How To Diagnose & Repair Kohler 7000 Engine That Bogs Down, Has Loss Of Power Or No Power Under Load
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- Опубліковано 9 кві 2024
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We diagnose and repair a no power issue on this Bad Boy zero turn mower with Kohler KT745-3013.
It was brought in and customer said he mowed about half of the yard then it started bogging down and losing power.
We do a full diagnostic on it and end up finding bad ignition coils.
We go through the full process to find out if this is your issue and testing process to get there.
Sometimes if the spark cutting out is more consistent you can get an in-line spark tester to pick up the loss of spark.
We go through the full process to figure out what is wrong if it seems like you engine is at half power, it probably is for one reason or another
We like to go through the entire thing to make sure there are no issues.
We end up replacing the ignition coils and getting it back running full power.
You can purchase an ignition coil part number 32 584 25-S at amzn.to/3VRauFq
You can purchase a wiring harness part number 32 176 51-S at amzn.to/3vB60by
Spark plug Briggs & Stratton 491055 Can be purchase d at amzn.to/3xDG7bn
Air Filter part number 16 883 04-S1 can be purchased at amzn.to/43Qqt8N
This is a Kohler v twin KT745-3013 7000 series engine. This will be the same diagnostics on may Kohler KT series engines such as the KT735 and KT740
Spark Check'r Model SPC-7200
OTC Leakdown tester can be purchased at amzn.to/3Jbwljg
Lisle compression tester can be purchased at amzn.to/3VThbH7
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#badboymowers #kohler #smallenginerepair #individualizedrepair #smallbusiness #diymaintenance
About Us:
My name is Martin. I have been repairing tools and small engines for almost 20 years. We operate a small engine repair shop in Illinois. We service / repair Briggs & Stratton, Kohler, Kawasaki, John Deere, Cub Cadet, Toro Tecumseh, Loncin, Honda, Craftsman, Husqvarna, MTD, Troy Bilt, Simplicity, John Deere, Exmark, LCT, Generac and many more brands. We work on riding mowers, walk behind mowers, snow blowers, zero turns, generators, pressure washers and much more. We normally repair about 3,000 pieces of equipment every year and look at many more that are beyond an affordable repair. Hopefully our videos will save you some money and give you the information you need to work on your own equipment or figure out the issue at hand.
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Please be careful when repairing any piece of equipment and follow all possible safety measures. This video is for entertainment purposes only. - Навчання та стиль
❤❤❤❤😊😊😊😊 I love the way you explained. Thank you for walking through the troubleshooting/analysis process. Some information I already knew, but some new information I indeed learned today. I enjoyed my good morning coffee while watching your excellent educational video. I hope that you make more videos as you repair more issues on BadBoy Kohler engines. Much appreciate.
I appreciate your words or support! Thanks for watching!
I love how folks love telling this man what to do and what not to do. You can clearly see this guy is a ⚙️ head.
Everyone has their ways I suppose. Thanks for watching!
You just picked up a new subscriber with this video !!
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
Another good one guy. I learned a little more today thanks to you.
Thanks for watching! I appreciate that
I like listening to your videos. Great work at real speed.
I appreciate that!
Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge . A good informative, and educational video. 😊
I appreciate that!
awesome video!!! thank you!
I appreciate that! Thanks for watching!
Hey, Martin! I’m probably too fussy, but I always clean off the ground contact areas and apply dielectric grease to all contacts including the kill wire spade connector and high tension lead boot. I also use threadlocker on the screws because they have a tendency to back out because I don’t want to over-torque them. Just my little extra insurance to avoid a comeback and help the magneto do its job.
Yeah, fussy never hurts! I would avoid locktite on screws for the coil because I have seen too many break off. I have never seen any back out. Cleaning ground post some people do but the entire coil to block is held by the screws that also ground it. Overkill in my opinion, but it will not hurt anything
Nice video.
Thanks for watching!
I like the Lisle adjustable spark tester. I used twice on my mowers I’ve found it a good way to find coils that get weaker as engine runs and heat builds up. With rubber gloves on you can adjust the width while engine is running and accelerate the diagnostic of a weak coil. Sometimes you can cause the symptoms off the bat. Works easier with lights off in room, you can watch color and how far you can adjust it out before you loose spark.
Wow! That's a definitive diagnostic technique I haven't run across yet. One of those adjustable ones has been on my shopping list for at least a couple years. I've had my eye on the one from Echo (PET4000EC) from the beginning because it has calibration on the screw so you can really know exactly where you're at. The price has been coming down over the past couple years, too! The one Martin uses seems really great and very fast and easy to use, but I like to be as precise as possible, and I really like the concept of analyzing while the engine is running.
Do you happen to recall where you learned that diagnostic technique?
C & L Lawn Care UA-camr did a video on tool. He has some good videos like Martin in format. You have to be careful spark goes to easiest ground and that can be you while adjusting if not careful.
Definitely works well for finding those hard to diagnose failing or intermittent ignition coils. Thanks for sharing!
They definitely are not as accurate as an adjustable but very quick and very rarely give a bad reading. I have seen it shut off when trying to read spark in a few situations
I love getting "gracefully" reminded I am alive every now and again
I've got bad boy pro I love it
Good machine!
I have a 2016 Kohler 7000 on my mower and have just replaced the coils for the second time. The part number has changed so I hope the new one will last a longer time.
Definitely! How long did you get out of the first set?
@@IndRepair I don't remember exactly but 3 or 4 years. Living in Texas with the heat may have something to do with them going bad.
Definitely
@@tomm2147 Definitely could be a contributing factor. Here in Illinois I don't see them fail often
I use a temp gun, fast and reliable 😊
Definitely! Broke my last one not got another one yet. Need one soon for my upcoming bearing video
I like the Bad Boy mowers, but I am surprised they are using those Kohler engines. Kohler has had issues in the past several years. Wish they would use Kawasaki engines, I have no issues with the Kawasaki's. Thanks for a great video.
I have seen this coil issue for quite a few years. I love the Kawasaki's! Thanks for watching
I've seen other makes, Briggs, Predator, and knock off Hondas have problems with ignition coils. Many will work just fine when cold, then either lose power when at or close to operating temperature stop working altogether. Kohler may have more problems than others . Don't know. One thing that mouse nest could have caused the coil to over heat a few times causing it fail, or on its way to fail. Just a guess on my part. Have a wonderful day
The Kawasaki engine missing was the ONLY reason I didn't buy a badboy mower. It's kind of like Toyota putting a BMW engine in the new Supra..... no thanks.
The newer larger ones all have Kohler EFI or a diesel engine. Smaller ones some still come with a Briggs Intek 19HP or a Kohler 7000 25HP. They do offer a Kawasaki 22HP FR651 also depending on the build
I'm having the exact same issue with a Kohler 7000 series Cub Cadet. Mainly starts when engaging blades. been frustrating. But pulling kill switch plugs from coils made no difference. Appreciate the vid
Did that lead you to the same diagnosis as we had here with bad or intermittent ignition coils?
@@IndRepair it did. It's not pulling air, good fuel flow, got spark. I pulled kill switch wire, no change. They're original and 400 hours on the machine. May as well
@smokinwraith1512 bet it will solve the issue
@@IndRepair great video. KISS method works the best. Especially for diagnosis, Keep It Simple Stupid. Great advice, hurts feelings every time. Lol
@@smokinwraith1512 Lol for sure
Some of those kohler 7000 engines had a problem with the casting on the head on the fuel pump side it was partially blocked causing fuel delivery problems due to weak pulse at the pump once you clean up the return hole with a long drill bit it worked fine there was a service bulletin regarding this
I have seen the bulletin but never experienced the issue. If the fuel pulse would have seen low flow we would have went towards fuel supply/line/filter issues
@@IndRepair Martin, I've searched for a definitive answer to a related question for quite a while and never really came up with a satisfactory answer - how can you tell what's adequate flow versus what's a weak flow? I can watch fuel exiting the pump but don't really know if what I'm seeing is normal. On the one lawn tractor so far which seemed to indicate a fuel supply issue I had what I would have thought was a somewhat weak flow, but months later when I finally diagnosed the reason for difficult starting it turned out to be a failed starter. That's how I figured out, at least for this Tecumseh V-twin, that this flow was totally satisfactory.
Through process of deduction I surmised that a specific crank rotation speed (or spark generation speed or both) must be necessary to generate enough compression (or sparks in rapid succession) to fire the engine. This was after multiple key-on's with crank hesitation and no real rotational speed (and a strong battery and good electrical connection through the entire ignition system). The engine would eventually fire but it took several key-on's to accomplish. One I tested the starter and replaced it with one from my "parts yard" starters that solved the issue immediately. Yay! :) (I've super-glued the one fallen off magnet back into the housing and ordered an end cap brush replacement kit to replace the brushes which were either frozen in the retracted position or cracked/demolished.) Now I know what's inside a starter and how to repair it myself for not a lot of money! ;-)
For starting purposes, long as the carburetor is getting fuel it should start. A fuel flow issue will present in the form of dying out after starting, almost always. Visually it should "shoot" out of the exit with good force. It is hard to tell visually. Here you can see it slows down on the first one and that would be an "inadequate" flow. It is a hard one to diagnose because they also hold fuel pressure (no decrease) so testing output does not help
Had replace my key way.😊
Interesting
Nice work Kansas bad Boyslolololo
Lol!
I have a question about the spark check'r. I have one. I recently installed Nova II modules on a K161 and a K181. Both run perfect with the modules, but the spark check'r shows high on both engines. They run so well, Im not that concerned, but should I be?
Do you have the switch on the side set to mower? I very rarely see the spark check'r wrong but they have given me weird readings a few times
I have that same motor and the same problem, I cut the flame a few times on the fourth, the motor worked but every time I turn on the blades the motor loses power
Definitely sounds like it is not running on one cylinder or there is an issue with the fuel quality
Ok I have a serious question, I was mowing about a week ago and I started mowing within 10 minutes the mower started to surge and hunt, at full throttle, pull throttle back and it runs but sputters, then it started to pop and back fire , when ever I gave it power. I checked the fuel and it's flowing decently. I don't know how to upload a video to share with you what I'm trying to explain. I'm behind on customers right now, I did cut two lawns with it today but under low power and it sputtered, spat seemed to want to shut off, and backfiring all at once. Kohler 7000 on a Cub cadet 54" 123 hours
Sounds like a carburetor or fuel issue possibly. Does it run better with partial choke?
I have a simplicity, Broadmoor 16 hp 40 inch deck when the it’s running the key falls out and stays running. Do you know what it could be? What’s the best gasoline?
Ethanol free fuel is beat. Replace the ignition switch
Why change the wiring harness? Sounded good to me.
I talked to the customer about it and gave him the option. It was nibbled on in a few spots by the mouse. It was not through the insulation fully. but while we are already there spending $40 to make the entire electrical harness new made sense to him
Great talent!
Should you not have the engine shroud on if you run it that long, since the cover diverts air over the cylinders for cooling? A few minutes would be ok, but 30 minutes seems a bit long.
This is not going to be an issue. The flywheel still forces air across the engine to disperse heat while running. It does not do nearly as good of a job without the cover, no. It may be an issue if you are in an extremely hot area but we are running this at zero load. The heat generated is a lot different than having it under a full load. It was about 60 in the shop when this happened (55 or so outside) and we open the doors and use fans to exhaust. Thanks for watching
What rpm do these run?, I have the same engine and with the blades engaged not mowing it runs about 3100rpm, seems low
Definitely a little low. They are usually rated at 3600 rpm. 3450 is a good speed
@IndRepair how do you adjust?, idle is high too, mows great but I thought the rpm was a little low
I almost bought that ignition coil. I went to the badboy website and it states it will not work on my kt740-3048. It will work on the other KT740 models.
Correct, looks like yours takes 32 584 06-S ignition coil amzn.to/3UShrW4
I don’t think it revs up all the way . I would check the throttle linkage. Just a thought. Good job I love watching you work 🙏
You are correct! During testing it was found to be about 300 rpm too low!
Great video. I have a Cub Cadet with this Kohler engine. I believe I heard you say if it bogs down and you chock it and it gets power back it's an air ratio problem? Can you share the fix on that? I've already changed the air filter, fuel filter and oil filter. A buddy of mine cleaned the carburetor and changed the spark plugs and it's still randomly bogging down still. Any help would be appreciated! Thank you.
Likely a carburetor issue, fuel issue or air leak. Could also be loosing a cylinder, I see coil issues with them all the time. Was the carburetor put on OEM or aftermarket? Intake gaskets replaced at the same time?
If you're going to run that motor for 30 min to test it, either put an electric fan or put the shroud on. It needs air on those heads to keep that motor cool.
We have the doors open and fans on when running anything for that long with or without a shroud indoors. Operating this without the shroud still cools the motor, just not as efficiently. Heat under a load for an engine is a lot different than without a load on it. Temp was about 60 inside and 55 outside. No worry there.
Thats weird because majority of repair shops say the Kohler 7000 series engine is the least seen..
I see them quite a bit but I would say less than others brands. I don't think they made nearly as many of these as Briggs did. Google says they come out in 2013 and the Briggs v twin been around since 1998
Zt pro Commercial.
Wow
The only thing I didn't like in this video that you didn't put the cover back on while the engine was running for 30 minutes the cover is designed to direct the air flow across the heads keep the heads from getting too hot
Load temp is going to be different than run temp. The fan still blows air over the top to cool it. Ambient temp was low here, in a location where temp is really hot this could be an issue
@@IndRepair with that cover off it will not allow the air to flow down through the heads the air will just flow out to the sides the cover directions downward without the cover on it goes outward and even at idle speeds it builds up a lot of heat
@@treeguy4009 Air blowing over the top still cools, not as well but it is not under a load either. I mentioned in another comment I always have fans running when mowers are running inside to push exhaust outside. Next one I have off I will put a thermal camera on it and see at a warmer temp if it makes a difference. Thanks for your comment
@@IndRepair look I'm not here to argue with you if it's your own engine it wouldn't make me no difference if you put it on or not it being somebody else's I would put it on you can Google it you can research it it's common sense it was factory designed that way for a reason not for looks it was designed to move The air properly around the engine to keep it cool
@@IndRepair you a good day and be safe out there and keep up the good work look forward to seeing more videos
Was the wiring harness part just a money grab? 😉😂
I know from experience the issues you have if you don't fix things right and completely. Call it whatever you would like lol