Isopropyl alcohol will "deactivate" hot glue within seconds. It just works its way under the bond and the blob of glue practically falls off. It's like magic.
At this point I basically know that if I'm working on a machine I'll eventually get to that point. Presses, rope tows, 3d printers, doesn't matter - never goes smoothly.
@@GoodRoads I have a bunch of older tools so it's a constant battle of rebuilding or replacing parts. Was looking at buyinh a CNC now I'm just like I should just build one. Then I know how to fix or replace parts easier 😂
Oh I went the exact opposite direction, I went really down a rabbit hole trying to design a rack and pinion 3d printable CNC router but after a few months and redesigns I decided I'd rather just have someone else build it hahaha! I'd still like to tackle that project at some point but it doesn't seem like a beginner friendly way to go, I want to cut my teeth on some subtractive manufacturing first
@@GoodRoads I was looking at 3018s then went down the diy rabbit hole. So I'm leaning that way if I can find extra money for parts to do it. Have you looked at the printnc cnc? its kits/3d printed parts and uses steel square tube. Getting something long enough to do snowboards/ small surfboards would be ideal but so much money.
Remember that average bronze copper etc nozzles can handle 15mm3 per sec of filament no more New cht nozzles can handle 30mm3 About ptfe...stock hotent can have ptfe up to nozzle thats why it can melt U can use capricorn ptfe that can handle almost 300*C The bondtech one with slice engineering have bi metal heatbreak that uses copper thread with stailness tube for less heat transfer with super thin walls thinner than u can machine on cnc etc because its exteuded It works way better than any other heatbreak Add to that bondtech cht nozzle and u can print like crazy without problems with under exteusion (if u already dont use it) Another tip Its better to print thicker than nozzle size or use bigger nozzle so u will have less layers but thick lines = stronger part Ps Add average plastic kitchen sponge before filament goes into extruder so u wont ever have dust in the nozzle =no cleaning needed ever
i got a real hardened hob for mine (like 30ish bucks).... because the cheapo ones don't handle big boy materials well(grinds through their pot metal blend they call Steel). but after a hot end rebuild all metal now, used some titanium break.. it runs like a champ up to 350 C and will feed glass filled nylons for days little to no wear, vs the old hob which new wouldn't survive 48hrs run pa6-gf. P.S. yes this required pulling marlin in to a aurdino, updating the thermistor(11 or 13 for my winnsin type) and heat max's(350) and then generate the new hex and load that to the x1 via a firm ware flashing . also i used the modded the x1 screen firmware tweaked that to accept its new max temps... it seems to hold stable temps, runs smoothly, hasn't burst in to flames after several weeks of running at 300 for nylons... but obvious you take a risk so a flame proof box or fire protections are smart.
I was just looking at the kit (its on back order), and boy is it expensive. But they now supply a different mounting bracket, fan and duct which bolts on, which should eliminate all the problems you had.
LOL if you are going to go in and modify the firmware, no need to change the wire loom for the stepper. Just reverse the direction of the stpper in firmware.
Nice I just got a cr-6max to print skateboard molds. My anet a8 clone is just too small. If things go well, I'll try to do a voron build and cnc router build.
Will this extruder hot end combination work with an artillery genius as well? As far as I know they have the same direct-drive set up. Definitely looking to upgrade.
Did this upgrade on my printer just shy of a year ago, since I hated the titan DD design. Its worked super well. Not a single jam and prints TPU like its solid. I think weight-wise, its actually heavier than the original titan clone, but I don't do speed benchies or anything fancy like that, so I don't notice. The increase in reliability is well worth the price tag. The only thing bad I have to say is that I've also had issues with the fan duct they sent. It doesn't give enough clearance to the nozzle IMO. Any way you could share the fan duct you designed?
I'm actually not really happy with the fan duct I designed either. It works okay but the mounting is all wonky. If I do another pass and get it cleaned up I'll make the files available for sure!
I think the one thing needed to make this better is a good part fan cooling duct. Like Teaching Tech, I opted to use the Waggster BL Touch mount and keep the 4020 fan. Any luck with a better fan duct?
Did you notice an improvement in extrusion layer lines with the LGX extruder? I would imagine the large gears and teeth contact would improve accuracy.
Bro, do the BL-Touch upgrade it should be easy now that you have already upgraded the firmware. It's a game changer, I used to watch every first layer with fingers crossed, now it's so easy to use. Haven't leveled the bed in 18 months. (Though I should probably dial it in flat again someday.)
saturate the hot glue connections with isopropyl alcohol. the entire glob may come off easily after a few minutes or a little bit of wiggling. If not a little bit of google searching should point you in the right direction in terms of what solvent would work for a particular hot glue. This has worked in the past for me, but this time wasnt so convenient. You want to get the entire glue glob out as one piece. Why? Cutting and hacking the glob off might lead to little bits of glue getting in between terminal connections within the connector interface. I had secured my ribbon cables with hot glue thinking it was the quickest best way. WRONG. I had a hell of a time cleaning the hot glue out the inside of the connectors. As a matter of fact I had to RE SOLDER NEW CONNECTORS because it was that bad. The hot glue found its way into very tight and small spaces and when I tried to use alcohol to remove the glob as one, the glob was so integrated into the connector that it wouldnt not come off as one piece. An ultrasonic cleaner with isop alcohol might even work better.
This is tempting, but the cost of the LGX kit is about as much as the Sidewinder itself. Not sure if the Sidewinder with its 8-bit board is a nice enough printer to justify it.
I need to upgrade my Sidewinder x1 and came across your video. After seeing your hot end fan crash into the stepper, I am not sure the money is worth all the headaches. But, I went to their site to see if maybe there are some details on their site. Your fan sticks out further than the one in the fifth installation video "Finishing Installation." Check it out at about 1:50 you get a great view of it. I wonder if they gave you the wrong fan? Other than the clocking of the fan everything else seems to match up, I don't see how clocking the fan a 1/4 turn would cause the interference. So if you were going to do this upgrade knowing what you know now, would you? I guess what I'm asking is if these upgrades/headaches are worth the $246 price tag?
Mmmm I'm not sure. I really feel like I was between a rock and a hard place because I need a direct drive extruder with a constrained filament path for some flexible printing projects I want to tackle. The Bondtech extruder has been awesome. Its super reliable, it works better and more easily than the stock one (or any other extruder I've tried) and it's even easier to work on, though I still find it to be a bit of a hassle. The hotend is _fine_ honestly the most notable upgrade for me is the heater block seems to have some sort of non-stick coating on it so any plastic globs that get onto it seem to eventually melt off on their own, which is cool. I think where I land is the hardware itself is awesome, but the upgrade kit falls short. I think for the asking price they DEFINITELY need to re-think the cooling vent, need to address possible axis crashes, and to go even further, for that amount of money it should come with an pre-calibrated instance of the firmware and directions on how to get it flashed. Having to piece that process together from various 3rd party youtube videos and blogs for a premium product feels like BS to me. Take better care of your customers, right? It's software, there's a one time cost to develop it then it's free. I'm happy to have it in place, and I'm happy to hopefully never have to do it again hahahaha!
@@GoodRoads Before I bought the X2 I was unaware of how weird Artillery made the flashing. In fact there's many things I don't like. For example Octoprint can't access USB storage, you can't flash firmware using a file, you need to use USB, some basic stuff is disabled in the original firmware, etc. Artillery sure made it very hard to mod their printers ...
I am over Artillery and their rubbish quality, I own a Sidewinder, Genius and Genius pro and my Sidewinder has been out of action for months due to some error where there x axis chatters like crazy when trying to move. Changed cables but nope so I ordered new pcb's direct from Atrillery which took 2 months to arrive only to discover the x axis pcb they sent me is no good at all and won't even try and work so I am ready to say enough and throw the bloody thing in the bin and buy something built better. Thanks for sharing mate.
you don't need to open the sidewinder x1 to flash it, I don't know which troll spread this lie but I know for a fact that you can just flash it from a sd card.
These chinese printers arent designed to be upgraded... Just go full opensource. Namely Voron. And klipper is much nicer software to work on than marlin. To build takes some time but atleast then youll know everything about youre system. Already build 2 of them can find videos on my channel.
@@GoodRoads and community in discord is such good troubleshooting and idea generation source. During the build and modding learned so much which was not mentioned anywhere else. Also enclosed printer with activated carbon filters actually is only one save way to print. Imo one has to make leap of faith and go to premium open source printers. Also love your videos!!!
I love the volume of the ambient music there’s so many creators that have it way to loud, also sweet vid dude I hope it doesn’t break!!!!
Excessive hot glue on connectors is the bane of my existence on these consumer grade printers, so I really understand your exasperation.
Isopropyl alcohol will "deactivate" hot glue within seconds. It just works its way under the bond and the blob of glue practically falls off. It's like magic.
Great vid, thank you! I’m just about to install mine
The Trinamic stepper drivers (depending on model) can do sensorless end stops.
7:11 is so relatability to so many builds 😂
At this point I basically know that if I'm working on a machine I'll eventually get to that point. Presses, rope tows, 3d printers, doesn't matter - never goes smoothly.
@@GoodRoads I have a bunch of older tools so it's a constant battle of rebuilding or replacing parts. Was looking at buyinh a CNC now I'm just like I should just build one. Then I know how to fix or replace parts easier 😂
Oh I went the exact opposite direction, I went really down a rabbit hole trying to design a rack and pinion 3d printable CNC router but after a few months and redesigns I decided I'd rather just have someone else build it hahaha! I'd still like to tackle that project at some point but it doesn't seem like a beginner friendly way to go, I want to cut my teeth on some subtractive manufacturing first
@@GoodRoads I was looking at 3018s then went down the diy rabbit hole. So I'm leaning that way if I can find extra money for parts to do it. Have you looked at the printnc cnc? its kits/3d printed parts and uses steel square tube. Getting something long enough to do snowboards/ small surfboards would be ideal but so much money.
@@WaveWasters I have seen that machine, it looks pretty dang capable. I think I've seen that people are milling aluminum with it
Remember that average bronze copper etc nozzles can handle 15mm3 per sec of filament no more
New cht nozzles can handle 30mm3
About ptfe...stock hotent can have ptfe up to nozzle thats why it can melt
U can use capricorn ptfe that can handle almost 300*C
The bondtech one with slice engineering have bi metal heatbreak that uses copper thread with stailness tube for less heat transfer with super thin walls thinner than u can machine on cnc etc because its exteuded
It works way better than any other heatbreak
Add to that bondtech cht nozzle and u can print like crazy without problems with under exteusion (if u already dont use it)
Another tip
Its better to print thicker than nozzle size or use bigger nozzle so u will have less layers but thick lines = stronger part
Ps
Add average plastic kitchen sponge before filament goes into extruder so u wont ever have dust in the nozzle =no cleaning needed ever
i got a real hardened hob for mine (like 30ish bucks).... because the cheapo ones don't handle big boy materials well(grinds through their pot metal blend they call Steel). but after a hot end rebuild all metal now, used some titanium break.. it runs like a champ up to 350 C and will feed glass filled nylons for days little to no wear, vs the old hob which new wouldn't survive 48hrs run pa6-gf. P.S. yes this required pulling marlin in to a aurdino, updating the thermistor(11 or 13 for my winnsin type) and heat max's(350) and then generate the new hex and load that to the x1 via a firm ware flashing . also i used the modded the x1 screen firmware tweaked that to accept its new max temps... it seems to hold stable temps, runs smoothly, hasn't burst in to flames after several weeks of running at 300 for nylons... but obvious you take a risk so a flame proof box or fire protections are smart.
I was just looking at the kit (its on back order), and boy is it expensive. But they now supply a different mounting bracket, fan and duct which bolts on, which should eliminate all the problems you had.
LOL if you are going to go in and modify the firmware, no need to change the wire loom for the stepper. Just reverse the direction of the stpper in firmware.
That makes sense. I wonder why that's not the recommended move in all the tutorials since like you said, you've got to update the firmware anyway
Nice I just got a cr-6max to print skateboard molds. My anet a8 clone is just too small. If things go well, I'll try to do a voron build and cnc router build.
Is there a tutorial on how to modify and flash the firmware?
Will this extruder hot end combination work with an artillery genius as well? As far as I know they have the same direct-drive set up. Definitely looking to upgrade.
Yes it should
Can you drop a link to the x-axis end stop you used to replace the original and the .stl for the offset you printed?
Did this upgrade on my printer just shy of a year ago, since I hated the titan DD design. Its worked super well. Not a single jam and prints TPU like its solid. I think weight-wise, its actually heavier than the original titan clone, but I don't do speed benchies or anything fancy like that, so I don't notice. The increase in reliability is well worth the price tag.
The only thing bad I have to say is that I've also had issues with the fan duct they sent. It doesn't give enough clearance to the nozzle IMO. Any way you could share the fan duct you designed?
I'm actually not really happy with the fan duct I designed either. It works okay but the mounting is all wonky. If I do another pass and get it cleaned up I'll make the files available for sure!
I think the one thing needed to make this better is a good part fan cooling duct. Like Teaching Tech, I opted to use the Waggster BL Touch mount and keep the 4020 fan. Any luck with a better fan duct?
Did you notice an improvement in extrusion layer lines with the LGX extruder? I would imagine the large gears and teeth contact would improve accuracy.
Good lord it costs almost as much as the printer!
Bro, do the BL-Touch upgrade it should be easy now that you have already upgraded the firmware. It's a game changer, I used to watch every first layer with fingers crossed, now it's so easy to use. Haven't leveled the bed in 18 months. (Though I should probably dial it in flat again someday.)
Where is that BL upgrade?
saturate the hot glue connections with isopropyl alcohol. the entire glob may come off easily after a few minutes or a little bit of wiggling. If not a little bit of google searching should point you in the right direction in terms of what solvent would work for a particular hot glue. This has worked in the past for me, but this time wasnt so convenient. You want to get the entire glue glob out as one piece. Why? Cutting and hacking the glob off might lead to little bits of glue getting in between terminal connections within the connector interface. I had secured my ribbon cables with hot glue thinking it was the quickest best way. WRONG. I had a hell of a time cleaning the hot glue out the inside of the connectors. As a matter of fact I had to RE SOLDER NEW CONNECTORS because it was that bad. The hot glue found its way into very tight and small spaces and when I tried to use alcohol to remove the glob as one, the glob was so integrated into the connector that it wouldnt not come off as one piece. An ultrasonic cleaner with isop alcohol might even work better.
Do you sell the heat cooling duct stl or piece?
This is tempting, but the cost of the LGX kit is about as much as the Sidewinder itself. Not sure if the Sidewinder with its 8-bit board is a nice enough printer to justify it.
The stepper motor in my kit is only stuttering making a loud noise, whether i have the wires on the loom crossed or not. I wonder if it is broken.
Any issues using this upgrade kit on an x2 / Genius Pro?
I need to upgrade my Sidewinder x1 and came across your video. After seeing your hot end fan crash into the stepper, I am not sure the money is worth all the headaches. But, I went to their site to see if maybe there are some details on their site. Your fan sticks out further than the one in the fifth installation video "Finishing Installation." Check it out at about 1:50 you get a great view of it. I wonder if they gave you the wrong fan? Other than the clocking of the fan everything else seems to match up, I don't see how clocking the fan a 1/4 turn would cause the interference.
So if you were going to do this upgrade knowing what you know now, would you? I guess what I'm asking is if these upgrades/headaches are worth the $246 price tag?
Mmmm I'm not sure. I really feel like I was between a rock and a hard place because I need a direct drive extruder with a constrained filament path for some flexible printing projects I want to tackle. The Bondtech extruder has been awesome. Its super reliable, it works better and more easily than the stock one (or any other extruder I've tried) and it's even easier to work on, though I still find it to be a bit of a hassle.
The hotend is _fine_ honestly the most notable upgrade for me is the heater block seems to have some sort of non-stick coating on it so any plastic globs that get onto it seem to eventually melt off on their own, which is cool.
I think where I land is the hardware itself is awesome, but the upgrade kit falls short. I think for the asking price they DEFINITELY need to re-think the cooling vent, need to address possible axis crashes, and to go even further, for that amount of money it should come with an pre-calibrated instance of the firmware and directions on how to get it flashed. Having to piece that process together from various 3rd party youtube videos and blogs for a premium product feels like BS to me. Take better care of your customers, right? It's software, there's a one time cost to develop it then it's free.
I'm happy to have it in place, and I'm happy to hopefully never have to do it again hahahaha!
Wonder if it's a Nickel Boron or Titanium Nitride coating or something similar.
@@GoodRoads Before I bought the X2 I was unaware of how weird Artillery made the flashing. In fact there's many things I don't like. For example Octoprint can't access USB storage, you can't flash firmware using a file, you need to use USB, some basic stuff is disabled in the original firmware, etc. Artillery sure made it very hard to mod their printers ...
What is the nozzle size? Can I change the nozzle out? I plan on ordering 3 of these and would like to use a 0.8mm nozzle with it if possible.
Is the noise any different compared to the OG extruder?
I have a sidewinder X1 at home and would like to upgrade it at some point
The fan for the heat break is smaller so the pitch is a little higher, but it's still super quiet
@@GoodRoads thank you
I am over Artillery and their rubbish quality, I own a Sidewinder, Genius and Genius pro and my Sidewinder has been out of action for months due to some error where there x axis chatters like crazy when trying to move. Changed cables but nope so I ordered new pcb's direct from Atrillery which took 2 months to arrive only to discover the x axis pcb they sent me is no good at all and won't even try and work so I am ready to say enough and throw the bloody thing in the bin and buy something built better. Thanks for sharing mate.
Bonjour serait-il possible d'avoir le STL du ventilateur de buse svp
It actually doesn't work very well. I would have released the design but the alignment is all messed up
@@GoodRoads thanks
Is there a way to add an auto bed level kit?
Yes
Here's a pretty good video on adding a BLTouch. ua-cam.com/video/ynm8inRMVkE/v-deo.html
you don't need to open the sidewinder x1 to flash it, I don't know which troll spread this lie but I know for a fact that you can just flash it from a sd card.
you might as well look at another printer at this price point
These chinese printers arent designed to be upgraded... Just go full opensource. Namely Voron. And klipper is much nicer software to work on than marlin. To build takes some time but atleast then youll know everything about youre system. Already build 2 of them can find videos on my channel.
The Vorons seems like such amazing machines, like a whole different ballpark compared to the extrusion and v-roller machines that are so common
@@GoodRoads and community in discord is such good troubleshooting and idea generation source. During the build and modding learned so much which was not mentioned anywhere else. Also enclosed printer with activated carbon filters actually is only one save way to print. Imo one has to make leap of faith and go to premium open source printers. Also love your videos!!!
I am building a Voron, but I still want to do some upgrades to my Artillery