FINALLY!!!!! It's about time, THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU. Last year I was so desperate and had no help. I did do my belt for the first time, but did not know how to adjust the intake and exhaust which were both out of sync slightly. In the end I still had to take it to a mechanic to adjust it at a painful cost. Knowing I was so close to understanding this made the experience even more difficult to digest. Hopefully I can find a crank lock as I didn't have one, without it it takes a long time.
looking for information on a camshaft sensor change on my 147 2.0TS after being diagnosed and going into limp mode... your video not only showed the location and what needs to be removed to get to it but also showed how easy it can get damaged by a (mis-shaped)bad pulley on the back. I will also now be doing the cambelt change along with all the other parts that make sense while doing so. A great video that goes beyond just doing the job... doing it with precision and care...what all Alfa's need.👍
Thanks Bruno, another great do it yourself video, beware of engines that have white timing marks, cam locks must be used for an accurate job to be done.
I was completely confused how to set timing after rebuilding the head of my 147 1.6 ts... But with your video it all makes sense! Ordered the tools now. Muito obrigado!
Thanks Bruno, I've done a TS belt before but didn't appreciate the need for further checks to be done. I'll do it better next time with your education. Thank you for making this video.
@thomass8118 hello. It will move wildly when the engine is spinning, even by and. It's normal. It's dinamic. But it should be in the correct spot once you time it slowly
I typed a great long comment about timing marks but it hasn’t appeared. Weird, but I’ve had this a couple of times on YT lately. Anyhoo, I’ll try again! Bruno, your main point about understanding is key. I had a 12 valve Bussu in a 164 many years back where the timing mark on the cam cap was 1 tooth out. Those marks always looked hand-done to me! Long story short, after much time and messing, I went back to basics and timed it using valve lift and crank position from the cam data and that sorted it. I later came across the template you can use on the camwheel marks. So much better, and always accurate as those are machined in.
Hello. Thank you very much for watching! I think you told me that story last year when I did the timing correction on the 164 turbo. The black one. I do have another one here with backfire to the intake. It's being difficult to sort it out. Timing checked by the way
That Jim guy was a lousy mechanic. The worst thing about every job is fixing the previous persons bad workmanship. If you don't know how to do something, then ask, otherwise you will never learn to DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE. Another great explanation. Looking forward to the autopsy. Thank you.
Enjoyed this video a lot even though I'm no mechanic. Easy to follow as it's done with the engine out, which is a great advantage when it comes to showing how it's done. Must be a pig of a job with the engine in.
Hello. Thank you very much for watching! With practice is very easy to do in place, I do it in one hour or two. Good access. Thank you very much for watching, and please share this.
Oi Bruno! About the crankshaft locking tool: I have an Alfa Romeo 147 1.6 T.Spark Eco 77 kW/105 hp and I don't think the crankshaft locking tool you showed ─ or any crankshaft locking tool for that matter ─ can be used with this particular engine to determine TDC. Can you confirm this? By the way, I have watched many others of your videos and learned a lot of them! Obrigado from the Netherlands
Hello. The eco engine doesn't exist here in Portugal, I do not have any experience on it.. sorry. But being similar to the 120hp, I believe it should be the same. Now the cam locks, those may be different.
I had to replace camshaft sensor on my 2.0 jts, did it myself, but now, as I saw your video, next job will be the replacing of timing belt, as I have the spare parts for almost a year !Hopefully I will make it ok! I have 2.0 jts cam lock tools and I was wondering if the crankshaft locking tool is common for 2.0 engines!
Hi, great instructional videos! Any idea what could be causing a build up of cambelt dust (esp around the tensioner) soon after a 166 3.0 v6 skf cambelt kit change? Engine runs fine but belt seems tight even with tensioner set correctly, so that upper fixed idler has thrown its grease out. I can't see any obvious errors.
@@alfaromeonoproblem Hello and thanks for the response. The inner edge of the belt has a very slight wear from touching the tensioner guide but otherwise ok (after 3 months/1000km). I swapped out the belt kit as soon as I saw the ejected grease from the failed idler; when I took off the tensioner I saw dust all over it. I fitted a new SKF belt kit 10 days ago and have just checked behind the covers and the dust is back! Also the belt makings are imprinted on the roller bearings again. 2nd kit was definately not too tight - did a dynamic test to view pointer position. Unlikely 2 belt kits are defective from different suppliers. Any bad fitting techniques could cause this? Surely this is mea culpa? Getting despondent. Just ordered a 3rd kit, Gates.
@@alfaromeonoproblem I posted a couple of short vids that might explain: ua-cam.com/video/ZIOitJF-9-0/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared ua-cam.com/video/y4mFSzf-pRI/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared ua-cam.com/video/CTUvRSd4VQ4/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared ua-cam.com/users/shortsr1dvLih8NgA?feature=shared
@jameskirk7746 I'm just doing a video for the v6 24v for timing. I'm using Ina timing. It comes with ina pulleys and litens tensioner. Very hi quality. Make sure your tensioner is well fitted and not croken
Greetings from Greece! Very informative and excellent job! I do have few questions though; 1) what capacity is this TS? 1.6 or 1.8? 2)The crank locking tool is the same for all twinsparks?
Amazing work. The procedure is not simple and takes some time, so I bet that is why mechanics don't bother doing it and just do it close enough ("customers are too stupid to notice anyway, right?"). That is why it is worth doing it yourself (if you can) or pay it (an arm and a leg) to be done properly at the official dealer. I heard it is the similar procedure with the 1.75 TBi engines, and that is why most of them are out of phase usually as well? What about the 1.4 T-Jet (FIRE) engines though?
Hello. That is correct. This and other engines that require locking tools are often out of timing. Very unfortunate to happen, mainly when the technician knows he's cutting corners...
Brilliant. One question. After tensioning why did you not leave the cam sprockets to rotate without bolting and leave the cams in place and turn the engine over without cams , spread the belt tension and then tighten cams?
Good explanation, you are good technician, but I'm Italian and in my city, a few car repair mechanics use this method. They do by signs. How are the symptoms of a incorrect procedure, for example if the motor started even? Low power, detonation, or other?
Hello, thanks for watching! The symptoms of a out of timing engine are mainly: Low power at low revs Misfire and detonation Hi fuel consumption Engine light on and fault codes for rpm and cam sensor
Hello. What is the purpose of the green wrench you use when tensioning the tensioner ball of the timing belt? And can I get this key too? There is no Turkish option in the subtitle feature of the videos. That's why I'm having a hard time understanding. thanks.
Hello. There are two types of green wrench to use. One for the belt tensioner, the other one for the 2.0 that has the belt for the balancing shafts. That belt has a tensioner and with that a different wrench. The tools you can by online and it on a store for workshop tools.
Great video, I did the cambelt on my 2.0 Tspark again this weekend. There were lines on the belt which will align with the marks on the crankshaft and exhaust outlet pulley. What is the tool number to lock the crankshaft. I don't have that tool, I used a dti gauge and camlocks. After doing it I checked it after rotating the engine and it was spot on, it was slightly out before.
@@alfaromeonoproblem i looked again on your video and I think it's 2.000.003.000 it looks like it's stamped on your tool and with the wonder of Google it looks right!
Very nice and clear video, even for a beginner thank you! Just curious if you loosen the exhaust cam sprocket to use the play to tune, will the timing of the cam sensor also change?
Hi bruno! first of all thank you for helping us for another time! i'm planing to remove my cam shafts to change the valve sealants but i'm a litle bit nervus about the variator's position i understood all the things you tought us but i came across a question if i lock the intake camshaft and turn the pully how can i know if the part of the variator between the pully and camshaft dose not loose it's position (assuming the variator rotates freely with the camshafts removed from the cylinderhead) thank you for your time
@alfaromeonoproblem hi! The thing that make me nervus is if the variator it's self will rotate freely when i remove the belt, and if yes how can I know if it should be all the way left or right before start to adjust from the pully' screw at tdc
@@alfaromeonoproblem hi again than you for your time after watching many videos i Found that the position of the variator is locked (maybe by its internal spring)and does not rotate even if the cam shaft is out of the car so as you mention before there is no variator position, thank you again
@@alfaromeonoproblem thank you very much you are the best! i have already done the timing and now the car runs much smoother with better response on low rpm below 2000rpm
Hello. Here in Portugal diesel is king. 99% of Giuliettas are diesel. But I already did one 1750 gasoline. You have to have the lock tools. I hope I get one to do the video. But it may not happen.
Nice video. I need to get one of those crank looking tools. See that top engine bush on left that is broken. Can that be replaced with the engine in the car, if so how? Mine if worn out and needs replace. Is there an easy way to do it without removing the engine? Thanks for the videos! Damon
Hi man ! First I would like to thank you for your amazing explanations which I’ve followed perfectly to get the best synchronisation of this engine and now I know it’s the best way to do this job. Secondly, after doing this belt synchronisation 4 times perfectly with the engine running for over 30 minutes, after shutting off the engine, the intake cam only gets off (unsynchronized) about 3 to 4 teeth. I’ve redone it 3 times and always the same results… engine starts, run perfectly and at one point the synchronisation gets off only on the intake. Tensioner is new with the right belt tension. I don’t know what is wrong with this engine. Could you help me out to understand this problem please ? Thank you for doing those videos passionately 🙏
@ yes I’ve followed all your suggestions but I think I found the problem. The variator was not super tight on the cam shaft so when I was turning off the engine with the right synchronisation, it was pulling the pulley and the variator on the opposite side and un tightened the variator. Which explains why I would have only the intake out of timing. I’m trying tomorrow to tighten the variator with some loctite and I will post the update so if someone encounters this problem there will be my explanation
I think folk sometimes misunderstand what the 'cam locks' are actually for and use them to hold the cams when loosening/tightening the pulley bolts....which rips out the bolts holding the cam locks to the head because they don't go in far enough, hence the example here where someone had to change the bolts from M7 to M8. Don't know what else you could call them to try and avoid the confusion though!
@@alfaromeonoproblem 1.6Eco and the 1.6VVT also has different profile cams what if when the car owner has more duration, higher lift "tuned" camshafts? is it possibve to use the 2.0JTS cams in the 2.0TS head?
Hi! Thanks for amazing video!!! I’m trying to do correct synchronization on my 2.0 twin spark engine after changing timing belt and I really need your help :( No matter what I do…. exhaust cam is always shows bad on my cam tool. I’m using gauge and locking tool for TDC and I can achieve intake cam synchronization correctly. What I’m doing wrong? Maybe when I’m rotating engine back to TDC I screw something up? Btw to rotate engine back and avoid touching crankshaft nut, I’m using auxiliary belt pulley and hands (not sure if I can do this simply with my socket wrench) 😄
@@alfaromeonoproblem Yes. I do everything as you show in your video. I rotate the engine clockwise till my cam tool sits correctly on exhaust cam. Then I loosen exhaust sprocket and rotate engine with auxiliary belt pulley by hand back till I get TDC. Then I tighten the exhaust sprocket. After that I remove everything and try to rotate my engine clockwise once and I always get my exhaust cam off from timing tool by roughly 1 mm to the left... :(
My GTV 2.0 TS from 1996 Has a misfire at around 1300 rpm when cold, but good idle. But when warm it has misfire at 1300 rpm and 3000 rpm plus idle that goes up and down between around 800 to 900 rpm, it goes up and down at idle at a steady pace
@@alfaromeonoproblem The things i have tried so far: new timing belt and variator, took off the head and replaced burnt exhaust valve, replaced all the sensors, tried all the leads and so on from a working alfa gtv, checked exhaust for leaks. Cleaned throttle body, and even tried a second one. Tested for vacuum leaks with smoke, BUT i forgot to replace the crankshaft position sensor, so when i finally did replace it, it ran much much better, but then it started to run bad again. So i bought a second sensor and replaced it again, but this time it made no difference. Help me doctor! :)
I think you are over complicating it. I skimmed the head and changed all belts - really easy on this engine. It was my first engine too. Use the 145 manual and you can't go wrong. My engine has done 150k miles and no timing issues. Don't understand why you keep talking about snapping belts. Stop it!
I did not said anything about snapping belts. The factory did. And the purpose of this video is not only how to replace it, but also how to avoid miss fires and poor performance. The procedure on this video is the same that is on elearn
Best explanation on youtube. Made the job easier. Just like you said, checked the timing before replacing - intake was out! Thanks!
Wow! That is amazing, thank you very much for your support and your words. And of course for watching!
If I continue to watch these videos, I will begin to convince myself that I know what I am doing!
Hola ! The portugese not only know how to catch fish, no, they also know how to adjust engines ! Bravo ! Bravissimo !
Thanks for watching the video
super thanks for all the fast replys and assistance with your instruction
Thank you very much for the support!
FINALLY!!!!! It's about time, THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU.
Last year I was so desperate and had no help. I did do my belt for the first time, but did not know how to adjust the intake and exhaust which were both out of sync slightly. In the end I still had to take it to a mechanic to adjust it at a painful cost. Knowing I was so close to understanding this made the experience even more difficult to digest.
Hopefully I can find a crank lock as I didn't have one, without it it takes a long time.
Thank you very much for watching! Sorry for the delay and I hope this video has everything you need.
The best video I've seen on how to adjust the timing belt on an Alfa Romeo. Thank you very, very much.
Thank you very much for your support, and thanks for watching
looking for information on a camshaft sensor change on my 147 2.0TS after being diagnosed and going into limp mode... your video not only showed the location and what needs to be removed to get to it but also showed how easy it can get damaged by a (mis-shaped)bad pulley on the back. I will also now be doing the cambelt change along with all the other parts that make sense while doing so. A great video that goes beyond just doing the job... doing it with precision and care...what all Alfa's need.👍
I'm very glad this video was useful for you. I hope you can share it with your friends
Thanks Bruno, another great do it yourself video, beware of engines that have white timing marks, cam locks must be used for an accurate job to be done.
Thank you very much for watching.
One of the best videos! Very helpful. I just hope that our mechanics work the same way for our TS and JTS
Thank you very much for watching! Now you can spot if the mechanic is doing it good or not
I was completely confused how to set timing after rebuilding the head of my 147 1.6 ts... But with your video it all makes sense! Ordered the tools now.
Muito obrigado!
Thanks for watching. I'm glad it helped
Thanks Bruno, I've done a TS belt before but didn't appreciate the need for further checks to be done. I'll do it better next time with your education. Thank you for making this video.
Hello. Thank you very much for watching the video.
This is the best video on how to time a twinspark (and I've watched quite a few). Thank you!
Hello. Thank you very much for watching and for your support
@@alfaromeonoproblem No problem. Btw, any reason why a new tensioner would not hold it's tension? If set with the correct tool.
@thomass8118 hello. It will move wildly when the engine is spinning, even by and. It's normal. It's dinamic.
But it should be in the correct spot once you time it slowly
You have described it perfectly and easily understood, I changed my belt with this knowledge.
Thank you very much for your support. And thanks for watching
I typed a great long comment about timing marks but it hasn’t appeared. Weird, but I’ve had this a couple of times on YT lately. Anyhoo, I’ll try again!
Bruno, your main point about understanding is key. I had a 12 valve Bussu in a 164 many years back where the timing mark on the cam cap was 1 tooth out. Those marks always looked hand-done to me! Long story short, after much time and messing, I went back to basics and timed it using valve lift and crank position from the cam data and that sorted it. I later came across the template you can use on the camwheel marks. So much better, and always accurate as those are machined in.
Hello. Thank you very much for watching! I think you told me that story last year when I did the timing correction on the 164 turbo. The black one.
I do have another one here with backfire to the intake. It's being difficult to sort it out. Timing checked by the way
@@alfaromeonoproblem Ha! A very good chance I did :) I'm old :(
It may have been someone else, that happens a bit.
That Jim guy was a lousy mechanic. The worst thing about every job is fixing the previous persons bad workmanship. If you don't know how to do something, then ask, otherwise you will never learn
to DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE.
Another great explanation. Looking forward to the autopsy.
Thank you.
I will have more videos like this, on bad workmanship on the channel this year. I'm glad you are liking this videos
Enjoyed this video a lot even though I'm no mechanic. Easy to follow as it's done with the engine out, which is a great advantage when it comes to showing how it's done. Must be a pig of a job with the engine in.
Hello. Thank you very much for watching! With practice is very easy to do in place, I do it in one hour or two. Good access.
Thank you very much for watching, and please share this.
Oi Bruno!
About the crankshaft locking tool: I have an Alfa Romeo 147 1.6 T.Spark Eco 77 kW/105 hp and I don't think the crankshaft locking tool you showed ─ or any crankshaft locking tool for that matter ─ can be used with this particular engine to determine TDC. Can you confirm this?
By the way, I have watched many others of your videos and learned a lot of them!
Obrigado from the Netherlands
Hello. The eco engine doesn't exist here in Portugal, I do not have any experience on it.. sorry. But being similar to the 120hp, I believe it should be the same. Now the cam locks, those may be different.
Great content, thanks !
But when I look out for the crankshaft locking tool, it seems it is diesel only.
Am I missing something ?
I had to replace camshaft sensor on my 2.0 jts, did it myself, but now, as I saw your video, next job will be the replacing of timing belt, as I have the spare parts for almost a year !Hopefully I will make it ok! I have 2.0 jts cam lock tools and I was wondering if the crankshaft locking tool is common for 2.0 engines!
Hi, great instructional videos! Any idea what could be causing a build up of cambelt dust (esp around the tensioner) soon after a 166 3.0 v6 skf cambelt kit change? Engine runs fine but belt seems tight even with tensioner set correctly, so that upper fixed idler has thrown its grease out. I can't see any obvious errors.
Hello. A few years ago I saw some tensioners with problems, new they were croken and did just that. Is the belt straight?
@@alfaromeonoproblem Hello and thanks for the response. The inner edge of the belt has a very slight wear from touching the tensioner guide but otherwise ok (after 3 months/1000km). I swapped out the belt kit as soon as I saw the ejected grease from the failed idler; when I took off the tensioner I saw dust all over it. I fitted a new SKF belt kit 10 days ago and have just checked behind the covers and the dust is back! Also the belt makings are imprinted on the roller bearings again. 2nd kit was definately not too tight - did a dynamic test to view pointer position. Unlikely 2 belt kits are defective from different suppliers. Any bad fitting techniques could cause this? Surely this is mea culpa? Getting despondent. Just ordered a 3rd kit, Gates.
@@alfaromeonoproblem I posted a couple of short vids that might explain:
ua-cam.com/video/ZIOitJF-9-0/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared
ua-cam.com/video/y4mFSzf-pRI/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared
ua-cam.com/video/CTUvRSd4VQ4/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared
ua-cam.com/users/shortsr1dvLih8NgA?feature=shared
@jameskirk7746 I'm just doing a video for the v6 24v for timing. I'm using Ina timing. It comes with ina pulleys and litens tensioner. Very hi quality.
Make sure your tensioner is well fitted and not croken
Thank you Bruno for this video 🍀 soo much good stuff to know and learn from you You are the best !❤
Thank you very much. Please share with you friends.
Greetings from Greece! Very informative and excellent job! I do have few questions though;
1) what capacity is this TS? 1.6 or 1.8?
2)The crank locking tool is the same for all twinsparks?
Hello. This one is a 1.6, same locks as the 1.4
The locking toll is the same for all 4 and 5 gas and diesel engines
Amazing work. The procedure is not simple and takes some time, so I bet that is why mechanics don't bother doing it and just do it close enough ("customers are too stupid to notice anyway, right?"). That is why it is worth doing it yourself (if you can) or pay it (an arm and a leg) to be done properly at the official dealer.
I heard it is the similar procedure with the 1.75 TBi engines, and that is why most of them are out of phase usually as well? What about the 1.4 T-Jet (FIRE) engines though?
Hello. That is correct. This and other engines that require locking tools are often out of timing. Very unfortunate to happen, mainly when the technician knows he's cutting corners...
Brilliant.
One question. After tensioning why did you not leave the cam sprockets to rotate without bolting and leave the cams in place and turn the engine over without cams , spread the belt tension and then tighten cams?
I'm not sure i follow your question. Bur leaving the sprockets loose and rotating the engine can damage them and the valves
Hi. I found a link for the tools required but it never mentions a price. Do you happen to know how much the tools cost? Thanks!
Hello. My recommendation is no links... Go to a local store that sells you a good professional set.
Thanks for sharing this very informative video. A question: may we have misfire only because a bad spark plug, or a pair of them on a ts?
Hello. Yes, you can have that. At least one will do that
@@alfaromeonoproblem thanks for your fast reply.
Good explanation, you are good technician, but I'm Italian and in my city, a few car repair mechanics use this method. They do by signs. How are the symptoms of a incorrect procedure, for example if the motor started even?
Low power, detonation, or other?
Hello, thanks for watching! The symptoms of a out of timing engine are mainly:
Low power at low revs
Misfire and detonation
Hi fuel consumption
Engine light on and fault codes for rpm and cam sensor
Thank you. 👍@@alfaromeonoproblem
Hello. What is the purpose of the green wrench you use when tensioning the tensioner ball of the timing belt? And can I get this key too? There is no Turkish option in the subtitle feature of the videos. That's why I'm having a hard time understanding. thanks.
Hello. There are two types of green wrench to use. One for the belt tensioner, the other one for the 2.0 that has the belt for the balancing shafts. That belt has a tensioner and with that a different wrench.
The tools you can by online and it on a store for workshop tools.
There is no this key in my city. Is there a different way to stretch instead?
By the way, thank you for your reply.
I fitted the channel of the timing belt tensioner to the pull and then tightened the bolt by tensioning the ball with the help of a crowbar.
@kingissback yes, there is. Like I did on the jtd engine:
ua-cam.com/video/GYxaOI0P9zg/v-deo.htmlsi=CQo8_V5Dzzqirn06
Great video, I did the cambelt on my 2.0 Tspark again this weekend. There were lines on the belt which will align with the marks on the crankshaft and exhaust outlet pulley. What is the tool number to lock the crankshaft. I don't have that tool, I used a dti gauge and camlocks. After doing it I checked it after rotating the engine and it was spot on, it was slightly out before.
Hello. Thanks for watching.
Cannot tell the tool number now, but you can find it very easily on any workshop tool suppliers.
@@alfaromeonoproblem i looked again on your video and I think it's 2.000.003.000 it looks like it's stamped on your tool and with the wonder of Google it looks right!
Thank you man for the video! Great explanation
Thank you very much for watching
Very nice and clear video, even for a beginner thank you! Just curious if you loosen the exhaust cam sprocket to use the play to tune, will the timing of the cam sensor also change?
Hello. Yes, yes it will! One more reason why is so crucial to time it like this.
Thank you very much for watching
Thank you very much!@@alfaromeonoproblem
I have the same engine. Little bit of oil is dropping from engine on air conditioning compressor. What do you think is the problem?
Hello. If it is transparent or green oil, is the compressor itself. For that I have a video
Hi bruno! first of all thank you for helping us for another time! i'm planing to remove my cam shafts to change the valve sealants but i'm a litle bit nervus about the variator's position i understood all the things you tought us but i came across a question if i lock the intake camshaft and turn the pully how can i know if the part of the variator between the pully and camshaft dose not loose it's position (assuming the variator rotates freely with the camshafts removed from the cylinderhead) thank you for your time
Hello. I'm not sure I understand. The variator has no position.
@alfaromeonoproblem hi! The thing that make me nervus is if the variator it's self will rotate freely when i remove the belt, and if yes how can I know if it should be all the way left or right before start to adjust from the pully' screw at tdc
@@alfaromeonoproblem hi again than you for your time after watching many videos i Found that the position of the variator is locked (maybe by its internal spring)and does not rotate even if the cam shaft is out of the car so as you mention before there is no variator position, thank you again
@billtsig96 no issues, just proceed
@@alfaromeonoproblem thank you very much you are the best! i have already done the timing and now the car runs much smoother with better response on low rpm below 2000rpm
Хвала!
Thank you. Can you please do Giulietta 940 soon?
Hello. Here in Portugal diesel is king. 99% of Giuliettas are diesel. But I already did one 1750 gasoline. You have to have the lock tools.
I hope I get one to do the video. But it may not happen.
amazing ... good to know ... i will test timing on my 2L TS 156 ... fiat workshop did new timing belt 12 month ago :-)
Thank you very much for watching.
Get back to me with the result
This video is great…fabulous help. Thank you.
Thanks for watching
Please share with your friends
Nice video. I need to get one of those crank looking tools. See that top engine bush on left that is broken. Can that be replaced with the engine in the car, if so how? Mine if worn out and needs replace. Is there an easy way to do it without removing the engine? Thanks for the videos! Damon
Hello. Thanks for watching. There are some bushing removal tools to do it, not very hard.
@@alfaromeonoproblem Do you know where I can get them and send me a link please? Does the engine need to come out?
I have those tools on the workshop. I buy them in stores that supply tools for workshops
@@alfaromeonoproblem Okay thank you for the videos. You are the best.
Are the procedure and tools the same for cf3 engine?
It's the same for all series. Since the 145 (146, 147, 156) until the GT ( non jts version)
@@alfaromeonoproblem thanks and can i use the crank locking tool for 2.0ts on a 1.6? I cant find the tool for 1.6 engine
@leonperko7561 yes you can. Only the cam ones differ
Hi man ! First I would like to thank you for your amazing explanations which I’ve followed perfectly to get the best synchronisation of this engine and now I know it’s the best way to do this job.
Secondly, after doing this belt synchronisation 4 times perfectly with the engine running for over 30 minutes, after shutting off the engine, the intake cam only gets off (unsynchronized) about 3 to 4 teeth. I’ve redone it 3 times and always the same results… engine starts, run perfectly and at one point the synchronisation gets off only on the intake. Tensioner is new with the right belt tension. I don’t know what is wrong with this engine.
Could you help me out to understand this problem please ?
Thank you for doing those videos passionately 🙏
Hello, thank you very much for your support and for watching.
Maybe you have the wrong belt...
@ I’ve checked and it’s the right one with 163 tooth like the old one that was on the engine before
@nicolasbertet9949 that's odd. But do not check by the timing marks on the belt. Those will not align ever again
@ yes I’ve followed all your suggestions but I think I found the problem. The variator was not super tight on the cam shaft so when I was turning off the engine with the right synchronisation, it was pulling the pulley and the variator on the opposite side and un tightened the variator.
Which explains why I would have only the intake out of timing.
I’m trying tomorrow to tighten the variator with some loctite and I will post the update so if someone encounters this problem there will be my explanation
@nicolasbertet9949 that is quite odd..
thanks for the detailed video, really informative
Thank you very much
How about timing belt change on 12V V6 (turbo)? Greetings from Denmark
Hello. See if this helps:
ua-cam.com/video/tvowRWebTkY/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/Zxp7vFuNmUc/v-deo.html
@@alfaromeonoproblem Thanks Bruno - seen and understood!! It is for my 1996 GTV V6 TB.
Very good! I'm glad I could help
I bought my 2.4 with only 112k on the clock, but intake was already full with gunk. EGR was ok but blanked it together with dpf removal.
Hello. Thanks for sharing
Pure professional !
Thank you so much! I'm very glad you like it
I think folk sometimes misunderstand what the 'cam locks' are actually for and use them to hold the cams when loosening/tightening the pulley bolts....which rips out the bolts holding the cam locks to the head because they don't go in far enough, hence the example here where someone had to change the bolts from M7 to M8. Don't know what else you could call them to try and avoid the confusion though!
That's it basically. And also sometimes trying to bolt them down by force I think. Thanks for watching the video
the cam lobe's lift size are different on the 1.6-1.8-2.0TS engines
Hello. Yes, they are the same for 1.4 and 1.6 and the same for 1.8 and 2.0
@@alfaromeonoproblem 1.6Eco and the 1.6VVT also has different profile cams
what if when the car owner has more duration, higher lift "tuned" camshafts?
is it possibve to use the 2.0JTS cams in the 2.0TS head?
Hi! Thanks for amazing video!!! I’m trying to do correct synchronization on my 2.0 twin spark engine after changing timing belt and I really need your help :(
No matter what I do…. exhaust cam is always shows bad on my cam tool. I’m using gauge and locking tool for TDC and I can achieve intake cam synchronization correctly.
What I’m doing wrong? Maybe when I’m rotating engine back to TDC I screw something up?
Btw to rotate engine back and avoid touching crankshaft nut, I’m using auxiliary belt pulley and hands (not sure if I can do this simply with my socket wrench) 😄
I need to also mention, that I get bad timing on exhaust cam when I spin the engine. Until I spin the engine I make everything perfect 🙄
Maybe I’m doing something wrong with the belt tensioner… Because it seems that it can’t stand in place sometimes…
@LyTaS2796 hello. Can you adjust the exhaust sprocket?
@@alfaromeonoproblem Yes. I do everything as you show in your video. I rotate the engine clockwise till my cam tool sits correctly on exhaust cam. Then I loosen exhaust sprocket and rotate engine with auxiliary belt pulley by hand back till I get TDC. Then I tighten the exhaust sprocket. After that I remove everything and try to rotate my engine clockwise once and I always get my exhaust cam off from timing tool by roughly 1 mm to the left... :(
@LyTaS2796 ok. Normally that happens because the sprocket is not all the way to the right when the belt is being installed
My GTV 2.0 TS from 1996 Has a misfire at around 1300 rpm when cold, but good idle. But when warm it has misfire at 1300 rpm and 3000 rpm plus idle that goes up and down between around 800 to 900 rpm, it goes up and down at idle at a steady pace
Hello. Check out the coils and the leads too. They used root off. The coil crack too
@@alfaromeonoproblem The things i have tried so far: new timing belt and variator, took off the head and replaced burnt exhaust valve, replaced all the sensors, tried all the leads and so on from a working alfa gtv, checked exhaust for leaks. Cleaned throttle body, and even tried a second one. Tested for vacuum leaks with smoke, BUT i forgot to replace the crankshaft position sensor, so when i finally did replace it, it ran much much better, but then it started to run bad again. So i bought a second sensor and replaced it again, but this time it made no difference. Help me doctor! :)
@Detailing_And_Rust_Repair check for fuel pressure
Great video
Thanks for watching
Excelente vídeo, parabéns! Espero que o youtube pague bem pelas visualizações, porque nos carregam anuncios a dar com pau! :)
Olá. Paga uma pequeníssima parte, sim. Obrigado por ver o vídeo
Um resumo do vídeo para o meu 156, estou f0dido 😅
Olá. Tenho em português se precisar
@alfaromeonoproblem preciso é das ferramentas para isto ficar tudo em condições. Começo a perceber porque é que a Alfa Romeo é tão amada e odiada
@l3cas é uma questão de hábito, depois é fácil
Hello Bruno do you work on side or part time for your self let me no I am near by the NATO airport .
Hello. Are you on BA5 Monte Real?
I'm just close by.
I'm full time UA-cam/self employed
My car alfa romeo 147 1.6 twinspark 16 valf
This video is identical for you.
I think you are over complicating it. I skimmed the head and changed all belts - really easy on this engine. It was my first engine too. Use the 145 manual and you can't go wrong. My engine has done 150k miles and no timing issues. Don't understand why you keep talking about snapping belts. Stop it!
I did not said anything about snapping belts. The factory did.
And the purpose of this video is not only how to replace it, but also how to avoid miss fires and poor performance.
The procedure on this video is the same that is on elearn