thanks for sharing...first time viewer, have my first router still in its box...just learning what would work better for me, a beginner woodworker not afraid to get his hands dirty
I used this video to build my cabinet for the Kreygrouter table. I put added a drawer underneath the cross beam. I also deviated by mounting the on/off switch on the left side using 3/4" by3/4" metal L brackets from Ace hardware to mount the switch. I screwed the L bracket in the holes already in the table frame using a wood screw. Using the hardware that came with the switch I then passed the bolt through the L bracket , through the plastic wing of the switch and then into the nut and tightened. I had shaved off the triangular wings on the switch when trying to make the plywood brackets shown here and was having no luck. You will not need to cut of those triangular supports if you use the L brackets as they fit nicely into that space in the switch. This is a nice build, Takes a little more time than you would think, The corners inside the metal frame are curved and not perfectly square. I had to measure and cut the same piece a few times to get it together correctly without creating some wonky angles inside the cabinet. Did have to shim a few glides. With all that said this video was great inspiration to finally get this job done.
Mike, you did a really nice job on this build! I’m looking at the same thing myself for my Kreg router table which I’ve had for several years. Couple of things about your design I really like are the clear acrylic dust compartment cover that goes on with magnets as well as the ease and low profile of the push to open drawer slides. On another universal table where I added drawers, I found that a regular construction 2x4 fills the space perfectly on the left and right sides for the drawer runners. Cheaper than plywood and no need to laminate. I will probably have to modify your plan just a little bit because I currently have a Rockler dust box that takes up a lot of room. I am considering removing it and just letting the project be its own dust box like you did. I’ll still have to slightly widen the center section as my Woodpeckers PRL-V2 is a little over 8 inches wide. I know that some similar plans call for designing the entire assembly outside of the table and just pushing it into place. I like the way you made it, which is the way I am planning to make it. By designing the right and left “sides” of the assembly inside the steel legs, you’re saving anywhere from 1 inch to 1 1/2 inches of space as opposed to having the plywood sides’ edges visible from the front. I’m also considering adding a drawer below the Kreg bottom rails as a few folks have done. I may just attach a new drawer box cabinet to the bottom of your assembly through the holes in the bottom rails. Or I may well just forgo a new drawer box/cabinet and just hang a drawer below the rail the same way as the one above the rail. I love Kreg’s universal tables. However, they put the bottom rail higher than Rockler does on theirs. It makes the stand extremely rigid, but it’s a little tougher to design around it. Again many thanks to you and all the folks on UA-cam that contribute their time and make fantastic woodworking videos.
Mike I think what I like the most is the simplicity of the project and relatively few materials. Using pocket holes for the joinery really speeds it up and after all, it is shop furniture. Even at that it looks terrific. I have a Rockler hose splitter so I’ll probably bring my 4 inch hose from my harbor freight dust collector into the back and then split off the 2 1/2 inch hose to the fence. My only question regarding dust collection, and you’ve probably been asked this before, do you feel you’re getting good airflow through that fairly sealed box. I want to make sure that my router doesn’t overheat. It’s the fine dust of course that I’m trying to capture. I’m assuming that you have to fairly frequently vacuum out some of the bigger chips that fall to the bottom of the dust collection area? Again, great job!
I have been researching for months trying to find the right cabinet for me, and this is it! I have the same Kreg system but am a woodworking newcomer so am not confident in building from scratch. Thank you so much, Mike! I am curious, though. Why not build a drawer for the bottom, under the angle iron leg bracing? Oh, the storage there would be!
So glad it will help you out Mary Ann! I didn't add a drawer to the bottom just to leave space for feet (standing at/ running boards through the router) and to be able to adjust the height of the table if I needed to down the road 👍🏻👍🏻
@@WoodshopMike I uploaded some pics on the Buildsomething site. I'd love to hear what you think. I used ply instead of plexi for the router cover. I also did alot of internal tweaking up near the top, under the router plate, to prevent dust from getting into the drawers. I didn't take any pics of that part. Basically tried by best to enclose it right to the very top of the table.
After looking at other router table storage videos on UA-cam, I decided I liked yours the best. I started building my Kreg table storage and I'm almost finished. I was able to figure out any details that your video didn't include, but one question remains about the foam router bit organizer. It's 6" wide but the small drawers are less than that. Did you trim it to fit the small drawers, or do you keep them in the large drawer? Thanks again, great design!
So glad you like the approach I took and that it could help you out! Originally there were fully detailed plans on Kreg's site, but between me having a HD failure and Kreg doing a site migration (and which file was lost in the transfer? lol) those have long since been lost. Glad you were able to figure out the particulars! To answer your question though, I think I did trim down the foam blocks 👍
I'm just watching the video and it seems nice, but putting the in the draw slides for the left and right drawers may be a challenge. I noticed you used a "Ridged Palm Impact Screwdriver Kit". that is not available. I'll have to check the dimensions or a work around for that before/if I use this plan. It is a nice plan, hope I can make it work.
Glad you like the design! There are other small impact drivers available, but you could also use a right angle drill attachment to get into the tight spots.
Thank you very much Casey! I'm enjoying this new format. I'll likely sprinkle in a few video like that and with just give over in the coming months to see what folks prefer. I'm really excited about the addition! Thanks again 👍🏻😃
Thanks Mike. I’m new to this so please forgive my question - I’ve noticed that there are gaps around the outside panels and the metal frame (see 6.22 for example). I know you get a nice flush finish by inserting the sides flush with the frame but is it worth it if even Woodshop Mike isn’t getting it to fit? ( it’s probably the frame). Mike did you fix this or get around it somehow in the end? Many thanks
I have my Kreg table orderer and looking at all the Kreg youtube cabinet and so far I like yours best you have some good ideas so I subscribe to you. Thank You Allan
That's awesome Allan! I have really enjoyed using the router table especially after outfitting it like this! Thank you for your encouragement and subscribing!!
Hi Mike. Trying to build one following your lead. How far apart on center should I set the vertical dividers? or what are the dimensions of the plastic door? Thanks.
Hey Mike! Thanks so much for this video and plans. I’m two-thirds of the way done with the build and it’s going well. Three questions: 1. How did you attach the vacuum Y-fitting to the router table? 2. How did you attach the router electrical cord to the router table? And finally, 3. I have a Kreg router lift holding my router in. It looks like you have the same? Will I be able to get my router back out for use without the table? Thanks so much!
Hi Mike. Thanks for the inspiration and well made video ! I'd like to know the length of the push to open hardware that you used? Being from Canada, I will need to source from another supplier.
Fantastic job! I've been drooling over Kreg's precision table for a long time... that height adjustment screw is sooo sweet. You made great use of those push-to-open slides - that makes those fronts look so clean! I'm going to have to use those in my next project.... If you see this & have time to reply: Where do you source your birch plywood? I love the look & reasonable pricing of birch, but it's been scarce in all my usual places (I live near Phoenix AZ - not sure if it's a regional / seasonal thing or what...). Thanks for the great ideas!
Hi thank you so much for watching and commenting! I'm glad you like the upgrades 😃. The Kreg router table is indeed a sweet piece of equipment and very well thought out. I love the push to open hardware too! I get my plywood from a supplier in Atlanta GA sorry I'm not much help for you there.
Some have expressed concern about it overheating when closed in like this, but I've run the router for long sessions cutting raised panels and other heavy operations without any ill effects. I'm personally not worried about. Also, when a vacuum is hooked up to the table and is running for dust collection, it's forcing air to move by the router. Hope that helps and welcome to the hobby that will steal all of your free time :)
Mike, how do you like your Shark Guard riving knife and blade guard? I am thinking about getting one for a table saw I recently got, but am not sure. If the hassle of adjusting it all of the time limits it’s usefulness. Thanks
I had a shark guard splitter on a previous day and liked it. When I acquired my current saw, I wanted to get another splitter. I only got the guard because of the integrated dust collection. I will say that it makes a noticeable difference in the dust collection. Yeah it's a hassle some times adjusting the splitter, but I think it's worth it. Also, the adjustability is more a factor of the design of my saw and not the shark guard.
Mike, this is great. Thanks for doing this. I have a Woodpecker/Kreg PRL v2 router lift with a Porter Cable 3hp motor. Should your center section fit that?
@@WoodshopMike Thanks for the fast reply! Actually, mine is a Kreg lift also, but this is the PRL lift that they cobranded which was made by Woodpeckers. Mine has the fast raise feature and the thumb wheel on top for fine adjustments. Does yours have the crank on top like Jessem? They’re probably about the same size. I’m just going to build the project and if I need to modify the plans by an inch I will. I’m currently using the Rockler dust bucket, which is nice, but I think I can save some space by enclosing and sealing that area like you have done. I like the magnetic acrylic cover. I’ve already got all of the plywood and even the Rockler Y splitter dust collection stuff. I’m going to probably add one thing to your plans as. I’m going to use that space below the bottom rails and add another big drawer down there. I’m also thinking of substituting true quarter inch white pegboard which I have for the two side panels, but we’ll see how that works out. Again thanks to people like you for your contributions. You inspire and greatly help the rest of us.
I'm looking forward to building this for my router table. I do have one question though, your plans call for 1/2'" plywood but, in your video it appears that you've used 3/4" plywood. I'd like to do it with 1/2" plywood but,, pocket screws are sometime problematic with 1/2 plywood. Will 1/2" plywood really work?
Hi Mike. Very much like the approach and design here. One question; there was no indication of a 'top' to the internal cabinet-space. If that's the case, how were the small verticals (that flank the router itself, and define one-half of the upper drawer sides) anchored at the top - or was that not an issue. Pocket holes are great, but did you not see some 'play' in the verticals - especially near their tops? Thanks! [Bill]
Hi Bill, thank you very much for the complements! I in fact did not attach the top of the vertical pieces beside the router to anything. They are sort of wedged between the router table frame and the piece they're screwed. The drawers beside them also help to hold them in place 👍🏻👍🏻 hopefully that all made sense 😂😂
It does indeed, with thanks for the speedy reply. I can see how the (Outer > Inner) Spacer/Drawer Slide/Drawer/Slide would provide a connection to the inner wall of the cabinet, and some stability in that way. The use of Plywood (eg. Baltic Birch, as you suggest) with some veneer-layer consistency and density would be desired and important. I’ve tried pocket-hole joinery with cheap 1/2” plywood, and the results weren’t impressive! Look forward to future offerings from your site!
Hi, are you getting any dust in your top drawers at all? Building on my own table realized that you can’t go up to the top with the sides that separate the top drawers. Just wondered how you were able to deal with that if it’s an issue. Thanks
Hi Phil, Nope, I'm not having issues with that! I may go ahead and add some 1/4" ply to the inside of the vertical dividers though as under the right conditions dust could absolutely get in there. This will help to improve the dust collection. Mike
Does your Router have the Kreg Lift in it as well? I can't tell from the video. I have the lift and am wondering if your plans will still work with the lift in it.
Great question! The router lift is completely removable from the table 👍amzn.to/43DZU6x Looks like it's currently out of stock, but that's the one I'm using
For 600.00 Kreg's table should have came this way built. Nice job but it would have been nice to see the bottom drawer being built. I hit the link for the drawer slides and couldn't find the one's you used.
Thanks. The slides I used are by accuride. They're the "push to open" style. Googling might be the faster way to find them than searching around on their site. Good luck 👍
That is a great point and honestly not something I considered. However, I'm not particularly concerned because the vacuum will be providing air circulation. Have you had any issues with routers overheating in the past?
I suppose if you're doing long routing sessions, you could pop the front cover off, for full ventilation. I've seen other videos suggest having open ports for air intake, so why not the front door? I'm thinking of cutting some slots in the door, to allow faster air intake.
Hi -does anybody have the detailed plans (measurements listed, detail step by step, etc.)? Mike had a hard drive failure and no longer has them and Kreg migrated their site and no longer has. I bought all the parts and cut all the pieces but now I’m stuck without a way to accurately assess proper placing of the various components. Any help is much appreciated!
I am sorry but since your video does not explain it, i was hoping your written version would shed some light, but nope. To make it useful to anyone else you need to include information like: how are the middle dividers attached, are they attached into the table top? what about the 2 C channels in the table that will be in the way how did you attach if at all the side and back panels? I rather have this info or at least show this in video, the bracket for power switch i can figure out on my own.
Am I missing something ? In the plans I can't see assembly instructions. No order to do things, measurements, cut out sizes etc. All I get for the first part of the build is cut the parts as per plan. Then I get.... ........................................... Building Out Router Table Base This is undoubtedly the most cumbersome step of the entire project! But don't worry, it's not all that bad. The biggest thing that helped was using my BESSEY Trigger clamps to help hold everything in place during assembly. ........................................... Next step is the switch...
Oh geez! Yes there is some stuff missing currently. Kreg recently migrated from their old site and they have yet to get the pdf plans on the new site. If you want to send me an email at mike@woodshopmike.com I'll shoot over the plans as soon as possible. Also, the steps on Kreg's site seem to be missing some details. Hit up my site linked in the description. Hope that'll help out! Let me know if you have questions and thanks for watching👍
I had the same issue and questions. I sent an email about 5 days ago and haven’t heard back. I have cut my base cabinet pieces and ready to install but would like to have the dimensions to make sure I space the dividers properly for the drawers. Thanks!
@@WoodshopMike I’m not sure if my last post will get to you. Any help you can give to provide the more detailed build instructions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Actually, not a good video or plans. You should redo both. Complete lack of direction. Had to figure out almost everything on my own. For example, how far over do you put the center dividers? How high up do you put the bottom horizontal support? I could go on forever. Really, try to do better. I would have been better just building my own specs rather than following your cut list with no directions, other than a cut list. Again, do better.
thanks for sharing...first time viewer, have my first router still in its box...just learning what would work better for me, a beginner woodworker not afraid to get his hands dirty
Absolutely and welcome to the channel! Have fun making dust and hit me up if you have questions!
Regards,
Mike
I used this video to build my cabinet for the Kreygrouter table. I put added a drawer underneath the cross beam. I also deviated by mounting the on/off switch on the left side using 3/4" by3/4" metal L brackets from Ace hardware to mount the switch. I screwed the L bracket in the holes already in the table frame using a wood screw. Using the hardware that came with the switch I then passed the bolt through the L bracket , through the plastic wing of the switch and then into the nut and tightened. I had shaved off the triangular wings on the switch when trying to make the plywood brackets shown here and was having no luck. You will not need to cut of those triangular supports if you use the L brackets as they fit nicely into that space in the switch. This is a nice build, Takes a little more time than you would think, The corners inside the metal frame are curved and not perfectly square. I had to measure and cut the same piece a few times to get it together correctly without creating some wonky angles inside the cabinet. Did have to shim a few glides. With all that said this video was great inspiration to finally get this job done.
Nice job on making use of all of that empty space under the table's surface. Love the "push to open" slides for the drawers.
Thank you so much! Yes, I love the push to open slides!
Mike, you did a really nice job on this build! I’m looking at the same thing myself for my Kreg router table which I’ve had for several years. Couple of things about your design I really like are the clear acrylic dust compartment cover that goes on with magnets as well as the ease and low profile of the push to open drawer slides. On another universal table where I added drawers, I found that a regular construction 2x4 fills the space perfectly on the left and right sides for the drawer runners. Cheaper than plywood and no need to laminate. I will probably have to modify your plan just a little bit because I currently have a Rockler dust box that takes up a lot of room. I am considering removing it and just letting the project be its own dust box like you did. I’ll still have to slightly widen the center section as my Woodpeckers PRL-V2 is a little over 8 inches wide.
I know that some similar plans call for designing the entire assembly outside of the table and just pushing it into place. I like the way you made it, which is the way I am planning to make it. By designing the right and left “sides” of the assembly inside the steel legs, you’re saving anywhere from 1 inch to 1 1/2 inches of space as opposed to having the plywood sides’ edges visible from the front. I’m also considering adding a drawer below the Kreg bottom rails as a few folks have done. I may just attach a new drawer box cabinet to the bottom of your assembly through the holes in the bottom rails. Or I may well just forgo a new drawer box/cabinet and just hang a drawer below the rail the same way as the one above the rail. I love Kreg’s universal tables. However, they put the bottom rail higher than Rockler does on theirs. It makes the stand extremely rigid, but it’s a little tougher to design around it.
Again many thanks to you and all the folks on UA-cam that contribute their time and make fantastic woodworking videos.
So glad you enjoyed the video! This has been a great upgrade to ask already awesome router table! Cheers👍🏻👍🏻
Mike I think what I like the most is the simplicity of the project and relatively few materials. Using pocket holes for the joinery really speeds it up and after all, it is shop furniture. Even at that it looks terrific. I have a Rockler hose splitter so I’ll probably bring my 4 inch hose from my harbor freight dust collector into the back and then split off the 2 1/2 inch hose to the fence. My only question regarding dust collection, and you’ve probably been asked this before, do you feel you’re getting good airflow through that fairly sealed box. I want to make sure that my router doesn’t overheat. It’s the fine dust of course that I’m trying to capture. I’m assuming that you have to fairly frequently vacuum out some of the bigger chips that fall to the bottom of the dust collection area? Again, great job!
I do get asked that frequently. I have had zero issues with the router overheating👍🏻
Excellent work all around.
Thank you very much!
Our 3832ETR light-duty slides look amazing in this build! Thanks for sharing 👏👏
Yeah they do! I love not having drawer pulls sticking out to catch my pants on too 😃😃
I have been researching for months trying to find the right cabinet for me, and this is it! I have the same Kreg system but am a woodworking newcomer so am not confident in building from scratch. Thank you so much, Mike! I am curious, though. Why not build a drawer for the bottom, under the angle iron leg bracing? Oh, the storage there would be!
So glad it will help you out Mary Ann! I didn't add a drawer to the bottom just to leave space for feet (standing at/ running boards through the router) and to be able to adjust the height of the table if I needed to down the road 👍🏻👍🏻
Hey Mike. I finished this build (with a few minor deviations). Thanks for the plans, and the support. I love the finished product.
That's awesome! I'd love to know what you changed for your build 👍🏻
@@WoodshopMike I uploaded some pics on the Buildsomething site. I'd love to hear what you think. I used ply instead of plexi for the router cover. I also did alot of internal tweaking up near the top, under the router plate, to prevent dust from getting into the drawers. I didn't take any pics of that part. Basically tried by best to enclose it right to the very top of the table.
Oh right on! Yeah I have the router box fully enclosed as well 👍🏻 can't be havin' dust in your drawers 😂😂
Excellent project there Mike! My search ends here. Thanks for the free plans
Thank you very much! I don't believe the free plans are up on Kregs site any longer, but the layout is relatively straight forward.
You make it look easy. Thank you.
Thanks! Hope it was helpful👍😃
Wow! Thank you for the quick reply. Now I know what my project for next week is. Thank you.
You're welcome! Happy building 🔨🔨
Great storage solution. I need to do the same to my router table. Thanks for sharing. I’m subscribing to see more.
Thanks Don! Welcome to the channel 😃
After looking at other router table storage videos on UA-cam, I decided I liked yours the best. I started building my Kreg table storage and I'm almost finished. I was able to figure out any details that your video didn't include, but one question remains about the foam router bit organizer. It's 6" wide but the small drawers are less than that. Did you trim it to fit the small drawers, or do you keep them in the large drawer? Thanks again, great design!
So glad you like the approach I took and that it could help you out! Originally there were fully detailed plans on Kreg's site, but between me having a HD failure and Kreg doing a site migration (and which file was lost in the transfer? lol) those have long since been lost. Glad you were able to figure out the particulars!
To answer your question though, I think I did trim down the foam blocks 👍
Great job Mike. Really nice cabinet to store everything in.
Hey thanks Chad! I'm really happy with the results 👍🏻
I'm just watching the video and it seems nice, but putting the in the draw slides for the left and right drawers may be a challenge. I noticed you used a "Ridged Palm Impact Screwdriver Kit". that is not available. I'll have to check the dimensions or a work around for that before/if I use this plan. It is a nice plan, hope I can make it work.
Glad you like the design! There are other small impact drivers available, but you could also use a right angle drill attachment to get into the tight spots.
Nice build!
Thank you!
Great video Mike! I really like all the features and instructions as you went along. That cabinet/table turned out awesome. Keep it up!
Thank you very much Casey! I'm enjoying this new format. I'll likely sprinkle in a few video like that and with just give over in the coming months to see what folks prefer.
I'm really excited about the addition! Thanks again 👍🏻😃
Thanks Mike.
I’m new to this so please forgive my question - I’ve noticed that there are gaps around the outside panels and the metal frame (see 6.22 for example). I know you get a nice flush finish by inserting the sides flush with the frame but is it worth it if even Woodshop Mike isn’t getting it to fit? ( it’s probably the frame).
Mike did you fix this or get around it somehow in the end?
Many thanks
Great video! I need to do something like this for my router table
Thank you Jesse! I've been itching to do this for a while 😃
I need to *get* a router table! 😣
@@IsaKocoglu I did without one for many years so I feel your pain!
I have my Kreg table orderer and looking at all the Kreg youtube cabinet and so far I like yours best you have some good ideas so I subscribe to you. Thank You Allan
That's awesome Allan! I have really enjoyed using the router table especially after outfitting it like this! Thank you for your encouragement and subscribing!!
Nice job on the router table storage Mike! Thanks for sharing the video with us.💖👌👍😎JP
Thank you very much JP! Glad you enjoyed the video! 👍🏻😃
Your very welcome Mike! Have a great weekend! 😎
What is the measurements for the drawer slides to attach to the shims, and the lower drawer
Hi Mike. Trying to build one following your lead. How far apart on center should I set the vertical dividers? or what are the dimensions of the plastic door? Thanks.
Very cool project and very well done, what is the length of the draw runners?
Thank you! 11" is what's coming to mind, but I'm not 100%
Nice job
Thank you!
Great build! Thank you for sharing 😉👍
Thank you very much!
Whoops. Never mind I found my answer below. Thanks
Dennis
Glad I could help! 😃😃
nice project! great video, and excellent explanation. thank you for sharing it with us! Cheers
Thank you so much! Glad you enjoyed the video 👍🏻👍🏻
Do you have a link to the draw slides that you used for this project the push to open and closed ones? What a great design!
Thank you very much! I don't have a link, I bought them from Accuride. Their site is kinda wonky to pull links from otherwise I would have.
Great share!
Thank you!
Hey Mike! Thanks so much for this video and plans. I’m two-thirds of the way done with the build and it’s going well. Three questions:
1. How did you attach the vacuum Y-fitting to the router table?
2. How did you attach the router electrical cord to the router table? And finally,
3. I have a Kreg router lift holding my router in. It looks like you have the same? Will I be able to get my router back out for use without the table?
Thanks so much!
I was thinking the same thing when I watched it but then remembered that it comes out from the top.
Hi Mike. Thanks for the inspiration and well made video ! I'd like to know the length of the push to open hardware that you used? Being from Canada, I will need to source from another supplier.
Hi Frank, your're welcome & thank you very much! I used 18" slides from Accuride.
How did you close the gap in frame in the dust collection area?
You can use spray foam and trim it back or cut some pieces to fit and caulk them.
you can fit one more drawer under that bottom drawer.
Sure can! A fair number of folks add that 👍👊
Fantastic job! I've been drooling over Kreg's precision table for a long time... that height adjustment screw is sooo sweet. You made great use of those push-to-open slides - that makes those fronts look so clean! I'm going to have to use those in my next project.... If you see this & have time to reply: Where do you source your birch plywood? I love the look & reasonable pricing of birch, but it's been scarce in all my usual places (I live near Phoenix AZ - not sure if it's a regional / seasonal thing or what...). Thanks for the great ideas!
Hi thank you so much for watching and commenting! I'm glad you like the upgrades 😃. The Kreg router table is indeed a sweet piece of equipment and very well thought out. I love the push to open hardware too!
I get my plywood from a supplier in Atlanta GA sorry I'm not much help for you there.
With the router enclosed in that small of an area, doesn't heat become a problem?
Dennis
I've not had any trouble with heat 👍
nice
Thank you!
Hey Mike - amazing work, but I am curious on which router did you use for the Kreg Router Table?
Thank you very much! I used the big Porter Cable router👍🏻👍🏻
I am a beginner and have the Kreg Table with a Bosch router....and am wondering if there is a down-side to framing-in the router like this?
Some have expressed concern about it overheating when closed in like this, but I've run the router for long sessions cutting raised panels and other heavy operations without any ill effects. I'm personally not worried about. Also, when a vacuum is hooked up to the table and is running for dust collection, it's forcing air to move by the router. Hope that helps and welcome to the hobby that will steal all of your free time :)
Hi Mike. I'm curious if you used any fasteners to secure the sides and bottom panels, and if so, what/where?
I didn't use any actually. After the internal pieces were in place there was no need to secure the outside panels 👍🏻👍🏻
Mike, how do you like your Shark Guard riving knife and blade guard? I am thinking about getting one for a table saw I recently got, but am not sure. If the hassle of adjusting it all of the time limits it’s usefulness. Thanks
I had a shark guard splitter on a previous day and liked it. When I acquired my current saw, I wanted to get another splitter. I only got the guard because of the integrated dust collection. I will say that it makes a noticeable difference in the dust collection. Yeah it's a hassle some times adjusting the splitter, but I think it's worth it. Also, the adjustability is more a factor of the design of my saw and not the shark guard.
Hi Mike, Quick question...What bit are you using to cut the dado's into the drawer sides to accept the bottoms?
I believe it's a 1/4" Freud upcut bit.
Great video!! Do you have a link or info on the router bit you use to get your grove for the drawer bottoms? Thanks!!
Mike, this is great. Thanks for doing this. I have a Woodpecker/Kreg PRL v2 router lift with a Porter Cable 3hp motor. Should your center section fit that?
Thank you Steven! I have the Kreg lift in this table with the big PC router. I'm not sure about the dimensions of the Woodpecker lift though.
@@WoodshopMike Thanks for the fast reply! Actually, mine is a Kreg lift also, but this is the PRL lift that they cobranded which was made by Woodpeckers. Mine has the fast raise feature and the thumb wheel on top for fine adjustments. Does yours have the crank on top like Jessem? They’re probably about the same size. I’m just going to build the project and if I need to modify the plans by an inch I will. I’m currently using the Rockler dust bucket, which is nice, but I think I can save some space by enclosing and sealing that area like you have done. I like the magnetic acrylic cover. I’ve already got all of the plywood and even the Rockler Y splitter dust collection stuff. I’m going to probably add one thing to your plans as. I’m going to use that space below the bottom rails and add another big drawer down there. I’m also thinking of substituting true quarter inch white pegboard which I have for the two side panels, but we’ll see how that works out. Again thanks to people like you for your contributions. You inspire and greatly help the rest of us.
I'm looking forward to building this for my router table. I do have one question though, your plans call for 1/2'" plywood but, in your video it appears that you've used 3/4" plywood. I'd like to do it with 1/2" plywood but,, pocket screws are sometime problematic with 1/2 plywood. Will 1/2" plywood really work?
Hey Dennis,
I used 1/2" just like I laid out in the plans 👍🏻👍🏻.
Hi Mike, what is the height of your support blocks for the initial drawers? Does it matter?
Nope it doesn't really matter 👍🏻
Hi Mike. Very much like the approach and design here. One question; there was no indication of a 'top' to the internal cabinet-space. If that's the case, how were the small verticals (that flank the router itself, and define one-half of the upper drawer sides) anchored at the top - or was that not an issue. Pocket holes are great, but did you not see some 'play' in the verticals - especially near their tops? Thanks! [Bill]
Hi Bill, thank you very much for the complements! I in fact did not attach the top of the vertical pieces beside the router to anything. They are sort of wedged between the router table frame and the piece they're screwed. The drawers beside them also help to hold them in place 👍🏻👍🏻 hopefully that all made sense 😂😂
It does indeed, with thanks for the speedy reply. I can see how the (Outer > Inner) Spacer/Drawer Slide/Drawer/Slide would provide a connection to the inner wall of the cabinet, and some stability in that way. The use of Plywood (eg. Baltic Birch, as you suggest) with some veneer-layer consistency and density would be desired and important. I’ve tried pocket-hole joinery with cheap 1/2” plywood, and the results weren’t impressive! Look forward to future offerings from your site!
Yes, cheap plywood is quite difficult to use pocket holes on for sure! Thank you very much for being a part of this channel!
Please take note that the large Drawer Box Face should be 23-3/4"
I have the same table and somewhat of the same build, are you not worried about the router overheating? I have much more room around router.
I've not had any issues with it overheating even with long sessions running large panel bits
Hi, are you getting any dust in your top drawers at all? Building on my own table realized that you can’t go up to the top with the sides that separate the top drawers. Just wondered how you were able to deal with that if it’s an issue. Thanks
Hi Phil,
Nope, I'm not having issues with that! I may go ahead and add some 1/4" ply to the inside of the vertical dividers though as under the right conditions dust could absolutely get in there. This will help to improve the dust collection.
Mike
hi how do you find yourself with this router table? you suggest that?
I am in the Atlanta area as well. Where do you get your birch plywood?
Oh right on! I go to Peach State Lumber 👍🏻
Does your Router have the Kreg Lift in it as well? I can't tell from the video. I have the lift and am wondering if your plans will still work with the lift in it.
Hi Mark! Yes, I'm using the Kreg Precision Router lift as well 👍🏻👍🏻
@@WoodshopMike Great! I may be changing up what I have currently.
Now, how do you get to your router if you need to remove it?
Great question! The router lift is completely removable from the table 👍amzn.to/43DZU6x
Looks like it's currently out of stock, but that's the one I'm using
For 600.00 Kreg's table should have came this way built.
Nice job but it would have been nice to see the bottom drawer being built.
I hit the link for the drawer slides and couldn't find the one's you used.
Thanks. The slides I used are by accuride. They're the "push to open" style. Googling might be the faster way to find them than searching around on their site. Good luck 👍
@@WoodshopMike ... I searched using your link ? That didn't go nowhere.
how did you secure the vertical panels to the top? i see there are pocket holes in the bottom panels, but how did you secure them at the top?
I don't remember actually securing them. If I recall, everything is tight enough that screws weren't needed.
@@WoodshopMike thx
Mike, I realize space is at a premium on that table, but are you not concerned with heat build up in such a tight space where the router is located?
That is a great point and honestly not something I considered. However, I'm not particularly concerned because the vacuum will be providing air circulation. Have you had any issues with routers overheating in the past?
@@WoodshopMike I have not but I have mine in an open table
@@aam21spsl I hear ya. I ran mine without the cabinets built around it for a few months. I'll let you know if I have any trouble though 👍🏻
I suppose if you're doing long routing sessions, you could pop the front cover off, for full ventilation. I've seen other videos suggest having open ports for air intake, so why not the front door? I'm thinking of cutting some slots in the door, to allow faster air intake.
You absolutely could!
Hi -does anybody have the detailed plans (measurements listed, detail step by step, etc.)? Mike had a hard drive failure and no longer has them and Kreg migrated their site and no longer has. I bought all the parts and cut all the pieces but now I’m stuck without a way to accurately assess proper placing of the various components. Any help is much appreciated!
The plans are available again from Kreg and Mike seems to have recovered his site
I am sorry but since your video does not explain it, i was hoping your written version would shed some light, but nope. To make it useful to anyone else you need to include information like: how are the middle dividers attached, are they attached into the table top? what about the 2 C channels in the table that will be in the way
how did you attach if at all the side and back panels? I rather have this info or at least show this in video, the bracket for power switch i can figure out on my own.
Am I missing something ? In the plans I can't see assembly instructions. No order to do things, measurements, cut out sizes etc. All I get for the first part of the build is cut the parts as per plan. Then I get....
...........................................
Building Out Router Table Base
This is undoubtedly the most cumbersome step of the entire project! But don't worry, it's not all that bad. The biggest thing
that helped was using my BESSEY Trigger clamps to help hold everything in place during assembly.
...........................................
Next step is the switch...
Oh geez! Yes there is some stuff missing currently. Kreg recently migrated from their old site and they have yet to get the pdf plans on the new site. If you want to send me an email at mike@woodshopmike.com I'll shoot over the plans as soon as possible. Also, the steps on Kreg's site seem to be missing some details. Hit up my site linked in the description. Hope that'll help out! Let me know if you have questions and thanks for watching👍
@@WoodshopMike Thanks so much for the reply.. All good ... I have adapted my dust collection system under the router table.. Love your channel.. !!!
You're welcome 👍
Thank you so much! Glad to have you here!
I had the same issue and questions. I sent an email about 5 days ago and haven’t heard back. I have cut my base cabinet pieces and ready to install but would like to have the dimensions to make sure I space the dividers properly for the drawers. Thanks!
@@WoodshopMike I’m not sure if my last post will get to you. Any help you can give to provide the more detailed build instructions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Actually, not a good video or plans. You should redo both. Complete lack of direction. Had to figure out almost everything on my own. For example, how far over do you put the center dividers? How high up do you put the bottom horizontal support? I could go on forever. Really, try to do better. I would have been better just building my own specs rather than following your cut list with no directions, other than a cut list. Again, do better.
Sorry Mike, great build but HORRIBLE instructions 😂
Glad you enjoyed it👍. Yep the instructions for lost. Oh well🤷