
the ultimate cruiser! So impressed with all the thought in design and craftsmanship!
I wait every week to watch to the end and hear "See Youuuuuu!"
We all know the real reason to finish on Saturday was to watch the Eurovision Song Contest! :) :)
Lol Mads you crack me up.. "repairs, fixed and improvements". You are too modest. How about I am a boat God redoing an entire boat to make it awesome! You could say now down to me, but again you are too modest. You are an amazing self reliant, hard working and funny individual. Thanks for teaching and taking us along on your amazing journey. You really should set up an Amazon "wishlist" if that's an option. I know many of us would love to show some love that are not Patron types🙂🙂
Man, years later and I still never get tired of your videos! Almost makes me ready to go do "oh glorious sanding" on my own boat! Almost...
Best watch another video first. That’s what I’m doing.
Still the "BEST" refit video on You Tube. Thanks and "See Youuuu".
Your patience is stuff legends are made of...
I wouldn't say "wonky" but "futzy" near the beginning of the video. Congratulation on your progress.
I´m not a sailor. I´m not a DIY-guy. But I am strangely satisfied every time I have seen one of your videos. I belive it´s due to your pedagogical skills! And your enthusiasm for the project. It is very entertaining to hear your explanations on why you do stuff and it´s also very enjoyable to understand how much time you must have put down in thinking and planning all the different steps in your refitting of Athena. Thank you for your efforts!
Mads, I have the same windless as this and .05 cents worth of free advise, remove the cover and remove the motor and cover the shaft with anti seize. Mine was new and after 2 years the motor stopped going one direction, a wire broke in the motor but when I went to get motor rebuilt the shaft was seized in the gearbox. So now it is part of my maintenance schedule to recover the shaft in anti seize so it is repairable.
On your pullpit, add a stanless loop or two for parking halyards, esp spinaker halyard. And build in a (hinged) bow seat so under sail you can sit with your toes dangling and watch the dolphins :-)
Polishing is the new sanding. O'glorious polishing
DIY fun? Yeah, fun for us anyway. For you, the energizer bunny of boat refit videos, maybe not (always) so much. Your drive and sticktoitivness is beyond admirable.
"Comfort of the chain locker" yeah, right. So much comfort there. ;-)
Please Mads I can forgive the pronunciation of Tigress but Aluminium as a British Chemist that really grinds, just remember to spell sulphur correctly! The stainless looks fantastic some great lateral thinking on the stern.
"Davy called the new metal alumium, then renamed it aluminum" - Chemicool
A plinth or spacer to raise the windlass up above the deck will minimize the amount of greenwater sloshing around on the foredeck going down into the chain locker through the hole that the chain enters below the gypsy. The higher the better.
Even in coastal waterways we are often burying the anchor and drawing dozens if not hundreds of gallons of greenwaters on deck. It often happens when clueless motorboats (that is redundant, I know) wake you as they go by. This is not just occasionally, but sometimes multiple times a day.
Offshore in more rough conditions, having greenwater sloshing around on the foredeck all around the windlass is just the way it is. Raise that windlass up a few centimeters and minimize the water going down into the chain locker.
You usually find that once you start a job, another two or three are involved to finish it, and it just escalates from there...lol
Great job on the polishing, keep up the good work.... Jack n Steve. 🐶😎
Re. your experience with the too-short bolts on the track and the accompanying waste of time, can I just say: I feel your pain! The fact that a careful guy like you can do this makes me feel better when I do something similar! Just one of the many benefits of this channel. :-)
Nice work on the windlass Mads. Notice you have to get to the chain locker via the forward cabin to access the bitter end. That may be an issue where you have an emergency and have the need to ditch your anchor and chain - for instance if the wind shifts, you find yourself on a nasty lee shore and your anchor is stuck in rocks. You could tie a line long enough to the bitter end, so when it comes to the end of the chain, it comes out of the hole in the deck so you can cut it off and let your chain and anchor drop overboard (don't forget to tie a long line and float on the end so you can retrieve it in calmer conditions).
As always left a liked. Don’t pull the thread. Got it!!!!
Mads - I just read a woodworking tip to make sanding belts last longer. Put fiberglass backing tape on the back of the belt. Don't know if that tip will help you or not but thought I would pass it on.
Don't forget to add a forward facing polorized camera to to top of the mast. Very helpful when negotiating tight passages. Nothing better than time spent polishing your pipe, so great when it's done. CHEERS Steve h.
“Regardless” is better than “irregardless”
Sho nuff is.
In the end, you will be glad you decided to go ahead and polish everything that you have. You will be able to say "I did all of that myself" and it came out looking top notch!
In this somewhat extensive refit he can wave his hand vaguely at the boat and say "I did all of that myself."
you mean 'spiffy' :-)
+@@iainlyall6475 : DANG IT! Ya beat me to-it!
'SPIFFY' it is, was and, evermore, shall be! ;-()
MADS!!! Put the two flanged wheels on the sander in the chuck of the lathe and delete the flanges, then crown the wheels just enough so the belts track properly (likely less than 3 mm at the ends). The flanges are not the right thing to keep the belt tracking.
As a professional metal finisher, think in term of spiffy orthopedic devices, yes, crown the pullies/idlers and they will track true. The issue is NOT with the belts.
Who designs a tool with such a defect?! There must be an alignment adjustment. Perhaps the thing was dropped at some point or maybe Mads hasn’t been warned to stay away from Harbor Freight
This 5 year journey is fascinating, Mads. You’ll be done (for the time being) and Ava will be here before you know it! You’re doing an amazing job! 🙌
Everytime I see the ease with that you do all of this, I feel like restoring a boat!
Then I remember that I can’t even hang some shelves...
I didn’t realize how much my pulpit sucked. That is definitely bulletproof. So cool
I can't wait to see Mav leaning on it with his arms spread out screaming "I'm the king of the world!"
Obstacles to progress, lots of mini projects held up by supply issues and the arrival date of the ‘boss’ looms ever nearer - cue the tension building soundtrack.🤣👍😀⛵️
There are aluminum socket head cap screws and hex head machine screws. It's also possible to use plastic headed bushings to isolate stainless fasteners from the aluminum housing. BTW - you are amazing.
Every time you say “somewhat extensive refit.” 🤣🤣🤣 You da man, Madz.
I watched a couple of your first videos on Oblix. Not that they were bad - actually far better than I can do but, your screen presence has evolved quite nicely. Thank you for all the videos you have shared.
18:08 SOOOO many of my MASSIVE projects started as pulling that thread Mads! Dont do it!
Mads, with that much alternator wattage I would consider the addition of a good espresso machine which has the additional benefits of instant hot water and a steamer. Fluffy steamed eggs in 30 seconds. Quick soup and ramen. Leftovers reheated and hydrated. No pan cleanup. That’s correct, I wouldn’t have a microwave in my galley.
Mads - I think this has been one of the most exhausting videos you have ever made. I feel worn out after watching. Thoroughly enjoyed it though! Ron
@Mads! Before crossing the Atlantic you must arrive to the Canary Islands. I've been seeing you all this years, and learn a lot from you to restore my powerboat. So, I must say that you have a friend here in Tenerife!! Best regards (sorry for my crappy English!
Time to consider how to rig a gennaker. The gennaker lines mustn't get in the way of the bow nav light. You might consider separate nav lights on the sides rather than a single one right on the bow. Even if the wattage of the new alternator is 4400W you can't count on getting half the amperage out of it: heat dissipation is the problem. Heat generation is proportional to the square if the current, and if you compare the two housings you'll note that they look very similar and it is not obvious how the new alternator may cope with the additional heat generated. You could try to install a tubing with a fan that funnels fresh air from the outside directly on the alt casing. Or you upgrade to a water-cooled professional 24V truck alternator. These can cope with the heat.
Man, I find myself waiting for your videos. Thanks!
Nothing strikes fear into a man's heart like oh my! My partner is coming home and I need to clean up the bachelor pad, AKA project boat.
Always leave a like but not always a comment. Mads, you are the most prolific provider of spiffy content on rebuilding a boat. You want past a 'refit' about 300 tasks ago. Thank you for making Sundays the day to sit down and relax.
Pulpit? Now that's a strange name. We call it Bugkorb. Bowbasket. Because it's at bow and somewhat serves the function of a basket by holding you inside the boat.
Are you planning to put a seat on the pulpit? It's definitely beefy enough for one.
The polished arch was worth the work it didn't take me long at all. Being polished 316 stainless won't oxidize at all well at least less than the bead blast would. I still can't wait for the electronics just the mention of a forward facing camera got me excited to see the all the tech when your finished. Thanks for the great video..
Chain counter: crazy $$$$
Professionalism at it's peek. Love that level of can do attitude though it all Mads, Athena will sail with Her Mast held High !!
Diligence should be the name of at least some boat out there!
Corrects 'tigress' and immediately drops an 'irregardless'
I realize it's very petty, but 'irregardless' is one of my language pet peeves, mainly because I made the same mistake for years before someone was kind enough to correct me.
It is a tricky linguistic thing even for native speakers, so I think we need to let this one roll!
It's actually been officially recognized as a word. I'd say the word was misused so often, dictionaries just gave up.
Although the word irregardless constitutes a double negative, the word is correct american English and can be used interchangeably with regardless. The word first appeared in print in 1795 and was first taken up by dictionaries in 1912. (The controversy surrounding the usage, stems from the constituents of the word, that would logically have given the word the meaning; "in regard to" making it a antonym rather than a synonym).
@@jaydeeinbriz Im old school - Im sticking with regardless!
Your pronunciation of Tigres is correct
Må sige det igen 😊 du er fandme dygtig Mads 👍 tak for at man lærer meget af dig nu når man selv har sejlbåd 🇩🇰😊
To optimize drive belt and alternator life, I would strongly recommend that you adjust, via the regulator, the output from 100% to 75-85% of total amps output. Also a ramped startup of output will assist starting.
Your alternator will run cooler, your belt will last longer and charge time will not noticeably be affected.
Totally agree also make sure alternator mounting is solid enough to not vibrate.
For what it's worth, I call mine a "teegress." Also, the extra arch to be a dinghy hoist is a great idea. A lot of Lagoon and Leopard cats use the same idea, and I think, wait, well, I think it's "spiffy."
Mads, you are a MACHINE when it comes to boat work! Good luck getting everything ready in time for the fiancée.
It will all work out, you’re DEFINITELY smart enough to figure it out.
Hello Mads
Keep up the good work👍🛠 You are DANG SPIFFY! Now again waiting for sunday to come....
“dinosaur squeezings”
Oh, Mads! You’re killing me!
Never stop!
Gosh, we're getting technical. Engine alternator - fit the pair, one for house bank and one for engine start battery. - Volvo do a kit based on a Mastervolt setup. A separate engine battery will get you out of trouble in the long run. The aluminium windless is no problem, I would have gone for stainless, but plastic sleeves and washers, like the engine, will prevent galvanic corrosion. The gypsy will be stainless - use loads of copper slip here to preserve it and the clutch. Polishing the stainless arch is a good move and make it less prone to corrosion . I don't understand why you are not using traditional polishing mops and soaps? These "melt" away weld burrs etc and the mirror finish is to die for. Make sure the gypsy on the windlass is compatible with your chain size! Chain counter is priceless and a big boat asset. Stainless (318) chain is expensive but will last the life of the boat if looked after and flakes so easily into the chain locker - a great asset. Ultra stainless anchor, I think you already have this. Navigation lights, don't muck about and go for Lopolight, they will also last the life of the boat and have the best range. They are also nice and compact and completely waterproof. Sorry if this sounds a bit pushy but with what you've done so far you want the very best with these items... Great video as usual Mads, my Sunday night fix!!
You are AWESOME! Nothing gets your down and you battle forward with your projects like a special forces trooper. Keep it up brother. You can see the finish line now and know that soon you will have the additional 2 hands on deck for help and make the time oh so much more fun for you. Cheers from Mexico!!!
Just my opinion. You are doing a great job polishing the stainless steel. After you install everything and on a sunny day at different angles you are going to temporary blind someone or yourself from the reflection. Though at night it will reflect light pretty dang spiffy. Maybe a PVC or PEX washer between the bolt head and the windless down through the deck. Might be possible to use a 1/4 to 1/2 inch in diameter tube to surround the bolt so nothing will be touching metal to metal.
I've heard it said many times that projects follow the 80/20 rule. 80% of the outputs are produced in the last 20% of the project. Seems like its true! Great progress Mads
Awesome as usual 👍🏴
Mads, I'm sure you've got this covered, but...
The Sicomin expanding epoxy foam won't cure fully unless it gets a post cure of at at least 6 hours at 40 degrees C.
I did an experiment to test this. It expands OK, but then just stays goopy without the post-cure.
Cheers, Paul
Golly
41 days! This is getting exciting😀
Quality work. I recommend to keep your boat at San Pedro I live in LA and much easier to liveaboard there. Check Holiday Harbor San Pedro when you get to LA.
Great progress Mads... Don't worry about your pronunciation, your English is amazing!! Also, how different people say words is part of the magic of language.... AAAAAnnnnnd with American English they pronounce everything wrong anyway... ;-)
41 days Mads, Ohh dear.. Who needs sleep anyway :D.. I really like the stainless, especially the bow pulpit, it looks agressive and fitting for a Warrior.
Nice video! Colour code your chain with paint every 10 metres and forget about the chain counter.
Very nice. Sanding too
If you electrically isolated the stainless bolts from the aluminium body of the windlass, the corrosion problem will be greatly reduced
It looked like the windlass came with black "isolation" bushings. I suspect that in time the salt water will find it's way under the pad and create a ...salt...bridge.
What about a total coat of sikaflex?
@@honeybadgerisme I worked on a project that relied on structural adhesives for passenger securements in vehicles. I tested a range of products and Sikaflex was the high-water mark. Unfortunately it's strength relied on the use of a primer that makes one's eyes bleed. There's a similar product called (Henkel) Locktite 5572 that generates several hundred psi of grip strength, though the cured material isn't as elastic (which may be a benefit in many applications). It is more forgiving with site preparation and it doesn't require the Chernobyl-grade primer.
Awesome.. Looking great, and enjoying the show!
I hope your sailing adventures are as good as your boat fixing vids, it's been epic.
I always look so forward to Sunday's... and i dont mean the ice cream ones😉
Gee, I'm glad you polished the rails as they look absolutely sensational. As usual informative.
I am always amazed by the amount of work you've done and progress that you've made on Athena. I can't wait to see you finally get to sail!
I want to post a very insightful and funny comment that helps everybody, but frankly I got nothing. The videos and your humour are still on point, though. Keep up the great work.
Uhhh Ava called, She wants the rainbow and butterflies curtains up in 35 days, OR ELSE !
Use baby powder on your exposed skin, it seals off the pores: it really works!
Also when showing , on skin that was exposed wash in 1 direction.
Try Take a bit of gaffer or gorilla tape to the back of those sanding belts. Make 2 passes with it so there’s not a gap.
OCD with a big budget..... how cool is that .
"Common Grades of Monel Bolts Monel 400 Monel 400, UNS N04400 (QQ-N-281), is a nickel-copper alloy with high strength and excellent corrosion resistance in a range of media including sea water, hydrofluoric acid, sulfuric acid, and alkalies. Monel 400 is commonly in marine engineering, chemical and hydrocarbon processing applications."
Color coded chain markers are very low tech but easy and cheap to replace when worn.
OH NO! A remote wireless controller for the windlass???? I had one and HAD is the key word. The lag between pushing releasing the buttons was enough to jam up the windlass on raising the anchor. And the chain counter......paint the chain with meter markings.
What happened to your dog Jökull ? Did he leave you along with Obelix ? 🤓😊
Rather than just “living with” bi-metal corrosion, you could isolate the stainless bolts from the aluminum housing. One way to do that is by using HDPE washers.
My thoughts too.
Another great video, Mads!
Do you not think that building a very strong pulpit might backfire if you bump into something with it (like the previous owner did). Something has to give and you don’t want it to be the foredeck.
With that thing up front I'm betting the thing to give is whatever it hits. "Collision speed, Full!"
I love seeing what you are putting together Mads, another fantastic video.
To help with the corrosion issues with the aluminum windlass, look into wet installing the fasteners with something like CA1000.
I find it crazy you have not painted the chain locker. But I am sure you will get to it.
If you go through a lock just be wary you don't hit the side with the new pulpit if it's that strong it could rip the front of the boat off! I got caught in vortex in a lock once and ended up with quite a glancing blow on one side to the pulpit. The pulpit bent rather than anything else, so it acted like a crumple zone.
Just 40 days! I'm so excited for you!
Hello. Just a comment about my windlass install fiasco. I bought a brand new Lofrans Cayman 88 windlass for my Island Packet. This was fresh from the distributor in the US. It replaced an existing Lofrans so the install was fairly easy. I had to leave the boat for several months as I live in Switzerland and the boat was in Florida. Thunderstorms are common in Florida with heavy rains. In short, the case for the windlass was not properly sealed allowing rain water to penetrate inside. This completed rusted the motor making the windlass inoperable. Therefore, I suggest making sure the case is completely watertight. I think your model is similar in appearance to mine. There are only 4 bolts securing the 2 parts of the case. With mine, the gasket between the 2 case half’s was twisted making a watertight seal impossible but difficult to see. Just my experience. Hope it’s not your problem.
Thank you for this! We’ve got a cayman on order about to arrive and install. Heavy rains are common here on the west coast of Canada, so I appreciate this feedback!
Hej Mads, det er bare så skønt at sidde og drikke sin kaffe her mandag morgen og så se din video :-)
Another great video!
Are you certain the epoxy covering the inside of the chain hole is sufficient with a chain bouncing around in there? Perhaps epoxying a bit of pipe in there might add protection to your much beloved core.
Also, out of experience, those winches don't always come with oil inside. Don't forget to fill it up before using.
Regardless = Without regard to
Irregardless = Without without regard to
For the sanding belts I attached/hacksmithed a variable speed controller. It helped a lot and saved belt money and no it doesn’t hurt the grinder.
It has got speed control
Sailing Monsoon is this cement boat guy? If so cool I will subscribe and the one I bought did not weird they snap so easy they are expensive here in Canada
We need an update on the to do list
“Pulling a piece of string on a sweater” isn’t that true for every “little” job on a boat 😂
The string starts with the signature on the purchase contract... ;-)
Are you considering using bifacial solar panels? They should be optimal for northern climates and light reflecting off the water surface. Will Prowse is testing them on his channel
Every week I look forward to your video. Great content and I love your commentary!
Time is going by fast, only 42 days seems rather short for all the pending things to be done... I'm sure you will make it happen, though! 😎