Aluminum push rods go on intake side. The discoloration on the rocker arms is caused by heat .the brown or bronze color is from the exhaust side being much hotter than the intake side
So I would assume that an aluminum push rod could be used on Exh side because it dissipates heat quicker than steel. Probably isn't used often because of cost. The rocker arm (exh) might be heat hardened and thats why its discolored if it wasn't heat hardened it might contract and expand at a different rate than the intake side and warp more easily causing (exh) valve to be slightly out of adjustment and harder starting. This is especially important with that larger engine not having a compression release cam. Just my guess
Pretty sure you put the head gasket on upside down. Instructions that came with mine said numbers up. Great video. I appreciate the time you put into putting this together.
I only watched the first few minutes but like the machinist said it won't matter the first ring is still lower. The customer saved money and probably gained a little hp
Thank you for showing the sump pump cover tip ( at 25:32) of turning the crankshaft a little ! I couldn't get my engine cover to go down all the way & now i know why! Thanks again!!!
And so much guessing and being unsure about things. Worm gear? Nope. And I see a ratchet fits in there nice with the socket just after torqueing the rods, when the socket would most likely still be on the torque wrench if he used it.
That plate where the oil pressure switch attached, my AYP only had ONE cap screw (out of the possible four) holding it in place. I know that bc the plate lacked any score marks that a fastner would have left. This beast had 534 hours on it and I (the third owner) was the lucky one it decided to "let go" on!
How many times did he say “i don’t know and I don’t care”. I think I even heard an “it’s not my money”. Prussian blue all over the seats and he says “I don’t know if they did anything to these heads, but this is is really good. Builds race car engines”. If you know this guy and you take anything to him to be repaired, you deserve what you get…..
just wondering i have a kohler ecv 940 efi engine iam going to change the lifters do i need to take the heads off or just remove the push rods and reach in there and get them out i got a lifter removal tool just wondering what i should plan for here
For $1100 I'd get another nice used working mower with money left over 😂 and for $900 he got a "new" engine that has a head job and more displacement. Win for him
Just an fyi. The proper procedure for installing the rocker arms is WITHOUT the push rods in. You first bleed down the hydraulic lifters in a vise a little at a time, install lifters, rocker arms (torque), then pry up the rocker arm (you can use an open end wrench) getting the push rod end under the rocker. If you don't do it this way, you will be applying torque to the rocker bolt and the hydraulic lifter causing insufficient torque to the bolt. I hope this makes sense.
I'm going through installing rocker and pushrods right now. Should you be at TDC when torque is applied to the bolt, before seating the pushrods into the rocker with the help of the spanner wrench? I can't find any info on this the manual does not address it one way or another. In the manual it then says to check for clearance at full lift, which is .010 inches when it's at TDC. But this seems to negate the torque spec on the bolt?
Good Evening!, I have a Kohler Command ch18 I just pulled out of a small skid steer, it was leaking oil and wasn't charging, after pulling the cover I noticed the flywheel was loose, took the flywheel off to find a big mess, the crank has play in it, so much it destroyed my magnets and stater, obviously the oil is leaking from the seal. Im guessing before I go any farther is there a bushing in the block or is the block Junk??. Thanks for your time ..
I am having difficulty with rocker and rod installation. In the manual, it says to torque the bolt, then use a spanner wrench to seat the pushrods into the rockers. Then check for a clearance on the valve springs and rockers at full lift, .010 inches. But this negates the torque setting of the bolt.
Great video. I'm repairing a Kohler CH25S engine. I have no assembly manual. I would like to know the tightening torque in Nm for the cylinder head bolts. These are 4 M 10 screws. If you can advise. Thank you.
kohler.com actually has a torque spec Menu in one of their drop down menus I found a while back . You might have to know the model number for the engine. However just plug in any engine they should all be relative to same
@@JLafix The engine is powered by a Vermeer wood chipper. It has a hydraulic valve clearance. I have no documentation at all. The engine has a damaged power / speed regulator and deformed cylinder heads. There was a leakage of fuel mixture and flue gas. The correct tightening torque is therefore required
I followed your video and steps to a tee thank you! However now that I have got it back in, the starter won’t turn it. Starter works just fine and was tested. I can use a torque wrench to turn the motor full turns so it’s free. Any ideas? Thank you!
Most likely culprit is the valves need and adjustment. Get engine to top dead center on the exhaust stroke and set your valves to .004 inch on both intake and exhaust valves. A good test for knowing if it's your valves are out of adjustment and eliminating the starter or battery as the problem is to pull out the spark plugs then crank it over, it should operate fine. Then you know it's the valves needing a tweak
@@JLafix thank you! This is my first time so I learned a lot from your videos and am still learning. Bear with me but If the valves are to tight would that make the engine more difficult to manually turn with a torque wrench? Thank you for all your help!
@@lukeparker1638 no need for any special oil or break In period. The engine was most likely put together with assembly lube on the bearings ,cam, and lifters, but if you're worried just run it a few times and change the oil, they only take a quart or two. It's cheap and easy to to
never used aluminum push rods on command engines rockers are the same, discoloration must come from exhaust valve worked Kohler assembly lines for over 20 years
Hello I have a CH20S engine in my John Deere F620 machine front mount mower. It’s a 20 HP horizontal Kohler, but says John Deere on it 😳 Today the rear seal PTO (the engine has a drive shaft take off on front of engine in a F620) popped off. And dumped almost all of the oil in crankcase, luckily I caught it is about 15 seconds - happed to be looking back to see how close I mowed to Solar LED lawn light and saw seal and dump/trail of oil in grass for ~5 feet. So I got a new seal at JD dealer and the service manager told me to press seal home to bottom? I found a UA-cam that said to be sure to not block drain, but in video he says the hole has a relief , pretty sure mine has that - put it together, filled oil, and it dumped out within minutes, seal is in place, can’t figure how that much could have slipped past new seal - just yesterday I replaced hoses to oil cooler and it and hoses and cooler are intact and no sign of leakage, question I have is can a bad head gasket dump oil to outside of engine?? Oil seems to be leaking on aide away from oil filter /oil cooler side. I love machine and it has worked perfect for me for three years now , Value thoughts and suggestions of what next steps and what to check, It does not seem terrible to take engine out and get covers, etc, off to clean up/degrease. How big a job is head gasket replacement? If I go that far, should I do. Complete rebuild? Or do what he suggests, long block?. Thank you
It wont make a difference as long as it's not a high spot. If it's a score that he couldnt machine out, it's no problem. If he charged you more than 300 to bore that out you got ripped off.
I sooner spend $900 to rebuild my ch 730 s, then to buy a new one and hope I'm not getting a piece of shi#, seems like the newer they are the worse they are
@@JLafix can to much oil in the engine cause this as well also my stump grinder has direct drive from the engine can a clutch drum be fitted to this as you turn the chippimg whhel its compresing the engine
How much a man expected to pay on a rebuild with this mower? I’ve got one with the same engine but carbureted and 3 EFI’s. They all getting close to 2000 hours
Don't know market's vary of course and since the pandemic everything seems to have skyrocket with prices and labor that's if you find someone to do it. If you're doing your self I think it would be easier and most likely cheaper to buy a refurbished long block. Maybe 5 years ago that would cost @$1200. Already assembled ready to roll.
Excellent video with all the details I need for my rebuild. Thank you..
Aluminum push rods go on intake side.
The discoloration on the rocker arms is caused by heat .the brown or bronze color is from the exhaust side being much hotter than the intake side
This was awesome. The service manual was not clear on many things and this video makes it very clear.
Watched it all! Good stuff. Looking forward to last part.
So I would assume that an aluminum push rod could be used on Exh side because it dissipates heat quicker than steel. Probably isn't used often because of cost. The rocker arm (exh) might be heat hardened and thats why its discolored if it wasn't heat hardened it might contract and expand at a different rate than the intake side and warp more easily causing (exh) valve to be slightly out of adjustment and harder starting. This is especially important with that larger engine not having a compression release cam. Just my guess
Pretty sure you put the head gasket on upside down. Instructions that came with mine said numbers up. Great video. I appreciate the time you put into putting this together.
I only watched the first few minutes but like the machinist said it won't matter the first ring is still lower. The customer saved money and probably gained a little hp
Thank you for showing the sump pump cover tip ( at 25:32) of turning the crankshaft a little ! I couldn't get my engine cover to go down all the way & now i know why! Thanks again!!!
When putting rod caps on, push the piston to bottom, rotate the crank and put caps on from the bottom
Great video
Too much babble and its your place to clean the breather..The machine shop was paid to bore the block
And so much guessing and being unsure about things. Worm gear? Nope. And I see a ratchet fits in there nice with the socket just after torqueing the rods, when the socket would most likely still be on the torque wrench if he used it.
Green locktite work great for gluing magnets to flywheel
For Head Gasket ,Part Number Up says In direction Sheet.
I like your turntable.
thank you. It is a repurposed TV stand carousel
There is a tool called a ridge reamer to remove that lip.
The color of the rocker arms are more likely a heat treat for the exhaust due to the heat. Or matieral different for the same reason.
That plate where the oil pressure switch attached, my AYP only had ONE cap screw (out of the possible four) holding it in place. I know that bc the plate lacked any score marks that a fastner would have left. This beast had 534 hours on it and I (the third owner) was the lucky one it decided to "let go" on!
Hate to say it but this guy is NOT a great mechanic for small engines..
why? Can you explain.
How many times did he say “i don’t know and I don’t care”. I think I even heard an “it’s not my money”. Prussian blue all over the seats and he says “I don’t know if they did anything to these heads, but this is is really good. Builds race car engines”.
If you know this guy and you take anything to him to be repaired, you deserve what you get…..
Aluminum dissipates heat quicker than steel , dark rocker arm is heat treated, hence exhaust
rocker arms are the same at the factory
just wondering i have a kohler ecv 940 efi engine iam going to change the lifters do i need to take the heads off or just remove the push rods and reach in there and get them out i got a lifter removal tool just wondering what i should plan for here
if the cylinder discrepancy you speak of does not touch the first ring you are fine.
For $1100 I'd get another nice used working mower with money left over 😂 and for $900 he got a "new" engine that has a head job and more displacement. Win for him
that same engine now is $2800.00 and there is a wate of almost 6 months
Just an fyi. The proper procedure for installing the rocker arms is WITHOUT the push rods in. You first bleed down the hydraulic lifters in a vise a little at a time, install lifters, rocker arms (torque), then pry up the rocker arm (you can use an open end wrench) getting the push rod end under the rocker. If you don't do it this way, you will be applying torque to the rocker bolt and the hydraulic lifter causing insufficient torque to the bolt.
I hope this makes sense.
I'm going through installing rocker and pushrods right now. Should you be at TDC when torque is applied to the bolt, before seating the pushrods into the rocker with the help of the spanner wrench? I can't find any info on this the manual does not address it one way or another.
In the manual it then says to check for clearance at full lift, which is .010 inches when it's at TDC. But this seems to negate the torque spec on the bolt?
Best place to buy Kohler long blocks ?
Cue Inigo Montoya voice, "I don't think criss-cross means what you think it does"
Good Evening!, I have a Kohler Command ch18 I just pulled out of a small skid steer, it was leaking oil and wasn't charging, after pulling the cover I noticed the flywheel was loose, took the flywheel off to find a big mess, the crank has play in it, so much it destroyed my magnets and stater, obviously the oil is leaking from the seal. Im guessing before I go any farther is there a bushing in the block or is the block Junk??.
Thanks for your time ..
Shouldn't you oil the cylinder before installing the piston? Prevents scratching the cylinder wall.
I am having difficulty with rocker and rod installation. In the manual, it says to torque the bolt, then use a spanner wrench to seat the pushrods into the rockers. Then check for a clearance on the valve springs and rockers at full lift, .010 inches. But this negates the torque setting of the bolt.
It says in the instructions to put Part Number UP....
Great video. I'm repairing a Kohler CH25S engine. I have no assembly manual. I would like to know the tightening torque in Nm for the cylinder head bolts. These are 4 M 10 screws. If you can advise. Thank you.
kohler.com actually has a torque spec Menu in one of their drop down menus I found a while back . You might have to know the model number for the engine. However just plug in any engine they should all be relative to same
@@JLafix The engine is powered by a Vermeer wood chipper. It has a hydraulic valve clearance. I have no documentation at all. The engine has a damaged power / speed regulator and deformed cylinder heads. There was a leakage of fuel mixture and flue gas. The correct tightening torque is therefore required
I would not use that engine builder dude anymore.
I followed your video and steps to a tee thank you! However now that I have got it back in, the starter won’t turn it. Starter works just fine and was tested. I can use a torque wrench to turn the motor full turns so it’s free. Any ideas? Thank you!
Most likely culprit is the valves need and adjustment. Get engine to top dead center on the exhaust stroke and set your valves to .004 inch on both intake and exhaust valves. A good test for knowing if it's your valves are out of adjustment and eliminating the starter or battery as the problem is to pull out the spark plugs then crank it over, it should operate fine. Then you know it's the valves needing a tweak
@@JLafix thank you! This is my first time so I learned a lot from your videos and am still learning. Bear with me but If the valves are to tight would that make the engine more difficult to manually turn with a torque wrench? Thank you for all your help!
What you said worked thank you! Now what oil did you use to break in the motor. And could you give the break in process you went through?
@@lukeparker1638 no need for any special oil or break In period. The engine was most likely put together with assembly lube on the bearings ,cam, and lifters, but if you're worried just run it a few times and change the oil, they only take a quart or two. It's cheap and easy to to
@@JLafix No valve clearance setting on this Kohler. Just a specified torque is required with hydraulic lifters.
Do you know the crankshaft end play specs
Head gasket Wrong way with the numbers up
dissipates heat faster is my guess
Why do you complain so much
I'm from New England that's just what we do
never used aluminum push rods on command engines rockers are the same, discoloration must come from exhaust valve worked Kohler assembly lines for over 20 years
Hello I have a CH20S engine in my John Deere F620 machine front mount mower. It’s a 20 HP horizontal Kohler, but says John Deere on it 😳
Today the rear seal PTO (the engine has a drive shaft take off on front of engine in a F620) popped off. And dumped almost all of the oil in crankcase, luckily I caught it is about 15 seconds - happed to be looking back to see how close I mowed to Solar LED lawn light and saw seal and dump/trail of oil in grass for ~5 feet.
So I got a new seal at JD dealer and the service manager told me to press seal home to bottom? I found a UA-cam that said to be sure to not block drain, but in video he says the hole has a relief , pretty sure mine has that - put it together, filled oil, and it dumped out within minutes, seal is in place, can’t figure how that much could have slipped past new seal - just yesterday I replaced hoses to oil cooler and it and hoses and cooler are intact and no sign of leakage, question I have is can a bad head gasket dump oil to outside of engine??
Oil seems to be leaking on aide away from oil filter /oil cooler side.
I love machine and it has worked perfect for me for three years now ,
Value thoughts and suggestions of what next steps and what to check,
It does not seem terrible to take engine out and get covers, etc, off to clean up/degrease.
How big a job is head gasket replacement?
If I go that far, should I do. Complete rebuild? Or do what he suggests, long block?.
Thank you
It wont make a difference as long as it's not a high spot. If it's a score that he couldnt machine out, it's no problem. If he charged you more than 300 to bore that out you got ripped off.
It ain’t the space shuttle...
Who's machine shop was it the one you use or one the customer uses if it's yours then your responsible for the work
Customer...the machine never had problems since back together
I sooner spend $900 to rebuild my ch 730 s, then to buy a new one and hope I'm not getting a piece of shi#, seems like the newer they are the worse they are
MY KHOLER ENGINE 25HP PLUGS GETING OILY OIL IS SLITEY LEAKING ON TO THE FINNS WOT COULD THIS BE RINGS OR HEAD GASKETTS
Most likely the head gasket
@@JLafix can to much oil in the engine cause this as well also my stump grinder has direct drive from the engine can a clutch drum be fitted to this as you turn the chippimg whhel its compresing the engine
How much a man expected to pay on a rebuild with this mower? I’ve got one with the same engine but carbureted and 3 EFI’s. They all getting close to 2000 hours
Don't know market's vary of course and since the pandemic everything seems to have skyrocket with prices and labor that's if you find someone to do it. If you're doing your self I think it would be easier and most likely cheaper to buy a refurbished long block. Maybe 5 years ago that would cost @$1200. Already assembled ready to roll.
@@JLafix it looks a little out of my league for sure. The ones I’ve found are about $1850 and up now.
You talk to much! Just focus on doing the video guey!
Lol he does talk to much and complain too much about silly things, get the job going with your hands not with your mouth 🤪
Why be so erigant about the build the guy isn't a pro u are