Artillery Sidewinder X1 basic upgrades
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- Опубліковано 20 тра 2021
- Upgrading some of the basic parts of the Artillery Sidewinder X1.
I show how to disassemble the Extruder Assembly, change out the Heat Break Throat, Heater Block, Nozzle and Tensioner Arm. - Наука та технологія
Got 5 of these machines on a print farm, they get heavily used, never had a lever broken, just my experience. Also the aluminium block subject, aluminium is well known for conducting (and dissipating) heat very well, granted that copper is superior (Copper Thermal Conductivity BTU/(hr·ft⋅°F is 223, Aluminium is 118) so on that basis that might be a worthy upgrade indeed. Brass nozzles, for me- not a problem, I change them often, as and when required, I check their hole with a precise 0.4mm drill bit. I am reluctant to "fix" stuff if it ain't broken or don't need to, all the other bits of the extruder system work fine for me, even the part fan system, despite having tried other designs the stock seems the best. Dimensional accuracy once one does some of those upgrades would require recalibrate expansion settings. I don't print at high temps hence no need to change heat break, etc. This is just my experience, your mileage might vary.
I totally agree with that. The sidewinder doesn't need any of those upgrades. Nozzles are cheap and you can change them every once in a while, the heatbreak is totally fine if you don't want to print at very high temps. And if you want to print at very high temps, you shouldn't use the sidewinder anyways.
My lever didn't break yet but I want to replace it to a metal one as well, just because I can.
Levers tend to break, I have seen broken ones.
mine lever broke
Just found your channel, I'm impressed that I actually found a channel that doesn't devote themselves to Ender 3 printers. I love my artillery swx1. It too has worked great out of the box. I am looking to upgrade to a 32-bit board and EZABL. (MKS SGENL v2) Working on compiling firmware right now.
Thanks! I actually have an MKS SGEN L V1. The V2s are hard to find right now. I’m going to attempt compiling the firmware soon. The machine that I was going to upgrade to 32 bit is currently dead with a frozen extruder. I’m waiting for a new bondtech for it. Then I’ll work on the firmware.
@@GeekingOutWithPete I am now in the process of searching for an all metal hotend so I can print ABS nylon those types of things.
@@deankq4adj125 I’m absolutely loving the Bondtech LXG with the mosquito upgrade. I’ll be carrying those in my online store in a few days.
@@GeekingOutWithPete Sounds great! I got my MKS SGenL v2 board from TH3D. They have a UA-cam channel and an online store. Really good people to work with and they stand behind their products.
@@deankq4adj125 yeah, I’ve gotten parts and stuff from them too.
one upgrade / repair that i've been doing recently (been running my printers for awhile) is upgrading the extruder motor bearings to a high quality 625-2RS bearings (front and rear of the motor). Before I did this the extruder motor was binding and showing up as under extruded lines in my prints. Adjusting tension of the arm helped but was still a issue and got to the point where that didn't even help anymore. Changing the bearings got me back up and going and now I just go ahead and upgrade the printer out of the box with them.
Great video! Thanks for providing this to the community. I'm going to start printing fiber-reinforced nylon, so these upgrades will suit me very well.
You’re welcome! Glad I could help.
Hi Jeremy! I'm interested in printing nylon too, would you share your experience?
@@philippeg3 not much to tell yet because my ruby tipped nozzle got clogged and then my artillery started throwing a strange error. It could be the board or a short in some of the lines. I thought a drag chain would prevent the bed cable from fraying, but it didn't, too. So I have a lot of work to do.
@@jeremynicoletti9060 What was the error? Most errors on these things are loose ribbon cable...
@@GeekingOutWithPete Mintemp error. I checked the cable to the bed, and soldered two wires. Problem was worse afterwards. Maybe I should check those first? Looking inside everything looks in place. I took off the bed to look for other problems and it looks completely fine.
Hola muchas gracias por compartir tus conocimientos. Saludos desde Argentina
The next time I take apart the hot end assembly I'm taking it off the printer first. Getting it re-assembled properly was a major pain in the rear. I have an X2 - one thing to watch out for is not to reassemble the hot end so that the nozzle hangs further down than it was before - if you don't take the precaution of increasing Z Offset by 1 or 2mm before zeroing the printer the first time after re-assembly you might end up with the nozzle hitting the bed (on a X2 this makes a lot of noise). Before dis-assembly use digital calipers to measure from the top surface of the heat sink to the bottom of the nozzle and write down the value. I've got the parts ordered for an upgrade (copper heat block, all-metal heat break) so it's due for another disassembly in about three weeks... Rather than buy an aluminum arm I printed about a dozen out of PETG (the part's on Thingiverse) and I plan to use one of those if the arm breaks.
well, removing the heat break from the cooling block was the one thing i wanted to know how to do and the one thing you did off camera...
so yea i have stock idler and was replacing motor noticed that idler touches teeth of the gear if tightened and locks it
Thanks a lot! very useful
UPS, when you put the new alu arm in, score the old ballbearing, since it got a grove for the filament, it is much better.
Thanks! I find my X1 reliable. Parts are inexpensive and easy to find. Repairs are easy which is good because the barefoot knucklehead that works it has broken something 4 times in 4 years.
Thinking about an all metal heartbreak to print some hotter filaments, I've heard that PLA clogs in all metal ones a lot though. Any experience with this?
That’s the reason for the upgraded heat break. The heat will creep up the feed and the PLA will melt all the way up to the drive gear.
Also, make sure you have a good fan on the extruder. I’ve had the fan fail and spent 2 days cleaning out the whole extruder of melted PLA.
Just Unboxed mine yesterday and set up, ALL JACKED UP!! Major Firmware Messed up
What’s the problem with the firmware?
@@GeekingOutWithPete I Contacted ARTILLARY Support But They are in CHINA! You REALLY KNOW What your doing, Very EASY To see that! Im NOT Trying to Knock it Down, Just Very disappointed It wont Even Print Yet properly! Tbe only thing it can do at this point as far as "printing" is Just go back n forth right in spot where it starts Prints. WILL NOT Move the X AT ALL! Gives a PRINTER KILL Warning
@@NICHOLASRGLORIOSO check the ribbon cables. I’ve seen it do that when the cables aren’t seated properly or crossing pins.
@@GeekingOutWithPete I ACTUALLY DID ALL THAT, and Replaced BOTH With the spares provided! STILL JACKED UP
@@NICHOLASRGLORIOSO ok. I still wouldn’t suspect the firmware. More likely some hardware issue. Do all the axis move smoothly? When you get a “printer kill” error and weird movement, it’s usually a stuck stepper motor or like I said crossed pins, the motor can’t move or trying to go 2 directions at once. Could be a bad pcb board, but I’ve never seen it right out of the box.
when i tighten 2 halves its either too tight feeder hardly turns or too loose that assembly has bit of wiggle...
I personally would suggest screwing in nozzle first up to its shoulder Then the heat break tube so you know they are butted up against each other with no gap and then slide it into the chassis so then you can orient it how you like and then tighten in place.
Where did you source the parts from?
I would recommend using the stock spring when replacing the idler arm. Also it is helpful to switch the grooved bearing from the stock arm over to the aluminum one to help the filament track better.
For anyone changing their arm, the new arm comes with a new bearing already installed. Make sure the old one is removed when you take the plastic arm off. Sometimes the bearing sticks to the motor shaft. Only one bearing will fit on the motor shaft.
Yes! Make sure you remove the old bearing. Lol. I’ve had that happen a few times because I forgot to check.
Hi hi! Very very good video!
Can you please list the tools and also the sizes (Torx, allen wrench etc.)? That would be very helpful for my shopping tour. Thank you so much! Tom
2mm allen key seems to be the most commonly used - pretty much used on all the screws on the hot end. The grub screws that hold in the heat break are the next smaller size. A long 2mm allen driver would be useful, I have one on order.
Great job, Pete! You've given me impetus to make some of these upgrades to my relatively new Sidewinder (vintage December 2020), as well.
I am intrigued, though, by your Allen "screwdriver." That surely beats using the standard Allen wrenches, when possible. So, can you give info on what you're using?...maybe links to purchase, if you can provide such.
New subscriber...and I look forward to watching more of your excellent videos. Very straightforward, and I certainly appreciate that.
--Dr. Larry S. Anderson • Tupelo, MS (birthplace of Elvis)
Hi Larry,
thanks for the great comments. I plan on doing a lot more videos, but I've been tied up with business issues.
The driver set I use is from Harbor Freight. Here's the link.
www.harborfreight.com/32-piece-screwdriver-set-with-tweezers-97517.html
I have a couple videos "almost" ready to post, I just haven't had the time to finish them.
--Pete
@@GeekingOutWithPete Thanks a million, Pete! I'm about to dash out on some errands, so I'll drop by Harbor Freight and pick up this set. U B da MANNN!
@@nctplarry did you get the driver set?
Btw, looks like you’re a ham. W1PGS here.
@@GeekingOutWithPete I had every intention of doing so; however, when I stopped by the store, a torrential rain began and I had groceries in the car that needed to be refrigerated ASAP. So, I'll dash back there. The HF store is only about 1.5 miles from my house -- about the same distance as the Elvis Presley Birthplace -- Ha!
And, yes, I've been a ham since 1971. Original call sign was WB5EIN, but I now have a 2x1 call -- NN5O. I operate almost exclusively CW (comfort zone 38-42 wpm), but do a fair amount of FT8/FT4 QSOs...and enjoy RTTY contesting, as well.
I did check your QRZ.com page. Of course, you can view mine at www.qrz.com/db/NN5O
Thanks for all your tremendous help and 73!
1) first of all: thanks for the efforts you take for producing your vids.
The stock silicon sock (you didn't order a one matching the new heater block's size) to be attached to the new heaterblock does not fit snuggly (-->rather ugly! I bought the same heaterblock some months ago and had to send it back) to the copperplated heaterblock because this high temperature one is approx. 2.5 to 3mm wider towards the build-part vent(!) and thus intercepts the air-stream a bit, and defeats the intention at least to a significant percentage. How do you compensate for that?
2) here's another point: more to the end of your vid you remembered, that the PTFE-tube going into the upper end of the heatbreak has to be adapted too: specific thanks for that, because this is the reason for which I consulted quite a number of ASWX1-YT-vids already to get an example, how its to be done
Thanks for the excellent video. Can you provide links to purchase the upgraded parts you use?
I have all these parts for sale on my website Gabby3D.com.
@@GeekingOutWithPete Thank you!
14:16 The heater block is attached to the heatsink by two small allen screws...
I had to pull and disassemble the extruder because something, I'm not clear on what all happened, but the root cause, I think, was me forgetting to tighten down one of the spool holders when changing tpu and pla spools and it slipped and jammed the spool so that filament would not feed. pla ended up being caked up all around the heat block as I wasn't present during the print. Opening it up, I found the plastic arm broken in three places. I've used a heatgun to get all the pla off the block after disassembly. Getting that aluminum arm to replace it.
Yeah. I’ve had a few different problems with the idler arm. The worst was when the extruder fan stopped working for some reason. The filament melted all the way up and filament kept feeding but not going through the nozzle. Eventually melting the idler. That was the first machine I upgraded to the bondtech extruder. I figured I’d have to replace the whole thing anyway. Why not go for a big upgrade.
Btw, I’ve been finding that the aluminum idlers that have been coming recently have an undersized pivot hole. It fits on, but it’s tight and after a few hours of running, they seize up. I’ll drill it out bigger for you.
-Pete
@@GeekingOutWithPete Appreciate it!
Even though you said that the heat wont rise up as much, a friend of mine I contacted about this was concerned about prolonged printing, because the threaded heatbreak isn't making enough contact with the aluminium cooling plate and would heat up more and more upwards, leading to clogging. He said it's fine for like, 5 hour prints but not longer than that. Is that true? Do you only do smaller prints with it? I'm very curious.
Hi, I did very long prints with it and never had a problem. But, now I've upgraded to the LGX extruder on all my X1s so I don't even use that setup.
But I do carry the correct heat break on my website now. It's the bi-metal heat break without threads.
Easy, you can apply some decent thermal paste in there.
Can you put the links of the heatbreak, Heat block and noozle?
Hi Oscar,
All the parts can be found on my website gabby3d.com. I carry many genuine Artillery and aftermarket parts.
@Geeking Out! would these upgrades help in printing ASA? I'm about to install today and hoping i can print out material over the weekend
Since ASA requires a pretty high nozzle and bed temp, the heat break would definitely help and I'd probably go with a copper heat block. I don't know how abrasive ASA is, so you may not need a hardened nozzle.
@@GeekingOutWithPete would any v6 copper heater block and all metal heat break work for the x1? do you have links for the parts you used? or would i have to cut heatbreak to size?
@@luisx333 Any Volcano heat block will work but the heat break depends on the version of X1 you have. The older ones screwed into the backing plate and the newer ones have a smooth top and use a set screw to hold them in.
I sell them on my site, but unfortunately my site crashed last night while doing a "Security" upgrade and I'm still waiting for the hosting company to get it back up and running.
@@GeekingOutWithPete I'm curious what actual benefits a copper heater block has over the stock aluminum? I was actually looking at just getting the heatbreak as that is what caused my clogging from the melted ptfe tubing at the nozzle
One last question is in switching from .4mm to .6mm nozzle what changes do I need to make to my slicer settings?
Where do you get the bulb on the extruder?
The bulb? You mean the led?
Nice! Links to purchase these upgrades? are they all e3d?
Hi Ross, I sell all these parts on my website gabby3d.com. I’m an authorized artillery reseller and carry genuine and aftermarket artillery parts and printers. Most of the aftermarket come from China except the brand name parts.
I also carry Bondtech extruders. If you’re looking for hotend upgrades take a look at my LGX upgrade video.
I don’t push the website in the videos because I really don’t want people to think the videos are just ads for me to sell products.
@@GeekingOutWithPete Awesome! Checking it out. Cheers.
Where did you get the upgraded hotend.
I carry all the parts on my website gabby3d.com
I also carry the genuine artillery all-metal hotend.
@@GeekingOutWithPete Thank you. This is great. Ive been using creality for years and print with 3 ender 5 + at work and wanted to give something else a try. I really like this machine and thank you for making the upgrades easy.
Increase your lighting, will prevent all the graininess you see in the video. Just a random tip.
Hi Thank You for the Great Videos .... do you happen to ship to Canada?
Depends on what you’re looking for. I’m only allowed to sell artillery 3D printers in the US and I haven’t figured out a way to tell the website that. Lol. So I just have it set to only allow us shipping.
@@GeekingOutWithPete Looking getting the upgrades you mention Geeking Out Episode #2
@@boomer0889 let me see if I can figure out how to change the settings so that everything but printers can be shipped outside the us.
@@GeekingOutWithPete Greatly appreciated :)
@@boomer0889 OK I *Think* I have the non US shipping sorted out. Give it a try.
:-D
Ive had my x1 since 2019 and havent replaced the idler arm yet, I think its because I set the tension screw right and alot of people were leaving it super tight causing it to brake. mine also has a different heatbreak, its the threaded kind and the heatsink is different too. I think this one is how they all come now haha
General rule is never to use a torque wrench to break torque on fasteners etc.
We're these parts from the artillery website or a 3rd party?
These were 3rd party parts I ordered before Artillery announced that they have an upgraded all metal hotend with all the same upgrades.
These parts are available on my website gabby3d.com/shop/
I'll be carrying the Artillery parts as soon as they are available as well as the BondTech upgrades I did in another video.
Is that a V6 heatbreak into a volcano heatblock?
@@Simon-qt3ci works on the V6, volcano and other compatible blocks.
Every one keeps saying how quit they are my x1 is super load
Mine are almost silent. I have other brand printers that are noisy as hell.
my x1's heatsink is 10x shittier then yours its just a square cheapo slapped on a flat plate , I had the parts laying around so I just slapped a 50mm water block on it now it has 240mm radiator hanging out behind the machine :)
Yep. The version 3 and earlier had those. I have a few of them. I upgraded all those to the bondtech.
Ya bro.
I love your pronunciation. But please use the Metric System as all humans in this world do.
The Boston accent?
Brass IS NOT a soft metal! Modifications being made seem whimsical… not very necessary IMHO.
Seriously? Brass is a very soft metal. It can be dented, scratched and deformed with just about any tool. And if you’re using any abrasive filament like glow in the dark, polycarbonate or carbon fiber, the nozzle won’t last long at all.
The plastic lever on the sidewinder is known for breaking and the heartbreak is necessary if you’re going to be printing any high temp filaments. I’ve found out the hard way by having melted filament all the way up the extruder.
So not just “whimsical”
@@GeekingOutWithPete would these upgrades help in printing ASA? I'm about to install today and hoping i can print out material over the weekend
www.reference.com/science/list-soft-metals-e1a0d8d3dcbbc1a0
Pete, great video (after multiple viewings)...so, I'm wondering what/where you sourced your inch-pound torque wrench -- a VERY good tool to have handy, IMHO. I have ordered a 1/4" drive click stop torque wrench from Amazon (www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PGIUK3I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) -- Capri Tools 31007 that I hope will suffice. However, you have tons of experience using this, so I yield to your sage counsel.
Also, I'm thinking seriously about taking my entire extruder assembly back apart (after a tough clog) and replace the parts that you mention in this excellent video. I do have a Micro Swiss .04 plated nozzle that I MIGHT use, but I'm liking the rationale you give for using the replacement nozzle you chose. Too, I ordered a replacement metal idler arm (Silver Titan Aero Extruder Idler Arm for All Metal Titan Aero Extruder 1.75mm), but just need to install it when I do these other upgrades. That would leave the copper heater block and metal heat break.
I know it's a hassle, but are you able to give us sources for the replacements you chose? Smart sheep follow the lead of their master shepherd! And, so I know my printing adventures will be much better after I make your suggested upgrades!
Thanks. de Larry Anderson NN5O