Love watching you fellows that know what you are doing. I am a farmer and I have a mill that that I use to repair old tractors and your indicating the 4 jaw was just what I needed. I need to make a small spur gear with my with my dividing head and it has a 4 jaw on it. I bet you saved me a lot of tail chasing, Thanks.
Good plan - remaking all from scratch is fun to watch. But after all that work it wouldn't make things appreciably better. Keep it up - always enjoy your stuff.
awesome , ive been wanting to rebuild my tailstock for months.. too busy and since its all metric and pot metal , it will be a lot of work.. Nice work, gave me some good insight.
I had problems with the tailstock on my 10L not holding. A cleanup with a borrowed MT2 reamer fixed it very nicely. Inking it before vs after showed maybe 25% contact, now its around 90% contact. Stuff doesn't spin anymore.
Just being lazy and not wanting to change the chucks. THe Acme rot has a nice flat on the top of the threads so it won't get damaged like a sharp v thread
just a quick question. who makes your tool holder. I need one for my little 9" and yours looks great. I have a piston type shars AXA that I was thinking of putting on it . what do you think.
Drill bit is leading. One flute is either longer than the other or dull. The chips coming off are not equal from both flutes. Tends to either make your hole larger than you want or pull it off center.
Good job, but still is it a repair or a patch, only reason I say that is would it have been better to machine a new quil to suit the worn bore of the tail stock it’s only a couple more operation and it would be mint. I’m not trying to be a smart ass I’m interested in your reasoning. Thanks
It's a lot more work to replace the entire quill for not much more gain. You'd have to recut an accurate and 100% centered Morse taper hole. Also the actual tailstock barrel bore won't be worn evenly so the hole would be somewhat rounded so the only way to get a really good fit would be to line bore the tailstock round on some sort of fixture.
Love watching you fellows that know what you are doing. I am a farmer and I have a mill that that I use to repair old tractors and your indicating the 4 jaw was just what I needed. I need to make a small spur gear with my with my dividing head and it has a 4 jaw on it. I bet you saved me a lot of tail chasing, Thanks.
Great job, Greg! It good to see the old girl back in service. Thanks for a great series!
Have a good one!
Dave
Good plan - remaking all from scratch is fun to watch. But after all that work it wouldn't make things appreciably better. Keep it up - always enjoy your stuff.
Nice Job. Can't wait to see the first project you turn on this little baby.
awesome , ive been wanting to rebuild my tailstock for months.. too busy and since its all metric and pot metal , it will be a lot of work.. Nice work, gave me some good insight.
I enjoy watching you work .......... you seem very knowledgeable and quite good at what you do. Keep up the great work and videos
You can drill the split line and put in set screws if you want more holding power.
I had problems with the tailstock on my 10L not holding. A cleanup with a borrowed MT2 reamer fixed it very nicely. Inking it before vs after showed maybe 25% contact, now its around 90% contact. Stuff doesn't spin anymore.
Nice! Got a little Abom heavy metal cutting going on.......like it!
Ahh, Super enjoyed man .. I'm going to dig yur channel for more !! Thanks .. Thumbs up..
Coming along nice man!
Thanks!
Looks like rewarding work.
great work.
Hi Greg
I thought you had a collet chuck for your lathe
Much better than damaging those threads in your 4 jaw chuck
Eddie South Wales in the UK
Just being lazy and not wanting to change the chucks. THe Acme rot has a nice flat on the top of the threads so it won't get damaged like a sharp v thread
just a quick question. who makes your tool holder. I need one for my little 9" and yours looks great. I have a piston type shars AXA that I was thinking of putting on it . what do you think.
AXA is the perfect size. the holder is from A.R.Warner, for ccmt inserts, but you can get a similar ones anywhere
Please make a detailed video from the setup Process of the lathe
Thanks for the video. I will be doing a similar repair to my tailstock soon. Just curious why you chose a cast iron acme nut instead of a bronze nut.
Price mostly
Hi Greg, very nice job indeed! As an aside, the paintwork on your 9"seems to be holding up well - what "type" of paint is it and did you brush it on?
Sherwin williams all surface enamel applied by brush and cabinet roller
Nice work !
Very cool stuff
Greg- Have a MT2 reamer set. If you'd like to borrow it I'm local to you.
Why not turn the insert all at once using the threaded rod as an arbor?
The threads have clearance in them and it will wobble. You'd need an acme nit to hold it down also.
great video Greg. at 26:49 you said something about your drill, I didn't understand what you said or what you mean.
Drill bit is leading. One flute is either longer than the other or dull. The chips coming off are not equal from both flutes. Tends to either make your hole larger than you want or pull it off center.
oh, ic ic
Nice job,
What square insert were you using for you chamfer?
CNMG turned on its side
Is the acme rod left hand?
Loctite on the screw? Why not a pin?
Loctite is easier and plenty strong for what its doing.
What happened to the proton pack project?
Other things have taken precedence
Dude,
what's up with the bandaids?????
Covering a burn
;) could'da used electrical tape... love what you're doing so far... my 1918 12" Simplex Engine Lathe is stuck in the doldrums...
Good job, but still is it a repair or a patch, only reason I say that is would it have been better to machine a new quil to suit the worn bore of the tail stock it’s only a couple more operation and it would be mint. I’m not trying to be a smart ass I’m interested in your reasoning. Thanks
It's a lot more work to replace the entire quill for not much more gain. You'd have to recut an accurate and 100% centered Morse taper hole. Also the actual tailstock barrel bore won't be worn evenly so the hole would be somewhat rounded so the only way to get a really good fit would be to line bore the tailstock round on some sort of fixture.
LOCTITE 638 is better than red locktite